I have received 20+ replies to my original question and I thank
you all for your time and effort.
Right now, I have gone down with flu - the curse of the English
winter - and it would not be prudent to start working in the
garage. However, when I get back together, I'll answer some of
you direct and maybe copy you all with the digest of your advice
which I will make for my own reference....
Float chamber levels
New aluminium tank with intake too high
Ignition problems...
those are the favourites thus far.
One thing...I don't hear the fuel pump struggling, which it would
wouldn't it - if it was drawing air from the tank??
In fact, couldn't one determine quite a lot from what the pump
does...run fast (or not at all)??
I did take the pump apart. It's stamped "Recon" so I guess it
went back to SU for rebuilding and some PO bought it as an
"Exchange unit". .....it's the latest type, with the condenser
etc. I don't know if it would be a standard fitting to my car. I
suppose so as the mounting setup looks like factory stuff.
Anyhow, it looks like new inside - no pitting on the points. But
I did get some crud out of the intake chamber beneath the filter.
The nylon filter was clear...I don't know how much crud makes a
difference, but I'd hazard that there wasn't enough.
With that, I'll leave you. I anyone else has a brainwave........
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SAINTADUB at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:41:13 EST
Subject: Air / Fuel ratio meter
Hi listers,
In order to tune correctly my BT7 engine equiped with 3 x 45DCOE Weber, I
have bought a Lumenition Air/Fuel meter and I need a lambda sensor.
The advices for the lambda sensor are various and not very well documented.
A correct sensor has to be matched with the actual temperature environnement
where it will work.
The usual location of such sensor is just after where the three branches of
one exhaust manifold are joining.
Is anybody have experience of which sensor to use or it isn't a concern ?
Thanks in advance for any advice,
best regards
Philippe
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 01:21:28 +1100
Subject: Re: Air / Fuel ratio meter
Hi Philippe,
I didn't really read past ------- 3 x 45DCOE Webers
i.e Triple webers...... I have triple 45DCOE Webers - but I don't have a
Lambda sensor - but I do have a very very quick Healey - on the road - and
on the track.......
I have spent many hours (with gurus) tuning my triple webered BJ8 on a Dyno.
Carbs are carbs - even 3 x 45dcoe webers.
Email me off list and tell me your engine specs. My healey has had triple
webers since 1968.
Webers are great - provided you set them up correctly. Most people who have
a problem just haven't set them up correctly. They don't 'go out of tune' -
they only change according to atmosphere.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <SAINTADUB@aol.com
> Hi listers,
> In order to tune correctly my BT7 engine equiped with 3 x 45DCOE Weber, I
> have bought a Lumenition Air/Fuel meter and I need a lambda sensor.
> The advices for the lambda sensor are various and not very well
documented.
> A correct sensor has to be matched with the actual temperature
environnement
> where it will work.
> The usual location of such sensor is just after where the three branches
of
> one exhaust manifold are joining.
> Is anybody have experience of which sensor to use or it isn't a concern ?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 09:48:59 EST
Subject: Re: Toe in and starter solenoid
In a message dated 11/30/2001 9:15:22 PM Mountain Standard Time,
pennell@whro.net writes:
<<
2. In wiring the starter solenoid I tightened the center nut (Ignition
switch?) too much and the stud now moves inside the solenoid. What bad thing
have I done? >>
Sounds likek you broke the head of the stud loose inside the bakelite. These
studs typically have a thin, square head anda the bakelite is cast around
them.
The only remedy I know of is to get a new solenoid.
roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 11:19:19 -0500
Subject: virus
Listers,
My computer Dell 4100 will not open files under Win 98 occasionally.
Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Could this be caused by the recent deadly Byers
virus? :) If so, how do I check for it? How do I eliminate it?
Can anyone out there help me with this? I have a menopausal wife who is
freaking out because she cannot do her work. And as we all know "When mama
ain't happy, nobody's happy!"
Thanks a million
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:32:13 -0800
Subject: Speedometer question
Dear Healey Forum-
I just purchased a NOS Smiths Speedometer to replace the non-functioning
Speedometer in my 1961 AH 3000 BT7. The Speedometer in my car wasn't
working although the Speedometer cable proved to be unkinked and otherwise
fully functioning. I have not measured this cable's length... yet. To
complicate things I am presently running a center shift transmission/OD out
of a '65 3000. Anyway... I am just now learning about the intricacies of
length of cable, Speedos for OD or non-OD, etc... Of course I am learning
this after purchasing a NOS Smiths Speedo that was represented as fitting
100-6 and 3000. Anyway I checked Moss's catalog for reference numbers and
confirmed that the Speedo I purchased (Part# SN6105/08)is appropriate for
the BN4 and BN6 cars with Overdrive. Mine is a BT7 and like I said is
running an overdrive transmission from a '65 3000. Will this speedometer
work with the current 1965 transmission setup I am running? Part two of
this question is will this same speedometer (Part# SN6105/08) work if I
replace my '65 transmission to put back in the original '61 sideshift
transmission that is sitting in my garage? I would be hoping to put the
same OD that is in the car onto this correct '61 transmission when I
ultimately do this swap.
Best Regards,
Matt-
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 12:12:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Speedometer question
Hi Matt,
Any speedo will work with any gearbox, the question is accuracy. The
small 3 or 4 digit number on the face of your speedo indicates the
number of turns of the cable per mile for accurate indication.
If you accurately measure the traveled distance for one turn of the
cable you can easily figure out how many turns per mile the cable makes.
This number will change when you change the differential ratio say like
fitting a 3.54/1 diff, or the tire diameter. This is one reason why
overdrive and non overdrive cars have different speedometers.
I have never checked if the speedo pinion (that is on the back of the
gearbox or overdrive) is the same for overdrive or non overdrive
gearboxes. If it is different that would be the other reason that they
use different speedos.
Changing the gearbox definitely will not have any effect as long as they
are both overdrive boxes or both non overdrive boxes.
Hope that is clear.... I think I understand what I have written, but I
don't know if anyone else will :-<
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 11:32 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Speedometer question
Dear Healey Forum-
I just purchased a NOS Smiths Speedometer to replace the non-functioning
Speedometer in my 1961 AH 3000 BT7. The Speedometer in my car wasn't
working although the Speedometer cable proved to be unkinked and
otherwise
fully functioning. I have not measured this cable's length... yet. To
complicate things I am presently running a center shift transmission/OD
out
of a '65 3000. Anyway... I am just now learning about the intricacies
of
length of cable, Speedos for OD or non-OD, etc... Of course I am
learning
this after purchasing a NOS Smiths Speedo that was represented as
fitting
100-6 and 3000. Anyway I checked Moss's catalog for reference numbers
and
confirmed that the Speedo I purchased (Part# SN6105/08)is appropriate
for
the BN4 and BN6 cars with Overdrive. Mine is a BT7 and like I said is
running an overdrive transmission from a '65 3000. Will this
speedometer
work with the current 1965 transmission setup I am running? Part two of
this question is will this same speedometer (Part# SN6105/08) work if I
replace my '65 transmission to put back in the original '61 sideshift
transmission that is sitting in my garage? I would be hoping to put the
same OD that is in the car onto this correct '61 transmission when I
ultimately do this swap.
Best Regards,
Matt-
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 12:48:18 EST
Subject: Re: virus
pennell@whro.net writes: > Could this be caused by the recent deadly Byers
> virus?
Keith,
I think the Byers Virus simply searches your hard drive for anything
resembling a BJ8 VIN Number and reports any findings back to command central.
No damage is done.
You must have something else.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 13:32:21 -0600
Subject: test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 14:52:50 -0500
Subject: Fw: virus
Heh, heh, heh!
Congratulations, Jim. I thought it would take longer before anyone figured
that out......
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <pennell@whro.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: virus
>
> pennell@whro.net writes: > Could this be caused by the recent deadly Byers
> > virus?
>
> Keith,
>
> I think the Byers Virus simply searches your hard drive for anything
> resembling a BJ8 VIN Number and reports any findings back to command
central.
> No damage is done.
>
> You must have something else.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 15:14:25 -0500
Subject: Knot phloat
File this under I should have known better. My BT7 may not be the best
looking Healey but I take pride in the way it runs and keeps on running
against any other local Healey. The last two times I took the car out it
started to sputter I tuned it up, points condenser, rotor,plugs. Tuned
the SU fuel pump. Then a coil, why not? Still I got the sputter. Sooooo
I took off the fwd SU it was not dirty, while I had the fuel line off I
tried to get the rear float out but it was not to be.
So my boat is hauled the gutters are clean then leaves are raked it's 72
degrees on the first of December.. I roll out the Healey and dig into
the rear SU, bingo! the float would not come out because it was 3/4 full
of gas. Put in a spare and I am off to the Positive Earth Sports Car
Club Xmas dinner tonight.
Jim Dalglish
1960BT7-2167
Manasquan, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Perk Hazlegrove" <perk1 at rbnet.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:31:07 -0500
Subject: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
The balancer on the BJ8 has delaminated and fallen of the front of the crank
pully. This happened whilst driving. It fell forward against the front cross
member and laid there, just ajar enough to get into the fan. I was able to
pry the thing back onto its hub, and limped home. I have pulled the radiator
and have access to it and am now considering my options. I cannot remove the
outer ring due to the close clearance with the cross member. I could pry the
thing back onto its hub, as the rubber seems to be OK, but how long would it
stay. I notice that there are two holes drilled in the ring that look like
they are for balancing purposes. Were they all drilled the same, or was each
engine custom balanced - ie: where would these holes line up if I could repair
this thing. I have seen a replacement advertised for over $300. Would it
match the balance of my car or would I have to have a machine shop fit and
balance the thing? I don't race the car or run it up very much, what if I
just cut the outer ring off? Anybody have any thoughts?
Perk Hazlegrove
1966 BJ8 34808
Roanoke, Va. - Still Indian Summer in the Blue Ridge - California don't got
nuthin on us here ------yet
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 17:17:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
Hi Perk,
The harmonic balancer is essential for long life of the crankshaft.
Without balancer, often referred to in the Colonies and a dampener, the
crankshaft is subject to torsional vibration (internal resonant
twisting) which will eventually destroy it. If you think of the crank as
a long rod fixed to the ceiling with a heavy flywheel on the bottom. If
you were to twist the rod a little by turning the flywheel and then let
go the flywheel would rotate slightly back and forth under the torsional
spring action of the rod. This is torsional vibration and at engine
speeds which are harmonics of the frequency of this vibration the
amplitude can increase dramatically.
The harmonic balancer, having a different natural frequency dampens this
vibration.
For the balancer to work the heavy outer ring must be securely bonded to
the inner member through the rubber ring. As far as I know your balancer
cannot be repaired and should be replaced.
To be absolutely correct your crank, flywheel, clutch cover and harmonic
balancer should be balanced as a unit. If the balancer that you intend
to use is itself accurately balanced you can probably get away with just
replacing it, but, DO replace it. It is important particularly on a long
crank like a Healey 6 cylinder.
It is the old "you can pay me now or pay me more later" :-)
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Perk Hazlegrove
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 4:31 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
The balancer on the BJ8 has delaminated and fallen of the front of the
crank
pully. This happened whilst driving. It fell forward against the front
cross
member and laid there, just ajar enough to get into the fan. I was able
to
pry the thing back onto its hub, and limped home. I have pulled the
radiator
and have access to it and am now considering my options. I cannot
remove the
outer ring due to the close clearance with the cross member. I could
pry the
thing back onto its hub, as the rubber seems to be OK, but how long
would it
stay. I notice that there are two holes drilled in the ring that look
like
they are for balancing purposes. Were they all drilled the same, or was
each
engine custom balanced - ie: where would these holes line up if I could
repair
this thing. I have seen a replacement advertised for over $300. Would
it
match the balance of my car or would I have to have a machine shop fit
and
balance the thing? I don't race the car or run it up very much, what if
I
just cut the outer ring off? Anybody have any thoughts?
Perk Hazlegrove
1966 BJ8 34808
Roanoke, Va. - Still Indian Summer in the Blue Ridge - California don't
got
nuthin on us here ------yet
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:33:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedometer question
matt,
if you have a local speedometer shop, they can make you an adapter which they
splice into your speedo cable. this will get you as accurate as smith's ever
intended you to be. a few years ago, the cost for this work was less than $100.
they determine your rolling distance over a measured mile this takes
everything into consideration including speedo, tire size, etc.
happy healeying,
jerry
Matt Wilson wrote:
>
>
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I just purchased a NOS Smiths Speedometer to replace the non-functioning
> Speedometer in my 1961 AH 3000 BT7. The Speedometer in my car wasn't
> working although the Speedometer cable proved to be unkinked and otherwise
> fully functioning. I have not measured this cable's length... yet. To
> complicate things I am presently running a center shift transmission/OD out
> of a '65 3000. Anyway... I am just now learning about the intricacies of
> length of cable, Speedos for OD or non-OD, etc... Of course I am learning
> this after purchasing a NOS Smiths Speedo that was represented as fitting
> 100-6 and 3000. Anyway I checked Moss's catalog for reference numbers and
> confirmed that the Speedo I purchased (Part# SN6105/08)is appropriate for
> the BN4 and BN6 cars with Overdrive. Mine is a BT7 and like I said is
> running an overdrive transmission from a '65 3000. Will this speedometer
> work with the current 1965 transmission setup I am running? Part two of
> this question is will this same speedometer (Part# SN6105/08) work if I
> replace my '65 transmission to put back in the original '61 sideshift
> transmission that is sitting in my garage? I would be hoping to put the
> same OD that is in the car onto this correct '61 transmission when I
> ultimately do this swap.
> Best Regards,
> Matt-
> 1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:44:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
don't despair, the balancer can be professionally repaired. the cost is 1/2
the replacement cost. icalled one of our club members who has used this
service and he will be supplying me with the info and i'll get it to you as
soon as i receive it.
Perk Hazlegrove wrote:
>
>
> The balancer on the BJ8 has delaminated and fallen of the front of the crank
> pully. This happened whilst driving. It fell forward against the front cross
> member and laid there, just ajar enough to get into the fan. I was able to
> pry the thing back onto its hub, and limped home. I have pulled the radiator
> and have access to it and am now considering my options. I cannot remove the
> outer ring due to the close clearance with the cross member. I could pry the
> thing back onto its hub, as the rubber seems to be OK, but how long would it
> stay. I notice that there are two holes drilled in the ring that look like
> they are for balancing purposes. Were they all drilled the same, or was each
> engine custom balanced - ie: where would these holes line up if I could repair
> this thing. I have seen a replacement advertised for over $300. Would it
> match the balance of my car or would I have to have a machine shop fit and
> balance the thing? I don't race the car or run it up very much, what if I
> just cut the outer ring off? Anybody have any thoughts?
>
> Perk Hazlegrove
> 1966 BJ8 34808
> Roanoke, Va. - Still Indian Summer in the Blue Ridge - California don't got
> nuthin on us here ------yet
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 19:20:04 EST
Subject: Byers virus
All,
I caught the "byers" virus! Actually the virus is called the
"W32/Badtrans@MM" virus. It creates a mass mailing using Microsoft Outlook
and drops a remote access trojan. The trojan does nasty things like
transmitting IP addresses, from which access can be gained to your computer.
The author can capture info like passwords, usernames, even credit card and
bank account numbers. Don't beleive me? Check on MacAfee web site and read
the virus description. The attachment, among others, is called fun.mp3.pif,
but has tons of other names as well...
I detected the virus on my computer with MacAfee's antivirus, with the latest
.dat files. I've changed all of my passwords and usenames, and to play it
safe, I'm monitoring my credit card accounts and bank accounts daily.
Steve, this was not your fault in any way. Mine for downloading the
attachment and the jerk author for subjecting thousands to this.
Robert
66BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:43:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
This company will rebuild your harmonic balancer for about $175.00.
P.M.E. , Precision Marketing Enterprises. Phone 1-800-422-6696 in
San Diego ,CA .There web address is: www.autodogs.com I have never
used them but I have there business card in my resource book. Hope
this is helpful
Mark Fawcett
> The balancer on the BJ8 has delaminated and fallen of the front of
the crank
> pully. This happened whilst driving. It fell forward against the
front cross
> member and laid there, just ajar enough to get into the fan. I was
able to
> pry the thing back onto its hub, and limped home. I have pulled
the radiator
> and have access to it and am now considering my options. I cannot
remove the
> outer ring due to the close clearance with the cross member. I
could pry the
> thing back onto its hub, as the rubber seems to be OK, but how long
would it
> stay. I notice that there are two holes drilled in the ring that
look like
> they are for balancing purposes. Were they all drilled the same, or
was each
> engine custom balanced - ie: where would these holes line up if I
could repair
> this thing. I have seen a replacement advertised for over $300.
Would it
> match the balance of my car or would I have to have a machine shop
fit and
> balance the thing? I don't race the car or run it up very much,
what if I
> just cut the outer ring off? Anybody have any thoughts?
>
> Perk Hazlegrove
> 1966 BJ8 34808
> Roanoke, Va. - Still Indian Summer in the Blue Ridge - California
don't got
> nuthin on us here ------yet
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 18:14:41 -0800
Subject: Neil McDonald - Email Address Change
Bad News
The @home Internet Service Provider (ISP) closed its doors today and thousands
of users in North America have been left without Internet access.
Good News
Neil McDonald changed his email address some time ago. However not everyone was
informed!
The new addresses are:
For personal Email: nimcdonald@shaw.ca
For Rotary Youth Exchange Email d5040youthexchange@shaw.ca
Please update your address book accordingly.
Thanks,
Neil
........................
Neil McDonald
1981 Dunstone Place
North Vancouver, BC V7H 2M3
Canada
Home Tel: (604) 929-5655
Home Fax: (604) 924-1667
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:10:32 EST
Subject: Re: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
Why do we need a special week to drive our cars? I drive my 58 Healey almost
every day in the summer and drive the 80 TR8 all winter, so if you ask me
every week is British Car Week.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:41:27 EST
Subject: Re: Drive Your British Car Week 2002
In a message dated 12/2/01 12:13:38 PM Eastern Standard Time, HLYDOC@aol.com
writes:
> Why do we need a special week to drive our cars? I drive my 58 Healey almost
> every day in the summer and drive the 80 TR8 all winter, so if you ask me
> every week is British Car Week.
>
>
David--
I agree, and perhaps an event will motivate some folks to get their cars back
on the road early in the season so that they can enjoy them that much more?
Having said that, Scott Helms--the "curator" of the event asked if I would
help him get the word out to the Austin-Healey universe about BCW, including
getting it published in the two National Mags and posted on as many AH club
websites as possible. So, I'll be starting to make these contacts within the
next month or so.
On a local level my wife and I are going to be contacting as many of the
various British marque clubs in the DC, Maryland, Virginia and Delaware areas
as we can find to invite ALL British Car owners to show up on Sunday, May
26th at our farm in Southern Maryland. It is a nice drive in the country
(about an hour SE of DC near the Chesapeake Bay) and we'll provide the
freshly mown field and a few portable toilets--folks will be welcome to bring
their kids and pets plus a picnic lunch so long as they show up DRIVING in a
British car. As time gets closer I'll post details but count on it
happening. Feel free to invite other LBC owners.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
100 LeMans--St. Leonard, MD.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 19:08:38 +0000
Subject: Overdrive Switches
Guys - and gals,
I recently acquired a works replica gear knob with built-in o/drive
switch. I am thinking of decoupling the existing switch (which has a
proper escutcheon etc) leaving about six inches and putting in a
screw-in connector and running the remainder up the tunnel to the new
switch via another pair of screw-in connectors. That way for certain
events which are sticklers for presentation (eg the MM, Liege etc) I
should be able to unscrew and re-connect it in five minutes.
Anybody tried anything similar - are there any pitfalls that I haven't
thought of / ought to be aware of?
Thanks in advance,
Peter Dzwig
57 BN4 Healey D (early Longbridge)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:34:08 -0700
Subject: Drive Shaft
Listers,
With the driveshaft out of the car should one be able to slip the two shaft
pieces backwards and forewards a certain amount by hand? Car has been sitting
for 20 years.
Sid 65BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rcomito <rcomito at uia.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 12:00:54 -0800
Subject: California Healey Week 2002
Plans for the 2002 California Healey Week are well underway.
This year's event will be held in Solvang, California May 2-5 at the
Royal Scandinavian
Inn. Tentative plans include a group drive up to Solvang from a central
LA location
with lunch in route. A senic drive or possibly a rally through the
beautiful
country side around Solvang will end up at the Fess Parker Winery for
lunch and a tour
of the winery on Friday. The popular car show will be held on the
Saturday morning
followed by an awards banquet that evening. Sunday morning will
conclude
CHW activities with a Danish brunch and a give away of many prizes .
Please plan on joining us for this exciting event. A senic drive up the
California coast,
great weather and things to see and do in Solvang, fun Healey activities
and non stop shopping for
the ladies are just a few of the reasons to put CHW 2002 on your
calendar.
CHW comes just before many of us will be driving to Tahoe for the
International.
You might want to look at it as a it a "tune up to Tahoe." And for
those of you who are out of state,
why not make your visit to California an extended vacation?
Watch for more information after the first of the year.
For additional information contact Ralph Comito
rcomito@uia.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 12:58:28 -0800
Subject: Driving Gear - Distributor !00-6/3000
Does anyone know if a washer is used under subject Distributor Driving Gear
on any 6 cyl motors?
It appears that the use of a washer under the gear doe not allow the
distrubutor tower to seat flush on the block and when tightened downd the
ears of the tower will crack off.
Bob '62 BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 17:06:08 -0500
Subject: Fender for a 58 Bugeye Sprite
Hi,
I have been contacted by a Sprite owner here in Ottawa, Ontario
Canada who is looking for a rear fender for his 58 Bugeye Sprite. He
is also looking to get in touch with Healey Clubs near Toronto or
Southern Ontario. If someone on the list has a fender or knows of a
contact for the Southern Ontario Healey Clubs, please send me an
email and I will pass the information on to him.
Thanks,
Richard Wegner
Austin Healey Club, Ottawa
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 18:21:59 -0500
Subject: British Car Mag
For Gary----thanks for such a good article on the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
Prix in the Dec-Jan issue. Your writer captured the essence of the whole
event which is so great-----! We are fortunate here at Pittsburgh to have
it to look forward to every year.
Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 18:09:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Drive Shaft
Sid,
Yes. The rear part rides on the splines of the front part. Don't recall
that there is any nut to loosen. May need to just put penetrant in there
and let it sit for a day and pull!
Keith Pennell
> Listers,
> With the driveshaft out of the car should one be able to slip the two
shaft
> pieces backwards and forewards a certain amount by hand? Car has been
sitting
> for 20 years.
> Sid 65BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 18:19:51 -0500
Subject: Virus revisited
Thanks to all who responded to my Dell computer problem. Called Dell Tech
Support (20 minute wait) and got it resolved. Must not be the dreaded Byers
Virus. I did however open an attachment from coop1 a few minutes ago and it
was the same blank notepad. Oh, no . . .
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From EJBJR935 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 21:35:17 EST
Subject: steering box
Dear listers: I opened my steering box today for the purpose of replacing the
seal. I removed the entire shaft from the steering tube and I opened the
roller assembly and removed the roller and the seventeen roller pins. Cleaned
everything and am in the process of re-assembling. The pin actually falls out
of the bottom of the assembly. Is that correct? Also, after observing the
inside componets of the roller assembly, I am less inclined to use grease
instead of oil in the box. It appears that the roller assembly should be
bathed in oil, and that grease would not adequately lubricate the upper end
of the pin and roller pins. Any input will be appreciated.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 22:51:39 EST
Subject: Re: British Car Mag
In a message dated 12/2/2001 2:45:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tfelts@prodigy.net writes:
> For Gary----thanks for such a good article on the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
> Prix in the Dec-Jan issue. Your writer captured the essence of the whole
> event which is so great-----! We are fortunate here at Pittsburgh to have
> it to look forward to every year.
>
>
I'd like to add to the kudos. Your Editorial Board writers, Llewllin, Robson
and B.S. Levy are the best, especially B.S.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 00:50:41 EST
Subject: Re: Drive Shaft
In a message dated 12/2/01 1:40:48 PM Central Standard Time, bron@rmci.net
writes:
<< With the driveshaft out of the car should one be able to slip the two shaft
pieces backwards and forewards a certain amount by hand? Car has been
sitting
for 20 years. >>
Yes, the two parts should slide on the splined area of the shaft. Unscrew the
knurled ring and add some "snake oil" to get it to release.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 12:21:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
Rick.
I don't see anything wrong with HEALEYS or HEALEY parts for sale on the
list as long as the "AD" is posted by individuals not businesses . BUT
please make the ad short ! If someone is interested they can make contact
off the list, if not just delete it.
Thanks
Michael Giroux
62BT7, 71TR6, 81Malibu(daily driver, standard trans)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:06:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Cars For Sale On List????
Thanks for THAT little vote of confidence.....
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
> Rick.
>
> I don't see anything wrong with HEALEYS or HEALEY parts for sale on
the
> list as long as the "AD" is posted by individuals not businesses . BUT
> please make the ad short ! If someone is interested they can make
contact
> off the list, if not just delete it.
>
> Thanks
> Michael Giroux
> 62BT7, 71TR6, 81Malibu(daily driver, standard trans)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:28:13 -0500
Subject: RE: BJB Escutcheons
Most of the aluminium that I have worked with of the last few years has
been non magnetic.
My how quickly thing change
Regards,
Mike Salter
Still struggling to get my mail working correctly after changing from
@home.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 12:54:04 -0600
Subject: Richard R. from Kansas
On the cover of the Spring, 2001 edition of the Victoria British Ltd.
catalog, a 1967 BJ8 is featured with a BRG over tan? color scheme. I'd like
to find out more about this color combination. Inside the catalog we are
told that the car belongs to Richard R. of Kansas. Is he on this list?
Does anyone know him? Victoria British Ltd. would not release this
information so I thought that I would ask"The List".
Thanks!
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:40:17 +0000
Subject: Re: BN1 Instrument Details
Roger
Glad to see that you are "back on line".
I have a slighly different view from you particularly on the 100. As you
know I had access to parts when the cars where still young and my
recollection is that these lenses was originally red. Over the years the
material has faded to be more like orange.
Mind you it could be my memory that has faded and not the colour!
All the best
>
>The black hole is the end of a smal black tube. This has a recess in it, so
>if you look very carefully you'll see a step. The lens fits into the poscket
>and back against the step, keeping it from going in too far. I think it is a
>slight press fit. The color was an orangy red, -- I gues different peole
>have different views of what colors are. I would not call it a strong red
>but definitely more to the orange side, if not just orange. It was very
>frosty so the surface is not shiny.
>
>Roger
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:40:32 -0800
Subject: RE: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
Perk,
Yes, been there done that. Raise the engine up enough to get it off. I used
the Australian one (from Moss)and have been satisfied. I painted it green
first. There is another source of rebuilding your old one at Damper Dudes,
5509 Cedars Rd #2, Redding, CA 96001, 1-800-413-2673. I have heard good
things about them.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 16:29:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Harmonic (viibration) Balancer - BJ8
perk,
try al winslow
winslow mfg
5700 dean ave.
raleigh nc 27604
a few years ago al was rebuilding the balancers for $60 = shipping. you'll
have to get his phone # from directory assistance.
happy healeying,
jerry
Perk Hazlegrove wrote:
>
>
> The balancer on the BJ8 has delaminated and fallen of the front of the crank
> pully. This happened whilst driving. It fell forward against the front cross
> member and laid there, just ajar enough to get into the fan. I was able to
> pry the thing back onto its hub, and limped home. I have pulled the radiator
> and have access to it and am now considering my options. I cannot remove the
> outer ring due to the close clearance with the cross member. I could pry the
> thing back onto its hub, as the rubber seems to be OK, but how long would it
> stay. I notice that there are two holes drilled in the ring that look like
> they are for balancing purposes. Were they all drilled the same, or was each
> engine custom balanced - ie: where would these holes line up if I could repair
> this thing. I have seen a replacement advertised for over $300. Would it
> match the balance of my car or would I have to have a machine shop fit and
> balance the thing? I don't race the car or run it up very much, what if I
> just cut the outer ring off? Anybody have any thoughts?
>
> Perk Hazlegrove
> 1966 BJ8 34808
> Roanoke, Va. - Still Indian Summer in the Blue Ridge - California don't got
> nuthin on us here ------yet
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:48:30 -0500
Subject: Starting Problems
Just proudly completed my first full tune-up on my BJ8. After adjusting
valves and putting new cap,rotor,points,plugs and condensor in,then
adjusting point gap and timing she fired right up and sounded great. The
next morning she would not start for anything. Fuel pump is clicking and
carbs getting plenty of gas. Also isolated black/white wire from cutoff
switch and I double checked the coil/condensor leads in the distributor.I
checked and am definitely not getting a spark when I turn it over.
Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be in the ignition system
or how to troubleshoot further?Thanks......
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 19:31:06 -0600
Subject: Brake fluids
While trying to keep myself on top of new technologies in the ever
changing auto product market I came across Wagner brake fluid at one of the
more diverse auto stores in my area. The specs were Dot 4 one can and Dot
5.1 on another.
Anyone had any experience with these? Any good for British hydraulics?
Neither one was silicone. What really caught my eye was one can said
Lockheed on it in big bold letters.
Fortunately I live in an area where we can obtain Castrol fluid but
one never knows when you may need something else
in a pinch.
Just an inquiring mind, Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 17:01:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Starting Problems
Scot,
Sounds like condenser or other low voltage wire maybe is undone. Make sure
you've got low voltage to the coil. Will the hot wire to the coil light a
12v light bulb with the key on? Make sure your condenser wire hasn't come
undone. Is there a piece of crud between the points? Have the points come
undone so they aren't opening and closing as they should?
With a separate starter button you could crank the car, but have no juice to
the coil.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> Reply-To: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:48:30 -0500
> To: Listers <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Starting Problems
>
>
> Just proudly completed my first full tune-up on my BJ8. After adjusting
> valves and putting new cap,rotor,points,plugs and condensor in,then
> adjusting point gap and timing she fired right up and sounded great. The
> next morning she would not start for anything. Fuel pump is clicking and
> carbs getting plenty of gas. Also isolated black/white wire from cutoff
> switch and I double checked the coil/condensor leads in the distributor.I
> checked and am definitely not getting a spark when I turn it over.
> Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be in the ignition system
> or how to troubleshoot further?Thanks......
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:07:42 EST
Subject: Re: Starting Problems
Scot,
After checking that I have power to the coil, I start with a test light
hooked to a battery voltage such as the fuse panel, then put the other end on
the distributor wire side of the coil. If the light flashes when you crank
the car points are operating properly, if not check points operation, light
on all the time = short somewhere in the circuit, does not light means open
in the circuit such as dirty points or broken wire. Next put a spare coil
wire in the coil and place the other end near a ground, if you get a nice fat
spark points, coil, condensor are working properly and your problem is in the
cap, rotor or your timing is way off and spark cannot jump to the spark
towers like it should.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
BN4, AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DWright513 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:12:01 EST
Subject: Moto Healey
Back in the mid 1950s I lived in Glen Rock, NJ. Someone I knew then, Rus
Brann, owned a "Moto Healey". The car was about a 1955 model and was powered
by a Healey four cylinder motor, with Healey trans and rear end. It had rack
and pinion steering from an MG and was built, I think, on a special frame.
It looked like an upside down bathtub, kind of like a Porsche Speedster, but
not as good. There was no passenger door, just driver's side. It was
supposed to have been built in Italy as a race car and was very light weight.
Russ left Glen Rock right out of high school and as I recall, went west to
Colorado. Does anyone know of either Russ or the Moto Healey. Has anyone
ever heard of this car. And, as Dave Barry says, "I am not making this up".
Thanks, Dave Wright
wife owns a 1957 BN 4 and has since 1961.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:11:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Starting Problems
Scot,
In addition to the checks on the previous post check that
you get a spark from the high voltage side of the coil.
Then check that you are getting a spark from the #1 wire
at the plug. If you get a spark from the coil but not from
the #1 wire, you may have a cracked rotor.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of SCOT K. PAULSON
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 5:49 PM
To: Listers
Subject: Starting Problems
Just proudly completed my first full tune-up on my BJ8. After adjusting
valves and putting new cap,rotor,points,plugs and condensor in,then
adjusting point gap and timing she fired right up and sounded great. The
next morning she would not start for anything. Fuel pump is clicking and
carbs getting plenty of gas. Also isolated black/white wire from cutoff
switch and I double checked the coil/condensor leads in the distributor.I
checked and am definitely not getting a spark when I turn it over.
Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be in the ignition system
or how to troubleshoot further?Thanks......
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter C." <nosimport at mailbag.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 16:45:04 -0600
Subject: JustBrits aka Voldemort
Contrary to popular desi....errrr.. belief, Ed is in business, though his
email is down due to the ATT-Excite situation.
He can be reached via phone. Info at his site JustBrits.com
He says he misses you all....
Peter C.
Just passing through....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 23:43:43 EST
Subject: Re: Starting Problems
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 23:50:11 EST
Subject: Re: Starting Problems
Scot,
You didn't say whether the engine was cranking. If it is, you might check
to see the distributor shaft is turning and that you remembered to replace
the rotor. At the same time, check to see that you have the spring loaded
carbon contact in the center post of the distributor cap.
Hope this helps!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Barbara and Jim Wojcik" <bcwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 23:48:27 -0600
Subject: photos of the reborn BN7
Interested listers can see soem images of our reborn "60 BN7 and some "01
Conclave photos at http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/whitebearwojciks .Many thanks
to all the list contributors who have inspired and guided a thousand
decisions. Jim Wojcik, MN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 07:20:18 -0500
Subject: Healey restoration videos??
Can anyone recommend any Videos for restoring Healeys, particularly ones
that show paint finishing techniques?
I have purchased The Project Healey Video and it is nice but does not show
much of the block sanding techniques. It is a little over-produced.
I am looking for something more primitive.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 08:44:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey restoration videos??
The best resources that I have found are books at Barns and Nobles or
Borders and Libraries. As you probably know this is one area that the best
results are acquired through practice, , .
I would start on your old Chevy and leave the Healed until you've perfected
this challenge. Some things are better off left to the pros.
It takes painters many years to perfect a good quality paint job not to
mention the expense and health risks involved.
That's just my opinion after many years of trial and many errors.
Never seen any videos on the subject personally. Not trying to discourage,
just inform.
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Splitkane <Splitkane@GenomicTechnologies.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 6:20 AM
Subject: Healey restoration videos??
>
> Can anyone recommend any Videos for restoring Healeys, particularly ones
> that show paint finishing techniques?
>
> I have purchased The Project Healey Video and it is nice but does not show
> much of the block sanding techniques. It is a little over-produced.
>
> I am looking for something more primitive.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:06:40 EST
Subject: Re: Starting Problems
I've had same problem occasionaly. much to my surprise, retarding the
"perfectly adjusted timing", just a bit has solved problem.
I've wondered is I have some 'dist. shaft shift' or something. i'm using a
mallory 2 pt.
perhaps mechanical advance gets hung-up ???
Try a little retard (counter clockwise)
David Maxwell / Mrs. Peel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 09:13:40 -0800
Subject: Overdrive Strangeness
Dear Listers - My recently-rebuilt overdrive has an annoying trick. If I have it
engaged for a fairly long distance, say 30 miles or so, it'll just sort of
disengage itself and go into a weird sort of coasting mode, and then, in a very
short time, a second or so, it'll just go back to normal overdrive cruising,
with no further unusual behavior for quite some time. This happens just often
enough to take away my confidence in the overdrive, but, other than this weird
glitch, it works flawlessly. As always, your ideas and suggestions will be
appreciated. - John C, BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jim Baustian <jabaustian at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 12:44:25 -0600
Subject: Starting Problems
I discovered (the hard way) that the points gap for a Mallory Dual Point
distributor is different than the original equipment setting. Mallory has an
outstanding technical service department that can give you the specs for
your car.
Jim Baustian
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 14:12:30 EST
Subject: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
I was discussing with someone at last year's Conclave the concept of having a
piece of cable fitted over the actuator shaft on the overdrive so that if the
solenoid blew one could manyually engage and disengage OD. Has anyone done
or engineered something like this?
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 14:17:10 EST
Subject: towing an AH
I've been told that if it were necessary to be towed with the rear wheels on
the ground (I don't mean by a wrecker as much as at the end of a rope, etc.)
without unbolting a U-joint and tying the propeller shaft up I could damage
the tranny. Is this so and what is the best/proper procedure? Suppose it
were for 5-10 miles?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 15:07:44 -0500
Subject: Re: towing an AH
I towed my BN6 from Las Vegas, NV to New Jersey (2,500 or so miles) using a
car dolly with the rear wheels on the ground. I disconnected the drive shaft
at the rear flange yoke and tied it up. (This is the end nearest the
pumpkin) There are only four bolts involved and it is a very easy procedure
to disconnect and reconnect. With a BN6 it is relatively easy because this
can be done through the battery access door. I was told that this may not
have been necessary but I was always afraid that during the four days on the
road, the tranny may have slipped into gear or that the tranny and overdrive
gears would not be getting proper lubrication. When I reconnected the yoke,
I started it up and it ran through the gears perfectly. In any event, if it
is only 5 or so miles, it may be worth the chance but I'll let wiser listers
comment on that however, towing it by a rope scares me.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Subject: towing an AH
>
> I've been told that if it were necessary to be towed with the rear wheels
on
> the ground (I don't mean by a wrecker as much as at the end of a rope,
etc.)
> without unbolting a U-joint and tying the propeller shaft up I could
damage
> the tranny. Is this so and what is the best/proper procedure? Suppose it
> were for 5-10 miles?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 15:57:59 EST
Subject: Re: towing an AH
In a message dated 12/4/01 3:09:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
> was always afraid that during the four days on the
> road, the tranny may have slipped into gear or that the tranny and overdrive
> gears would not be getting proper lubrication
That is the part that confuses me: If the car is out of gear does the
transmission still move around even if towing in neutral with the driveshaft
connected? If so I can see where the damage might occur--if not what is the
problem?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 16:03:51 -0500
Subject: Re: towing an AH
If the drive shaft is connected, the tranny shafts will rotate even though you
have neutral selected. You just won't be connecvted all the way through to the
clutch and engine.When you are in idle, the neutral selection "breaks" the
connection of the gearing engine and rear end although some of the tranny
shafts are connected. When you have the rear wheels rotating, that rotation
follows through the overdrive and tranny to the point where the gearing is set
at neutral. I'm sure that some of the listers more proficient on gearing can
explain it better.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: healey6@optonline.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: towing an AH
In a message dated 12/4/01 3:09:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
was always afraid that during the four days on the
road, the tranny may have slipped into gear or that the tranny and
overdrive
gears would not be getting proper lubrication
That is the part that confuses me: If the car is out of gear does the
transmission still move around even if towing in neutral with the driveshaft
connected? If so I can see where the damage might occur--if not what is the
problem?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:06:59 -0500
Subject: Recommended Machine Shops in S.W. Connecticut?
Does anyone have a machine shop they can recommend for my engine work in the
Fairfield County area of South West Connecticut?
I imagine basic engine balancing and boring and that stuff doesn't require a
Healey specialist. I'm going to disassemble and re-assemble the engine
myself, so all I need is the machine work done.
Baltimore is too far :)
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:09:44 -0500
Subject: Gasket Sealant
I'm putting my transmission back together and am looking for a good quality
sealant. I could use the standard copper coat gasket adhesive with a
factory type gasket material, but I'd rather use a high temp silicon type
goop to avoid those embarrassing oil leaks. (as if I'm going to eliminate
them!)
Also, what advice is out there for make your own gasket material? I've used
brown paper bags in the past, and they seemed to work ok. It is a bit
inconvenient to get the official gasket set, and if there's a reasonable
alternative, I'll take it.
thanks
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:32:14 -0500
Subject: Making a Wood Dash - One idea
I finished cutting out my dash panels and came up with this method for the
difficult task of cutting out the door (BJ8):
Rather than try to be perfect with the cut, I used 2 pieces of wood: one for
the outer part, and then another for the door. This way, when cutting out
the door from the frame, I cut the door extra small and then cut a new door
extra large from another piece of wood.
Then I used my old dash as a template, and used a router with a trimming bit
and bearing at the bottom of the bit, clamped the new piece to the old dash
and trimmed the piece to an exact fit. Did the same for the door.
When assembled they fit perfectly. I did not get the 7 degree back cut that
the original had, but I thought it was pretty clever :)
Also, cutting out the holes for the gauges and the other holes, I used an
adjustable hole saw that fits in the drill press. It is a drill with an arm
that runs perpendicular to the guide drill bit which holds a vertical knife
like tool. You can cut any size hole. I have a large one and a small one.
$15 each at home depot.
Also bought a set of forester (sp?) bits at home depot for $50. Made the job
very easy. (every project is an excuse to buy another tool, I always say).
Just thought I'd share my experiences. I cut a few practice sets before I
got one I liked. Wood is cheap and it is easier on the nerves to do a test
run.
Next is the veneering... I like the Italian walnut burl from B&B Rare Woods
http://www.wood-veneers.com/
The Enviro-Tech finish is unbelievably nice. Just a long time to cure so
dust is a factor.
Ryan
BJ7 with BJ8 dash
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:53:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
I did that 38 years ago on my first BN2. It was not because I wanted a
back-up, but because my solenoid was kaput, and I had no clue where to get a
new one. It's a little foggy now, but I remember using some sort of short
choke cable arrangement up through the transmission tunnel. Worked
fine...guess I was lucky.
Knowing what I know now....ahh, the wisdom that comes with age...., I
wouldn't recommend it....What if you forget and leave it in OD while backing
up?....I understand it's fatal to the OD. I'd rather drive without
overdrive until I had a chance to replace the solenoid.
Just My $.02.
Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7....etc....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 16:28:00 -0800
Subject: Re: towing an AH
Everyone has told you right... disconnect the drive shaft if the rear wheels
will
be on the ground. Likewise, one should never never coast in neutral. It is
not
good for any transmission.
And be sure to tie that drive shaft some way... rope, baling wire, whatever, be
sure it is secure and cannot slip out of the transmission. Example: A friend
in my club was careful to disconnect his drive shaft while towing his AN5 from
Houston to Aspen. He got as far as New Mexico and stopped to visit his
brother. It was there he learned the drive shaft had slipped free of the
transmission and was no where near the car by then. He called a vendor and had
another shaft shipped to his brother's home, proceded to Aspen and upon the
return trip picked up his AN5 and the new drive shaft. And he missed the fun of
Healeying around the Aspen area!
- Bill
60 BT7 61 AN5
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I've been told that if it were necessary to be towed with the rear wheels on
> the ground (I don't mean by a wrecker as much as at the end of a rope, etc.)
> without unbolting a U-joint and tying the propeller shaft up I could damage
> the tranny. Is this so and what is the best/proper procedure? Suppose it
> were for 5-10 miles?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 16:45:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
as long as the interupter switch is working, you can back up while in od.
AH102 wrote:
>
>
> I did that 38 years ago on my first BN2. It was not because I wanted a
> back-up, but because my solenoid was kaput, and I had no clue where to get a
> new one. It's a little foggy now, but I remember using some sort of short
> choke cable arrangement up through the transmission tunnel. Worked
> fine...guess I was lucky.
>
> Knowing what I know now....ahh, the wisdom that comes with age...., I
> wouldn't recommend it....What if you forget and leave it in OD while backing
> up?....I understand it's fatal to the OD. I'd rather drive without
> overdrive until I had a chance to replace the solenoid.
>
> Just My $.02.
>
> Jim
> BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7....etc....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 18:05:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
I once saw a pretty slick installation of a choke cable actuation which was
routed up under the dash to a bracket affair similar to the stock choke
cable. It was installed in desperation back in the dark mid 1970's when not
much could be found to keep 'em on the road, and they weren't worth sinking
big bucks into.
Rich Chrysler
>
> I was discussing with someone at last year's Conclave the concept of
having a
> piece of cable fitted over the actuator shaft on the overdrive so that if
the
> solenoid blew one could manyually engage and disengage OD. Has anyone
done
> or engineered something like this?
>
> Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Sims <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 18:37:24 -0500
Subject: Re: towing an AH
Don't forget that the exhaust systems, normally low, are even lower when you
tow dragging the rear wheels. On my cross country trip, I stopped at a truck
stop 90 miles out of Las Vegas. Getting out of the car, I saw a man approaching
who said "Recognize this?" It was my muffler and tail pipes that had fallen off
when I entered the truck stop parking lot.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: John Sims
To: Awgertoo@aol.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: towing an AH
If the drive shaft is connected, the tranny shafts will rotate even though
you have neutral selected. You just won't be connecvted all the way through to
the clutch and engine.When you are in idle, the neutral selection "breaks" the
connection of the gearing engine and rear end although some of the tranny
shafts are connected. When you have the rear wheels rotating, that rotation
follows through the overdrive and tranny to the point where the gearing is set
at neutral. I'm sure that some of the listers more proficient on gearing can
explain it better.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: healey6@optonline.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: towing an AH
In a message dated 12/4/01 3:09:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
healey6@optonline.net writes:
was always afraid that during the four days on the
road, the tranny may have slipped into gear or that the tranny and
overdrive
gears would not be getting proper lubrication
That is the part that confuses me: If the car is out of gear does the
transmission still move around even if towing in neutral with the driveshaft
connected? If so I can see where the damage might occur--if not what is the
problem?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tysonoxford at aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 19:06:56 EST
Subject: Re: towing an AH
Hi Michael,
I have a folding tow bar which I purchased from an ad in Chatter in 1990, it
attaches with brackets which bolt up to the bumper bracket holes. My first
trip using this was from Long Beach to Rockford ILL for 1990 conclave with
the BJ8 behind a 34 ft. motor home with 4 wheels on the ground. The car was
then used for subsequent trips to Fla. etc. a total of 10,000 miles. My
theory was there is oil in the tranny so whats the difference if it's towed
or driven.
I have used that bar on subsequent Healeys and used it last November to move
a barn find [stored 17 years] 150 miles. never a tranny or overdrive problem.
I do use a light setup with the magnetic bases wired directly to the tow
vehicle. 10 miles should not be a problem. I have also loaned this bar to
other Healey owners without after effects being reported.
Mal Bruce
Oakville, Ontario
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 18:50:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Gasket Sealant
Ryan,
Permatex makes a product called "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" which
should work well in this application. It's not a silicone/RTV, and cures
semi-hard and tacky. You can use it with or without a gasket.
I wouldn't use ordinary paper or cardboard for gaskets, except in an
emergency. The fiber composition and density as well as the adhesives
used in ordinary paper products aren't suitable for most applications.
You can buy sheets of gasket material in varying thicknesses and
usually it's petroleum-proof.
Both are available at most auto parts stores.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> I'm putting my transmission back together and am looking for a good quality
> sealant. I could use the standard copper coat gasket adhesive with a
> factory type gasket material, but I'd rather use a high temp silicon type
> goop to avoid those embarrassing oil leaks. (as if I'm going to eliminate
> them!)
>
> Also, what advice is out there for make your own gasket material? I've used
> brown paper bags in the past, and they seemed to work ok. It is a bit
> inconvenient to get the official gasket set, and if there's a reasonable
> alternative, I'll take it.
>
> thanks
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 19:31:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Gasket Sealant
I would second Bob's recommendation--while I have not used it in your
particular application I have used AFG in other leak prone applications. My
personal claim to fame, borrowing from an earlier post is I once rebuilt a
'64 Chevy Corvair motor that DIDN'T LEAK OIL.
Ralph Nader, take that!
:)Best,
Jim, '62 BT7 tri carb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: Gasket Sealant
>
> Ryan,
>
> Permatex makes a product called "Aviation Form-A-Gasket" which
> should work well in this application. It's not a silicone/RTV, and cures
> semi-hard and tacky. You can use it with or without a gasket.
>
> I wouldn't use ordinary paper or cardboard for gaskets, except in an
> emergency. The fiber composition and density as well as the adhesives
> used in ordinary paper products aren't suitable for most applications.
> You can buy sheets of gasket material in varying thicknesses and
> usually it's petroleum-proof.
>
> Both are available at most auto parts stores.
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
>
>
> >
> > I'm putting my transmission back together and am looking for a good
quality
> > sealant. I could use the standard copper coat gasket adhesive with a
> > factory type gasket material, but I'd rather use a high temp silicon
type
> > goop to avoid those embarrassing oil leaks. (as if I'm going to
eliminate
> > them!)
> >
> > Also, what advice is out there for make your own gasket material? I've
used
> > brown paper bags in the past, and they seemed to work ok. It is a bit
> > inconvenient to get the official gasket set, and if there's a reasonable
> > alternative, I'll take it.
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Ryan
> > BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 20:26:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Gasket Sealant
You can buy gasket materials at any auto parts store.
Bill Lawrence
"Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" wrote:
> I'm putting my transmission back together and am looking for a good quality
> sealant. I could use the standard copper coat gasket adhesive with a
> factory type gasket material, but I'd rather use a high temp silicon type
> goop to avoid those embarrassing oil leaks. (as if I'm going to eliminate
> them!)
>
> Also, what advice is out there for make your own gasket material? I've used
> brown paper bags in the past, and they seemed to work ok. It is a bit
> inconvenient to get the official gasket set, and if there's a reasonable
> alternative, I'll take it.
>
> thanks
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 19:33:45 -0800
Subject: Front/rear hubs
Hi all,
Just inspected the splines on my BJ8, and unfortunately, they appear
more like a saw tooth pattern than a spline pattern. So it appears that
I need to replace both the front and rear hubs. Any suggestions on who
to go to or if there is a shop who will repair them (i.e. weld and
remachine)?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Jerry Rude
BJ8, ready for sandblast of frame, doing the front suspension right now.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 20:08:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Starting Problems
does your cap have the little graphite piece in the
top? This can go bad. Also, if the cap is cracked
it won't work.
Alan
--- "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote:
>
> Just proudly completed my first full tune-up on my
> BJ8. After adjusting
> valves and putting new cap,rotor,points,plugs and
> condensor in,then
> adjusting point gap and timing she fired right up
> and sounded great. The
> next morning she would not start for anything. Fuel
> pump is clicking and
> carbs getting plenty of gas. Also isolated
> black/white wire from cutoff
> switch and I double checked the coil/condensor leads
> in the distributor.I
> checked and am definitely not getting a spark when I
> turn it over.
> Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be
> in the ignition system
> or how to troubleshoot further?Thanks......
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 00:22:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Gasket Sealant
Ahhhhhh. Joke of the Day!
> '64 Chevy Corvair motor that DIDN'T LEAK OIL.
>
> Ralph Nader, take that!
>
> :)Best,
>
> Jim, '62 BT7 tri carb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 02:21:59 EST
Subject: Re: Gasket Sealant
In a message dated 12/04/2001 7:37:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jgh3rd@jps.net writes:
> I once rebuilt a
> '64 Chevy Corvair motor that DIDN'T LEAK OIL.
Every time I got my Corvair to stop leaking it would not run worth a darn
until it cooked the seals and started leaking again. Corvairs make Healeys
look virtually non-leaking...
Dave D.
'59 BT 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 06:40:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Front/rear hubs
Jerry
I got mine from the UK Healey Centre:
http://www.ukhealey.co.uk/
The quality is impeccable (they are truly beautifully done) although I can't
yet testify to the fit (I'm at the same stage you are). The cost including
shipping from the UK was notably less than Moss. Go figure.
The UK Healey Center is run by Steve Jowett. He is the guy who did the
restoration in the Austin Healey Project 3000 video. I have bought several
items from him as well as asked him some technical questions and I can
recommend him without reservation.
For what it's worth, I feel more comfortable buying parts from guys who do
restorations for a living. I figure (rightly or wrongly) that I am more
likely to get a "proven" part.
No interest, etc., etc.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7 (slowly but surely)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Rude" <gdrude@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 10:33 PM
Subject: Front/rear hubs
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just inspected the splines on my BJ8, and unfortunately, they appear
> more like a saw tooth pattern than a spline pattern. So it appears that
> I need to replace both the front and rear hubs. Any suggestions on who
> to go to or if there is a shop who will repair them (i.e. weld and
> remachine)?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
>
> Jerry Rude
> BJ8, ready for sandblast of frame, doing the front suspension right now.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 08:06:02 EST
Subject: Healeys & Porn
I've been deluged with emails promoting porno sites on two of my email
addresses, bluegrassclub@aol.com and BGAHC@aol.com. Both are tied into
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club web sites so I assumed that somehow they picked
up the addresses from someone's address book. My other Five email address are
Spam free.
Today at my address of BGAHC@aol.com I received a porn Spam from my own
address of bluegrassclub@aol.com How do they do that? Appropriate my screen
name?
I did not recognize any of the addresses copied in the email, and I never do.
But this mornings email also had a copy sent to "BJ8@aol.com" which sounds
like a Healey connection. I do not know anyone with that address.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 09:56:54 EST
Subject: Wire wheel source
Opinions as to the best source to purchase a set of chrome wire wheels
appreciated.Thanks. ('67 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:20:45 EST
Subject: towing/tranny question
Thanks to the many respondents to my question concerning whether or not it is
necessary to disconnect the propeller shaft if being towed with the rear
wheels on the ground. I am pleased to report that there is the usual total
lack of any consensus on what would seem to be a settled issue: About 60% of
the replies predicted dire and imminent transmission/OD damage if towing took
place with the drivetrain connected. OTOH, the other 40% reported that they
have towed their Healeys for long distances without having disconnected the
propeller shaft and experienced absolutely no problems. I just love
consensus....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (tow rope in trunk)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:22:45 EST
Subject: Re: Healeys & Porn
In a message dated 12/5/01 6:09:15, Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes:
<<
Has anyone else had this problem? >>
Yes, but the common thread is not Healeys. It's AOL.
AOL as a member service a searchable database is the target of tons of spam.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 11:45:41 EST
Subject: Wire Wheel Source
I recently purchased four Dayton #457F [15X5] chrome wire wheels with 72
spokes from British Wire Wheel. They are located in Watsonville, Calif.
[800-732-9866].
The wheels have polished stainless steel spokes and are sealed for tubless
tires.
They did a really good job of balancing the wheels after mounting the tires.
My wife and I drove 4300 miles through Europe this summer with our '60, 3000
MKI BN7 and the wheels performed flawlessly.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 10:51:14 -0600
Subject: Re: towing/tranny question
> Michael Oritt wrote:
I am pleased to report that there is the usual total lack of any consensus
on what would seem to be a settled issue: About 60% of the replies
predicted dire and imminent transmission/OD damage if towing took place with
the drivetrain connected. OTOH, the other 40% reported that they have towed
their Healeys for long distances without having disconnected the propeller
shaft and experienced absolutely no problems. I just love
consensus....
>
Michael,
Next time try one of the other life lines like 50/50 or phone a friend
instead of polling the audience. Who knows, you might just win a $1.00
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 18:50:31 -0000
Subject: Re: Front/rear hubs
Hi Jerry,
if you wish to purchase new wire wheel hub adaptors for any Healey, then why
not go direct to the actual manufacturer and supplier.
This is Orson Equipment ,and they can be found under the "trader" section of
www.classic-car-world.co.uk website, as can so many other useful contacts.
Regard's.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Rude <gdrude@pacbell.net>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: 05 December 2001 03:33
Subject: Front/rear hubs
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just inspected the splines on my BJ8, and unfortunately, they appear
> more like a saw tooth pattern than a spline pattern. So it appears that
> I need to replace both the front and rear hubs. Any suggestions on who
> to go to or if there is a shop who will repair them (i.e. weld and
> remachine)?
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
>
> Jerry Rude
> BJ8, ready for sandblast of frame, doing the front suspension right now.
>
> /// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
> /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or check out
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 10:52:50 -0800
Subject: 59/60BN7
I own H-BN7-L/405, born 27 April 1959.
Any earlier BN7s on the list ??
Since HMC started the 3000 series cars at
car #101 it appears this car is the 304th,
3000 made.
I wonder how many of the 304 cars were BN7's ?
Kirk Kvam
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M Anderson" <lynnie2k at home.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 13:01:43 -0600
Subject: test
test. Please delete.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 17:27:46 -0600
Subject: test
Is the Healey List up and running?
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 16:31:06 -0800
Subject: Re: towing/tranny question
Michael:
Sooooo, in the midst of all this "consensus" the question remains:
Will you, or will you not disconnect?
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 8:20 AM
Subject: towing/tranny question
>
> Thanks to the many respondents to my question concerning whether or not it
is
> necessary to disconnect the propeller shaft if being towed with the rear
> wheels on the ground. I am pleased to report that there is the usual
total
> lack of any consensus on what would seem to be a settled issue: About 60%
of
> the replies predicted dire and imminent transmission/OD damage if towing
took
> place with the drivetrain connected. OTOH, the other 40% reported that
they
> have towed their Healeys for long distances without having disconnected
the
> propeller shaft and experienced absolutely no problems. I just love
> consensus....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (tow rope in trunk)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 20:01:16 EST
Subject: Re: Wire wheel source-BWW
I purchased four Dayton chrome/stainless 72 spoke wires for my 100-Six about
6 months ago and am very happy with the service. They supplied special
offset wires to fit my front drums. They check the wheels for trueness and
run before they ship them. I had my expert wire wheel guy check them anyway
and he said all four were right on. They advertise in both national Healey
club magazines and British Car Mag.
Vrooom Vrooom.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 19:29:45 -0600
Subject: US Postal Service
Hi Fellows
Can someone supply me with the URL for the US Postal Service.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 20:46:19 EST
Subject: Re: towing/tranny question
In a message dated 12/5/01 7:34:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, dougi@shaw.ca
writes:
> Sooooo, in the midst of all this "consensus" the question remains:
>
> Will you, or will you not disconnect?
>
>
Doug-
it was only an inquiry for future possible reference but given what I have
read the answer is yes (with all due respect to those of different
experiences) .
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 20:06:19 -0600
Subject: Re: US Postal Service
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Fellows
>
> Can someone supply me with the URL for the US Postal Service.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
This'll scare you Ed: www.usps.com
Sometimes our gov't makes things easy but not very often.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 20:45:45 -0600
Subject: Re: US Postal Service
Hi Rick
First, thanks for the URL - knowing how obscure the Canadian
government is with most of it's web sites I thought it prudent to
ask about a USA government agency rather then go to the search
engine an end up spending a fair amount of time searching. Thanks
to the others that replied: Don, Bill, Bob, Bill, Bert and Larry
-thanks guys!
Now Rick back to the leaking engine - it's about -15C currently I
think the 30-50W in the sump and on the frame is holding station.
I just wanted to find out whether I could mail a 79 kg package to
a warm place <wink>!!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/5/01 17:36:22, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
>
> <<
> Hi Fellows
>
> Can someone supply me with the URL for the US Postal Service.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon >>
>
> Your search engine leaking oil?
>
> http://www.usps.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 22:56:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Healeys & Porn
Jim,
Yes, I have. Quite a few in the past month or so. I get about equal
numbers of porno, viagra, and increase p**** size blurbs. Very annoying.
Keith Pennell
\
> I've been deluged with emails promoting porno sites on two of my email
> addresses, bluegrassclub@aol.com and BGAHC@aol.com. Both are tied into
> Bluegrass Austin Healey Club web sites so I assumed that somehow they
picked
> up the addresses from someone's address book. My other Five email address
are
> Spam free.
>
> Today at my address of BGAHC@aol.com I received a porn Spam from my own
> address of bluegrassclub@aol.com How do they do that? Appropriate my
screen
> name?
>
> I did not recognize any of the addresses copied in the email, and I never
do.
> But this mornings email also had a copy sent to "BJ8@aol.com" which sounds
> like a Healey connection. I do not know anyone with that address.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 19:59:58 -0800
Subject: Re: US Postal Service
Minor point--the US Postal Service was privatized as a commericial
enterprise some years ago I believe, which is why it is a dot com not a dot
gov.
If it was a Gov't Agency lord knows a first class stamp would probably cost
about $387, kinda like the toilet seats and and widgets our military happily
procures.
Our tax dollars at rest,
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: US Postal Service
>
> Hi Rick
>
> First, thanks for the URL - knowing how obscure the Canadian
> government is with most of it's web sites I thought it prudent to
> ask about a USA government agency rather then go to the search
> engine an end up spending a fair amount of time searching. Thanks
> to the others that replied: Don, Bill, Bob, Bill, Bert and Larry
> -thanks guys!
>
> Now Rick back to the leaking engine - it's about -15C currently I
> think the 30-50W in the sump and on the frame is holding station.
> I just wanted to find out whether I could mail a 79 kg package to
> a warm place <wink>!!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
>
>
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 12/5/01 17:36:22, edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Hi Fellows
> >
> > Can someone supply me with the URL for the US Postal Service.
> >
> > Kind regards
> > Ed
> > Saskatoon >>
> >
> > Your search engine leaking oil?
> >
> > http://www.usps.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 00:02:30 -0500
Subject: Re: US Postal Service
Actually, the same page comes up whether you use usps.com or usps.gov
They have obviously attempted to minimise access problems.
John Slade
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ajtoepfe <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 22:10:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Wire wheel source
I purchase 5 Dayton 15x5, 60-spoke chrome wheels with 175 x 15 Michelin ZX
tires mounted and balanced from British Wire Wheel:
http://www.britishwirewheel.com
I chose to have them seal the rims and mount the tires tubeless.
Al Toepfer
59 BT7L/1173
> From: COPPIFAN@aol.com
> Reply-To: COPPIFAN@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 09:56:54 EST
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Wire wheel source
>
>
> Opinions as to the best source to purchase a set of chrome wire wheels
> appreciated.Thanks. ('67 BJ8)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 22:15:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Source
Just another Bruce Erfer fan here (of British Wire
Wheel).
I originally bought my chrome 72 spoke wheels from
Motor Wheel Service in the UK. Although they were
very nice, all of the wheels progressively broke
spokes over time, I believe I had two wheels that
after only 5 years of use had broken over 20 spokes
each!!
Tired of this, I sent all four wheels to BWW to be
relaced and trued and I am happy to report that in 6
years of normal use, not one single spoke has loosened
or broken off.
If you want new wire wheels it is best to get them
direct from BWW rather than getting them from a
standard parts supplier that hasn't relaced or trued
them. Just my two cents & unbiased opinion on it all.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
>
> I recently purchased four Dayton #457F [15X5] chrome
> wire wheels with 72
> spokes from British Wire Wheel. They are located in
> Watsonville, Calif.
> [800-732-9866].
> The wheels have polished stainless steel spokes and
> are sealed for tubless
> tires.
> They did a really good job of balancing the wheels
> after mounting the tires.
> My wife and I drove 4300 miles through Europe this
> summer with our '60, 3000
> MKI BN7 and the wheels performed flawlessly.
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The Risenmay Family" <radishmom at mstar2.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 23:35:40 -0700
Subject: Virus Stuff
My apologies to the person I sent this to personally...I can only say in my
defense that I have been working on this for hours and I'm tired!
Sorry to bring this up--but I somehow got a virus even though I didn't open
an attachment. I have no idea how. I know I had it because a message set
off the alarm, I deleted it, didn't remember what the name of the virus was
(I have 10 kids--I'm a tired Mom!) I've scanned, but it didn't come up.
However, I now have computer problems. I remember that someone was talking
about this same type of problem...can anyone send me any of that info,
please?!
Charly
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 23:06:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Source
Alan,
Bruce sold BWW a few years back (probably not too long after they
did the work for you).
The "new" owners seem to be every bit as conscientious as Bruce.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Just another Bruce Erfer fan here (of British Wire
> Wheel).
>
> I originally bought my chrome 72 spoke wheels from
> Motor Wheel Service in the UK. Although they were
> very nice, all of the wheels progressively broke
> spokes over time, I believe I had two wheels that
> after only 5 years of use had broken over 20 spokes
> each!!
>
> Tired of this, I sent all four wheels to BWW to be
> relaced and trued and I am happy to report that in 6
> years of normal use, not one single spoke has loosened
> or broken off.
>
> If you want new wire wheels it is best to get them
> direct from BWW rather than getting them from a
> standard parts supplier that hasn't relaced or trued
> them. Just my two cents & unbiased opinion on it all.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Wilson" <J.Wilson at mgt.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 11:37:39 -0000
Subject: Cigar Lighter Positioning
I'm rebuilding a '67 Healey 3000 that has had its interior gutted. I've
bought a used centerpiece for the dash- the metal panel between the
left and right wooden parts. This panel has had a cigar lighter installed
to the right and a little below the heater control knob. The installation
appears to have been a good job- a nice round hole that closely fits
the lighter body. About the only thing to make it look odd is the fact
that the edge of the hole isn't finished as are the others for the switches
and heater controls.
I've never seen any photos or diagrams showing a cigar lighter
installed. Is this the correct positioning? If not, then where ought it
go? Was the lighter a factory- or a dealer-installed option?
Any assistance would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance.
James.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 06:57:23 -0500
Subject: Heandrix Wire Wheel
Would someone be willing to give testimonial regarding Hendrix Wire Wheel in
North Carolina. I'm ready to purchase four Dayton 457F's 72 spoke wheels with
175x15 ZX's also. I live in Florida and the freight charges SHOULD BE LESS
than shipping from BWW in CA. How does Hendrix compare to BWW?
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8
Bradenton, FL
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:41:05 EST
Subject: Re: Virus Stuff
In a message dated 12/6/01 12:30:36 AM Central Standard Time,
radishmom@mstar2.net writes:
<< somehow got a virus even though I didn't open
an attachment. >>
Charly,
I understand the Bad_Trans virus does not need to be opened to infect your
PC. A good place to check on virus stuff and also scan on line is Trend Micro
<http://housecall.antivirus.com/housecall/start_corp.asp> You can have your
PC scanned while on line and read about what Bad_Trans does.
Good luck
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 07:54:16 -0700
Subject: re The risenmay family request
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
: FW: Today's computer virus attack
> Just getting back on line to send you guys this. This is really a bad
one -
> within 60 seconds I had about 50 messages from people with the subject
line
> "Hi!" Hope most of you know about this virus by now. If you get a
message
> with a subject line "hi" - even from someone you know (it automatically
goes
> to other mailboxes when infecting), DELETE IT. Then empty your trash
> (recycle bin)! David, by the way, is our IT manager.
>
> Training Operations Officer
> PROTECTION TECHNOLOGY LOS ALAMOS
> 505.667-3917
>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 4:52 PM
> To: All Employees
> Subject: Today's computer virus attack
> Importance: High
>
> The virus that hit us was just discovered today. It is reeking havoc all
> over the nation.
>
> http://www.msnbc.com/news/667238.asp?0si=-
> <http://www.msnbc.com/news/667238.asp?0si=->
>
> Here is Symantec's write-up on it:
>
>
http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.goner.a@mm.html
>
<http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.goner.a@mm.html
> >
>
> When it hit us we were forced to shut down the email server because it was
> propagating extremely rapidly. We could not turn email back on until
> Symantec released virus definitions to detect this new virus. These virus
> definition were not available until 3:30pm today. We then had to download
> them and install them before the email server could be turned on again.
>
> While we have Anti-Virus software and update the virus definitions as they
> are released there is always the possibility that a new virus (such as
this
> one) can infect our network. Caution should be exercised when opening
> unfamiliar file attachments.
>
> Thanks for you patience through all this.
>
> Incidentally, it was ----- who heard about this virus and informed
> the IT Department as to its name and behaviors. This saved us
considerable
> time it determining what we were dealing with. !
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 07:57:07 -0700
Subject: Fw: new viruses no LBC content-joke
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 4:18 PM
Subject: new viruses
>
> The following viruses have been recently discovered.
>
> THE ALGORE VIRUS:
> Causes your computer to just keep counting and counting.
>
> THE CLINTON VIRUS:
> Gives you a 7-Inch Hard Drive with NO memory.
>
> THE BOB DOLE VIRUS (as the VIAGRA VIRUS):
> Makes a new hard drive out of an old floppy.
>
> THE LEWINSKY VIRUS:
> Sucks all the memory out of your computer, then emails
> everyone about what it did.
>
> THE JESSE JACKSON TROJAN:
> Generates a new file while claiming to clean the Clinton
> Virus, then hides for 18 months.
>
> THE RONALD REAGAN VIRUS:
> Saves your data, but forgets where it is stored.
>
> THE MIKE TYSON VIRUS:
> Quits after two bytes.
>
> THE OPRAH WINFREY VIRUS:
> Your 300mb hard drive shrinks to 100mb, then slowly
> expands to restabilize around 200mb.
>
> THE JACK KEVORKIAN VIRUS:
> Deletes all old files.
>
> THE ELLEN DEGENERES VIRUS:
> Rejects the insertion of any disks.
>
> THE PROZAC VIRUS:
> Totally screws up your RAM, but your processor doesn'tcare.
>
> THE JOEY BUTTAFUOCO VIRUS:
> Only attacks minor files.
>
> THE ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER VIRUS:
> Terminates some files, leaves, but will be back.
>
> ...and ...
> THE LORENA BOBBITT VIRUS:
> Reformats your hard drive into a 3.5 inch floppy, then
> discards it through Windows
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 09:16:50 -0600
Subject: Fw: new viruses no LBC content-joke
Dave
It's interesting that Lorena remains an object of interest!
Regards
Ed
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 4:18 PM
Subject: new viruses
>
> The following viruses have been recently discovered.
>
> THE ALGORE VIRUS:
> Causes your computer to just keep counting and counting.
>
etc
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 09:36:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Source
Alan,
Just curious, were your original wheels Daytons or Dunlops. I've heard thru
the grapevine that this is prone to happen with Dunlops but have never heard
it directly from a Dunlop owner. Thanks in advance for the info.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
Dayton 15X5 72 SS HD Tubeless Spokes from BWW and very, very happy!
----- Original Message -----
From: "One.Proud.American" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <ZManDino@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 12:15 AM
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Source
>
> Just another Bruce Erfer fan here (of British Wire
> Wheel).
>
> I originally bought my chrome 72 spoke wheels from
> Motor Wheel Service in the UK. Although they were
> very nice, all of the wheels progressively broke
> spokes over time, I believe I had two wheels that
> after only 5 years of use had broken over 20 spokes
> each!!
>
> Tired of this, I sent all four wheels to BWW to be
> relaced and trued and I am happy to report that in 6
> years of normal use, not one single spoke has loosened
> or broken off.
>
> If you want new wire wheels it is best to get them
> direct from BWW rather than getting them from a
> standard parts supplier that hasn't relaced or trued
> them. Just my two cents & unbiased opinion on it all.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I recently purchased four Dayton #457F [15X5] chrome
> > wire wheels with 72
> > spokes from British Wire Wheel. They are located in
> > Watsonville, Calif.
> > [800-732-9866].
> > The wheels have polished stainless steel spokes and
> > are sealed for tubless
> > tires.
> > They did a really good job of balancing the wheels
> > after mounting the tires.
> > My wife and I drove 4300 miles through Europe this
> > summer with our '60, 3000
> > MKI BN7 and the wheels performed flawlessly.
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The Risenmay Family" <radishmom at mstar2.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 08:48:20 -0700
Subject: Virus Thanks - Off Topic
Thanks to everyone who responded to me. I was able to use that info to get
the problem fixed without a lot of problem. It was the goner virus, disabled
my anti-virus software. Thanks again!
Charly
"I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it."
radishmom@mstar2.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 10:44:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Heandrix Wire Wheel
Gary,
I have dealt with Hendrix with excellent results, but can't say how
they compare with BWW, except that as the "new kid on the block"
they do try hard and deliver what they say. I suspect there is not much
difference in price (except shipping). Hendrix service was speedy and
correct the first time. Very painless, too--call in an order, and in a few
days everything arrives ready to go on the car. I have no qualms about
recommending them.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 5:57 AM
Subject: Heandrix Wire Wheel
>
> Would someone be willing to give testimonial regarding Hendrix Wire Wheel
in
> North Carolina. I'm ready to purchase four Dayton 457F's 72 spoke wheels
with
> 175x15 ZX's also. I live in Florida and the freight charges SHOULD BE LESS
> than shipping from BWW in CA. How does Hendrix compare to BWW?
>
> Gary R. Cox
> '67 BJ8
> Bradenton, FL
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 11:57:13 EST
Subject: Wire Wheels/Europe Tour/Identity
Ryan,
I am not familiar with the Cobra wheels, so cannot compare them with the
Daytons. But since they seem to come with 2 spokes less, I will stick to my
choice. I mounted 175 x 15 Michelin ZX (S rated) tires but found they give no
warning when breaking loose on wet pavement.
John,
I live in California and used V.I.P. Transport to ship my car to New Jersey
for shipping to Europe. We joined 13 other couples who also shipped their
Healeys [including 2 Sprites] for a 48 day European Odyssey through eight
countries. It would take too long to describe what a fabulous trip it was.
You can contact me direct for details.
Tom,
Sorry I omitted my name, but you know who I am since we followed you half way
through Europe.
Alex. Zanini
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 12:41:30 -0500
Subject: Spam
Jim: I have also been deluged with many types of unwanted " Spam" A
few months ago I was infected with a worm virus and it messed up my
computer
which is still having repercussions !!!! Now I do not open any mail
or attachments if I do not know the person and I only open
mail/attachments from the
Healey list ( Kudos to the Web Master!!) EDS
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
I've been deluged with emails promoting porno sites on two of my email
addresses, bluegrassclub@aol.com and BGAHC@aol.com. Both are tied into
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club web sites so I assumed that somehow they
picked
up the addresses from someone's address book. My other Five email
address are
Spam free.
Today at my address of BGAHC@aol.com I received a porn Spam from my
own
address of bluegrassclub@aol.com How do they do that? Appropriate my
screen
name?
I did not recognize any of the addresses copied in the email, and I
never do.
But this mornings email also had a copy sent to "BJ8@aol.com" which
sounds
like a Healey connection. I do not know anyone with that address.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Dec 2001 12:51:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Spam
Ed,
You are still courting trouble. Forget the kudos to the Web Master of the list.
All of the virus shots I've been getting are from list members whose addresses
and subjects are stolen by the virus and resent out..
Bob
Ed Santoro wrote:
> Jim: I have also been deluged with many types of unwanted " Spam" A
> few months ago I was infected with a worm virus and it messed up my
> computer
> which is still having repercussions !!!! Now I do not open any mail
> or attachments if I do not know the person and I only open
> mail/attachments from the
> Healey list ( Kudos to the Web Master!!) EDS
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 20:47:49 -0000
Subject: RE: Fuel starvation??
Ed,
I've not got to the bottom of it yet.
I've just knocked off a couple of easy ones first-
checked the fuel cap, for breathing, just in case.
oiled the felt pad in distributor which oils the vacuum springs.
(But I know the distributor's OK)
taken some crud, not much, out of the pump and checked it's
points etc, which are like new.
and that's about it. You see, I've been laid up
with a ghastly flu! Typical. I've been OK to send/receive the
occasional email, but a good session in & under the Healey would
just about do me in right now.
I DID see that there is a nastyish looking kink right where the
pipe comes away from pump. Good start.
Right now, I've just popped the pump back in and it just clicks
at me. Guess there's an air lock. Hardly surprising.
Dash - that must be some other struggling soul!
Yr's,
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Santoro [mailto:esantoro@drbc.state.nj.us]
Sent: 06 December 2001 16:01
To: simon.lachlan
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation??
Simon: How did you fare on your problem ???..Also, how did the
dashboard trim fit ?? All the best, EDS
"simon.lachlan" wrote:
> Ed,
> Simon: A similar problem occurred on my BN4. It nearly drove
me
> crazy for many
> months. I finally figured out the problem. I had a dent in my
> fuel Line above
> the rear end.
> [S.D.Lachlan] I reckon mine's OK. BUT, I know I'd be mad not to
> check every inch before I try to eliminate the less tangible
> things.
>
> It was causing a lower volume of fuel to be pumped and a lack
of
> fuel to my rear
> carb. After a run with the car, stop and
> check each fuel bowl. If the rear-most carb does not have gas-
> that is your
> problem!
> [S.D.Lachlan] Yes, floats and bowls are lining up as primary
> suspect.
>
> Obviously you will need to carefully inspect the entire fuel
line
> for any
> damage. I hope
> this solves your problem ! ED S
> [S.D.Lachlan] The solution is out there somewhere! I thank you
> for your advice....
>
> Simon Lachlan
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon EX5 4NN
> UK
> 01392-882248
>
> March1962 MkII
> HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 15:55:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Heandrix Wire Wheel
gary,
hendrix is a good guy just as bww are. call allen and he will make you a good
deal.
happy healeying,
jerry
Gary R. Cox wrote:
>
>
> Would someone be willing to give testimonial regarding Hendrix Wire Wheel in
> North Carolina. I'm ready to purchase four Dayton 457F's 72 spoke wheels with
> 175x15 ZX's also. I live in Florida and the freight charges SHOULD BE LESS
> than shipping from BWW in CA. How does Hendrix compare to BWW?
>
> Gary R. Cox
> '67 BJ8
> Bradenton, FL
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 16:03:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus Stuff
the iopener doesn't attract any virii, however, every now and then it needs a
dose of preperation h.
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/6/01 12:30:36 AM Central Standard Time,
> radishmom@mstar2.net writes:
>
> << somehow got a virus even though I didn't open
> an attachment. >>
>
> Charly,
> I understand the Bad_Trans virus does not need to be opened to infect your
> PC. A good place to check on virus stuff and also scan on line is Trend Micro
> <http://housecall.antivirus.com/housecall/start_corp.asp> You can have your
> PC scanned while on line and read about what Bad_Trans does.
>
> Good luck
> Don
> NTAHC
>
>.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 18:16:12 EST
Subject: Re: Hendrix Wire Wheel
Gary,
I have been to Allen Hendrix's shop, he has the equipment to correctly do
wire wheels, quite a few of the local club memebers have used his services
and have been pleased with the results, plus he actually drives a Healey.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 20:05:47 EST
Subject: Re: Healeys & Porn
Thanks to all who responded! Seems programs go through web sites and collect
email addresses and that is why my two accounts have gotten so much Spam.
Which brings me to another dilemma. Like most clubs, we list the club
officers on a web page with an email address so that they can be contacted.
Are we exposing these accounts to spammers also? I'm tempted to eliminate the
individual addresses and just offer the club address of
information@bluegrassclub.com.
But in a strange twist, those address of officers are actually listed as Hot
Links.(Click on it and you send an email) For some reason they have never
been the subject of spammers. Is it luck or because they are links?
I thought I would share this info because so many club web sites are doing
the same thing and we may be exposing ourselves to spammers that can clog our
email accounts. In my case I separated my web addresses from my personal
accounts so I can just dump the Spam but I would hate to unwittingly set
someone else up by listing them on a web page.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 22:41:56 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation - Carb filter??
In a message dated 12/6/2001 12:53:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
simon.lachlan@virgin.net writes:
>
> taken some crud, not much, out of the pump and checked it's
>
Did you also check the fuel filter at the banjoe union where the fuel line
connects to the carb?
Vrooom vroom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 23:01:48 -0500
Subject: fast idling
Listers,
Some of you may remember that a while back I had trouble getting the idling
down to the 700-800 range on the BN7. This went on for several months. Well,
the other day I was wiping down some nasty areas in the engine compartment
including around the carbs and linkage.
A few days later I drove over to a friend's and Voila! Proper Idling! Guess
I jiggled something in the linkage.
Weather here in coastal VA today was clear and mid70s. And we have had 60 to
70 degree temps for 2 weeks or so. Makes for real nice Healey driving!
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 20:15:16 +1100
Subject: WAS Re: Healeys & Porn - NOW: how to stop website email
Hi Jim & list,
There is a technique you can use to stop robot based email 'harvesters'
taking the email addresses off your (or your Healey clubs) website
Here is the method I use - a little javascript:
<script language=javascript>
<!--
var linktext = "Send me an email";
var email1 = "Yourname";
var email2 = "yourISPhost.com";
document.write("<a href=" + "mail" + "to:" + email1 + "@" + email2 + ">" +
linktext + "</a>")
//-->
</script>
It 'breaks' up the email address (so the robots can't identify it as an
email address) and then reassembles it into a HTML block. Works for me!! So
for your email address, the code would be:
<script language=javascript>
<!--
var linktext = "Send me an email";
var email1 = "Jwhlyadv";
var email2 = "aol.com";
document.write("<a href=" + "mail" + "to:" + email1 + "@" + email2 + ">" +
linktext + "</a>")
//-->
</script>
Simple and effective
If you go to my website, http://www.myaustinhealey.com/index.html
and look near the bottom of the page, left side - you'll see it in action -
looks just like (and works just like) a normal HTML coded link to a email.
But not to an email harvester... The 'link text is 'send me an email' - but
you can obviously change it to anything you like!!
I had exactly the same concerns when I set up the AHOC NSW club webpage -
and provided a list of email addresses for the committee - which is why I
researched this.
Hope this helps. I have copied it to the list incase anyone else is
interested.
Chris
PS Jim - any chance of a link to my website from yours?? Since I changed my
site URL - the search engines seem to have a problem finding & indexing my
site - I need more incoming links for the spiders to follow!!
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: Healeys & Porn
>
> Thanks to all who responded! Seems programs go through web sites and
collect
> email addresses and that is why my two accounts have gotten so much Spam.
>
> Which brings me to another dilemma. Like most clubs, we list the club
> officers on a web page with an email address so that they can be
contacted.
> Are we exposing these accounts to spammers also? I'm tempted to eliminate
the
> individual addresses and just offer the club address of
> information@bluegrassclub.com.
>
> But in a strange twist, those address of officers are actually listed as
Hot
> Links.(Click on it and you send an email) For some reason they have never
> been the subject of spammers. Is it luck or because they are links?
>
> I thought I would share this info because so many club web sites are doing
> the same thing and we may be exposing ourselves to spammers that can clog
our
> email accounts. In my case I separated my web addresses from my personal
> accounts so I can just dump the Spam but I would hate to unwittingly set
> someone else up by listing them on a web page.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 10:03:43 -0000
Subject: RE: Fuel starvation - Carb filter??
Didnt think there wass one in my, later, style pump??? Would sure like
confirmation on this point!
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: JSoderling@aol.com [mailto:JSoderling@aol.com]
Sent: 07 December 2001 03:42
To: simon.lachlan@virgin.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation - Carb filter??
In a message dated 12/6/2001 12:53:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
simon.lachlan@virgin.net writes:
taken some crud, not much, out of the pump and checked it's
Did you also check the fuel filter at the banjoe union where the fuel line
connects to the carb?
Vrooom vroom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 10:03:35 -0000
Subject: Fuel starvation to pump problem
You have all been very kind and made helpful suggestions re my
Tricarb getting to the top of a hill without running out of puff.
As and when the weather improves, I shall be better placed to
look at the various possibilities. BUT..........
the first place to start was probably always going to be the
pump.
I took it apart. I took some/a little crud out. I
cleaned the filter and checked around the body area.
I checked out the points and the electric area. All fine.
Put it back, switch on the ignition and it just sits
there.......well, not quite. It does turn over. But in place of
the familiar SU click, I have more of a muted little thump. Quite
regular, even little thumps. No increase in speed as it neither
sucks nor pushes.
All perfectly regular. Not a drop of petrol is moving!!!!!!!!!
The lines are correctly connected.
I could take it all down again, but would feel happier if I knew
what I might be seeking?????
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Alex Superak" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 05:42:57 -0500
Subject: Re Hendrix Wire Wheels
Gary,
I had 4 Dayton 72 spoke wheels fitted to my BJ8 about a year ago from
Hendrix Wire Wheels. I am
very please with the quality and professionalism of Alan Hendrix. You
should give him a call, or
visit his web page www.hendrixwirewheel.com .
Alex
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 06:34:44 -0600
Subject: Re: WAS Re: Healeys & Porn - NOW: how to stop website email
This stuff makes working on British cars seem easy. I'm glad you guys know
what your talking about. I'll just listen and learn.
Thanks, Mark
>
> Hi Jim & list,
>
> There is a technique you can use to stop robot based email 'harvesters'
> taking the email addresses off your (or your Healey clubs) website
>
> Here is the method I use - a little javascript:
>
> <script language=javascript>
> <!--
> var linktext = "Send me an email";
> var email1 = "Yourname";
> var email2 = "yourISPhost.com";
> document.write("<a href=" + "mail" + "to:" + email1 + "@" + email2 + ">" +
> linktext + "</a>")
> file://-->
> </script>
>
> It 'breaks' up the email address (so the robots can't identify it as an
> email address) and then reassembles it into a HTML block. Works for me!!
So
> for your email address, the code would be:
>
> <script language=javascript>
> <!--
> var linktext = "Send me an email";
> var email1 = "Jwhlyadv";
> var email2 = "aol.com";
> document.write("<a href=" + "mail" + "to:" + email1 + "@" + email2 + ">" +
> linktext + "</a>")
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 11:56:03 -0000
Subject: FW: Fuel starvation to pump problem. An update.
Hope your patience isn't quite exhausted.....
since posting the message, below, I have read my books for the
four hundredth time, but this time more carefully perhaps.
I'm pretty sure that I've got an AUF 301 pump in my car, which I
reckon is a late type. I'd not think it standard for most MkII
BT7's as it's not in the parts book. BUT, as it surely looks like
a factory fitting AND mine is a fairly late BT7, I reckon I'll
live with what I've got. (per BMC)
So, I reckon that I've put the two valves in wrong. I've thought
so much about it that I can't remember, but they're either both
tongue up or tongue down. I suppose that would account for the
failure? It has to????
Another question.......whilst delving around underneath the RHS
(UK driver's side) I noticed a further line, which looked at
first glance like fuel. But it's black plastic, flexible and
,obviously, bypasses the pump. It goes through the rear bulkhead,
heading towards the fuel tank filler tube. What is it? Surely not
a vent?
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan@virgin.net]
Sent: 07 December 2001 10:04
To: Healeys
Subject: Fuel starvation to pump problem
You have all been very kind and made helpful suggestions re my
Tricarb getting to the top of a hill without running out of puff.
As and when the weather improves, I shall be better placed to
look at the various possibilities. BUT..........
the first place to start was probably always going to be the
pump.
I took it apart. I took some/a little crud out. I
cleaned the filter and checked around the body area.
I checked out the points and the electric area. All fine.
Put it back, switch on the ignition and it just sits
there.......well, not quite. It does turn over. But in place of
the familiar SU click, I have more of a muted little thump. Quite
regular, even little thumps. No increase in speed as it neither
sucks nor pushes.
All perfectly regular. Not a drop of petrol is moving!!!!!!!!!
The lines are correctly connected.
I could take it all down again, but would feel happier if I knew
what I might be seeking?????
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 05:29:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Brake pressure switch and silicone brake fluid
Last night I was about to replace the brake pressure
switch (no brake lights bad switch) when I remembered
some years ago that there was some postings on this
list that said that silicone brake fluid was not
compatible with the brake pressure switches in old
British cars (I guess Lucas). The brake fluid damaged
the rubber diaphragm inside the switch. The new switch
I got appears to be NOS Lucas and I did not install
it for fear that it would be damaged also.
Please let me know is it safe for me to put in this
switch or is there a newer version of the switch that
is not affected by the type of brake fluid I use.
Thanks in advance.
Jorge
AH BJ8
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 08:53:31 EST
Subject: Re: Brake pressure switch and silicone brake fluid
I've seen that silicone fluid can cause some of the old Girling brake
cylinder parts to swell, thereby causing problems, but mostly on 100s.
Givent he nature of the swelling, and having taken brake switches apart, I
don't think this problem would affect their operation. The switches usually
"fail" due to corrosion on the contacts within.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 09:12:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation to pump problem. An update.
I'll bet its the battery cable...
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan@virgin.net>
> Another question.......whilst delving around underneath the RHS
> (UK driver's side) I noticed a further line, which looked at
> first glance like fuel. But it's black plastic, flexible and
> ,obviously, bypasses the pump. It goes through the rear bulkhead,
> heading towards the fuel tank filler tube. What is it? Surely not
> a vent?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 09:30:35 -0800
Subject: SD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, December 2001
Hi,
I've just uploaded the December 2001 issue of the Austin Healey Club of San
Diego's Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition, featuring Annice Kitterer's report
from our Oktoberfest BBQ, with color photos. See
<http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President & Newsletter Editor (and President-elect)
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:04:11 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation to pump problem. An update.
In a message dated 12/07/2001 7:24:05 AM Mountain Standard Time,
bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
<< I'll bet its the battery cable...
Jim >>
I would think if it is flexible it would be the wiring for the fuel guage and
the rear lights.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 16:29:09 -0500
Subject: Starting Problems Solved
Just a note to thank all of you who responded to the starting problem on my
Healey. At 11:45 AM PST today HBJ8L36081 fired back to life and all is
right with the world again! It runs perfectly!
I wish I could tell the list specifically what it was but I'm still unable
to pin down exactly what the culprit was. I tore down the distributor to
the counter weights and put in all new components including a new coil and
plug wires. If nothing else I now have the satisfaction of knowing the car
has had a complete tune-up and learned a thing or two along the way.
Thanks to all again....
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 14:09:12 -0800
Subject: Re: WAS Re: Healeys & Porn - NOW: how to stop website email
Tell you what... I'll gladly trade website creation and scripting for a
complete rebuild of my (hasn't been started in over 30 years) BN1 engine.
Any takers?
Brad Weldon
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA http://healey.org/
BN1 [226796]
Internet Consultant http://bradw.com/
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mark and kathy
LaPierre
> > Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 4:35 AM
> > To: Chris Dimmock; Jwhlyadv@aol.com
> > Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: WAS Re: Healeys & Porn - NOW: how to stop website email
> > harvesters & spammers
> >
> >
> >
> > This stuff makes working on British cars seem easy. I'm glad you
> > guys know
> > what your talking about. I'll just listen and learn.
> >
> > Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 17:29:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting Problems Solved
Scot, that is the beauty of our cars. There are many problems that appear to
fix themselves. A couple of weeks ago, I just could not get my idle down and
the mixture correct. Yesterday it was 70 degrees (who would figure that for
December in New Jersey) so I fired her up and everything was correct. I
guess being 44 years old, she gets a bit cranky sometimes. I am in the habit
of patting her on the fender each time I go into the garage and, I guess,
that makes her mellow enough to run correctly. (my Healey not my wife but
that is another story)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOT K. PAULSON" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 4:29 PM
Subject: Starting Problems Solved
>
> Just a note to thank all of you who responded to the starting problem on
my
> Healey. At 11:45 AM PST today HBJ8L36081 fired back to life and all is
> right with the world again! It runs perfectly!
> I wish I could tell the list specifically what it was but I'm still unable
> to pin down exactly what the culprit was. I tore down the distributor to
> the counter weights and put in all new components including a new coil and
> plug wires. If nothing else I now have the satisfaction of knowing the car
> has had a complete tune-up and learned a thing or two along the way.
> Thanks to all again....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 22:43:09 -0000
Subject: Austin Healey 100S for sale.
Listers, this vehicle is currently on the market in the UK.
1955 Austin Healey 100S, chassis number 3504, the fourth made of the
lightweight "S" model.
Bought new by US movie star Jackie Cooper and the only car to be finished in
spruce green.
Raced extensively in the Fifties including the Sebring 12 hours.
Further details: www.gregorfisken.com
Regard's.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 18:54:43 -0600
Subject: fan color bj8
I have a couple questions regarding a BJ8, 1967
need to know color of fan blades and also small tin shroud on
radiator over the fan blades
I need a blower housing also for the heater blower, motor is still
good but housing is smashed.
--
Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
http://www.tbirdranch.com
Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 21:29:50 EST
Subject: Healey in "Hormel" comercial
FYI
I have just been watching the "Pearl Harbor: Legacy of an Attack" with Tom
Bokaw. There was a "Hormel" commercial in which a red BJ8 was shown. I was
not quite quick enough to observe in my first viewing if it was a Phase 1 or
a Phase 2.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 20:56:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation to pump problem
are you sure you put the valve plates back in. These are the little metal discs
under the inlet and outlet fittings. They have to be in place and in the right
place or nothing is moving anywhere.
good luck.
Bill Lawrence
"simon.lachlan" wrote:
> You have all been very kind and made helpful suggestions re my
> Tricarb getting to the top of a hill without running out of puff.
> As and when the weather improves, I shall be better placed to
> look at the various possibilities. BUT..........
> the first place to start was probably always going to be the
> pump.
> I took it apart. I took some/a little crud out. I
> cleaned the filter and checked around the body area.
> I checked out the points and the electric area. All fine.
> Put it back, switch on the ignition and it just sits
> there.......well, not quite. It does turn over. But in place of
> the familiar SU click, I have more of a muted little thump. Quite
> regular, even little thumps. No increase in speed as it neither
> sucks nor pushes.
> All perfectly regular. Not a drop of petrol is moving!!!!!!!!!
> The lines are correctly connected.
>
> I could take it all down again, but would feel happier if I knew
> what I might be seeking?????
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon Lachlan
> Comfort House
> Bradninch
> Devon EX5 4NN
> UK
> 01392-882248
>
> March1962 MkII
> HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 22:28:32 -0800
Subject: Viruses
Washington, D.C. With yet another email virus spreading
across the globe, 41 U.S. states and six European countries today
announced that the act of creating an attachment based computer
virus will now be considered a hate crime because it intentionally
targets stupid people.
Hate crime victim Bob Fnork is stunned to discover
he has just opened another infected attachment.
"In a hate crime, the offender is motivated by the victim's
personal characteristics, and in the case of email viruses, the maker
is clearly singling out those who open email attachments when
they've been told a thousand times not to," said California Attorney
General Bill Lockyer. "Like any other segment of the population,
people of stupidity need protection from bias."
The decision, however, is already causing a firestorm of
controversy. In the United States, the American Civil Liberties
Union vehemently opposed the action, arguing it runs counter to
the spirit of hate crime laws.
"Hate crime statutes are specifically designed to protect
minority groups," said ACLU President Nadine Strossen. "I'm not
sure the number of stupid computer users meets that criterion."
France, meanwhile, said it would not prosecute anyone willing to
write a virus in French.
But in London, the British Civil Idiots Union applauded the
move, arguing that virus based hate crimes cause victims to suffer
psychological harm. "Every time we pass on one of these emails,
our self-esteem is shattered when we are forced to publicize our
condition," said CIU President Michael Overly. "It's always a
shock to my system every time I have to write, "Hey everybody, if
you get an email attachment from me, don't open it! I just found
out my computer got infected by a virus! Sorry!"
In identifying virus based hate crime activity, U.S. and European
Law enforcement authorities said they will focus on anyone
creating a virus delivered via email attachment that contains either
no subject line or a vague subject line such as "Hey, check this
out!" "I saw this and thought of you!" or "I am wanting to get your
opinion on this."
Congressional leaders also said they will amend the 1990 Hate
Crimes Statistics Act and require the FBI to track data on crimes
based on race, religion, sexual orientation, ethnicity, or stupidity.
As a result, some experts expect the annual number of hate crimes
in the U.S. alone to jump from 6,500 to 132 million.
Others believe the actual number will be higher, but say many
crimes will go unreported because the victim refuses to recognize
what has happened. Dallas, Texas resident Mike Smith is a case in point.
"I am not a victim of a hate crime because I am not stupid,"
said Smith. "I got an email with an attachment from my buddy in
Phoenix, so naturally, I opened it. What's so stupid about that?"
What, Smith was asked, did the email say?
"It said, 'I_love_you.' Why?"
In Moline, Ill., police have already made their first arrest under the
expanded laws. Matthew Spere, a 17-year-old high school senior,
was taken into custody this morning after police said he had
created and propagated a variant of the "Goner" virus. In a phone
interview, Spere denied the charges. "My virus wasn't targeting
stupid computer users specifically, just anyone using Microsoft's
Outlook Express or AOL," he said.
"Oh... damn."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 22:41:15 -0800
Subject: Re: fan color bj8
John:
The fan is yellow.
the shroud over it is a chinese red and is brushed on not sprayed.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
"John R. Draxler" wrote:
> I have a couple questions regarding a BJ8, 1967
>
> need to know color of fan blades and also small tin shroud on
> radiator over the fan blades
>
> I need a blower housing also for the heater blower, motor is still
> good but housing is smashed.
>
> --
> Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
> 7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
> http://www.tbirdranch.com
> Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 00:18:51 -0800
Subject: Test
Test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 06:15:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey in "Hormel" comercial
you must be slowing down in retirement. better start your dexterity workouts
to get ready for the drive to lake tahoe. perhaps you need to change over to
AllBran from MBran. see ya on the road !!
MBran89793@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> FYI
>
> I have just been watching the "Pearl Harbor: Legacy of an Attack" with Tom
> Bokaw. There was a "Hormel" commercial in which a red BJ8 was shown. I was
> not quite quick enough to observe in my first viewing if it was a Phase 1 or
> a Phase 2.
>
> Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
> Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
> Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
> 727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 15:51:55 +0000
Subject: Article on Healeys (& Lotus) - worth a read
UK newspaper Daily Telegraph has a feature in its Motoring section this
weekend (8 Dec 01) about the offspring of great car designers, and leads
with the Healey family.
Go to:
http://www.motoring.telegraph.co.uk
Click 'Features' and go to "Designer DNA"
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 14:24:19 EST
Subject: Re: WAS Re: Healeys & Porn - NOW: how to stop website email
Thanks Chris!
I've added your site to my web page. For others who may not be familiar with
"Spiders" here is some background information. Search engines send out
"spiders." "Spiders" are programs that go through web pages looking for links
to other web pages. This is how search engines learn about web pages.
So the more web pages you are listed on the better chance of being placed on
a search engine by a visiting "spider." You can buy software to help or hire
a service, but most of us have spent all our money on car parts and tools so
this is how we do it for free. That's why Healey people always try to list
other Healey people on their web site.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 16:27:20 EST
Subject: Kyosho 1/18th scale model Healey
Just in time for Christmas, wonder if they planned it that way. At any rate,
I just recieved the first of the two Healey's promised by Kyosho from a mail
order model car supplier (Exoticar). It is supposed to be an early 3000
Black over red with red interior. The quality is superior. Here are the few
faults that I could see: disc wheels (possible), creased bonnet (possible
but not likely), 100/6 head, tonneau cover only goes to the top of the front
seats (this does allow us to see the back seats), Piping on the seats is only
on the edge of the seat backs, lots of extra knobs on the dash, drivers side
has 3/4 of a floor mat, passenger side has an oversized heal mat, boot has
carpet rather than armor cord (looks nice), Only the valve cover is Healey
engine green---the rest is silver, fan is black, the trim bits between the
fenders and the front shroud from the headlights down should be black and
they made em silver, missing windscreen washer spigots. OK, that's the bad
news, the good news is that it is finished extremely well with lots of
excellent detail: bonnet opens, boot opens, both doors open, lots of great
detail. The price is a bit over $54.00 delivered and from what I can see it
is worth the price. They are also supposed to have a Primrose yellow 100/6
in the next month.
My local Hobby shop (Colpar Hobbies in Denver has a web site too.) just
called and said that they have just gotten the model in as well, so check
with your local shop.
What do you think?
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 17:32:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Kyosho 1/18th scale model Healey
I tried to access their web site and got as far as the first page before it
bombed. Looks as if they have some great stuff. Will try again.
thanks for the lead,
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
Subject: Kyosho 1/18th scale model Healey
>
> Just in time for Christmas, wonder if they planned it that way. At any
rate,
> I just recieved the first of the two Healey's promised by Kyosho from a
mail
> order model car supplier (Exoticar).
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 17:39:46 -0600
Subject: generator bearing end plate
would anyone have an end plate for a bj8 generator
this is the one on the end where the pulley is
I just broke one taking it apart,
--
Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
http://www.tbirdranch.com
Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 19:46:33 EST
Subject: Healey Posters
Just in time for Christmas I found two new Healey posters at
http://www.autotrend.com/newlist.html. One is a red BJ8, the other a Black
with red inserts BT7. Both are very nice looking posters. No financial
interest, etc., etc., just thought they looked nice.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 18:50:47 -0600
Subject: bj8 distributor
what is the best thing to do when restoring a distributor for the bj8
does it need any special attention
should I install the electronic conversion
what coil should I use, the one on the car was junk anyway
--
Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
http://www.tbirdranch.com
Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 20:10:17 EST
Subject: Re: bj8 distributor
Check the bushings for play, and if there is any, replace them if you stay
with points. I suggest using the Pertonix conversion, and one of their coils
matched to the ignition sensor. Take the distributor to your local race
shop, with your cam specs(stock or otherwise) and compression ratio and have
them recurve it with new springs...don't waste time using the old fatigued
springs.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
\what is the best thing to do when restoring a distributor for the bj8
does it need any special attention
should I install the electronic conversion
what coil should I use, the one on the car was junk anyway
<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 08:43:06 -0500
Subject: Club peferences
Just for the sake of discussion, would some of you list members care to
elaborate on the relative merits / differences of the two national clubs?
I intend to join one.....but which one?
Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 08:22:05 -0600
Subject: Trim Piece
Hi Gang:
I'm finally getting around to "trying" to put the vinyl pieces on the parts
that go over the fender wells on my BN7. At the bottom of the old ones are
metal pieces about a foot long, 5/8" wide with a bent up portion that fits
over the bottom edge of the pieces where they contact the deck. I have
looked in all the parts catalogues I can find and nowhere do I see this
piece. Do any of you know where I can find them? I hesitate to continue
without using them since they appear to be "stiffeners" to keep the bottom
from caving in if pressure is applied to that area.
Also, I asked the question in a separate post that never appeared, "do any
of you think, like I skeptically do, that anti-virus program writers MAY be
responsible for starting viruses (virii?) since their livelihood depends on
new viruses (virii?) making the scene occasionally?
Don
BN7
Kentucky
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:17:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Club peferences
Gordy:
Unless car hobby money is a major limiting factor (how can it be, you drive
a Healey?) I would join both. They both put out good magazines that are
worth the price of admission.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 8:43 AM
Subject: Club peferences
>
> Just for the sake of discussion, would some of you list members care to
> elaborate on the relative merits / differences of the two national clubs?
> I intend to join one.....but which one?
>
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:20:33 EST
Subject: Re: Club peferences
<< ggilliam@usol.com writes: > Just for the sake of discussion, would some of
> you list members care to elaborate on the relative merits / differences of
> the two national clubs? I intend to join one.....but which one?>>
>
Depends on what price you put on information. Both have merits, both have
differences, join both. Both are excellent clubs. For $70 per year you can be
a member of both AHCA and AHCUSA and receive a wealth of information. It is a
small price to pay compared to your Healey investment for what you will learn
and the opportunities you will receive to save money and enjoy the Marque.
Add another $10 or so for a local club membership and you will meet a lot of
nice people. The get a subscription to Editor Gary's British Car Magazine to
complete your library and you're set.
For about $100 per year you can have access to a lot of great information,
meet a lot of nice people and enjoy the marque.
Just my .02 worth.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:39:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
If you install a mechanical "override" to the solenoid, then you would also
be overriding the gearshift switch, yes? Wouldn't that eventually lead to
trying to reverse the car with the overdrive engaged, leading to major
damage to the overdrive?
I installed a warning light in my BJ8 years ago that tells me the overdrive
solenoid is powered. I did this because of the warning in the workshop
manual against reversing the car with overdrive engaged, and after
frequently doing just that. It's the gearlever switch that normally allows
this to be done without damaging the overdrive. The light usually reminds
me to turn off the dash switch before reversing the car (and adds some
additional protection in case the gearshift switch has failed closed), but
occasionally I inadvertently do it anyway. Seems that installing a
mechanical overdrive operating cable would guarantee that you would damage
your overdrive pretty soon afterwards.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
>
> I was discussing with someone at last year's Conclave the concept of
having a
> piece of cable fitted over the actuator shaft on the overdrive so that if
the
> solenoid blew one could manyually engage and disengage OD. Has anyone
done
> or engineered something like this?
>
> Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 01:45:41 +1100
Subject: Re: Club peferences
Hi Gordy,
As this is actually an International Forum - so I'll answer your question
with reference to Australia.
There are no "national Healey clubs" here in Australia - let alone two. We
have a much more complex system - we have a 'Big Healey' Club in most
states (usually called 'The Austin Healey Owners Club of <State> eg NSW,
Victoria, South Australia etc.) We also have a Sprite Club in most states
(AHSDC in Vic, SCCA in NSW, - no common naming convention - etc.). So
typically, Australian Clubs differentiate by models - 'biguns' and
'littleuns'. Its been this way for quite a while - the Sprite Car Club of
Australia - SCCA (which is a little bit confusing - as it is actually a NSW
club; rather than a National club) was founded in 1960 or 1961 - and is
either the oldest, or second oldest surviving Sprite Club in the world. I
heard that there is another Club in America which also calls itself the
SCCA - but they were probably just trying to cash in on the Sprite Club of
Australias popularity and international recognition....... The AHOC NSW was
founded in 1969 - 8 years later.
The Queenslanders have 2 clubs (one for 'all Healeys' - one for 'bigguns
only') - and Western Australia is the only state I know of with just one
club in total for 'all healeys'.
I'm from NSW - so there may be some slight inaccuracy in my generalisations
for the other states. Personally - I'm a member of both NSW clubs - SCCA and
AHOC. I'm also a member of the Austin Healey Club USA (but have been pretty
slack regarding attending their meetings etc)
So - there are no National Clubs here in Oz - but all the 'biguns' clubs get
together once a year for a 'National Rally' - and all the 'lttleuns' clubs
get together once a year for a 'National Challenge'. But they both do it at
the same time - at Easter - so generally - you can only go to either one or
the other - as they usually hold them in different states - and Australia is
a pretty big place.
So which country has two national clubs ?? That would be a very confusing pr
oposition - wouldn't it??
: )
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:43 AM
Subject: Club peferences
>
> Just for the sake of discussion, would some of you list members care to
> elaborate on the relative merits / differences of the two national clubs?
> I intend to join one.....but which one?
>
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:54:41 EST
Subject: Re: Club peferences
Join them both! They deserve your support! I find great articles, events
calenders, tech info, and informative ads in both of them.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:59:09 EST
Subject: Stolen 1.5
Hi everyone,
This may not be your marque, but it may be a car that you can look out
for....... If so, contact David@pipeline35.co.uk
Thanks! (read below)
Subj: Stolen 1.5
Date: 12/9/01 4:13:35 AM US Eastern Standard Time
From: David@pipeline35.fsnet.co.uk (David Pipes)
Sender: owner-riley@autox.team.net
To: riley@autox.team.net
A Riley 1.5 was stolen in the Manchester area (UK) during the weekend of
10/11th November. Details as follows:
Reg No. 3312 TJ
Colour Grey
Chassis No. R-H52-6883
Engine No. 15RD-U-4-2252
Eng. Size 1489cc
Much of the glass had been broken in a previous incident. If this car,
or if any parts you suspect may be from this car, are offered to you or
you see them for sale in the local press, auto jumbles or in breakers
yards, please phone Aled Owen on 01942 896118 immediately.
--
David Pipes
'54 Riley RME
editor@rileymotorclub.org <www.rileymotorclub.org>
david@pipeline35.fsnet.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 09:03:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Club peferences
Hi Gordy
Jim Werner's comments are excellent except I would substitute
"Practical Classics" and "Classic Cars" when it comes to
choosing magazines
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Gordon Gilliam wrote:
>
> Just for the sake of discussion, would some of you list members care to
> elaborate on the relative merits / differences of the two national clubs?
> I intend to join one.....but which one?
>
> Gordy
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:20:53 EST
Subject: Fwd: Club peferences
In a message dated 12/9/01 10:19:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, Awgertoo writes:
> In a message dated 12/9/01 8:46:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> ggilliam@usol.com writes:
>
>
> >> I intend to join one.....but which one?
>>
>>
>
> Gordy--why not join both? More info, etc. etc. If there were ten mag's
> about Healeys that I could subcribe to I would have them all...
Return-path: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Full-name: Awgertoo
Message-ID: <16c.556d4b4.2944db15@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:19:49 EST
Subject: Re: Club peferences
To: ggilliam@usol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10540
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
In a message dated 12/9/01 8:46:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ggilliam@usol.com writes:
> I intend to join one.....but which one?
>
>
Gordy--why not join both? More info, etc. etc. If there were ten mag's
about Healeys that I could subcribe to I would have them all...
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:29:05 EST
Subject: Re: Ovrdrive solenoid "backup"
In a message dated 12/9/01 9:43:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
> If you install a mechanical "override" to the solenoid, then you would also
> be overriding the gearshift switch, yes? Wouldn't that eventually lead to
> trying to reverse the car with the overdrive engaged, leading to major
> damage to the overdrive?
>
> I installed a warning light in my BJ8 years ago that tells me the overdrive
> solenoid is powered.
Steve--
I would only use this "backup" if I were on the road and did not have the
time or parts on hand to replace the solenoid. I agree with your caution,
however, and interestingly I placed just such a light in my dash to fill up
the hole left when I moved my OD switch down onto the shifter. I wired it so
that it indicates the condition of the OD relay, not the switch, so it is
handy to know that sometimes I have not "kicked out" of OD even though I may
have blipped the accelerator and closed the OD toggle switch. West Marine
sells some nice low intensity pilot lights that only require drilling out the
OD switch escutcheon plate a bit. I bought mine in red and it is just a bit
glaring for highway nite driving so I will most likely replace it with green.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:58:46 EST
Subject: Kyosho model in Europe etc...
Hi All,
It was just brought to may attention that I neglected our friend Charles
Matthews of Triple M, he sells tons of Healey toys. He also has a supply of
the Kyosho models for those of you in the UK and the rest of Europe. Contact
him at:
http://www.adam.com.au/htf/mmm.html
Phone: + 44 (0) 1295 788898
E-mail: matthews@clara.net
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 11:05:07 EST
Subject: Re: Club peferences
cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
<<> As this is actually an International Forum >>
>
> Fair enough, we Americans can be so short sighted at times!
How about this question: If you are from North America and a member of AHCA,
AHCUSA, subscribe to British Car Magazine, Practical Classics and Classic
Cars, what else is recommended? This comes to mind as I am filling out my
renewal forms for 2002. I'm going to re-up my club memberships as always but
wonder what else is out there?
Some clubs have great magazines but they are geared towards local activities
and interests. Are there any comparable to Healey Marque and Austin Healey
Magazine that come recommended? I thought about Healey Driver International.
Are the UK club magazines of interest to US owners? How about Dipstick
Digest, is Ron Yates still publishing that? He sent me a copy once and I
thought it was great
I can never get enough of a Healey Fix to satisfy me.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jbpate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 11:40:58 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Windshield bracket
I am putting my windshield back together after rechroming. It appears
I have either lost or never had a bracket that attaches to the center of
the bottom frame. This bracket attaches to to the shroud through the
dashpad. Does anyone have a spare bracket they are willing to sell or
could provide dimensions to make one? Is it chrome or painted? Other
than the buffered nut that attaches to the shroud, what sort of rubber
buffering is done to provide dampening of the windshield. In other
words, how is this bracket fitted to the shroud. Thanks Barry Pate 1967
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 11:50:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Club peferences
My vote is to join both. They have slightly different editorial policies but
to have only one means you will surely miss something.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam@usol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 8:43 AM
Subject: Club peferences
>
> Just for the sake of discussion, would some of you list members care to
> elaborate on the relative merits / differences of the two national clubs?
> I intend to join one.....but which one?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 11:54:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Club peferences
I also belong to the Austin Healey Club UK which puts out a great magazine.
they are at www.austin-healey-club.com. I'm with you -- the more the better.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jwhlyadv@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: Club peferences
>
> cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
> <<> As this is actually an International Forum >>
> >
> > Fair enough, we Americans can be so short sighted at times!
>
> How about this question: If you are from North America and a member of
AHCA,
> AHCUSA, subscribe to British Car Magazine, Practical Classics and Classic
> Cars, what else is recommended? This comes to mind as I am filling out my
> renewal forms for 2002. I'm going to re-up my club memberships as always
but
> wonder what else is out there?
>
> Some clubs have great magazines but they are geared towards local
activities
> and interests. Are there any comparable to Healey Marque and Austin Healey
> Magazine that come recommended? I thought about Healey Driver
International.
> Are the UK club magazines of interest to US owners? How about Dipstick
> Digest, is Ron Yates still publishing that? He sent me a copy once and I
> thought it was great
>
> I can never get enough of a Healey Fix to satisfy me.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
> BJ8 BN4
> jamesfwerner.com
> bluegrassclub.com
> britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "www.healey.org" <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:04:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Club peferences
On Sun, 9 Dec 2001 08:43:06 -0500, Gordon Gilliam wrote:
<< Just for the sake of discussion, would some of you list members care to
elaborate on the relative merits / differences of the two national clubs? I
intend to join one.....but which one? Gordy >>
Hi Gordy,
Heck, I'm president of one of those two national clubs, and even I ALWAYS
recommend joining both. I'm proud of the club that I lead, but we place the
good of the marque and the members above parochialism and we endorse joining
both. Why deny yourself the pleasures and benefits of either one? Join
both!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
president, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:55:09 EST
Subject: Re: Club peferences
Thanks John!
I've heard good thing about the UK club. Is there a preference to which
Centre an overseas member should belong to or is it all the same magazine? Do
individual centres publish newsletters etc? Personally, I like the links page
of the Eastern Centre website the best. :)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 14:10:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Club peferences
When I joined, there was only one option - the Midlands Centre, which on the
National Club's web site is called the Midlands & Overseas Centre. They have a
very good magazine called "Revcounter" and some very good regalia. As far I
know, the magazine is the same regardless of the Centre joined. One thing I
received this year at renewal was a pocket reminder that has some great things
in it (including maps of the English highway system if I ever get over there!!)
If I remember correctly, I had to print out a membership request from their
site which I mailed to them along with foto of my car. That part is not
mandatory but they prefer it. I don't remember if they take plastic of checks.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
To: healey6@optonline.net ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Club peferences
Thanks John!
I've heard good thing about the UK club. Is there a preference to which
Centre an overseas member should belong to or is it all the same magazine? Do
individual centres publish newsletters etc? Personally, I like the links page
of the Eastern Centre website the best. :)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:38:09 +0000
Subject: Club preferences
In message <16d.55a9f2b.29450d8d@aol.com>, Jwhlyadv@aol.com writes
>
>Thanks John!
>
>I've heard good thing about the UK club. Is there a preference to which
>Centre an overseas member should belong to or is it all the same magazine? Do
>individual centres publish newsletters etc? Personally, I like the links page
>of the Eastern Centre website the best. :)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
Perhaps I can throw in a bit of information here about the UK club.
When you join the UK club you actually join a 'Centre', and thereby
attain membership of the national club. Seven of the Centres are
regional; the eighth is HDI (Healey Driver International), which you
would think would be the natural and only Centre for overseas members -
but not so! HDI is described as "An activity-based worldwide Centre, for
members whose primary interest is in Healey motor sport, classic racing,
rallying, sprint and hill-climbing and other events in the UK, Europe,
and beyond".
Our Midlands Centre sometimes calls itself the "Midlands & Overseas
Centre". Anyone, however, is free to join any Centre of their choice
(and that includes us in the UK).
Each regional Centre runs autonomously, with its own membership, events
and newsletters. The monthly magazine 'RevCounter' is a national
publication, and is distributed to the members through the Centres.
The regional Centres take it in turn to host the national 'Healey
Day/Weekend' each year, though the pattern will be broken next year
because of the significance of the AH50 celebrations (which principally
take place in the Thames Valley Centre region).
There's more on all of this on the national web site (address below),
though, in the light of the questions, I'll see if I can clarify some
points about membership, etc on the site. Anyone can, of course, drop me
a line to answer any other specific questions.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:36:35 +1100
Subject: Re: Club peferences
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> There are no "national Healey clubs" here in Australia - let alone two. We
> have a much more complex system - we have a 'Big Healey' Club in most
> states (usually called 'The Austin Healey Owners Club of <State> eg NSW,
> Victoria, South Australia etc.) We also have a Sprite Club in most states
> (AHSDC in Vic, SCCA in NSW, - no common naming convention - etc.). So
> typically, Australian Clubs differentiate by models - 'biguns' and
> 'littleuns'.
Minor correction, there are currently only 3 Sprite clubs -- Austin Healey
Sprite
Drivers' Club (Victoria, founded in '66), SCCA (NSW) and Sprite Club of
South Australia (founded in the early 70s). Tasmanians join either AHSDC or
SCCA mostly, and Queenslanders mostly join the local AHOC.
There were other clubs (Queensland had one but it folded, and I think the
Australian Capitol Territory), but they have long since gone.
The Sprite clubs have their own National gathering once per year (called the
National Challenge because, after the partying, the next most important
activity
is competition.
Each of these clubs has their own magazine.
Some of us are members of both the AHOC clubs and the Sprite clubs. I am
an associate member of AHOC (Vic) (associate because I don't own a big
Healey), as well as a member of ASHDC. Some of our big Healey brethren have
even started to appreciate Sprites enough to buy them and compete in them on
the race track!
Mike
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 12:20:38 +1100
Subject: RE: Kyosho 1/18th scale model Healey
G'day Richard
Ditto all those errors plus the chassis is incorrect as it goes over the
diff banjo. However it's a great model and well worthwhile having.
So is the '53 Le Mans car by Starter even if it is the wrong car and painted
the wrong colour.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyHundred@aol.com [mailto:HealeyHundred@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 8:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Kyosho 1/18th scale model Healey
Just in time for Christmas, wonder if they planned it that way. At any
rate,
I just recieved the first of the two Healey's promised by Kyosho from a mail
order model car supplier (Exoticar). It is supposed to be an early 3000
Black over red with red interior. The quality is superior. Here are the
few
faults that I could see: disc wheels (possible), creased bonnet (possible
but not likely), 100/6 head, tonneau cover only goes to the top of the front
seats (this does allow us to see the back seats), Piping on the seats is
only
on the edge of the seat backs, lots of extra knobs on the dash, drivers side
has 3/4 of a floor mat, passenger side has an oversized heal mat, boot has
carpet rather than armor cord (looks nice), Only the valve cover is Healey
engine green---the rest is silver, fan is black, the trim bits between the
fenders and the front shroud from the headlights down should be black and
they made em silver, missing windscreen washer spigots. OK, that's the bad
news, the good news is that it is finished extremely well with lots of
excellent detail: bonnet opens, boot opens, both doors open, lots of great
detail. The price is a bit over $54.00 delivered and from what I can see it
is worth the price. They are also supposed to have a Primrose yellow 100/6
in the next month.
My local Hobby shop (Colpar Hobbies in Denver has a web site too.) just
called and said that they have just gotten the model in as well, so check
with your local shop.
What do you think?
Richard Gordon
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2001 18:38:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Trim Piece
Sorry I can't help you with the first inquiry, but as for the second the thought
has crossed my mind. A little fox and hen house action maybe?
Bill Lawrence
Don Yarber wrote:
> Hi Gang:
> I'm finally getting around to "trying" to put the vinyl pieces on the parts
> that go over the fender wells on my BN7. At the bottom of the old ones are
> metal pieces about a foot long, 5/8" wide with a bent up portion that fits
> over the bottom edge of the pieces where they contact the deck. I have
> looked in all the parts catalogues I can find and nowhere do I see this
> piece. Do any of you know where I can find them? I hesitate to continue
> without using them since they appear to be "stiffeners" to keep the bottom
> from caving in if pressure is applied to that area.
> Also, I asked the question in a separate post that never appeared, "do any
> of you think, like I skeptically do, that anti-virus program writers MAY be
> responsible for starting viruses (virii?) since their livelihood depends on
> new viruses (virii?) making the scene occasionally?
> Don
> BN7
> Kentucky
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 19:18:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 100S for sale.
Jackie Cooper's 100S.... I need to check my pocket
change for a spare couple hundred thou.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- David Ward <david@bighealey.ltd.uk> wrote:
>
> Listers, this vehicle is currently on the market in
> the UK.
> 1955 Austin Healey 100S, chassis number 3504, the
> fourth made of the
> lightweight "S" model.
> Bought new by US movie star Jackie Cooper and the
> only car to be finished in
> spruce green.
> Raced extensively in the Fifties including the
> Sebring 12 hours.
> Further details: www.gregorfisken.com
> Regard's.
> David.
>
> David Ward
> Big Healey
> Tel: +44 1623 871908
> Fax: +44 1623 871908
> E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
> http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BTARH2O at aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 22:25:49 EST
Subject: Camshaft Sources
Listers
I am about to begin rebuilding the engine in my BJ7 and plan to replace the
original cam with a late BJ8 grind. I can recall many posts on engine
rebuilding with various modifications from original but I don't recall any
mention of specific sources for either new or regrind camshafts. Can anyone
recommend a good source? Any help and or advice will be appreciated..
Bob Tarwater
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 23:41:09 -0500
Subject: Virus-Don't open my mail before 10Dec
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:52:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Bj8 Distributors
Some personal observations on distributors.
We have an old Sun "Synchograph" distributor test machine and we use it
to set up Lucas distributors during a major tune up. We have literally
tested hundreds of Lucas point style distributors on this machine.
Much an all as we would like to get lots of jobs rebuilding worn
distributors; we have found that timing variations and spark "scatter"
in the units that we have tested has been extremely small.
Even when the distributor shaft can be wobbled left to right a
considerable amount when run up to any speed there is very little
variation in the spark timing or the dwell angle. We have tested and
passed as satisfactory distributors where the wear was so great that you
had to lengthen the slot o the points to adjust the gap to the correct
reading but they still test out OK.
We have also found that if the centrifugal advance mechanism is original
and working, the chances are that it will be operating almost exactly to
specs. In fact the only distributors that we find that do not match the
original advance curve are the ones that have been rebuilt with
replacement springs by "speed shops".
Obviously if the upper shaft is seized on the lower shaft the
centrifugal advance mechanism does not work, and often we find that he
vacuum capsule does not work, but rebushing and re springing a
distributor will most likely make no difference to the way your car
performs.
As far as I can figure the only purpose of the vacuum advance is to
advance the spark timing on deceleration to limit backfiring so in as
far as performance is concerned it has no effect. Some one on the list
may be able to suggest that it has another purpose.
If you are changing the engine specs the original distributor timing
will not be correct for your particular engine; however a few hours of
dyno work and a few hours setting up the distributor to match will solve
that. LOL
Another consideration of course is today's fuels which do not match, for
performance, those for which the distributor was designed, but that is
another subject all together.
If you really want to get the ultimate in performance you should buy and
install, crank and cam sensors, an MAP sensor, intake temp sensor and
engine temperature sensor; feed the readings into a programmable
ignition module and produce an ignition timing map for the engine. Of
course if we are going that far multi port injection and twin turbos
would be a BIG asset as well.
We have also found that it is all well and good to install the latest
wiz bang electronic set up but if something goes wrong and the engine
starts to run badly the only way to really eliminate the electronic set
up as a possible cause is to install an original distributor to test it
because no one saves all the relevant test procedure instructions that
came with the unit 2 owners back!!
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Regards,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:08:44 -0600
Subject: RE: Bj8 Distributors
Thanks for the info Mike. Pretty interesting stuff, I know my shaft wobbles
quite a bit.. oh I mean.. never mind..;-)
Just wondering how the Lucas sports coils effect all of this? Are they
worth it? Is there a noticeable improvement in overall performance? TIA
Steve
61BN7
>If you really want to get the ultimate in performance you should buy and
>install, crank and cam sensors, an MAP sensor, intake temp sensor and
>engine temperature sensor; feed the readings into a programmable
>ignition module and produce an ignition timing map for the engine. Of
>course if we are going that far multi port injection and twin turbos
>would be a BIG asset as well.
>We have also found that it is all well and good to install the latest
>wiz bang electronic set up but if something goes wrong and the engine
>starts to run badly the only way to really eliminate the electronic set
>up as a possible cause is to install an original distributor to test it
>because no one saves all the relevant test procedure instructions that
>came with the unit 2 owners back!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:25:19 -0500
Subject: Alignment of internal Overdrive pieces
Healeyers:
I took the overdrive unit off the transmission so I could replace some
transmission pieces, but did not work on the OD unit itself. Now that I'm
re-attaching it to the transmission, I'm finding that the internal pieces
seem to have shifted, causing the unit to not fit tightly with the
transmission. It stops about 1/4" before completely mating up with the
transmission.
Upon inspection inside the OD, I can see that there are two splined sections
inside that are about 1/8" out of synch with one another. Also, it seems the
pilot piece in the end is partly off center from the splined parts.
Question: how do I align these two splined plates? My guess is that they
are held tightly by springs and cannot be simply turned to align with one
another. I don't have the alignment tool recommended by Bentleys.
Question2: How did they become un-aligned? The OD unit has sat idle for
about 2 years while the chassis was being fixed. Bizarre.
Finally, if I have to open the OD to remove pressure so I can align it, does
it go back together easily? I haven't taken one apart before because, "If it
ain't broke ..."
thanks
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:30:52 -0500
Subject: Fluids - which to use? sorry for this old subject :)
I've seen this topic again and again, but now that I'm listening....
what fluids should I use, and what reasonably priced substitutes can be
purchased in common automotive stores? 20 years ago when I first bought
this car, I thought the answer to everything (except brakes) was 90 weight
oil. I'm pretty sure that isn't the correct answer. Don't want to blow out
my shocks again.
Shocks
Brake Fluid (new hydraulics -master and slave in place)
transmission,OD
Steering Idler
Steering box
Differential
Thanks. Sorry to bomb the list.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:34:44 -0500
Subject: Rear Suspension BJ7
I finally have a rolling chassis! No engine or transmission in place, and
the gas tank is empty, but here's my question:
Is it reasonable that my rear-end/differential is still stuck to the
chassis? That is, it is not suspended above the frame.
When I get in the car and jump up and down, the only give comes from the
tires. I think that when the car has all its fittings on it (doors, seats,
gas, engine transmission etc) it will weigh down the car enough to get the
springs to bend, but I'm afraid that my new rear springs are still so stiff
that I'll get the same ride as my old springs gave (teeth chattering rough).
Hope I'm just a worrier here.
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:51:09 -0600
Subject: RE: Rear Suspension BJ7
When someone else tried this on the list.. his neighbor was ready to call
the men with the white coats... be careful.. Make sure the garage door is
down!! ;-)
Steve
61BN7
>When I get in the car and jump up and down, the only give comes from the
Ryan
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:56:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Suspension BJ7
Ryan,
If you have installed new rear springs the leaves may be stuck together,
due to assembly before the paint dried. It may not be possible to achieve
a proper ride without un-sticking them. Zinc and teflon between the leaves
has already been discussed on the list.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 9:34 AM
Subject: Rear Suspension BJ7
>
> I finally have a rolling chassis! No engine or transmission in place, and
> the gas tank is empty, but here's my question:
>
> Is it reasonable that my rear-end/differential is still stuck to the
> chassis? That is, it is not suspended above the frame.
>
> When I get in the car and jump up and down, the only give comes from the
> tires. I think that when the car has all its fittings on it (doors, seats,
> gas, engine transmission etc) it will weigh down the car enough to get the
> springs to bend, but I'm afraid that my new rear springs are still so
stiff
> that I'll get the same ride as my old springs gave (teeth chattering
rough).
>
> Hope I'm just a worrier here.
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:54:42 -0500
Subject: AHS3504
AHS 3504 will be a great car for someone to get.
Tom at Fourintune did a great job of restoration on the car in 1990.
It went to Italy about 3 years ago for about $130,000 and has been driven on
the road ever since.....so don't pay too much for the car, even though it is
very unique.
Any questions, please contact me directly.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:06:45 EST
Subject: Painting Plastic Parts
Dear All,
I am trying to rebuild my original BJ8 steering wheel, with the typical
cracks in the plastic of the wheel, and repaint (refinish) the plastic piece
of the horn and turn signal surround.
Is there a recommended crack repair material that is better than 2-piece
moldable epoxy to fill and strengthen? (I'll use a leather wrap on the wheel
after repair).
Any comments on the paint type to accomplish an original look to the steering
housing and adjustment housing shroud.
Should plastic (I believe some of it is Cycolac material) be primed first?
Thanks and Regards,
Bob - BJ8-K42790
Milford, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:43:12 -0700
Subject: Fw: engineers and christmas
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 8:32 AM
Subject: engineers and christmas
>
> Engineers Take the Fun out of Christmas... share with children at your
> own
> risk!
>
> There are approximately two billion children (persons under 18) in the
> world. However, since Santa does not visit children of Muslim, Hindu,
> Jewish or Buddhist (except maybe in Japan) religions, this reduces the
> workload for Christmas night to 15% of the total, or 378 million
> (according to the population reference bureau). Assuming an average
> (census) rate of 3.5 children per household, that computes to 108
> million homes - presuming there is at least one good child in each.
>
> Santa has about 31 hours of Christmas to work with, thanks to the
> different time zones and the rotation of the earth, assuming east to
> west (which seems logical). This works out to 967.7 visits per
> second. This is to say that for each Christian household with a good
> child, Santa has around 1/1000th of a second to park the sleigh, hop
> out, jump down the chimney, fill the stocking, distribute the remaining
> presents under the tree, eat whatever snacks have been left for him, get
>
> back up the chimney, jump into the sleigh, and get onto the next house.
> Assuming that each of these 108 million stops is evenly distributed
> around the earth (which, of course, we know to be false, but will accept
>
> for the purposes of our calculations), we are now talking about 0.78
> miles per household. This amounts to a total trip of 75.5 million
> miles, not counting bathroom stops or breaks.
>
> This means Santa's sleigh is moving at
> 650 miles per second--3,000 times the speed of sound. For purposes of
> comparison, the fastest man made vehicle, the Ulysses space probe, moves
>
> at a pokey 27.4 miles per second, and a conventional reindeer can run
> (at best) 15 miles per hour. The payload of the sleigh adds another
> interesting element.
>
> Assuming that each child gets nothing more than a medium sized LEGO
> set (two pounds), the sleigh is carrying over 500 thousands tons, not
> counting Santa himself. On land, a conventional reindeer can pull no
> more than 300 pounds. Even granting that the "flying" reindeer can
> pull 10 times the normal amount, the job can't be done with eight or
> even nine of them---Santa would need 360,000 of them. This increases the
>
> payload, not counting the weight of the sleigh, another 54,000 tons, or
> roughly seven times the weight of the Queen Elizabeth (the ship, not the
>
> monarch). 600,000 tons travelling at 650 miles per second creates
> enormous air resistance - this would heat up the reindeer in the same
> fashion as a spacecraft re-entering the earth's atmosphere.
>
> The lead pair of reindeer would absorb 14.3 quintillion joules of energy
>
> per second each. In short, they would burst into flames almost
> instantaneously, exposing the reindeer behind them and creating
> deafening sonic booms in their wake. The entire reindeer team would be
> vaporized within 4.26 thousandths of a second, or right about the time
> Santa reached the fifth house on his trip. Not that it matters, however,
>
> since Santa, as a result of accelerating from a dead stop to 650 m.p.s.
> in .001 seconds, would be subjected to acceleration forces of 17,000
> g's. A 250 pound Santa (which seems ludicrously slim) would be pinned to
>
> the back of the sleigh by 4,315,015 pounds of force, instantly crushing
> his bones and organs and reducing him to a quivering blob of pink goo.
>
> Therefore, if Santa did once exist, he and his reindeer team are now
> dead.
>
> Merry Christmas, everybody!!!!!
>
> Your local civil engineer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:41:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Painting Plastic Parts
Hi Bob,
I used West System epoxy (avail. through boat supply stores). It is a two part
epoxy which is thin enough to penetrate the cracks and they have a variety of
fillers which allow it to be thickened to whatever consistency is needed to
bring
the surface back to original. I mixed in a black coloring paste made for epoxy
so
no painting was needed.
For painting plastic I use SEM paints which are avail. through automotive paint
shops. They have plastic prep solutions, plastic primers and paints in spray
cans.
The turn signal surround is bakelite which can be restored. I used to have a
step
by step on bringing back the shine to bakelite and can try to get a copy to you
if you need it. It basically involves cleaning, applying black shoe polish and a
light wax finish. Perhaps someone on the list with more bakelite experience will
chime in.
Regards,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 09:49:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Silicone fluid
It is my understanding that silicone fluid does not naturally cause rubber
seals to swell and
therefore swelling agents are added to provide the a desired and beneficial
quality. I have read
that in the early days of DOT 5, they added swelling agents that "over
achieved" their purpose
which caused a whole set of it's own problems (and thereby started the silicone
breaks down seals
opinions). Supposedly, current silicone formulations have successfully fixed
this. Can anyone
confirm if thes modern formulations have in fact got "the mix right"? -John
Subject: Re: Brake pressure switch and silicone brake fluid -- I've seen that
silicone fluid can
cause some of the old Girling brake cylinder parts to swell, thereby causing
problems, but mostly
on 100s. Givent he nature of the swelling, and having taken brake switches
apart, I don't think
this problem would affect their operation. The switches usually "fail" due to
corrosion on the
contacts within. -- Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 11:56:33 -0600
Subject: carbs on bj8
who can I send the carbs to for rebuild on a bj8
what should the cost be on average
--
Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
http://www.tbirdranch.com
Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 10:18:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Painting Plastic Parts
Here's some old posting I saved regarding Bakelite refinishing.
I've had good success in sanding the oxidation off with 600 then 1000 then
1500 wet/dry sand paper. Then use a can of Krylon gloss black paint followed
by a very fine rubbing compound. Looks as good as new and has held up for
two years now. Of course it would help to remove the trafficator from the
steering wheel but I suppose it could be done in car.
--------------------------------
Its clear that bakelite was made in several different
grades; that used around 1950 for interior components of motor cars
(dashboards and steering wheels) seems to age and discolour very little.
On the other hand, if you compare a Bush TV12 television with the later
TV22 model, it is all too clear that the older set had the better
finish. The bakelite of some telephones was even worse and soon came to
look more like pumice stone. Quite possibly the better variants
contained more resin and less filler material. No doubt it was
cost-cutting that reduced the resin content. What a shame then that the
lustre vanishes all too fast. So many artefacts made of bakelite seem to
lose their gloss and end up brown and porous.
It doesnt seem to have anything to do with the age of the item, so why
does this happen and what can be done about it? First, lets look into
the technology. Bakelite is a thermoset plastic, that is a plastic which
starts molten as a liquid but once solidified, does not revert to its
liquid state when heated. In crude terms it consists of a resin (which
has the glossy appearance) plus a bulk filler material, usually wood
flour. The shiny surface you see and admire is the top layer of resin
but this is often very thin. Once rubbed away through atmospheric
action, over-enthusiastic polishing or by scorching in the suns rays,
it is lost and nothing will bring it back. You are then left with a
pitted mixture of resin and wood flour (or asbestos powder) and wood
flour, being very fine sawdust, is not a particularly glossy material.
It is this wood flour that looks brown and porous once exposed. Cleaning
should precede any physical restoration of plastic mouldings. De-grease
first, if necessary, with methylated spirits and a hard cloth. The
restoration techniques you use will depend on whether the top layer of
resin is intact; lets assumefirst that it is. Bakelite and other
plastics which are only lightly soiled should be cleaned with Paste
Polishing No. 5. This is a waxy polish compound, with a mild abrasive,
and extremely effective. It will remove any film of gunge and leave a
smooth, glossy surface. Everyone who sees this cannot believe how good
it is, far better than the metal polish that people used to use to clean
bakelite! PP No. 5 is the stuff the GPO formulated for refurbishing old
bakelite phones to new condition, by the way, and you can buy it either
in bulk from the manufacturer or in small quantities as Baykobrite
from Radiophile Publications, Larkhill, Newport Road, Woodseaves,
STAFFORD, ST20 0NP. The paste should be rubbed on with a hard cloth,
then removed and buffed up with a soft cloth. Alternatively you can use
Solvol Autosol or similar paste (remove with white spirit) to rub down
to the clean plastic underneath, but this always leaves a white powdery
deposit which is difficult to remove from cracks and mouldings. If the
surface is already rough and porous the technique described will not
help. The remedy then is to cut away the discoloured layer with a hard
brush and grinding paste (soap) if you have a buffing machine.
Otherwise use an abrasive polish such as T-Cut or Color-Bak (car paint
restorers) or Bluebell (metal polish).Then let this dry, wipe off the
residue and inspect the bare material exposed. If it has retained its
pigment, polishing with a liquid real wax polish will suffice. Buff it
up to a high gloss and be prepared to repeat this exercise every twelve
months or so. If the bare material is discoloured, you will need to add
new pigment. For black there is an intense black stain in car accessory
shops called Back to Black - use it but try not to get it on your
clothes. Otherwise you can use shoe polish (work it well into the pores
of the bakelite) and buff it off several hours later. Several
applications may be required. Then finish off with liquid wax polish.
There are some people who prefer to avoid the hard work and paint
low-gloss tung oil varnish on badly dulled bakelite (this usually takes
about three coats and gives a very fine finish, not as shiny as
lacquer). You need to use a lint-free cloth to apply the varnish and for
details and crevices, use a tape recorder head cleaning swab. - these
have foam rubber heads instead of spun cotton). This method, which aims
to restore the finish by filling the microscopic pits with a clear
substance, is valid if the bakelite has not lost its colour. If it has
started to go brown, on the other hand, sterner methods are necessary.
Small cracks and chips in the bakelite can be filled with soft furniture
restoration wax, boot polish (my favourite) or car body fillers
(cellulose paste or fibreglass resin types - you can buy these which are
already tinted black, intended for filling cracks in black plastic car
bumpers). Clean breaks can be joined with Superglue (cyanoacrylate) or
Araldite (epoxy resin), though care is needed to prevent smears of glue
showing.
---------------------------
In following the discussion on Finishing Bakelite I have not noticed the
process I have used on a number of occasions with satisfactory results. I
clean the bakelite surface with laquer thinner and then paint the part with
India ink 3 to 5 times allowing the part to dry between each application. I
then buff the surface with a soft cloth. I have found this gives a finish
very close to the original.
------------------------------------
POR sell a putty that is perfect for this use, easy to mold and sans and
I've used it on restoring a 36 old and a 67 mustang steering wheel, results
are excellent. One wheel is going on 5 years and still looks as good as when
I first did it.
--------------------------------
Eastwood has a Kit for exactly this purpose. I haven't used it (instead I
covered my wheel with a black leather lace-on cover) but I would hope other
Listers would give you the benefit of their experience.
Eastwood has a website.
---------------------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:32:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Alignment of internal Overdrive pieces
Ryan,
The bottom-most set of splines can be rotated counterclockwise
(only) with a long screwdriver without tearing down the unit. You
can often "eyeball" it and get the positioning right, but I find it helpful
to test with an old mainshaft to be sure. Remember when refitting
that you must depress the pump plunger in order for the cam to clear.
Your alignment was disturbed when the OD tail flange was turned
without the mainshaft in place, when the OD was separate from the
gearbox.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith@ssmb.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 9:25 AM
Subject: Alignment of internal Overdrive pieces
>
> Healeyers:
>
> I took the overdrive unit off the transmission so I could replace some
> transmission pieces, but did not work on the OD unit itself. Now that I'm
> re-attaching it to the transmission, I'm finding that the internal pieces
> seem to have shifted, causing the unit to not fit tightly with the
> transmission. It stops about 1/4" before completely mating up with the
> transmission.
>
> Upon inspection inside the OD, I can see that there are two splined
sections
> inside that are about 1/8" out of synch with one another. >
> Question: how do I align these two splined plates? My guess is that they
> are held tightly by springs and cannot be simply turned to align with one
> another. I don't have the alignment tool recommended by Bentleys.
>
> Question2: How did they become un-aligned? The OD unit has sat idle for
> about 2 years while the chassis was being fixed. Bizarre.
>
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:21:40 -0500
Subject: Fw: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
I Called the people that are selling it. Here is the info. I bit much for
my pocket.
Allan Casavant
100M
Silverstone
----- Original Message -----
From: Will Stone <will@gregorfisken.com>
To: <allancas@utinet.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
> Dear Allan,
>
> Thank you very much for your enquiry on the above car. It is a super
> presented machine that has been beautifully restored and has a race
> history to include the 12 Hours of Sebring. Please find enclosed more
> details and pictures on the car. We are asking 145,000 pounds though I
> feel that the owner may take a little less.
>
> Look forward to hearing from you,
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Will Stone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vanessa finburgh [mailto:vanessa@gregorfisken.com]
> Sent: 10 December 2001 10:28
> To: Will@gregorfisken.com
> Subject: FW: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
>
>
> GREGOR FISKEN
> Tel. 020 7584 3503
> Fax. 020 7584 7403
> 14 Queens Gate Place Mews
> London
> SW7 5BQ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GMAS Web Server [mailto:automailer@gmas.net]
> Sent: 08 December 2001 22:29
> To: Enquiries
> Subject: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
> You have received the following enquiry via your web site:
>
> Name: Allan Casavant
> Email Address: allancas@utinet.net
> Telephone Num: 910-673-5733 usa
> Vehicle: 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
> Please send more details on this car
>
> They have automtically been sent an email thanking them for their
> enquiry
> and letting them know that you will be contacting them shortly.
>
> GMAS Automailer
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 14:19:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Camshaft Sources
I used a new cam, followers and valve springs from Denis Welch
www.bighealey.co.uk
The grind was their mildest street version, but a shade hotter than
the stock BJ8, I am told. The price was reasonable and 6000 miles
later I am happy with the result.
-Roland
On Sun, 9 Dec 2001 22:25:49 EST, BTARH2O@aol.com wrote:
:: I am about to begin rebuilding the engine in my BJ7 and plan to replace the
:: original cam with a late BJ8 grind. I can recall many posts on engine
:: rebuilding with various modifications from original but I don't recall any
:: mention of specific sources for either new or regrind camshafts. Can anyone
:: recommend a good source? Any help and or advice will be appreciated..
::
:: Bob Tarwater
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:49:07 -0600
Subject: Good Moral to this bit of humor
An old man, a boy and a donkey were going to
> > town. The boy rode on the
> > donkey and the old man walked. As they went
> > along they passed some people
> > who remarked it was a shame the old
> > man was walking and the boy
> > was riding. The man and boy thought
> > maybe the critics were right, so
> > they changed positions.
> >
> > Later, they passed some people that remarked,
> > "What a shame, he makes that little boy walk."
> > They then decided they both
> > would walk! Soon they passed some
> > more people who thought they were
> > stupid to walk when they had a decent
> > donkey to ride. So,
> > they both rode the donkey.
> >
> > Now they passed some people that
> > shamed them by saying how awful to put
> > such a load on a poor donkey.
> > The boy and man said they were
> > probably right, so they decided
> > to carry the donkey. As
> > they crossed the bridge, they lost
> > their grip on the animal and he fell
> > into the river and drowned.
> >
> > The moral of the story? If you try to please
> > everyone, you might as well
> >
> > kiss your ass good-bye.
> >
Merry Christmas to All Healey Owners and Wannabees.
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:10:14 -0500
Subject: Vacuum Pipe
Just got the copper vacuum pipe from Moss for my BJ8 that I was missing. As
it came straight and in about a 3 foot length, does anyone have ideas on
bending it correctly (methods,diagrams,etc.) or getting the unavailable
fittings for the distributor and carb ends? Thanks....
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:13:49 EST
Subject: Re: carbs on bj8
Jim Taylor
1222 Harned Dr.
Bartlesville, OK 74006
918-333-3444
Jim does excellant rebuilds.
Jerry Anderson
Greensboro, NC
BN-4
JH-5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:39:41 -0500
Subject: Fw: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
----- Original Message -----
From: Will Stone <will@gregorfisken.com>
To: <allancas@utinet.net>
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
> Dear Allan,
>
> Thank you very much for your enquiry on the above car. It is a super
> presented machine that has been beautifully restored and has a race
> history to include the 12 Hours of Sebring. Please find enclosed more
> details and pictures on the car. We are asking 145,000 pounds though I
> feel that the owner may take a little less.
>
> Look forward to hearing from you,
>
> Kind regards,
>
> Will Stone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vanessa finburgh [mailto:vanessa@gregorfisken.com]
> Sent: 10 December 2001 10:28
> To: Will@gregorfisken.com
> Subject: FW: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
>
>
> GREGOR FISKEN
> Tel. 020 7584 3503
> Fax. 020 7584 7403
> 14 Queens Gate Place Mews
> London
> SW7 5BQ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GMAS Web Server [mailto:automailer@gmas.net]
> Sent: 08 December 2001 22:29
> To: Enquiries
> Subject: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
> You have received the following enquiry via your web site:
>
> Name: Allan Casavant
> Email Address: allancas@utinet.net
> Telephone Num: 910-673-5733 usa
> Vehicle: 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
> Please send more details on this car
>
> They have automtically been sent an email thanking them for their
> enquiry
> and letting them know that you will be contacting them shortly.
>
> GMAS Automailer
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of 1955 Austin.doc]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:46:09 EST
Subject: Re: Alignment of internal Overdrive pieces
To align the two splined sections in the "bowels" of the O'dr, pull UP on
either of the rectaqngular bars that the operating pistons push against.
THis action will engage the tapered clutch witht he ring int he housing.
Then as you turn the output flange, you'll notice that the two splines turn
at different rates, relative to each other and soon are aligned. Now you can
release the bar.
However, if you turn the O'dr shaft, say the output flange, there is enough
light friction for the splines to become misaligned again. THus, it is
impportant to not turn anything once they're lined up,.
The absolute best way to get htem aligned, and keep them so until the last
second, is to use another transmission output shaft to insert into the O'dr.
When it goes in throught he first spline, it will hit the second, but as you
perform the operation I described at the top, as soonas the splines are
precisely aligned the shaft will slip in the rest of the way.
Now you should do two things. First, leave it in place until you are ready
to slide the O'dr onto your transmission shaft (and DON'T FORGET the cam --
fitted with the lobe towards the rear!!). And second, rotate the shaft so
that the splines at the cam are in the same orientation as those on your
tranny's shaft (and also put your trannyinto top gear so you can turn the
outpus shaft, if necessary, by rotating hte input shaft).
It souln's complicated the first time, but if you understand how everything
really works, it will seem trivially obvious.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:34:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
I thought I should clarify that my pocket change
consists of a couple hundred thousand .... turkish
lira.
Wish I had the money, but I don't. This car sounds
like a keeper...!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Allan Casavant <allancas@utinet.net> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Will Stone <will@gregorfisken.com>
> To: <allancas@utinet.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:45 PM
> Subject: RE: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
>
> > Dear Allan,
> >
> > Thank you very much for your enquiry on the above
> car. It is a super
> > presented machine that has been beautifully
> restored and has a race
> > history to include the 12 Hours of Sebring.
> Please find enclosed more
> > details and pictures on the car. We are asking
> 145,000 pounds though I
> > feel that the owner may take a little less.
> >
> > Look forward to hearing from you,
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Will Stone
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vanessa finburgh
> [mailto:vanessa@gregorfisken.com]
> > Sent: 10 December 2001 10:28
> > To: Will@gregorfisken.com
> > Subject: FW: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey
> 100/S
> >
> >
> >
> > GREGOR FISKEN
> > Tel. 020 7584 3503
> > Fax. 020 7584 7403
> > 14 Queens Gate Place Mews
> > London
> > SW7 5BQ
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: GMAS Web Server [mailto:automailer@gmas.net]
>
> > Sent: 08 December 2001 22:29
> > To: Enquiries
> > Subject: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
> >
> > You have received the following enquiry via your
> web site:
> >
> > Name: Allan Casavant
> > Email Address: allancas@utinet.net
> > Telephone Num: 910-673-5733 usa
> > Vehicle: 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
> > Please send more details on this car
> >
> > They have automtically been sent an email thanking
> them for their
> > enquiry
> > and letting them know that you will be contacting
> them shortly.
> >
> > GMAS Automailer
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type
> application/msword which had a name of 1955
> Austin.doc]
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type
> image/jpeg which had a name of Austin Healey d.jpg]
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type
> image/jpeg which had a name of Austin Healey b.jpg]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:47:02 -0600
Subject: bj8 wiper motor
I am going over the wiper motor for the bj8 that I am working on and
I see that it has 2 terminals plus a ground terminal
I want to bench test this unit
what connections do I have to use to get it to work
what are the two terminals on the end of the motor, other than the
ground terminal
--
Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
http://www.tbirdranch.com
Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:04:30 -0800
Subject: RE: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
Allan,
Tell me if you decide not to make an offer. I'd hate to be a heel and
bid against you. Otherwise best of luck, at that price I'm sure they'll
be beating down the door. Come to think of it, the car may be priced a
little TOO low for my tastes. Imagine one of the more forward members of
the club asking the price! We'd be the laughing stock saying we spent
anything less than 250K pounds! TTFN
Bill W.
P.S. here are a few smileys :) :) :)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Allan Casavant [mailto:allancas@utinet.net]
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 3:40 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Fw: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Will Stone <will@gregorfisken.com>
> To: <allancas@utinet.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 12:45 PM
> Subject: RE: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
>
> > Dear Allan,
> >
> > Thank you very much for your enquiry on the above car. It
> is a super
> > presented machine that has been beautifully restored and has a race
> > history to include the 12 Hours of Sebring. Please find
> enclosed more
> > details and pictures on the car. We are asking 145,000
> pounds though I
> > feel that the owner may take a little less.
> >
> > Look forward to hearing from you,
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Will Stone
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 17:59:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: engineers and christmas
That having been said, and in spite of this cynical and specious report of the
jolly old elf's demise, I can conclusively state that I know why Santa is so
happy all the time.
Because he knows where all the naughty girls live.
Bill Lawrence
frogeye wrote:
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1
>
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 8:32 AM
> Subject: engineers and christmas
>
> >
> > Engineers Take the Fun out of Christmas... share with children at your
> > own
> > risk!
> >
> > There are approximately two billion children (persons under 18) in the
> > world. However, since Santa does not visit children of Muslim, Hindu,
> > Jewish or Buddhist (except maybe in Japan) religions, this reduces the
> > workload for Christmas night to 15% of the total, or 378 million
> > (according to the population reference bureau). Assuming an average
> > (census) rate of 3.5 children per household, that computes to 108
> > million homes - presuming there is at least one good child in each.
> >
> > Santa has about 31 hours of Christmas to work with, thanks to the
> > different time zones and the rotation of the earth, assuming east to
> > west (which seems logical). This works out to 967.7 visits per
> > second. This is to say that for each Christian household with a good
> > child, Santa has around 1/1000th of a second to park the sleigh, hop
> > out, jump down the chimney, fill the stocking, distribute the remaining
> > presents under the tree, eat whatever snacks have been left for him, get
> >
> > back up the chimney, jump into the sleigh, and get onto the next house.
> > Assuming that each of these 108 million stops is evenly distributed
> > around the earth (which, of course, we know to be false, but will accept
> >
> > for the purposes of our calculations), we are now talking about 0.78
> > miles per household. This amounts to a total trip of 75.5 million
> > miles, not counting bathroom stops or breaks.
> >
> > This means Santa's sleigh is moving at
> > 650 miles per second--3,000 times the speed of sound. For purposes of
> > comparison, the fastest man made vehicle, the Ulysses space probe, moves
> >
> > at a pokey 27.4 miles per second, and a conventional reindeer can run
> > (at best) 15 miles per hour. The payload of the sleigh adds another
> > interesting element.
> >
> > Assuming that each child gets nothing more than a medium sized LEGO
> > set (two pounds), the sleigh is carrying over 500 thousands tons, not
> > counting Santa himself. On land, a conventional reindeer can pull no
> > more than 300 pounds. Even granting that the "flying" reindeer can
> > pull 10 times the normal amount, the job can't be done with eight or
> > even nine of them---Santa would need 360,000 of them. This increases the
> >
> > payload, not counting the weight of the sleigh, another 54,000 tons, or
> > roughly seven times the weight of the Queen Elizabeth (the ship, not the
> >
> > monarch). 600,000 tons travelling at 650 miles per second creates
> > enormous air resistance - this would heat up the reindeer in the same
> > fashion as a spacecraft re-entering the earth's atmosphere.
> >
> > The lead pair of reindeer would absorb 14.3 quintillion joules of energy
> >
> > per second each. In short, they would burst into flames almost
> > instantaneously, exposing the reindeer behind them and creating
> > deafening sonic booms in their wake. The entire reindeer team would be
> > vaporized within 4.26 thousandths of a second, or right about the time
> > Santa reached the fifth house on his trip. Not that it matters, however,
> >
> > since Santa, as a result of accelerating from a dead stop to 650 m.p.s.
> > in .001 seconds, would be subjected to acceleration forces of 17,000
> > g's. A 250 pound Santa (which seems ludicrously slim) would be pinned to
> >
> > the back of the sleigh by 4,315,015 pounds of force, instantly crushing
> > his bones and organs and reducing him to a quivering blob of pink goo.
> >
> > Therefore, if Santa did once exist, he and his reindeer team are now
> > dead.
> >
> > Merry Christmas, everybody!!!!!
> >
> > Your local civil engineer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:55:23 -0500
Subject: Re:Parts
I have available an NOS vacuum advance unit for the BN1, a used voltage
regulator for a Sprite, and an excellent (looks almost new) 3000 grille
flash. If interested please contact me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at attbi.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:02:04 -0800
Subject: Re:Bakelite restoration
Thanks to Bill Katz for his Bakelite restoration info.
I just refinished a rather tired (read, brown & pitted) trafficator-
Wet sanded from about 320 to 600 grit, then polished with Maguire's
polish. The result is very pleasing....not too glossy, yet very
presentable. To my eye, looks just right, just a touch of patina from
age. Now, if I can only find a decent uncrazed 100-Six horn push.
Fred Meyer
Longbridge 100 Six
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:45:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Vacuum Pipe
Scot -
You're in luck. British Car specialists has all of
those unavailable fittings new. email david nock or
check out their website at
www.britishcarspecialists.com for more info. David's
great for having all the small annoying things.
As far as bending, it is quite straighforward. Any
picture of an engine compartment will give you a good
idea of how it shoud be set up. Actually, I believe
David nock has restoration pictures which should show
you exactly how that pipe should be set up.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote:
>
> Just got the copper vacuum pipe from Moss for my BJ8
> that I was missing. As
> it came straight and in about a 3 foot length, does
> anyone have ideas on
> bending it correctly (methods,diagrams,etc.) or
> getting the unavailable
> fittings for the distributor and carb ends?
> Thanks....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 18:53:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fluids - which to use? sorry for this old subject :)
Ryan -
> Shocks
YOu can probably use motorcycle fork oil. In general
Id suggest using proper shock oil, however.
> Brake Fluid (new hydraulics -master and slave in
> place)
I swear by Castrol LMA (Dot 4), but some here suggest
silicon. Silicon should work, but be sure to get a
recommendation on brand first.
> transmission,OD
20W/50 is recommended here. For easier shifiting, you
can try redline's MT90 which is designed for old
manual gearboxes and will work with OD. Some listers
swear by this stuff.
> Steering Idler
any high weight oil, or penrite.
>
> Steering box
Same
>
> Differential
Most standard hypoid oils will work here, the key is
making sure you don't ever run low on hypoid oil.
PS you forgot damper oil for the carbs - 20W or
penrite/SU damper oil
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 22:07:15 -0500
Subject: Re: bj8 wiper motor
One is the "park" circuit (terminal 2). When the wiper switch is turned
off, It keeps the motor running until the wipers are in the park position.
once parked, an internal limit switch breaks the circuit.
The other (terminal 1) is wired to the wiper switch .......keeps the circuit
live when wiper switch is on.
To bench test, apply 12 volts between terminals E (ground) and 1. Motor
should run continuously. Remove voltage so that the motor stops in other
than the park position. Apply voltage between E and 2, motor should run
but stop as soon as it reaches the park position.
Good Luck, Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> I am going over the wiper motor for the bj8 that I am working on and
> I see that it has 2 terminals plus a ground terminal
>
> I want to bench test this unit
>
> what connections do I have to use to get it to work
>
> what are the two terminals on the end of the motor, other than the
> ground terminal
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:12:52 -0700
Subject: Re: bj8 wiper motor
Connected to the "E" terminal is a black wire which goes to ground (earth).
Connected to the #1 terminal is a black wire with green tracer that goes to the
wiper switch.
Connected to the #2 terminal is a green wire which goes to the fuse block.
The #2 terminal is hot whenever the ignition switch is on.
The motor operates by grounding the #1 wire through the wiper switch.
The ground wire is connected to a set of contacts under the cover of the wiper
gearbox. Their purpose is to allow the motor to continue to run until the wipers
are in the park position. When the drive gear reaches the proper position it
opens these contacts and the motor stops. The parking position can be adjusted
by rotating the round cover on the gearbox.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
"John R. Draxler" wrote:
> I am going over the wiper motor for the bj8 that I am working on and
> I see that it has 2 terminals plus a ground terminal
>
> I want to bench test this unit
>
> what connections do I have to use to get it to work
>
> what are the two terminals on the end of the motor, other than the
> ground terminal
> --
> Thunderbird Ranch (ph. 715-884-6546 business hours)
> 7158 Hwy. B, Pittsville, WI 54466
> http://www.tbirdranch.com
> Subscribe to my newsletter -- http://www.tbirdranch.com
>
> Have a terrific day and may God guide your footsteps
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:03:03 EST
Subject: top frame spring question
My BJ8 came without the springs for the top frame. I ordered them recently
and now I cqan't seem to determine exactly where the bottom of the spring
attaches. The illistrations in the parts manual look like it goes down into
the space just behind the door frame, but I can't see anything to hook it to.
Somebody give me a hint as to what to look for.
Thanks in advance
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 20:16:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
How much is that in Yankee dollars?
Ron
Allan Casavant wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> Subject: RE: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
>
> > Dear Allan,
> >
> > Thank you very much for your enquiry on the above car. It is a super
> > presented machine that has been beautifully restored and has a race
> > history to include the 12 Hours of Sebring. Please find enclosed more
> > details and pictures on the car. We are asking 145,000 pounds though I
> > feel that the owner may take a little less.
> >
> > Look forward to hearing from you,
> >
> > Kind regards,
> >
> > Will Stone
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:01:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
Now how many lunch do I have to skip?
At $11.00 for lunch only 51 years!
Ron
Bruce Steele wrote:
> At present exchange rates, $207,785
>
> Bruce Steele
> bsteele2@pacbell.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron Rader
> To: Allan Casavant
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 8:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Web Enquiry - 1955 Austin Healey 100/S
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 23:37:27 -0800
Subject: Fw: engineers and christmas
With all your knowledge and education and you still did not know Santa can
stop time. Wow the mind boggles.! :-)
Aloha Andy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
> To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 8:43 AM
> Subject: Fw: engineers and christmas
>
>
> > Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 8:32 AM
> > Subject: engineers and christmas
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Engineers Take the Fun out of Christmas... share with children at your
> > > own
> > > risk!
> > >
> > > There are approximately two billion children (persons under 18) in the
> > > world. However, since Santa does not visit children of Muslim, Hindu,
> > > Jewish or Buddhist (except maybe in Japan) religions, this reduces the
> > > workload for Christmas night to 15% of the total, or 378 million
> > > (according to the population reference bureau). Assuming an average
> > > (census) rate of 3.5 children per household, that computes to 108
> > > million homes - presuming there is at least one good child in each.
> > >
> > > Santa has about 31 hours of Christmas to work with, thanks to the
> > > different time zones and the rotation of the earth, assuming east to
> > > west (which seems logical). This works out to 967.7 visits per
> > > second. This is to say that for each Christian household with a good
> > > child, Santa has around 1/1000th of a second to park the sleigh, hop
> > > out, jump down the chimney, fill the stocking, distribute the
remaining
> > > presents under the tree, eat whatever snacks have been left for him,
get
> > >
> > > back up the chimney, jump into the sleigh, and get onto the next
house.
> > > Assuming that each of these 108 million stops is evenly distributed
> > > around the earth (which, of course, we know to be false, but will
accept
> > >
> > > for the purposes of our calculations), we are now talking about 0.78
> > > miles per household. This amounts to a total trip of 75.5 million
> > > miles, not counting bathroom stops or breaks.
> > >
> > > This means Santa's sleigh is moving at
> > > 650 miles per second--3,000 times the speed of sound. For purposes of
> > > comparison, the fastest man made vehicle, the Ulysses space probe,
moves
> > >
> > > at a pokey 27.4 miles per second, and a conventional reindeer can run
> > > (at best) 15 miles per hour. The payload of the sleigh adds another
> > > interesting element.
> > >
> > > Assuming that each child gets nothing more than a medium sized LEGO
> > > set (two pounds), the sleigh is carrying over 500 thousands tons, not
> > > counting Santa himself. On land, a conventional reindeer can pull no
> > > more than 300 pounds. Even granting that the "flying" reindeer can
> > > pull 10 times the normal amount, the job can't be done with eight or
> > > even nine of them---Santa would need 360,000 of them. This increases
the
> > >
> > > payload, not counting the weight of the sleigh, another 54,000 tons,
or
> > > roughly seven times the weight of the Queen Elizabeth (the ship, not
the
> > >
> > > monarch). 600,000 tons travelling at 650 miles per second creates
> > > enormous air resistance - this would heat up the reindeer in the same
> > > fashion as a spacecraft re-entering the earth's atmosphere.
> > >
> > > The lead pair of reindeer would absorb 14.3 quintillion joules of
energy
> > >
> > > per second each. In short, they would burst into flames almost
> > > instantaneously, exposing the reindeer behind them and creating
> > > deafening sonic booms in their wake. The entire reindeer team would be
> > > vaporized within 4.26 thousandths of a second, or right about the time
> > > Santa reached the fifth house on his trip. Not that it matters,
however,
> > >
> > > since Santa, as a result of accelerating from a dead stop to 650
m.p.s.
> > > in .001 seconds, would be subjected to acceleration forces of 17,000
> > > g's. A 250 pound Santa (which seems ludicrously slim) would be pinned
to
> > >
> > > the back of the sleigh by 4,315,015 pounds of force, instantly
crushing
> > > his bones and organs and reducing him to a quivering blob of pink goo.
> > >
> > > Therefore, if Santa did once exist, he and his reindeer team are now
> > > dead.
> > >
> > > Merry Christmas, everybody!!!!!
> > >
> > > Your local civil engineer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Wilson" <J.Wilson at mgt.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:07:25 -0000
Subject: Haynes Manual Reprinted
For Information:
The Haynes manual for the Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 has been
reprinted. I've seen used copies sell for upwards of $50+ on e-bay,
so this may be a useful means for getting one.
The manuals do not appear to be sold in book stores, and they do not
seem to be shown on the web site either. I bought one through their
UK Spring/Summer catalogue for #25. A call to the US distributor
may unearth them in the US too. The ISBN is 0 900550 49 X, and is
the same as for the original. The manual appears to be exactly the
same as the older version.
This is in their "Haynes Classic Reprints" series that includes other
manuals for Triumphs, MGAs, 1950-60s' Jaguars and 1960-70s'
BMWs.
Hope this helps.
James.
Greetings from bonny Scotland;
Sunrise: 8:37 am
Sunset: 3:43 pm
High: 37 F
Low: 25 F
But its a CLEAR day!!!!!
Dr. James M. Wilson
Management Studies Department
West Quadrangle, Glibert Scott Building
Glasgow University
University Avenue
Glasgow G12 8QQ.
Scotland, U. K.
Phone: (44) (0)141 330 5041
Fax: (44) (0)141 330 5669
e-mail: j.wilson@mgt.gla.ac.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:13:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Reprinted
James:
I found the manual today on the UK version of the Haynes website. It wasn't
on the US version, yet. The cost including shipping to the Eastern US was
US $43.04 (UK#30)
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Wilson" <J.Wilson@mgt.gla.ac.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 7:07 AM
Subject: Haynes Manual Reprinted
>
> For Information:
>
> The Haynes manual for the Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 has been
> reprinted. I've seen used copies sell for upwards of $50+ on e-bay,
> so this may be a useful means for getting one.
>
> The manuals do not appear to be sold in book stores, and they do not
> seem to be shown on the web site either. I bought one through their
> UK Spring/Summer catalogue for #25. A call to the US distributor
> may unearth them in the US too. The ISBN is 0 900550 49 X, and is
> the same as for the original. The manual appears to be exactly the
> same as the older version.
>
> This is in their "Haynes Classic Reprints" series that includes other
> manuals for Triumphs, MGAs, 1950-60s' Jaguars and 1960-70s'
> BMWs.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> James.
>
> Greetings from bonny Scotland;
> Sunrise: 8:37 am
> Sunset: 3:43 pm
> High: 37 F
> Low: 25 F
> But its a CLEAR day!!!!!
> Dr. James M. Wilson
> Management Studies Department
> West Quadrangle, Glibert Scott Building
> Glasgow University
> University Avenue
> Glasgow G12 8QQ.
> Scotland, U. K.
>
>
> Phone: (44) (0)141 330 5041
> Fax: (44) (0)141 330 5669
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 14:44:28 -0500
Subject: Shift handle / rod BJ7 - is it chromed all the way down?
I've pulled my shifting handle / rod. It is the thing that is threaded on
the top for the shift knob you hold when you shift.
The top part is chromed, but the large ball and the ball at the bottom is
not chromed. I think that time and grime might have worn the chrome off the
bottom half of it. (It was pretty mucked up from years of dirt & debris
grinding around).
Should the whole thing be chromed? My guess is that it would help make the
shifting smoother with the socket surfaces being smooth.
Also, what kind of grease do people use here - something that will not melt
and run out too quickly? (Penrite, whatever that is?)
Ryan Ledwith
Salomon Brothers Realty Corp.
(212) 816-8299 FAX
(212) 816-8253 phone
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 16:45:29 -0500
Subject: Test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 16:55:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Reprinted
I am restoring a BN 2 and have a hard bound Austin-Healey Service Manual
for a BN 1. Is there much difference between this one and the BN 2 issue.
If so, where can I obtain one [or trade]. Thanks.
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 17:31:27 EST
Subject: Re: Shift handle / rod BJ7 - is it chromed all the way down?
You do not want any chrome on the ball ends of the gear lever otherwise you
will not be able to fit the lever into the hole in the transmission after
there is a layer of chrome on it.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 16:39:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Reprinted
If you're interested in reprints of the factory manuals, the Austin-Healey
Club USA has them available as follows:
Workshop Manual for Austin-Healey 100. This is a reprint of the original
factory Workshop Manual, Publication No. 97H 997D.
# 100 Manual $42.00
Workshop Manual for Austin-Healey 100-6 & 3000. This is a reprint of the
original factory Workshop Manual, Part No. 1179H.
# 100-6/3000 Manual $42.00
Contact Jerry Wall (jerryw@healey.org) to order.
Cheers,
Reid
On Tue, 11 Dec 2001 12:13:34 -0500, John W. Cope wrote:
James:
I found the manual today on the UK version of the Haynes website. It wasn't
on the US version, yet. The cost including shipping to the Eastern US was
US $43.04 (UK#30)
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Wilson" <J.Wilson@mgt.gla.ac.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 7:07 AM
Subject: Haynes Manual Reprinted
>
> For Information:
>
> The Haynes manual for the Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 has been
> reprinted. I've seen used copies sell for upwards of $50+ on e-bay,
> so this may be a useful means for getting one.
>
> The manuals do not appear to be sold in book stores, and they do not
> seem to be shown on the web site either. I bought one through their
> UK Spring/Summer catalogue for #25. A call to the US distributor
> may unearth them in the US too. The ISBN is 0 900550 49 X, and is
> the same as for the original. The manual appears to be exactly the
> same as the older version.
>
> This is in their "Haynes Classic Reprints" series that includes other
> manuals for Triumphs, MGAs, 1950-60s' Jaguars and 1960-70s'
> BMWs.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> James.
>
> Greetings from bonny Scotland;
> Sunrise: 8:37 am
> Sunset: 3:43 pm
> High: 37 F
> Low: 25 F
> But its a CLEAR day!!!!!
> Dr. James M. Wilson
> Management Studies Department
> West Quadrangle, Glibert Scott Building
> Glasgow University
> University Avenue
> Glasgow G12 8QQ.
> Scotland, U. K.
>
>
> Phone: (44) (0)141 330 5041
> Fax: (44) (0)141 330 5669
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:00:49 EST
Subject: Automobile magazine 100 article
FYI. Just got this month's Automobile magazine in the mail. Great article
and photographs on a nice 100 restoration by Tom Kovacs.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 20:25:58 -0600
Subject: No Healey Content
"The Taliban Christmas" written by my brother, Chuck Yarber
Don
BN7
Taliban Christmas
Twas the night before Ramadan and deep in the cave
Bin Ladin was fearful it might be his grave.
His troops lay around him as quiet as mice
scratching their nuts though their heads had the lice.
They shivered and shook as the bombs fell.
They'd never imagined this kind of hell.
They wanted to run. There was no place to hide.
Their spirits were broken as well as their pride.
They live like worms under the ground.
Our heat seekers are searching, they'll soon be found.
Their leader has swore they'd fight til they died.
They surrender by thousands, Bin Ladin had lied.
He has no more courage than the rest of his men.
Soon he will pay for his terrible sin.
Bush said Bin Ladin would pay with his balls.
They'll be stuffed and mounted on the Pentagon walls.
__________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:27:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Reprinted
In message <6552583.1008117577768.JavaMail.imail@doodle.excite.com>,
Reid Trummel <AHCUSA@excite.com> writes
>
>If you're interested in reprints of the factory manuals, the Austin-Healey
>Club USA has them available as follows:
>
>Workshop Manual for Austin-Healey 100. This is a reprint of the original
>factory Workshop Manual, Publication No. 97H 997D.
># 100 Manual $42.00
>
>Workshop Manual for Austin-Healey 100-6 & 3000. This is a reprint of the
>original factory Workshop Manual, Part No. 1179H.
># 100-6/3000 Manual $42.00
>
>Contact Jerry Wall (jerryw@healey.org) to order.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid
>
Anyone in the UK might like to know that both of these manuals are
available from the Austin Healey Club bookshop. Follow the Bookshop link
on the site (address below).
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:18:48 EST
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Reprinted
Bob:
I'm restoring a BN1 and I have the BN2 Supplement for that manual. I have no
need for the supplement (and I'm told that it's not rare), so it's yours if
you want it. Send me your address and I'll drop it in the mail.
Steve
1954 BN1 Brutus
Up on Blocks in CA
Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com writes:
<< I am restoring a BN 2 and have a hard bound Austin-Healey Service Manual
for a BN 1. Is there much difference between this one and the BN 2 issue.
If so, where can I obtain one [or trade]. Thanks. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:19:23 -0600
Subject: seat pans
Anybody have a used, but still in decent shape, set of seat pans they would
like to get rid of.. Mine are shot, completely rusted. To the point of
falling apart and getting rust all over my nice carpet.. ;-) I'd like to
start working on the interior this winter. I tried to get the set that was
on ebay, but I got outbid on them,(only because my system hung up and I
couldn't rebid in time... rats..). Thanks,
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:56:57 -0600
Subject: Healey trans parts needed
Hi Listers, need a little help here, please. The tranny is a side shift in
a tri-carb BT7 Mk2. We need a lay gear and a 1st gear in good condition.
Our original 1st gear hub is probably still useable but the entire 1st gear
assembly is what we are really looking for. Any help out there?? Maybe
someone has an extra complete tranny for sale?? Side shift would be
preferred but center shift would do. Please get back to me if you can help
and thanks a lot!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 16:07:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Bj8 Distributors
Michael
>
I am a little uneasy about your paragraph below so I had added further
down an extract from Champion Technical Manual.
The vacuum advance is important for economy but if not operating
correctly can also upset engine temperatures (Mixture still burning when
the exhaust valves open) and in particular spark plug tip temperatures
where fouling could occur.
>As far as I can figure the only purpose of the vacuum advance is to
>advance the spark timing on deceleration to limit backfiring so in as
>far as performance is concerned it has no effect. Some one on the list
>may be able to suggest that it has another purpose.
*********************
Economic Running
For the common driving mode at 30-40 mph the throttle valve Is only
partially open and economic running can be achieved by weakening the
fuel/air mixture. However power is lost under these circumstances as the
weaker mixture takes longer to burn. To compensate for this effect the
ignition may be advanced so that combustion ends at the same time and so
gives the same power with the weaker mixture.
The Vacuum Advance unit is a load sensitive economy device, which causes
this to happen. The mechanism consists of a spring-loaded diaphragm, one
side of which is open to atmosphere while the other side is connected to
the carburettor near the throttle valve. The diaphragm is thus subjected
to the Inlet vacuum. At idle speed, although the inlet vacuum is high,
the throttle valve is not opened wide enough to expose the vacuum
tapping. The diaphragm is not deflected because no pressure differential
exists across it. On the other hand during a light load condition in
which the inlet vacuum is high and the valve is open wide enough, the
full vacuum to be applied to the diaphragm.
The diaphragm moves against the pressure of the return spring and
rotates the breaker plate causing the ignition to be advanced. For heavy
load conditions, the throttle is wide open but the inlet vacuum is low.
Consequently, the ignition timing depends on centrifugal advance only.
The vacuum advance characteristic depends on the spring rating and on
the length of the internal spacer.
All the best
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 11:40:51 EST
Subject: Re: Automobile magazine 100 article
In a message dated 12/11/01 6:03:12 PM, HealeyRic2@aol.com writes:
<< FYI. Just got this month's Automobile magazine in the mail. Great article
and photographs on a nice 100 restoration by Tom Kovacs.
Rick >>
Congratulations to Tom Kovacs for a lovely restoration, and to whomever made
the arrangements to get this car to the attention of Automobile folks. Best
Healey coverage we've seen in quite awhile in a major magazine. Gorgeous
pictures and nice article (and that comes from an editor/publisher who uses
Automobile as one of his benchmarks).
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:07:21 +0100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?B?Q291cOk=?=
Dear Healey Lovers,
I just bought An Austin Healey 100/4 Coupe. As I am about to start the
restoration of this car I am currently gathering all possible info on this
car. The story of the car is the following : 6 cars were exported new to
Belgium carrossier d'Ieteren in 1954 an converted to fixed head coupi for a
GT class race in Spa Francorchamps. There are 2 cars left : mine and
another one which is still actively racing.
Does anyone knows more about Healey Coupis?
Thanks for completing the history of these fascinating cars,
Bruno Verstraete
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 10:36:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Coup=E9?=
On Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:07:21 +0100, Bruno Verstraete wrote:
<< Dear Healey Lovers, I just bought An Austin Healey 100/4 Coupe. As I am
about to start the restoration of this car I am currently gathering all
possible info on this car. The story of the car is the following: 6 cars
were exported new to Belgium carrossier d'Ieteren in 1954 an converted to
fixed head coupi for a GT class race in Spa Francorchamps. There are 2 cars
left : mine and another one which is still actively racing. Does anyone
knows more about Healey Coupis? Thanks for completing the history of these
fascinating cars, Bruno Verstraete >>
Bruno,
I'm not familiar with the six cars you mention, but Arthur Carter owns one
of the two original factory (Donald Healey Motor Company) coupes, and the
other was owned by David Matthews, also of England. That car was, I
understand, sold to Australia several years ago and I don't know the new
owner's name.
In any case perhaps someone in the UK club could put you in touch with
Carter and/or Matthews if that's of interest.
Sounds like a great project you have there. Any photos you could share?
(You can't attach photos to email sent to this Mail List, so please use my
address of <reidt@healey.org> if you are able to email some photos).
Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 15:03:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey trans parts needed
jack,
these are usually the bad parts in most used transmissions. unless you need
spares on all the other tranny parts, buying a used tranny hoping for a good
laygear and 1st gear is normally a selfdefeating proposition.
happy healeying,
jerry
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
>
>
> Hi Listers, need a little help here, please. The tranny is a side shift in
> a tri-carb BT7 Mk2. We need a lay gear and a 1st gear in good condition.
> Our original 1st gear hub is probably still useable but the entire 1st gear
> assembly is what we are really looking for. Any help out there?? Maybe
> someone has an extra complete tranny for sale?? Side shift would be
> preferred but center shift would do. Please get back to me if you can help
> and thanks a lot!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders at inetmail.att.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 16:18:28 -0600
Subject: oil leak at engine front
I had noticed a spray of oil on the underside of my hood just behind the fan
line and I wanted to try and repair this. I thought that it was probably
the front seal at the timing chain cover because of the spray on the
underside of the water pump and on the generator. When I got beneath the
car and look from below there appeared to be no oil below the level of the
crank and on the backside of the balancer. Where could this black deposit
be coming from? There appears to be more on the underside of the water pump
than anywere else. I also noticed the smallest of drips from the water pump
bleed hole. I replaced the pump last year and have never added fluid to the
system. Does anyone on the list have a suggestion? Replys off the list
would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve Sanders 61BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:10:29 -0600
Subject: Re: oil leak at engine front
Steve Sanders wrote:
> I had noticed a spray of oil on the underside of my hood just behind the fan
> line and I wanted to try and repair this. I also noticed the smallest of
> drips from the water pump bleed hole. I replaced the pump last year and have
> never added fluid to the system.
You answered your own question, Steve, if it is really anti-freeze instead of
oil. It doesn't take much anti-freeze to make a mess under the hood. My guess
would be a new water pump under your Christmas tree this year.
All those things are inside is some packing and a bearing. The usual big car
parts guys get them made in Carjackistan or somewhere and the quality suffers.
I'd look around the neighborhood for a quality rebuilder or look in Hemmings
Motor News under services.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:23:35 +1100
Subject: Timmy Mayer
Greetings
This may seem like a silly question but I am trying to track down a little
information on the early racing career of an American named Timmy Mayer.
I understand that he raced an Austin-Healey during the later 1950s and came
in fourth in the SCCA rankings. He then moved on to Cooper Formula Junior.
In 1962 he ran in the US Grand Prix and raced in Europe in 1963.
In late 1963 he and his brother Teddy teamed up with Bruce Mclaren and came
out to Australian and New Zealand for the 1964 Tasman Cup and met with some
success. Sadly Timmy was killed during practice at Longford, Tasmania in
February of that year.
I know quite a bit about the chap except would like to know more about his
Austin-Healey days.
Anyone know?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:30:33 -0400
Subject: heater control panel
Does anyone have a good way to replace the white lettering on the heater
control panel. Mine is starting to wear but the panel is still in good shape.
Dean BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:37:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Healey trans parts needed
Jack,
For the first gear outter ring, I was able to get a new one from
AH Spares a few years back. I don't know if they still have them
or if they have the one for your gear box. Otherwise
you might try Sports and Classics (203)655-8731. I was able to
get some NOS gears from him several years ago.
AH Spares and several of the other UK suppliers offer a rebuilt
laygear. They cut off first gear and weld on a new one. I have
no direct experience with this procedure and have heard mixed results
from others on this list. That would be your other option
if you cannot find an NOS laygear.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Brashear, Jack, N
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:57 AM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: Healey trans parts needed
Hi Listers, need a little help here, please. The tranny is a side shift in
a tri-carb BT7 Mk2. We need a lay gear and a 1st gear in good condition.
Our original 1st gear hub is probably still useable but the entire 1st gear
assembly is what we are really looking for. Any help out there?? Maybe
someone has an extra complete tranny for sale?? Side shift would be
preferred but center shift would do. Please get back to me if you can help
and thanks a lot!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 10:58:45 +1100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?RE=3A_Coup=E9?=
G'day
The history of the Austin-Healey Coupes is a very interesting one.
I suppose it would be correct to say that there were four coupes in total.
One car ONX 113 was fitted with 100S running gear and is in the UK. I say
quite openly that I think this car is just drop dead gorgeous and I would
sell my left one to have it. No make that both as neither are now doing
anything after I was snipped.
The next was OAC 1 that stated life as a four cylinder and was subsequently
fitted with an early six cylinder for testing purpose about the same time as
my BN3/1 was at the DHMC. This car actually came up for sale just a month
after I bought the BN3 back in 1974 and I missed it. It was subsequently
purchased and made into a roadster. The coupe panels were sold to Australia
but not the car. The next owner of the car was Dave Matthews who sold it in
the UK a few years back. The coupe panels have since been reunited with the
car and I suspect that it is now fully restored.
The next two cars were further design exercises quite late in the life of
the Austin-Healey marque. Both the DHMC and BMC built a car with the DHMC
one built on an ex Sebring 3000 and the BMC car on a standard Mk3 (I think
it was a Mk3 but it may have been a Mk2)
Both of the latter cars were owned by the same guy who if my memory is right
lived or lives on the Isle of Wright. he offered both for sale back in the
1970s and after I put in a bid he withdrew them for sale. As far as I know
he still owns both cars. I think the DHMC is a stunning looking motor car.
Any other coupes, of which there are quite a few around the world have been
locally made.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Reid Trummel [mailto:AHCUSA@excite.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 5:36 AM
To: Bruno Verstraete; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Coupi
On Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:07:21 +0100, Bruno Verstraete wrote:
<< Dear Healey Lovers, I just bought An Austin Healey 100/4 Coupe. As I am
about to start the restoration of this car I am currently gathering all
possible info on this car. The story of the car is the following: 6 cars
were exported new to Belgium carrossier d'Ieteren in 1954 an converted to
fixed head coupi for a GT class race in Spa Francorchamps. There are 2 cars
left : mine and another one which is still actively racing. Does anyone
knows more about Healey Coupis? Thanks for completing the history of these
fascinating cars, Bruno Verstraete >>
Bruno,
I'm not familiar with the six cars you mention, but Arthur Carter owns one
of the two original factory (Donald Healey Motor Company) coupes, and the
other was owned by David Matthews, also of England. That car was, I
understand, sold to Australia several years ago and I don't know the new
owner's name.
In any case perhaps someone in the UK club could put you in touch with
Carter and/or Matthews if that's of interest.
Sounds like a great project you have there. Any photos you could share?
(You can't attach photos to email sent to this Mail List, so please use my
address of <reidt@healey.org> if you are able to email some photos).
Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 19:41:53 -0500
Subject: Re: heater control panel
Hi, Dean -
No suggestion from me on how to replace the lettering on your original
panel, but pretty good reproductions of the panel and knobs are available at
reasonable prices. You would have to take the panel out anyway, so I
recommend you buy a replacement and spray it with clear paint to protect the
lettering in the future. That's what I did some time ago, and it's holding
up just fine. I took this approach after replacing the knobs and having the
lettering flake off again in a few years.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dht@erols.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 5:30 PM
Subject: heater control panel
>
> Does anyone have a good way to replace the white lettering on the heater
> control panel. Mine is starting to wear but the panel is still in good
shape.
>
> Dean BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 19:46:54 EST
Subject: Re: heater control panel
In a message dated 12/12/01 3:32:40 PM, dht@erols.com writes:
<< Does anyone have a good way to replace the white lettering on the heater
control panel. Mine is starting to wear but the panel is still in good shape.
Dean BJ8 >>
Been there, discussed that --
consensus is, buy a new one -- they're very inexpensive and the quality of
the reproduction is excellent.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 22:24:52 -0500
Subject: alternator
Is there anyone who can give me info on alternators (and brackets) for my
bj8? Your assistance would be aprreceiacated.
Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 23:57:19 EST
Subject: Big Screen Healey Sighting
Saw a white Healey zip by the screen on a preview of a movie coming out
tomorrow, 12/14, called the Royal Tenenbaums -a comedy with Gene Hackman,
Angelica Houston, Danny Glover.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dave Nelson" <danelson at socket.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 00:06:41 -0600
Subject: Clutch 63 AH 3000
Hello, I am new to the AHCUSA and this mail list.
We have a '63 -3000 that we very much enjoy driving.
Recently the clutch stopped operating properly.
There is no slippage on engagement and very minor chatter on engagement.
The problem is you can let the clutch petal all the way up and then count to
three before the clutch engages.
This problem developed while the car was parked for a few weeks.
Has any one else had this problem or have any ideas what to look for?
Dave Nelson
Willow Springs, MO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 22:14:57 -0800
Subject: alternator
Listers:
Seems to me I saw a thread about putting a alternator inside a Lucas generator
casing.
Is this possible?
What kind of alternator and what kind of generator?
Thanks
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 22:24:27 -0800
Subject: Office Christmas Party
Subject: Office Christmas Party
December 1st, 2001
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
I'm happy to inform you that the company Christmas Party will take
Place on December 23rd at Luigi's Open Pit Barbecue. There will be
lots of spiked eggnog and a small band playing traditional carols.
Feel free to sing along. And don't be surprised if our CEO shows up
dressed as Santa Claus to light the Christmas tree! Exchange of gifts
among employees can be done at that time; however, no gift should
be over $10.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Patty Lewis
Human Resources Director
*************************************************
December 2nd
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
In no way was yesterday's memo intended to exclude our Jewish
employees. We recognize that Hanukkah is an important holiday
that often coincides with Christmas (though unfortunately not this
year). However, from now on we're calling it our "Holiday Party."
The same policy applies to employees who are celebrating Kwanzaa
at this time. There will be no Christmas tree and no Christmas carols
sung and Luigi's has promised to identify the Pork barbecue for our
Jewish friends.
Happy Holidays to you and your family.
Patty Lewis
Human Resources Director
*********************************************************
December 3rd
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
Regarding the anonymous note I received from a member of Alcoholics
Anonymous requesting a non-drinking table, I'm happy to accommodate
this request, but, don't forget, if I put a sign on the table that reads,
"AA Only," you won't be anonymous anymore. In addition, forget about the
gifts exchange. No gifts will be allowed since the union management feel
that $10 is too much money.
Patty Lewis
Human Researchers Director
*****************************************************
December 7th
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
I've arranged for members of Overeaters Anonymous to sit farthest
>From the dessert buffet and pregnant women closest to the rest rooms.
Gays are allowed to sit with each other. Lesbians do not have to sit with
the gay men; each will have their table. Yes, there will be a flower
arrangement for the gay men's table. Happy now?
Patty Lewis
Human Racehorses Director
**********************************************************
December 9th
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
People, people! Nothing sinister was intended by wanting our CEO to
Play Santa Claus! Even if the anagram of "Santa" does happen to be
"Satan," there is no evil connotation to our own "little man in a red suit."
Patty Lewis
Human Ratraces
***********************************************
December 10th
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
Vegetarians. I've had it with you people!! We're going to hold this
Party at Luigi's Open Pit whether you like it or not, you can just sit
at the table farthest from the "grill of death," as you put it, and you'll get
salad bar only, including hydroponic tomatoes. But, you know, tomatoes
have feelings, too. They scream when you slice them. I've heard them
scream. I'm hearing them right now... Ha!
I hope you all have a rotten holiday!
Drive drunk and die, you hear me?
The Bitch from Hell
***************************************************
December 14th
TO: ALL EMPLOYEES
I'm sure I speak for all of us in wishing Patty Lewis a speedy
Recovery from her stress related illness. I'll continue to forward
your cards to her at the sanitarium. In the meantime, management
has decided to cancel our Holiday Party and give everyone the afternoon
of the 23rd off with full pay.
Happy Holidays!
Terri Bishop
Acting Human Resources Director
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 06:04:20 EST
Subject: Re: alternator
In a message dated 12/13/01 1:10:54 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
> Seems to me I saw a thread about putting a alternator inside a Lucas
> generator
> casing.
> Is this possible
I explored putting a motorcycle alternator inside my genny case. Aside from
not finding one that would fit, I think that heat buildup would have been a
problem. I wound up buying a 70 amp alternator made by
Prestolite/Leece-Neville. The best thing about it is that the sheeve
(pully) is two-piece and can be shimmed to accept my wide 3/8" belt, thus
eliminating the need to change the waterpump and crank pulleys. It is a
wonderful unit, costs $70.00. Go the the Prestolite website...
Best---Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 05:09:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch 63 AH 3000
dave,
it sounds like it might be time for some clutch hydraulic attention. rebuild
the master, slave cylinder and replace the slave hose.
happy healeying,
jerry
Dave Nelson wrote:
>
>
> Hello, I am new to the AHCUSA and this mail list.
> We have a '63 -3000 that we very much enjoy driving.
>
> Recently the clutch stopped operating properly.
> There is no slippage on engagement and very minor chatter on engagement.
> The problem is you can let the clutch petal all the way up and then count to
> three before the clutch engages.
> This problem developed while the car was parked for a few weeks.
> Has any one else had this problem or have any ideas what to look for?
>
> Dave Nelson
> Willow Springs, MO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 06:26:03 -0500
Subject: Re: alternator
Dave,
I converted to an alternator last year on my BJ8. Alan Hendrix of Hendrix
Wire Wheels of
Greensboro NC did the work. If you go to his web page he has a kit for
sale. Also, he would give
you technical advice my phone . His shop only works on Healeys, and he is
the VP of the Triad Healey club.
www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Alex
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 05:57:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Clutch 63 AH 3000
Dave,
Welcome to the list--it is a fount of knowledge. Sounds like a master or
slave cylinder--most likely crud in the slave keeping it from returning
properly when foot is let up--the moisture in the system collects on the low
side. Slaves are easy to rebuild. Kit is $5 www.mossmotors.com. Remove by
removing trans tunnel first. Seats, carpet, shift know, trans tunnel.
Don't sand or hone the cylinder as it is aluminum and has a hardened bore
surface. You can bleed the system just by letting fluid drain out of it
until it runs clear. Only use Castrol LMA--no others.
I did all this recently learning by doing and it was obvious except for the
bore thing which I learned on this list.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Dave Nelson" <danelson@socket.net>
> Reply-To: "Dave Nelson" <danelson@socket.net>
> Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 00:06:41 -0600
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Clutch 63 AH 3000
>
>
> Hello, I am new to the AHCUSA and this mail list.
> We have a '63 -3000 that we very much enjoy driving.
>
> Recently the clutch stopped operating properly.
> There is no slippage on engagement and very minor chatter on engagement.
> The problem is you can let the clutch petal all the way up and then count to
> three before the clutch engages.
> This problem developed while the car was parked for a few weeks.
> Has any one else had this problem or have any ideas what to look for?
>
> Dave Nelson
> Willow Springs, MO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 09:50:12 -0500
Subject: Re: alternator
Hi, Dave -
Allen Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro has the kits. Check his
website at http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:24 PM
Subject: alternator
>
> Is there anyone who can give me info on alternators (and brackets) for my
> bj8? Your assistance would be aprreceiacated.
> Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 11:02:03 EST
Subject: Re: Clutch 63 AH 3000
The clutch flex hose colapses on the inside and restricts the fluid return.
Install a new hose and flush the system with Girling fluid and all will be
well again.
*********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:33:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: oil leak at engine front
Steve,
I would not be too suprised if the pump is bad.
I replaced my water pump 18 months ago and when
tearing down the engine a few months back, for a
complete rebuild, I too found it to be leaking. I
replaced everything else ($$$), but I was actually
hoping to reuse the pump. I was quite disappointed in
the life of the pump and the vendors response.
Dean BN7 (New engine on the stand waiting for some
time off to get it in the car)
There appears to be more on the
> underside of the water pump
> than anywere else. I also noticed the smallest of
> drips from the water pump
> bleed hole. I replaced the pump last year and have
> never added fluid to the
> system.
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 08:49:34 -0800
Subject: Re-use of intake/exhaust manif gaskets?
Hello Listers,
Can the new mettallic style gaskets between the head and the intake/exhaust
manifolds and between the exh manifold and exhaust pipes be re-used with any
hope of not leaking. Mine are a couple of months old and I need to take the
intake manifold off again. Appreciate experience-based guidance. TIA.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 11:51:56 EST
Subject: Re: Re-use of intake/exhaust manif gaskets?
The manifold to head gasket may be able to be re used. The gaskets between
the manifolds will be able to be resued. The manifold to pipe gaskets will
NOT be able to be re used they will leak .
***************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 11:58:33 EST
Subject: Re: oil leak at engine front
If a used water pump sits off the car far a long period of time DRY it may
start to leak after re installed on the engine. I always recomend a new water
on all engine rebuilds no matter how long it has been on the engine.
What happens when it is off the engine sitting is the carbon seal dries out
and sometimes leak when re installed.
***************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Barry J Hammel <BlueSky at execpc.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 12:16:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Clutch 63 AH 3000
Dave
I just did a slave cylinder rebuld on my '62 BJ7. You can access the cylinder
from below - just two bolts and the linkage to shaft. Thanks to the "leaky
characteristics" these bolts should be nicely rust free. You have to get the
wrenches "up in there" for one of them - but it saves all the interior work.
> . Slaves are easy to rebuild. Kit is $5 www.mossmotors.com. Remove by
> removing trans tunnel first. Seats, carpet, shift know, trans tunnel.
>
Have fun, Barry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 15:00:01 -0500
Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
This afternoon while doing last minute Christmas shopping I found a new Healey
Hot Wheel -- same as the black and white one found earlier this year but the
colors are red over white -- Collector No. 167. the windscreen is laid back and
the body is a BN1 or BN2 but with the blower on top of the engine in a bonnet
cutout. Detailing isn't that great, but it IS a Healey and that alone makes it
good.
If you are interested, I found this in the Toddlers section at the cash
register while getting a Clifford shirt for my grandson.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 15:56:09 -0500
Subject: brake calipers
Need some advice listers.
The other day I drug out a pair of calipers removed long ago from a very rusty
BJ8. Don't really need them right now, but thought I would check them out.
All 4 pistons are seized. They did work fine 25 years ago before the car was
parted out. I have added Liquid Wrench numerous times over the last several
day. Yesterday I tried air up to 100 pounds - nothing. I also drove them in
a bit with a drift - still nothing. I even managed to wring off the bleed
screws on both.
Anything I can do with them now? Are they destined for Parts Bin Heaven? (no
relation to Olsama Bin Laden)
All thoughts appreciated.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:07:01 EST
Subject: List of Hot Wheels Healeys
List of Hot Wheels currently produced:
Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Silver 2000 card
Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Grey 2000 card
Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Silver 2001 card
Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Grey 2001 card
Item 167 Red over White 2001 card
Gift Pack #50078 City Service: Hot Mid Blue with decals "Planet Hot Wheels
Office of the Mayor" comes with 4 other cars
The last two are currently available at Wal Mart, K-Mart, Walgreens, Pep
Boys, And where ever Hot Wheels are sold. There is also a gentleman on the
Internet that takes the blower off and will paint to order including flames
or ????
In Europe Charles Matthews has a good supply of most of these.
Good hunting...
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:08:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
RE: Hot Wheels HealeysOk you beat me. I bought the only two they had. Got an
even dozen of the other ones and then stopped. I guess that means wer both are
pathetic.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Browning David
To: 'healey6.com' ; Healey List
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 3:15 PM
Subject: RE: Hot Wheels Healeys
I have about 7-8 of the new ones so far. I'm pathetic! I bought 3 last
night!
-----Original Message-----
From: healey6.com [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 3:00 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
This afternoon while doing last minute Christmas shopping I found a new
Healey Hot Wheel -- same as the black and white one found earlier this year but
the colors are red over white -- Collector No. 167. the windscreen is laid back
and the body is a BN1 or BN2 but with the blower on top of the engine in a
bonnet cutout. Detailing isn't that great, but it IS a Healey and that alone
makes it good.
If you are interested, I found this in the Toddlers section at the cash
register while getting a Clifford shirt for my grandson.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ZManDino at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:13:48 EST
Subject: What is Life? (owner of a BN7)
This is a good guide for the year 2002.
What is Life?
Life is a challenge ... meet it.
Life is a gift ... accept it.
Life is an adventure ... dare it.
Life is a sorrow ... overcome it.
Life is a tragedy ... face it.
Life is a duty ... perform it.
Life is a game ... play it.
Life is a mystery ... unfold it.
Life is a song ... sing it.
Life is an opportunity ... take it.
Life is a journey ... complete it.
Life is a promise ... fulfill it.
Life is a beauty ... praise it.
Life is a struggle ... fight it.
Life is a goal ... achieve it.
Life is a puzzle ... solve it.
Author unknown to me..
Sorry it is not Austin Healey related.
Alex and Helga - 1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:16:22 -0500
Subject: Re: List of Hot Wheels Healeys
you are serious, aren't you
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> List of Hot Wheels currently produced:
>
> Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Silver 2000 card
> Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Grey 2000 card
> Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Silver 2001 card
> Item 092 (#32 of 36) Black over Grey 2001 card
> Item 167 Red over White 2001 card
>
> Gift Pack #50078 City Service: Hot Mid Blue with decals "Planet Hot Wheels
> Office of the Mayor" comes with 4 other cars
>
> The last two are currently available at Wal Mart, K-Mart, Walgreens, Pep
> Boys, And where ever Hot Wheels are sold. There is also a gentleman on the
> Internet that takes the blower off and will paint to order including flames
> or ????
>
> In Europe Charles Matthews has a good supply of most of these.
>
> Good hunting...
> Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:19:20 -0500
Subject: Re: What is Life? (owner of a BN7)
Life is also a magazine!
ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
> This is a good guide for the year 2002.
>
> What is Life?
>
> Life is a challenge ... meet it.
> Life is a gift ... accept it.
> Life is an adventure ... dare it.
> Life is a sorrow ... overcome it.
> Life is a tragedy ... face it.
> Life is a duty ... perform it.
> Life is a game ... play it.
> Life is a mystery ... unfold it.
> Life is a song ... sing it.
> Life is an opportunity ... take it.
> Life is a journey ... complete it.
> Life is a promise ... fulfill it.
> Life is a beauty ... praise it.
> Life is a struggle ... fight it.
> Life is a goal ... achieve it.
> Life is a puzzle ... solve it.
>
> Author unknown to me..
>
> Sorry it is not Austin Healey related.
> Alex and Helga - 1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:20:21 EST
Subject: Re: What is Life? (owner of a BN7)
In a message dated 12/13/2001 2:16:02 PM Mountain Standard Time,
ZManDino@aol.com writes:
<< What is Life? >>
Life is a Healey, fix it!
Happy Healeydays,
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:51:06 EST
Subject: Re: brake calipers
Keith we have a 3/8 bolt with a hole drilled thru the center and a grease
fitting installed in the end. YOu put this in place of the bleed screw and
apply grease with a pnumatic grease gun and the pistons wil come right out.
******
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:26:39 +1100
Subject: RE: Hot Wheels Healeys
G'day
The red over white Hot Wheels Austin-Healey reached the antipodes a few
weeks back and my local supermarket now has none left. The casting is
slightly different plus the V8 engine is also different. There is also a
very passable Cunningham and a Ferrari 156 for those who are interested in
collecting such things.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: healey6.com [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:00 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
This afternoon while doing last minute Christmas shopping I found a new
Healey Hot Wheel -- same as the black and white one found earlier this year
but the colors are red over white -- Collector No. 167. the windscreen is
laid back and the body is a BN1 or BN2 but with the blower on top of the
engine in a bonnet cutout. Detailing isn't that great, but it IS a Healey
and that alone makes it good.
If you are interested, I found this in the Toddlers section at the cash
register while getting a Clifford shirt for my grandson.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 16:43:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Question about alternatior kits
Just curious -
Most alternators have the voltage regulators built
into the unit itself. If I put on of the Hendrix kits
on (or another one), do I have to rewire the voltage
regulator wires and all that stuff on the firewall?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
>
> Hi, Dave -
> Allen Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro
> has the kits. Check his
> website at http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com
>
> Cheers!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <caudle1@charter.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:24 PM
> Subject: alternator
>
>
> >
> > Is there anyone who can give me info on
> alternators (and brackets) for my
> > bj8? Your assistance would be aprreceiacated.
> > Thanks Dave
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 17:45:01 -0800
Subject: Smoking Healey
I recently purchased a '61 BT-7. With the intent of restoring the Healey, I
began to purchase workshop manuals and any other books that could increase
my limited knowledge of British cars. In other words, I don't know anything
about British cars.
Now here is what was wrong with my BT-7......The engine would smoke (worse
when it was cold) as you accelerate. While cold, the smoke would be black.
After warming up, the smoke would be more white in color.
Also, while accelerating in 1st gear, you can hear a knocking noise from the
transmission. The knocking noise would increase as revolutions increased.
In the last couple of days I began to disassemble the motor. I removed the
head. I intend to removed the block and transmission. What could be
causing the smoking? What should I look for as I disassemble the engine?
Any ideas on the transmission problem? Please help. Feel free to contact
me off the list (theswed@hotmail.com). Thanks.
Ken
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 18:34:46 +0100
Subject: Re: What is Life?
LifeisRich!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:27:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: brake calipers
Keith -
It sounds like one of two things have happened:
1) The caliper piston seals have gotten old and tacky
and are binding the pistons. Possibly use some sort
of solvent that loosens/dissolves rubber parts and
pour it into the calipers (maybe even soak the whole
thing in a tin) and let it sit for a few days before
trying it again.
2) The pistons themselves have rusted behind the
piston seals and the piston seals are preventing the
pistons from coming out. Fix: see point number one.
Hope that helps!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
>
> Need some advice listers.
>
> The other day I drug out a pair of calipers removed
> long ago from a very rusty
> BJ8. Don't really need them right now, but thought
> I would check them out.
> All 4 pistons are seized. They did work fine 25
> years ago before the car was
> parted out. I have added Liquid Wrench numerous
> times over the last several
> day. Yesterday I tried air up to 100 pounds -
> nothing. I also drove them in
> a bit with a drift - still nothing. I even managed
> to wring off the bleed
> screws on both.
>
> Anything I can do with them now? Are they destined
> for Parts Bin Heaven? (no
> relation to Olsama Bin Laden)
>
> All thoughts appreciated.
> Keith Pennell
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:40:55 -0800
Subject: Leaf Spring Disassembly
Help will truly be appreciated on to remove the 'U' clamp screws on the
leaf spring clamps.
The screws appear to be peened on the threaded end.
Is there a method to removing the screws without destroying them?
Are the screws available for purchase? Then I would not have to worry.
My thanks in advance for any help here.
John
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 23:01:23 EST
Subject: Re: Question about alternatior kits
Alan,
All necessary info. is included with our kits. There are 2 kits for Healeys,
early and late. Go to our web site click on cool things both kits are listed.
WWW.HENDRIXWIREWHEEL.COM
Jerry Anderson
Allen Hendrix
Hendrix Wire Wheel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:06:48 -0800
Subject: Healey Transmission Dimensions and weight - Somewhat odd
Dear healey Chat Forum-
I have a Tranmission that I am shipping from North Carolina to San Diego.
Can anyone give me the ballpark dimensions of a 1961 BT& Non-OD
Transmission? Additionally what would the weight be? Again in ballpark
terms? I have a friend that drives his RV from the East Coast to San
Diego/Irvine Area all the time and he offered to help me out. However he
wants to know what he's getting himself into. I have worked around my tanny
a lot lately but i am a horrible guesser when it comes to size and weight.
I guess what I am saying is every fish I have ever caught was "the biggest
fish I have ever seen". Your help is appreciated.
Regards,
Matt-
1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:36:47 +0100
Subject: Ken Freese
I am trying to contact Ken Freese. If someone has his email address or
phone, could you please send it to me off list?
Thanks,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 19:46:21 -0800
Subject: Hot wheel Healeys
I took one of the black/silver ones apart and planed off the blower,
etc., cut a piece of aluminum I had around from shroud repair, filled
the hole in the hood. Then painted it "Healey Blue" (a Poitiac engine
metallic blue- rattle can ) and hand painted the interior dark blue.
Finally just glued it together. It looks terriffic.
Mike Gougeon
55BN2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 23:38:13 -0500
Subject: Healey Highlights
Listers,
Was going through some stuff on a shelf by my recliner this evening. Came
across several Healey Highlights from the 70s. Lots of good photos, many of
Healeys racing.
I am really not much of a history buff, Healeys or otherwise. I did come
across one of the issues which was devoted entirely to the 100S. Many
pictures, articles, list of owners (Bill Wood you were listed and Ken Freese
you were in there too), Road and Track article on the S, and more. There were
pics of the prototypes at Sebring, Mille Miglia, and numerous GB courses.
There was a pic of a young Pat Quinn with Alan Jones I believe it was.
Just thought some of you might like hearing about this.
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 20:43:44 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey Transmission Dimensions and weight - Somewhat odd
Keith-
Thank you for your quick reply Keith. The car has been in my family since
1976. My dad bought a 65 BJ8 parts car and swapped transmissions into his
1961 BT7. He said recently that he did not change out the rear end. Why do
you ask though? There has always been a very slight sound, almost like a
worn left rear hub, when using this rear end with the BJ8 tranny but who
knows. I have that on my list of things to sort out.
Thanks!
Matt-
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 8:29 PM
To: Matt Wilson
Subject: Re: Healey Transmission Dimensions and weight - Somewhat odd
question
Matt,
The tranny goes about 110 lb I believe. Not sure of the length and breadth.
Do you have the rear end that goes with that tranny?
Keith Pennell
> Dear healey Chat Forum-
> I have a Tranmission that I am shipping from North Carolina to San Diego.
> Can anyone give me the ballpark dimensions of a 1961 BT& Non-OD
> Transmission? Additionally what would the weight be? Again in ballpark
> terms? I have a friend that drives his RV from the East Coast to San
> Diego/Irvine Area all the time and he offered to help me out. However he
> wants to know what he's getting himself into. I have worked around my
tanny
> a lot lately but i am a horrible guesser when it comes to size and weight.
> I guess what I am saying is every fish I have ever caught was "the biggest
> fish I have ever seen". Your help is appreciated.
> Regards,
> Matt-
> 1961 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2001 21:17:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Smoking Healey
Kenny -
The best way to stop smoking are those nicotine
patches!
Seriously -
I have to ask... is the smoke bluish in color at all,
or dark black? If it's dark black, that just simply
indicates that your carburettors are runnign too rich.
If it's bluish in color, then it means your rings are
worn and the car is due for a rebuild.
White smoke typically means a bad head gasket in which
anti freeze/water is leaking into the cylinders. Is
your car eating ant freeze or does the anti freeze
look milky white when the car is warm? If so, that
means the head gaske tis bad.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Kenny Johnson <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a '61 BT-7. With the intent of
> restoring the Healey, I
> began to purchase workshop manuals and any other
> books that could increase
> my limited knowledge of British cars. In other
> words, I don't know anything
> about British cars.
>
> Now here is what was wrong with my BT-7......The
> engine would smoke (worse
> when it was cold) as you accelerate. While cold,
> the smoke would be black.
> After warming up, the smoke would be more white in
> color.
>
> Also, while accelerating in 1st gear, you can hear a
> knocking noise from the
> transmission. The knocking noise would increase as
> revolutions increased.
>
> In the last couple of days I began to disassemble
> the motor. I removed the
> head. I intend to removed the block and
> transmission. What could be
> causing the smoking? What should I look for as I
> disassemble the engine?
> Any ideas on the transmission problem? Please help.
> Feel free to contact
> me off the list (theswed@hotmail.com). Thanks.
>
> Ken
>
> '61 BT-7
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 01:14:53 -0500
Subject: RE: Smoking Healey
Ken,
First gear on these cars usually does sound like the whole
gearbox is falling apart. The teeth on first gear are straight
as opposed to healical which makes them more noisy to begin with.
After years of wear and a few chips, they get more so. If it does not
jump out of any gear or grind on downshifts into second and third, leave
the box alone. The only cure for a noisy first gear is to replace the
laygear and the outer ring on first gear. A few years back, AH Spares
was selling new first gears, but the only solution you have with the
laygear is to get them to weld on a new first gear.
As far as the engine smoking is concerned, the black smoke is probably
due to an overly rich mixture. If you only get this when the engine is cold
you could be giving it too much choke. White smoke is water vapor, possibly
a
blown head gasket. If the smoke were blue, that would be oil, either
from worn rings, worn valve guides or seals, or a worn rocker shaft.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Kenny Johnson
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 8:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Smoking Healey
I recently purchased a '61 BT-7. With the intent of restoring the Healey, I
began to purchase workshop manuals and any other books that could increase
my limited knowledge of British cars. In other words, I don't know anything
about British cars.
Now here is what was wrong with my BT-7......The engine would smoke (worse
when it was cold) as you accelerate. While cold, the smoke would be black.
After warming up, the smoke would be more white in color.
Also, while accelerating in 1st gear, you can hear a knocking noise from the
transmission. The knocking noise would increase as revolutions increased.
In the last couple of days I began to disassemble the motor. I removed the
head. I intend to removed the block and transmission. What could be
causing the smoking? What should I look for as I disassemble the engine?
Any ideas on the transmission problem? Please help. Feel free to contact
me off the list (theswed@hotmail.com). Thanks.
Ken
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:22:47 +0100
Subject: Laygear
Lately there has been some discussions on the list about gearboxes.
The laygears are now being reproduced by Limora in Germany. This company has
some cooperation with SC Healey Parts. I4ve heard that they infact bought SC
but I4m not sure if that is correct.
Anyway these laygears are new from scratch and made in Europe, which sounds
reassuring from a quality point of view. If the quality is as good as they
claim, this is the only way to go when it comes to worn laygears, since the
repaired ones don4t last very long. The welded on first gear on repaired
laygears is too soft.
www.limora.de
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 06:38:19 -0500
Subject: Zinc Plating
List:
I now have all of the fasteners and other bits that were originally clear
zinc plated off the car and bead blasted. In my never ending quest for a
do-it-mostly-yourself concours job, I am determined to replate these items.
Does anyone have any experience with any supplier who does bulk zinc
plating? Most of the companies I found with the various search engines only
do bulk commercial work. Several advertise in Hemmings and I have contacted
one or two. Techniques vary (tumble them versus hang each bit on a wire)
and so do prices.
I have also looked into and even purchased a do-it-yourself kit, but given
the size and number of items to be plated, I would like to have the bulk of
it done commercially and do the odd left over bits myself (the quality of
the do-it-yourself kit that I have is good, I've just lost some of my
enthusiasm).
Any recommendations?
Cheers,
John Cope
62BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 04:12:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: URGENT Federal Legislative Alert - U.S. Senate Bill Would Fund
Listers,
This Just In!!!
Just in time for Christmas, the Feds are trying to establish a Federal
Scrappage Program. Sheesh - will this never stop? For those of you who
questioned how or why you would get involved with other states' fights,
here's your opportunity to join the fight against program that would affect
our hobby nationwide. Let's join together to nip this idea in the bud now,
before our Federal legislators get any more emboldened.
Please, read the attached, then make your best argument to both of your
U.S. Senators, even if you believe they may not be sympathetic. We need
everyone's help on this one.
Cheers (I think!)
Rick Feibusch
Journalist/Appraiser
Coordinator/British Car Meets
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Caudill
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 2:52 PM
Subject: SEMA Action Network URGENT Federal Legislative Alert - U.S. Senate
Bill Would Fund Scrappage Programs Nationwide
URGENT FEDERAL SCRAPPAGE ALERT
U.S. Senate Bill Would Fund Scrappage Programs Nationwide
A bill (S. 1766) has been introduced in the U.S. Senate containing a
provision (Section 803) that would federally fund state scrappage programs
for vehicles over 15 years old. Owners who turn in vehicles for crushing
would receive a "minimal" payment and a future credit toward purchasing a
newer vehicle, all in a misguided attempt to improve the overall fuel
economy of the country's vehicle fleet. This bill represents the most
formidable Federal legislative threat to the vehicle hobby in many years.
Oppose the Use of U.S. Taxpayer Dollars for Scrappage
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 would give states that don't currently operate
scrappage programs an extra incentive to create a program due to generous
federal funding.
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 requires that federally funded state scrappage
programs crush every car. It threatens enthusiasts nationwide with the loss
of valuable parts and parts-cars for repair, restoration, and customization
projects.
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 does not require states to determine the fuel
efficiency of vehicles being scrapped or that scrapped vehicles are being
replaced by more fuel-efficient vehicles.
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 ignores the fact that cars turned in for scrappage
often barely run or are rarely driven second or third vehicles that have a
minimal impact on overall fuel economy.
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 will diminish the availability of affordable
transportation and repair parts to low-income drivers as more and more older
cars are crushed.
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 does not guarantee that low-income individuals
will be able to afford to purchase new vehicles - let alone more fuel
efficient vehicles - with the money provided by scrappage programs.
7 Section 803 of S. 1766 ignores more socially responsible and
cost-effective policy options like voluntary vehicle repair and upgrade
programs that maximize the fuel efficiency of existing vehicles.
.
Contact Your U.S. Senators to Oppose Section 803 of S. 1766
Protect American vehicle enthusiasts and low-income drivers. To find out who
your U.S. Senators are, call the SEMA Washington, D.C. office at
202-783-6007 or access this information via the Internet at
www.enjoythedrive.com/legislative/contact_legislator.asp. For assistance in
turning this alert into a letter to your Senator, consult the SEMA document
"How to Lobby Elected Officials." This guide is available at
www.enjoythedrive.com/san.
Please fax a copy of your letters to us at 202/783-6024 or mail to:
SEMA Washington Office
1317 F St., NW, Ste. 500
Washington, D.C. 20004
Attn: Brian Caudill/ Steve McDonald
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:45:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Laygear
Any idea when, where, and how to contact these people.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: Healey lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 3:22 AM
Subject: Laygear
>
> Lately there has been some discussions on the list about gearboxes.
>
> The laygears are now being reproduced by Limora in Germany. This company
has
> some cooperation with SC Healey Parts. I4ve heard that they infact bought
SC
> but I4m not sure if that is correct.
>
> Anyway these laygears are new from scratch and made in Europe, which
sounds
> reassuring from a quality point of view. If the quality is as good as they
> claim, this is the only way to go when it comes to worn laygears, since
the
> repaired ones don4t last very long. The welded on first gear on repaired
> laygears is too soft.
>
> www.limora.de
>
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:53:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Laygear
The web site is in German. Can someone get more imformation on these
laygears and get back with me. I speak-a-no-German.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: Healey lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 3:22 AM
Subject: Laygear
>
> Lately there has been some discussions on the list about gearboxes.
>
> The laygears are now being reproduced by Limora in Germany. This company
has
> some cooperation with SC Healey Parts. I4ve heard that they infact bought
SC
> but I4m not sure if that is correct.
>
> Anyway these laygears are new from scratch and made in Europe, which
sounds
> reassuring from a quality point of view. If the quality is as good as they
> claim, this is the only way to go when it comes to worn laygears, since
the
> repaired ones don4t last very long. The welded on first gear on repaired
> laygears is too soft.
>
> www.limora.de
>
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:48:50 -0500
Subject: 100S
Hi Keith,
Thanks for the "warning" of the Healey Highlights article surfacing in your
home. I do remember it well. When Pat Quinn and Alan Jones came to visit me
in Somers, Connecticut, we had a ball with the 100S stories and they have
lasted with me all these years...the value of the clubs in the world.
The "boys from Australia" look so young now and the young American who had
that AHS3605 hasn't "aged" that much either. The cars look older, but my
mental attitude is still like a kid.
Thanks for the memories!
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:02:18 -0500
Subject: LeMans Paint Color Question
Hi Kent,
The Facotry Records show that only three LeMans cars were solid Florida Green
and that fifty-five of the cars were painted Florida Green over white.
As to the distributor question, I don't think the cap you describe was for the
100-4 and may have been fitted as a replacement from some other four cylinder
car.
As an additinal note, two of the LeMans cars are noted to be Spruce Green and
are consequetive numbers, so they may have been someone's special order of the
day.
Have a great Christmas.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:47 -0600
Subject: Laygear
Sounds like Magnus indicated that the gears can be purchased through SC
Parts. Their part number for 1st gear assembly is SC906 at a price
of #172.42
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:21:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Zinc Plating
in the dallas area, you can get a 5 gallon bucket full of trinkets barrel
plated with cad 1 for approximately $45. it isn't necessary to clean
everything in advance since the plater puts everything through an acid bath
first. be sure and have them bake everything upon completion to remove the
hydrogen embrittlement. in this manner, you can reuse nuts and bolts which
came on your healey.
John W. Cope wrote:
>
>
> List:
>
> I now have all of the fasteners and other bits that were originally clear
> zinc plated off the car and bead blasted. In my never ending quest for a
> do-it-mostly-yourself concours job, I am determined to replate these items.
>
> Does anyone have any experience with any supplier who does bulk zinc
> plating? Most of the companies I found with the various search engines only
> do bulk commercial work. Several advertise in Hemmings and I have contacted
> one or two. Techniques vary (tumble them versus hang each bit on a wire)
> and so do prices.
>
> I have also looked into and even purchased a do-it-yourself kit, but given
> the size and number of items to be plated, I would like to have the bulk of
> it done commercially and do the odd left over bits myself (the quality of
> the do-it-yourself kit that I have is good, I've just lost some of my
> enthusiasm).
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ledwith, Ryan S [FI]" <ryan.s.ledwith at ssmb.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:28:51 -0500
Subject: Auto Glass - Suppliers?
Where should I look for a new windshield and new roll up windows? I live on
the east coast, and wonder about shipping a windshield across the country.
Can they be shipped safely?
Also, with the windshield, If I want to rechrome the trim, how far do I
disassemble the whole thing? I heard that you don't want to start drilling
out rivets, but if I want all the pieces rechromed, should I expect the
chrome shop to have new rivets? I would guess that glass pros should be
used to install the new windshield to ensure a tight fit.
Ryan Ledwith
Salomon Brothers Realty Corp.
(212) 816-8299 FAX
(212) 816-8253 phone
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:08:08 +0100
Subject: Laygears
I included Limoras website adress in my original posting. It may have been a
little unclear so here it goes again: www.limora.de
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 10:30:00 EST
Subject: Re: Question about alternatior kits
In a message dated 12/13/01 7:45:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
> do I have to rewire the voltage
> regulator wires and all that stuff on the firewall?
>
>
Alan--
Just use it as a teminal strip and keep it in place if you want to look
semi-original...
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (with wonderful Prestolite alternator)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:40:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Transmission Dimensions and weight - Somewhat
Matt,
I have a non overdrive BJ7 transmission sitting around that measures:
32" long
17" wide at Bell housing
15" high at Bell housing
22" high at top of gear shift knob
The workshop manual lists the Standard Gearbox weight at 79.5 lbs and the
Gearbox
with overdrive at 117 lbs.
Cheers,
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:11:49 +0000
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?q?Re:_Coup=E9?=
Reid
Just an update on what you have said. Just before Bruno first raised
this subject on the "net" I had been contacted by somebody else who was
planning to purchase one of these Belgium Coupis. He provided
photographs. I cannot for obvious reasons say who this was but I found
the subject very interesting. There were a few things that I queried.
The main one being that the new roof did not look very strong and I
understand no internal roll cage was fitted. From this I have to deduce
that the car was not raced in recent years because it would be unlikely
to meet current regs. I was interested to see what form of external door
handles were fitted. However although I could see that something had
been added to the inside of the door, the photos did not show the
outside. The particular 100 I was shown had various other not roof
related items changed such as the front and rear running lights.
I have to admit that I had not heard of these cars before. As you know I
run the 100 Register and many bits of information come my way. However
just because we have not heard of these Belgium Coupis before does not
really mean anything.
Regarding the works Coupis, the one that David Matthews had some time
ago was as you say sold and a few years back the car was restored and
the original roof was re-united with the car. I cannot publish who the
new owner is but the car has been seen at UK National events.
The other works coupi is believed to still be with the owner you
mention.
If Bruno would like to send me details of his car such as chassis number
etc. I will be pleased to look up our database and see if we have
anything to add.
All the best
>On Wed, 12 Dec 2001 18:07:21 +0100, Bruno Verstraete wrote:
>
><< Dear Healey Lovers, I just bought An Austin Healey 100/4 Coupe. As I am
>about to start the restoration of this car I am currently gathering all
>possible info on this car. The story of the car is the following: 6 cars
>were exported new to Belgium carrossier d'Ieteren in 1954 an converted to
>fixed head coupi for a GT class race in Spa Francorchamps. There are 2 cars
>left : mine and another one which is still actively racing. Does anyone
>knows more about Healey Coupis? Thanks for completing the history of these
>fascinating cars, Bruno Verstraete >>
>
>
>Bruno,
>
>I'm not familiar with the six cars you mention, but Arthur Carter owns one
>of the two original factory (Donald Healey Motor Company) coupes, and the
>other was owned by David Matthews, also of England. That car was, I
>understand, sold to Australia several years ago and I don't know the new
>owner's name.
>
>In any case perhaps someone in the UK club could put you in touch with
>Carter and/or Matthews if that's of interest.
>
>Sounds like a great project you have there. Any photos you could share?
>(You can't attach photos to email sent to this Mail List, so please use my
>address of <reidt@healey.org> if you are able to email some photos).
>Thanks.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>http://www.healey.org
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred Crowley <oldwolf at airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 11:07:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Transmission Dimensions and weight -
John,
I believe that you omitted a 0 on the weight. You must be talking about
theoretical
weights. I've removed and replaced my big Healey transmission many times, and I
can
positively state that the weight of that transmission with overdrive is 1170
lbs.,
and gains an additional 50 lbs everytime it is removed.
Fred
Team Healey texas
John Loftus wrote:
> Matt,
>
> I have a non overdrive BJ7 transmission sitting around that measures:
> 32" long
> 17" wide at Bell housing
> 15" high at Bell housing
> 22" high at top of gear shift knob
>
> The workshop manual lists the Standard Gearbox weight at 79.5 lbs and the
>Gearbox
> with overdrive at 117 lbs.
>
> Cheers,
> John
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
oldwolf.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 09:15:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Smoking Healey
Ken,
Don't forget to look at the brake power assist (if you
have one) as a possible source of light blue/white
smoke. Since you have already began taking apart the
engine, if it is an engine tollerance problem, it
really doesn't matter what was causing the problem as
a complete rebuild should tighten up the sources.
Is it too late to rethink about tearing out the block?
Rich carbs and a bad rocker assembly are easy
fixes...
Dean BN7 (New engine now on the stand)
--- Peter Schauss <schauss@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> Now here is what was wrong with my BT-7......The
> engine would smoke (worse
> when it was cold) as you accelerate. While cold,
> the smoke would be black.
> After warming up, the smoke would be more white in
> color.
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:33:35 EST
Subject: 100 Registries-Challenge
As far as I can tell there are three main 100 registries:
je.adams@worldnet.att.net (Ed Adams) for AHCUSA, just started about July;
healeybill@worldnet.att.net (Bill Wood Jr) for AHCA, who seems to have lots
of original factory information; and
john@jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) for UKAHC.
It would seem to be a straight-forward procedure to tell us how many 100s are
known to exist by each registry. I know of 62 BN1s and 34 BN2s just from
this mailing list. A quick glance shows between 100 and 200 BN1s listed in
the AHCA Membership Directory. I see about 84 BN1s listed in California in
the AHCUSA Resource Book. We know there were over 10,000 BN1s and BN2s made.
John Harper made some guestimates back in April, but I'd really be interested
to know how many 100s are still around/accounted for.
Steve
'54 BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From deemi at juno.com
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:59:18 -0500
Subject: Odd gauge Morgan/Healey
Hi,
can anyone please look up the application of a GD1500 /29 Smiths oil
pressure and water temp gauge.
it should be circa 1963, as it was mounted in My Morgan Super Sports on
the left of the Dash (LHD)
looks like my healey one, but numbers are different.
0-100 lbs/ sq inch on pressure and 0-230 on the temp in F.
I think it was used as a temp gauge for the finned alloy sump and oil
cooler in the car.
any suggestions or clues very much appreciated. The dating of it would
be quite helpful, It has a large brass nut on the end of the temp
part, and a steel oil pressure line.
I have seen these on the other endurance Super Sports Morgans, including
Tok 258 and XRX 1
I am just trying to figure out its original application to restore it!
Thanks
Bob Bowie
63 Morgan SS 5381
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:42:01 -0600
Subject: Taliban Christmas (No Healey Content) (I hope)
No Healey content, but expresses some feelings towards Bin Ladin and his
worthless crew.
Written by Chuck Yarber with some editing and a few lines added by Don
Yarber, BN7, Kentucky
Twas the night before Ramadan and deep in the cave,
Bin Ladin was fearful it might be his grave
His troops lay around him as quiet as mice, scratching their nuts, though
their heads had the lice.
They shivered and shook as the bombs fell, they'd never imagined this kind
of hell.
They wanted to run there was no place to hide
Their spirits were broken as well as their pride,
They'd followed Bin Ladin, Damn his ol' hide.
They live like worms under the ground
Our heat seekers are searching. Soon they'll be found.
Their leader has sworn they'd fight till they died.
They surrender by thousands, Bin Ladin has lied.
Merry Christmas, Bin Ladin, damn your ol' hide.
He has no more courage than the rest of his men,
Soon he must pay for his terrible sin.
Bush said Bin Ladin would pay with his balls.
They'll be stuffed and mounted on Pentagon walls
George W. will show them to America with pride.
Merry Christmas Bin Ladin, damned your ol' hide.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 12:58:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Transmission Dimensions and weight
Fred,
You need to clean the road grime off before you pull it.
Bill Lawrence
Fred Crowley wrote:
> John,
>
> I believe that you omitted a 0 on the weight. You must be talking about
>theoretical
> weights. I've removed and replaced my big Healey transmission many times, and
>I can
> positively state that the weight of that transmission with overdrive is 1170
>lbs.,
> and gains an additional 50 lbs everytime it is removed.
>
> Fred
> Team Healey texas
>
> John Loftus wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > I have a non overdrive BJ7 transmission sitting around that measures:
> > 32" long
> > 17" wide at Bell housing
> > 15" high at Bell housing
> > 22" high at top of gear shift knob
> >
> > The workshop manual lists the Standard Gearbox weight at 79.5 lbs and the
>Gearbox
> > with overdrive at 117 lbs.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > John
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
>oldwolf.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jag62e at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:23:48 EST
Subject: Intake manifold fuel drain
Can someone explain the purpose of the small copper tube coming out of the
bottom of the intake manifold?
Doesn't this result in a vacuum leak?
I am tempted to close it off if there is no purpose to having it.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts,
Dick North
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 16:47:00 EST
Subject: Re: Intake manifold fuel drain
The hole in the copper tube is far too small to have any measurable
effect upon the intake vacuum pressure.
The purpose of the tubes is to drain off any gasoline that seeps past a
dirty float bowl valve when the ignition key and fuel pump are on and the
engine is not running.
Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 15:47:17 -0600
Subject: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
The "Painted Lady", my BJ8, has been running perfectly for the past month
and she has undoubtedly decided that I need a jolt out of my silly "all is
well with her" stupor. This she has accomplished in unusually fine style by
beginning to slip out of fourth gear whenever I let off the accelerator -
not every time, mind you - that would be entirely too predictable. Nooo,
she's toying with me. Sometimes she jumps right out but then sometimes she
slips out so gently that I hardly know she's done it - until I try something
foolish and unnecessary - like attempting to pass another car on a two lane
road. This, of course, allows me to check the workings of the engine and the
sound of the exhaust note at 5000 rpms while the car gradually slows down
and gives the driver behind, who's rapidly overtaking me, a close look at
the rear end of a 3000 MK III. These other drivers have been great sports,
though. Almost every one of them has signaled to me that my Healey and I are
"number 1".
Actually, I can keep the trans in fourth gear by holding back pressure on
the shifter at all times but, after a long drive, I'm finding it
increasingly difficult to do much with my right hand. Any ideas?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Clayton La Baw <clabaw at jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 14:59:27 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
Phil -
Perhaps a strategically located bungee cord?
Clay L.
At 03:47 PM 12/14/2001 -0600, Phillip W. Leslie wrote:
>The "Painted Lady", my BJ8, has been running perfectly for the past month
>and she has undoubtedly decided that I need a jolt out of my silly "all is
>well with her" stupor. This she has accomplished in unusually fine style by
>beginning to slip out of fourth gear whenever I let off the accelerator -
>not every time, mind you - that would be entirely too predictable. Nooo,
>she's toying with me. Sometimes she jumps right out but then sometimes she
>slips out so gently that I hardly know she's done it - until I try something
>foolish and unnecessary - like attempting to pass another car on a two lane
>road. This, of course, allows me to check the workings of the engine and the
>sound of the exhaust note at 5000 rpms while the car gradually slows down
>and gives the driver behind, who's rapidly overtaking me, a close look at
>the rear end of a 3000 MK III. These other drivers have been great sports,
>though. Almost every one of them has signaled to me that my Healey and I are
>"number 1".
>
>Actually, I can keep the trans in fourth gear by holding back pressure on
>the shifter at all times but, after a long drive, I'm finding it
>increasingly difficult to do much with my right hand. Any ideas?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 22:18:07 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
I have EXACTLY the same problem with my BJ8 transmission. I have been told
that it could be a number of things, but we won't know for sure until the
gearbox gets pulled apart. Luckily, the repair is "under warranty" from the
person that rebuilt it.
I will be taking the gearbox out this month, hopefully, and returning it to
the place where it was rebuilt. If you can wait that long, I will tell you
what the prognosis was.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Phillip W. Leslie
> Sent: December 14, 2001 4:47 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
>
> This she has accomplished in unusually
> fine style by
> beginning to slip out of fourth gear whenever I let off the
> accelerator -
> not every time, mind you - that would be entirely too
> predictable. Nooo,
<SNIP>
>
> Actually, I can keep the trans in fourth gear by holding back
> pressure on
> the shifter at all times but, after a long drive, I'm finding it
> increasingly difficult to do much with my right hand. Any ideas?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 19:26:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100 Registries-Challenge
On Fri, 14 Dec 2001 13:33:35 EST, SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
<< As far as I can tell there are three main 100 registries:
je.adams@worldnet.att.net (Ed Adams) for AHCUSA, just started about July;
>>
Steve,
Just a brief but important word about registries. There are NO AHCUSA
registries. We support all non-denominational efforts and claim ownership
of none.
Ed volunteered to get the 100 Registry restarted after it was idle for so
long and so many people reported getting no response from the existing
registrar. I realize that sharing these facts is likely to displease a few,
but them's the facts. We saw a problem and tried to do something about it.
A quick count of BN1 and BN2 cars on record for the AHCUSA is about 450,
coast to coast, of course... :-)
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:19:42 +1100
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
I wouldn't rush to pull ot the gearbox and pull it apart just yet.....
I had a similar situation occur with my BJ8 gearbox - but not as
consistently. The only time mine would pop out of top gear was at the end of
the main straight at Eastern creek racetrack - a long, fast straight - with
a 100mph plus left hand corner at the end. The generally agreed method is,
as you are pulling max revs in overdrive top at the end of the straight -
you lift off and touch the brakes (more to just make sure they are still
there) - then back flat on the gas and around turn one -still in overdrive
top.
Unfortunately - the lift off the gas caused the car to jump out of top
gear - and coasting around turn one at over 100 mph isn't something I'd
recommend.....
It turned out there was nothing wrong with the gearbox - it was a balance
issue. The gearbox had been fully rebuilt with almost every part replaced,
during the restoration (and has a Denis Welch Straight cut close ratio
gearset) - so I couldn't believe it was the gearbox itself - there wasn't
anything left to replace!!.
First step is to balance your tailshaft. Check that the balance weights are
still on it, and that the universal joints are tight - then get it balanced
by a tailshaft balancer. My tailshaft had already been balanced during the
restoration - so I skipped this step.
The second thing is the brake drums. BJ8 finned rear brakedrums are
notoriously out of round. The amount of metal that has to be removed to
balance the average BJ8 drum (on a 11in diameter drum) is often the
equivelent to several pounds on a 15 in diameter rim. I wasn't aware of this
during the restoration.
So I had my rear brake drums balanced - and the car hasn't ever jumped out
of top gear on the entry to turn one ever since... And I didn't need to pull
out my gearbox.
If balancing the tailshaft and brakedrums doesn't work - then you will have
to pull out the gearbox. But balancing the brakedrums and tailshaft is good
anyway - it makes everything run so much smoother - and it is heaps easier
than pulling out the gearbox & o/drive.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 2:18 PM
Subject: RE: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
>
> I have EXACTLY the same problem with my BJ8 transmission. I have been told
> that it could be a number of things, but we won't know for sure until the
> gearbox gets pulled apart. Luckily, the repair is "under warranty" from
the
> person that rebuilt it.
>
> I will be taking the gearbox out this month, hopefully, and returning it
to
> the place where it was rebuilt. If you can wait that long, I will tell you
> what the prognosis was.
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Phillip W. Leslie
> > Sent: December 14, 2001 4:47 PM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
> >
> > This she has accomplished in unusually
> > fine style by
> > beginning to slip out of fourth gear whenever I let off the
> > accelerator -
> > not every time, mind you - that would be entirely too
> > predictable. Nooo,
> <SNIP>
> >
> > Actually, I can keep the trans in fourth gear by holding back
> > pressure on
> > the shifter at all times but, after a long drive, I'm finding it
> > increasingly difficult to do much with my right hand. Any ideas?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 02:28:33 EST
Subject: Re: Laygear
I have been using and selling the rebuilt laygears for several years now and
have had no failures.
What is the price of the new milled ones relative the rebuilt ones?
cheers, Bill, Bolt-On Healeys
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 09:09:37 EST
Subject: Newsletters
The December issue of the Bluegrass Club Newsletter is now online at
http://hometown.aol.com/jwerner/newsletter.html It is a download in Adobe
Acrobat format.
First a disclaimer: When I announce sites like this on the list it tends to
overwhelm my web server. If you get an error message hit reload to try again
or try back later, the server is busy.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:05:39
Subject: Rear Axle Hub Seals
Listers, would appreciate any input/advice re my winter project: started to
up-grade braking system and observed rear seals leaking when drums and hub
extensions were removed(wire wheels). No indication of leaking on old shoes
and inside of drums. Now would be the time to remove and replace seals with
new. Work shop manual refers to all kinds of special tools to pull
hubs,seals,etc. Any advice would be most appreciated.
Loving my newly heated garage in the now frozen tundra,
Terry
BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 11:19:04 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
Chris,
I found that the problem of slipping out of 4th gear very strange, since the
gearbox had just been taken apart and restored; the problem manifested
itself within a few miles of driving on the new gearbox.
As for the balancing:
If the balance weights were on the tailshaft, where exactly would they be,
and how were they attached?
As for the brake drums, is it strictly the drums that should be balanced, or
should anything else, such as any part of the hub assembly, be attached at
the time of the balancing? What sort of shop would perform such a balancing?
I'm not sure if either type of balancing was done during restoration; I will
have to ask.
My gearbox may have to be pulled anyway, because the (brand new) seals are
leaking, unless you have any suggestions for curing that problem. I know
Healeys are SUPPOSED to leak, but not like this!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
> Sent: December 15, 2001 2:20 AM
> To: John P. New; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
>
>
> I wouldn't rush to pull ot the gearbox and pull it apart just yet.....
>
> First step is to balance your tailshaft. Check that the
> balance weights are
> still on it, and that the universal joints are tight - then
> get it balanced
> by a tailshaft balancer. My tailshaft had already been
> balanced during the
> restoration - so I skipped this step.
>
> The second thing is the brake drums. BJ8 finned rear brakedrums are
> notoriously out of round. The amount of metal that has to be
> removed to
> balance the average BJ8 drum (on a 11in diameter drum) is often the
> equivelent to several pounds on a 15 in diameter rim. I
> wasn't aware of this
> during the restoration.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From phil at lesliecompanies.com (Phillip W. Leslie)
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:18:49 -0600
Subject: Jumping out of fourth gear
Thanks to all for your insights. They certainly gave me solutions to ponder
while I'm trying to get my right hand straightened out. Rest assured, I
won't be holding the thing in gear any more. I was afraid that doing that
would wear something out. It just didn't seem natural, you know? When I get
the problem sorted out, I'll post the results since it seems that I'm not
the only one with the problem. This is beginning to sound like a group
therapy session I was once roped into. --- Bungies - hmmm.
Phil Leslie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 10:21:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels Healeys
OH NO!!!
i thought i had to buy a hundred since they were "Healey Hundreds"!!!
HoHoHoYo
healey6.com wrote:
>RE: Hot Wheels HealeysOk you beat me. I bought the only two they had. Got an
>even dozen of the other ones and then stopped. I guess that means wer both are
>pathetic.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Browning David
> To: 'healey6.com' ; Healey List
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 3:15 PM
> Subject: RE: Hot Wheels Healeys
>
>
> I have about 7-8 of the new ones so far. I'm pathetic! I bought 3 last
>night!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healey6.com [mailto:healey6@optonline.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 3:00 PM
> To: Healey List
> Subject: Hot Wheels Healeys
>
>
>
>
> This afternoon while doing last minute Christmas shopping I found a new
>Healey Hot Wheel -- same as the black and white one found earlier this year
>but the colors are red over white -- Collector No. 167. the windscreen is laid
>back and the body is a BN1 or BN2 but with the blower on top of the engine in
>a bonnet cutout. Detailing isn't that great, but it IS a Healey and that alone
>makes it good.
>
> If you are interested, I found this in the Toddlers section at the cash
>register while getting a Clifford shirt for my grandson.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:10:20 -0500
Subject: AHCA 100 Register
The AHCA delegates recently met and I provided the information totals to Edie
Anderson for that meeeting.
I reported a total of 2219 BN1 and BN2 cars recorded over the years we have
been keeping track of numbers. The AHCA provided some information to the UK
registry, but unfortunately I have not received any information back from any
overseas Registery since I dealt with John Wheatley many, many years ago!
I also have never contacted Ed Adams at all, nor have I heard from him.
I do have many Australian numbers, but not from any central source.
Hope this answers the queries about the Club cooperation.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 13:02:21 EST
Subject: Old Virus Hoax...
Hi Healeyophiles,
I just received two more warnings about a serious viruses. It was one of the
old hoax's making the rounds again. Please!!!! check virus's out first
before you do anything!!! Please do not send warnings unless you have
checked them out first. There are several excellent web sites to check them
out.
Here are just a few:
http://www.stiller.com/hoaxa.htm
http://vil.mcafee.com/hoax.asp
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/hoax.html
Put one or more of these sites in your favorite places links and when you get
a warning or think you have a virus, check them out first, PLEASE! Otherwise
we are just yelling that the sky is falling, or yelling fire in a packed
theater. This last one was the SULFNBK.EXE hoax which the warning sender
sends you a list of instructions to delete this file. Wrong! You need this
file and it is a pain in the butttt to reinstall it.
Sorry to bomb the list, I hope this will help to stop these hoax lists.
Happy Healeydays and
Please practice safe emails
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 12:31:33 -0600
Subject: Re: AHCA 100 Register -Registerie in General
Lads
In reviewing the AHCA membership directory and the AHCUSA
Resource Book, both for 2001, there are nine registries which are
identical to both of these groups. Three additional ones are
listed in AHCA (Jensen Healey, Nash Healey, an Healey Boats)
while AHCUSA lists another two (100, Golden Beige). It would
appear on the surface that nine of these are independent
registries operated under the sanction of both major clubs in
some cases by individuals that belong to both clubs. The purpose
of the registries I assume is to maintain records of existing
cars and note the demise of those that melted away due to
insufficient oil leaks <wink>. These exist at the willingness of
those who look after them (an the desire of the two major clubs
to have an accounting as well); and those of us with Healeys that
believe a central resource centre for our particular model is
important.
There are as Bill (Wood) has mentioned registries which exist in
the UK, and I guess elsewhere. The UK registries are protected by
a privacy act legislated in 1997 I believe which protects the
identity of individuals belonging to ngo's, this I learned in
having provided a small assistance to John (Harper) within the
last year. The sharing of information between the major clubs
would therefore in some way be bound by a level of privacy.
Like many Healey owners I was only too happy to provide Steve
Byers with all the particulars of my BJ8 including photos and a
copy of the certificate from the Motor Heritage Trust in England.
The Trust has the production records of most Healeys but not the
current status of these as it is not its function, therefore, as
I understand the importance of the registries.
As an owner I would like to know the complete history of my car,
I know all but it's first six years, I assume if the original
owner had access to such a system (registry) I would be able to
request that information. There are additional facts that would
be useful to know such as the number that still exist by year an
by model, unique features such as some of the cars produced for
export to Europe, etc., etc.
There would be a real advantage not only to the various major
"national" clubs but also to current owners if these registries
were constituted under a centralized body with the major
provision that the privacy of the individual be protected - mind
you in North America the directories (resource book) of both
"national" clubs are readily available. And that from time to
time generalized fact sheets could be made available to owners
for a small fee rather than a few that attend "national club"
meetings.
Kind regards an Seasons Greetings to All
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
bill wood wrote:
>
> The AHCA delegates recently met and I provided the information totals to Edie
> Anderson for that meeeting.
>
> I reported a total of 2219 BN1 and BN2 cars recorded over the years we have
> been keeping track of numbers. The AHCA provided some information to the UK
> registry, but unfortunately I have not received any information back from any
> overseas Registery since I dealt with John Wheatley many, many years ago!
>
> I also have never contacted Ed Adams at all, nor have I heard from him.
>
> I do have many Australian numbers, but not from any central source.
>
> Hope this answers the queries about the Club cooperation.
>
> Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:52:17 -0500
Subject: Registries in General - rather long
Healeyphiles -
Whenever the subject of registries comes up, as it does occasionally, I feel
compelled to put in my two cents' worth, since it is a subject on which I
devote a considerable amount of time (and personal expense), and in which I
have a strong interest. It is a way that I can enjoy the marque, learn
something about my model of choice (BJ8) and at the same time give something
of value back to the hobby (hopefully).
The registries are independent from each other and each is operated as the
specific registrar chooses --- it is as active as his/her interest and
willingness to go after the data, and it is as useful to current/past/future
owners as the registrar is willing to make it. The data collected is up to
the registrar to decide, as well as what he/she does with it.
Privacy of the personal information (name/address/phone/e-mail) contained in
the registries is always a concern, and it is the main reason that prohibits
the various registries of the same model from merging. The ideal situation
would be for there to be one integrated database that contains all of the
cars and details for all of the cars of that model in the world. The value
of the registries is in direct proportion to the number of cars and their
details that it contains. However, many owners are sensitive to their
names, etc. being given to others without their knowledge or permission, and
will not contribute to a registry without assurance that the information is
held in confidence. As Ed Driver points out, in the UK there are laws
prohibiting such personal information from being shared without the consent
of the individuals concerned. On our side of the pond, the AHCA registries
website (http://www.serve.com/AHCA/ahcareg.htm) states that no personal data
will be released to anyone else without first obtaining permission. Data
on AHCA BJ8 owners is contained in the BJ8 registry, so I have to observe
their privacy policy. The BJ8 registry contains records on almost 4,000
cars and many more owners. It's obvious that obtaining individual
permission to exchange data wholesale with other registries is not
practical.
It is the privacy issue that renders the U.S. state Departments of Motor
Vehicles almost useless to owners who wish to trace the history of their
cars. Most states (but not all) will not release previous owners' names or
addresses even to the current legal owner of a vehicle, which in a way seems
very odd, but that's the way it is. It's for that reason that I have been
trying to document as much of the individual ownership histories on BJ8s as
is still available before more of it disappears.
It is my personal hope that some way can be found that the UK registries and
ours can cooperate for the benefit of all of us within the restrictions of
the law. Some very early steps have been made in that direction. In the
interim, I personally have been contacting as many foreign Healey clubs as
possible to solicit from them an identification of BJ8s.
Some of you may believe that collecting data on these cars is a mostly
harmless but also a rather useless activity. The following are some of the
ways the BJ8 registry data has been used in the last year:
A. To help an original owner make contact with the current owner of a car so
that he could transfer the original documentation (Bill of Sale, window
sticker, Passport to Service, etc.) and photographs of the car from 1965 to
the current owner. A similar coordination was made in another case to
assist in the transfer of old photographs.
B. To reunite an original driver's handbook with the car it belonged to, 35
years after they became separated.
C. To identify cars using particular Key Numbers so that New Original Stock
keys could be made available to the owners.
D. To assist current non-U.S. owners of BJ8s to trace the history of their
cars in the USA or get in touch with previous U.S. owners (this has occurred
15 times).
E. To help identify cars that have lost their original VIN plates. In one
case, the VIN plates had been exchanged between a car in Virginia and one
now in Sweden.
F. To identify a car registered with an incorrect VIN number (two cars
registered in Tennessee with identical VINs). This knowledge was passed on
to both owners. Without the registry, this would never have come to light
unless some legal confusion arose at a later date [possibly an innocent
owner being charged with a traffic ticket].
G. To correct a listing of ranges of body numbers assigned to each "batch
number" that had been compiled from production data. The actual batch and
body numbers as recorded from firewall tags show that production records are
sometimes incorrect.
H. To identify a car that was reported stolen in California in 1996 and
turned up in Belgium this year.
For those who are interested in more details of the BJ8 registry, I wrote a
report for the AHCA Delegates Meeting that I can send you if you request it.
For those of you who are interested in how many cars have been accounted
for, and how they are distributed throughout the world, I have another
attachment I can send if you request it.
Registries can serve a very useful purpose for those who have occasion to
use them. Not every owner will benefit, but again the more cars that are
accounted for and the more details that can be assembled on each, the more
valuable the registries become. I hope the above will convince the skeptics
and I solicit your support.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: "bill wood" <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: AHCA 100 Register -Registerie in General
>
> Lads
>
> In reviewing the AHCA membership directory and the AHCUSA
> Resource Book, both for 2001, there are nine registries which are
> identical to both of these groups. Three additional ones are
> listed in AHCA (Jensen Healey, Nash Healey, an Healey Boats)
> while AHCUSA lists another two (100, Golden Beige). It would
> appear on the surface that nine of these are independent
> registries operated under the sanction of both major clubs in
> some cases by individuals that belong to both clubs. The purpose
> of the registries I assume is to maintain records of existing
> cars and note the demise of those that melted away due to
> insufficient oil leaks <wink>. These exist at the willingness of
> those who look after them (an the desire of the two major clubs
> to have an accounting as well); and those of us with Healeys that
> believe a central resource centre for our particular model is
> important.
>
> There are as Bill (Wood) has mentioned registries which exist in
> the UK, and I guess elsewhere. The UK registries are protected by
> a privacy act legislated in 1997 I believe which protects the
> identity of individuals belonging to ngo's, this I learned in
> having provided a small assistance to John (Harper) within the
> last year. The sharing of information between the major clubs
> would therefore in some way be bound by a level of privacy.
>
> Like many Healey owners I was only too happy to provide Steve
> Byers with all the particulars of my BJ8 including photos and a
> copy of the certificate from the Motor Heritage Trust in England.
> The Trust has the production records of most Healeys but not the
> current status of these as it is not its function, therefore, as
> I understand the importance of the registries.
>
> As an owner I would like to know the complete history of my car,
> I know all but it's first six years, I assume if the original
> owner had access to such a system (registry) I would be able to
> request that information. There are additional facts that would
> be useful to know such as the number that still exist by year an
> by model, unique features such as some of the cars produced for
> export to Europe, etc., etc.
>
> There would be a real advantage not only to the various major
> "national" clubs but also to current owners if these registries
> were constituted under a centralized body with the major
> provision that the privacy of the individual be protected - mind
> you in North America the directories (resource book) of both
> "national" clubs are readily available. And that from time to
> time generalized fact sheets could be made available to owners
> for a small fee rather than a few that attend "national club"
> meetings.
>
> Kind regards an Seasons Greetings to All
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:41:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Registries in General - rather long
Greetings,
got a few Healeys here,had a few B4, pro'lly have more....proudest of
BN1L222325.
if interested we have tours @ the "Werks" by appointment
only.......ask Rudi M........
if you're planning a midnight parts procurement, beware the 5" Chinese
Coon Dogs", a.k.a. "Swamp Chow-Chows",my home owner's insurance rider no
longer covers damage caused by them!!
Bah Humbug,
HoHoHoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 14:13:32 +1100
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fourth Gear Problem
Hi John
> As for the balancing:
>
> If the balance weights were on the tailshaft, where exactly would they be,
> and how were they attached?
They can be square, round or washer shaped and appear to be spotwelded onto
the cylindrical body of the tailshaft. They can be anywhere along the
tailshaft - but are usually towards the ends. They are placed to
counterbalance the shaft - so their location is determined by the actual
balance of the specific tailshaft.
>
> As for the brake drums, is it strictly the drums that should be balanced,
or
> should anything else, such as any part of the hub assembly, be attached at
> the time of the balancing? What sort of shop would perform such a
balancing?
Generally - its just the drums. Out of balance is exaggered by diameter &
revolutions/minute. The rear bearing hubs, and splined wheel hubs are a much
smaller diameter - in comparision to the the cast heavy drums which are are
11inches in diameter. I had mine balanced by the same machine shop that
balanced my crankshaft, flywheel, conrods etc. I said the drums could be
dramatically 'out by lbs' in my last post - that was a typo - I meant
ounces - balancing mine required removal of several ounces on one side of
one drum, - which relates to over 1/4 lb of out of balance measured at a
15in rim. Doesn't sound like much - but put 1/4 lb wheel weight on a wheel
rim which was otherwise perfectly balanced - and you'll see how much you
notice it....
I just found this - Hendrix Wire wheel offers this service:
http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/drums.html
> My gearbox may have to be pulled anyway, because the (brand new) seals are
> leaking, unless you have any suggestions for curing that problem. I know
> Healeys are SUPPOSED to leak, but not like this!
Make sure the detent springs are replaced; and that the correct shims are
used, in order to line up the laygear with the corresponding gears on the
first motionshaft/mainshaft.
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
> > Sent: December 15, 2001 2:20 AM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:16:21 -0500
Subject: idler box and bolts
Roger, Gary or any other concours devotee:
As I restore my car I have decided that wherever feasible I will adhere to
concours standards in the hope I might actually end up with an inspectable
vehicle. Thus the following trivial question: The concours manual seems
unclear to me on the finish on the idler box and the attaching bolts. It
says "On later models it has been found in unfinished aluminum and also
painted black (on two 3000's built in 1960). To me this wording suggests
that either is acceptable even though it implies that black idler boxes were
not the norm. Moreover, it says that the idler box attaching bolts should
be "black phosphated bolts identical to those on the steering box."
Unfortunately, in the previous paragraph describing steering box attaching
hardware it states that "all 6 cylinder cars used zinc plated hardware."
So, is a black painted idler box with zinc plated attaching bolts correct
for concours inspection on a BT7 Mark II.. Seems like it is to me, but the
devil is sometimes not just in the details, but in the interpretation.
Cheers,
John Cope
62 BT7 Mark II
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 23:28:40 EST
Subject: Re: idler box and bolts
In a message dated 12/15/2001 8:20:00 PM Mountain Standard Time,
naku@wayxcable.com writes:
<<
So, is a black painted idler box with zinc plated attaching bolts correct
for concours inspection on a BT7 Mark II.. Seems like it is to me, but the
devil is sometimes not just in the details, but in the interpretation.
Cheers,
John Cope >>
In preparing the Guidelines we recieve a lot if information, most of it
solicited, and some not. We find a number of variations among the cars and
try to sort out which are flukes and which occurred with some frequency.
As to the idler body finish, the 4-cylinder cars had cast iron bodies, and
these woudl have been painted, as we find.
When the bodies were changed to aluminum, the need to paint them for
"protection" againt corrosion went away. However, we have found some MK I
cars with painted aluminum, albeit with thel paint mostly flaked off. It
appears that the preponderance of 3000s, certainly among the MK IIs and later
(and likely the MK Is as well), had unpainted bodies, so I would suggest not
painting the body of an idler on a MK II. We allow for both finishes as
possible, in case someone finds a painted idler body on their car, so that
they will not be afraid to restore it as original (unless there is genuine
suspicion that the painting of the idler might have occured some time during
the cars life after delivery).
Though most cars have been at least repainted since new, if the rest has not
been taken apart there is a wealth of originality detail available, if you
are patient and careful when disassembling. It is always wise to document
details with photos. These can be used to verify the way soemthing was, or
as a minimum help you in the reassembly process.
You would be amazed at the seemingly trivial stuff that can come up when you
put a car together -- was there a flat washer under the bolt (or screw) head?
-- which way was the bolt/screw inserted? -- was the fastener painted black,
zinc plated, or black oxide/phosphate finshed? -- and on and on. Detailed
photos are the best way to keep track of such info yourself. But you also
must be very careful in how you clean off dirt andwhat solvents you use so as
to not dissolve away some of the not-so-adherent paint.
Roger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:36:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: British Car Forum
Hi Team,
I'd like to ask your consideration of "a modest proposal."
We all know what a great resource this Mail List is. It's free, it's easy,
and it's tremendously beneficial. However, as great as it is, there is
something even better. Much better. It is the forums (yes, yes, I know
that the plural of forum is actually "fora") at www.britishcarforum.com
British Car Forum offers everything that this mail list offers, and much
more. It's free, it's easy, and it can be as beneficial and even more
beneficial that is this mail list.
Check it out and you'll see that the "threads" are much more clearly
presented; that there are several forums available all at once -- like being
subscribed to many mail lists like this one, but without all of the hassle;
that it doesn't clog up your email inbox because you don't get emails, you
go to a website and read all of the messages there; that it offers ads,
events info, and a look at other discussions of other marques, all in the
same place; humor, tools, etc., etc., etc.
It also cannot give your computer a virus since it is a website where you go
to look at the messages and to post messages -- it's not email.
You also don't have the hassle of trying to search the archives at a website
that always seems to be broken, like we have now with this list.
It just seems to me that everything would be better if we moved this whole
discussion to britishcarforum.com The benefits are real and numerous.
No one asked me to post this. I am receiving nothing for doing it, but I'm
convinced that all of the discussions that we have here would be better,
clearer, more accessible, more understandable, and better organized at
britishcarforum.com, and all without the viruses and inaccessible archives.
I know that change is sometimes difficult, and that it is always easiest to
stick with what is familiar, but I believe that if we could just overcome
inertia and make the change, everyone would quickly begin wondering why we
didn't make the move long ago.
Dare to embrace improvement and a better way! Thank you for your
consideration. I hope to read you at britishcarforum.com
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:50:23 -0800
Subject: Prices
For everyone that continues to ask about our energy and gasoline
prices here in Southern California:
1. We now have a surplus of electricity, but we still pay a premium
price.
2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon in Anaheim. Great
price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $ .99.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:07:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Prices
I live in Mono County near Rush Creek and Mono Lake at the headwaters of the
Owens River from which LA DWP long ago and long documented stole (and
continues to steal) most of it's water and a good chunk of electricity as
water flows downhill to you.
I am forced to buy "California" gas with MTBE which f's up cars and is a
known environmental hazard to water tables in the area it is most widely
distributed, which as I have mentioned is where most of SoCal gets it's
water, am I the only one who doesn't get the irony of this?
For my "attention" to your health and environment from which LA steals now
polluted water with MTBE I pay $1.79 per gallon for regular (87 octane if
I'm lucky.)
I'd either suggest you kwityerbitchin or we all band together to protest
My 0.02
Jim, '62 BT7 tri carb and Monophile
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Prices
>
> For everyone that continues to ask about our energy and gasoline
> prices here in Southern California:
>
> 1. We now have a surplus of electricity, but we still pay a premium
> price.
>
> 2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon in Anaheim. Great
> price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $ .99.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> '60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:13:10 -0800
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
Actually you're incorrect Reid on a few details. First, you CANNOT get a
virus from the mailing list, Mark strips all attachments. The reason you
could get a virus around here is because most people seem to think the best
course of action is to do a REPLY ALL, so their reply goes directly to YOU
and the list. The email they send to you, the list has no control over. If
they are infected, tag, you're it. So you have your fellow listers to thank
for any virus you may get, not the list itself.
Second, the BBS system used on the BCF site allows attachments, which CAN
potentially contain a virus. It also requires you enable Javascript in your
browser, another potential source for evil to get into your PC. (I am not
saying that either will happen, just that they are not impossible in that
environment.)
Lastly, this email list form of "push" information distribution means we
get to read the messages at our leisure, since they are D/L'd to your PC.
You don't have to be online in order to access or reply to them.
I'm not saying the forum you site isn't a good resource, I participate on
many that use the same software. But please lets keep the facts straight.
BK
---------------
At 08:36 PM 12/15/2001, you wrote:
>Hi Team,
>
>I'd like to ask your consideration of "a modest proposal."
>
>We all know what a great resource this Mail List is. It's free, it's easy,
>and it's tremendously beneficial. However, as great as it is, there is
>something even better. Much better. It is the forums (yes, yes, I know
>that the plural of forum is actually "fora") at www.britishcarforum.com
>
>British Car Forum offers everything that this mail list offers, and much
>more. It's free, it's easy, and it can be as beneficial and even more
>beneficial that is this mail list.
>
>Check it out and you'll see that the "threads" are much more clearly
>presented; that there are several forums available all at once -- like being
>subscribed to many mail lists like this one, but without all of the hassle;
>that it doesn't clog up your email inbox because you don't get emails, you
>go to a website and read all of the messages there; that it offers ads,
>events info, and a look at other discussions of other marques, all in the
>same place; humor, tools, etc., etc., etc.
>
>It also cannot give your computer a virus since it is a website where you go
>to look at the messages and to post messages -- it's not email.
>
>You also don't have the hassle of trying to search the archives at a website
>that always seems to be broken, like we have now with this list.
>
>It just seems to me that everything would be better if we moved this whole
>discussion to britishcarforum.com The benefits are real and numerous.
>
>No one asked me to post this. I am receiving nothing for doing it, but I'm
>convinced that all of the discussions that we have here would be better,
>clearer, more accessible, more understandable, and better organized at
>britishcarforum.com, and all without the viruses and inaccessible archives.
>
>I know that change is sometimes difficult, and that it is always easiest to
>stick with what is familiar, but I believe that if we could just overcome
>inertia and make the change, everyone would quickly begin wondering why we
>didn't make the move long ago.
>
>Dare to embrace improvement and a better way! Thank you for your
>consideration. I hope to read you at britishcarforum.com
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>http://www.healey.org
>http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:19:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Prices
Come on up here to the Bay Area Terry, regular is still $1.41/gal.
(Apologies to our European friends, who I'm sure can top these figures by a
mile.)
And thanks to gov Davis, we're now selling the excess electricity he locked
us into at a loss!
bk
---------------------------
At 08:50 PM 12/15/2001, you wrote:
>For everyone that continues to ask about our energy and gasoline
>prices here in Southern California:
>
>1. We now have a surplus of electricity, but we still pay a premium
>price.
>
>2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon in Anaheim. Great
>price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $ .99.
>
>Terry Blubaugh
>'60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:57:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Viruses (WAS "Re: British Car Forum")
OK, OK, I'll be the first to admit that I'm no computer guru. Heck, I even
use a Mac, so that alone tells you that there's something inherently
counterculture here, but if I just retract everything I said about viruses,
could you still be convinced of the merits of britishcarfourm.com ? :-)
Cheers,
Reid Not-a-computer-guru-and-doesn't-even-play-one-on-the-Healeys-Mail-List
Trummel
On Sat, 15 Dec 2001 21:37:24 -0800, James Hart wrote:
While I don't dispute the idea of "fora" possibly presenting a better
"forum" as threads are a good thing I would cite Ron Rader's earlier mail
virus-cum-hate crime. No form of delivery of information is necessarily
inherently more safe than another. Bots, cookies, worms, etc. can be
programmed for any of our media. The hacker shoots for bang for his buck
and targets for attack clones and sheer ignorance. Web based, email
based,
it doesn't really matter. It's about vulnerability and desireability as a
host. I am reminded of our resident humorist Carlos Cruz who indicated
that
he joined an MSFT virus forum and a Healey discussion broke out. I don't
use antivirus software and I have never had a virus because I pay
attention
to where I visit and what I am sent. If I have invited attacks or ever
forwarded one please do let me know!
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 8:36 PM
Subject: British Car Forum
>
> Hi Team,
>
> I'd like to ask your consideration of "a modest proposal."
>
> We all know what a great resource this Mail List is. It's free, it's
easy,
> and it's tremendously beneficial. However, as great as it is, there is
> something even better. Much better. It is the forums (yes, yes, I know
> that the plural of forum is actually "fora") at www.britishcarforum.com
>
> British Car Forum offers everything that this mail list offers, and much
> more. It's free, it's easy, and it can be as beneficial and even more
> beneficial that is this mail list.
>
> Check it out and you'll see that the "threads" are much more clearly
> presented; that there are several forums available all at once -- like
being
> subscribed to many mail lists like this one, but without all of the
hassle;
> that it doesn't clog up your email inbox because you don't get emails,
you
> go to a website and read all of the messages there; that it offers ads,
> events info, and a look at other discussions of other marques, all in
the
> same place; humor, tools, etc., etc., etc.
>
> It also cannot give your computer a virus since it is a website where
you
go
> to look at the messages and to post messages -- it's not email.
>
> You also don't have the hassle of trying to search the archives at a
website
> that always seems to be broken, like we have now with this list.
>
> It just seems to me that everything would be better if we moved this
whole
> discussion to britishcarforum.com The benefits are real and numerous.
>
> No one asked me to post this. I am receiving nothing for doing it, but
I'm
> convinced that all of the discussions that we have here would be better,
> clearer, more accessible, more understandable, and better organized at
> britishcarforum.com, and all without the viruses and inaccessible
archives.
>
> I know that change is sometimes difficult, and that it is always easiest
to
> stick with what is familiar, but I believe that if we could just
overcome
> inertia and make the change, everyone would quickly begin wondering why
we
> didn't make the move long ago.
>
> Dare to embrace improvement and a better way! Thank you for your
> consideration. I hope to read you at britishcarforum.com
>
> Cheers,
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> http://www.healey.org
> http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:56:28 +1100
Subject: Re: Prices
Here in Sydney, Australia, we pay around $.95 Australian pesodollars per
metric LITRE for 98 octane premium unleaded.
I just did the maths - (exchange rate of Australianpeso dollars to US $ is
.51; and litres to US Gallons is 3.78) which equates to $US 1.83 per US
gallon.
For the budget conscious, we can also buy crappy 92 octane unleaded for
about $US 1.70 a US Gallon.
At race tracks, for historic race car use only, we can buy AVGAS (110/140
leaded) for between $US 2.12 per USGallon.and $US 3.18 per US Gallon -
depending on the track.
Still - its cheaper than Europe.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 3:50 PM
Subject: Prices
///////For everyone that continues to ask about our energy and gasoline
> prices here in Southern California:////
> 2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon in Anaheim. Great
> price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $ .99.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 19:14:01 +1100
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
I agree with Bill.
I'd also like to add that Mark has implemented a great facility for us. And
as Bill has already pointed out - Mark's healeys@autox.team.net
implementation strips out all attachments - which prevents an email to the
'list' actually containing any attachment - virus or otherwise.
Which is totally different to the modifiedhealeys@yahoogroups.com email list
for example - which - because it allows 'members' to add attachments to
their emails - is a constant source of viruses (and huge multiple jpeg files
etc). I'm not knocking the nasty boys - I enjoy their emails (and used to
have a Cosworth modified twin webered 1600cc ford powered Lenham bodied
Sprite myself). But that list is more prone to viruses - as the list is
capable of mailing them.
The only answers are vigilance, regular scans with up to date antivirus
software, a personal firewall (if you have a cable connection - check
www.zonealarm.com - its free).
No - I don't work for a virus company or zonealarm - no interests etc.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
>
> Actually you're incorrect Reid on a few details. First, you CANNOT get a
> virus from the mailing list, Mark strips all attachments. The reason you
> could get a virus around here is because most people seem to think the
best
> course of action is to do a REPLY ALL, so their reply goes directly to YOU
> and the list. The email they send to you, the list has no control over. If
> they are infected, tag, you're it. So you have your fellow listers to
thank
> for any virus you may get, not the list itself.
>
> Second, the BBS system used on the BCF site allows attachments, which CAN
> potentially contain a virus. It also requires you enable Javascript in
your
> browser, another potential source for evil to get into your PC. (I am not
> saying that either will happen, just that they are not impossible in that
> environment.)
>
> Lastly, this email list form of "push" information distribution means we
> get to read the messages at our leisure, since they are D/L'd to your PC.
> You don't have to be online in order to access or reply to them.
>
> I'm not saying the forum you site isn't a good resource, I participate on
> many that use the same software. But please lets keep the facts straight.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 22:13:00 -0800
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
With all due respect to Reid, I prefer the mailing list to the
newsgroup/forum format. I 'subscribe' to a number of newsgroups and
they get the job done, but in a way that remains less personal than
does the list. In situations where there are both mailing lists and
newsgroups on a given topic, I find that the newsgroup tends to be
cuttered with extraneous crud injected by persons not interested in
the subject of the list. A moderated newsgroup is a step towards
eliminating that crud, but at the cost of delay in publishing while
the moderator(s) read and vet the posting.
Threading is a function of the email reader one uses. Mine does
threads just fine. All the postings are available to me within
minutes of their sending; I don't have to wade through a series of
requests to read each message, one at a time, in order to see what has
been posted to date on a topic.
To my perception, this list isn't 'broken' and doesn't need fixing.
-Roland Wilhelmy
Austin Healey Club of San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 10:36:53 -0000
Subject: re Prices
Hi all, The last time I put leaded into my Healey here in the UK I seem =
to
remember it being about 1.10UKP per litre 5.50UKP per gallon ($3.84 =
State
side)!!! Unleaded is currently running at about 4.25UKP per gallon =
($2.97)
Healey doesn't come out to play too often :o(
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 4:50 AM
Subject: Prices
>
> For everyone that continues to ask about our energy and gasoline
> prices here in Southern California:
>
> 1. We now have a surplus of electricity, but we still pay a premium
> price.
>
> 2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon in Anaheim. Great
> price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $ .99.
>
> Terry Blubaugh
> '60 BT7
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk=20
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Letterhead top bar small.gif]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 10:57:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Prices
In message <3C1C280F.30C7C2B5@earthlink.net>, Terry Blubaugh
<tblubaugh@earthlink.net> writes
>
>For everyone that continues to ask about our energy and gasoline
>prices here in Southern California:
>
>1. We now have a surplus of electricity, but we still pay a premium
>price.
>
>2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon in Anaheim. Great
>price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $ .99.
>
>Terry Blubaugh
>'60 BT7
>
My Healey here in the UK needs leaded, which is also around "99" -
except that that is in PENCE, and PER LITRE!!! Spare us a thought!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 09:09:41 -0600
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
Hi Roland
Your comments are right on in regard to the Healey list.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
(AHC of Manitoba )
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
>
> With all due respect to Reid, I prefer the mailing list to the
> newsgroup/forum format. I 'subscribe' to a number of newsgroups and
> they get the job done, but in a way that remains less personal than
> does the list. In situations where there are both mailing lists and
> newsgroups on a given topic, I find that the newsgroup tends to be
> cuttered with extraneous crud injected by persons not interested in
> the subject of the list. A moderated newsgroup is a step towards
> eliminating that crud, but at the cost of delay in publishing while
> the moderator(s) read and vet the posting.
>
> Threading is a function of the email reader one uses. Mine does
> threads just fine. All the postings are available to me within
> minutes of their sending; I don't have to wade through a series of
> requests to read each message, one at a time, in order to see what has
> been posted to date on a topic.
>
> To my perception, this list isn't 'broken' and doesn't need fixing.
>
> -Roland Wilhelmy
> Austin Healey Club of San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Keith <75667.1332 at compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 12:26:26 -0500
Subject: Check Garage Door Spring Safety Wires
One more thing to check when putting Ms Healey up for the winter ...
Check the safety wires that run through the large long springs that may
help lift your garage door ... the ones that stretch parallel to the
tracks. Had one break at 4 am the other night right over Ms Healey.
Sounded like a 'Daisy Cutter' went off. Fourtunately, the 1/8th" aircraft
safety wire held most of the pieces parts in place ... it was anchored
securely enough at both ends. And Ms Healey was fine though shaken. But
it's OK to talk to her when no-one's around, right? She _is_ a good
listener, right?
Don't mess with a "torsion" spring garage door lift if you have one of
those ... get a pro.
Bob's my Uncle!
(But what else should I know?)
Keith Elmund '65-BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:08:55 EST
Subject: BT7 Hardtop - England
I received the following inquiry through my web site. Stuart is looking for a
BT7 hardtop in the UK or US. Please respond directly to <A
HREF="mailto:annstuart@madasafish.com";>
annstuart@madasafish.com</A> if you can help.
J. Werner
<< Do I understand from this that hard tops for 2 + 2 cars are reasonably
easy to obtain in the States as those of the "works" type seem to be few and
far between over here? I suspect that this may well be the case as the
majority of Austin Healeys were exported from here to the US of A.
As you can probably gather from the above comment, I am looking for a "Works"
Hard Top for my BT7 car in reasonable to good condition and was wondering if
you know of anyone who has such a thing for sale. If so, could you arrange
for them to contact me so that we can discuss a possible price and the
interesting task of transporting it to me if a suitable arrangement can be
agreed. I say interesting because, as you will have gathered, I live on the
other side of the pond in the county of Kent in Southern England.
Any help you can give me will be much appreciated such as the potential of
finding a suitable hard top, the anticipated price I would have to pay for a
useable "works" model, the possible transportation cost to the UK and the
like.
Many thanks in anticipation of an early reply and for your excellent web
site.
Kind Regards,
Stuart (Hodgson) >>>
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:10:16 EST
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
In a message dated 12/15/01 8:37:52 PM, AHCUSA@excite.com writes:
<< British Car Forum offers everything that this mail list offers, and much
more. It's free, it's easy, and it can be as beneficial and even more
beneficial that is this mail list. >>
After the formum had been advertising in British Car Magazine for several
months, I finally registered and tried it. Aside from the overwhelming
cuteness of the icons (especially the moving ones) I found the format easy to
use. As a result, I have established a forum on the facility specifically for
readers of British Car Magazine.
There is no commercial backing to this forum so that's not an issue to worry
about. The only major drawback is numbers, yet. There aren't nearly as many
folks by a factor of 10 or 20 on the Britishcarforum lists, so the chance of
putting out a question and getting back a knowledgable answer will be limited
for some while yet. On the other hand, as Reid points out, the messages don't
land on your computer, so they don't clog your mail box and they don't carry
viruses.
Just sharing what I know.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 10:14:59 -0800
Subject: Rear Differential Servicing
Dear Healey Discussion Board-
I will be changing the oil in my Differential today and wondered if anyone
had a recommendation as for weight and kind? The manual illustrates using
"Hypoid" oil only. I haven't a clue what Hypoid means although I really
enjoy saying it.
Thanks!
Matt-
61 BT7 with 3.545 Rear Axle Ratio
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:43:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear Differential Servicing
Hi Poid....I mean Hi Matt:
The term "Hypoid" originates in the type of gear profile used in the diff.
Castrol makes hypoid oil, and is available at some auto parts stores. I
suppose there are other brands which are suitable also. I have always used
the Castrol.....Many years, many miles and nary a problem.
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 15:27:56 -0500
Subject: alternator bj8
I just completed installing alternator and my ignition warning light stays on
even though it is charging? Also, with ignition switch in the on position, the
alternator becomes warm to the touch? ( FYI, neg ground, battery side of
alternator to starter solenoid, r on alternator to tach, f on alternator to
battery of alternator, regulator not used and wires spliced together. Any help
appreciated.
Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 13:38:25 -0800
Subject: seat belts
Listers,
I just ordered and received retractable 3 point seat belts from BCS,
but I not sure I made the right choice. I'm not convinced these are
what I want. I know that they aren't original etc., but I understand
that installing retractable type is a more comfortable choice than the
original style 3 point belts if you plan on driving the car. I'd like
to hear from those listers that have nonretractable style 3 point
belts that have an opinion as to there comfort.
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett
BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:23:23 -0500
Subject: Matching Car Keys
Listers,
I would like to know how I can get the ignition, door, trunk and glove box
keys to all match. The only key I have ever had is the ignition key, and it
doesn't even fit the other key holes (it has "Lucas" and a number stamped
on it). It would be really nice to lock the trunk and to unlock the doors if
they ever locked spontaneously :-)
I have gone to the trouble of getting a BMIHT Production Record, and it
shows the key number for my car. How do I tell if the locks on my '67 BJ8
match that key number? And if they don't match, how do I go about "changing
the locks" so to speak, so that everything matches the key number on the
trace certificate?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:51:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear Differential Servicing
Use any 80/90; get an oil pump, drop the drain plug,hold your nose,
replace the drain plug, remove filler plug, spuirt in 80/90 till it runs out
hole, replace filler plug, remove car from jacks.
Happy Healeying, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Wilson <mwilson7@san.rr.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 12:14 PM
Subject: Rear Differential Servicing
>
> Dear Healey Discussion Board-
> I will be changing the oil in my Differential today and wondered if anyone
> had a recommendation as for weight and kind? The manual illustrates using
> "Hypoid" oil only. I haven't a clue what Hypoid means although I really
> enjoy saying it.
> Thanks!
> Matt-
> 61 BT7 with 3.545 Rear Axle Ratio
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:53:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Matching Car Keys
Hi, John -
The number given on the BMIHT certificate is for the ignition key. The
ignition switch on the dash should have a number stamped into the visible
part of the lock cylinder that matches the number on the certificate. My
car came to me without a glovebox key, and I still don't have one, but there
is a number stamped on that lock cylinder also. With those numbers, there
are several "key guys" around who might be able to make a key for you to
match. Try Pete Groh: groh@yahoo.com
Pete can also probably answer your other questions about the keys and locks.
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 5:23 PM
Subject: Matching Car Keys
>
> Listers,
>
> I would like to know how I can get the ignition, door, trunk and glove box
> keys to all match. The only key I have ever had is the ignition key, and
it
> doesn't even fit the other key holes (it has "Lucas" and a number stamped
> on it). It would be really nice to lock the trunk and to unlock the doors
if
> they ever locked spontaneously :-)
>
> I have gone to the trouble of getting a BMIHT Production Record, and it
> shows the key number for my car. How do I tell if the locks on my '67 BJ8
> match that key number? And if they don't match, how do I go about
"changing
> the locks" so to speak, so that everything matches the key number on the
> trace certificate?
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 18:37:25 -0500
Subject: alternator bj8
I figured out what was wrong with the alternator that I installed!! I went
back to ADVANCE AUTO PARTS to confirm that I had the correct alternator, and
they did not convert the Napa part number correctly, which gave me a
alternator without internal regulator!! Thank goodness I didn't burn my car
up.
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:50:17 -0600
Subject: Matching Car Keys
I had all of my locks/keys matched. Take out all of your locks and carry
them to a local locksmith. They are an old type with various "blades" that
can be set for the key signature. An old time locksmith should have the
ability and materials to do the job.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:08:39 -0800
Subject: Healey sighting Socal
Today (Sunday) while we were walking on the cliffs overlooking
Dana Point harbor I heard a very familiar note.
By the time I could walk to the edge and look down I only saw the
rear end of what I think was a white 100-6 heading south.
Any lister driving?
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:37:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Hub Seals
Terry -
Thankfully, replacing the rear seals can be a
relatively quick job - I think I can do both sides in
an hour or less in total ... but in general I'm a
pretty fast worker.
Key things to remember -
1) pull the old seals out carfully - the hub's metal
is somewhat soft and things like screwdrivers will
scratch the surfaces. Best to use a seal puller if
you have one.
2) definitely also get a new paper axle gasket &
rubber o-ring. It is CRITICAL for you to buy a proper
paper gasket from a healey supplier because it has a
particular size - substituting an improper paper
gasket may cause additional wear and tear on your axle
parts.
good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "terry s." <tvett68@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Listers, would appreciate any input/advice re my
> winter project: started to
> up-grade braking system and observed rear seals
> leaking when drums and hub
> extensions were removed(wire wheels). No indication
> of leaking on old shoes
> and inside of drums. Now would be the time to remove
> and replace seals with
> new. Work shop manual refers to all kinds of special
> tools to pull
> hubs,seals,etc. Any advice would be most
> appreciated.
> Loving my newly heated garage in the now frozen
> tundra,
> Terry
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 16:43:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: seat belts
Mark -
I used to have kangol retractables on my BJ8 and I
finally got rid of them. I don't really think they
were all that great and not necessarily all that
comfortable.
I finally got a set of those Moss clip on three point
belts and they are fantastic. That combined with
British Car specialist's custom healey rear
fender-well two-bolt seat-belt mount... and the car
looks absolutely beautifully original.
The Moss belts' (BCS has them) manual adjustment is
fine - and once you get them adjusted you don't need
to futz with them too much.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 Bj8
--- Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net> wrote:
>
> Listers,
> I just ordered and received retractable 3 point
> seat belts from BCS,
> but I not sure I made the right choice. I'm not
> convinced these are
> what I want. I know that they aren't original etc.,
> but I understand
> that installing retractable type is a more
> comfortable choice than the
> original style 3 point belts if you plan on driving
> the car. I'd like
> to hear from those listers that have nonretractable
> style 3 point
> belts that have an opinion as to there comfort.
> Thanks,
> Mark Fawcett
> BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 17:02:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Prices & the Arabs!!!!!!
Well -
#1 Here in Hong Kong the price is about $5 a gallon.
I'm tired of any American anywhere in the US bitching
about prices!!!! (at least the gas here is 99 octane!)
#2 I'm tired of the Arabs crapping all over the West
after we keep buying their dirty, blood-stained oil.
Although I hope everyone keeps driving their healeys,
I also hope most listers consider buying hybrids,
alternative energy, and high mileage vehicles for
their #2 car. (Who knows, it might be good fun to
convert my 100/4 to a hybrid for kicks) For my part
95% of my commuting is done on public transportation.
I sure would love to see the west energy independent
of the Middle East within a decade... The happiest
day of my life will be when all the Arabs head back
out to live in bedouin tents in the dunes because oil
is worth $2 a barrel due to lack of demand.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
> Here in Sydney, Australia, we pay around $.95
> Australian pesodollars per
> metric LITRE for 98 octane premium unleaded.
>
> I just did the maths - (exchange rate of
> Australianpeso dollars to US $ is
> .51; and litres to US Gallons is 3.78) which equates
> to $US 1.83 per US
> gallon.
>
> For the budget conscious, we can also buy crappy 92
> octane unleaded for
> about $US 1.70 a US Gallon.
>
> At race tracks, for historic race car use only, we
> can buy AVGAS (110/140
> leaded) for between $US 2.12 per USGallon.and $US
> 3.18 per US Gallon -
> depending on the track.
>
> Still - its cheaper than Europe.
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 3:50 PM
> Subject: Prices
>
> ///////For everyone that continues to ask about our
> energy and gasoline
> > prices here in Southern California:////
> > 2. ARCO is pumping unleaded 87 for $ .93/gallon
> in Anaheim. Great
> > price, but my Healey needs at least 89 octane at $
> .99.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 20:24:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear Axle Hub Seals
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
Hi Terry,
The most difficult part of replacing the rear seals is removing the 2
3/16" octagonal nut that holds the rear bearing onto the axle casing.
The left side one is left hand thread.
Please do not attack the nut with a cold chisel. There was a recent
posting that gave a source for a hex socket that apparently will do the
job.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
--- "terry s." <tvett68@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Listers, would appreciate any input/advice re my
> winter project: started to
> up-grade braking system and observed rear seals
> leaking when drums and hub
> extensions were removed(wire wheels). No indication
> of leaking on old shoes
> and inside of drums. Now would be the time to remove
> and replace seals with
> new. Work shop manual refers to all kinds of special
> tools to pull
> hubs,seals,etc. Any advice would be most
> appreciated.
> Loving my newly heated garage in the now frozen
> tundra,
> Terry
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 20:33:29 EST
Subject: Re: seat belts
In a message dated 12/16/01 1:43:10 PM, fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<< but I understand
that installing retractable type is a more comfortable choice than the
original style 3 point belts if you plan on driving the car. I'd like
to hear from those listers that have nonretractable style 3 point
belts that have an opinion as to there comfort. >>
I've had the standard three-point belts on for many years. The only problem
is one of convenience. You have to untangle the belt from behind the seat,
figure out which side is up and how the belt got twisted that way in the
first place, and then get it undone before you can put it on. I don't have a
problem, having long since memorized the move where I drop the shoulder belt
over the B-Pillar as I get out, then drop it back over the seat back before
closing the door, but for some reason my wife can't manage that and forgets
how the belt goes on whenever she gets in.
On the other hand, I think the retractable reels look sort of clunky, but are
functional, I guess.
Cheers
gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 02:46:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygear
Bill,
The rebuilt ones doesn4t necessarily fail but they wear very quickly and after
a few miles one ends up with a first gear that is just as worn as the one
replaced.
The new milled ones cost around 400 dollars. The repaired ones goes for around
150 dollars
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 21:11:10 EST
Subject: gearbox front seal
Hi All, does someone have the size or even better a part number for the seal
conversion for the front cover for a 3-speed BN1 gearbox? Thanks for any help.
Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <ahcusa at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 18:19:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
Hi Team,
Thanks very much for the comments, both public and private, in response to
my suggestion to consider British Car Forum. Please allow me to add just a
few points before we end the discussion for now:
-- Posts made to the Forum are posted *immediately* -- there is never the
delay of minutes, hours, or even overnight sometimes like I have experienced
on this Mail List. The Forum is faster. Way faster. No comparison.
-- A "thread" on the Forum is displayed all at once, in order of posting.
You see the original message and all of the responses all on one page. You
just scroll down and read them all as you like. Makes it easy to scan for a
particular bit of info, to follow the discussion, and to see what people are
referring to. How many times has someone posted a message to a Mail List
like "I agree!" and everyone just wonders what in the world they are
referring to. Doesn't happen on a Forum. No trying to remember who said
what, or if the
question has already been answered, etc. The whole conversation stays right
there, immediately accessible and viewable.
-- There are no archives to breakdown. The threads are all right there, all
the time, always up to date.
-- You can look at the list of subjects that have been raised, add a comment
of your own -- even to older threads that have been idle for some time, or
start a new topic. No need to re-start a thread; you can just add to an old
thread and preserve everything that was said before. You see a menu of
topics, something that doesn't exist
on a Mail List.
-- On the Mail List if you remember something that was discussed at one
time, it is nearly impossible to go back and see what was said. Even when
the archives are working, it is often difficult to re-assemble old
discussions. On the Forum they remain right there, ready to be referenced,
and even ready to be added to or continued.
-- There are also Forums for other marques all right there, and you can look
at those and participate in those just the same as the Austin-Healey forum.
-- There are also Forums for events, classified ads, tools, car care, humor,
etc., etc. Don't find the subject/forum that you would like? Tell the
operator of the site and I'll bet he'll add it. "Basil" -- as the
owner/operate calls himself on the Forum -- is a very accomodating guy.
-- You can also send private messages to people who post, in cases where you
don't want your response to be posted on the forum.
-- You like a personal touch? It doesn't get much more personal than seeing
your post right there in the thread with those of your friends and
neighbors, and your post will appear immediately!
-- When new people join and ask questions that have been addressed before,
with a Mail List someone usually tells them to go check the archives (which
usually aren't working, and someone new to all of this probably isn't to
adept at finding and searching archives anyway). With a Fourm they just
find the topic and read all of the old posts without bothering anyone, and
without the exasperation of trying to open and search the archives. The
threads stay there like articles posted to a website... which of course is
what they become. E-Mail threads are ephemeral. Forum posts have lasting
value.
-- You can lurk on a Forum just like you can in e-mail.
-- I'm REALLY not looking to start a discussion of viruses again, and I
guess we have established that it is theoretically possible to get viruses
from websites. But ask yourself this: how many viruses have you received,
heard of, bought software to protect against, etc., that come from e-mails
versus the number from websites. I rest my case.
-- Using the forum doesn't mean that we have to abandon the Mail List, but
before making up your mind, please at least TRY the forum. Register, post
something,
respond to something, post an event listing, post an ad. Please ACTUALLY
TRY IT before deciding that nothing could beat a Mail List. You might be as
surprised as I was at the many virtues of britishcarforum.com
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 19:04:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Laygear
I have been running a rebuilt laygear sence 1990 with no problems in a
tranny I rebuilt myself. It is very quite and functions smoothly.
Bob '62 BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
----------
>From: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>
>To: "Healey Lista" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Laygear
>Date: Sun, Dec 16, 2001, 5:46 PM
>
>
> Bill,
>
> The rebuilt ones doesn4t necessarily fail but they wear very quickly and
> after a few miles one ends up with a first gear that is just as worn as the
> one replaced.
>
> The new milled ones cost around 400 dollars. The repaired ones goes for
> around 150 dollars
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> Sweden
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 19:51:03 -0800
Subject: virus-cum-hate crime.
While I don't dispute the idea of "fora" possibly presenting a better
"forum" as threads are a good thing I would cite Ron Rader's earlier mail
virus-cum-hate crime. No form of delivery of information is necessarily
inherently more safe than another. Bots, cookies, worms, etc. can be
programmed for any of our media. The hacker shoots for bang for his buck
and targets for attack clones and sheer ignorance. Web based, email
based, it doesn't really matter. <snip> Jim
Ok who is Jim and what exactly did I say or do?
Not that I didn't say or do it, but I sure cant remember what you have quoted.
Ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 20:24:52 -0800
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
Reid, I think we all know the relative benefits and pitfalls of each form
of communications, and which we'd prefer. If you look at the BCF, you'll
see a total of 41 Healey-related topics posted since December of last year.
Not exactly a hotbed of activity.
As for not being able to reference old posts on this list, that's easily
solvable, just save all the ones that you think you'll want. I currently
have 2633 posts from this list, and it takes up ~8MB of disk space, hardly
a big deal. It takes me less than 10 seconds to search through the posts
I've saved. And Mark also has a digest version you can get for the list.
So your point has been made, and people will make their own choices, I say
let's move on.
-------------------------------------
At 06:19 PM 12/16/2001, you wrote:
>Hi Team,
>
>Thanks very much for the comments, both public and private, in response to
>my suggestion to consider British Car Forum. Please allow me to add just a
>few points before we end the discussion for now:
>
>-- Posts made to the Forum are posted *immediately* -- there is never the
>delay of minutes, hours, or even overnight sometimes like I have experienced
>on this Mail List. The Forum is faster. Way faster. No comparison.
>
>-- A "thread" on the Forum is displayed all at once, in order of posting.
>You see the original message and all of the responses all on one page. You
>just scroll down and read them all as you like. Makes it easy to scan for a
>particular bit of info, to follow the discussion, and to see what people are
>referring to. How many times has someone posted a message to a Mail List
>like "I agree!" and everyone just wonders what in the world they are
>referring to. Doesn't happen on a Forum. No trying to remember who said
>what, or if the
>question has already been answered, etc. The whole conversation stays right
>there, immediately accessible and viewable.
>
>-- There are no archives to breakdown. The threads are all right there, all
>the time, always up to date.
>
>-- You can look at the list of subjects that have been raised, add a comment
>of your own -- even to older threads that have been idle for some time, or
>start a new topic. No need to re-start a thread; you can just add to an old
>thread and preserve everything that was said before. You see a menu of
>topics, something that doesn't exist
>on a Mail List.
>
>-- On the Mail List if you remember something that was discussed at one
>time, it is nearly impossible to go back and see what was said. Even when
>the archives are working, it is often difficult to re-assemble old
>discussions. On the Forum they remain right there, ready to be referenced,
>and even ready to be added to or continued.
>
>-- There are also Forums for other marques all right there, and you can look
>at those and participate in those just the same as the Austin-Healey forum.
>
>
>-- There are also Forums for events, classified ads, tools, car care, humor,
>etc., etc. Don't find the subject/forum that you would like? Tell the
>operator of the site and I'll bet he'll add it. "Basil" -- as the
>owner/operate calls himself on the Forum -- is a very accomodating guy.
>
>-- You can also send private messages to people who post, in cases where you
>don't want your response to be posted on the forum.
>
>-- You like a personal touch? It doesn't get much more personal than seeing
>your post right there in the thread with those of your friends and
>neighbors, and your post will appear immediately!
>
>-- When new people join and ask questions that have been addressed before,
>with a Mail List someone usually tells them to go check the archives (which
>usually aren't working, and someone new to all of this probably isn't to
>adept at finding and searching archives anyway). With a Fourm they just
>find the topic and read all of the old posts without bothering anyone, and
>without the exasperation of trying to open and search the archives. The
>threads stay there like articles posted to a website... which of course is
>what they become. E-Mail threads are ephemeral. Forum posts have lasting
>value.
>
>-- You can lurk on a Forum just like you can in e-mail.
>
>-- I'm REALLY not looking to start a discussion of viruses again, and I
>guess we have established that it is theoretically possible to get viruses
>from websites. But ask yourself this: how many viruses have you received,
>heard of, bought software to protect against, etc., that come from e-mails
>versus the number from websites. I rest my case.
>
>-- Using the forum doesn't mean that we have to abandon the Mail List, but
>before making up your mind, please at least TRY the forum. Register, post
>something,
>respond to something, post an event listing, post an ad. Please ACTUALLY
>TRY IT before deciding that nothing could beat a Mail List. You might be as
>surprised as I was at the many virtues of britishcarforum.com
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>http://www.healey.org
>http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 20:52:53 -0800
Subject: Re: seat belts
(This is a repeat 'Send'. I didn't delete the trailer on the first one and
wasn't sure if it would go through)
Mark: I have 3 point non-retractable belts in my BJ8. Original equipment
as far as I know. I do not have a problem with comfort. The only
disadvantage is if I want to reach for something (e.g., glove box) I have to
unfasten the belt. If I am cruising the interstate, I can loosen them up a
little if necessary. On the other hand, if I am going to be driving in
situations were I need to be secure in the seat (curvy two lane roads,
autocrossing, on a race track, etc.), then I can pull them snug to limit my
body movement.
The Other Len, BJ8 39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 1:38 PM
Subject: seat belts
>
> Listers,
> I just ordered and received retractable 3 point seat belts from BCS,
> but I not sure I made the right choice. I'm not convinced these are
> what I want. I know that they aren't original etc., but I understand
> that installing retractable type is a more comfortable choice than the
> original style 3 point belts if you plan on driving the car. I'd like
> to hear from those listers that have nonretractable style 3 point
> belts that have an opinion as to there comfort.
> Thanks,
> Mark Fawcett
> BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 21:37:40 -0800
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
Hi Bill,
When you say that Mark has a digest version you can get for the list, do you
mean
a collection of all the healey list messages? or just that you can get the list
in digest form such as once a day?
I've only been on this list for a couple of years. It's great to go to the
ListQuest archives and read all the old threads on subjects that I am interested
in. It seems like all areas of the car were discussed in great detail at one
time
or another.Unfortunately, listquest seems to be down most of the time now.
I have saved many messages but it would be great to have the whole collection.
You just never know what the area of the car will need some expert advice.
Regards,
John
Bill Katz wrote:
> Reid, I think we all know the relative benefits and pitfalls of each form
> of communications, and which we'd prefer. If you look at the BCF, you'll
> see a total of 41 Healey-related topics posted since December of last year.
> Not exactly a hotbed of activity.
>
> As for not being able to reference old posts on this list, that's easily
> solvable, just save all the ones that you think you'll want. I currently
> have 2633 posts from this list, and it takes up ~8MB of disk space, hardly
> a big deal. It takes me less than 10 seconds to search through the posts
> I've saved. And Mark also has a digest version you can get for the list.
>
> So your point has been made, and people will make their own choices, I say
> let's move on.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:18:11 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 Hardtop - England
I've seen one of each type for sale on eBay in the last month. In addition I
saw Universal
Laminations top for my 100 which I coveted greatly, but alas as usual I was
broke. Oh well, maybe
next time.
Bill Lawrence
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> I received the following inquiry through my web site. Stuart is looking for a
> BT7 hardtop in the UK or US. Please respond directly to <A
>HREF="mailto:annstuart@madasafish.com";>
> annstuart@madasafish.com</A> if you can help.
> J. Werner
>
> << Do I understand from this that hard tops for 2 + 2 cars are reasonably
> easy to obtain in the States as those of the "works" type seem to be few and
> far between over here? I suspect that this may well be the case as the
> majority of Austin Healeys were exported from here to the US of A.
>
> As you can probably gather from the above comment, I am looking for a "Works"
> Hard Top for my BT7 car in reasonable to good condition and was wondering if
> you know of anyone who has such a thing for sale. If so, could you arrange
> for them to contact me so that we can discuss a possible price and the
> interesting task of transporting it to me if a suitable arrangement can be
> agreed. I say interesting because, as you will have gathered, I live on the
> other side of the pond in the county of Kent in Southern England.
>
> Any help you can give me will be much appreciated such as the potential of
> finding a suitable hard top, the anticipated price I would have to pay for a
> useable "works" model, the possible transportation cost to the UK and the
> like.
>
> Many thanks in anticipation of an early reply and for your excellent web
> site.
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Stuart (Hodgson) >>>
>
>
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
>
> Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 01:23:30 EST
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Mark,
I purchased nonretractable three point belts from BCS about eight months ago
and installed them and love them. I find them very comfortable to drive
with, including 1,200 miles to Grants Pass Healey last July Rendezvous. I
sat in several cars with retractable belts before I installing the
nonretractable in my car and did not like the constant firm tug of the
retractable kind. I guess I don't quite trust the after market retractable
type to retract either.
Vroooomm Vrooomm,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:31:08 -0800
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Thanks for all of the feed back regarding the retractable seat belt
issue. Based on the consensus and the fact that I just didn't like
the looks of them. I will be returning them to BCS and ordering the
non retractable type.
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 23:18:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Mark -
One last tip - spend the extra 15 bucks and get the
clip-in belts (rather than the bolt-ins), the bolt-ins
take alot of effort to install, where as the clip-ins
take only a couple minutes!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all of the feed back regarding the
> retractable seat belt
> issue. Based on the consensus and the fact that I
> just didn't like
> the looks of them. I will be returning them to BCS
> and ordering the
> non retractable type.
> Thanks,
> Mark Fawcett
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 05:58:34 -0500
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Mark,
I also have 3 point installed for a couple years and find them comfortable.
They look original and don't interfere with lowering the squab(fold down
deck on BJ8). I don't know if that's a problem. It looked like it to me?
Warren
67 BJ8
>From: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: seat belts Response
>Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 22:31:08 -0800
>
>Thanks for all of the feed back regarding the retractable seat belt
>issue. Based on the consensus and the fact that I just didn't like
>the looks of them. I will be returning them to BCS and ordering the
>non retractable type.
>Thanks,
>Mark Fawcett
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 09:33:22 EST
Subject: Re: AHCA 100 Register
Hi Bill:
I wasn't originally querying club cooperation. I just wanted to know about
how many 100s are still out there. Although, now that you bring it up, a
worldwide registry supported by all the clubs could be way cool.
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
In a message dated 12/15/01 9:14:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
healeybill@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Hope this answers the queries about the Club cooperation.
Bill Wood >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 08:34:02 -0600
Subject: Re: British Car Forum
Good morning Bill!
When I looked early this summer there were very few posts on the
BCF, somewhere around 25-30 if memory serves, most of limited
interest. In an exchange with the fellow who initiated this idea
a year or more ago, the posts I no longer have, he could not
supply me with a suitable reason to leave the Team.net lists. I
suggested to him I wasn't happy with this type of activity as I
had witnessed similar activity by an individual on the Morgan
list and on the MSCC list which basically brought both lists down
to a bare trickle of activity.
Like you I have a small directory set aside for posts per Healey
"anatomy" (steering, transmissions, SUs, etc.), Clubs, individual
correspondence arising from items on the list and related topics.
These total 2975 posts for the last 14 months, I'm not sure what
those I've delete add up to.
John's (Loftus) experience is similar to mine, like John I found
Listquest a useful ancillary source to the Healey List,
unfortunately the company which took over Listquest 15 months ago
no longer exists. This latter item is according to a friend who
was once involved with Listquest.
As like you, Roland earlier who suggested the Healey list more
than adequately serves most that participate, as with many
hobbies the more you put into a hobby the more you gain and
learn.
Kind regards an Seasons Greetings
Ed
Saskatoon
Bill Katz wrote:
>
> Reid, I think we all know the relative benefits and pitfalls of each form
> of communications, and which we'd prefer. If you look at the BCF, you'll
> see a total of 41 Healey-related topics posted since December of last year.
> Not exactly a hotbed of activity.
>
> As for not being able to reference old posts on this list, that's easily
> solvable, just save all the ones that you think you'll want. I currently
> have 2633 posts from this list, and it takes up ~8MB of disk space, hardly
> a big deal. It takes me less than 10 seconds to search through the posts
> I've saved. And Mark also has a digest version you can get for the list.
>
> So your point has been made, and people will make their own choices, I say
> let's move on.
>
> -------------------------------------
> At 06:19 PM 12/16/2001, you wrote:
>
> >Hi Team,
> >
> >Thanks very much for the comments, both public and private, in response to
> >my suggestion to consider British Car Forum. Please allow me to add just a
> >few points before we end the discussion for now:
> >
> >-- Posts made to the Forum are posted *immediately* -- there is never the
> >delay of minutes, hours, or even overnight sometimes like I have experienced
> >on this Mail List. The Forum is faster. Way faster. No comparison.
> >
> >-- A "thread" on the Forum is displayed all at once, in order of posting.
> >You see the original message and all of the responses all on one page. You
> >just scroll down and read them all as you like. Makes it easy to scan for a
> >particular bit of info, to follow the discussion, and to see what people are
> >referring to. How many times has someone posted a message to a Mail List
> >like "I agree!" and everyone just wonders what in the world they are
> >referring to. Doesn't happen on a Forum. No trying to remember who said
> >what, or if the
> >question has already been answered, etc. The whole conversation stays right
> >there, immediately accessible and viewable.
> >
> >-- There are no archives to breakdown. The threads are all right there, all
> >the time, always up to date.
> >
> >-- You can look at the list of subjects that have been raised, add a comment
> >of your own -- even to older threads that have been idle for some time, or
> >start a new topic. No need to re-start a thread; you can just add to an old
> >thread and preserve everything that was said before. You see a menu of
> >topics, something that doesn't exist
> >on a Mail List.
> >
> >-- On the Mail List if you remember something that was discussed at one
> >time, it is nearly impossible to go back and see what was said. Even when
> >the archives are working, it is often difficult to re-assemble old
> >discussions. On the Forum they remain right there, ready to be referenced,
> >and even ready to be added to or continued.
> >
> >-- There are also Forums for other marques all right there, and you can look
> >at those and participate in those just the same as the Austin-Healey forum.
> >
> >
> >-- There are also Forums for events, classified ads, tools, car care, humor,
> >etc., etc. Don't find the subject/forum that you would like? Tell the
> >operator of the site and I'll bet he'll add it. "Basil" -- as the
> >owner/operate calls himself on the Forum -- is a very accomodating guy.
> >
> >-- You can also send private messages to people who post, in cases where you
> >don't want your response to be posted on the forum.
> >
> >-- You like a personal touch? It doesn't get much more personal than seeing
> >your post right there in the thread with those of your friends and
> >neighbors, and your post will appear immediately!
> >
> >-- When new people join and ask questions that have been addressed before,
> >with a Mail List someone usually tells them to go check the archives (which
> >usually aren't working, and someone new to all of this probably isn't to
> >adept at finding and searching archives anyway). With a Fourm they just
> >find the topic and read all of the old posts without bothering anyone, and
> >without the exasperation of trying to open and search the archives. The
> >threads stay there like articles posted to a website... which of course is
> >what they become. E-Mail threads are ephemeral. Forum posts have lasting
> >value.
> >
> >-- You can lurk on a Forum just like you can in e-mail.
> >
> >-- I'm REALLY not looking to start a discussion of viruses again, and I
> >guess we have established that it is theoretically possible to get viruses
> >from websites. But ask yourself this: how many viruses have you received,
> >heard of, bought software to protect against, etc., that come from e-mails
> >versus the number from websites. I rest my case.
> >
> >-- Using the forum doesn't mean that we have to abandon the Mail List, but
> >before making up your mind, please at least TRY the forum. Register, post
> >something,
> >respond to something, post an event listing, post an ad. Please ACTUALLY
> >TRY IT before deciding that nothing could beat a Mail List. You might be as
> >surprised as I was at the many virtues of britishcarforum.com
> >
> >Cheers,
> >Reid Trummel
> >http://www.healey.org
> >http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kbah100 at cs.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 10:01:01 EST
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
I have a three point non-adjustable harness and it is terrible. You can't
moveif it's tight and if you loosen it it falls off your shoulder. I have a
retractable set from Andover Seat Belt and can't wait to change them out.
Once you get use to the convenience of the retractables I can't see how you
could live with the fixed type.
Ken Beck
BJ7
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 10:10:10 -0500
Subject: BCF
I've kept away from this thread but now feel that I must make just one small
point. The BCF, or any forum, needs a critical mass in order to succeed. Just
think of what our Healey List would be like if it had only 10-15 subscribers
instead of the over 300 that we now have. IMHO, the BCF will not be able to be
compared to the Healey List until such time as it has sufficient members to
sustain any meaningful dialogue. Plutonium will not explode until the critical
mass is put together and then, look out. The same applies to the BCF.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 15:46:20
Subject: Rear Seals Up Date
Just a "quickie" to thank all on the list for their comments/advice to
my inquiry. This List is a tremendous resource!
Thanks Again,
Terry
BN7 (Madison, Wi.)
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 11:25:24 -0500
Subject: Test (Sorry for inconvenience)
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 11:52:11 EST
Subject: Starter Questions
I had the starter for my BJ-8 rebuilt and it bench tested ok. Installed it
and couldn't get it to turn over. So I put the car in a friend's shop. The
starter still won't turn the car over but bench tests ok. Engine turns over
easily by hand. Connections are cool but the starter draws excessive amps.
Starter will also not turn over when installed and the solonoid is jumped.
We believe that the starter is still bad. Any suggestions of obscure Lucas
connected causes that might also be involved?
Thanks and have a happy holiday season.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
AHCA/AHCUSA
JohnbS7257@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:52:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygear
Robert,
Have you ever opened your gearbox since 1990 to inspect the rebuilt laygear?
Magnus Karlsson
> I have been running a rebuilt laygear sence 1990 with no problems in a
> tranny I rebuilt myself. It is very quite and functions smoothly.
>
> Bob '62 BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:48:44 +0000
Subject: 100 Registries- A new Development
To : All interested 100 owners
I would like you please to comment on, and/or participate in, an
experiment.
Many readers will know that for some years I have been attempting to
sell the benefits of an International 100 Register. Most people agree
with the advantages but also accept that it is far more difficult to
make this work. We have offered for some time to provide the facilty for
100s and many Clubs and in particular the AHCA have cooperated in this
venture.
Now to an experiment. Because of the current interest I have brought
forward a development which might provide a way forward but would not
break any law or confidence that I am aware of. On our WEB site I have
provided a list of all our recorded 100 chassis numbers. The extract was
taken from a database dated June 2001 so if anybody has provided
information since that date your chassis number will not be included at
this time. I have not even created a link from the main site as yet and
it will therefore be necessary to access the page directly at
www.jharper.demon.co.uk/chassis1.htm
If 100 readers feel inclined please give this a try and see if we have
anything recorded about your car. If so then what you have provided in
the past is securely recorded. If not and if you have not sent us
anything during the last 6 months then please feel free to send us your
details by accessing
www.jharper.demon.co.uk/100reg1.htm
If you have reason to believe that our records are incomplete or out of
date then please let us know by sending a new registration. However I
must warn that if this new initiative is successful we may not have the
effort available to acknowledge new or updated registrations on an
individual basis.
If you have any other constructive comments we would be pleased to hear
from you. We are aware that the chassis list, page layout needs
improving but any other suggestions would be welcome.
All the best
>
>As far as I can tell there are three main 100 registries:
>
>je.adams@worldnet.att.net (Ed Adams) for AHCUSA, just started about July;
>
>healeybill@worldnet.att.net (Bill Wood Jr) for AHCA, who seems to have lots
>of original factory information; and
>
>john@jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) for UKAHC.
>
>It would seem to be a straight-forward procedure to tell us how many 100s are
>known to exist by each registry. I know of 62 BN1s and 34 BN2s just from
>this mailing list. A quick glance shows between 100 and 200 BN1s listed in
>the AHCA Membership Directory. I see about 84 BN1s listed in California in
>the AHCUSA Resource Book. We know there were over 10,000 BN1s and BN2s made.
>
>John Harper made some guestimates back in April, but I'd really be interested
>to know how many 100s are still around/accounted for.
>
>Steve
>'54 BN1 Brutus
>Up on blocks in Chico, CA
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 12:06:24 -0800
Subject: List archiving (was British Car Forum)
I believe Mark's digests are of the once-a-day variety. However, I just
came across a site that does what looks to be a pretty good job of
archiving and indexing mailing list data. I've sent a note to MJB to see if
he's interested in subscribing this site to his lists. It's the closest
thing to ListQuest I've been able to find so far. Depending on if MJB has
been saving all old posts, there may be a way for him to upload them in
bulk to the www.mail-archive.com site, which would be very cool. Barring
that, at least going forward it would archive future messages. I could
subscribe the Healey list to the service myself, but don't feel it's my
place to do so. That's why I've written to Mark about this. Hopefully he'll
respond soon.
BK
----------------------------
At 09:37 PM 12/16/2001, you wrote:
>Hi Bill,
>
>When you say that Mark has a digest version you can get for the list, do
>you mean
>a collection of all the healey list messages? or just that you can get the
>list
>in digest form such as once a day?
>
>I've only been on this list for a couple of years. It's great to go to the
>ListQuest archives and read all the old threads on subjects that I am
>interested
>in. It seems like all areas of the car were discussed in great detail at
>one time
>or another.Unfortunately, listquest seems to be down most of the time now.
>
>I have saved many messages but it would be great to have the whole collection.
>You just never know what the area of the car will need some expert advice.
>
>Regards,
>John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 16:13:31 -0500
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
I have the 3 point retractables in the BN7 from the back seat of an XJ6 Jag.
Salvaged from local junkyard for $35. Installed easily. Feels very
comfortable and there is a slight tension on the shoulder strap to keep them
in place. I have jerked on them many times and they catch every time.
Am sure the nonretractable would hold you better for cornering etc but the
retractables are only meant for frontal assaults.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> I have a three point non-adjustable harness and it is terrible. You can't
> moveif it's tight and if you loosen it it falls off your shoulder. I have
a
> retractable set from Andover Seat Belt and can't wait to change them out.
> Once you get use to the convenience of the retractables I can't see how
you
> could live with the fixed type.
>
> Ken Beck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:51:55 +1100
Subject: Re: BCF
Furthermore, *IF* BCF was as busy, the load time in your browser will drive you
crazy.
I regularly use a similar forum for other interests, and pages of > 250kb are
monotonously
common. I can tell you, it is a pain in the neck on modem -- I now *only* use
it on the broadband.
On the issue of thread management, just get a mail reader that supports
threads. Even Netscape's
mail reader does this! Free, and closely coupled with a browser too.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
>
> I've kept away from this thread but now feel that I must make just one small
>point. The BCF, or
any forum, needs a critical mass in order to succeed. Just think of what our
Healey List would be
like if it had only 10-15 subscribers instead of the over 300 that we now have.
IMHO, the BCF will
not be able to be compared to the Healey List until such time as it has
sufficient members to
sustain any meaningful dialogue. Plutonium will not explode until the critical
mass is put together
and then, look out. The same applies to the BCF.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:22:19 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
Fantastic! Now we're getting somewhere!
I count (830) BN1s & (413) BN2s for a total of (1243) Hundreds.
I know of (14) numbers that are not on the list , including mine, just of
people on this mailing list!
If all three major registries published their recorded serial numbers and,
say added a column titled "last known status" (restored, scrapped, daily
driver, lost, unknown, etc.), we could merge the lists and get a rough idea
of how many are (known to be) left.
The problem still exists of the folks that don't belong to one of the clubs
and/or have not provided information to a registry, but at least we'd have a
basis to work from.
I'd be willing to do any spread sheet and/or data base (typing) entries to
help it happen.
Way cool!
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:05:33 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
As of today, there are 3,940 BJ8s accounted for in the BJ8 Registry (22% of
total production). Of these, 15 have been confirmed to be scrapped/parted
out/destroyed, or otherwise no longer in existence as an intact,
identifiable car. Sad to say, I have to make that 16 now. Bill Moseley's
completely-restored-with-the-shiniest-paint-job-I've-ever-seen BJ8 was just
rear-ended by an Oldsmobile a few weeks ago and he tells me it is totalled.
The pictures show it, too. Let us observe a moment of silence.....
If anyone wants a list of 3,940 BJ8 VIN numbers, let me know.
Healey safe out there.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Ed Adams" <je.adams@worldnet.att.net>; "Bill Wood Jr"
<healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
>
> Fantastic! Now we're getting somewhere!
>
> I count (830) BN1s & (413) BN2s for a total of (1243) Hundreds.
>
> I know of (14) numbers that are not on the list , including mine, just of
> people on this mailing list!
>
> If all three major registries published their recorded serial numbers and,
> say added a column titled "last known status" (restored, scrapped, daily
> driver, lost, unknown, etc.), we could merge the lists and get a rough
idea
> of how many are (known to be) left.
>
> The problem still exists of the folks that don't belong to one of the
clubs
> and/or have not provided information to a registry, but at least we'd have
a
> basis to work from.
>
> I'd be willing to do any spread sheet and/or data base (typing) entries to
> help it happen.
>
> Way cool!
>
> Steve
> BN1 Brutus
> Still up on blocks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 01:10:09 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygear
Bob,
I understand that you haven4t opened your gearbox and I couldn4t agree more
with your reasons not to do so.
It happens to be that I opened up a number of gearboxes with rebuilt
laygears for other reasons than them being noisy. In all of them I found
excessive wear on the repaired first gear of the laygear. The outer rings on
the first gear hubs, were also new in all these cases and they were not
worn. I can4t explain why they don4t make any noise but believe that it
might have to do with the outer ring not being worn.
As long as they don4t make any noise one could always reason that all is
well. But I discovered this phenomenon and thought it would benefit everyone
on the list to at least know about it. That way everyone can decide for
themselves if they want to spend the extra dollars for a new laygear or not.
Furthermore the way I came to know how the englishmen function, I believe
that these laygears would not be reproduced from time to time if the repair
was sufficient.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
>
> The short answer is no. But I think in as much as I rebuilt it myself and
> have done a number of bebuilds of all series of Healey tranny's excluding
> BN1 three speeds I am able to sense when one needs opening up for
> inspection. It is still very smooth with no first gear clunk or whine etc.
>
>
> Bob
> ----------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 01:13:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygear
No. Most likely you need to replace the laygear and first gear hub or at
lest the outer ring of the first gear.
Magus Karlsson
SWEDEN
>
> Do you think that replacing the layshaft and layshaft bearings will
> eliminate the noise problem in 1st gear?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Magnus Karlsson
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:53 AM
> To: Healey Lista
> Subject: Re: Laygear
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 19:29:42 -0500
Subject: Matching Car Keys
Dear John:
when I got my longbridge Bn-4 I didn't have any keys, or an ignition
lock. At a swap meet (Carslile, Pa.) I bought a Ignition lock with a key
that would fit my door and trunk locks
Step...1 Take the ignition lock out of the car. You will notice a small
hole at the base, Turn the key to the on position, there is a detent
button in that hole, push it in and you should be able to pull the key
and lock barrel out. With the barrel out, slide the key in and out and
you will be able to see the tumblers move up and down
Step...2 Take the trunk locking handle off the car. On the back side of
the handle there is a cap or cover with a square rod through it. The cap
is held on by crimping marks,file the marks smooth and the cap will
slide off. You will notice a small brass drift pin, drive it out and the
barrel will slide out. The door handle will be a pain in the neck to
remove from the car, You will notice another brass drift pin, drive it
out and again the barrel should pull out.
Step...3 WD-40 lots of it. The brass tumblers can be pulled out from the
top with moderate amount of pulling, beware there is a tiny spring that
may pop out when you pull the tumbler.
Step...4 Choice ...live on the edge and file them all the same or take
them to your favorite lock smith.
PS I had never scene the inside of a auto lock before the day I took
mine apart and some how they all work perfectly with one key
Good luck.......Dennis Broughel
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:46:42 -0600
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
My friend Ed was just reading the following:
Keith said "I have the 3 point retractables in the BN7 from the back seat of
an XJ6 Jag.
Salvaged from local junkyard for $35."
And Ed asked me to write: SALVAGED?? Got a death wish, Keith?? USED belt
are just that!! USED!!
Now I say, Keith I do hope you don't get hurt. Ed expalined to me what
non-new belts of any sort are good for and not good for. He also said do
you have any idea what NTHSIA and FMVSS are about ??
Suzie
'65 Sprite (Original Owner)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:04:41 EST
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Thank you Suzie for conveying that message. Next time you talk to Ed ask him
to send me a case of Busty.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:17:12 EST
Subject: AHCA Memberships
First an update on List member Jerry Hay. Jerry had a heart attack and
emergency quadruple bypass on Saturday. He is doing well and will be in the
hospital for a while but luckily he reported to the hospital at the first
signs of angina and was well taken care of. I know Jerry has a lot of friends
on the list and I am sure he would appreciate your cards and thoughts.
Second, since Jerry was our membership chairman I'm doing our club membership
renewals while he recuperates. Can anyone talk me through this, it's been
awhile since I last did it. Just send a check and names to Edie or the
complete form with check or is there a form she uses? I know the basics, I
just need a current update on the methodology.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:23:52 +1100
Subject: RE: 100S
G'day Bill
Well I remember way back in 1975 the 100S discussions late into the night.
Yes the worldwide
I'm afraid that while the cars are looking better today than they did back
then, the years have taken their toll on the rest of us. Sadly Alan was
killed in a motor vehicle accident in 1979 caused by a drunken driver. My
hair is rather shorter these days and mostly grey, plus the tummy is a bit
rounder. However the love for Healeys and Austin-Healeys remain.
Like yourself my brain is much younger - but my body needs far more rest
stops.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: bill wood [mailto:healeybill@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 12:49 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 100S
Hi Keith,
Thanks for the "warning" of the Healey Highlights article surfacing in your
home. I do remember it well. When Pat Quinn and Alan Jones came to visit
me
in Somers, Connecticut, we had a ball with the 100S stories and they have
lasted with me all these years...the value of the clubs in the world.
The "boys from Australia" look so young now and the young American who had
that AHS3605 hasn't "aged" that much either. The cars look older, but my
mental attitude is still like a kid.
Thanks for the memories!
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:23:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Matching Car Keys
Hey John,
You can contact Pete Groh at pete_groh@yahoo.com. He may be able to
supply you with a new or excellent used cylinder & keys. If you contact
me off the net with the number I may be able to help. The key number (at
least on the older cars) is on the face of the cylinder and is also
available on the Heritage certificate. You should, with little trouble,
be able to locate the correct cylinder and key for your car.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bn1 at pacbell.net
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:25:08 -0800
Subject: Looking for a Healey owner.
Sorry to bomb the list.
I'm trying to get an address and phone number for Mohammed Ali Joher.
He has a 100-6 and is in the Sacramento area. If anyone can help,
please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:33:39 -0500
Subject: wheel removal
I'm making my first attempt at replacing a wheel cylinder and cannot get the 5
bolts off that are holding the wheel on? Help!!!
Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bn1 at pacbell.net
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 18:44:55 -0800
Subject: Re: gearbox front seal
John,
I don't know of a conversion. I simply took my front cover and a spare 1st
motion
shaft to a good machinist. He cut a groove in the ID of the cover to accept an
O-ring. Cost me $20. I know of three other people who have used this technique
and can now park their BN1's facing downhill without the oil running out :-)
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
Mogfrog1@aol.com wrote:
> Hi All, does someone have the size or even better a part number for the seal
> conversion for the front cover for a 3-speed BN1 gearbox? Thanks for any help.
> Cheers,
> John Wright
> BN1
> BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 22:38:58 -0500
Subject: wheel removal
Listers
Sorry I did not give enough info for getting help on my wheel (brake drum)
removal. I'm working on bj8 with wire wheels and the rear wheel has brake
fluid leaking out. I do not have compressed air or a pneumatic wrench. I have
tried using wd-40, using a ratchet set with a long pipe slid over the handle
and broke the Japan ratchet tip off inside the socket. I am turning counter
clockwise (trying that is). Is it likely that the only way is compressed air?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 23:12:40 -0500
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Suzie,
Yes, I know that used seat belts are used. How used could the rear seat
belts of a 7 year old XJ6 be? And besides, we all have used seat belts in
ALL our vehicles, don't we?
I would be curious what eD said used seat belts are good for.
As for NTHSIA and FMVSS . . . I really don't care.
Keith Pennell
> My friend Ed was just reading the following:
>
> Keith said "I have the 3 point retractables in the BN7 from the back seat
of
> an XJ6 Jag.
> Salvaged from local junkyard for $35."
>
> And Ed asked me to write: SALVAGED?? Got a death wish, Keith?? USED
belt
> are just that!! USED!!
>
> Now I say, Keith I do hope you don't get hurt. Ed expalined to me what
> non-new belts of any sort are good for and not good for. He also said do
> you have any idea what NTHSIA and FMVSS are about ??
>
> Suzie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 23:22:05 EST
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
In a message dated 12/17/01 21:16:19, pennell@whro.net writes:
<< Yes, I know that used seat belts are used. How used could the rear seat
belts of a 7 year old XJ6 be? And besides, we all have used seat belts in
ALL our vehicles, don't we?
I would be curious what eD said used seat belts are good for.
As for NTHSIA and FMVSS . . . I really don't care.
Keith Pennell
>>
Very well said.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:36:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: wheel removal
Dave -
That still isn't enough information -
#1 - If you are trying to remove the five nuts
mounting the spline hub - be sure to put on the
parking brake, then use two six sided box-end wrenches
if you have them (don't use a ratchet, you'll break
the teeth inside the tool if you have to honk on it
that hard). Be sure one of the box wrenches is on a
nut opposite ... using it to couter balance the force
on the wrench on the nut you are trying to remove.
The longer the handle the better - if you have a
breaker bar (like a wratchet handle with no ratchet
mechanism) - use it with a six sided socket and the
longest steel pipe you can find as a cheater bar -
that should get it off. - if not, try using a
pneumatic impact wrench - if that doesn't work, soak
everything in liquid wrenc overnight and give it a
second go the next day.
#2 - if you are trying to remove the brake drum - be
sure the parking brake is off. It should come right
out with just a little coaxing -- a little tap on the
back with the thor hammer will help alot if it seems a
bit stuck
No matter what you do, be sure to replace the spline
mounting nuts with new ones - you never want to reuse
old ones as the locking typically doesn't seat as well
after you've used them once.
Good Luck!
'53 BN1 '66 Bj8
--- caudle1@charter.net wrote:
>
> Listers
> Sorry I did not give enough info for getting help on
> my wheel (brake drum)
> removal. I'm working on bj8 with wire wheels and the
> rear wheel has brake
> fluid leaking out. I do not have compressed air or a
> pneumatic wrench. I have
> tried using wd-40, using a ratchet set with a long
> pipe slid over the handle
> and broke the Japan ratchet tip off inside the
> socket. I am turning counter
> clockwise (trying that is). Is it likely that the
> only way is compressed air?
> Your help is greatly appreciated.
> Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 22:43:02 -0700
Subject: Re: seat belts Response
Hmmmm! Interesting question. Just what are NTHSIA and FMVSS about? Could it be
marketing new seat belts?
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Suzie,
>
> Yes, I know that used seat belts are used. How used could the rear seat
> belts of a 7 year old XJ6 be? And besides, we all have used seat belts in
> ALL our vehicles, don't we?
>
> I would be curious what eD said used seat belts are good for.
>
> As for NTHSIA and FMVSS . . . I really don't care.
>
> Keith Pennell
>
> > My friend Ed was just reading the following:
> >
> > Keith said "I have the 3 point retractables in the BN7 from the back seat
> of
> > an XJ6 Jag.
> > Salvaged from local junkyard for $35."
> >
> > And Ed asked me to write: SALVAGED?? Got a death wish, Keith?? USED
> belt
> > are just that!! USED!!
> >
> > Now I say, Keith I do hope you don't get hurt. Ed expalined to me what
> > non-new belts of any sort are good for and not good for. He also said do
> > you have any idea what NTHSIA and FMVSS are about ??
> >
> > Suzie
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 23:41:17 -0800
Subject: paint my car
Listers:
I am about to have my car re painted and I am looking for some help.
The painter that I have found does incredible work on all kinds of cars from hot
rods to Ferraris. He has just finished a 'frame off" restoration of an AC., and
he can finish my car between Jan and the end of April.
However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as copy of Roger
and Gary's restoration book.
Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as close to
perfect a job as possible?
Thanks
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 03:19:02 EST
Subject: Re: paint my car
Ron
All I can offer is that a painter is not necessarily a restorer or
restoration specialist. The shop you are looking at may be, but unless he
has done a Healey before you will pay for him to learn about the car. The
fine points of making a gold level car is very time consuming...therefore
very expensive. My suggestion is to find a Healey expert.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:35:05 -0500
Subject: Re: paint my car
Hi Ron,
If your painter does "incredible work" and is doing "Ferraris" he should
already have the "tools" (i.e. - knowledge and experience) he needs . From
your message, it appears your satisfied with the work he does so he must
have some of the other "tools" also (i.e. - paint booths, HVLP spray guns,
paint mixing laboratory, etc.).
My first question to you would be... How satisfied are you with the
appearance of your car's paint AND body panels currently? Any rust showing
through or waves in the metal? Then the next question would be...How much
are you willing to spend to achieve the quality your expecting? A simple
repaint may not be all that expensive. A complete, down-to-the-metal, metal
prep, block and sand, evaporating VOC's between color coats, etc. could take
400 - 500 hours.
Another "tool" could be Ed Polpovich's (sp?) book on Austin Healey colors. I
found this book to be a excellent reference if your unsure of matching
original ICI paint formulas to other paint manufactures (DuPont, PPG). Even
though it seems every car at a show has a slightly different color shade of
Ice Blue Metallic or Old English White, it helps get you close so your not
way off shade!
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (in the paint shop)
Bradenton, FL.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 2:41 AM
Subject: paint my car
>
> Listers:
> I am about to have my car re painted and I am looking for some help.
> The painter that I have found does incredible work on all kinds of cars
from hot
> rods to Ferraris. He has just finished a 'frame off" restoration of an
AC., and
> he can finish my car between Jan and the end of April.
> However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
> I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as copy of
Roger
> and Gary's restoration book.
> Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as close to
> perfect a job as possible?
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:46:25 -0600
Subject: Re: paint my car
Ron Rader wrote:
> Listers:
> I am about to have my car re painted and I am looking for some help.
> The painter that I have found does incredible work on all kinds of cars from
>hot
> rods to Ferraris. He has just finished a 'frame off" restoration of an AC.,
>and
> he can finish my car between Jan and the end of April.
He's probably capable given the right information.
>
> However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
You are asking for expensive problems!!
>
> I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as copy of Roger
> and Gary's restoration book.
> Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as close to
> perfect a job as possible?
The best tool is for you to do the research yourself. He is not going to have
time
to do the 100s of hours research at $85/hour, plus or minus, for this car to be
a
concours contender. He is not going to spend the time to make sure he has the
right
bolt, flat washer, spring washer, etc., all in the right places and the right
order. He will put out a beautiful car but it will not be a concours
contender-- I
promise you!!
I did see an attempt at a gold level Bugeye some years back that was beautifully
done by a man's shop much like you describe. It truly was beautiful but had the
wrong engine, transmission, and other glaring errors. The owner didn't know
that
the car was "wrong" but simply had it redone just the way he got it. No
research
but a very large checkbook. Nice car but not gold level.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:50:10 -0600
Subject: Re: paint my car
ron,
are you talking about a new paint job or a restoration ? if new paint, all
applicable exterior trim, including fender beading needs to be removed. that
also includes bumpers, windscreen, etc.
if a total restoration, besides the book and the sheets, you better provide the
direction to administer your money !!
happy healeying,
jerry
Ron Rader wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
> I am about to have my car re painted and I am looking for some help.
> The painter that I have found does incredible work on all kinds of cars from
>hot
> rods to Ferraris. He has just finished a 'frame off" restoration of an AC.,
>and
> he can finish my car between Jan and the end of April.
> However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
> I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as copy of Roger
> and Gary's restoration book.
> Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as close to
> perfect a job as possible?
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rebeltown at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:11:49 EST
Subject: Long awaited pinion gear sets
Has anyone heard about when our "looong" awaited rear pinion gear sets are
supposed to be available? Last I heard was around Xmas time "this Year".
Just want an update if possible.. thanx
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:16:04 -0800
Subject: Re: paint my car
Ron,
Now it's my turn.
In 1996 my nextdoor neighbor was going out of business involuntarily. He needed
cash
badly and put his Austin Healey up for sale. It had not been driven since about
1960
and had been living in his parents barn, under wraps, for most of that time. It
had
10,250 miles on it and no rust anywhere. He set the price; I bought it.
I took it to a guy like the one you found, a guy named Dick Noonan in Oakland,
Michigan. I wanted to have a nice paint job along with a moderate restorastion
of the
interior, wiring, etc. We agreed on around $18,000. However, two days into it,
I get a
call from him saying this car is too nice to do anything other than a complete
resto.
Five years and $45,000 later I have one of the most correct and beautiful 1958
BN-6
Healeys in the world. I have already turned down a lot of money for her. She
has begun
her ribbon collection with her first concours.
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Patrick R Williams" <Patrick_R_Williams at raytheon.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 08:22:38 -0600
Subject: Restorer advice
I have a '59 BT7 with hardtop that I've worked/learned on for the last 25
years. It's in pretty good shape and body work/paint is quite good. It
needs a new interior. I've come to the stage in my life where I can afford
to have someone go through it and make it right. I recently moved to
Huntsville, Alabama and am looking for a restoration shop relatively close.
I've heard about Von's in South Carolina and Mark Lambert in Nashville. I
could also probably swing getting the car to Healey Surgeons in Maryland
but prefer not to go that far. Any thoughts/recommendations from the list
would be appreciated.
Pat Williams
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:53:04 -0500
Subject: 100 Register Coordination
Today I received a message from John Harper about a message he sent me back on
June 15th to say he was sending me a "North American listing without the
personal information". Somehow it was lost in cyberspace as I did not receive
same and did not acknowledge same to John. My apologies.
I hope to receive from him by Mail all of the listing numbers he has in his
100 Register which I can then add to the 2200 or so I have in my Register.
Rudy Streng is also sending a European list he has obtained and Steve Mickel
is also providing about 100 more. Naturally, some of these will be
duplicates, but it should greatley expand my 2200 numbers!
I will let you know when these lists arrive, especially the ones from John
Harper, as they should contain the ones that have been added to the UK list
that I received many years ago from John Wheatley.
Cheers.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:21:59 EST
Subject: Re: paint my car
In a message dated 12/17/01 11:37:48 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as copy of Roger
and Gary's restoration book.
Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as close to
perfect a job as possible? >>
Your presence is the most important thing. Do not expect your painter to
stand there with the book in hand to check every detail. Start out by being
sure of your paint color by having a large metal sample sprayed out and dry
before proceeding withthe car. Be prepared to tell him exactly where the
swage line breaks, for example, and be prepared to insist on body color all
over, with no overspray on anything that's attached. Insist that the
fenders, bonnet, boot lid, and doors be painted at the same time as the main
body/chassis and with the same mix of paint.
I'd be interested in the thoughts of others.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:39:23 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
Hi Steve:
That's good solid information. After all the work you've put into the BJ8
Registry, you can at least make a straightforward statement like that.
One can now speculate that for every ten BJ8s that you've tracked down, there
is some quantity that are unknown garage queens and some quantity that have
gone to Healey Heaven, etc., and make some reasonable estimate of how many
BJ8s are still around.
I'm a little surprised at what a low percentage of BJ8s have been known to be
put down and out. It would be interesting to compare an estimated percentage
of surviving BJ8s with some other makes and models.
The 100 registry (chassis numbers) by John Harper represents about 12% of
(BN1 + BN2) production, although he states the presence of a chassis number
may only represent a sighting and that he also has records of car information
without the chassis number.
Given that I know of 14 numbers not on the 100 list just from this mailing
list (of computer literate/capable of electronic registration people), given
that there are two other registries, given that I think there are two "known"
100s and one "unknown" 100 in my little community, etc., I suspect that we'll
be lucky to "account for" 20-25% of the Healey Hundreds.
At least, the trend seems to be towards making some of the information
available to the Healey "public".
Thanks for all your work on the BJ8 Registry.
Steve Mickelson
BN1 Brutus
Still on blocks
In a message dated 12/17/01 3:12:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
byers@cconnect.net writes:
<< As of today, there are 3,940 BJ8s accounted for in the BJ8 Registry (22% of
total production). Of these, 15 have been confirmed to be scrapped/parted
out/destroyed, or otherwise no longer in existence as an intact,
identifiable car. Sad to say, I have to make that 16 now. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:36:58 -0800
Subject: Re: paint my car
A huge ditto to Gary's comments below. If only I had the ability to baby sit
the painter through the process I would have avoided some expensive grief
after the fact. My best advice is to find a body/paint shop close to home
so that you can ride herd on your project. Definitely have the chassis
painted at the same time. Have the wheel wells painted at the same time. And
use the same paint on the chassis, wheel wells and body!! Due to my
indecision regarding painting the frame and wheel wells and my unwillingness
to micromanage the paintshop long distance - who supposedly knew exactly
what they were doing - I am now stuck with the wrong color paint on the
wheel wells and chassis and will probably have to pay to have it redone
somewhere else. Lesson learned!
Coop ('66 BJ8)
Your presence is the most important thing. Do not expect your painter to
> stand there with the book in hand to check every detail. Start out by
being
> sure of your paint color by having a large metal sample sprayed out and
dry
> before proceeding withthe car. Be prepared to tell him exactly where the
> swage line breaks, for example, and be prepared to insist on body color
all
> over, with no overspray on anything that's attached. Insist that the
> fenders, bonnet, boot lid, and doors be painted at the same time as the
main
> body/chassis and with the same mix of paint.
>
> I'd be interested in the thoughts of others.
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 13:42:38 EST
Subject: What about that 100/Six Registry?
Hi Listers,
Not to be outdone by those BJ8 and 100 guys, here is a tasting of what I have
in my BN4 & BN6 files. I have been doing this Registry for probably over 20
years as I have had my BN4 for 25 years. I have the VINs from all over the
USA, Australia, Germany, Netherlands and Sweden. If you have been a member
of AHCA during the past 20 years and sent in your VIN while joining, I
probably have that information, otherwise, I am open to adding your vehicle
to my files. Name, Rank and Serial Number. Sorry, Name, Address and Serial
number is fine. Thanks,
According to production records: 14,436 100/Six models were build of which
10,286 were BN4 and 4150 were the two seater BN6. 7,859 were originally
exported to the USA which represents about 54% of the total
Currently in my files : 711 BN4 or about 7% 390 BN6 or about 9%
So here it is about 45 years later and I am still getting new numbers all the
time.
Rudy Streng
BN1, BN4, BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:06:06 EST
Subject: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
I got to spend all day Sunday working on Brutus. The current thrust is
trying to make the brakes work. Between my Service Manual and the Moss
catalog I figured out how to remove the rear wheel cylinders.
Despite my best efforts, I broke one of the two studs that hold the wheel
cylinder to the backing plate. Thinking that it was a threaded stud, I
managed to weld a nut to it and try to remove the embedded portion. Turns
out that he studs are square-headed and embedded in the aluminum casting.
Mine no longer is, since I managed to break it out of the housing.
I know a guy that can probably TIG weld a new stud in, but the bores on both
cylinders are pretty corroded up. The wheel cylinders were rebuilt in 1982,
last driven in 1988 and sitting since then...no wonder they wouldn't bleed.
Anyway, I'm told that aluminum bores cannot be honed. Can they be reamed?
Can they be bored oversize and fitted with oversized rubbers? Am I stuck
buying new ones from Moss @ $140 each?
Sorry if this is a repeat of a previously discussed topic. Any help would be
appreciated. Anybody got a set of re-buildable cylinders? Anybody got any
magic?
Anybody know why they later changed to smaller diameter (7/8") wheel
cylinders?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks
Won't go
Won't stop
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 19:04:39 -0000
Subject: RE: Laygear & englishmen function
I'm sure we are all very grateful to be told about laygears.
Perhaps we might also be enlightened as to how "the Englishmen
function"? And which Englishmen?
I'm not English, which I usually spell with a capital "E", but I
remain curious.
Simon.
As long as they don4t make any noise one could always reason that
all is
well. But I discovered this phenomenon and thought it would
benefit everyone
on the list to at least know about it. That way everyone can
decide for
themselves if they want to spend the extra dollars for a new
laygear or not.
Furthermore the way I came to know how the englishmen function, I
believe
that these laygears would not be reproduced from time to time if
the repair
was sufficient.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:09:04 EST
Subject: Limited Slip Differential
In my endless search for pieces and parts I found a guy that says he has a
limited slip Healey differential. Is there such a thing? Why? What was the
application?
Just curious.
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks
Out in the cold
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kbah100 at cs.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:16:02 EST
Subject: BJ8 Interior Recommendation
I'd like your opinions on the quality and service of suppliers of BJ8
Interiors. I'm about to redo a BJ8 interior. Rather than just buy from the
normal suppliers who do you think has the best deal. Looking for very good
quality at a reasonable price.
thanks
Ken Beck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:54:16 -0600
Subject: New Laygear question
Magnus,
Just for the sake of conversation what type of a test market have the
new and improved laygears been put through. Has somebody actually put so
many thousand miles on a new laygear and checked and tested the wear or is
the make up of the new unit a more durable material over all so is less
prone to failure?
Does anyone know yet how many miles one will get out of the new laygear?
Does it appear that the original ones failed out of abuse from previous
owners or was the material just inferior for the application? Anybody can
jump in here.
Hunting for my only Xmas gift this year, A Laygear. Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:55:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygear & englishmen function
Simon,
I agree that this posting of mine did not come out very well.
The Englishmen I4m refering to are the ones in the manufacturing of Healey
parts business. I did not mean to offend them or any other Englishman for
that mqtter. I only tried to explain what I believe to be some evidence of
the fact that the repaired laygears may not be the best solution. If someone
in the manufacturing business didn4t know about this, I very much doubt that
they would start producing complete and new units, especially since any
other parts of the laygear almost never wears out. I think it would be very
fair to inform any potential customer about the shortcomings of the repaired
laygears but as far as I know, nobody does that. I4m afraid that the same
can be said about some other parts of inferior quality that is currently
being sold on the market.
This was the point I was trying to make and I apologize for the fact that it
turned out in such a way that it could be perceived as being offensive. I
also apologize for the fact that I did not spell the word Englishmen
correct. In Swedish we always spell those kinds of words with a lower case
letter. I am afraid that both of these things can happen when a Swede tries
to make his voice heard in the foreign language of English and especially
when he is in a hurry.
magnus Karlsson
sweden
> I'm sure we are all very grateful to be told about laygears.
> Perhaps we might also be enlightened as to how "the Englishmen
> function"? And which Englishmen?
> I'm not English, which I usually spell with a capital "E", but I
> remain curious.
> Simon.
> As long as they don4t make any noise one could always reason that
> all is
> well. But I discovered this phenomenon and thought it would
> benefit everyone
> on the list to at least know about it. That way everyone can
> decide for
> themselves if they want to spend the extra dollars for a new
> laygear or not.
> Furthermore the way I came to know how the englishmen function, I
> believe
> that these laygears would not be reproduced from time to time if
> the repair
> was sufficient.
>
> Magnus Karlsson
> SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:18:27 +0100
Subject: FW: New Laygear question
Mark,
I have no idea but in my original post I stated that the manufacturers
claimed it to be made to European quality standards and I wrote that if that
is true, it sounds very reassuring.
My experience is that the repaired laygears are not very durable and I
assume that the reason for this is that they are not hardened enough or
correctly.
A new laygear made from scratch would be much easier to harden properly as
long as it is made out of the correct material.
The repaired ones work though and I have not had them whine yet but
everytime I have inspected them after some use they do not look good.
Myself I would try my luck with a new unit eventhough it would set me back
about 250 dollars more. Unfortunately in the world of limited production
runs no one really knows on beforehand what the quality will be like.
I think the main reason for failure of the original ones was that the first
gear is unsynchronized. An additional reason might be that the profile of
the cogs are not the best in a "withstanding wear point" of view
I think this will be the last I write about laygears.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
> Fren: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Datum: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 14:54:16 -0600
> Till: "Magnus Karlsson" <492karlsson@telia.com>, "Healey lista"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Dmne: New Laygear question
>
> Magnus,
> Just for the sake of conversation what type of a test market have the
> new and improved laygears been put through. Has somebody actually put so
> many thousand miles on a new laygear and checked and tested the wear or is
> the make up of the new unit a more durable material over all so is less
> prone to failure?
> Does anyone know yet how many miles one will get out of the new laygear?
> Does it appear that the original ones failed out of abuse from previous
> owners or was the material just inferior for the application? Anybody can
> jump in here.
>
> Hunting for my only Xmas gift this year, A Laygear. Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:19:12 +0100
Subject: FW: Limited Slip Differential
Yes there were or rather are. Quaife makes a mechanical unit that is very
good. There is also one with friction discs but I unforunately forgot the
make.
It is very good for racing and rallying applications, since both wheels will
power the car thru bends. Without it precious time is lost.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
>
>
> In my endless search for pieces and parts I found a guy that says he has a
> limited slip Healey differential. Is there such a thing? Why? What was the
> application?
>
> Just curious.
>
> Steve
> BN1 Brutus
> Up on blocks
> Out in the cold
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 15:50:47 EST
Subject: Re: What about that 100/Six Registry?
Thanks for all your work! You Registrars deserve some credtit for trying to
make sense in our senseless world.
Steve
1954 BN1 Brutus
Up on blocks
Future head-turner
In a message dated 12/18/01 10:44:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
CAWS52803@aol.com writes:
<< Hi Listers,
Not to be outdone by those BJ8 and 100 guys, here is a tasting of what I
have
in my BN4 & BN6 files. I have been doing this Registry for probably over 20
years as I have had my BN4 for 25 years. I have the VINs from all over the
USA, Australia, Germany, Netherlands and Sweden. If you have been a member
of AHCA during the past 20 years and sent in your VIN while joining, I
probably have that information, otherwise, I am open to adding your vehicle
to my files. Name, Rank and Serial Number. Sorry, Name, Address and Serial
number is fine. Thanks,
According to production records: 14,436 100/Six models were build of which
10,286 were BN4 and 4150 were the two seater BN6. 7,859 were originally
exported to the USA which represents about 54% of the total
Currently in my files : 711 BN4 or about 7% 390 BN6 or about 9%
So here it is about 45 years later and I am still getting new numbers all
the
time.
Rudy Streng
BN1, BN4, BT7 >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BillHUCK at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 15:58:23 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
Steve,
I have bored out many horrid AH cylinders with lasting results. The
standard rubber 'puck' is very forgiving to a much oversized rebore. Measure
the puck, see for yourself. I suggest that you locate a shop with a Sonnen
hone. They can make your old units better than newb&and, for a lot less than
$140. Bill Huck
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "pfico" <ryoung at oro.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 01:10:46 -0800
Subject: Fw: Odd gauge Morgan/Healey
>can anyone please look up the application of a GD1500 /29 Smiths oil
>pressure and water temp gauge.
>it should be circa 1963, as it was mounted in My Morgan Super Sports on
>the left of the Dash (LHD)
-------------------------------------
According to Smiths catalog the GD 1500/29 fits the 100 Austin Healey.
Regards,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 17:48:41 -0600
Subject: Re: What about that 100/Six Registry?
> Thanks for all your work! You Registrars deserve some credtit for trying
to
> make sense in our senseless world.
>
Now if they can just figure out how to make Cents with the information.
Information is Power, Money is Power - a little bit of reverse engineering
and they'll be laughing all the way to the bank...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 19:51:25 -0500
Subject: brake drum removal
Thanks Listers for the help yesterday on getting the hub extension removed on
my bj8. The shocking effect with the hammer was the solution for my situation.
Now I can not get the brake drum off. The parking brake is off, I've given 2
hours worth of tapping prying begging and few words not worth repeating. Do I
remove anything else? Please remember you are assisting a rookie!!!
Thanks Rookie Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:20:31 EST
Subject: Re: brake drum removal
Dave have you backed off on the brake adjuster? Have you removed the screws
holding the drum to the axle? If not do so, then you may get the drum off.
Jerry Anderson
Greensboro,NC
BN4
JH-5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:41:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Restorer advice
I have had experience with Von's in S.C., and would STRONGLY recommend NOT
using them. I had a Sprite done there about 2 years ago. They told me the
cost would be about $5,000 to do everything that I wanted done to the bare
body. They sent me bills about every two weeks, and when the bill was close
to $5,000, I asked them if the car was about ready to pick up. They said,
"Oh, no! We're just now getting the old finish and rust off the body. It
will probably cost about another $2,000 to finish it." After much arguing,
I gave in and said to go ahead. This same scenario played out several
times, and the ultimate cost to fix up the body, repaint it, and buff it out
was over $15,000!!!! The body does look very good, but whatever they tell
you it will cost to do the work, you can multiply it by three.
Bob
>
>I have a '59 BT7 with hardtop that I've worked/learned on for the last 25
>years. It's in pretty good shape and body work/paint is quite good. It
>needs a new interior. I've come to the stage in my life where I can afford
>to have someone go through it and make it right. I recently moved to
>Huntsville, Alabama and am looking for a restoration shop relatively close.
>I've heard about Von's in South Carolina and Mark Lambert in Nashville. I
>could also probably swing getting the car to Healey Surgeons in Maryland
>but prefer not to go that far. Any thoughts/recommendations from the list
>would be appreciated.
>Pat Williams
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:05:31 -0500
Subject: Matching Car Keys and How Many Keys for a BJ8
Listers,
Thanks to all who replied with suggestions and for those who pointed me
towards Pete Groh. He and I have been corresponding trying to get some
matching keys and locks.
A couple of questions though. How many keys actually came with a Phase II
BJ8, with pushbutton door handles; what keys opened what locks; and, what
shapes were the key heads? I have had a couple of people, including Pete,
say that there were two keys, the square head for the ignition and doors,
and a round head key for the glovebox and trunk. And if the shape is
different, is the keying the same?
On the other hand, I have a reproduction Driver's Handbook (for the 3000
Mark III) that clearly states the ignition key opens both the doors and the
trunk; the Handbook makes no mention, that I can find, of the glovebox. The
Mechanical Service Parts List shows the ignition, door and trunk locks as
part # ANK4646 (no part number for the glovebox key), but the keys are
diagrammed differently (round head key for the ignition, trunk and glovebox,
square head for the doors). My trace certificate shows only one key number.
Very confusing, to say the least.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:20:01 -0500
Subject: Re: brake drum removal
I used to go through the same hassles removing brake drums, but not anymore!
I got the brake drum removal tool from Eastwood for around $35, I believe,
and only regret that I didn't get one of these years ago. You can remove
any stuck drum with this gadget in about 2 minutes!!
Bob
>
>Thanks Listers for the help yesterday on getting the hub extension removed
on
>my bj8. The shocking effect with the hammer was the solution for my
situation.
>Now I can not get the brake drum off. The parking brake is off, I've given
2
>hours worth of tapping prying begging and few words not worth repeating. Do
I
>remove anything else? Please remember you are assisting a rookie!!!
>Thanks Rookie Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:26:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Matching Car Keys and How Many Keys for a BJ8
Hi, John -
My ignition key is square-headed and also locks the doors and glovebox, all
original lock cylinders. I replaced my trunk handle/lock/escutcheon some
years ago and the key that came with that is round-headed, for what that's
worth.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 9:05 PM
Subject: Matching Car Keys and How Many Keys for a BJ8
>
> Listers,
>
> Thanks to all who replied with suggestions and for those who pointed me
> towards Pete Groh. He and I have been corresponding trying to get some
> matching keys and locks.
>
> A couple of questions though. How many keys actually came with a Phase II
> BJ8, with pushbutton door handles; what keys opened what locks; and, what
> shapes were the key heads? I have had a couple of people, including Pete,
> say that there were two keys, the square head for the ignition and doors,
> and a round head key for the glovebox and trunk. And if the shape is
> different, is the keying the same?
>
> On the other hand, I have a reproduction Driver's Handbook (for the 3000
> Mark III) that clearly states the ignition key opens both the doors and
the
> trunk; the Handbook makes no mention, that I can find, of the glovebox.
The
> Mechanical Service Parts List shows the ignition, door and trunk locks as
> part # ANK4646 (no part number for the glovebox key), but the keys are
> diagrammed differently (round head key for the ignition, trunk and
glovebox,
> square head for the doors). My trace certificate shows only one key
number.
>
> Very confusing, to say the least.
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> '67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 20:41:59 -0600
Subject: engine color
Does anyone know if any 29D engines were painted a
blue/ aqua color? instead of healey green.
Robert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:51:43 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
Thanks, Bill:
For the same amount of pressure from the master cylinder, the smaller wheel
cylinders would have less force. Friction (braking force) is, theoretically,
independent of surface (brake shoe) area and just a function of the two
interacting materials. That was the reason for my question, It seems that
they decreased the amount of braking force...unless they increased the
diameter of the master cylinder?
I'll search for White Post Restorations and see what they have to offer.
Thanks again.
Steve
In a message dated 12/18/01 4:57:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ynotink@qwest.net writes:
<< There are services out there which will sleeve them with bronze. the one
that
comes to mind is White Post Restorations. I think they are in Vermont or
somewhere around there. You should be able to find them in Hemmings.
The reason for varying the size of the cylinders is to vary the amount of
force
the brakes will generate for a given amount of input force. The cylinders
were
probably reduced from 1" to 7/8" when the brake shoes and drums were
increased
in width. Greater swept area means greater braking force for a given amount
of
input force. So the later, wider (1-3/4" to 2-1/4")brakes gave sufficient
braking force with a lower pedal pressure.
Bill Lawrence >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:19:42 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
Thanks, Roland.
My brother has a brake and wheel alignment shop...the first thing he told me
was that they couldn't be honed. Others on the list support that position.
I'm going to do some research on the "anodizing" theory.
I'll let you know what I find out.
Thanks, again.
Regards.
Steve
In a message dated 12/18/01 12:33:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, rwil@cts.com
writes:
<< Of course they can be honed. The issue is how long the rebuild will
last if you do. (You could try and find out for yourself;-) ) The
permanent fix is to have the cylinder sleeved with bronze or stainless
steel. It is somewhat cheaper than buying a new cylinder and will
last longer by far, if correctly done. White Post and Apple
Hydraulics, among others propose to do this for you. I have had good
luck with Apple's rebuilds of calipers but others have reported minor
problems. I have no experience with White Post, but hear nothing but
good things about the quality of their work.
-Roland
BN1 with rebuildable wheel cylinders not used since 196 >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 22:54:26 -0500
Subject: Re: brake drum removal
Rookie Dave,
Did you remove the two countersunk flat head screws located approximately
between the axle studs?
Keith Pennell
> Thanks Listers for the help yesterday on getting the hub extension removed
on
> my bj8. The shocking effect with the hammer was the solution for my
situation.
> Now I can not get the brake drum off. The parking brake is off, I've given
2
> hours worth of tapping prying begging and few words not worth repeating.
Do I
> remove anything else? Please remember you are assisting a rookie!!!
> Thanks Rookie Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:02:27 -0800
Subject: Paint the BJ8
Listers:
Thanks to the 10 of you that responded. All had great suggestions.
I clearly needed to give yall more info. When I purchased my car 2.5 years ago
it had a frame off restoration about 3 years earlier. This car is painted a
beautiful BRG in every crease of the car including the entire under carriage and
engine compartment. I love the color and will repaint the car in the exact same
color.
Since buying the car I have devoured the concours guide and have read Gary &
Roger's book cover to cover. I have spent 2 years with Eric Grunden at
Absolutely British correcting much of the PO's incorrect work. All of the
restoration is complete except for some minor engine work will be done next week
before it goes to the paint shop.
The paint has some cracks and rust spots peeking through but this car still took
a first in class at the Palos Verdes and Orange County Concours this fall. There
are several areas where the panel fit is not correct and the hood and trunk fit
are not correct. My desire is to take the car from the 95 percentile to the 99
percentile. Don Fisher has also helped me with the concours detail.
On the other hand the car came with a beautiful tan interior and I am not
willing to change that to make in "correct" Although I would like the car as
close as possible to concours it still must meet my needs. I am not removing the
72 spoke chrome wires nor the radials. I drive the car about 4,000 miles a year.
What I am looking for is a great paint job and a better panel fit than when it
left the factory. Since the shop is only 20 minutes south of my office I will
visit the car weekly and I will have others with greater expertise go with me to
double check the progress. We are taking the car down to the bare metal to
remove the filler that the previous restorer used. We are refitting all of the
panels except the shrouds.
I have both of the books and I will high light the appropriate parts and get
them to the painter so he can flip through them for reference and I can have
another set at home. Are there any other manuals that I need?
Thanks again.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
************************************************************
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
Hi Ron,
If your painter does "incredible work" and is doing "Ferraris" he
Should already have the "tools" (i.e. - knowledge and experience) he needs
. From your message, it appears your satisfied with the work he does so he
must have some of the other "tools" also (i.e. - paint booths, HVLP spray
guns, paint mixing laboratory, etc.).
My first question to you would be... How satisfied are you with the
appearance of your car's paint AND body panels currently? Any rust
showing through or waves in the metal? Then the next question would be...How
much are you willing to spend to achieve the quality your expecting? A
simple repaint may not be all that expensive. A complete, down-to-the-metal,
metal
prep, block and sand, evaporating VOC's between color coats, etc. could
take 400 - 500 hours.
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (in the paint shop)
Bradenton, FL.
***************************************************
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 2:41 AM
Subject: paint my car
Listers:
I am about to have my car re painted and I am looking for some help.
The painter that I have found does incredible work on all kinds of
cars from hot rods to Ferraris. He has just finished a 'frame off"
restoration of an AC., and he can finish my car between Jan and the end of
April.
However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as
copy of Roger and Gary's restoration book.
Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as
close to perfect a job as possible?
Thanks
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 00:00:21 -0500
Subject: drum removal
Thanks for the help. I must admit I missed those blankity screws. That was
harded to admit than the work to do it. The brakes were also adjusted to
tight. Now I will order parts and hope to get it back together. What is the
tips on putting the shoes on??? I could use some short cuts.
Thanks Rookie Dave
bj8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 21:09:31 -0800
Subject: British Humor
was told these signs were spotted in British business establishments.
Sign in a Laundromat:
AUTOMATIC WASHING MACHINES:
PLEASE REMOVE ALL YOUR CLOTHES WHEN THE LIGHT GOES OUT
Sign in a London department store: BARGAIN BASEMENT UPSTAIRS
In an office:
WOULD THE PERSON WHO TOOK THE STEP LADDER YESTERDAY
PLEASE BRING IT BACK OR FURTHER STEPS WILL BE TAKEN
In an office:
AFTER TEA BREAK STAFF SHOULD EMPTY THE TEAPOT AND
STAND UPSIDE DOWN ON THE DRAINING BOARD
Outside a secondhand shop:
WE EXCHANGE ANYTHING - BICYCLES, WASHING MACHINES, ETC.
WHY NOT BRING YOUR WIFE ALONG AND GET A WONDERFUL BARGAIN?
Notice in health food shop window: CLOSED DUE TO ILLNESS
Spotted in a safari park: ELEPHANTS PLEASE STAY IN YOUR CAR
Seen during a conference:
FOR ANYONE WHO HAS CHILDREN AND DOESN'T KNOW IT,
THERE IS A DAY CARE ON THE FIRST FLOOR
Notice in a field:
THE FARMER ALLOWS WALKERS TO CROSS THE FIELD FOR FREE, BUT THE BULL CHARGES
Message on a leaflet:
IF YOU CANNOT READ,
THIS LEAFLET WILL TELL YOU HOW TO GET LESSONS
Sign on a repair shop door: WE CAN REPAIR ANYTHING.
(PLEASE KNOCK HARD ON THE DOOR - THE BELL DOESN'T WORK)
Spotted in a toilet in a London office block:
TOILET OUT OF ORDER. PLEASE USE FLOOR BELOW
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 00:54:50 -0500
Subject: Re: drum removal
Put both springs inside the shoes and set one shoe into the wheel cylinder
and adjuster slot. Then you can pull or pry the other shoe into position.
Also, the shoes have a certain orientation. That is, which end of the shoe
points clockwise. Unfortunately I cannot recall what the specific is right
now but am sure someone will give you that detail.
Keith Pennell
\
> Thanks for the help. I must admit I missed those blankity screws. That was
> harded to admit than the work to do it. The brakes were also adjusted to
> tight. Now I will order parts and hope to get it back together. What is
the
> tips on putting the shoes on??? I could use some short cuts.
> Thanks Rookie Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 23:40:16 -0800
Subject: address help
<kingpinion@aol.com>
<blanchardhealey@aol.com>
CHARLIE@PCWC.COM
550 alittel669@earthlink.net
does anyone have current e mail addresses for these people?
ron Rader
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:42:54 +1100
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Differential
Hi Steve,
There were various 'limited or no-slip diffs' available for Healey 5 stud
(ie late BN1 - BJ8) rear ends - but never any to my knowledge for the
earlier BN1 4 stud rear end. The application is getting more power to the
road than an 'open' differential can. If you were to watch the 'young hoons
lay rubber' or do 'burn outs' (or whatever the appropriate phrase is) - in
an overpowered car with a 'standard' 'open' diff - you would notice that
there is usually only one black line - ie only one wheel is actually getting
the power. A locked diff will leave 2 identical black lines - both wheels
are getting the power. I personally am not involved in drags - but I think
that best explains the problem a "limited or no-slip' diff overcomes - ie
gets more power to the road by virtue of driving both rear wheels. It is a
huge benefit on the track - getting the power on the road through, and
exiting, a corner.
There are several different methods of 'limiting' the 'slip' of a
differential on a Healey - from 'locking' to 'limiting'. From harshest
(locked) to more passive (limiting slip) , they are:
1. The 'home made' welded or 'locked' diff. You just take a standard diff -
and weld up the sungears. This creates a 'locked diff' i.e. both wheels
always have identical amounts of drive - effecting making it no longer a
'differential'! . The purpose of a differential is to limit the drive to one
wheel as you turn a corner, as - if you think about it - each driven rear
wheel is turning a different arc - and therefore a different distance - each
time you go through a corner. A welded diff is really = no 'differential
between wheels'. This means the car doesn't want to steer around a corner -
and creates a lot of 'power on understeer'. I used to run a welded up diff
in my Sprite a long time ago - when a morrie minor 4.5:1 centre cost $20 and
a mate would weld it up for a few beers - but have never driven a big Healey
with one. Here in Australia they are usually refered to as a 'CIG Locker'
(as CIG - Commonwealth Industrial Gases - was the company which refilled
your oxy & acetelene bottles!!) Definately NOT recommended on a road car, or
in the wet.
2. A detroit Locker (positraction) This is a ratchet based diff, which
'locks' under power. They give 100% lock up of the differential under full
power. They are very aggressive and also cause understeer under cornering
acceleration - as at 100% 'lock' the inside rear wheel is turning the same
number of revolutions as the outside rear wheel in any given corner - so the
inside wheel 'pushes' the car. They were available for big Healeys in the
1960's/ 1970s. I have one, and know of 3 or 4 others in Australia. I
wouldn't recommend them on the road (although I used mine on the road for
several years in my BJ8 - until about a year ago) - as they are quite
'unpredictable' in the wet, they clunk a lot under light acceleration (the
diff can't decide whether you want it to 'lock' or 'unlock' - so it just
keeps locking and unlocking until you make up your mind and put the boot
in!!) and the rear of the car 'steps out' about 2 feet every time you go on/
get off the accelerator (like when you change gear....). Having said that -
in my experience - on a dry track - nothing gets close to a detroit locker
in my book. They are no longer available new. Detroit Lockers were also
ftted as standard to many Ford/Shelby cars of the 60s.
3. Quaife automatic torque biasing diffs - which are still available for 5
stud (ie late BN1 - BJ8) rear ends. The quaife drives just like a standard
'open' differential in road type conditions. They 'lock' about 70 - 80 %
under full power. I have one of these - it is currently in my BJ8. Because
they are 'torque biasing' they transfer load to the 'unloaded' wheel (ie the
outside wheel) - inducing slight oversteer under cornering acceleration. The
best thing about a Quaiffe is that you wouldn't even know that it is in the
car under normal driving conditions - very well behaved, no clunking etc.
This has got to be the best compromise road/track diff. see www.quaife.co.uk
or www.quaifeamerica.com
4. Salisbury 'clutch' diff. This is a 'limited slip' diff - using friction
to 'limit' the slippage which allows the rear wheels to turn different
amounts. I have never had one - so I can't comment. Various people still
make clutch type limited slip diffs - which usually provide about 50 - 60%
'lock'. This is the type of diff I understand the factory used in
competitions.
I hope this helps. Ask the guy whether it is 'welded up', a 'locker', a
'limited slip' or a 'torque biasing' diff.? 4 stud rear end or 5 stud? Then
make your decision based on why you think you need it!!
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <SMickel950@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 6:09 AM
Subject: Limited Slip Differential
>
> In my endless search for pieces and parts I found a guy that says he has a
> limited slip Healey differential. Is there such a thing? Why? What was
the
> application?
>
> Just curious.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:10:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Differential
Those interested in this thread might like to know that Steve Norton's
new CapeSport 3000 uses a 3.54:1 limited slip diff (along with a Getrag
5-sp 'box conversion). See Classic Cars Jan 2002 for details of the car.
See his site for the parts catalogue:
http://www.cape-international.com/
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 05:38:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint the BJ8
ron,
the primary manual you need is your checkbook !!
Ron Rader wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
> Thanks to the 10 of you that responded. All had great suggestions.
>
> I clearly needed to give yall more info. When I purchased my car 2.5 years
>ago
> it had a frame off restoration about 3 years earlier. This car is painted a
> beautiful BRG in every crease of the car including the entire under carriage
>and
> engine compartment. I love the color and will repaint the car in the exact
>same
> color.
>
> Since buying the car I have devoured the concours guide and have read Gary &
> Roger's book cover to cover. I have spent 2 years with Eric Grunden at
> Absolutely British correcting much of the PO's incorrect work. All of the
> restoration is complete except for some minor engine work will be done next
>week
> before it goes to the paint shop.
>
> The paint has some cracks and rust spots peeking through but this car still
>took
> a first in class at the Palos Verdes and Orange County Concours this fall.
>There
> are several areas where the panel fit is not correct and the hood and trunk
>fit
> are not correct. My desire is to take the car from the 95 percentile to the 99
> percentile. Don Fisher has also helped me with the concours detail.
>
> On the other hand the car came with a beautiful tan interior and I am not
> willing to change that to make in "correct" Although I would like the car as
> close as possible to concours it still must meet my needs. I am not removing
>the
> 72 spoke chrome wires nor the radials. I drive the car about 4,000 miles a
>year.
>
> What I am looking for is a great paint job and a better panel fit than when it
> left the factory. Since the shop is only 20 minutes south of my office I will
> visit the car weekly and I will have others with greater expertise go with me
>to
> double check the progress. We are taking the car down to the bare metal to
> remove the filler that the previous restorer used. We are refitting all of the
> panels except the shrouds.
>
> I have both of the books and I will high light the appropriate parts and get
> them to the painter so he can flip through them for reference and I can have
> another set at home. Are there any other manuals that I need?
> Thanks again.
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
>
>
>
> ************************************************************
> "Gary R. Cox" wrote:
>
> Hi Ron,
>
> If your painter does "incredible work" and is doing "Ferraris" he
> Should already have the "tools" (i.e. - knowledge and experience) he needs
> . From your message, it appears your satisfied with the work he does so he
> must have some of the other "tools" also (i.e. - paint booths, HVLP spray
> guns, paint mixing laboratory, etc.).
>
> My first question to you would be... How satisfied are you with the
> appearance of your car's paint AND body panels currently? Any rust
> showing through or waves in the metal? Then the next question would be...How
> much are you willing to spend to achieve the quality your expecting? A
> simple repaint may not be all that expensive. A complete, down-to-the-metal,
> metal
> prep, block and sand, evaporating VOC's between color coats, etc. could
> take 400 - 500 hours.
>
> Gary R. Cox
> '67 BJ8 (in the paint shop)
> Bradenton, FL.
> ***************************************************
>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 2:41 AM
> Subject: paint my car
>
> Listers:
> I am about to have my car re painted and I am looking for some help.
> The painter that I have found does incredible work on all kinds of
> cars from hot rods to Ferraris. He has just finished a 'frame off"
> restoration of an AC., and he can finish my car between Jan and the end of
> April.
> However he has never done a concours restoration of a BJ8.
> I am going to get him a copy of the current concours book and as
> copy of Roger and Gary's restoration book.
> Can anyone suggest any other "tools" that would help to assure as
> close to perfect a job as possible?
> Thanks
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 08:10:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
Hi Steve,
Although others will probably tell you otherwise aluminum cylinders
should not be honed or reamed or anything to correct internal surface
imperfections.
There are very good reasons for this.
During manufacturing the internal surface of the wheel cylinder is
finished to size and anodized to produce a hard, wear resistant surface.
The clearance between the piston and the bore of the cylinder is very
important and is usually no more than 0.005". If this is increased the
cup will, when subjected to the high pressures in your braking system,
be squeezed into the gap. As the drum rotates there is a slight amount
of movement of the piston in the bore and this movement will shear off
the small pieces of the cup which have been squeezed into the gap. This
can often be seen as black discoloration of the brake fluid which will
be noted in the coroners report. Eventually enough material will be
chewed away that the lip of the cup will tear off under pressure. This
usually happens when you are really standing on the pedal trying to
avoid that little kid who has run out onto the road in front of you.
The other problem is that as the cylinder without the anodizing coating
is used the soft aluminum will wear away further increasing the
clearance between the piston and the cylinder. This will show up as
aluminum dust in the brake fluid, also noted in the coroners report.
When it comes to brakes, steering and suspension DON'T SCREW AROUND.
Your life and the lives of other road users are at risk and we don't
want to loose any more people from this list.
Steps down from soapbox and exits ... stage left. ;-)
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 09:13:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
I have had original worn cylinders machined and resleeved with a thin wall
brass sleeve bringing the inside bore diameter back to original size. This
operation was carried out by a reputable local brake shop. These sleeves
have been in use for years in some cases and they seem to be fine. In all
these cases I installed silicone brake fluid into a totally rebuilt system;
hoses, seals, everything. In one particular case when returning to check
things out a number of years later, everything appeared to look fresh and
new.
I believe White Post Restorations (whose ads appear in Hemmings) offer this
resleeving service.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 09:21:50 EST
Subject: Looking for a BJ8
I have a fellow clubmember who needs help finding a BJ8. Otis Cook is looking
for a very nice BJ8. He is knowledgeable about Healey values and knows what
he wants, he just can't seem to find the right car.
If you know of any nice BJ8's contact Otis at <A
HREF="mailto:OtisC@papc.net";>OtisC@papc.net</A>. He is in
Louisville, KY but can travel.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:19:56 -0500
Subject: Hub Nut Socket
Some time ago there wa a thread on hub nut sockets available at Sears. Can
someone give me the Sears part number? I lost my copy.
Thanks
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:42:10 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
In a message dated 12/17/01 5:25:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
SMickel950@aol.com writes:
> I count (830) BN1s & (413) BN2s for a total of (1243) Hundreds.
>
>
Yesterday, while driving down from Maryland to Miami I stopped in Cocoa Beach
Fl. to look at a BN1 that has been for sale for a while. Interestingly the
car was about 100 numbers new than mine--just gave me a warm fuzzy thinking
that they were probably on the plant floor at the same time....
Best to all--Michael Oritt
1000 LeMans (Bn1L222333--in Harper's and Meade's registries)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:20:35 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
Howard Young (hoyo@bellsouth.net (Howard Young)) posted here recently saying
he has BN1L 222325...only 8 numbers earlier than yours.
John Harpers recently published list of registered chassis numbers lists
222316, 222319 and 222333.
Warmer and fuzzier?
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Registry advocate up on blocks
In a message dated 12/19/01 7:42:10 AM Pacific Standard Time, Awgertoo writes:
<< Yesterday, while driving down from Maryland to Miami I stopped in Cocoa
Beach Fl. to look at a BN1 that has been for sale for a while. Interestingly
the car was about 100 numbers new than mine--just gave me a warm fuzzy
thinking that they were probably on the plant floor at the same time....
Best to all--Michael Oritt
1000 LeMans (Bn1L222333--in Harper's and Meade's registries) >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:26:47 -0600
Subject: A little humor to brighten your day
new employee is hired at the Tickle Me Elmo factory. The personnel
> >manager explains her duties, and tells her to report to work promptly at
> >8:00 AM.
> >
> >The next day at 8:45 AM, there's a knock at the personnel manager's door.
The
>
> >assembly line foreman comes in and starts ranting about this new
employee.
>
> >He says she's incredibly slow, and the whole line is backing up. The
> >foreman takes the personnel manager down to the factory floor to show him
> >the problem. Sure enough, Elmos are backed up all over the place.
> >At the end of the Line is the new employee. She has a roll of the
material
>
> >used for the Elmos and a big bag of marbles. They both watch as she cuts
a
>
> >little piece of fabric, wraps it around two marbles, and starts sewing
the
>
> >little package between Elmo's legs. The personnel manager starts laughing
> >hysterically. After several minutes, he pulls himself together, walks
over
>
> >to the woman, and says, "I'm sorry, I guess you misunderstood me
yesterday.
>
> >Your job is to give Elmo two test tickles.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 11:43:10 EST
Subject: Re: Long awaited pinion gear sets
In a message dated 12/18/01 9:14:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Rebeltown@aol.com writes:
> Has anyone heard about when our "looong" awaited rear pinion gear sets are
> supposed to be available? Last I heard was around Xmas time "this Year".
> Just want an update if possible.. thanx
>
>
I talked to Mike Lempert, the fellow who is in charge of the project, last
month while I was passing thru Charleston where he lives. Mike said that
December (this month) still looked good--I know he reads his mail so perhaps
Mike will respond to my cc and give us all an update? I'm sure hoping to
have mine installed before setting out for Tahoe....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:22:31 -0500
Subject: rear hub nut socket
John, I will check the socket at home tonight and post the P/N tomorrow.
Michael Shepard BJ8 Balto. Md.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:23:20 EST
Subject: Re: engine color
In a message dated 12/18/01 6:47:57 PM, tippytoo@eatel.net writes:
<< Does anyone know if any 29D engines were painted a
blue/ aqua color? instead of healey green.
Robert >>
We haven't encountered any instances of 29D (first series 2912cc engines)
engines being painted any other color than Healey green, Robert.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 09:28:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket
Bill Woodruff wrote:
I bought one of these sockets off the shelf at Sears. Part number 47791
12 point 3/4 drive Craftsman socket. Check out www.sears.com and search
for 47791 in their tool area. Don't forget the adapter so it'll fit on
your 1/2" drives.
Bill W.
-------------------
At 07:19 AM 12/19/2001, healey6.com wrote:
>Some time ago there wa a thread on hub nut sockets available at Sears. Can
>someone give me the Sears part number? I lost my copy.
>
>Thanks
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:59:38 -0500
Subject: Hub Nut Socket - More
Thanks everyone. I'm on my way to Sears now.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 10:28:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket
Just a comment and suggestion:
The hub nut is octagonal, so a 12-point socket will make contact at
only 4 points. The right size to fit over the nut will be a little
loose (to see why, consider turning a square nut with a 12 point
socket). With luck it will get the job done, but it isn't ideal.
There are special wrenches available too, costing $30 to $60.
If you are going to use a 12-point, consider wrapping the nut with
some thin soft copper or aluminum sheeting to get more surface bearing
between your socket and the nut. You may end up tapping the socket
over the nut and flashing to seat it. You will also want to consider
grinding off any part of the socket bell mouth, because the nut is not
very deep and you need all the bearing surface you can get.
I have done this and it works. It didn't damage the nut, but it isn't
a soul-satisfying solution. If I had it to do over, I would just
order the right tool from AHSpares in the UK or British Car
Specialists.
-Roland
On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 09:28:14 -0800, Bill Katz
<bkatz@handsonresearch.com> wrote:
::
:: Bill Woodruff wrote:
::
:: I bought one of these sockets off the shelf at Sears. Part number 47791
:: 12 point 3/4 drive Craftsman socket. Check out www.sears.com and search
:: for 47791 in their tool area. Don't forget the adapter so it'll fit on
:: your 1/2" drives.
::
:: Bill W.
:: -------------------
:: At 07:19 AM 12/19/2001, healey6.com wrote:
::
:: >Some time ago there wa a thread on hub nut sockets available at Sears. Can
:: >someone give me the Sears part number? I lost my copy.
:: >
:: >Thanks
:: >John Sims, BN6
:: >Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:39:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket
I made a wrench for the octagonal nut by using a small piece of square
tubing of the appropriate size to fit, and welded it to an old 1/2 drive
socket.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket
>
> Just a comment and suggestion:
>
> The hub nut is octagonal, so a 12-point socket will make contact at
> only 4 points. The right size to fit over the nut will be a little
> loose (to see why, consider turning a square nut with a 12 point
> socket). With luck it will get the job done, but it isn't ideal.
> There are special wrenches available too, costing $30 to $60.
>
> If you are going to use a 12-point, consider wrapping the nut with
> some thin soft copper or aluminum sheeting to get more surface bearing
> between your socket and the nut. You may end up tapping the socket
> over the nut and flashing to seat it. You will also want to consider
> grinding off any part of the socket bell mouth, because the nut is not
> very deep and you need all the bearing surface you can get.
>
> I have done this and it works. It didn't damage the nut, but it isn't
> a soul-satisfying solution. If I had it to do over, I would just
> order the right tool from AHSpares in the UK or British Car
> Specialists.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 09:28:14 -0800, Bill Katz
> <bkatz@handsonresearch.com> wrote:
>
> ::
> :: Bill Woodruff wrote:
> ::
> :: I bought one of these sockets off the shelf at Sears. Part number 47791
> :: 12 point 3/4 drive Craftsman socket. Check out www.sears.com and search
> :: for 47791 in their tool area. Don't forget the adapter so it'll fit on
> :: your 1/2" drives.
> ::
> :: Bill W.
> :: -------------------
> :: At 07:19 AM 12/19/2001, healey6.com wrote:
> ::
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:52:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Hub Nut Socket
I see you have already been given the Sears item number. Any 2-3/16" socket
will work, but if possible, have the socket machined back to a flat surface on
the end. The hub nut in quite thin and the socket as purchased has a lead on
the end which will allow for only about half of the nut to be gripped by the
socket. A little wobble and this partil grip is reduced even more.
Ken Mason
"healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>Some time ago there wa a thread on hub nut sockets available at Sears. Can
>someone give me the Sears part number? I lost my copy.
>
>Thanks
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RBINCORVIA at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:56:59 EST
Subject: Casting upper aluminum windshield pillars100/4
I am strongly considering casting a few sets of upper aluminum window pillars
for the 100/4. I could use a set for my second 100 and they seam to be very
scarce and expensive. What are your thoughts?
Bill Incorvia
53 & 55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:59:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Hub Nut Socket
Did you use TWO square pieces of tubing to get all EIGHT sides?
Ken Mason
"Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com> wrote:
>
>I made a wrench for the octagonal nut by using a small piece of square
>tubing of the appropriate size to fit, and welded it to an old 1/2 drive
>socket.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
>To: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 12:28 PM
>Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket
>
>
>>
>> Just a comment and suggestion:
>>
>> The hub nut is octagonal, so a 12-point socket will make contact at
>> only 4 points. The right size to fit over the nut will be a little
>> loose (to see why, consider turning a square nut with a 12 point
>> socket). With luck it will get the job done, but it isn't ideal.
>> There are special wrenches available too, costing $30 to $60.
>>
>> If you are going to use a 12-point, consider wrapping the nut with
>> some thin soft copper or aluminum sheeting to get more surface bearing
>> between your socket and the nut. You may end up tapping the socket
>> over the nut and flashing to seat it. You will also want to consider
>> grinding off any part of the socket bell mouth, becauseFrom
>healeys-owner@autox.team.net Wed Dec 19 13:11:52 2001
Received: (from majordom@localhost)
by teamfat2.dsl.aros.net (8.11.0/8.11.0) id fBJKAwJ00607
for healeys-actors; Wed, 19 Dec 2001 13:10:58 -0700 (MST)
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2106
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:09:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket
From: Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson@telia.com>
To: Healey lista <healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B846B28E.753%492karlsson@telia.com>
In-Reply-To: <123D9B48.21E53792.02619072@netscape.net>
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Sender: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson@telia.com>
X-Info: in the body of the message
Anyone having access to a milling machine can easily make a hub nut socket.
Drill with a 10 mm drill at each corner then just simply mill the sides
flat.
On the opposite side I milled a hexagon to fit a 16 mm wrench, which is much
easier then making a 1/2" square hole.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:49:46 EST
Subject: Re: engine color
In a message dated 12/19/01 10:50:57 AM, russward@lineone.net writes:
<< I have attended talks where Roger Menadue, Jock Reid, Barry Bilbie and
Margot Healey have been present and they will all tell you the same when
some cars were made if the proper colours were not available they would use
anything available. >>
Yes, I've talked with Margot as well about the times she was called in to the
Morris Works in Coventry line to paint engines when they were short-handed.
(Just kidding). What I have been told by Geoff and by folks who were in the
factory (remember, most of our sources worked in Warwick rather than
Longbridge, Abingdon, or Coventry), was that the engine colors were keyed to
the vehicle in which they were going to be used and so were pretty specific
and weren't varied. However, if the green was running a little low, so I've
been told, they might dilute it with a little more white. As a result, there
is no exact shade of "steel dust gray" (what we now call "Healey Engine
Green") that can be expected to match exactly from engine to engine.
When an engine is found with an unusual color that is different from the
standard Healey colors (steel dust gray or Morris olive green), it is more
likely that the first time the engine was removed for some reason by a repair
shop, it got a quick respray of whatever color the repair shop had on hand.
If the engine was rebuilt, it would probably would have been dipped, which
would have removed all indications of the previous shade.
Bottom line -- if you're restoring to accurate original standards, you'd be
best served to repaint the engine in the standard color. If you're going for
other goals, then paint it whatever color pleases you. But in the fifteen
years I've been researching original cars, I haven't found or heard of an
original example in any color other than the metallic green, or in the case
of Longbridge/Abingdon transition cars and 100Ss, the dark olive Morris green.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mike & Kerry Gigante" <mikeg at vicnet.net.au>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 08:32:58 +1100
Subject: Re: Limited Slip Differential
A few comments:
> A welded diff is really = no 'differential
> between wheels'. This means the car doesn't want to steer around a corner -
> and creates a lot of 'power on understeer'.
power OFF understeer and power ON oversteer.
> Definately NOT recommended on a road car, or in the wet.
Amen to that! To borrow an old joke line: tried it once and didn't like it :-)
The thing wouldn't turn at all untill you put the boot in, then it was a big
crossed up slide. Not good on the road with traffic (and traffic cops).
> 4. Salisbury 'clutch' diff. This is a 'limited slip' diff - using friction
> to 'limit' the slippage which allows the rear wheels to turn different
> amounts. I have never had one - so I can't comment. Various people still
> make clutch type limited slip diffs - which usually provide about 50 - 60%
> 'lock'. This is the type of diff I understand the factory used in
> competitions.
The amount of lock is adjustable in some of these (e.g. the trannex LSD)
by using different ramp angles. You can choose b/n mild and almost full lock-up.
Unlike the Quaife, these units wear out the friction plates. However, the
Quaife has one disadvantage -- if you lift a rear wheel, the quaife operates
as an open diff (i.e. the torque balancing can't function), whereas the
clutch-type will continue to operate as per normal. On the road this is less
of an issue.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:43:44 EST
Subject: Re: Casting upper aluminum windshield pillars100/4
We have some of these available used. all in various conditions.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:08:34 -0800
Subject: Re: engine color
Robert,
My 1006 has a Morris Green 29D engine which has clearly never been painted
another color, though it's not likely it's the original engine since it's
supposed to be a 26D.
> Does anyone know if any 29D engines were painted a
> blue/ aqua color? instead of healey green.
>
> Robert
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 17:30:09 -0800
Subject: Re: engine color
Gary,
I'm new to Healeys for 1 yr or so. My car has a Morris green 29D engine, but
is a drum-braked BN6L. Is there any chance this is the original engine--or
is it more likely a replacement? Where does one go to find out if one's
engine is the original one which came with the chassis?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> Reply-To: Editorgary@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:49:46 EST
> To: russward@lineone.net, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: engine color
>
>
> In a message dated 12/19/01 10:50:57 AM, russward@lineone.net writes:
>
> << I have attended talks where Roger Menadue, Jock Reid, Barry Bilbie and
>
> Margot Healey have been present and they will all tell you the same when
>
> some cars were made if the proper colours were not available they would use
>
> anything available. >>
>
> Yes, I've talked with Margot as well about the times she was called in to the
> Morris Works in Coventry line to paint engines when they were short-handed.
> (Just kidding). What I have been told by Geoff and by folks who were in the
> factory (remember, most of our sources worked in Warwick rather than
> Longbridge, Abingdon, or Coventry), was that the engine colors were keyed to
> the vehicle in which they were going to be used and so were pretty specific
> and weren't varied. However, if the green was running a little low, so I've
> been told, they might dilute it with a little more white. As a result, there
> is no exact shade of "steel dust gray" (what we now call "Healey Engine
> Green") that can be expected to match exactly from engine to engine.
>
> When an engine is found with an unusual color that is different from the
> standard Healey colors (steel dust gray or Morris olive green), it is more
> likely that the first time the engine was removed for some reason by a repair
> shop, it got a quick respray of whatever color the repair shop had on hand.
> If the engine was rebuilt, it would probably would have been dipped, which
> would have removed all indications of the previous shade.
>
> Bottom line -- if you're restoring to accurate original standards, you'd be
> best served to repaint the engine in the standard color. If you're going for
> other goals, then paint it whatever color pleases you. But in the fifteen
> years I've been researching original cars, I haven't found or heard of an
> original example in any color other than the metallic green, or in the case
> of Longbridge/Abingdon transition cars and 100Ss, the dark olive Morris green.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:54:55 EST
Subject: Re: 100 Registries- A new Development
In a message dated 12/19/01 8:23:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hoyo@bellsouth.net writes:
> No,
> we got warm and fuzzy awhile back over our cars AND the fact we both
> had attended Tulane University in New Orleans !! Coincedence? i think
> not! another mystery of the universe!!!
> "doo,doo ,doo,doo"......insert Twilight Zone music here.....HoHoHoYo
>
>
Howard--
Folks who have never worn a greenie beenie just wouldn't understand....
Best---Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 18:53:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
Steve,
Yes, I believe they did reduce the amount of braking force due to the enlarged
braking surface, up from 142 square inches to 188.
>From my befuddled remembrances of my college physics I recall the theoretical
argument about friction not being dependent on area, but the theory does not
seem to hold true in all circumstances in the physical world. If it did racing
slicks would be 1 inch wide instead of 18.
Such a reduction reduction in mechanical advantage would be done to balance the
brakes with regard to the tires and vehicle weight. To much braking force and
the wheels lock up and slide. So long braking (and steering).
Bill Lawrence
SMickel950@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks, Bill:
>
> For the same amount of pressure from the master cylinder, the smaller wheel
> cylinders would have less force. Friction (braking force) is, theoretically,
> independent of surface (brake shoe) area and just a function of the two
> interacting materials. That was the reason for my question, It seems that
> they decreased the amount of braking force...unless they increased the
> diameter of the master cylinder?
>
> I'll search for White Post Restorations and see what they have to offer.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Steve
>
> In a message dated 12/18/01 4:57:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> ynotink@qwest.net writes:
>
> << There are services out there which will sleeve them with bronze. the one
> that
> comes to mind is White Post Restorations. I think they are in Vermont or
> somewhere around there. You should be able to find them in Hemmings.
>
> The reason for varying the size of the cylinders is to vary the amount of
> force
> the brakes will generate for a given amount of input force. The cylinders
> were
> probably reduced from 1" to 7/8" when the brake shoes and drums were
> increased
> in width. Greater swept area means greater braking force for a given amount
> of
> input force. So the later, wider (1-3/4" to 2-1/4")brakes gave sufficient
> braking force with a lower pedal pressure.
>
> Bill Lawrence >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:26:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint the BJ8
Hi again Ron,
I thought I would mention to you about a new DuPont product recently
introduced that I am using on my exterior paint refinish. It is DuPont Epoxy
DTM Primer/Sealer 2510S/2540S/2570S. The nice thing about this product is
that it can be used as a pre-coat under body filler, primers and topcoats.
Body fillers must be applied to bare metal for proper adhesion. This
practice creates the potential for future rust problems. With this product,
you don't have to sand through the epoxy primer coat to get to bare metal
for the filler. You can apply filler directly on top of the primer! I do
believe this will greatly reduce the likely hood of exterior panel surface
rust.
By using epoxy primer for chassis and interior body panels (which don't have
to be sanded through prior to application of single stage paint, because the
finish in these areas are not that important) and then using the new Dupont
DTM primer on exterior body panels and under the bonnet and boot
panels...these cars may never, ever rust again! My restoration is not a
concours (to many modifications) so I have even used stone guard coating in
the fender wells and other interior areas for additional corrosion
protection.
Have a wonderful Holiday...
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (being restored by Paul Tsikuris, but painted in my shop)
Bradenton, FL.
----- Original Message -----
> The paint has some cracks and rust spots peeking >
>We are taking the car down to the bare metal to
> remove the filler that the previous restorer used. >
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 00:08:53 EST
Subject: Big Healey Sighting Confirmed
The car I spotted on the screen for 1/2 second in the preview of the new
comedy Royal Tenenbaums is, in fact, an Austin Healey! Saw the movie today -
apparently it is playing in New York and L.A., and as they say in the
business, opens wide on Christmas Day. The car is a white BJ8 with a red
interior. About half way thru the movie, the car is shown from the side,
with Gwyneth Paltrow sitting in it. Then, about 15 minutes before the end of
the movie, it comes flying down the street, and sad to say, the driver, a
drug addict/artist friend of the Tenenbaum family, crashes it into the front
of the Tenenbaum residence (they don't actually show the crash), where it
lands up against a fence, about 2 feet off the ground, with broken headlight,
cracked windshield, and bent bonnet. I can't believe they did that to an
Austin Healey! Here's hoping they started with a wrecked one and filmed the
movie backwards!!
Sharon Tanihara
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 21:57:13 -0800
Subject: Re: engine color
Steve: What you need is a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
certificate.
Go to www.healey.org (AHCUSA) and click on Production Records or
www.healeyclub.org (AHCA) and click on Obtain Data on Your Healey.
Either site will direct you to the Heritage Trust.
Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: engine color
>
> Gary,
> I'm new to Healeys for 1 yr or so. My car has a Morris green 29D engine,
but
> is a drum-braked BN6L. Is there any chance this is the original engine--or
> is it more likely a replacement? Where does one go to find out if one's
> engine is the original one which came with the chassis?
> Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 05:23:54 -0600
Subject: Tulane
((((( No,
> we got warm and fuzzy awhile back over our cars AND the fact we both
> had attended Tulane University in New Orleans !! Coincedence? i think
> not! another mystery of the universe!!!
> "doo,doo ,doo,doo"......insert Twilight Zone music here.....HoHoHoYo
>
>
Howard--
Folks who have never worn a greenie beenie just wouldn't understand....
Best---Michael)))))))
Sometime ago I was severely criticized on this list for incorrectly spelling
"concours".
Not having attended Tulane, I am not the best speller in the world. Is that
a coincidence?
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 07:08:51 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey Sighting Confirmed
In a message dated 12/20/01 12:12:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Healeygal@cs.com writes:
> Here's hoping they started with a wrecked one and filmed the
> movie backwards!!
>
Hmmm--so they would have had to have restored it during the making of the
movie?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 07:59:33 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 Wheel Cylinders (1" bore)
Good memory on the Physics...this isn't another Tulane promo, is it?
The theory breaks down at the ends of the spectrum...large forces, small
areas, etc. My skinny tires went up the wet, muddy road better than the guy
with wide tires.
Do the early Healeys with the 1" bore wheel cylinders have too much braking
force? I can't imagine.
Steve
Brutus on blocks.
In a message dated 12/19/01 6:11:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ynotink@qwest.net writes:
<< From my befuddled remembrances of my college physics I recall the
theoretical
argument about friction not being dependent on area, but the theory does not
seem to hold true in all circumstances in the physical world. If it did
racing
slicks would be 1 inch wide instead of 18. >>
<<To much braking force and
the wheels lock up and slide. So long braking (and steering).>>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeygal at cs.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 08:41:45 EST
Subject: Re: Big Healey Sighting Confirmed
Yeah, so someone out there could now be driving what looked to be a pretty
nice Healey when it was in running condition!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Austinhpas at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 09:39:47 EST
Subject: Rocker Gear
Listers,
What is the collective wisdom of the list on rebuilding a BJ8 Rocker gear -
I have oil spewing like fountains out of my rockers! I have seen a thread on
this list on brazing up the holes in the rockers - and closing off the ends -
this sounds radical!!
I now have a tufrided shaft and new bushings, and plan to take these to a
machine shop to get the bushings put in my rockers to fit the new shaft. Is
there anything else I should do to improve oil pressure and general longevity
of the engine!!
TIA,
Happy Xmas and New Year to All,
Pete Sandy,
'67 BJ8
'59 AN5 x 2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 08:58:16 -0600
Subject: Car Tow
Listers,
My wife and I are picking up my Christmas present, a '54 BN1 :-) We will be
leaving from Central Texas (Austin) Friday, December 28th and arriving in the
San Diego area Sunday, December 30th.
I have not decided whether I'll pull a trailer to CA. or rent once we
arrive... does anyone need a car towed in between states to help offset gas
expenses?
Merry Christmas,
Charlie & Adriane Stewart
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:41:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Casting upper aluminum windshield pillars100/4
Hi Bill,
I'm not sure that I would rush into this project.
We have 8 good used pairs in stock, at $138/ pr and have sold 2 pairs in
22 years. They do not appear to be what I would describe as a "fast
mover"
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of RBINCORVIA@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2001 1:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Casting upper aluminum windshield pillars100/4
I am strongly considering casting a few sets of upper aluminum window
pillars
for the 100/4. I could use a set for my second 100 and they seam to be
very
scarce and expensive. What are your thoughts?
Bill Incorvia
53 & 55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:58:33 EST
Subject: Starter Question
Thanks to everyone who responded on my question about my starter problems. We
are still working on it.
Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Off to Tyler TX for some winter golf and a new granddaughter's spoiling.
John Stevens
"Ruby" BJ8 27621
AHCA/AHCUSA
JohnbS7257@aol.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 10:06:39 -0600
Subject: timing chain links?
Yesterday , I was told by a local british car shop to make sure the 13th and
15th link was set on the timing chain for an 29d , 3000 engine. He then took
off to answer the phone and I was told he would be a while. Since I
couldn't wait does any body know what's special about
those links? Thanks Robert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 11:30:34 EST
Subject: Re: timing chain links?
When installing the timing chain there are a lot of mistakes made.
You need to have 13 links between the dots on the oposite side of the timing
chain tensioner this would work out to 15 links total from dot to dot.
The easiest wy to set it up is to lay the chain out on the bench and mark one
link with white out, then count out 13 links and mark the next link with the
wwhite out. Then mark the two dots on the gears, then install the chain with
all the white marks and dots lined up with the short side oposite the
tensioner, also you should reference the sefvice manual page A 16 .
******************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 11:52:38 EST
Subject: Morgan Sighting
For you British car and culture fans: I've just been told -- haven't
confirmed it yet -- that in Harry Potter-the Movie, when Harry and Hagrid go
down the secret street in London where they buy Harry's school supplies
(robes, wand, iron cauldron, etc.) if you look quickly, you'll see among all
the wizardry shops...wait for it...
A Morgan dealer!
Let me know if anyone else can spot this -- it may take a second or third
viewing, because that particular scene is rich with texture and detail.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 13:11:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Car Tow
Ron,
Our ex-Governor, George W Bush changed that silly law. There is now a
bounty paid for all rust free A-H's taken from California... besides, you
guys have the great weather, why should you have all the cool cars! ;-)
Charlie
> C & A:
> if I remember correctly there is law prohibiting the export of
> Healeys from California to Texas! :-)
> Ron
> Los Angeles
>
> Charlie & Adriane wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > My wife and I are picking up my Christmas present, a '54 BN1 :-) We
will be
> > leaving from Central Texas (Austin) Friday, December 28th and arriving
in the
> > San Diego area Sunday, December 30th.
> >
> > I have not decided whether I'll pull a trailer to CA. or rent once we
> > arrive... does anyone need a car towed in between states to help offset
gas
> > expenses?
> >
> > Merry Christmas,
> >
> > Charlie & Adriane Stewart
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 14:25:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Car Tow
That restriction only applies to produce. More specifically, fruit and nuts.
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> Ron,
>
> Our ex-Governor, George W Bush changed that silly law. There is now a
> bounty paid for all rust free A-H's taken from California... besides, you
> guys have the great weather, why should you have all the cool cars! ;-)
>
> Charlie
>
> > C & A:
> > if I remember correctly there is law prohibiting the export of
> > Healeys from California to Texas! :-)
> > Ron
> > Los Angeles
> >
> > Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > My wife and I are picking up my Christmas present, a '54 BN1 :-) We
> will be
> > > leaving from Central Texas (Austin) Friday, December 28th and arriving
> in the
> > > San Diego area Sunday, December 30th.
> > >
> > > I have not decided whether I'll pull a trailer to CA. or rent once we
> > > arrive... does anyone need a car towed in between states to help offset
> gas
> > > expenses?
> > >
> > > Merry Christmas,
> > >
> > > Charlie & Adriane Stewart
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 13:54:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Car Tow
I love adventure, but a 24 hour one way trip from California to Texas on
I-10 along the Mexican border in a 46 year old British car??? There is
absolutely nothing between here an there except buzzards, sidewinders, sand
and idiots driving 46 year old British cars ;-)... pull out your Atlas and
you'll see what I mean.
C&A
Drive it home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!-- Original Message -----
Dos
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:05:31 -0600
Subject: Quantined virus help,needed
Listers,
Very sorry to bomb the list, but could any of the "much smarter than
I" computer guys contact me off the list on this please.
I have 2 of the Badtrans viruses in "quantine" starring at me
fevorishly trying to escape. Norton says it cannot repair. Can I simply
"Delete" them then hit "delete all Deleted Folder" to cancel them forever
or do I have to keep them in "quantine" until Norton comes up with a fix.
Thanks, now get back to the car questions, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 12:03:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Car Tow
Believe me, Sacramento has that market cornered.
Terry
"Robert J. Denton" wrote:
> That restriction only applies to produce. More specifically, fruit and nuts.
>
> Charlie & Adriane wrote:
>
> > Ron,
> >
> > Our ex-Governor, George W Bush changed that silly law. There is now a
> > bounty paid for all rust free A-H's taken from California... besides, you
> > guys have the great weather, why should you have all the cool cars! ;-)
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> > > C & A:
> > > if I remember correctly there is law prohibiting the export of
> > > Healeys from California to Texas! :-)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:15:50 EST
Subject: Re: Starter Question
In a message dated 12/20/01 10:01:42 AM Central Standard Time,
JohnbS7257@aol.com writes:
<< Off to Tyler TX >>
You will be in Healey country for sure. Matter of fact, all north Texas is
great Healey contry. We have NTAHC agents in Tyler too!
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:15:52 -0500
Subject: RE: Rocker Gear
Hi Pete,
When you are replacing the rocker bushes a little forward planning pays
dividends.
If you look carefully at the original bushes you will note that there
are 2 oil holes and an oil "way" in each. You will also note that the
"way" is penetrated at one end by one of the holes and that the other
hole (at the top) does not link with the "way".
The trick is to drill the hole that feeds oil to the tappet adjuster
screw before you press the bushes in.
Make sure that you drill it in the correct position on the correct end
of the "way".
You then press the bushes in and then drill the other hole before you
REAM the bushes to size. Honing is not recommended because of the risk
of hone stone residue remaining in the soft bush material.
Don't forget the end plugs into the new shaft if they are not already
there.
Be very careful of the thread for the oil feed banjo bolt in one of the
pedestals. This is easily stripped and is a special 3/8" 28 T.P.I.
thread. The trick here is to ensure that the banjo bolt is tightened
into the hole, with the feed hole in the shaft lined up, before you
tighten down the pedestal bolts. Once the shaft is securely torqued down
remove the bolt and fit the oil feed line using new crush washers.
BTW we sell overhauled assemblies if you are interested.
Other places for oil pressure loss, other than the usual bearings and
pump, are the cam bearings and the timing chain tensioner.
Regards and merry Xmas,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Austinhpas@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 9:40 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rocker Gear
Listers,
What is the collective wisdom of the list on rebuilding a BJ8 Rocker
gear -
I have oil spewing like fountains out of my rockers! I have seen a
thread on
this list on brazing up the holes in the rockers - and closing off the
ends -
this sounds radical!!
I now have a tufrided shaft and new bushings, and plan to take these to
a
machine shop to get the bushings put in my rockers to fit the new shaft.
Is
there anything else I should do to improve oil pressure and general
longevity
of the engine!!
TIA,
Happy Xmas and New Year to All,
Pete Sandy,
'67 BJ8
'59 AN5 x 2
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 12:51:43 -0800
Subject: yellow 100S
Does anyone have any old race programs from the Midwest or East coast from
the 50's that show a yellow 100S? I have heard rumors that some racer
painted one yellow.
Ken Freese
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 14:06:50 -0800
Subject: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
Merry Christmas all,
If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I saw
a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
Wal-Mart.
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
60 Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:18:45 -0600
Subject: Re: timing chain links?
check your shop manual !!
Robert Barback wrote:
>
>
> Yesterday , I was told by a local british car shop to make sure the 13th and
> 15th link was set on the timing chain for an 29d , 3000 engine. He then took
> off to answer the phone and I was told he would be a while. Since I
> couldn't wait does any body know what's special about
> those links? Thanks Robert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 17:22:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
I'm not sure if I'm alone in this this, but try and follow me.
I don't have any interest in Hot Wheels, whatsoever. However, I don't hold it
against anyone if they feel that these toys are to be held in high esteem.
How about talking to/with major domo and creating an Austin Healey Hot Wheels
list. That way you guys with the toy cars don't get bothered with the real car
chatter. Wadda ya say?
"Robert D. Hughes" wrote:
> Merry Christmas all,
> If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I saw
> a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
> with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
> blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
> showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
> has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
> Wal-Mart.
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
> 60 Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:25:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
Hi Robert:
If it has flames coming from under the front wheel well it's probably due to
a leaking carburetor fuel bowl. Either that or the Prince of Darkness has a
short somewhere in the lights.
$4.98 sounds like a fair price for any Healey that doesn't leak oil even one
that has been screwed up with a V8 engine and a blower coming out of its
hood.
I'd be careful of the other three cars, though, they might be 1.) An MG 2.)
A Triumph 3.) a Jag.
Maybe you could trade them back in and get a Healey that leaks oil!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 16:41:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Car Tow
my bn6 has traveled that healey trail as well as many others. a healey trek on
any road will be a great trip !! healeys, particularly the 100-SIX, were built
to run until the road runs out -- the vintage ads said so.
happy healeying,
jerry
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
>
>
> I love adventure, but a 24 hour one way trip from California to Texas on
> I-10 along the Mexican border in a 46 year old British car??? There is
> absolutely nothing between here an there except buzzards, sidewinders, sand
> and idiots driving 46 year old British cars ;-)... pull out your Atlas and
> you'll see what I mean.
>
> C&A
>
>
>
> Drive it home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!-- Original Message -----
>
> Dos
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 15:06:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
Wow! I didn't think anything about Healeys (no matter what) would
get someone annoyed at me. I know some people are interested and
was just trying to help.
Robert Hughes
REAL 65 BJ8
At 05:22 PM 12/20/2001 -0500, Robert J. Denton wrote:
I'm not sure if I'm alone in this this, but try and follow me.
I don't have any interest in Hot Wheels, whatsoever. However, I don't hold it
against anyone if they feel that these toys are to be held in high esteem.
How about talking to/with major domo and creating an Austin Healey Hot Wheels
list. That way you guys with the toy cars don't get bothered with the real car
chatter. Wadda ya say?
"Robert D. Hughes" wrote:
> Merry Christmas all,
> If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I saw
> a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
> with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
> blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
> showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
> has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
> Wal-Mart.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:19:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
If there is no oil dripping, what good is it? I always use my oil trail to
find my way home.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> Merry Christmas all,
> If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I saw
> a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
> with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
> blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
> showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
> has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
> Wal-Mart.
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
> 60 Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:22:33 -0500
Subject: Re: yellow 100S
Interestingly enough, I am working on a 1956 BN2 which has the remnants of
yellow paint inside the windshield frame. I do not believe that my vehicle
is a 100S.
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:27:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
What I say is: I'm not interested in model Healeys, either. But if we all
get our own list with only people who are interested in our little corner of
the Healey world, then we are going to have a lot of lists, each with
relatively few people.
I think any topic related to Healeys should be welcome on this list. If
something comes up you don't particularly like, delete it. I'm sure the
model Healey enthusiasts will be deleting a lot of stuff on Concours,
racing, registries, etc.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
>
> I'm not sure if I'm alone in this this, but try and follow me.
>
> I don't have any interest in Hot Wheels, whatsoever. However, I don't hold
it
> against anyone if they feel that these toys are to be held in high esteem.
>
> How about talking to/with major domo and creating an Austin Healey Hot
Wheels
> list. That way you guys with the toy cars don't get bothered with the real
car
> chatter. Wadda ya say?
>
> "Robert D. Hughes" wrote:
>
> > Merry Christmas all,
> > If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I
saw
> > a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
> > with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
> > blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
> > showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
> > has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
> > Wal-Mart.
> >
> > Robert Hughes
> > 65 BJ8
> > 60 Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:04:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
Well said. I never get tired of anything Healey.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
>
> What I say is: I'm not interested in model Healeys, either. But if we
all
> get our own list with only people who are interested in our little corner
of
> the Healey world, then we are going to have a lot of lists, each with
> relatively few people.
> I think any topic related to Healeys should be welcome on this list. If
> something comes up you don't particularly like, delete it. I'm sure the
> model Healey enthusiasts will be deleting a lot of stuff on Concours,
> racing, registries, etc.
>
> Happy Healeydays!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USa
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> To: "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh@tscnet.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 5:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
>
>
> >
> > I'm not sure if I'm alone in this this, but try and follow me.
> >
> > I don't have any interest in Hot Wheels, whatsoever. However, I don't
hold
> it
> > against anyone if they feel that these toys are to be held in high
esteem.
> >
> > How about talking to/with major domo and creating an Austin Healey Hot
> Wheels
> > list. That way you guys with the toy cars don't get bothered with the
real
> car
> > chatter. Wadda ya say?
> >
> > "Robert D. Hughes" wrote:
> >
> > > Merry Christmas all,
> > > If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I
> saw
> > > a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
> > > with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
> > > blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
> > > showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
> > > has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
> > > Wal-Mart.
> > >
> > > Robert Hughes
> > > 65 BJ8
> > > 60 Sprite
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:33:56 -0600
Subject: Fw: Car Tow
Hey Jerry,
You ought to mail out your old A-H trips/adventures... I never get tired of
British car trips! I bet you could get some great stories going on the
list... Please think about it.
Charlie Stewart
my bn6 has traveled that healey trail as well as many others. a healey
trek on any road will be a great trip !! healeys, particularly the 100-SIX,
were built to run until the road runs out -- the vintage ads said so.
happy healeying,
jerry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 18:37:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Blue Hot Wheels Healey
shake it off !! you have as much right as anyone else. that's why they make a
delete key.
Robert D. Hughes wrote:
>
>
> Wow! I didn't think anything about Healeys (no matter what) would
> get someone annoyed at me. I know some people are interested and
> was just trying to help.
>
> Robert Hughes
> REAL 65 BJ8
>
> At 05:22 PM 12/20/2001 -0500, Robert J. Denton wrote:
> I'm not sure if I'm alone in this this, but try and follow me.
> I don't have any interest in Hot Wheels, whatsoever. However, I don't hold it
> against anyone if they feel that these toys are to be held in high esteem.
> How about talking to/with major domo and creating an Austin Healey Hot Wheels
> list. That way you guys with the toy cars don't get bothered with the real car
> chatter. Wadda ya say?
>
> "Robert D. Hughes" wrote:
> > Merry Christmas all,
> > If this came across the List earlier, I missed it, but Tuesday I saw
> > a blue Hot Wheels Healey that was new to me. It is the same 100
> > with blower that is in the Collector Car series, except that it is all
> > blue with red interior and flames from the front wheel well (no oil
> > showing underneath). It is in a gift pack with four other cars and
> > has a model/product number of 50078. The pack cost $4.93 at
> > Wal-Mart.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 19:29:55 -0600
Subject: timing chain help
Thanks for the info. My service manual is with the man rebuilding my
engine. Well he gave it to me in the first place and I guess I should say I
gave it back for a while.
I could not remember seeing anything different about the replacement timing
chain when I delivered it.
Thanks Robert
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:17:21 -0500
Subject: Air Intake Tubes
Does anyone have a handy dandy way of cleaning the fabric heater/ cold air
intake tubes that run on either side of the engine compartment. Mine have a
few years of accumulated dirt and grease on them. Thanks.
Scot
'66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCooperman at aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:35:17 EST
Subject: Engine Colour
I have a 1965 Series III BJ8 Healey that has just been put on the road after
a 28 year hibernation. Everything on this car is totally original yet the
engine is painted in 'Healey Blue' - which matches the car. There is no
evidence anywhere that the engine was ever removed. The engine number is
29KRU/H 5130. Is this a factory deed or an aftermarket event???
Richard Cooperman
'65 BJ8
In a message dated 12/19/01 10:50:57 AM, russward@lineone.net writes:
<< I have attended talks where Roger Menadue, Jock Reid, Barry Bilbie and
Margot Healey have been present and they will all tell you the same when
some cars were made if the proper colours were not available they would use
anything available. >>
Yes, I've talked with Margot as well about the times she was called in to the
Morris Works in Coventry line to paint engines when they were short-handed.
(Just kidding). What I have been told by Geoff and by folks who were in the
factory (remember, most of our sources worked in Warwick rather than
Longbridge, Abingdon, or Coventry), was that the engine colors were keyed to
the vehicle in which they were going to be used and so were pretty specific
and weren't varied. However, if the green was running a little low, so I've
been told, they might dilute it with a little more white. As a result, there
is no exact shade of "steel dust gray" (what we now call "Healey Engine
Green") that can be expected to match exactly from engine to engine.
When an engine is found with an unusual color that is different from the
standard Healey colors (steel dust gray or Morris olive green), it is more
likely that the first time the engine was removed for some reason by a repair
shop, it got a quick respray of whatever color the repair shop had on hand.
If the engine was rebuilt, it would probably would have been dipped, which
would have removed all indications of the previous shade.
Bottom line -- if you're restoring to accurate original standards, you'd be
best served to repaint the engine in the standard color. If you're going for
other goals, then paint it whatever color pleases you. But in the fifteen
years I've been researching original cars, I haven't found or heard of an
original example in any color other than the metallic green, or in the case
of Longbridge/Abingdon transition cars and 100Ss, the dark olive Morris green.
Cheers
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 21:56:25 -0600
Subject: Final, Quantined Virus Help
Wow, we've got a lot of "smarter than I" computer guys (and girls)on these
lists. Thanks for the help.
There's still a lot of differences of opinion here but we're not gonna bring
that up again. The problem has been resolved as far as my "puter" goes. So
we're virus free according to my Virus soft ware anyway. ( Norton 2002 with
all updates)
Back to the Healey games! THANKS AGAIN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:42:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Colour
Engine 29K/RU/2171 was definitively Healey Green from the factory.
Sid 65 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <RCooperman@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 7:35 PM
Subject: Engine Colour
>
> I have a 1965 Series III BJ8 Healey that has just been put on the road
after
> a 28 year hibernation. Everything on this car is totally original yet the
> engine is painted in 'Healey Blue' - which matches the car. There is no
> evidence anywhere that the engine was ever removed. The engine number is
> 29KRU/H 5130. Is this a factory deed or an aftermarket event???
>
> Richard Cooperman
> '65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WmsRbt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 06:56:55 EST
Subject: Furflex and Christmas gift
All,
I'm planning on changing my fur(flex) on my 66BJ8. This is the door trim
that is forever loose and flapping at the top. Any tips on doing this
easily, this stuff is too expensive to experiment with. (Can i end a sentence
with a preposition?)
As a Christmas gift, here is a tool to easily remove the OD cover. I painted
mine red for the season.
_______
| |
| | Bar 1/4" x 1" x 18"
| |
| |
| _ |
| | | | 2-Bar 1/4 x 1/4" x 1 3/4"
| | | |
| |_| | __________________________
| |
| | 2 9/16"
| _ | __________________________
| | | |
| | | |
| |_| | 2"
|____\ _| ___________________________
\
\
\-- weld 3/16 all-around except 1/4" at ends for
fitting into notches at od cover.
(
bend handle slightly past 1/4" sq bar for clearance (you'll see
what I mean if you don't bend the handle!)
Thanks in advance.
Robert
66BJ8
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 08:37:04 EST
Subject: BN1 oil pump info?
Hello again. Does someone have the clearance specs for the oil pump gears for
a BN1? I have 2 pumps, both look little worn. Thanks for any info here.
Cheers,
John Wright
BN1
BN6
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 08:57:14 EST
Subject: BMC part # help needed
Hi Listers, does someone have a BMC parts list that can identify these 2
parts numbers? 22A 141 1st motion shaft. I suspect for a Mkl Sprite. AHA 6368
fog lamp bracket, similar to the type used on MGA. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
John Wright
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 09:23:46 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 oil pump info?
Hi John:
The 3000 pumps use the same gears as the BN1, so you might use the 3000
specs as a guide. Radial clearance between gears and pump body = .00125" -
.0025". end float = .0005" - .002".
See section AAA.1 in the 6 Cyl workshop manual.
Good Luck, Jim
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 09:54:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Furflex and Christmas gift
Thats a good lookin tool. Now, what's an overdrive cover?
----- Original Message -----
From: <WmsRbt@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 5:56 AM
Subject: Furflex and Christmas gift
>
> All,
>
> I'm planning on changing my fur(flex) on my 66BJ8. This is the door trim
> that is forever loose and flapping at the top. Any tips on doing this
> easily, this stuff is too expensive to experiment with. (Can i end a
sentence
> with a preposition?)
>
> As a Christmas gift, here is a tool to easily remove the OD cover. I
painted
> mine red for the season.
>
> _______
> | |
> | | Bar 1/4" x 1" x 18"
> | |
> | |
> | _ |
> | | | | 2-Bar 1/4 x 1/4" x 1 3/4"
> | | | |
> | |_| | __________________________
> | |
> | | 2 9/16"
> | _ | __________________________
> | | | |
> | | | |
> | |_| | 2"
> |____\ _| ___________________________
> \
> \
> \-- weld 3/16 all-around except 1/4" at ends for
> fitting into notches at od cover.
> (
> bend handle slightly past 1/4" sq bar for clearance (you'll see
> what I mean if you don't bend the handle!)
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Robert
> 66BJ8
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:05:06 -0500
Subject: Re: engine color
Robert: I have an early Longbridge BN4 the original color of the engine seemed
to be a slate or steel blue. I similar to the 4 cylinder cars. I really
believe
that some paint which was available from earlier models were used on later
models
to cut manufacturing costs. In this hobby there are no absolutes !! Bring on
the
dissenters!!! By the way I matched the color and painted the engine that color.
Oh well, so much for concours !! But I enjoy driving the car !! EDS
Robert Barback wrote:
> Does anyone know if any 29D engines were painted a
> blue/ aqua color? instead of healey green.
>
> Robert
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 07:05:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Car Tow-added trivia
I-10 is a great drive if you like the desert. Interestingly, El Paso is less
than half way from Los Angeles to Huston. Assume it's about the same for San
Diego.
Take the detour 30 miles south from Deming NM to Columbus at the Mexican
border and you can see what remains of the town Pancho Villa attacked in
1916. Villa was very proud of the fact he was the foreign "army" to invade
the US since the war of 1812.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
> Reply-To: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
> Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 13:54:16 -0600
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Car Tow
>
>
> I love adventure, but a 24 hour one way trip from California to Texas on
> I-10 along the Mexican border in a 46 year old British car??? There is
> absolutely nothing between here an there except buzzards, sidewinders, sand
> and idiots driving 46 year old British cars ;-)... pull out your Atlas and
> you'll see what I mean.
>
> C&A
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:01:03 -0500
Subject: RE: BMC part # help needed
Hi John,
As you suspected the 22A141 is a smoothe case Sprite gearbox 1st motion
shaft.
Can't help with the AHA6368.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mogfrog1@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 8:57 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BMC part # help needed
Hi Listers, does someone have a BMC parts list that can identify these 2
parts numbers? 22A 141 1st motion shaft. I suspect for a Mkl Sprite. AHA
6368
fog lamp bracket, similar to the type used on MGA. Any help is
appreciated.
Thanks
John Wright
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 07:05:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJ8 window winding effort - too much!
Can anyone on the group tell me if there is tips to make the windows on a BJ8
wind up/down more
freely? My car has been put back into service after a 14 year storage period
and the windows
require a lot of effort to work. Any information regrading lubrication points,
bushings, guides,
or whatever needs attention would be greatly appreciated. - Jack
jaschaible@yahoo.com
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 22:50:16 -0500
Subject: Fw: MERRY CHRISTMAS 2001....FROM THE Casavant's
----- Original Message -----
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: <RJREEVES@ALLTEL.NET>; <dlreeves@bellsouth.net>; <reganbj8@aol.com>;
<tcschelling@compuzone.net>; <searsdidit@aol.com>; <hebe314@aol.com>;
<RKSDMS@MEDIAONE.NET>; <rstollar@vitausa.com>; <lswinney@tietex.com>;
<TGEE1@AOL.COM>; <TTHOMAS313@AOL.COM>; <rosebud@netunlimited.net>;
<fredbt7@att.net>; <edidoneit@aol.com>; <jazzara@urrc.net>;
<BRENDAB@SCHOOLGAMES.COM>; <debbie_bolick/cfi@centuryfurniture.com>;
<wbrown@KIDDE-FIRE.COM>; <allancas@utinet.net>; <wcameron@vantagep.com>;
<johnrc@salisbury.net>; <hamjond@worldnet.att.net>;
<ldavi@ci.salisbury.nc.us>; <ladido@aol.com>; <SDRIVER@SHUFORDMILLS.COM>;
<doug.elias@us.nestle.com>; <tonyafhall@msn.com>;
<bharrison@carolinamills.com>; <MMHARRIN@CATAWBA.EDU>;
<jrhawk73@bellsouth.net>; <jehmjtjee@aol.com>; <charliehouse@asmsouth.com>;
<annebill@mindspring.com>; &l
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2001 7:16 PM
Subject: Fw: MERRY CHRISTMAS 2001....FROM THE REEVES'
>
> ----- Forwarded by Chuck Reeves/BARNET on 12/20/01 07:11 PM -----
>
>
>
> (See attached file: ChristmasCard(4).exe)
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/x-msdownload which had
a name of ChristmasCard(4).exe]
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:07:28 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Colour
Just a footnote on the history of engine colors:
If you were a Healey owner in the seventies it is was very hard to find
parts. We did not have catalogs offering every part imaginable, you had to
network to find used parts on your own. Plus most of us had no real sense of
historical correctness, the cars were not as valuable and enthusiasts drove
them simply because they enjoyed the marque.
Healey Green Engine paint was long unavailable during this period. I remember
using a Rustloeum Green/Blue paint that was recommended by the editors of
Healey Highlights Magazine circa 1976 as a close match. When I repainted the
engine the correct color years later I realized how far off that color was.
This could be where the reports of blue engines comes from
So when you curse the DO remember that from the production of the car to the
current state of the hobby there was a time in the middle when things were
really bleak for the marque and we were all improvising.
PS I recently ran into a friend who pulled his car out of twenty years of
storage to resume a restoration derailed by kids, divorce etc. All the new
parts in packages were from Walt Blanck. it was like a time capsule.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:14:23 EST
Subject: Re: Furflex and Christmas gift
In a message dated 12/21/01 8:53:37 AM Central Standard Time,
mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net writes:
<< Now, what's an overdrive cover? >>
Get out and get under your AH! It's the drain plug that holds a screen filter.
Don
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:17:54 -0600
Subject: timing chain bright links
Robert,
Another way to check, beyond counting and marking links, is this: on
a 6 cylinder Healey motor the cam and crank are in correct position
relative to each other when the keyway on the crank and the keyway
on the cam both point straight up. If you look at the photo in the
factory manual it's only obvious if you know that the link locating dot
on the cam sprocket is directly above the keyway. So you can rotate
your 2 shafts to "keyway up" and fit the chain and sprockets easiest
like that. This leaves you timed on #6 cylinder, so one crank rotation
is necessary to bring the timing to #1 cylinder.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:26:56 EST
Subject: Re: Furflex and Christmas gift
The furflex has always been a problem falling off, we have started riviting
the door seals on along the rear vertical section just like the seal on the
windshield is and it has worked great. The rivets are then covered up with
the rear upholstery panel and are no longer visible. We also do this on the
front section as well. Usually 3 -4 on the rear section and 2 on the front
section.
***************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Jag62e at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 12:52:32 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 window winding effort - too much!
In a message dated 12/21/2001 8:08:23 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
jaschaible@yahoo.com writes:
<<
Can anyone on the group tell me if there is tips to make the windows on a
BJ8 wind up/down more
freely? My car has been put back into service after a 14 year storage
period and the windows
re >>
After pulling the panel off, clean the old grease in the track at the bottom
of the window frame. Check that the plastic guides are not broken, spray a
little silicone in the tracks, and re-lube everything.
Dick North
BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:49:31 EST
Subject: The Night Before Christmas
Got a version of this today, thought you'd enjoy it.
(confess I made a few changes).
Happy Holidays
Gary
'Twas the night before Christmas, and all through the valley,
Not a sports car was stirring, not even a Ferrari.
The stockings were hung on the garage door with care,
In hopes that Hot Nick soon would be there.
The kiddies were nestled all snug in their beds,
While Alfas and Jaguars raced in their heads;
Mom in her goggles and I in beret,
Had tucked in the Allard, and then hit the hay.
When out on the road there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from my bed to see what was the matter.
Expecting to see a Mercedes roar by,
We raced to the window, my dear wife and I.
The moon on the chrome of her baby Lago,
Gave the brightness of noonday to objects below.
When what should my wondering eyes betray,
But eight tiny Minis, pulling a sleigh.
With a round hero driver so steady and quick,
I knew in a moment it must be Hot Nick!
More rapid than Grand Prix his little fleet came,
And he poured on the gas as he called them by name.
"Now XK, now DB, now TA and K3,
On LM, on TR, on GT and TC;
To the top of the apex, keep away from the wall,
Now dash away, dig out, and change cogs all!"
Like Ascari and Fangio fighting a duel,
They broadslid the driveway and turned on the fuel;
Up to the garage where they braked to a stop,
The sleigh full of goodies with Santa on top.
The sleigh was aluminum - A Ghia design;
In British Racing Green, it really looked fine.
The badge bar up front stood out clear and bold,
The collection of badges a sight to behold.
He was dressed up all in bright Reno Red,
From the tip of his toes to top of his head;
A bundle of speed parts he had on his back,
And he chuckled with glee as he opened his pack.
His eyes, how they sparkled, like a spinning Rudge wheel,
His beard was the silver of machine-tooled steel;
With a little round face and a chubby waist line
That shook when he laughed like that Bugatti of mine.
He started his task without saying a word,
The idling exhausts were all that was heard.
Wire wheels for Junior, to fit his TD,
Hood strap and windscreens for Allard and me.
Some paint for the Bug, marked "BU1 Speedwell Blue",
Castrol, a blower, and dual carbies, too;
The last thing he left was the best that could be,
A year's "British Car" for the family and me.
He jumped to the sleigh and gave his commands,
Then away they all flew like the start at Le Mans,
And I heard him exclaim as he quickened the pace,
Merry Christmas to all and to all a good race!
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From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:02:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey on front Cover of Classic Cars Mag
This month's "Classic Cars" magazine has Steve
Norton's Cape-Sport Healey on the front cover & a five
page article. To put it mildly the car looks like it
totally kicks major ass.
For those of you who are unfamiliar with Steve Norton,
he makes a ton of specialty & race/rally parts for
healeys - and frankly makes a ton of great uprated
stuff for the Healey that no one else does.
Anyway, no financial interest here - just happy that
Steve is getting some publicity for his great work.
Cheers -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:23:42 +0000
Subject: Re: BN1 oil pump info?
John
>
I have never found any official figures for the gear type pump that most
100s are fitted with. I say most because because in a few rare cases a
later eccentric rotor pump from a 2.2 or 2.5L engine might be fitted.
(If so the drive shaft has to be sorted out).
However I was told some while ago by a long serving engine rebuilder
that somewhere between 0.005" and 0.008" end float on the gears would be
about correct. I have since used this figure on a few occasions and it
seems to be fine.
A tip on the gear type pump. Most wear takes place where the bottom of
the gears dig into the bottom aluminium plate. Dirty oil must add to
this problem. The bottom plate can be skimmed flat. This might be a
machining job but if not too bad grinding paste on plate glass works
well. The clearance on the gears can be checked with a straight edge and
feeler gauges. If excessive the aluminium body of the pump can be either
machined or ground down fairly easily. If you are not sure that the
mating surfaces remain flat a little jointing compound may help but not
too much as excess can work loose and get into the oilways.
All the best
>Hello again. Does someone have the clearance specs for the oil pump gears for
>a BN1? I have 2 pumps, both look little worn. Thanks for any info here.
>Cheers,
>John Wright
>BN1
>BN6
>
--
John Harper
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 14:23:01 -0600
Subject: Re: The Night Before Christmas
Gary,
Great story! Although I would have thought the eight tiny minis would have
names like...
Austin, Morris, Cooper, eS, MiMi, Mini Me, etc... Instead of XK, now DB,
now TA and K3, On LM, on TR, on GT and TC.
Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good Healey,
Carlos Cruz
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 12:49 PM
Subject: The Night Before Christmas
>
> Got a version of this today, thought you'd enjoy it.
> (confess I made a few changes).
> Happy Holidays
> Gary
>
> 'Twas the night before Christmas, and all through the valley,
> Not a sports car was stirring, not even a Ferrari.
> The stockings were hung on the garage door with care,
> In hopes that Hot Nick soon would be there.
>
> The kiddies were nestled all snug in their beds,
> While Alfas and Jaguars raced in their heads;
> Mom in her goggles and I in beret,
> Had tucked in the Allard, and then hit the hay.
>
> When out on the road there arose such a clatter,
> I sprang from my bed to see what was the matter.
> Expecting to see a Mercedes roar by,
> We raced to the window, my dear wife and I.
>
> The moon on the chrome of her baby Lago,
> Gave the brightness of noonday to objects below.
> When what should my wondering eyes betray,
> But eight tiny Minis, pulling a sleigh.
>
> With a round hero driver so steady and quick,
> I knew in a moment it must be Hot Nick!
> More rapid than Grand Prix his little fleet came,
> And he poured on the gas as he called them by name.
>
> "Now XK, now DB, now TA and K3,
> On LM, on TR, on GT and TC;
> To the top of the apex, keep away from the wall,
> Now dash away, dig out, and change cogs all!"
>
> Like Ascari and Fangio fighting a duel,
> They broadslid the driveway and turned on the fuel;
> Up to the garage where they braked to a stop,
> The sleigh full of goodies with Santa on top.
>
> The sleigh was aluminum - A Ghia design;
> In British Racing Green, it really looked fine.
> The badge bar up front stood out clear and bold,
> The collection of badges a sight to behold.
>
> He was dressed up all in bright Reno Red,
> From the tip of his toes to top of his head;
> A bundle of speed parts he had on his back,
> And he chuckled with glee as he opened his pack.
>
> His eyes, how they sparkled, like a spinning Rudge wheel,
> His beard was the silver of machine-tooled steel;
> With a little round face and a chubby waist line
> That shook when he laughed like that Bugatti of mine.
>
> He started his task without saying a word,
> The idling exhausts were all that was heard.
> Wire wheels for Junior, to fit his TD,
> Hood strap and windscreens for Allard and me.
>
> Some paint for the Bug, marked "BU1 Speedwell Blue",
> Castrol, a blower, and dual carbies, too;
> The last thing he left was the best that could be,
> A year's "British Car" for the family and me.
>
> He jumped to the sleigh and gave his commands,
> Then away they all flew like the start at Le Mans,
> And I heard him exclaim as he quickened the pace,
> Merry Christmas to all and to all a good race!
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 21:45:46 +0100
Subject: Healey archives at team.net
Hi,
today I noticed on one of these mail footlines automatically added by
the system to omit double mails the link to Healey list archives. Am I
the only one who noticed this ? At:
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys you will have archives from
May 2000 up to now.
Is this a new service from MJB ? Did I miss something ?
Merry Christmas to all from Germany. (The first WHITE Christmas this
year for many years)
Best regards
Martin
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:03:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey archives at team.net
Mark must have been doing his homework, that just showed up today!
Thanks MJB.
----------------
At 12:45 PM 12/21/2001, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>today I noticed on one of these mail footlines automatically added by
>the system to omit double mails the link to Healey list archives. Am I
>the only one who noticed this ? At:
>http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys you will have archives from
>May 2000 up to now.
>Is this a new service from MJB ? Did I miss something ?
>
>Merry Christmas to all from Germany. (The first WHITE Christmas this
>year for many years)
>
>Best regards
>
>Martin
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 16:39:16 -0500
Subject: Archives
Thanks Mark for the archives. It works well and is badly needed. I'll be sure
to remember you via PayPal.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
PS: For those who don't know, much of the expense in running our lists is borne
by Mark out of pocket defrayed by contributions.
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 15:59:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey archives at team.net
Hi Bill
Seasons greetings lad hope the cool breezes off the Bay are not
keeping your BJ8 off the streets. Thanks very much for your
initiative and your suggestion and idea for a potential archive
source; and a big thanks to Mark for the follow up.
Kind regards an Happy Holidays to All
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Bill Katz wrote:
>
> Mark must have been doing his homework, that just showed up today!
>
> Thanks MJB.
>
> ----------------
> At 12:45 PM 12/21/2001, you wrote:
>
> >Hi,
> >
> >today I noticed on one of these mail footlines automatically added by
> >the system to omit double mails the link to Healey list archives. Am I
> >the only one who noticed this ? At:
> >http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys you will have archives from
> >May 2000 up to now.
> >Is this a new service from MJB ? Did I miss something ?
> >
> >Merry Christmas to all from Germany. (The first WHITE Christmas this
> >year for many years)
> >
> >Best regards
> >
> >Martin
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 17:02:11 -0500
Subject: Little Healey Content *Merry Christmas*
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all the list.. (hope this
wish does not offend anyone)
*** Required Healey content ***
Promised dyno results will be delayed , still waiting on nuts and bolts
for intake manifild. (Boy is parcel post ever slow !!!!!!! order placed on
29 Nov )
Michael Giroux
62BT7, 71TR6, 81Malibu(daily driver, standard trans)
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From "Capt.Don" <captdon at usa.net>
Date: 21 Dec 2001 17:20:25 EST
Subject: Front Suspension
Was there any differences in the size of the rubber bushings used on the front
suspension of A-H 3000? I got lower link bushing and they appear to be small
then the originals and I wanted to check before I take the front end apart.
Don Zielke
Nulco Marine
East Coast Deliveries - Power
Remember amateurs built the ark
Professionals built the Titanic.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 17:39:24 EST
Subject: British Car Week 2002 in Maryland
This coming year's "British Car Week" commences Saturday, May 25th, 2002--You
can view the official website at:
http//members.aol.com/Trmgafun/britishcarweek.html.
My wife Mary and I extend an invitation to all British Car owners of whatever
marque or vintage to drive (NOT TRAILER) down to our farm in Saint Leonard,
MD, (about one hour SE of the DC Beltway via route 4) on Sunday, May 26th,
2002. Feel free to bring along as many family members and/or pets you can
cram aboard and pack whatever you may care to eat or drink along with
something to sit or lie on--we'll provide a freshly-mowed 15 acre field, a
few portable toilets and water....
I've addressed this email to the webmasters or newsletter editors of all the
British Car Clubs that I could identify in the DC/VA/DEL with the hope that
this event can be written up in Club publications and announced at meetings
in the coming months. If I've reached the wrong party in any organizations
I'd appreciate being notified so that I can edit the mailing list. When time
gets closer I'll probably post details, driving instructions and a map on our
website. I've surely missed some appropriate recipients (for example, I
could not find a local contact for the Rolls/Bentley folks) so any additions
and suggestions will be appreciated. Feel free to pass this invitation along
to any other interested LBC folks.
I don't know whether we'll see 5 or 500, but we' just want to help our
British Car community to enjoy driving and sharing their autos with each
other in a nice setting--no need to wash or shine either yourselves or the
car!
Best Wishes to all for the Holidays--Michael Oritt
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 18:14:34 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 oil pump info?
In a message dated 12/21/2001 12:32:04 PM Mountain Standard Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<<
However I was told some while ago by a long serving engine rebuilder
that somewhere between 0.005" and 0.008" end float on the gears would be
about correct. I have since used this figure on a few occasions and it
seems to be fine. >>
I think this clearance range is a bit too high. The earlier posting,
referencing the 3000 gear pump tolerances that are published in the shop
manual, seems more correct.
roger
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 18:49:13 -0500
Subject: Brake shoes
Is there a readily available source for brake shoes for a BN6 such as Pep Boys,
etc. and, if so, does anyone have the part number?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 20:40:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Front Suspension
Don:
The front suspension bushes are the same for all model years.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 21:54:56 EST
Subject: Re: Hawaiian Christmas
Listers
Still a few days early but my wife a I want to wish you all the best at this
special time of the year. Mele Kalikimaka Me Ka Hauloi Maka Hiki Hou. I have
to take the Healeys out tomorrow to warm them up before the sub 80 degree F
temperatures begin.
Aloha
Perry
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From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 22:05:29 EST
Subject: Hawaiian Christmas
"I have to take the Healeys out tomorrow to warm them up before the sub 80
degree F temperatures begin. "
Aloha
Perry
Perry,
CRUEL... very cruel... !!!!
Merry Chrrrrisssssstmas,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 18:02:06 +1000
Subject: Re: Hawaiian Christmas
| "I have to take the Healeys out tomorrow to warm them up before the sub 80
| degree F temperatures begin. "
| Aloha
| Perry
Here in Queensland, Australia we are expecting 90F+ for Christmas day.
Makes for a better Christmas on the beach and cruising in the Healey though
!!
Merry Christmas to all from Downunder.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 11:34:31 EST
Subject: BJ8 in WV
I get unsolicited car offers through my web sites all the time and pass them
along. (Actually I will be keeping the 100-M and 100-S offers to myself if I
ever get one)
TRWV@aol.com writes : I have a > '67 mark lll phase 2 with 23,000 orig. mi.
> For Sale. Red with black interior. Asking 28,500. Car is located in West
> Virginia.
>
> thanks Jerry
No Knowledge etc etc etc contact the owner at TRWV@aol.com
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 20:47:43 -0800
Subject: BT7 rear quarter interior panels
Listers,
I have just recieved my new Heritage Trim interior panel kit and it is
first rate. I was looking a Gary and Rogers book (and others), trying
to determine the proper way to install the rear quarters. I can't
quite see the proper type of fasteners that hold the bump boxes
throught the panels and there are differences from book to book. Are
they bolts from the outside with acorn nuts or chrome screws from the
inside with hex nuts. Or should they not be seen at all from the
inside.
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett
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From "Dave Nelson" <danelson at socket.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:17:49 -0600
Subject: Brake Fluid Again
I have researched the archives ( they are great) but still have not answered
my own question.
I am replacing the clutch hydraulic hose on our '63-3000. Master and slaves
are OK.
Just what is Girling Brake Fluid? Does it have a USDOT number?
Are there any substitutes as I can't find any Girling Brake Fluid in south
Missouri.
What are methylated spirits? My manual suggests flushing the system with this
product.
I really don't know what is in the system now. I have had the car over 15
years and never had to add any brake fluid.
David
Willow Springs, MO
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:30:25 EST
Subject: Re: Brake shoes
Not that I know off that is why we have had them rebuilt with a high grade
material bonded on and available on a exchange basis. We have these available
for both the front and rear drums.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:15:40 -0500
Subject: Speedo angle drive
I have a used speedometer angle drive that turns well that I have
cleaned up by spraying solvent inside. It makes a little gear noise
but turns freely. I also bought a new old stock Smiths cable for the
speedo. I examined the cable and it is free of rust. I sprinkled
graphite on the cable. The assembly of the cable and angle drive
turns well. How should I lubricate the angle drive? A light oil or
synthetic grease?
Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN 7 bits
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:29:04 -0500
Subject: Blue engines in Healeys
Greetings and Happy Healeydays, Healeyphiles!
Recently, someone said the engine in his BJ8 was painted blue, like his
Healey Blue car. He said there was no indication the engine had ever been
removed, and he wondered if it might have come from the factory painted
blue. The car in question is VIN HBJ8L/30352, with engine number
29K/RU/H5130.
The BJ8 registry has the data on a car very close to that in VIN and engine
number: HBJ8L/30342, engine 29K/RU/H5123. As it happens, this car is also
Healey Blue. I sent e-mail to the owner of this car and asked if his engine
was painted the usual Healey Green, or if it was blue also. Here is his
answer:
"Seasons Greetings Steve,
This is really a curious situation because the engine in my car is painted
blue. I thought that someone had probably repainted the engine blue
somewhere in its past not being aware it should be painted green. I guess
the only person that could shed some light on this anomaly would be Anders
Ditlev Clausager of the Heritage Trust. I would be interested with any
further information that you or others find out about this issue.
I recently purchased a 1958 Austin Healey 106 and I am considering selling
my BJ8 (not enough garage space). Do you know if there is a 106 Registry and
if so who do I need to contact."
Interesting, huh? Either this is a strange coincidence, or we might have
learned something about the original production of the cars. Let me put in
another plug here for the registry. It isn't likely this kind of thing
would ever come to light without a central source of information on the
cars. The mystery bears some more investigation.
For Rudy Streng: I'll forward the information on the 100-6 to you.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:16:25 -0600
Subject: season's greetings from texas
it's another great healey driving day in the dallas area -- bright, sunny and
70 degrees.
best wishes to you and yours for the holidays !!
happy healeying,
jerry
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 14:34:02 -0500
Subject: RE: Blue engines in Healeys
Geez Steve,
Next you'll be telling us that they painted Healeys golden beige
metallic.
Have a Great Christmas.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Byers
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 1:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Blue engines in Healeys
Greetings and Happy Healeydays, Healeyphiles!
Recently, someone said the engine in his BJ8 was painted blue, like his
Healey Blue car. He said there was no indication the engine had ever
been
removed, and he wondered if it might have come from the factory painted
blue. The car in question is VIN HBJ8L/30352, with engine number
29K/RU/H5130.
The BJ8 registry has the data on a car very close to that in VIN and
engine
number: HBJ8L/30342, engine 29K/RU/H5123. As it happens, this car is
also
Healey Blue. I sent e-mail to the owner of this car and asked if his
engine
was painted the usual Healey Green, or if it was blue also. Here is his
answer:
"Seasons Greetings Steve,
This is really a curious situation because the engine in my car is
painted
blue. I thought that someone had probably repainted the engine blue
somewhere in its past not being aware it should be painted green. I
guess
the only person that could shed some light on this anomaly would be
Anders
Ditlev Clausager of the Heritage Trust. I would be interested with any
further information that you or others find out about this issue.
I recently purchased a 1958 Austin Healey 106 and I am considering
selling
my BJ8 (not enough garage space). Do you know if there is a 106 Registry
and
if so who do I need to contact."
Interesting, huh? Either this is a strange coincidence, or we might
have
learned something about the original production of the cars. Let me
put in
another plug here for the registry. It isn't likely this kind of thing
would ever come to light without a central source of information on the
cars. The mystery bears some more investigation.
For Rudy Streng: I'll forward the information on the 100-6 to you.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 09:54:10 +0000
Subject: Re: BN1 oil pump info?
Well one lives and learns by subscibing to this list.
On the big Healeys one normally has a gear type oil pump on the 100, a
rotary vane on the 100/6 & early 3000 and a gear type on later 3000s. It
is the last type that I had forgotten. Sorry about this.
However a couple of knowledgable pepople have said that the gears on the
later 3000 are identical to those on the 100 and therefore the end
clearances published for the later 3000 can be used for the 100.
I do not claim to have detailed knowledge about the later 3000 engines
but I had been led to believe over many years that there was no
commonality between these two gear type oil pumps. However on checking
the appropriate parts list I confirm that the gears 1K 105 & 1K 106 are
identical.
It therfore seems appropriate to use the published end float figure of
0.0005" to 0.002"
As I say one lives and learns
All the best
--
John Harper
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 14:28:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Blue engines in Healeys
only the ones with blue engines !!
Michael Salter wrote:
>
>
> Geez Steve,
>
> Next you'll be telling us that they painted Healeys golden beige
> metallic.
>
> Have a Great Christmas.
>
> Mike Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Steve Byers
> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 1:29 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Blue engines in Healeys
>
>
> Greetings and Happy Healeydays, Healeyphiles!
>
> Recently, someone said the engine in his BJ8 was painted blue, like his
> Healey Blue car. He said there was no indication the engine had ever
> been
> removed, and he wondered if it might have come from the factory painted
> blue. The car in question is VIN HBJ8L/30352, with engine number
> 29K/RU/H5130.
>
> The BJ8 registry has the data on a car very close to that in VIN and
> engine
> number: HBJ8L/30342, engine 29K/RU/H5123. As it happens, this car is
> also
> Healey Blue. I sent e-mail to the owner of this car and asked if his
> engine
> was painted the usual Healey Green, or if it was blue also. Here is his
> answer:
>
> "Seasons Greetings Steve,
> This is really a curious situation because the engine in my car is
> painted
> blue. I thought that someone had probably repainted the engine blue
> somewhere in its past not being aware it should be painted green. I
> guess
> the only person that could shed some light on this anomaly would be
> Anders
> Ditlev Clausager of the Heritage Trust. I would be interested with any
> further information that you or others find out about this issue.
>
> I recently purchased a 1958 Austin Healey 106 and I am considering
> selling
> my BJ8 (not enough garage space). Do you know if there is a 106 Registry
> and
> if so who do I need to contact."
>
> Interesting, huh? Either this is a strange coincidence, or we might
> have
> learned something about the original production of the cars. Let me
> put in
> another plug here for the registry. It isn't likely this kind of thing
> would ever come to light without a central source of information on the
> cars. The mystery bears some more investigation.
>
> For Rudy Streng: I'll forward the information on the 100-6 to you.
>
> Happy Healeydays!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> /
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:26:13 -0600
Subject: Brake Caliper rebuilds
Listers,
Does World Wide Auto in Wisconsin rebuild brake calipers?
Any experience with there product?
Thanks, Mark
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From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 16:36:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Again
British brake & clutch systems originally used natural rubber components
which are only compatible with a vegetable based brake fluid. American
systems OTOH use synthetic rubber components which are only compatible with
a mineral based one. The only vegetable based brake fluid commonly available
in the US AFAIK is CASTROL GT LMA. Use of improper fluids or mixing of
fluids can lead to complete failure of brake and clutch hydraulics. Been
there, done that, and it was an expensive education.
I haven't kept up, but I assume that current replacement parts are synthetic
so that any Dot approved fluids will work. If not, then only use CASTROL GT
LMA.
Basically methylated spirits is ethanol (ethyl alcohol, grain alcohol) with
additives including dye. It dissolves essential oils, castor oil, shellac,
ball point ink, iodine, grass stains and some medicines. It is also useful
for cleaning mirrors and glass as well as paint brushes.
IOW, you should be able to get it at your local building supply/hardware,
etc., paint dept.. I buy mine at Home Depot or Lowes.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Just what is Girling Brake Fluid? Does it have a USDOT number?
> Are there any substitutes as I can't find any Girling Brake Fluid in
south
> Missouri.
>
> What are methylated spirits? My manual suggests flushing the system with
this
> product.
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:14:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Again
Hi Greg
If memory serves "methylated" compounds have only one carbon
group rather than the two carbons found in ethanol -- but with
all the changes over the years I could be wrong <wink>!
Kind regards an Haply Holidays
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
P.S. Jerry (Wall) it's only a balmy -20C here an I'm sure the
anti freeze mix in my BJ8 is in some form of primitive jelly
!!!!!
Greg wrote:
>
> British brake & clutch systems originally used natural rubber components
> which are only compatible with a vegetable based brake fluid. American
> systems OTOH use synthetic rubber components which are only compatible with
> a mineral based one. The only vegetable based brake fluid commonly available
> in the US AFAIK is CASTROL GT LMA. Use of improper fluids or mixing of
> fluids can lead to complete failure of brake and clutch hydraulics. Been
> there, done that, and it was an expensive education.
>
> I haven't kept up, but I assume that current replacement parts are synthetic
> so that any Dot approved fluids will work. If not, then only use CASTROL GT
> LMA.
>
> Basically methylated spirits is ethanol (ethyl alcohol, grain alcohol) with
> additives including dye. It dissolves essential oils, castor oil, shellac,
> ball point ink, iodine, grass stains and some medicines. It is also useful
> for cleaning mirrors and glass as well as paint brushes.
>
> IOW, you should be able to get it at your local building supply/hardware,
> etc., paint dept.. I buy mine at Home Depot or Lowes.
>
> GM
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > Just what is Girling Brake Fluid? Does it have a USDOT number?
> > Are there any substitutes as I can't find any Girling Brake Fluid in
> south
> > Missouri.
> >
> > What are methylated spirits? My manual suggests flushing the system with
> this
> > product.
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From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 19:54:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Again
Ed,
Here's the composition of a typical industrial methylated spirits:
Ethyl Alcohol (AKA ethanol): 95.0% v/v
Benzine: 1.5% v/v
Butyl Alcohol: 3.5% v/v
And to think that kids party-hearty on this stuff! Oh well, guess I can't
point any fingers as I spent too much of my youth in an unventilated
basement building all sorts of models using the old highly toxic airplane
dopes, paints, glues; then moved up to spraying cars, bikes in equally (or
worse) conditions using even more toxic chemicals.
Happy Holidays from a somewhat warmer Hotlanta. :^)
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> Hi Greg
>
> If memory serves "methylated" compounds have only one carbon
> group rather than the two carbons found in ethanol -- but with
> all the changes over the years I could be wrong <wink>!
>
> Kind regards an Haply Holidays
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:05:18 -0800
Subject: Tires
Listers:
Since its been more than 20 minutes since the last tire discussion.............
I am currently running Rifkin 185-70 R 15 89H tires on 72 spoke chrome wire
wheels on my 1965 phase II BJ8.
I am going to put new tires on the car while it is in the paint shop. Striving
for a cross between the best all around and a concours acceptable tire I think I
am going to install a 175 - 15 tire. It is the closest to the original diameter
and slightly more meaty than the 165 -15. Under very hard cornering the 185s
will rub.
The concours registry suggests Dunlop SP 41 but the previous chatter seemed to
be about SP 40s. What is the difference?
They also suggest the Pirelli Centurato Radial. Are these still available?
Will I be happy with either of those two tires? I consider myself a mildly
aggressive driver (what ever that is) and prefer to cruise the California
highways at speeds over 75 MPH.
Your thoughts?
thanks
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 17:07:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: AHCUSA Photo Contest Winner
Hi Team,
The winner of the 2nd Annual Austin-Healey Club USA Photo Contest is on the
cover of the December issue of Austin-Healey Magazine. That issue is now in
the mail, but if you haven't received yours yet, here's a preview:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 20:31:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Again
Hi Greg
What you have described below is referred to here as de-natured
alcohol; this is another of the minor differences in terms which
I find fun to learn about.
Happy Holidays
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Greg wrote:
>
> Ed,
>
> Here's the composition of a typical industrial methylated spirits:
>
> Ethyl Alcohol (AKA ethanol): 95.0% v/v
> Benzine: 1.5% v/v
> Butyl Alcohol: 3.5% v/v
>
> And to think that kids party-hearty on this stuff! Oh well, guess I can't
> point any fingers as I spent too much of my youth in an unventilated
> basement building all sorts of models using the old highly toxic airplane
> dopes, paints, glues; then moved up to spraying cars, bikes in equally (or
> worse) conditions using even more toxic chemicals.
>
> Happy Holidays from a somewhat warmer Hotlanta. :^)
>
> GM
>
> ----- Original Message -----
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 19:36:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Again
Oops! I think I goofed up. I have seen threads on brake fluid before and
have tried to pay attention, but like when listening to people debate the
relative merits of different brands of gasoline or motor oil, my eyes just
glazed over. After reading Greg's posting on why it is important, I am now
rather alarmed! I have a long history of learning things the hard way, but
this time I would prefer to learn from the experiences of others. Here is
my situation:
I bought my car about a year ago. It had been sitting in a garage for at
least 25 years and after getting the thing running I turned my attention to
the hydraulics. I replaced the brake hoses, wheel cylinders, and slave
cylinder with Moss parts. The masters were OK. I then flushed the system
and filled it with DOT 3 fluid. The car has been driven very little as I am
restoring it. The brakes work fine. Have I done irreparable damage to the
masters? What about the new parts? I am not anxious to replace a bunch of
parts again but I would rather spend a few bucks than risk an accident. How
should I proceed?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
John (Older but not much wiser)
'58 BN4
>"Greg" <wingracer@email.msn.com> writes:
>
>
>British brake & clutch systems originally used natural rubber components
>which are only compatible with a vegetable based brake fluid. American
>systems OTOH use synthetic rubber components which are only compatible with
>a mineral based one. The only vegetable based brake fluid commonly
>available
>in the US AFAIK is CASTROL GT LMA. Use of improper fluids or mixing of
>fluids can lead to complete failure of brake and clutch hydraulics. Been
>there, done that, and it was an expensive education.
>
>I haven't kept up, but I assume that current replacement parts are
>synthetic
>so that any Dot approved fluids will work. If not, then only use CASTROL GT
>LMA.
_________________________________________________________________
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 23:56:35 EST
Subject: Re: Tires
Ron,
I recently put on new Dunlop SP40 165R-15 tires. Dunlop does not make the
175R-15 in the SP40. The only places I could find 175R-15 is British Wire
Wheels and Hendrix and Coker. They are quite expensive.
Vroooomm vrooomm,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:34:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Tires
John:
The Dunlop SP41 is called a Sport Radial.
I don't think it is the same. I believe the SP 40 is the same as the VW tire.
I would probably stay with 185s before I went to 165's.
Ron
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
> Ron,
> I recently put on new Dunlop SP40 165R-15 tires. Dunlop does not make the
> 175R-15 in the SP40. The only places I could find 175R-15 is British Wire
> Wheels and Hendrix and Coker. They are quite expensive.
> Vroooomm vrooomm,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 05:45:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires
Ron,
I may caution you that 185x15 tires may be too tall. I believe their aspect
ratio is something like 80. The guys @ BWW told me that one day. You want a
tire height as close to 26" as possible or not much less. I guess that extra
little 1/2 inch +/- in ride height is exhaust system friendly. Here is a
nifty web page I found that lets you calculate all the tire dimensions till
you're slap happy! http://www.discounttire.com/tireMath.html I found this
site to be very helpful, especially when I was considering 000/70Rx15 and
000/65Rx15 sizes.
Gary R. Cox
67' BJ8 (still in the paint shop)
Bradenton, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: <JSoderling@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: Tires
>
> John:
> The Dunlop SP41 is called a Sport Radial.
> I don't think it is the same. I believe the SP 40 is the same as the VW
tire.
> I would probably stay with 185s before I went to 165's.
> Ron
>
> JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Ron,
> > I recently put on new Dunlop SP40 165R-15 tires. Dunlop does not make
the
> > 175R-15 in the SP40. The only places I could find 175R-15 is British
Wire
> > Wheels and Hendrix and Coker. They are quite expensive.
> > Vroooomm vrooomm,
> > John
> > 100-Six Erika the Red
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 07:39:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Tires
ron,
since i put my bn6 back on the road in '92, iv'e run the michelin 175x15 for
the following reasons:
1. aesthetically, they fill the wheel well. the 165x15 does not.
2. as you mentioned, they are as close as you can get to the original 590x15
diameter.
3. i've never had a flat, however, i did have one blowout.
4. if dunlop made a 175x15, i'm enough of a purist ( even with mini-lites )
i'd go dunlop.
the last time i bought a few, they were $80-85 each.
happy healeying,
jerry
Ron Rader wrote:
>
>
> Listers:
> Since its been more than 20 minutes since the last tire
>discussion.............
>
> I am currently running Rifkin 185-70 R 15 89H tires on 72 spoke chrome wire
> wheels on my 1965 phase II BJ8.
>
> I am going to put new tires on the car while it is in the paint shop. Striving
> for a cross between the best all around and a concours acceptable tire I
>think I
> am going to install a 175 - 15 tire. It is the closest to the original
>diameter
> and slightly more meaty than the 165 -15. Under very hard cornering the 185s
> will rub.
> The concours registry suggests Dunlop SP 41 but the previous chatter seemed to
> be about SP 40s. What is the difference?
> They also suggest the Pirelli Centurato Radial. Are these still available?
>
> Will I be happy with either of those two tires? I consider myself a mildly
> aggressive driver (what ever that is) and prefer to cruise the California
> highways at speeds over 75 MPH.
> Your thoughts?
> thanks
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
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From Ed Townley <townley at zianet.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:41:08 -0700
Subject: Blue Engines in Healeys
Hey, Steve: my 64 BJ8 (HBJ8L/27445-Eng # 29K/RU/H2858) also has a blue
engine paint. I always assumed it had been repainted, since the car was a
German export, and I bought it in 74, when it was ten years old. But-maybe
not, huh? Interesting.
Oh, and yes, you already have a copy of my heritage certificate for the
registry. Happy holidays
Ed in So NM
64BJ8
59AN5
Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 13:29:04 -0500
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Subject: Blue engines in Healeys
Greetings and Happy Healeydays, Healeyphiles!
Recently, someone said the engine in his BJ8 was painted blue, like his
Healey Blue car. He said there was no indication the engine had ever been
removed, and he wondered if it might have come from the factory painted
blue. The car in question is VIN HBJ8L/30352, with engine number
29K/RU/H5130.
The BJ8 registry has the data on a car very close to that in VIN and engine
number: HBJ8L/30342, engine 29K/RU/H5123. As it happens, this car is
also
Healey Blue. I sent e-mail to the owner of this car and asked if his
engine
was painted the usual Healey Green, or if it was blue also. Here is his
answer:
"Seasons Greetings Steve,
This is really a curious situation because the engine in my car is painted
blue. I thought that someone had probably repainted the engine blue
somewhere in its past not being aware it should be painted green. I guess
the only person that could shed some light on this anomaly would be Anders
Ditlev Clausager of the Heritage Trust. I would be interested with any
further information that you or others find out about this issue.
I recently purchased a 1958 Austin Healey 106 and I am considering selling
my BJ8 (not enough garage space). Do you know if there is a 106 Registry
and
if so who do I need to contact."
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Barrie Robinson <barrier at bconnex.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 10:39:58 -0500
Subject: O-rings for dash gauges
If you are restoring your dash then please read on..............
I sourced o-rings for the gauges on pre-1977 MGBs. So I now supply BOTH
the one that goes between gauge and dash, AND the one that goes between
glass and chrome bezel. The latter is not available from Moss or Vic
Brit. I have been asked to provide for other cars and thus I have decided
to go whole hog on the project. So I am looking for anyone who can help.
I am appealing to the clubs who can help me lay my hands on gauges used in
the various vehicles. If they can find some dud gauges, that are about to
be trashed, and send them to me I could use them to get made the right size
of o-ring. This is a bit tricky as the wrong size can cause
problems. If anyone has info on cross-use of gauges I would appreciate
the data.
I will return gauges if required complete with a set of o-rings free of
charge for the first person. A set is usually $10 (two small, two large
for MGB).
I am in Barrie, (yes! the named the city after me) which is about an hour
north of Toronto.
Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson - barrier@bconnex.net
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 10:54:30 -0500
Subject: Re:Alstate Regulator
I have a NOS Allstate voltage regulator #1460. Does anyone know its
vehicle application? It came with a box of Healey parts. Thanks.
Happy Healeying & a Great Holiday Season,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 16:50:47 EST
Subject: Re: Tires
In a message dated 12/22/01 5:00:30 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< The concours registry suggests Dunlop SP 41 but the previous chatter
seemed to
be about SP 40s. What is the difference?
They also suggest the Pirelli Centurato Radial. Are these still available? >>
Ron -- I hadn't seen the DUnlop SP41 reference before now and can't tell you
where that came from (perhaps one of the new revisions or an error), and
Pirelli stopped making the Cinturatos at least ten years ago.
The tire I've been recommending is the Dunlop SP20 which I have in 165/15,
but I've heard might be available in 175/15. Some people have been buying
Michelin XZs in 175/15. I know from Dunlop that the SP20 is a recent design
and formulation so it takes advantage of modern technology.I understand that
the Michelin tire is being produced using earlier technology.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:15:37 -0600
Subject: Need a Healey video
Listers,
Does anyone have a copy of the Big Healey Project video that they
would want to part with. Prefer new, but used in good condition would work.
Send cost if you can help. (off list)
Thanks, Mark
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:27:21 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 rear quarter interior panels
In a message dated 12/22/01 8:58:35 AM, fawcett1@mediaone.net writes:
<< I was looking a Gary and Rogers book (and others), trying
to determine the proper way to install the rear quarters. I can't
quite see the proper type of fasteners that hold the bump boxes
throught the panels and there are differences from book to book. Are
they bolts from the outside with acorn nuts or chrome screws from the
inside with hex nuts. Or should they not be seen at all from the
inside. >>
Biggest question is whether your car is a "Mark I" or Mark II. Looking at the
current concours standards and our book (with two small corrections), there
is no disagreement.
The vertical fasteners on both "Mark Is" and Mark IIs were hex-head screws
extending from the interior into the fender well, with flat washers under the
screw heads on the interior and flat-washers, split washers, and nuts on the
ends and visible in the fender wells. The screw heads and washers are covered
on the interior by the carpet on the tonneau shelf.
The horizontal fasteners are different for the "Mark Is" and Mark IIs. The
MkIs used the same fasteners as for the vertical fasteners, and the heads and
washers were visible on the interior. On the Mark IIs, a captive nut was
welded on the interior hidden under the quarter panel trim and a hexhead bolt
went from the fender well into the captive nut.
Hope that is clear,.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:36:36 EST
Subject: re: Rear Interior and Bump Boxes -- Correction
SORRY -- I mistyped when going from my listing to the email (problem of
having to click back and forth, with the two covering each other.
In any case -- the proper fasteners for the bump boxes on the 3000 roadsters
(based on inspection of numerous original cars) are
large Phillips head screws (these have been observed to be either zinc or
chrome plated -- either is acceptable).
(the parts lists show hex-head screws but no one has ever seen these in use.)
The only difference is that on the 3000 Mark IIs, the horizontal fastener was
changed to a hexhead bolt from the fender well, fastening to a captive nut
welded to the inside (interior side) surface of the inner fender well.
In any case, the current Concours Guidelines are correct as is the
restoration book with corrections.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:51:26 EST
Subject: Current Revisions to Big Healey Concours Guidelines
The Concours Registry is pleased to announce that a new version of the
Restoration and Inspection Guidelines for Big Healeys is now available. These
can be ordered by sending a check for $25 made out to the Concours Registry
to George Marinos, 105 Thornbury Ave, Glen Rock, New Jersey 07452.
Please note that the guidelines are no longer available from Walt Blanck, who
has stepped down from this position after over ten years of service, for
which the Committee is very grateful.
Everyone who is having a Big Healey inspected by the Concours Registry at
Open Roads 2002 in Lake Tahoe should obtain a copy of the new Guidelines,
which contain the Registry scoring standards as well as originality
information that will be used in the inspections.
The Guidelines also will be a useful reference for anyone restoring a Healey,
though the committee recommends that they be used in conjunction with other
information sources including the Factory Service Parts Lists, owner's
manual, workshop manual and the secondary-source publications available on
the big Healeys.
While there are only a few substantive changes from the previous version of
the Guidelines, a number of contradictions have been corrected, and the
Guidelines have been significantly rewritten and expanded. This work was done
by Alan Alfano, Rich Chrysler, and Sean Johnson and other members of the
Committee to make the guidelines easier to use. The new version was
extensively reviewed by Roger Moment before release.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, AH Concours Registry
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From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 18:22:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Again
Hey Ed,
So do we, and meant to say so in my first post, but see now for some reason
I didn't. Anyway, methylated spirits is the way it's listed in whatever
manual David's using and is the category name it's regulated under.
Just to cap this off though is an email informing me, "That may be the
American formula for methylated spirits, but in the UK its straight methyl
alcohol." Hmm, and I thought 'methylated spirits' was British nomenclature,
at least it sounds like it to me anyway. ;^)
Just for the record, the formula I posted is a mean, as the ethanol content
varies a couple of percent either way depending on the IMS grade of the
Methylated Spirits Regulations according to BP. Doing a quick search, this
appears to be a world standard, which makes sense to me.
And silly me thought a simple answer to a simple question was sufficient.
GM
----- Original Message -----
>
> Hi Greg
>
> What you have described below is referred to here as de-natured
> alcohol; this is another of the minor differences in terms which
> I find fun to learn about.
>
> Happy Holidays
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon
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From JJSandSMS at cs.com
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:17:50 EST
Subject: 3000 Restoration Book
I missed saving a post that referenced a new revision of Healey restoration
manual or guide. Would someone be so kind to give information (again) as to
the book and where it can be purchased.
Thanks
Jeff Stepek
64 BJ8
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:56:52 -0500
Subject: Princeton encounter
Several weeks ago, someone left a post on an Encounter to be held in Princeton,
NJ in 2002. Can you give me the dates? I inadvertantly deleted the posting and
I want to attend it.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 20:30:53 -0600
Subject: Re: 3000 Restoration Book
the ah restoration guide is available through the ahc, usa for $24 plus $5
shipping. email me credit card info or check payable to ahcusa to:
jerry wall
7217 birchmont dr.
rowlett, tx 75089
JJSandSMS@cs.com wrote:
>
>
> I missed saving a post that referenced a new revision of Healey restoration
> manual or guide. Would someone be so kind to give information (again) as to
> the book and where it can be purchased.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeff Stepek
> 64 BJ8
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:07:22 -0800
Subject: Healey red and green
Listers
I haven't posted for a while but that doesn't mean I'm not keeping an eye
on you guys. This list is full of old friends and lots of wonderful chatter.
I love it dearly. I want to wish all of you the very happiest holiday of your
choice and a New Year full of Healeys purring and dripping their way down
endless miles of twisty back roads. May your fuel tank always be full of high
test and your tires never flat.
A special Holiday thank you to Mark B. our Major Domo who should be
promoted to General Domo for this great list.
Ho Ho Ho! Healey on...
Ray Juncal
beep beep
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:29:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Tires
Ron,
I'll second Gary on the Dunlop SP20's. I bought a set a few months back
to replace the Sears 165/15's with which the PO had equipped my car.
You get slightly more clearance under the car and a more "vintage" look
and feel. I'm quite pleased with them.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 4:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Tires
In a message dated 12/22/01 5:00:30 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< The concours registry suggests Dunlop SP 41 but the previous chatter
seemed to
be about SP 40s. What is the difference?
They also suggest the Pirelli Centurato Radial. Are these still available?
>>
Ron -- I hadn't seen the DUnlop SP41 reference before now and can't tell you
where that came from (perhaps one of the new revisions or an error), and
Pirelli stopped making the Cinturatos at least ten years ago.
The tire I've been recommending is the Dunlop SP20 which I have in 165/15,
but I've heard might be available in 175/15. Some people have been buying
Michelin XZs in 175/15. I know from Dunlop that the SP20 is a recent design
and formulation so it takes advantage of modern technology.I understand that
the Michelin tire is being produced using earlier technology.
Cheers
Gary
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 22:22:54 -0800
Subject: Tires
Gary:
I think it narrows down to these 2 tires as my likely candidates.
After reading the concours rules I have 2 questions:
1. re concours tires and wheels: the rules say 4 points off for chrome wheels
and 6 points off for 72 spoke. Is this 10 points off or 40 points off? (4
wheels).
Then if the spare was a correct 60 spoke un chromed wheel with a dunlop 5.90
bias ply tire would you get points off because the spare did not match the 4
tires on the ground?
2. Do you know the profiles of these two tire:
5.90 x 15 tire (height and width) Dunlop RS5 ("H" rated bias
ply) $159
175x15 tire (height and width) Michelin
ZX $90
Thanks
Ron
1965 BJ8
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 08:12:39 EST
Subject: Re: Tires
Ron,
A few years ago Listmember Adnan Merchant did a great job on research of tire
sizes for the Healey. His article, as well as comments from other list
members, can be found on my web site at jamesfwerner.com under "tire
information." It's a good place to start when you are considering tire
choices.
On a Christmas note, a few years ago I collected Healey related Christmas
images from list members and posted them on several pages. You can find them
at jamesfwerner.com under "Christmas Images." It's a good place to get your
Healey fix at the Holidays.
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Have a Happy Healey Holiday Season
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:24:26 EST
Subject: Looking for Bill Emerson
I am looking for the email address of Bill Emerson, living in Arizona. If
anyone has it, would you please send it to me off list.
Thanks
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 10:32:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires
Are they?
"Listers:
Since its been more than 20 minutes since the last tire
discussion.............
.....They also suggest the Pirelli Centurato Radial. Are these still
available?"
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 08:31:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Windshield Scratch
The windshield of my car was scratched in an arc when a PO evidently ran the
wipers sans a blade.
I've been told that this type of scratch can be polished out of the glass, but
I haven't been able
to find anyone who can tell what compound is needed. An equally important and
related question is,
where can (Blank) compound be purchased? Can I take out a scratch like this
with a buffing pad on
the end of a hand drill? (If "yes", what drill speed is needed?) Thanks in
advance and Merry
Christmas to all. - Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
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From "Greg" <wingracer at email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:58:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires
Search engines are a beautiful thing:
http://www.us.pirelli.com/en_US//tyres/catalog/tyre_product.jhtml?selected=s
ize&catid=US_ASCT&productid=2664
Though it's no longer listed as a sport tire, it probably performs better
overall than the original due to material/construction improvements.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> .....They also suggest the Pirelli Centurato Radial. Are these still
> available?"
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:02:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
John Schaible wrote:
> The windshield of my car was scratched in an arc when a PO evidently ran the
>wipers sans a blade.
> I've been told that this type of scratch can be polished out of the glass,
>but I haven't been able
> to find anyone who can tell what compound is needed. An equally important and
>related question is,
> where can (Blank) compound be purchased? Can I take out a scratch like this
>with a buffing pad on
> the end of a hand drill? (If "yes", what drill speed is needed?)
Well, Eastwood, among others, sells this type of kit. You need to be aware
that in order to buff a
scratch out, a lot of surrounding material must be buffed away as well. You
will likely end up w/ a
distorted view of the world from inside a car that has had scratches buffed
out. Any scratch that
will catch a fingernail will be a problem but the really minor ones can be
done--not perfectly but
they can be done.
This is very much like buffing scratches out of paint. You need to have a lot
of material to work
with in order to get it done. If you buff too much, you end up striking metal.
With glass you end up
w/ the optics destroyed in some area of the windshield. Unfortunately, an area
scratched by wipers is
the area through which you will be looking.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 12:40:46 EST
Subject: Warning
All,
I received a phone cal from Ed Kaler last night. He was the recepient of a
serious Virus last night. The new virus could have sent mail to those in his
address book. If any messages are received from ED do not open them.
Delete immediately.
Other than that, He wishes a Happy Holidays to All !
Bob (just the messanger)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:10:46 EST
Subject: Re: 3000 Restoration Book
In a message dated 12/23/01 6:33:43 PM, jwbn6@iopener.net writes:
<<
the ah restoration guide is available through the ahc, usa for $24 plus $5
shipping. email me credit card info or check payable to ahcusa to:
jerry wall
7217 birchmont dr.
rowlett, tx 75089
JJSandSMS@cs.com wrote: >>
Just so no one gets confused. The notice I posted yesterday is regarding the
availability of the Concours Registry "Originality Guide for Restorations and
Registry Inspections" developed and published by the Concours Registry
Committee. It's available from George Marinos.
The item referred to the JWBN6 emal, as available from Jerry Wall, is the
book "Authentic Restoration Guide to Austin-Healey 100/100-Six/3000" by
Anderson and Moment, published by Motorbooks International.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 12:28:56 -0600
Subject: Windshield Scratch
On a related note, does anyone have a good method and product for clearing
up the plastic panel in the back of a softop? Mine is rather hazy and
"yellowed". Aside from getting a new top, (Which is what I REALLY want for
Christmas) what can be done?
Another note:
I'm still looking for the latches from windshield post to top frame for a
BN7 that are not exorbitant in price. Does anyone have a set of "used" ones
out there that they would be willing to part with for a "reasonable" price?
Thanks
Don
BN7
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From DRKTYME at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:26:48 EST
Subject: Dunlop SP 4's
I have Dunlop SP 4's on my 64 BJ8, all 5 in very good cosmetic condition. I
gather that these are discontinued or replaced by SP20's ? Are these tires
reliable? I have no idea how long they have been on the car and wonder if
they present any danger.
Thanks!
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:27:00 EST
Subject: Re: Tires
In a message dated 12/23/01 9:15:04 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
<< 1. re concours tires and wheels: the rules say 4 points off for chrome
wheels
and
6 points off for 72 spoke. Is this 10 points off or 40 points off? (4 wheels).
Then if the spare was a correct 60 spoke un chromed wheel with a dunlop 5.90
bias ply tire would you get points off because the spare did not match the 4
tires on the ground? >>
The point values have been redone this year on some items, including wheels.
The decision of the Concours Committee after discussion was that chrome 72
spoke wheels were not acceptable. If mounted, they will receive a full
ten-point deduction (total for the car) for originality -- which is the
maximum possible deduction for wheels.
Tires have a possible ten-point deduction for originality, as well. If
mounted with any radial tire of 165/15 or 175/15 size, they take a four point
deduction (total).
If mounted with a radial tire in a larger size, they get a full ten-point
deduction
The only tires which receive no deduction are the reproduction Dunlop RS5
bias-plies.
Bottom line, what the committee is saying is that cars that are to be
inspected for the Concours Registry should have the proper wheels for their
car but can be mounted with a usable radial with only a small deduction. Any
deviations from this norm take a full originality deduction.
The spare tire is treated just like the other wheels and receives the same
deduction if it is non-original. On the other hand, if it is original but
does not match the fitted tires, then it takes a safety deduction.
(For the purists, there is an exception for those very few show and demo cars
that can be proved to have been fitted with chrome wheels for display
purposes, and those cars that can be proved to have been fitted with chrome
wheels when bought off the showroom floor or from Donald Healey Motor Works).
Hope that helps -- communicate with me directly if you'd like to discuss this
further.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, Concours Registry
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:45:04 EST
Subject: Re: Tires
In a message dated 12/24/01 7:33:07 AM, dwflagg@juno.com writes:
<<
Are they? >>
in a word, no.
Pirelli doesn't even make a tire that will fit the Healey, anymore.
Too bad; can't you imagine a Pirelli P-Zero Rosso for the Healey?
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:49:20 EST
Subject: Re: Tires
In a message dated 12/24/01 9:00:01 AM, wingracer@email.msn.com writes:
<<
http://www.us.pirelli.com/en_US//tyres/catalog/tyre_product.jhtml?selected=s
ize&catid=US_ASCT&productid=2664 >>
Now that's what some of us need -- a snow traction tire for the Healey.
I guess a 186/65-15 would fit though the loss of bottom clearance might
negate the snow grip characteristics. :-)
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:53:57 EST
Subject: Re: Princeton encounter
In a message dated 12/23/01 4:57:31 PM, healey6@optonline.net writes:
<<
Several weeks ago, someone left a post on an Encounter to be held in
Princeton, NJ in 2002. Can you give me the dates? I inadvertantly deleted the
posting and I want to attend it.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ >>
Checked my magazine calendar at BritishCar.com -- we show "New Jersey -
August 14-18 Austin-Healey Encounter, Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club,
info: www.austin-healey-stc.org"
Cheers
Gary
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 13:04:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
Don, I have used Novus Plastic polish for years. It works well but requires
a lot of rubbing. How well it will work on your window will depend on how
deep the damage is. It is listed in the Moss catalog in "Car Care and
Additives" section page 43. I found it at a local electronics supply store.
I have also seen it at a local plexiglass and plastic manufacturer. Good
Luck
Steve Galyean
55 BN1
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
> On a related note, does anyone have a good method and product for clearing
> up the plastic panel in the back of a softop? Mine is rather hazy and
> "yellowed". Aside from getting a new top, (Which is what I REALLY want
for
> Christmas) what can be done?
>
> Another note:
>
> I'm still looking for the latches from windshield post to top frame for a
> BN7 that are not exorbitant in price. Does anyone have a set of "used"
ones
> out there that they would be willing to part with for a "reasonable"
price?
>
> Thanks
> Don
> BN7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 14:09:41 EST
Subject: Re: Dunlop SP 4's- Too old for safety?
In a message dated 12/24/01 10:28:42 AM, DRKTYME@aol.com writes:
<<
I have Dunlop SP 4's on my 64 BJ8, all 5 in very good cosmetic condition. I
gather that these are discontinued or replaced by SP20's ? Are these tires
reliable? I have no idea how long they have been on the car and wonder if
they present any danger.
Thanks! >>
As I remember, the SP4s were radials manufactured by Dunlop more than ten
years ago, and they were replaced by the SP20s. General consensus of tire
experts is that radials don't age well, and any radial over five years old
should be viewed with suspicion and monitored carefully. Older radials tend
to split between the belts and the sidewalls. Unfortunately it usually
happens on the inside, under the car, not on the outside where it would be
visible.
If it were me, I would seriously consider replacing them soon (new Dunlop
SP20s only cost about $50 apiece), and would absolutely check them all
carefully on both sides for any signs of wear before doing any driving. Also,
if you do decide to drive on them, be VERY sensitive to any feeling of tire
being out-of-round. If you sense that, stop IMMEDIATELY and check the tires.
(I speak from serious personal experience here).
Cheers
Gary
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:37:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
I use the Novus products with good results, but there are a few different
"grades", just like with rubbing compound. You might need to start with the
stronger stuff depending on how bad your window is. Unfortunately, they
don't do much for yellowing.
---------------
At 11:04 AM 12/24/2001, you wrote:
>Don, I have used Novus Plastic polish for years. It works well but requires
>a lot of rubbing. How well it will work on your window will depend on how
>deep the damage is. It is listed in the Moss catalog in "Car Care and
>Additives" section page 43. I found it at a local electronics supply store.
>I have also seen it at a local plexiglass and plastic manufacturer. Good
>Luck
>
>Steve Galyean
>55 BN1
>
>From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > On a related note, does anyone have a good method and product for clearing
> > up the plastic panel in the back of a softop? Mine is rather hazy and
> > "yellowed". Aside from getting a new top, (Which is what I REALLY want
>for
> > Christmas) what can be done?
> >
> > Another note:
> >
> > I'm still looking for the latches from windshield post to top frame for a
> > BN7 that are not exorbitant in price. Does anyone have a set of "used"
>ones
> > out there that they would be willing to part with for a "reasonable"
>price?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Don
> > BN7
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:39:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Dunlop SP 4's- Too old for safety?
At 2:09 PM -0500 12/24/01, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>
>If it were me, I would seriously consider replacing them soon (new Dunlop
>SP20s only cost about $50 apiece), and would absolutely check them all
>carefully on both sides for any signs of wear before doing any driving. Also,
>if you do decide to drive on them, be VERY sensitive to any feeling of tire
>being out-of-round. If you sense that, stop IMMEDIATELY and check the tires.
>(I speak from serious personal experience here).
>Cheers
>Gary
Whilst we are on this topic can anyone recommend a good place to get
the tires fitted and balanced well in the Silicon Valley area? Gary
do you know anyone around Los Altos who is good?
Last time I was lucky to find someone in LA (when I lived there) who
knew how to balance the wheels whilst on the car and it made a huge
difference. He jacked an end up and used a motor driven roller to
engage the wheel and placed his hand on the body of the car above the
wheel he was balancing. It looked like a true art.
Any assistance is appreciated .. and Happy Christmas to all
(especially all my compatriots in Oz where it is already Chrissy Day)
Rohan
(Longbridge BN4)
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 11:45:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Merry Christmas
Happy Holidays,
Thanks for all the help you have given me this past
year. Wishing you a happy and prosperous 2002.
Jorge
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 14:58:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
Steve,
Isn't there a #1 and #2 Novus. One of them is more gritty which is the
one that I would start with. Personally I have found that after the yellow
film starts to build up, the window really needs to be cut out and a new
one stitched in. Any auto upholstery shop should be able to do this for you.
Unfortunately many P.Os just wiped off the rear windows like they were
a piece of glass and with what ever they could get there hands on. The
proper way is to lightly wipe with sponge and soapy suds for lubrication,
hose off and PAT dry(don't wipe) with a soft towel. Your windows will stay
clear for many years to come. You shouldn't have to use anything out of a
spray can or bottle except a mild detergent and water.
Now that all this is said and done, Don mentioned a plastic panel he
wanted to clean.
I hope by this he meant the back window panel. If not disregard my soapy
water story.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Galyean <sgalyean@kscable.com>
To: Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net>; Healey List
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
>
> Don, I have used Novus Plastic polish for years. It works well but
requires
> a lot of rubbing. How well it will work on your window will depend on how
> deep the damage is. It is listed in the Moss catalog in "Car Care and
> Additives" section page 43. I found it at a local electronics supply
store.
> I have also seen it at a local plexiglass and plastic manufacturer. Good
> Luck
>
> Steve Galyean
> 55 BN1
>
> From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > On a related note, does anyone have a good method and product for
clearing
> > up the plastic panel in the back of a softop? Mine is rather hazy
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 15:10:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires
Once again I'm not doing a concours restoration...so it's personal
preference for me. After researching the internet on most tires manufactures
sites and looking at many 3000's at shows, I settled on the Michelin ZX
175x15. Why?... personal preference once again and I want all the ride
height I can achieve, even in a BJ8. There are plenty of 65 and 70 aspect
ratio tires out there, but I want that extra 1/2'' of ride height plus the
175x15 tire fills the rear wheel opening somewhat more. I wanted a wider
tire, but the 185, 195 and 205 tires are just to wide for my preference and
"take away" from the British look of the car.
The Vredestein Sprint 185x15 is available, although it's 26.65" tall.
I looked on Pirelli's site just now and the only 15" size in the SP20 is the
165x15. The SP40 only comes with an aspect ratios of 65 and 70 in 15" height
and in 195 and 205 width or wider.
I believe the 175x15 is 1.0" wider that the 5.90x15 RS5.
Merry Christmas!
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8
Bradenton, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Gary R. Cox" <gcox@tampabay.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2001 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: Tires
> Gary:
> I have 185s now and they are fine except under VERY heavy cornering. What
are you
> running/
> ron
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 14:17:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
I agree that the best repair would be replacement of the window. Even if the
polish did clear it up, it wouldn't last because of the age of the plastic.
It will get you through another season.
It does come in different grades. I use #2 and #3. Start course and finish
with fine. The #1 is a cleaner.
Steve
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre
> Steve,
> Isn't there a #1 and #2 Novus. One of them is more gritty which is
the
> one that I would start with. Personally I have found that after the
yellow
> film starts to build up, the window really needs to be cut out and a new
> one stitched in. Any auto upholstery shop should be able to do this for
you.
> Unfortunately many P.Os just wiped off the rear windows like they
were
> a piece of glass and with what ever they could get there hands on. The
> proper way is to lightly wipe with sponge and soapy suds for lubrication,
> hose off and PAT dry(don't wipe) with a soft towel. Your windows will
stay
> clear for many years to come. You shouldn't have to use anything out of a
> spray can or bottle except a mild detergent and water.
>
> Now that all this is said and done, Don mentioned a plastic panel he
> wanted to clean.
> I hope by this he meant the back window panel. If not disregard my soapy
> water story.
>
> Mark
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Galyean <sgalyean@kscable.com>
> To: Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net>; Healey List
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 1:04 PM
> Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
>
>
> >
> > Don, I have used Novus Plastic polish for years. It works well but
> requires
> > a lot of rubbing. How well it will work on your window will depend on
how
> > deep the damage is. It is listed in the Moss catalog in "Car Care and
> > Additives" section page 43. I found it at a local electronics supply
> store.
> > I have also seen it at a local plexiglass and plastic manufacturer. Good
> > Luck
> >
> > Steve Galyean
> > 55 BN1
> >
> > From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
> >
> >
> > > On a related note, does anyone have a good method and product for
> clearing
> > > up the plastic panel in the back of a softop? Mine is rather hazy
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 16:42:31 -0500
Subject: tires
I recently purchased another healey and have no ideal how old the tires are,
other than visual inspection which looks ok. I cannot recall where or how to
read the date your tire was manufactured? Mine are Michelins XZX 165 SR 15.
Regardless how good they look, I 'm not interested in running on old tires. I
assume more than 5 years is old?
Thanks Dave
Finally blue bj8 in the blue ridge mts.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 14:18:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Dunlop SP 4's- Too old for safety?
Rohan,
I had this (balance on the car) done once by a shop in Redwood City.
Can't remember the name of the place, but it's on El Camino and (I think)
Whipple. A search at yellowpages.com produced Five Points Tire (the
name sounds familiar)
(650) 365-0280
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> Whilst we are on this topic can anyone recommend a good place to get
> the tires fitted and balanced well in the Silicon Valley area? Gary
> do you know anyone around Los Altos who is good?
>
> Last time I was lucky to find someone in LA (when I lived there) who
> knew how to balance the wheels whilst on the car and it made a huge
> difference. He jacked an end up and used a motor driven roller to
> engage the wheel and placed his hand on the body of the car above the
> wheel he was balancing. It looked like a true art.
>
> Any assistance is appreciated .. and Happy Christmas to all
> (especially all my compatriots in Oz where it is already Chrissy Day)
>
> Rohan
> (Longbridge BN4)
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 17:17:39 -0600
Subject: A quick note...
Ho, Ho, Ho List,
Just a quick note to wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas and a happy
prosperous New Year.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 15:57:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Holiday Greetings from Donald Healey
Please see:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/_wsn/page3.html
Happy Healeydays,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 19:36:41 EST
Subject: Re: Windshield Scratch
Don,
Meguire's makes a cleaner and a polisher for plastic windows. It doesn't
restore them to "new" condition but it certainly makes them much better.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 20:11:34 -0500
Subject: Sprite Hard-top
I have a hard-top for a 'square sprite' that I need to move. It is
currently disassembled and cleaned. It needs new seals and clamps, the back
glass is 'good', black exterior with a white interior; the interior could use
some work if left painted - I'd glue a headliner in.
I could get all the parts-pieces and assemble it but hesitate to do so
fearing mis-matched seal and clamp positions; I found this out putting a
hard-top on my BN-1.
Please contact me off-list for more info; an E-Photo could be a
possibility if I get that camera in my stocking tonight.
I also have a really rough 100-4 fiberglass top - needs a lot of work!
Thanks, I'm at cbaustin@sgi.net
Charley Braum
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 20:42:57 -0500
Subject: Pittsburgh Vintage GP
I am looking for any kind of memorabilia from the PVGP - started in 1983 -
and British Car Day - added to PVGP in 1985. For those unfamiliar, race week
starts with rallies and parties the week before the event. Shows and cruises
all over the Pittsburgh area, then practice on the track on Saturday along
with several car shows; the best one being British Car Day on the Schenley
Park Golf Course. On Sunday there is real racing and more shows and parties.
There's a web site, or contact me for more information. We always like to get
a good Healey contingent on site. We've been averaging 25 to 30 AH's for BCD
the past few years. I'm sure Fred Crowley, Jim Smith and Mike Oritt, and
others, can supply more info as well.
My request is for programs, posters, pins, hats, shirts, etc., etc.;
anything to do with either event that you need to get out of the attic. Please
contact me off-list if you have anything, however trivial.
I am also looking for a couple guys that raced here in the late 80's,
early 90's. Andy Moore in an XKE and Rich Freshman in a Morgan +4. I have some
photos they might be interested in; Andy was from Mississauga, ONT and Rich
was from SO.Cal.
Thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 20:52:21 -0500
Subject: Windshield Scratch
As far as soft-top plastic, or Plexiglas, scratches and or discoloration,
I've found that Harley Davidson sells a three-part-plastic buffing compound
assortment that is great. I did the 'glass' in my hardtop, beginning with very
deep scratches, and a couple soft-tops with excellent results.
It comes in three separate bottles; heavy, medium and fine polishing
grades. Get all three!
Good luck
Charley Braum
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 19:08:21 -0800
Subject: Badges
Listers:
I am still looking for a company that can replate my otherwise very good Mark
III front badge
any sources for chroming the existing cloisonni badges?
any sources for NOS (not crappy reproduction) badges?
thanks
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BJ8
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 21:44:53 -0500
Subject: RE: tires
If you really want to know how old the tires are, look at
the DOT code. You should see the letters DOT followed by
a group of letters and numbers. On newer tires, the last
four numbers indicate the week and year of manufacture
(i.e. 1701 = week 17 of 2001). Earlier tires will have only
three digits (i.e. 030 = week 3 of 1990). I don't recall when
they changed over to four digits. The first example is from
the new Dunlops on my BJ7 and the second is from the spare on
my MG which I bought in 1992 (the tire, not the car). When I bought
the tires for my MG in 1992, the dealer told me he had had them
around for a while, so 1990 is a plausible date for them.
(I am going from memory here so, if anyone has better information
on these codes I am happy to stand corrected.)
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
BTW, I put about 45k miles on the MG tires before I replaced them
last summer, roughly 9 years after I bought them.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of caudle1@charter.net
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 4:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: tires
I recently purchased another healey and have no ideal how old the tires are,
other than visual inspection which looks ok. I cannot recall where or how to
read the date your tire was manufactured? Mine are Michelins XZX 165 SR 15.
Regardless how good they look, I 'm not interested in running on old tires.
I
assume more than 5 years is old?
Thanks Dave
Finally blue bj8 in the blue ridge mts.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 22:22:54 EST
Subject: Re: Pittsburgh Vintage GP
In a message dated 12/24/01 8:20:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
> race week
> starts with rallies and parties the week before the event. Shows and cruises
> all over the Pittsburgh area, then practice on the track on Saturday along
> with several car shows; the best one being British Car Day on the Schenley
> Park Golf Course. On Sunday there is real racing and more shows and parties.
> There's a web site, or contact me for more information. We always like to
> get
> a good Healey contingent on site. We've been averaging 25 to 30 AH's for BCD
> the past few years. I'm sure Fred Crowley, Jim Smith and Mike Oritt, and
> others, can supply more info as well.
>
>
A great event and wonderful folks!
Seasons greetings to all--Michael Oritt
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 23:33:05 -0600
Subject: Holidays
We finally have good old Wisconsin weather w/ a little bit of snow for
Christmas! Time to sort out the cars for next season. Saw an MGA
coupe' with disc wheels in Milwaukee a couple of days ago.....anyone on
the list?
Wishing all of you a very Happy Holiday Season and may next year be the
year of the LBC!
To all a good night.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500 rdstr
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 01:12:09 EST
Subject: Re: Badges
If the cloisone is in good condition all you need is a good chrome plater in
your area and the can re chrome the badge with out damaging the cloisone.
Otherwise we have a pretty good reporo it is not perfect but close. I would
still recomend that you replate your original badge if it is in good
condition.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 09:00:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Badges
I have several excellent rechromed MkIII front badges and one excellent
rechromed MkII front badge in stock. They are not cheap but they are
originals and as good as new.
Contact me off line if interested.
A Healey Christmas and a Spritely New Year to all.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 10:08 PM
To: List, Healey
Subject: Badges
Listers:
I am still looking for a company that can replate my otherwise very good
Mark
III front badge
any sources for chroming the existing cloisonni badges?
any sources for NOS (not crappy reproduction) badges?
thanks
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BJ8
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 09:56:27 -0500
Subject: Bar badge
Seasons greetings to all on the list. A bud from the Aston Martin Club
gave me a ECURIE ECOSSE with St Andrews flag bar badge for x-mas. I was
not aware they were available. The Roadster Factory has them for those
of you from the motherland. Part #RFN950.
Jim Dalglish
1960BT72167
Manasquan, NJ
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 07:15:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Badges
Listers,
I have what appears to be a repro badge on my BJ8. I have a couple
of questions:
1) (per previous discussions) the badge should be "filled" with red paint,
not cloissonne, correct?
2) assuming affirmative to (1), what is the correct paint and color? I
assume an enamel would be best. For this kind of detail work I like to
use Testor's (or other hobbyist's paint), can anyone suggest a
good color match to original in a hobby paint?
3) what is the best technique to paint the badge? Since I'll be painting
chrome, I suspect I'll have a hard time getting even a primer paint to
stick. Also, how best to paint leaving the raised lettering unpainted?
Be verrrrry careful, or should I paint it solid, then somehow remove
the paint on the lettering? I'll be painting in situ if possible.
TIA, and Merry Christmas to All,
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Healey3000MKII at aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:14:28 EST
Subject: BT7 ( Find a home)
I want to sell my 1962 3000 MK II.
I don't want to get taken , nor do I want to take anybody. Do you know
anyone looking for one? I know you guys are into Super clean cars , this one
is not,it has been a driver for me since 1987............it looks great from
30'.........It is listed in Bill Boltons Tri-carb registry but it has dual
carbs , I'm thinking it is a dealer conversion , I could be wrong . I would
like the help of someone "in the know" to help set a price. I know the" rust
content" is important too, it has rust only in the footwells of the front
floor.The original color ,I believe , was Healey blue with Navy blue interior
, now BRG over white with black interior. I have offered this car to the list
before ,at that time I found a local buyer that could not come up with the
money.
Thanks
Jim Mulligan
El Paso, Texas
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 11:37:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Badges
Have painted my badge a few times over the years. Painted all then used
razor blade to carefully remove paint from top of letters. Worked OK.
Merry Christmas--Happy New year
Warren
67 BJ8
>From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net>
>To: Michael Salter <magicare@rogers.com>, "'Ron Rader'"
><rader@interworld.net>, "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Badges
>Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 07:15:54 -0800
>
>Listers,
>
>
>I have what appears to be a repro badge on my BJ8. I have a couple
>of questions:
>
>1) (per previous discussions) the badge should be "filled" with red paint,
> not cloissonne, correct?
>
>2) assuming affirmative to (1), what is the correct paint and color? I
> assume an enamel would be best. For this kind of detail work I like
>to
> use Testor's (or other hobbyist's paint), can anyone suggest a
> good color match to original in a hobby paint?
>
>3) what is the best technique to paint the badge? Since I'll be painting
> chrome, I suspect I'll have a hard time getting even a primer paint to
> stick. Also, how best to paint leaving the raised lettering
>unpainted?
> Be verrrrry careful, or should I paint it solid, then somehow remove
> the paint on the lettering? I'll be painting in situ if possible.
>
>
>TIA, and Merry Christmas to All,
>
>Bob
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 10:32:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: A-H Poster
Hi Charlie,
I hope you don't mind if I share your message and my response with the
Healeys Mail List, but it sounds like you've got a real enthusiast family
thing going there -- from your Dad to your Daughter -- and I just wanted to
share the enthusiasm with the list subscribers. "Healey Christmas" to you,
too!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
On Tue, 25 Dec 2001 10:17:03 -0600, Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> Reid,
>
> Thank you so much for the Austin Healey poster you sent me... it was very
> kind of you! My wife said she would have it framed and hang it with all
my
> other "cool" British car collectables.
>
> My 14 year old daughter bought me the "Austin-Healey Authentic
Restoration
> Guide" by Gary Anderson and Roger Moment... she picked this out on her
> own! I also noticed your name in the acknowledgments along with other
> reconizable names from the Healey list... this is by far the best A-H
book
> I've gotten my hands on.
>
> With the BN1 from Adriane, the book from Amanda and the poster from you,
> it's been a very Healey Christmas!!!
>
> Thanks again Reid,
>
> Charlie Stewart
>
> PS My dad and I leave Friday morning to pick up the car from Temecula,
> CA... possibly with a Formula Ford 1600 in tow to deliver to another
> enthusiast in CA.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send a friend your Buddy Card and stay in contact always with Excite Messenger
http://messenger.excite.com
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 14:14:36 -0500
Subject: Speedo angle drive
I have a used speedometer angle drive that turns well that I have
cleaned up by spraying solvent inside. It makes a little gear noise
but turns freely. I also bought a new old stock Smiths cable for the
speedo. I examined the cable and it is free of rust. I sprinkled
graphite on the cable. The assembly of the cable and angle drive
turns well. How should I lubricate the angle drive? A light oil or
synthetic grease?
Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN 7 bits
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 16:42:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Badges
> Listers,
>
>
> I have what appears to be a repro badge on my BJ8. I have a couple
> of questions:
>
> 1) (per previous discussions) the badge should be "filled" with red paint,
> not cloissonne, correct?
>
> 2) assuming affirmative to (1), what is the correct paint and color? I
> assume an enamel would be best. For this kind of detail work I like
to
> use Testor's (or other hobbyist's paint), can anyone suggest a
> good color match to original in a hobby paint?
>
> 3) what is the best technique to paint the badge? Since I'll be painting
> chrome, I suspect I'll have a hard time getting even a primer paint to
> stick. Also, how best to paint leaving the raised lettering
unpainted?
> Be verrrrry careful, or should I paint it solid, then somehow remove
> the paint on the lettering? I'll be painting in situ if possible.
>
>
> TIA, and Merry Christmas to All,
>
> Bob
I have had pretty good luck on similar tasks by painting without any great
care, just be sure to fill all the need paint areas. Then I wipe off the
not to be painted areas with cloth with lacquer thinnner. Q tip might be
helpful too.
Keith Pennell
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 20:51:22 -0500
Subject: Virus Alert
My anti-virus program intercepted one today coming off the list - the file
is dwarf4you.exe and has a 'hybris' worm in it.
Before I get questions about this - my computer told me so, I don't have a
clue what this really means!
Good Luck
Charley Braum
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 18:21:19 +0100
Subject: Fast Healey
Heading south on Pacific Coast Highway into Newport Beach last weekend,
a British Racing Green Healey, BT7ish, with roll bar and the number "60"
in a white circle, with a very strong sounding V-8 engine, very fast.
Anyone know this car??
Rich
BT7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 10:21:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Pittsburgh Vintage GP
I'll add a plug for the PVGP.....This is one unique event, the Pittsburgh
Vintage Grand Prix.. Something for everyone including a Huge British car
show and exciting vintage racing.
The racing is unique because it is the only vintage race venue in the US
where we race through city streets. Its a 2.33 mile circuitous course
through Schenley Park (near downtown Pittsburgh), turned into a racetrack
for the two day racing event. And even though more than 100,000 spectators
come to watch, its not really crowded due to the expanse of the park.
Check out the attached Website. It has some great photos of the 2001
event. (or go to the September8th homepage which will direct you to
previous years, and other events as well).
http://www.september8th.com/PVGP-01-1.htm
See you there,
Jim
BN1 vintage racer
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 8:42 PM
Subject: Pittsburgh Vintage GP
>
> the PVGP - started in 1983 -
> and British Car Day - added to PVGP in 1985. For those unfamiliar, race
week
> starts with rallies and parties the week before the event. Shows and
cruises
> all over the Pittsburgh area, then practice on the track on Saturday along
> with several car shows; the best one being British Car Day on the Schenley
> Park Golf Course. On Sunday there is real racing and more shows and
parties.
> There's a web site, or contact me for more information. We always like to
get
> a good Healey contingent on site. We've been averaging 25 to 30 AH's for
BCD
> the past few years. I'm sure Fred Crowley, Jim Smith and Mike Oritt, and
> others, can supply more info as well.
>
>> Charley Braum
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 08:25:10 +0100
Subject: Tires
Kumho tires produces a model 771 in the 165 size. Is anyone running
that tire and what do you think of it? I believe it is speed rated at
118mph.
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 10:00:27 -0800
Subject: gear set installation
With the Lempert 3.54 gear set production almost here (fingers crossed)
I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a So. California shop
to set them up properly.
Cheers,
John
Laguna Beach, CA
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From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:26:20 -0500
Subject: Basic Tire Question
I recently purchased a '56 BN2, which is currently wearing Dunlop Gold Seal
bias ply tires (tubeless, 6.00 - 15L).
I want to put on a set of radials to improve driving performance. I've
been following the tire discussion over the last few days, trying to figure
out what best to buy.
My question is this:
If the 175/15 has the correct 26" inch diameter, why does Restoration Guide
(Anderson / Moment) recommend the 25.3" 165/15? The 165/15 also seems to
be the general consensus / preference from the list, in spite of the lower
profile.
Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays to all.
Daniel C. Tiedge
Ahold USA, Inc.
14101 Newbrook Drive
Chantilly, VA 20151
(703) 961-6083 - (Office)
(571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 16:00:09 EST
Subject: Re: Basic Tire Question
In a message dated 12/26/01 10:28:04 AM, dtiedge@aholdusa.com writes:
<<
If the 175/15 has the correct 26" inch diameter, why does Restoration Guide
(Anderson / Moment) recommend the 25.3" 165/15? The 165/15 also seems to
be the general consensus / preference from the list, in spite of the lower
profile. >>
The main reason is that the Dunlop SP20, which only comes in 165/15 size, is
a better tire, made with current technology and materials. It has a reaonably
narrow width, even though it's just a bit smaller in diameter, but is a safer
and more comfortable driving tire than the alternatives.
Cheers
Gary
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 13:21:44 +0100
Subject: test
test
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 15:08:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Basic Tire Question
dan,
assuming your bn2 has the original 48 spoke wheels, you only have a 4" wide rim
for mounting a wider tire. you should have a minimum width of 5" for the
175x15 -- although lots of folks run them on 60 spoke ( 4 1/2" ) wheels. 72
spoke wires and mini-lite wheels come with a 5" or wider rim. the 165X15
radial is a much smaller tire, diametrically, than the original 590x15
roadspeed original equipment tires. some folks just don't like their
wheelwells filled so they keep on running the 165x15.
Dan Tiedge wrote:
>
>
> I recently purchased a '56 BN2, which is currently wearing Dunlop Gold Seal
> bias ply tires (tubeless, 6.00 - 15L).
>
> I want to put on a set of radials to improve driving performance. I've
> been following the tire discussion over the last few days, trying to figure
> out what best to buy.
>
> My question is this:
>
> If the 175/15 has the correct 26" inch diameter, why does Restoration Guide
> (Anderson / Moment) recommend the 25.3" 165/15? The 165/15 also seems to
> be the general consensus / preference from the list, in spite of the lower
> profile.
>
> Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays to all.
>
>
> Daniel C. Tiedge
> Ahold USA, Inc.
> 14101 Newbrook Drive
> Chantilly, VA 20151
> (703) 961-6083 - (Office)
> (571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
>
> /
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 15:57:49 -0600
Subject: 3.54 Gear Sets
For those looking for a source to install the soon to arrive new gear sets,
the machine shop that works with me on my car is completely capable and
reasonable. They build race cars among other things. We rebuilt my two
interchangeable BJ8 pumpkins with different ratios.
I am located in Dallas, TX. Please contact me off line for further
information.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 15:02:48 +0100
Subject: Basic Tire Question
Hi Dan-
Great question, why are the 165's so popular when the 175
matches the original bias ply tire diameter.
I've owned my Healey since 1967 and the tire of choice through
the
decades has been the 165, with the next most popular choice from my
experience being the 185/70, which has a slightly smaller diameter
still.
In my opinion, part of the reason 165's have been so popular was
availability - there used to be dozens of 165 brands from which to
choose while 175's were even in those days much rarer. Part of the
reason was rim size - my original 48 spoke wire wheels had a 4" width
and the 175 was starting to get pinched on that narrow rim. Part of the
reason was convention - everybody seemed to run 165's so everybody
replaced 165's with the same.
Nowadays the range of preferences and tastes on the list spans
the
range of available tire sizes. Some like the traditional or typical
165's. Some opt for a wider profile look and go for the 185/70's
although this size is now hard to find. Some like a more muscular image
maybe like the Cobra and pick the 195/65 (diameter around 25.2") size
which also offers the added benefit of being available in a large number
of brands.
Some run 195/70's with a diameter near 26", Goodyear makes or
made one - these are big tires with more load capacity than any of the
above. And they are expensive.
And some want a tire with the same 26" diameter of the orignial bias
plys, which happens to be the currently very rare 175. The Michelin XZX
at $80+ each seems to be the most readily available and popular. Some
like its old technology design, others see it as dated and want
something more modern.
The 26" diameter has gotten a lot of discussion on this list and
has
become important to a growing number of people. I can't remember the
last Healey I saw with 175's - would like to see one to see how much
difference it made overall.
So part of the answer for you is what is important to you
personally.
You said you wanted to improve performance. The jump from bias to radial
will give you a massive improvement. You have a wonderful treat instore!
After that, the choice of size and type of radial offers a smaller
improvement and has trade offs.
First, if you get a good handling tire like the Dunlop SP20, it
rides
on the hard side. Good handling requires stiff sidewalls and a stiff
tread. A more comfortable touring tire requires softer sidewalls and
tread to soak up bumps. Can't have both. I recall Consumer Reports
saying the SP20 was one of the harder riding tires it tested a few years
back. After years of a very hard tire on a wide rim I personally am
leaning toward a softer touring tire for my next purchase. My butt is
tired.
Next, a wider rim, like 5 1/2", improves handling by
straightening out the sidewalls somewhat and making them stiffer, and
also allowing lower profile tires with bigger cross section and
footprint. This will give
you improved performance over a 4" rim width even if you ran the same
tire as I have done, in my case a 165.
So you, me and everyone needs to ponder these and other
variables which any individual could deem important and come up with the
tire size and model that's best for them. Different spokes for different
folks.
Finally, if you are interested in concours, then you are quite
restricted on what will work.
This has been my experience and opinion and others may have
different views for you to savor.
Regardless, when you go radial, you will be smiling ear to ear!
Best,
Rich
BT7
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 17:43:10 -0800
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
Jim, et al,
Can our speedometers be re-calibrated to indicate accurately with
the taller rear ends?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
>
> For those looking for a source to install the soon to arrive new gear sets,
> the machine shop that works with me on my car is completely capable and
> reasonable. They build race cars among other things. We rebuilt my two
> interchangeable BJ8 pumpkins with different ratios.
>
> I am located in Dallas, TX. Please contact me off line for further
> information.
>
> Best regards.
> Jim Hockert
> BJ8 Rallye
> Dallas, TX
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 20:54:05 -0500
Subject: Boot floor
Hello Everyone,
Could someone please answer a question regarding the boot floor. I am
replacing mine and since the original was cut out by the PO, I can't tell
how a particular part of it is supposed to go. I can't tell if the forward
part of the floor goes 'over' or 'under' the flange on the scuttle. This
would be the forward edge outside of the rails that has the slight arch in
it. It would make sense that it goes over the flange to help keep water out
being thrown up from the rear wheels, but it seems to fit better going under
the flange. Thanks for the help.
Heard Saxon
'60BT7
Enterprise, FL.
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 21:03:48 -0500
Subject: Aluminum work
Hello Listers,
Does anyone know of a good place in Central Florida to have the aluminum
work done on my shroud. Or anywhere in Florida for that matter. Personal
experience would be appreciated. Thanks,
Heard Saxon
'60BT7
Enterprise, FL
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 21:58:24 -0500
Subject: re boot floor
Heard,
The floor goes over the flange, it was never typically a perfect fit . The
factory relied on
a very heavy coat of caulking to keep out the water/dirt ect. My
recomendation would be
to get the flange and boot floor fit as flush as poss and use a urethane
caulk that is
paintable. you can also coat the insides with a weldable primer. This area
gets only
a small stitch or seam weld someweres on the arch so its easy to pack the
area with
caulk after you weld.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 23:50:37 -0500
Subject: RE: Boot floor
Heard
I took a look at my project (BJ7) and the area you asked about is over the top
of the scuttle flange. When viewed from the top, the flange can not be seen,
only from under the car is the flange visible.
Ken Mason
"Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
>
>Hello Everyone,
>Could someone please answer a question regarding the boot floor. I am
>replacing mine and since the original was cut out by the PO, I can't tell
>how a particular part of it is supposed to go. I can't tell if the forward
>part of the floor goes 'over' or 'under' the flange on the scuttle. This
>would be the forward edge outside of the rails that has the slight arch in
>it. It would make sense that it goes over the flange to help keep water out
>being thrown up from the rear wheels, but it seems to fit better going under
>the flange. Thanks for the help.
>
>Heard Saxon
>'60BT7
>Enterprise, FL.
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:01:54 -0000
Subject: RE: Badges
PD Enamels
! New Street,
Chumleigh,
Devon EX18 7DB
UK
Tel 01769 581 122
Did mine. Perfect job, like new. Think they're supposed to be the
best. Certainly here.
Guess they're not cheap. But, you gets what you pays for?
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: 25 December 2001 03:08
To: List, Healey
Subject: Badges
Listers:
I am still looking for a company that can replate my otherwise
very good Mark
III front badge
any sources for chroming the existing cloisonni badges?
any sources for NOS (not crappy reproduction) badges?
thanks
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey CA
1965 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 08:01:12 -0600
Subject: Wheel cylinders
Lister,
I picked up a couple of rear brake cylinders for my 1960-BT7
not really knowing what style my car takes because its at the body
shop. Can some one tell me if the double piston cylinder (similar to an
MGB) is correct for a 60 BT7 or should it be a single cylinder. The parts
books that I have aren't much help on details.
It seems that there were a couple of different styles used in this time era.
Thanks, Mark
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 08:53:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Wheel cylinders
Hi mark,
Your car uses a single piston aluminum wheel cylinder with a bore of
0.75".
Part number is 17H4641.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Lister,
I picked up a couple of rear brake cylinders for my 1960-BT7
not really knowing what style my car takes because its at the body
shop. Can some one tell me if the double piston cylinder (similar to
an
MGB) is correct for a 60 BT7 or should it be a single cylinder. The
parts
books that I have aren't much help on details.
It seems that there were a couple of different styles used in this time
era.
Thanks, Mark
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:05:29 EST
Subject: Re: Wheel cylinders
The Healey does not use the dual cylinder like the MGB, it uses a single
piston cylinder. This cylinder also has a lever attached to it that operates
the hand brake.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
In a message dated 12/27/01 4:59:24 AM, mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net writes:
<<
Lister,
I picked up a couple of rear brake cylinders for my 1960-BT7
not really knowing what style my car takes because its at the body
shop. Can some one tell me if the double piston cylinder (similar to an
MGB) is correct for a 60 BT7 or should it be a single cylinder. The parts
books that I have aren't much help on details.
It seems that there were a couple of different styles used in this time era.
Thanks, Mark >>
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:25:10 -0500
Subject: Rear Axle Removal
Any suggestions on removing the rear axle from the body shell. I have removed
all fixings, springs, etc,. but not the emergeny brakes attachments and rods.
I don't seem to be able to turn the axle properly to get the differential
protrusion in a position to remove the axle.
Thanks,
Larry
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:39:42 -0500
Subject: Speedo Angle drive
I have a used speedometer angle drive that turns well that I have
cleaned up by spraying solvent inside. It makes a little gear noise
but turns freely. I also bought a new old stock Smiths cable for the
speedo. I examined the cable and it is free of rust. I sprinkled
graphite on the cable. That the best thing to do? The assembly of the
cable and angle drive turns well. How should I lubricate the angle
drive? A light oil or synthetic grease?
Thanks for your help.
Alain Giguhre
BN 7 bits
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From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:58:15 EST
Subject: Repainting Badges
Dear Listers,
There was a previous question about repainting the color and application
technique.
from Bob Spidell.
I never saw the answer as to the correct color to use (and source)...
and what paint is best for applying to chromed surface.
Would you just apply over the previous color, since it is still adhering?
Thanks and Happy Holidays to All,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:07:57 +1100
Subject: BN1 windscreen seal
Hi
Can anyone tell me if anyone has produced a windscreen to shroud seal
(weatherstrip) for the BN1 with the proper curve to match the shape of
the shroud.
Regards
Larry Varley
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From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 15:11:48 -0500
Subject: Worldwide Registries
I think that the "whole" of the Healey Club vision is always blocked by the
ego trips that each Club has taken over the years!
When back in the mid 1970's, I tried to call for one Club in the World, the
hue and cry heard around the World dimmed out any reason that could have come
to task.
Each and every so often, new blood comes in with good intentions and trys to
reinvent the "Dunlops" again, but the basic problem is that the ego trips
outdo the good intentions. When John Wheatley and I were coordinating the UK
and USA registries for the 100-4, it only went so far and then John was
slighted by someone in the English Club and he gave up. Now we have the BL
Heritage making a good "Buck" on the Certificates and they have all the info
about the 100's right in their files. See if they will "share" the entire
list with the World.
I have not only the AHCA numbers, my own lists for over 30 years, a list from
Australia, some of John's list from the UK, plus all of the 100M info from
Geoffrey Healey...it has been most interesting to personally work with and has
answered many questions for many people. It has not answered questions which
were not legitimate or which were for profit. I do answer most inquiries of
me, but I do not waste my time on the general "foolish" questions which often
come up.
I owned most of the 100S cars in the USA and have looked on the list of owners
and cars, first from one person and then another from either the USA, or
Australia, and have been amused at the inaccuracy of even that short list of
cars.
What ever the reasons for the 100 Registry Worldwide is somewhat confusing to
me. Many of the numbers that I have in my 2200 plus recorded numbers are
junked cars where parts are used on other cars. Whoever, the Hell, cares
about the numbers should go out to their garage or driveway, look at their own
Chassis number, then get into their car and take a nice long relaxing trip
around their block and enjoy the 100-4 you own!
Now I have said my thought
Bill Wood
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From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 21:32:28 -0000
Subject: shroud badges
Listers,
I have followed this subject with interest .
Myself I have used a company in the UK called , Roberts Enamels, and can
highly recommend them.Both quality and price are first class.
A brilliant site to check out ANY trader is www.classic-car-world.com
If you go into this site and search under "badges & decals"it will turn up
quite a comprehensive list of specialists in this field.
Good Luck.
Regard's.
David.
David Ward
Big Healey
Tel: +44 1623 871908
Fax: +44 1623 871908
E-Mail: david@bighealey.ltd.uk
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk
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From "Tim Weitzel" <max_tim at lycos.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 18:05:54 -0500
Subject: XSP Competition Engine
Does anyone have any information on XSP 6 cylinder competition engines? The
only info I am able to find is in Geoffrey Healey's book, pg 236 and graph 7 in
the appendix entitled "the engines". It appears that 2 were built for a special
car at the 1959 Nassau races. According to the book the engine developed 168 hp
with Weber 38mm carbs but give no other details of what was special about the
engine. If anyone knows any further details I would be appreciative.
Thank you,
Tim Weitzel
--
Click here for your very own create-a-date adventure from MatchMaker
Go to http://ecard.matchmaker.com/dating.html
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From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:09:56 -0400
Subject: Help/British cars in Nebraska
Looking for one Ray Atwood in Nebraska. have information on his british
car.
Thanks
T.R. Householder
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 17:36:23 -0700
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
A good speedometer shop can recalibrate your speedo within a reasonable range.
Try
MOMA at (505) 766-6661.
Bill Lawrence
Bob Spidell wrote:
> Jim, et al,
>
> Can our speedometers be re-calibrated to indicate accurately with
> the taller rear ends?
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 18:29:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Removal
You don't mention what model your car is and I think the procedure may vary a
little bit depending on the body style. I know the instructions for the BN1
require you to remove the bump box above the axle and the rebound buffer on the
chassis. I'm sure the Battery fixings etc. don't help either.
Bill Lawrence
Larry Swift wrote:
> Any suggestions on removing the rear axle from the body shell. I have removed
> all fixings, springs, etc,. but not the emergeny brakes attachments and rods.
> I don't seem to be able to turn the axle properly to get the differential
> protrusion in a position to remove the axle.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry
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From "Mark Endicott" <endicott at nashville.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 20:17:16 -0600
Subject: Lucas/Moss Lights
I am thinking about installing a pair of driving lights on my BN1. Does
anyone have any comments on the Moss reproductions vs. the real thing? I
have seen the Moss reproductions and they look pretty good and are much less
costly than the Lucas.
Mark
Nashville
BN1
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 22:34:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedo Angle drive
Hi Alain,
I have a BN1. When I assembled it's 4 cylinder engine I simply lubricated
the speedo angle drive with same oil that I run in the crankcase. When it is
running, the speedo angle drive is lubricated with motor oil so it seemed
logical to pre-lube it with motor oil. I am not familiar with the 6 cylinder
motor but looking at the engine diagram for the 6 cylinder motor, it also
appears to be lubricated with the engine crankcase oil also. When I have
lubricated speedometer cables for various cars and motorcycles I have always
used motor oil. I never have any graphite when I need it. I will be
interested in hearing others thoughts on this subject.
Steve Galyean
BN1
Subject: Speedo Angle drive
> I have a used speedometer angle drive that turns well that I have
> cleaned up by spraying solvent inside. It makes a little gear noise
> but turns freely. I also bought a new old stock Smiths cable for the
> speedo. I examined the cable and it is free of rust. I sprinkled
> graphite on the cable. That the best thing to do? The assembly of the
> cable and angle drive turns well. How should I lubricate the angle
> drive? A light oil or synthetic grease?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN 7 bits
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 22:39:53 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 windscreen seal
I'll second this request.
Steve Galyean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Varley"
>
> Hi
> Can anyone tell me if anyone has produced a windscreen to shroud seal
> (weatherstrip) for the BN1 with the proper curve to match the shape of
> the shroud.
> Regards
> Larry Varley
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 23:10:45 -0800
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
Another option is to have a ratio adapter made, which is a little box of
gears installed in-line on the speedometer cable. It changes the turning
speed of the cable to produce accurate speedometer and odometer readings
based on rear axle ratio, tire size, etc. This solution requires no
modifications to the speedometer itself and for that reason alone may be
preferable.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
1958 Sprite (AN5L/636)
1963 Sprite Mk II project (HAN7L/30003)
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
>
> A good speedometer shop can recalibrate your speedo within a reasonable
range. Try
> MOMA at (505) 766-6661.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > Jim, et al,
> >
> > Can our speedometers be re-calibrated to indicate accurately with
> > the taller rear ends?
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 04:58:53 -0600
Subject: Speedometer Cable
Hey Gang:
I have the right angle drive speedometer on my BN7. Problem: The cable
snapped right at the "gearbox". Does anyone have a suggestion on how to
reattach the cable? Or is it best left to a professional like MoMa?
Don
BN7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 08:45:40 -0500
Subject: BN-1 windscreen seal
I had one custom made a while back and found that the double curve of the
body -vs- the seal fixture is not real friendly to any sort of seal material
that will really seal.
My final answer was to use the standard seal offered by all the suppliers
and when a seal was really required, I have a section of somewhat softer
rubber, in a wedge shape, that I install from the inside, between the
permanent seal and the body, using my calibrated fingertip pressure setting.
Definitely not correct, but keeps the rain, wind and snow out!
I'd also like to know if there is another option.
Charley
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 08:54:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Wheel cylinders
Mark,
The early BN1's took double piston rear wheel cylinders. The Girling
numbers, which should be on the box, are 390150 and 390151 (they
come in left side and right side configurations). All later Big Healeys
use the Girling 390416 rear wheel cylinder, which is the same on both
sides of the car. Often these numbers are followed by a "W" on the
box label.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> I picked up a couple of rear brake cylinders for my 1960-BT7
> not really knowing what style my car takes because its at the body
> shop. Can some one tell me if the double piston cylinder (similar to an
> MGB) is correct for a 60 BT7 or should it be a single cylinder. The
parts
> books that I have aren't much help on details.
> It seems that there were a couple of different styles used in this time
era.
>
> Thanks, Mark
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 09:13:22 -0600
Subject: Re: XSP Competition Engine
Tim,
I worked on a car more than 20 years ago that had an XSP motor, XSP
816-3. It was a screamer. The owner researched the number after I
found it (further back on the block than usual). Turns out it was the 3rd
standby motor for the '59 Sebring races, if I recall correctly. This motor
had been installed by a Florida AH dealer for the PO. Evidently it was
sold to the dealership so it would not have to be transported back to
England after the event. I have no mechanical specs, but I can tell you
that most of the fasteners were safety-wired, and when it hit 4,000 rpm
it felt like afterburners cut in. Cam was rather radical, and the car was
a thrill to drive.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Weitzel" <max_tim@lycos.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 5:05 PM
Subject: XSP Competition Engine
>
> Does anyone have any information on XSP 6 cylinder competition engines?
The only info I am able to find is in Geoffrey Healey's book, pg 236 and
graph 7 in the appendix entitled "the engines". It appears that 2 were built
for a special car at the 1959 Nassau races. According to the book the engine
developed 168 hp with Weber 38mm carbs but give no other details of what was
special about the engine. If anyone knows any further details I would be
appreciative.
> Thank you,
> Tim Weitzel
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:00:44 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 windscreen seal
The seals sold by A-H Spares seem to have the best fit I've seen lately.
Both ends have good curvature to them. I found the fit to be perfect on the
right side of my car, but some buckling remained on the left, even though the
seal is identical in shape left to right.
I think this is the best seal available, and as good as any I've found over
the years.
Roger
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:04:19 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
In a message dated 12/28/01 2:11:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, dougi@shaw.ca
writes:
> Another option is to have a ratio adapter made, which is a little box of
> gears installed in-line on the speedometer cable. It changes the turning
> speed of the cable to produce accurate speedometer and odometer readings
> based on rear axle ratio, tire size, etc. This solution requires no
> modifications to the speedometer itself and for that reason alone may be
> preferable.
>
> Doug Ingram
>
anyone have a resources on this?
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (awaiting gearset)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:08:06 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 windscreen seal
In a message dated 12/28/01 8:23:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
> I have a section of somewhat softer
> rubber, in a wedge shape, that I install from the inside
I find that a white Gold Cup sock (size large) works fairly well with
occasional wringing out....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (with various suppliers' seals having been
installed, all with the same results)
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From Jag62e at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:49:47 EST
Subject: Re: Speedometer Cable
In a message dated 12/28/2001 4:04:19 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
donyarber@earthlink.net writes:
<<
I have the right angle drive speedometer on my BN7. Problem: The cable
snapped right at the "gearbox". Does anyone have a suggestion on how to
reattach the cable? Or is it best left to a professional like MoMa?
Don
BN7 >>
Don, I have been able to repair two of them . Completely disasemble the drive
unit.
If the cable is broken , it is usually still long enough to re-attach to the
gear shaft.
If it has come loose, I have used JB Weld to reattach it. I have found that
these break because of the sppedometer is frozen, so make sure it turns
freely.
Dick North
BJ8
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 08:27:36 -0800
Subject: Re: BN-1 windscreen seal
Has anyone used the windscreen seal from Macgregor British Car Parts? He
mentioned that their seals were correct during our last conversation.
http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:28:26 EST
Subject: BNi-2 windshield seal--Concours specs
Looking at the cover of the November issue of the AHCUSA magazine I see that
Paul Schwartz's Gold level BN2 has the usual wrinkles in the windshield seal.
I wonder if there are points DEDUCTED for a straight seal.... Has anyone
seen one that fits without a wrinkle? I have not and have been told that is
the way the cars came off the line.
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (w/wrinkles)
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:33:10 -0500
Subject: RE: Speedometer Cable
Hi Don,
We have found that the most common cause of breakage of the angle box is
seizing of the odometer section in the speedometer itself. It seems that
the angle box is the weakest link in the drive chain. Be sure to check
the speedo carefully before installing a new angle drive.
We have those boxes on an exchange basis however the cost of rebuilding
them is not a lot less than a new one.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Don Yarber
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 5:59 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Speedometer Cable
Hey Gang:
I have the right angle drive speedometer on my BN7. Problem: The cable
snapped right at the "gearbox". Does anyone have a suggestion on how to
reattach the cable? Or is it best left to a professional like MoMa?
Don
BN7
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:45:54 -0800
Subject: Re: BNi-2 windshield seal--Concours specs
In 1956, my new BN2's seal fit nice and tight with the windshield in
the up position. It didn't fit worth a darn in the down position, and
flapped in the breeze, giving me a Bronx cheer if I got much above 45
mph.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
On Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:28:26 EST, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
::
:: Looking at the cover of the November issue of the AHCUSA magazine I see that
:: Paul Schwartz's Gold level BN2 has the usual wrinkles in the windshield
:seal.
:: I wonder if there are points DEDUCTED for a straight seal.... Has anyone
:: seen one that fits without a wrinkle? I have not and have been told that
:is
:: the way the cars came off the line.
::
:: Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (w/wrinkles)
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 14:27:58 -0600
Subject: Re: BNi-2 windshield seal--Concours specs
Michael,
I have an unrestored BN1 in the shop now, with an original (but very
gnarly) UNWRINKLED windshield seal. Wanna picher? For that
matter, you can have the seal if you would like a real one to reproduce.
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 11:28 AM
Subject: BNi-2 windshield seal--Concours specs
>
> Looking at the cover of the November issue of the AHCUSA magazine I see
that
> Paul Schwartz's Gold level BN2 has the usual wrinkles in the windshield
seal.
> I wonder if there are points DEDUCTED for a straight seal.... Has anyone
> seen one that fits without a wrinkle? I have not and have been told that
is
> the way the cars came off the line.
>
> Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (w/wrinkles)
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From john mann <jemann58 at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:32:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: rear end ratio
How do you figure the ratio of the gears in the rear
end it is not marked? Thanks for info.
john
email jemann58@yahoo.com
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 16:19:48 -0500
Subject: Badges Available
I just got a hood winged-badge from Sports & Classics in Darien CT. They cost
$50 each, and are newly made in England. They aren't perfect, but are pretty
good. Were the originals perfect? They have lots of Mark II and Mark III
badges, and they are the ones sold through Moss and Victoria.
FYI, and I have no financial interest in them, except what I spend there.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:00:36 -0500
Subject: Re: rear end ratio
> How do you figure the ratio of the gears in the rear
> end it is not marked? Thanks for info.
> john
John,
The stamping should be on the back side of the axle housing about 12-16
inches from the backplate. It will show 11 over 43 for a 3.909 rear
(standard on a OD car) or a 11 over 39 for a 3.545 rear (standard for a
nonOD car).
If no stampings are there, and that is not uncommon, you can determine
pretty readily the ratio. Jack up the rear wheels off the ground. Use jack
stands or some secure means of holding the rear up. Crawl under and place a
mark at the bottom of the tire on the inside and a mark on the bottom side
of the driveshaft. With car in neutral begin turning the driveshaft and
count the number of revolutions to get one complete rotation of the tire.
Approximately 3 and 1/2 means 3.5 rear and almost 4 means 3.9 rear.
Hope this is clear.
Keith Pennell
BJ8 with 3.5
BN7 with 3.9
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 19:12:45 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 windscreen seal
In a message dated 12/28/01 6:51:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, Rmoment writes:
> MacGregor's has a bend molded into it. So does the A-H SPares one
Roger--according to both Martin MacGregor himself and a straightedge the seal
that he supplies has no curve whatsoever--he told me that he gets it in rolls
and cuts lengths off. However, he insisted that if the seal is pushed into
the channel inch by inch rather than slid thru it from one side to the
other--as I did it--that it would conform to the curve of the body. And he
was kind enough to send me a replacement at no cost, which I have not yet
installed and so I cannot say for sure that it will not fit without the
bulge, although how a straight piece of rubber can bend without producing a
bulge is beyond me.
I'll be happy to let you know what happens when I install the replacement
according to Martin's instructions. In the meantime, Doug Reid sent me a
photo of an unrestored BN1 in his shop with a seal that fits perfectly!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:26:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Speedometer Cable
Don,
The angle drive can be repaired. The metal disk ends are held in place by
the metal being peened. Inside the angle drive is a short piece of
speedometer cable. If you have an old cable you have all the parts needed
to repair it.
John
'62 BT7
At 04:58 AM 12/28/01 -0600, you wrote:
>Hey Gang:
>
>I have the right angle drive speedometer on my BN7. Problem: The cable
>snapped right at the "gearbox". Does anyone have a suggestion on how to
>reattach the cable? Or is it best left to a professional like MoMa?
>
>Don
>BN7
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:55:20 -0800
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
Contact Jim Loosli at Canwest Tachograph in New Westminster BC, phone
604-525-2344 fax 604-525-4536. No email or website that I know of. My ratio
adapter cost around $120 in Canadian dollarettes, approx $75 US dollars. No
interest on my part, other than as a satisfied customer, as are several of
my British car friends.
Doug
> anyone have a resources on this?
>
> Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (awaiting gearset)
>
> In a message dated 12/28/01 2:11:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dougi@shaw.ca
> writes:
>
>
> > Another option is to have a ratio adapter made, which is a little box of
> > gears installed in-line on the speedometer cable. It changes the turning
> > speed of the cable to produce accurate speedometer and odometer readings
> > based on rear axle ratio, tire size, etc. This solution requires no
> > modifications to the speedometer itself and for that reason alone may be
> > preferable.
> >
> > Doug Ingram
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 22:21:37 -0500
Subject: Attn: Tom Felts
Tried again, sorry to use the list, but, my e-mail won't go straight
through to you!! Try someone else on Stargate to double check.
Regards,
Charley
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 17:03:51 +1100
Subject: Re: BN-1 windscreen seal
Thanks to all those that responded. I will go with the A-H Spares
version as suggested by Roger Moment, as having the curve in it would
have to offer some chance of the seal fitting correctly.
Regards
Larry Varley
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 21:11:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Speedometer Cable - Advice
> We have found that the most common cause of breakage of the angle box is
> seizing of the odometer section in the speedometer itself. It seems that
> the angle box is the weakest link in the drive chain. Be sure to check
> the speedo carefully before installing a new angle drive.
> We have those boxes on an exchange basis however the cost of rebuilding
> them is not a lot less than a new one.
>
Hey Listers,
All this talk about speedo cables has me wondering. On the last drive
before putting the car away for the season, I noticed that my Tach was
acting up. In that, the needle would seem to stick at about 2500 RPMs, jump
around slowly, then settle back down and sticking again. Just another thing
to add to the late winter / early spring project list. Any thoughts or
suggestions on what to check for first? All suggestions are appreciated.
Happy New Healey Year,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
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From "Eric Raffault" <raffault1 at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:04:20 +0000
Subject: AH MK3 Bodyshell
I try to find an used complet bodyshell, BJ8 1965-1967, could you help me to
do it?...
Thanks
_________________________________________________________________
Rejoignez le plus grand service de messagerie au monde avec MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com/fr
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 10:30:05 -0600
Subject: Cable Advice
Carlos,
The easiest and cheapest thing to try first is just greasing the cable. You
can detach the cable at the gauge and pull it out of the cover. Use some
moly grease mixed with just enough 20W50 to make it a little runnier, or
a good commercial cable lube like what you can find at Pep Boys, Auto Zone,
etc. Over the years I've seen lots of folks send their gauges off for
an overhaul only to have the same symptoms when the gauge was refitted,
all caused by a bad cable. Of course, if greasing doesn't work you will
need to go further, but it's a good first step and often the real fix.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
>
> Hey Listers,
>
> All this talk about speedo cables has me wondering. On the last drive
> before putting the car away for the season, I noticed that my Tach was
> acting up. In that, the needle would seem to stick at about 2500 RPMs,
jump
> around slowly, then settle back down and sticking again. Just another
thing
> to add to the late winter / early spring project list. Any thoughts or
> suggestions on what to check for first? All suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Happy New Healey Year,
> Carlos Cruz
> '60 BN7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:21:37 -0600
Subject: Re: AH MK3 Bodyshell
Why not start with a Jule unit. Last ad that I read said $6,500.plus
shipping ,taxes ,duties. Comes with frame and inner body panels.
You can have it epoxy primed and sealed if you want. All you need is a
donor car . Why not start with all fresh metal and add the parts you
have.
Jule Enterprises
Here is their number 905/854-3555 or fax 905/854-3554
See there add in the Healey Marque Magazine.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Raffault <raffault1@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: AH MK3 Bodyshell
>
> I try to find an used complet bodyshell, BJ8 1965-1967, could you help me
to
> do it?...
> Thanks
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:09:20 -0600
Subject: "Swordfish"---No LBC content
Anyone know what kind of car John Travolta drove in the movie
"Swordfish"? Pretty neat looking car but a terrible movie. Well, a
couple parts were good but not really worth the admission price--well,
maybe they were after all. Anyhow, don't go see the movie if you
haven't already seen it.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:32:34 -0600
Subject: Re: "Swordfish"---
Larry Dickstein wrote:
> Anyone know what kind of car John Travolta drove in the movie
> "Swordfish"?
Just got the answer! Aren't college kids neat? It's a TVR so I guess the list
police might be happy since its a LBC (kinda, I guess)
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 10:42:16 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: BN-1 windscreen seal
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 12:03:41 -0500
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: BN-1 windscreen seal
Roger Moment wrote:
>I found the fit to be perfect on the
>right side of my car, but some buckling remained on the left, even though the
>seal is identical in shape left to right.
Michael Oritt responded:
>Roger--according to both Martin MacGregor himself and a straightedge the seal
>that he supplies has no curve whatsoever--he told me that he gets it in rolls
>and cuts lengths off. However, he insisted that if the seal is pushed into
>the channel inch by inch rather than slid thru it from one side to the
>other--as I did it--that it would conform to the curve of the body.
So Roger, did you slide the seal in from the side?
If so, do you recall which side?
My guess is that the pressure from pushing in from
the side causes the wrinkling on one end. But would
it be the far end, or the end you start at? I don't
know. Maybe pushing the seal in too far, then moving
it back into position would equalize the pressure and
let the seal sit unstressed. Which may be what pushing
it into the channel (like pushing the locking rubber
into a replacement screen window channel) would also
accomplish.
My original seal has no wrinkles, but it does have
splits, cracks, and missing pieces. And it is as hard
as a rock.
Peace and Love,
Kent McLean
'56 BN2
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:37:13 -0500
Subject: Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
Gang:
I've received two viruses (viri?) through this list. One came from Michael
Salter, which may have come directly, and the other came from midgets.scr.
The virus from Michael Salter was the w32.badtrans.b@mm virus
The virus from Midgets was the w95.hybris.worm.
The only way I found them was through an update from Norton Antivirus.
Am I the only one catching this? Or, was this already discussed in those
emails I deleted? Either way, this isn't coming from an attachment, but
rather from the emails themselves.
Is our list corrupted?
Bummer
Ryan
BJ7
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:19:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
Viruses DON'T come from the list. They come from list users doing a REPLY
ALL when they answer a query. If everyone just replied to the list itself,
this would NEVER happen.
bk
---------------------------------------------
At 10:37 AM 12/29/2001, you wrote:
>Gang:
>
>I've received two viruses (viri?) through this list. One came from Michael
>Salter, which may have come directly, and the other came from midgets.scr.
>
>The virus from Michael Salter was the w32.badtrans.b@mm virus
>The virus from Midgets was the w95.hybris.worm.
>
>The only way I found them was through an update from Norton Antivirus.
>
>Am I the only one catching this? Or, was this already discussed in those
>emails I deleted? Either way, this isn't coming from an attachment, but
>rather from the emails themselves.
>
>Is our list corrupted?
>
>Bummer
>
>Ryan
>BJ7
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 14:27:46 EST
Subject: Virus Ouch! How not to...
Bill,
Would you mind repeating that a little louder so some of our hearing impaired
members might be able to hear it.
Now, how do we do this? One way is to hit reply all and erase all the
address except healeys@autox.team.net!
As a gentle reminder, always check with one of the Virus hoax pages before
doing anything like erasing files or sending blanket warnings out!
Thanks, Happy New Year,
Richard
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:52:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus Ouch! How not to...
Sorry for the shouting Richard. I have an address book entry for the list,
so I just erase everything in the TO: field when I reply and enter "healeys".
For all the people unfortunate enough to use Outlook or Outlook Express,
there are some things you can do to help protect yourself. One of the
easiest is to just turn off preview mode. This is often enough to trigger a
virus.
bk
-----------------------------
At 11:27 AM 12/29/2001, you wrote:
>Bill,
>
>Would you mind repeating that a little louder so some of our hearing impaired
>members might be able to hear it.
>
>Now, how do we do this? One way is to hit reply all and erase all the
>address except healeys@autox.team.net!
>
>As a gentle reminder, always check with one of the Virus hoax pages before
>doing anything like erasing files or sending blanket warnings out!
>
>Thanks, Happy New Year,
>Richard
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:52:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
Hi Bill,
This is all great advise, thanks. But most of us are either " old car
"oriented or masters of other trades. Computers isn't exactly one of my
"masters" yet ,but I sure can follow a good lead. If you could make a
suggestion as to how to find the "preview" on and off section that would
help. I know mine is already set correctly because I remember stumbling
across that in my searching around a year or so a go , but don't ask me to
find it again right away, not a clue.
Thanks,,,, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:55:28 -0500
Subject: RE: Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
Strange about the w32badtrans.b@mm virus. I have Norton 2002 with on
line updates. I have never seen a warning that Norton had detected a
virus since a bout with one of the nimda viruses about 6 months back.
My local computer expert (son) says there is a possibility that a virus
can be passed on by a server.
Any virus gurus who can explain. I had presumed that having Norton on
line update made my system very safe as if scans for viri on outgoing
mail and updates very regularly.
Regards,
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Gang:
I've received two viruses (viri?) through this list. One came from
Michael
Salter, which may have come directly, and the other came from
midgets.scr.
The virus from Michael Salter was the w32.badtrans.b@mm virus
The virus from Midgets was the w95.hybris.worm.
The only way I found them was through an update from Norton Antivirus.
Am I the only one catching this? Or, was this already discussed in those
emails I deleted? Either way, this isn't coming from an attachment, but
rather from the emails themselves.
Is our list corrupted?
Bummer
Ryan
BJ7
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:04:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: test
Sorry folks, new to computers, just looking to see if this works, thanks.
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 16:14:18 -0500
Subject: Re:Battery
Hi,
I need a battery for a BN4 and wondered what is the closest to original,
commercially available one at a reasonable price. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:16:26 -0700
Subject: Water pump
I just received and installed a new water pump from Moss. It does not have
nor did the one I replaced have a lubricating plug as described in the
manuals. Do they need lubrication in some form?
Sid 65BJ8 Thanks
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 14:22:28 -0800
Subject: Outlook info, was Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
OK, if you are using Outlook Express, then go to the VIEW menu and choose
Layout. At the bottom of the dialog box, uncheck the box that says Show
preview pane. Click OK.
I don't have a machine running OL 98 at the moment, so I'm not sure where
that setting is. If someone really needs it let me know off list and I'll
install a copy to see.
In Outlook 2000 and 2002 (XP), the Preview Pane and AutoPreview options are
right on the View menu. Turning them both off will keep Outlook from
automatically launching most embedded Visual Basic (VB) scripts and stuff
disguised as a screen saver (.scr) or .pif file.
Microsoft made a change in OL 2002/XP to help stop some of the problems of
their weak security model, so now file types with many different extensions
(the stuff after the dot (.)) are disallowed as attachments. This doesn't
mean it's immune to viruses, as sometimes people name the files with two
extensions (i.e. yourfile.pif.scr), and the system only recognizes one. Or
if someone sends you an executable file with a .txt extension so OL 2002/XP
will accept it, and then tells you to rename it to .exe, you're still
vulnerable. Doh!
Remember, these steps will do NOTHING to protect you if you choose to open
the attachment. Your own vigilance is the biggest safety net you have. If
you weren't expecting a note with an attachment from someone, especially
someone who's name you don't recognize, don't open it. And even if it is
from someone you know, try saving the attachment to disk first, then scan
it with your anti-virus software before assuming it's safe.
Hope that helps.
BK
---------------------
At 01:52 PM 12/29/2001, you wrote:
>Hi Bill,
> This is all great advise, thanks. But most of us are either " old car
>"oriented or masters of other trades. Computers isn't exactly one of my
>"masters" yet ,but I sure can follow a good lead. If you could make a
>suggestion as to how to find the "preview" on and off section that would
>help. I know mine is already set correctly because I remember stumbling
>across that in my searching around a year or so a go , but don't ask me to
>find it again right away, not a clue.
>
>Thanks,,,, Mark
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 17:44:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
Also, if a response is to an individual rather than the list, you can use
"Reply to Sender Only", unless it is felt the information may be of
interest to the list. This would, hopefully, reduce the chance of passing
along a virus and the number of times the delete option has to be used.
IMHO. Thanks and have a great New Year.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
On Sat, 29 Dec 2001 11:19:52 -0800 Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
writes:
>
> Viruses DON'T come from the list. They come from list users doing a
> REPLY
> ALL when they answer a query. If everyone just replied to the list
> itself,
> this would NEVER happen.
>
> bk
> ---------------------------------------------
> At 10:37 AM 12/29/2001, you wrote:
>
> >Gang:
> >
> >I've received two viruses (viri?) through this list. One came from
> Michael
> >Salter, which may have come directly, and the other came from
> midgets.scr.
> >
> >The virus from Michael Salter was the w32.badtrans.b@mm virus
> >The virus from Midgets was the w95.hybris.worm.
> >
> >The only way I found them was through an update from Norton
> Antivirus.
> >
> >Am I the only one catching this? Or, was this already discussed in
> those
> >emails I deleted? Either way, this isn't coming from an
> attachment, but
> >rather from the emails themselves.
> >
> >Is our list corrupted?
> >
> >Bummer
> >
> >Ryan
> >BJ7
>
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From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 17:33:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus Ouch! How not to...
Mr. Katz:
Ed says:
<<I have an address book entry for the list,
so I just erase everything in the TO: field when I reply and enter
"healeys".
>>
Try "hilite, copy, NEW mail, and Paste". Address to "heal.........". Done.
New mail can't pass anything UNLESS sender already has a prob<F>.
Regards.........
Suzie
'65 Sprite (Petunia)
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From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 00:39:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Outlook info, was Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
If you got the Norton Antivirus..(NAV)... set it up to scan your mails before
they enter your machine... It finds the virus No Prob. Had four attempts from
mails trying to infest my Outlook. Thanks to NAV I'm still healty.
BTW. my preview is ON.
E.Larssen 60BT7
> OK, if you are using Outlook Express, then go to the VIEW menu and choose
> Layout. At the bottom of the dialog box, uncheck the box that says Show
> preview pane. Click OK.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 18:54:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Water pump
Hi, Sid -
The pumps with no plug are permanently lubricated (until they wear out!). I
sent my original BJ8 pump (with plug) off to be rebuilt about 10 years ago
when there weren't any new pumps available that I could find. The one I got
back had no plug.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 5:16 PM
Subject: Water pump
>
> I just received and installed a new water pump from Moss. It does not
have
> nor did the one I replaced have a lubricating plug as described in the
> manuals. Do they need lubrication in some form?
> Sid 65BJ8 Thanks
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 21:15:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Laycock de Normanville Overdrive
Hi All; I recently was presented with an overdrive unit with front
and rear connections plus an input shaft. My problem is that I'm not
sure what vehicle it is for. It's not an A-Type, seems to be a D-type.
Therefore it's not for the Big Healey.
Serial number is: SN 25 / 61959 / 003701
Can anyone help me identify the unit? TIA --Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________
Send your holiday cheer with http://greetings.yahoo.ca
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 22:04:45 -0600
Subject: Thanks Bill Katz
Thanks for the follow up Bill.
Mark
Please note that I took your name out of the return to all.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Katz <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 4:22 PM
Subject: Outlook info, was Virus coming through the list - Ouch!
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 22:45:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus Ouch! How not to...
I, too, am not a 'master' of the computer. To make things worse, I had to
purchase a new computer and that meant a jump from W95 to WXP. I'm still in
the process of learning all the new screens, windows, and settings. But it
does have Norton pre-installed. (Note: The earlier (Byers) Badtrans virus
(sorry Steve. Just using your name for identification purposes) got so far
into my other computer that it couldn't even be restored to original
configuration with the recovery disk).
On 12/26, I had 2 alerts and one e-mail message from Norton. The e-mail
said that the virus program had "...deleted the following email message
because it was infected with a virus". There was no description of the
message (or the virus) in the text block. One alert stated that a message
with a virus was 'repaired'. The other stated that a message with a virus
could NOT be repaired. The file was infected with the W32 Badtrans virus.
I did a scan and no viruses were detected. I searched for the unrepairable
file and did not find it. None of the e-mails that made it to my Inbox had
attachments. It was all very confusing and I am still not clear as to all
that occured.
The recent responses on The List did not necessarily help therefore I am
seeking some clarification. There have been references to Reply All, Reply
All and erase all the addresses except (the Healey list), Reply to Sender
Only, enter "Healeys", address to "Heal........", etc. I am using IE6 and
OExpress6. My tool bar shows Create Mail, Reply, Reply All, and Forward. It
is my understanding that Create Mail will start a new message that requires
an address be entered. Reply creates a reply to the person who sent me the
message, Reply All creates a reply to the person who sent me the message and
to everyone else in the e-mail's recipient list, and Forward creates a new
message containing the entire text of the original message
ready for me to forward.
If I understand correctly from these and previous messages, if my computer
should become infected with a virus, that virus could replicate itself and
go out to all the INDIVIDUALS in my Address Book. If it sends itself to THE
LIST, it would be stopped by the List Server. However, there are situations
where a virus could be contained in the message and not an attachment.
As for what goes in the To: block, I believe that each of us determined what
this name would be when we entered The List's address in the Address Book
and typed it in the 'Display' block. One persons's "heal......." is another
person's "Healeys", or, in my case, when I type "h" in the 'To:' block,
"Healeys Mailing List" is automatically entered.
And, I fail to see how deleting the preview pane could have any bearing on
whether or not a virus gets into my computer. I think if it is in the
Inbox, it is in my computer and would be activated if I opened it (remember,
however, that the (Byers) Badtrans could initiate itself without the
attachment being opened).
Where am I wrong?
Len.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 23:44:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Virus Ouch! How not to...
Let me try to elucidate as best I can here Len. See comments in [ ] below.
At 10:45 PM 12/29/2001, Marge and/or Len wrote:
>I, too, am not a 'master' of the computer. To make things worse, I had to
>purchase a new computer and that meant a jump from W95 to WXP. I'm still in
>the process of learning all the new screens, windows, and settings. But it
>does have Norton pre-installed. (Note: The earlier (Byers) Badtrans virus
>(sorry Steve. Just using your name for identification purposes) got so far
>into my other computer that it couldn't even be restored to original
>configuration with the recovery disk).
[If you hate the XP default crayola color scheme, you can revert to the
older interface if you'd like. I personally think the new interface sucks
big time!]
>On 12/26, I had 2 alerts and one e-mail message from Norton. The e-mail
>said that the virus program had "...deleted the following email message
>because it was infected with a virus". There was no description of the
>message (or the virus) in the text block. One alert stated that a message
>with a virus was 'repaired'. The other stated that a message with a virus
>could NOT be repaired. The file was infected with the W32 Badtrans virus.
>I did a scan and no viruses were detected. I searched for the unrepairable
>file and did not find it. None of the e-mails that made it to my Inbox had
>attachments. It was all very confusing and I am still not clear as to all
>that occured.
[You need to check how Norton is configured. Some people like the "repair"
option, I personally don't trust it. As for why you couldn't find the file,
if Norton caught it in the temporary file before it got saved to disk and
deleted it, you won't find it anywhere. Some AV programs tightly integrate
into mail program, making more likely it can catch the virus before it
causes problems. (BTW, one downside of Norton, AFAIK, it still doesn't scan
zipped files)]
>The recent responses on The List did not necessarily help therefore I am
>seeking some clarification. There have been references to Reply All, Reply
>All and erase all the addresses except (the Healey list), Reply to Sender
>Only, enter "Healeys", address to "Heal........", etc. I am using IE6 and
>OExpress6. My tool bar shows Create Mail, Reply, Reply All, and Forward. It
>is my understanding that Create Mail will start a new message that requires
>an address be entered. Reply creates a reply to the person who sent me the
>message, Reply All creates a reply to the person who sent me the message and
>to everyone else in the e-mail's recipient list, and Forward creates a new
>message containing the entire text of the original message
>ready for me to forward.
[If you wish your reply to go to everyone on the list, then I'd say either
do a reply all and delete the "real" sender's name, or delete all entries
in the TO: field and enter the name you have in your address list. When you
do a normal reply all, you are sending two emails, one to the list, and one
to the originator of the message. In my opinion, the only reason to do this
is if you think they need to see the info faster than the list processes
it. However, a side benefit of replying to the list only is that you insure
you don't send an infected file to the originator.]
>If I understand correctly from these and previous messages, if my computer
>should become infected with a virus, that virus could replicate itself and
>go out to all the INDIVIDUALS in my Address Book. If it sends itself to THE
>LIST, it would be stopped by the List Server. However, there are situations
>where a virus could be contained in the message and not an attachment.
[99.5% correct. Even if you happened to send a message to the list with a
virus on it, that isn't the message that gets sent to everyone by the list
server. So anything you throw at the server doesn't matter, what comes out
will be clean.]
>As for what goes in the To: block, I believe that each of us determined what
>this name would be when we entered The List's address in the Address Book
>and typed it in the 'Display' block. One persons's "heal......." is another
>person's "Healeys", or, in my case, when I type "h" in the 'To:' block,
>"Healeys Mailing List" is automatically entered.
>
>And, I fail to see how deleting the preview pane could have any bearing on
>whether or not a virus gets into my computer. I think if it is in the
>Inbox, it is in my computer and would be activated if I opened it (remember,
>however, that the (Byers) Badtrans could initiate itself without the
>attachment being opened).
[The preview pane in effect is opening the email (but not the attachment)
for you. So if an infected email gets past your AV program, and you have
preview enabled, you can potentially cause it to launch the virus without
your knowledge. (Note to all who think an AV program negates this problem,
you have been warned.) The reason some viruses can trigger even if you
don't open the attachment is due to Outlook's "ability" to run script files.]
>Where am I wrong?
>
>Len.
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From "One.Proud.American" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 00:05:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: "Swordfish"---No LBC content
Larry -
That's a TVR - many of whom consider to be the
reincarnation of the big healey... and one of my
friends has three of them!
Cheers,
Alan
--- Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net> wrote:
>
> Anyone know what kind of car John Travolta drove in
> the movie
> "Swordfish"? Pretty neat looking car but a terrible
> movie. Well, a
> couple parts were good but not really worth the
> admission price--well,
> maybe they were after all. Anyhow, don't go see the
> movie if you
> haven't already seen it.
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 08:10:01 -0500
Subject: Fw: computer tip/virus thread
I received the following a few months ago on preventing the spread of
viruses. What do you Healey/computer folks think? I don't know?!
Warren
67 BJ8
>From: "Warren Dietz" <wandldietz@sceinet.com>
>To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Fw: computer tip
>Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 07:56:53 -0500
>
>
>Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 7:15 PM
>Subject: computer tip
>
>
> > Now idea if this would work.
> >
> > ***************************************************
> >
> > I learned a computer trick today that's really
> > ingenious in its
> > simplicity.
> >
> > As you may know, when/if a worm virus gets into your
> > computer it heads
> > straight for your email address book and sends itself
> > to everyone in
> > there,
> > thus infecting all your friends and associates. This
> > trick won't keep
> > the
> > virus from getting into your computer, but it will
> > stop it from using
> > your
> > address book to spread further, and it will alert you
> > to the fact that
> > the
> > worm has gotten into your system.
> >
> > Here's what you do: first, open your address book and
> > click on "new
> > contact"
> > just as you would do if you were adding a new friend
> > to your list of
> > email
> > addresses. In the window where you would type your
> > friend's first
> > name, type
> > in !000 (that's an exclamation mark followed by 3
> > zeros). In the
> > window
> > below where it prompts you to enter the new email
> > address, type in
> > WormAlert.
> > Then complete everything by clicking add, enter, ok,
> > etc.
> >
> > Now, here's what you've done and why it works: the
> > "name" !000 will be
> > placed
> > at the top of your address book as entry #1. This
> > will be where the
> > worm
> > will start in an effort to send itself to all your
> > friends. But when
> > it
> > tries to send itself to !000, it will be undeliverable
> > because of the
> > phony
> > email address you entered (WormAlert). If the first
> > attempt fails
> > (which it
> > will because of the phony address), the worm goes no
> > further and your
> > friends
> > will not be infected.
> >
> > Here's the second great advantage of this method: if
> > an email cannot be
> > delivered, you will be notified of this in your InBox
> > almost
> > immediately.
> > Hence, if you ever get an email telling you that an
> > email addressed to
> > WormAlert could not be delivered, you know right away
> > that you have the
> > worm
> > virus in your system. You can then take steps to get
> > rid of it!
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Tom Pitts
> > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > http://personals.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 09:06:16 -0500
Subject: Re: computer tip/virus thread
Warren -
This "tip" came up some time ago. I had my doubts that it would work, but I
followed the instructions anyway, using AAAAAAA instead of !000000. It
didn't make any difference to the "Byers" BadTrans virus. My address book
isn't very large, and doesn't have anybody from the list in it. BadTrans
searched SENT mail and sent itself to those people.
Steve "BadTrans" Byers
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 8:10 AM
Subject: Fw: computer tip/virus thread
>
> I received the following a few months ago on preventing the spread of
> viruses. What do you Healey/computer folks think? I don't know?!
> Warren
> 67 BJ8
>
> >From: "Warren Dietz" <wandldietz@sceinet.com>
> >To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Fw: computer tip
> >Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 07:56:53 -0500
> >
> >
> >Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 7:15 PM
> >Subject: computer tip
> >
> >
> > > Now idea if this would work.
> > >
> > > ***************************************************
> > >
> > > I learned a computer trick today that's really
> > > ingenious in its
> > > simplicity.
> > >
> > > As you may know, when/if a worm virus gets into your
> > > computer it heads
> > > straight for your email address book and sends itself
> > > to everyone in
> > > there,
> > > thus infecting all your friends and associates. This
> > > trick won't keep
> > > the
> > > virus from getting into your computer, but it will
> > > stop it from using
> > > your
> > > address book to spread further, and it will alert you
> > > to the fact that
> > > the
> > > worm has gotten into your system.
> > >
> > > Here's what you do: first, open your address book and
> > > click on "new
> > > contact"
> > > just as you would do if you were adding a new friend
> > > to your list of
> > > email
> > > addresses. In the window where you would type your
> > > friend's first
> > > name, type
> > > in !000 (that's an exclamation mark followed by 3
> > > zeros). In the
> > > window
> > > below where it prompts you to enter the new email
> > > address, type in
> > > WormAlert.
> > > Then complete everything by clicking add, enter, ok,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > Now, here's what you've done and why it works: the
> > > "name" !000 will be
> > > placed
> > > at the top of your address book as entry #1. This
> > > will be where the
> > > worm
> > > will start in an effort to send itself to all your
> > > friends. But when
> > > it
> > > tries to send itself to !000, it will be undeliverable
> > > because of the
> > > phony
> > > email address you entered (WormAlert). If the first
> > > attempt fails
> > > (which it
> > > will because of the phony address), the worm goes no
> > > further and your
> > > friends
> > > will not be infected.
> > >
> > > Here's the second great advantage of this method: if
> > > an email cannot be
> > > delivered, you will be notified of this in your InBox
> > > almost
> > > immediately.
> > > Hence, if you ever get an email telling you that an
> > > email addressed to
> > > WormAlert could not be delivered, you know right away
> > > that you have the
> > > worm
> > > virus in your system. You can then take steps to get
> > > rid of it!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Tom Pitts
> > > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > > http://personals.yahoo.com
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 11:28:09 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
Michael,
I found this source while looking into it previously:
http://www.speedometershop.com/rep-pag.htm
I haven't purchased one, though, so I don't have any experience with them.
Happy Healeydays,
Rick
In a message dated 12/28/01 11:05:51 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
<<Another option is to have a ratio adapter made,
anyone have a resources on this?
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (awaiting gearset)
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 12:20:27 -0500
Subject: Virus Overrides
I asked a friend of mine to check out the !000 prevention theory - Urban
Legend.
His comment was that the 'infected' mail will still go out, you'll just
get failure notifications from the 'bad addresses'.
Not being that computer literate myself, I have to think that no matter
what 'fix' is conceived, there is someone out there trying to circumvent it.
And, a lot of these 'anti-virus experts' started out as hackers themselves!
Free Kevin Mitnick!!
Charley
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 12:31:00 EST
Subject: Re: Virus Overrides
In a message dated 12/30/01 9:57:56, cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
<<
I asked a friend of mine to check out the !000 prevention theory - Urban
Legend.
His comment was that the 'infected' mail will still go out, you'll just
get failure notifications from the 'bad addresses'.
Not being that computer literate myself, I have to think that no matter
what 'fix' is conceived, there is someone out there trying to circumvent it.
And, a lot of these 'anti-virus experts' started out as hackers themselves!
Free Kevin Mitnick!!
Charley >>
The only virus override that works is to get a Mac.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 09:37:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: computer tip/virus thread
That has been circulating for a long time Warren. Unfortunately it's not
effective against most new viri. The part about getting an undeliverable is
true, but by then you've already probably infected a lot of people :-(
-----------
At 05:10 AM 12/30/2001, you wrote:
>I received the following a few months ago on preventing the spread of
>viruses. What do you Healey/computer folks think? I don't know?!
>Warren
>67 BJ8
>
> >From: "Warren Dietz" <wandldietz@sceinet.com>
> >To: "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Fw: computer tip
> >Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 07:56:53 -0500
> >
> >
> >Sent: Monday, October 22, 2001 7:15 PM
> >Subject: computer tip
> >
> >
> > > Now idea if this would work.
> > >
> > > ***************************************************
> > >
> > > I learned a computer trick today that's really
> > > ingenious in its
> > > simplicity.
> > >
> > > As you may know, when/if a worm virus gets into your
> > > computer it heads
> > > straight for your email address book and sends itself
> > > to everyone in
> > > there,
> > > thus infecting all your friends and associates. This
> > > trick won't keep
> > > the
> > > virus from getting into your computer, but it will
> > > stop it from using
> > > your
> > > address book to spread further, and it will alert you
> > > to the fact that
> > > the
> > > worm has gotten into your system.
> > >
> > > Here's what you do: first, open your address book and
> > > click on "new
> > > contact"
> > > just as you would do if you were adding a new friend
> > > to your list of
> > > email
> > > addresses. In the window where you would type your
> > > friend's first
> > > name, type
> > > in !000 (that's an exclamation mark followed by 3
> > > zeros). In the
> > > window
> > > below where it prompts you to enter the new email
> > > address, type in
> > > WormAlert.
> > > Then complete everything by clicking add, enter, ok,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > Now, here's what you've done and why it works: the
> > > "name" !000 will be
> > > placed
> > > at the top of your address book as entry #1. This
> > > will be where the
> > > worm
> > > will start in an effort to send itself to all your
> > > friends. But when
> > > it
> > > tries to send itself to !000, it will be undeliverable
> > > because of the
> > > phony
> > > email address you entered (WormAlert). If the first
> > > attempt fails
> > > (which it
> > > will because of the phony address), the worm goes no
> > > further and your
> > > friends
> > > will not be infected.
> > >
> > > Here's the second great advantage of this method: if
> > > an email cannot be
> > > delivered, you will be notified of this in your InBox
> > > almost
> > > immediately.
> > > Hence, if you ever get an email telling you that an
> > > email addressed to
> > > WormAlert could not be delivered, you know right away
> > > that you have the
> > > worm
> > > virus in your system. You can then take steps to get
> > > rid of it!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Tom Pitts
> > > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > > http://personals.yahoo.com
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 14:32:42 EST
Subject: Oil Pressure Hose
I have TWO restored oil pressure hoses to sell. These have the original
fittings -- large brass on one end and smaller steel on the other -- and the
original yellow Smiths Petro-flex bands, still legible. All of these parts
have been rescued and cleaned from original hoses. The swaged brass fittings
have the original "bell" shape, with skirt.
The hose material is new and the same diameter as the original with wire
braiding. However, the only difference between these hoses and original ones
is that the braid wire is stainless steel, instead of zinc plated.
These hoses work on all big Healeys, BN1 - BJ8.
Price is $30 each, plus postage. Please contact me directly.
I also can restore your old original hose, reusing your fittings and yellow
band.
Roger Moment
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 12:08:48 -0800
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets / United Speedo
I have used them for over 30 years for all my speedo and
gauge needs without one problem.
They have a inground chasses dyno to calibrate speed and odometer.
Not cheap, but good reliable work.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <dougi@shaw.ca>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Sets
>
> Michael,
>
> I found this source while looking into it previously:
>
> http://www.speedometershop.com/rep-pag.htm
>
> I haven't purchased one, though, so I don't have any experience with them.
>
> Happy Healeydays,
>
> Rick
> In a message dated 12/28/01 11:05:51 AM, Awgertoo@aol.com writes:
>
> <<Another option is to have a ratio adapter made,
> anyone have a resources on this?
>
> Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans (awaiting gearset)
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma/healeys
> /// Send list postings to healeys@autox.team.net
> /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be
sent.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 16:53:25 -0500
Subject: Look at car for me
Happy Healeydays Listers!
Is there anyone out there who would be able and willing to look at a car for
me in Oklahoma City? I would appreciate it mucho.
Please contact me off list.
Keith Pennell
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:07:24 -0500
Subject: Water Temp
When I start up my BJ8 from cold the water temp comes up slowly to about
210 degrees and then ABRUPTLY goes to 190 degrees(which I know is correct)
and stays there for the remainder of the drive. Being new to Healeys, is
this proper behavior of it's thermostat. My concern is that the thermostat
is not opening and closing as it should or do I just have a cooling/ gauge
problem. Additionally, which type of thermostat is correct? Any help is
appreciated.
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 09:10:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Need Shelley CA311 Jack Handle
I have a pot-style, ratchet Shelley CA311 jack for my BJ8; but it's missing the
"handle". Can
anyone on the list tell me if the correct handle has any identifying markings
or stampings so that
I'll know the real McCoy should I ever come across one? Does anyone have an
extra that they
would like to part with? -Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
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From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 12:54:05 EST
Subject: Re: Water pump
The pumps with the press on pulleys had permanently greased bearings so the
grease plug was redundant. Bill
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:07:20 +0000
Subject: Happy New Year
Dear Listers,
thanks very much for all of your help and advice during the past year. I
would just like to take this chance to wish all of you a very happy New
Year. May it be better for all of us and may we never have to go through
events like September 11th again.
Happy New Year,
Peter Dzwig
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:14:45 EST
Subject: Looking for Daniel Tiedge
Sorry to bomb the lists...maybe someone knows Daniel Tiedge from Oakton, Va.
If so please either email me off list or tell DAniel to contact me directly
regarding his request for Concours guidlines. He sent me the check but
didn't indicate which guidelines he wants...Sprites or Big Healeys. In any
event...Happy New Year to All.
george marinos
Sprite HAN6-MKII
glen rock, nj
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:46:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Shelley jack handle
For everyone's information, here is my reply to John's posting:
I have an original handle for your jack. I cannot sell it to you, as
it is already sold to a buddy of mine.
I can give you the exact specs. It 's fairly low tech, so it can be
duplicated on a lathe:
1/2" diameter steel bar stock. 18" inches long. It has a 1/16" 45
degree chamfer one one end. When you look closer at it, though, it
reveals a dip in the chamfer. It is an S shape made by turning tools
when the rod was cut off. In other words the first cut of the tool on
the lathe goes in quickly, then back out like so: -- \_ the final
diameter is 7/16" All this happens in less than a 1/16". The flat
end has vertical grind marks.
The opposite side is cut off clean. no chamfer, but a 3/16 center
protrusion which is ground vertically like the other end. This seems
to have been material cut off after the first 5/16 was lathed down.
This part bears concentric markings to that effect. The protrusion is
hardly measurable, but you can see it because the eye picks up the
difference between grinding marks and concentric lathe marks. It
would look like this from the end: (O)
The entire bar is silver zinc plated. Mine being NOS, has taped
numbers AHH 5987 on it.
Alain Giguere
BN7 bits
Now If any listers can help me, I am looking for a handle for my
jack, a Shelley LJ 21 for an early 3000. This jack has a two part
handle. If anyone has an authentic one, I would like to borrow one to
make a copy. Anyone out there willing to do that I would be eternally
grateful.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:00:34 EST
Subject: battery charger
Is there anything I should know out of the ordinary when charging my battery?
Especially with the positive ground? How about accepting a jump start from
another car?
Thanks. Happy New Year!
Bill Eggert
Annapolis, MD
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:40:47 -0600
Subject: Re: battery charger
COPPIFAN@aol.com wrote:
> Is there anything I should know out of the ordinary when charging my battery?
> Especially with the positive ground? How about accepting a jump start from
> another car?
Same stuff, Bill. + to + and - to -. Don't let the bumpers touch in this
process and be aware of frozen batteries.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:30:06 -0500
Subject: Sightings
Just saw a gorgeous Healey Blue over White BJ8(?) on a Wells fargo commercial
while watching the Sun bowl. Anyone know who belongs to it?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 15:14:25 -0800
Subject: Front shroud repair
I am continuing to disassemble my 61 BT-7 for restoration. While clearing
out the engine compartment, I noticed a large "hole" in the top, left
portion of my front shroud. The old damage continues down to the bottom left
(near the fresh air intake) The damage was filled with bondo. From the
outside it looks decent.
I am trying to figure out what the best way to repair this hole and previous
damage. It looks as if the Moss repair panel (part # 857-595) may fix the
damaged area. However, I may need the upper repair panel (part #857-575)
also.
My question is....would it be cost effective to make this repair with the
mentioned repair parts and have a body shop do the work. Or should I shop
for a complete front shroud (new/used)? Thanks.
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:13:09 -0800
Subject: Final Healey Outing of 2001
Just not to be outdone by those of you in warmer climates I got out our BT7
'62 Tri-carb and toured the North Oregon Coast (USA) today during a moment
of sunshine (55 degrees). Great way to close out 2001.
Happy New Year.
Bob
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From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 20:23:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Final Healey Outing of 2001
Robert Wiley wrote:
> Just not to be outdone by those of you in warmer climates I got out our BT7
> '62 Tri-carb and toured the North Oregon Coast (USA) today during a moment
> of sunshine (55 degrees). Great way to close out 2001.
>
> Happy New Year.
>
> Bob
>
Bob
After reading about your "tour" I just couldn't resist firing up my 62 BT7
Tri-carb and taking a 75 mile round-trip tour of the Minnesota-Wisconsin bluff
country. The high temperature here in the Twin Cities region today was about
8F, but on the other hand it was relatively windless and there wasn't a cloud in
the sky. (There were a few times when I wished my heater was installed in the
Healey rather than stored in a cardboard box in my garage ;>) )
Now I'm sitting in front of my fireplace and getting ready to bring in the New
Year with lobsters and champagne.
Happy New Year to all
DickB
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:22:42 -0600
Subject: Upholstery Video
Hi Lawrie,
I was watching your Healey upholstery video and noticed that you used
a vinyl seat cover kit for the seats and you were able to get a lot of
stretch when needed because it was vinyl. Can you tell me if the Moss
leather kits are as manageable and as forgiving as the vinyl ones appeared
to be in the video? There were a
few areas where it was necessary to get a good stretch to achieve the
proper fit.
And also is there any over the counter adhesive on the market now a
days that you would recommend that I can find locally or is Moss the only
way to go? I'm looking for something to use for the entire car as well as
the seats. Brush on or spray on?
Happy New Year, Mark
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 22:46:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Upholstery Video
Ok, thanks John. Now lets see where should I file this one. Adhesives? no.
Upholstery? no. Ah, there we go, Elephant!
Thanks, Mark
> Local upholstery shops or local supply shops can supply you with good
glue. I
> used a brand called " Rubitex", but I am sure the same stuff exists
elsewhere.
> It is a basic formulae. Elephant snot.!
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 23:36:58 -0500
Subject: Adhesives
Not having experience with elephant snot, I would strongly recommend
gorilla snot as an alternative, that is, if snot is required.
Charley
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 23:40:44 -0500
Subject: First Healey Outing of 2002
Hardtop goes on the 100 tomorrow morning, after addressing headache,
heater is already installed and we'll see where we end up.
Hope everyone on the list, and all your friends and family, has a great
new year!!
Charley
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