I'd sure give it a try. It's probably one of the corner studs on the
pushrod side--the block cracks right on the inside edge of the stud
hole. They ALL crack there. Here's what I'd try: Heat the stud up to
the point that you can turn it--I'd probably start the heating
process by welding a piece of bar stock to the stud near the base to
give a grip. You'll probably have to heat the cast iron as well.
Proceed slowly, get the joint red hot and the brazing should melt
enough for you to turn out the stud.
Step two--get in touch with Greg Solow and get some of his special
ARP corner studs--they have longer threaded sections. Follow his
directions for drilling the hole deeper and tapping it with a
bottoming tap. Once that's done, I'd probably re-tap the hole for a
helicoil that goes all the way to the bottom of the deeper hole. That
will give you good threads all the way that are deeper than stock.
Put in Greg's super studs and Bob's your uncle. This repair should be
BETTER than another block because you'll find the stud holes cracked
in just about any block you buy.
I'd never try to weld a cast iron block. All the guys that know how
to do that are mostly dead. You need a big container of insulating
stuff like Vermiculite and a wizard at welding to even consider the
process. I know one guy in Oakland that can do it, but he lives in a
loft above his shop and is certifiably nuts.
Bill Babcock
billb@bnj.com
www.bnj.com Website for Babcock & Jenkins, a direct and interactive
agency
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On Feb 10, 2007, at 8:30 AM, Tony Drews wrote:
> I would either leave it alone or look for another block. Personally,
> I'd be looking for another block. Holes can be drilled out and
> tapped, and an insert can be threaded and bonded into the larger hole
> to bring it back to the right size (I've had that done before), but
> welding up cast iron is a dicey proposition.
>
> There's nothing worse than retorquing your head after the first heat
> cycle and having one of the head studs strip out. Well, OK, there
> probably ARE worse things, but it's definitely a sinking feeling.
>
> As far as I know, keeping the block "numbers correct" doesn't add
> much value to the TR's (unlike, say, early Corvettes).
>
> - Tony Drews
>
> At 11:11 AM 2/10/2007, Mark Eginton wrote:
>> Has anyone seen an incidence where a early TR3 /4 block had to be
>> thrown out
>> due to problems with the head bolt stud hole. I am really worried
>> about
>> messing with this stud that my dad braised to the block up the
>> early '60s but
>> on the other hand, Murphy dictates the fillet is bound to
>> eventually cause
>> head gasket problems eventually.
>>
>> Seems like at the very least it should be able to be welded up and
>> re-drilled
>> and tapped but it may be naive on my part.
>>
>> This local machine shop is talking about a ceramic insert that is
>> "glued in"
>> but I don't have the nerve to believe him.
>>
>> Thoughts or referrals, I am ready to build but need to get pass
>> this one...
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> 57 TR3 vintage racer
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