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Re: [Fot] Comp Prep Guide

To: Mark Eginton <mee23@cornell.edu>, FOT Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Comp Prep Guide
From: Bill Babcock <billb@bnj.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2007 18:17:42 -1000
Step one--get all of Kas' new books.
Step two--do exactly what he says.

Bill Babcock
billb@bnj.com

www.bnj.com  Website for Babcock & Jenkins, a direct and interactive  
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On Feb 11, 2007, at 3:32 PM, Mark Eginton wrote:

> I pulled out my dad's TR4 Comp Prep Manual and am preparing to  
> follow the
> instructions to the letter. Quick questions:
>
> Are there any changes, modifications or other resources you would  
> suggest
> from this text or is it still current? I want to stay with modified  
> original
> equipment, no webers etc. I will probably go only to 10.5 to 1 to  
> run on pump
> gas and "race" occasionally...
>
> I have a "D" cam from the '60s still in its original wrapping. Is  
> this cam
> still a good choice or has cam design progressed to the point that  
> I should
> consider a later design alternative.
>
> I have 2 heads to work with as the original racing head cracked and  
> was
> trashed years ago. One is an unmolested TR3B head and the second  
> appears to
> be an early TR3 high port head .  I am considering using the older  
> head as it
> has been cut .030 already. Is there a resource to identify how much  
> to remove
> from the original 3.330" thickness to get to 10.5:1.
>
> If I go to 87mm pistons, do I still use a modified 83mm head gasket  
> to make a
> template for grinding the head as described in the text?
>
> Is there any advantage to the later model head other than clearing  
> the water
> pump? Are the port castings the same? I know the milling surface is  
> thicker
> but I don't plan to mill that agressively (am I?). I am thinking I  
> should
> save TR3B head since its unaccosted...
>
> Thanks for everything,
>
> M
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net on behalf of Kas Kastner
> Sent: Sat 2/10/2007 11:50 AM
> To: Group44TR7@aol.com; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] 1972/1973 GT6 Stromberg - Fuel Leak
>
>
>
> Not unusual at all for a stored car to have the needle and seat  
> gummed up
> from
> the stale gas and thus pour fuel out the overflow pipe or opening..  
> A little
> lacquer thinner  and thirty minutes will cure that problem..
>
> Never Be beaten by Equipment
> Kas Kastner
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Group44TR7@aol.com
>   To: fot@autox.team.net
>   Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 6:07 AM
>   Subject: [Fot] 1972/1973 GT6 Stromberg - Fuel Leak
>
>
>   Gentlemen
>
>       Our two GT6s street cars were started late  yesterday after  
> about three
>   to four months in indoor storage.  Unfortunately, both have fuel  
> leaks from
> the
>   factory Stromberg which were  observed only after the engine was  
> turned
> off.
>   In the case of one  GT6s, the Strombergs had been recently rebuilt.
>
>       I have had these particular cars for many years  (one for  
> nearly 20
>   years). This is the first time  that either has had this problem  
> even
> though
> both
>   have been used sparingly  over my ownership. Rather odd  
> coincidence that
> they
>   both developed the same  problem over the last three months or so.
>
>       We have not had time yet to had time  to determine the source  
> of the
>   leaks. I would appreciate any guidance  as to what to look for as  
> to the
> typical
>   underlying cause and permanent solution  (if there is one).
>
>       Thanks in advance for you advice and guidance.
>
>   Cary
>
>   .
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