I forgot to mention a couple of things. Make sure that the fine threads on
the studs are not distorted. Wire brush them clean and then inspect them under
bright light against a white wall. The threads should not tilt upward, but
should be nice and uniform. After 50 years of head gasket replacements the
threads will eventually become distorted and will bent upwards. Any studs like
this should be discarded. Another way to check them is to take two studs and
fit the threads together. Hold them up to the white wall and there should be
no light visible between the threads of the two studs. If the threads of one
stud are distorted, light will be visible. Check the bottom of each nut. feel
the inside of the hole. The threads should not be pulled downwards. When a nut
is machined, there is always a little bevel on the inside of the hole leading
into the first thread. As the nuts are torque again and again, the thread will
pull downwards. If these threads are distorted, discard the nuts. Replacing
the nuts with good Grade 8 "high nuts" is a good idea. A "high nut" is a nut
that is about 1 1/4 times taller than a normal nut of the same size. Curtiss
Industries makes good ones that are heat treated to have a tensil strength of
180,000 psi. Lawson Industries also distributes similar nuts. Of course all
ARP hardware is top notch, but I do not like the look of 12 point head nuts on
a Vintage race car, they just don't look right. I do not believe that ARP make
a hex "high nut" Finally make sure that the nuts will spin on to the studs
easily with your fingers before using them.
Greg Solow
The Engine Room
Morgan & Sports Car Specialists
Santa Cruz, Calif. 95060
831 429-1800
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
|