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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 08:00:41 -0700
Subject: Fw: Senior Citizens
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> Senior citizens are constantly being criticized for every conceivable
deficiency of the modern world, real or imaginary.
>
> We know we take responsibility for all we have done and do not blame
others. BUT, upon reflection, we would like to point out that it was NOT the
senior citizens who took:
>
> The melody out of music,
> The pride out of appearance,
> The romance out of love,
> The commitment out of marriage,
> The responsibility out of parenthood,
> The togetherness out of the family,
> The learning out of education,
> The service out of patriotism,
> The religion out of school,
> The Golden Rule from rulers,
> The nativity scene out of cities,
> The civility out of behavior,
> The refinement out of language,
> The dedication out of employment,
> The prudence out of spending, or
> The ambition out of achievement.
>
> And we certainly are NOT the ones who eliminated patience and tolerance
from personal relationships and interactions with others!!
>
> Does anyone under the age of 50 know the lyrics to the "Star Spangled
Banner"? Just look at those old folks with tears in their eyes and pride in
their hearts as they stand at attention with their hands over their hearts
singing every word!
>
> And, unless many of our younger generation learn to count in the absence
of computers and calculators, they will be back to counting on fingers and
toes.
>
> Remember... Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what
the heck happened!
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From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 09:58:51 -0500
Subject: FW: HVH Race Car Show flyer (Hershey Hillclimb)
'73 J-H 13825
Don Pritchard
-----Original Message-----
From: scarpenter@ofc.com [mailto:scarpenter@ofc.com]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 10:55 AM
To: svvscc@usa.net
Subject: HVH Race Car Show flyer
Hi All,
Here's the Race Car Show flyer and registration. If you just want tickets
for the Saturday night Reception (at the Hershey Lodge & Convention Center),
please use this registration form for your ticket order. This attachment
should also be posted on our website later this week. Reception ticket
orders must be received by the Registrars no later than April 10th.
If you don't have Adobe Acrobat Reader, you can find the download icon on
the SVVSCC.org website, Membership Application page. It's FREE !! Please
do that, and then you can get all your info either thru the email or
download it from www.SVVSCC.org.
(See attached file: HVH Racecar Show form.pdf)
thanks,
Stan Carpenter
HVH PR Chairman
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From i.e.inc at netwide.net (Richard Smith)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 09:59:12 -0800
Subject: FW: HVH Race Car Show flyer (Hershey Hillclimb)
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From i.e.inc at netwide.net (Richard Smith)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 10:01:49 -0800
Subject: fast
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 10:06:48 -0600
Subject: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 17:22:36 +0000
Subject: Re: Fw: Senior Citizens
Seriously. I've worked with kids from gang bangers to
very high functioning learners for over 18 years, K-12
and I can tell you most kids are doing just fine thank
you. The media needs to find a problem to report, or
create one to report.
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> Probably not appropriate for this forum, but then I didn't invent this
> politically correct nonsense....
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
>
>
> > Senior citizens are constantly being criticized for every conceivable
> deficiency of the modern world, real or imaginary.
> >
> > We know we take responsibility for all we have done and do not blame
> others. BUT, upon reflection, we would like to point out that it was NOT the
> senior citizens who took:
> >
> > The melody out of music,
> > The pride out of appearance,
> > The romance out of love,
> > The commitment out of marriage,
> > The responsibility out of parenthood,
> > The togetherness out of the family,
> > The learning out of education,
> > The service out of patriotism,
> > The religion out of school,
> > The Golden Rule from rulers,
> > The nativity scene out of cities,
> > The civility out of behavior,
> > The refinement out of language,
> > The dedication out of employment,
> > The prudence out of spending, or
> > The ambition out of achievement.
> >
> > And we certainly are NOT the ones who eliminated patience and tolerance
> from personal relationships and interactions with others!!
> >
> > Does anyone under the age of 50 know the lyrics to the "Star Spangled
> Banner"? Just look at those old folks with tears in their eyes and pride in
> their hearts as they stand at attention with their hands over their hearts
> singing every word!
> >
> > And, unless many of our younger generation learn to count in the absence
> of computers and calculators, they will be back to counting on fingers and
> toes.
> >
> > Remember... Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what
> the heck happened!
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 09:35:16 -0800
Subject: Bill Wood
I know Bill is a GOOD GUY, but he had been warned of the viruses and
did nothing about it.
I felt he needed a loud and rude awakening, to protect others.
Kirk Kvam :-)
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From deemi at juno.com
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 12:46:45 -0500
Subject: Healey parts collection
I am an old collector of healey parts, and bought out many of the yards
in VA of parts over the years, ending up with a bunch of engines and rear
axles left over at this point in time.
I am hoping to get them to Healey owners, reasonable offers not refused.
I am now living in Maine, and my old home/garage and shed in
Mechanicsville, VA is full of these items.
For those of you looking for rear axles with lower mileage, this is it.
Many of these cars went into the yards in the 60's and 70's, I managed to
save many engines and rears from the scrapper of Lawhorns and two other
yards.
I have about 14 engines, most long blocks, some with most of the carbs.
ICH early 100-6
ICH 35359
ICH 45134
ICH 45145
26C R 50472 early 100-6
26DRUH53882 late 100-6
MKI early 3000
29D no plate
29D RU 6656
29D RU 20578
29D RU 24781
29F RU H 1908 BJ7MKII
29K RUH 4583
29K RU 5479 MKIII
29K RU 9947 MKIII
one more cant see plate
I have about 25 rear axles, most complete with brake drums, some even
with splines.
I also have a bunch of 100-4 frames that are rusty, but rolling, most
without engine/transmission
For those of you that are members of TACH, this is the same garage you
visited in the early 90's.
you can call me at 207 866-3048 in Maine or email me at deemi@juno.com
Hope these find a good home.
Bob Bowie in Maine
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 10:17:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Norwegian Scenes
<<
http://www.sportsvogn.no/images/2001/helaarsklubben/
>>
Richard,
Very nice pictures, but tell me something: Do the
Norwegians also drive their sports cars in the
Norwegian WINTER?
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 14:03:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Bill Wood
> John,
>
> Put this on the list.
>
> Kirk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
> To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 10:14 AM
> Subject: Re: Bill Wood
>
>
> > I agree. In fact, I just got two virus attempts from him so he is still
> > trying to infect the world. Eother he knows nothing about computers or
he
> is
> > just vicious.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 12:35 PM
> > Subject: Bill Wood
> >
> >
> > > To all
> > >
> > >
> > > I know Bill is a GOOD GUY, but he had been warned of the viruses and
> > > did nothing about it.
> > >
> > > I felt he needed a loud and rude awakening, to protect others.
> > >
> > > Kirk Kvam :-)
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 11:28:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Auction Commissions
I'm certainly no expert, but I gather that the
Barrett-Jackson Auction attracts the big spenders for
cars in the Austin-Healey's niche, and thus it is THE
venue for auctioning a big Healey and therefore
results and commissions may not be typical.
Anyway, at Barrett-Jackson the buyer pays an 8 percent
commission, and the seller also pays an 8 percent
commission PLUS an $800 fee for just offering the car,
if it is offered at "no reserve." Thus, when you hear
of a big Healey selling for, say, $50,000 at this
auction, the buyer is actually paying $54,000, and the
seller is actually collecting $45,200. The organizers
pocket the $8,800 difference.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 14:45:13 -0500
Subject: hi
I have a Macintosh so your viruses don't affect me.
Can you fill me in what the situation is regarding your computer, if you
know?
Needless to say the list is upset and can't hear your side because of a
fear of opening your email.
Thanks,
Bob Denton
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 16:23:16 EST
Subject: FW: My Austin Healey 3000
Subj: My Austin Healey 3000
From: <A HREF="mailto:mrnice3000@hotmail.com";>mrnice3000@hotmail.com</A>
Hi,
My name is Brian Davies. I have a 1961 3000 that I bought in 1975.
At that time it was red, had disc wheels, & had a Mk 2 badge & grill. On
looking into the chassis # during a long restoration, I began to realize
that it could be a Mk1. I have used Jim Werner's excellent site for some
time. I have noticed the reference to AH Police cars but never read the
article. This week I read it & found it very interesting as mine is
registered 117 HTT, one of the 2 cars referred to. This confirms that it is
a Mk1. I didn't know of this history because it is not referred to in the
original registration document. Ironic that I find out about it on an
American web site!!. I have rebuilt it with new alloy panels & wire wheels.
I rebuilt the engine installing a 'PIPER' Blueprint Fast Road cam that makes
it very long-legged & it revs well. I have fitted a PIPER Fast Road cam to
my MG B. Vastly better that the original!
Best Regards,
Brian
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:22:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Auction Commissions
(However, I would not do this too often because I might get suspicious of
myself!)
Friday afternoon and feeling silly. :)
Keith Pennell
> A few weeks ago I seem to recall that someone asked
> the question of commission fees for cars sold at
> auction. I don't recall seeing any response and so I
> thought you might be interested in knowing what I
> learned last night talking with one of those who
> regularly offers a big Healey at the Barrett-Jackson
> Auction in January in Scottsdale, Arizona each year.
>
> I'm certainly no expert, but I gather that the
> Barrett-Jackson Auction attracts the big spenders for
> cars in the Austin-Healey's niche, and thus it is THE
> venue for auctioning a big Healey and therefore
> results and commissions may not be typical.
>
> Anyway, at Barrett-Jackson the buyer pays an 8 percent
> commission, and the seller also pays an 8 percent
> commission PLUS an $800 fee for just offering the car,
> if it is offered at "no reserve." Thus, when you hear
> of a big Healey selling for, say, $50,000 at this
> auction, the buyer is actually paying $54,000, and the
> seller is actually collecting $45,200. The organizers
> pocket the $8,800 difference.
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
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From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 16:32:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Auction Commissions
Keith Pennell wrote:
> So, Reid let me see if I understand this. If I sold my car to myself for
> say $20000, then I would have to pay me to $2400 to sell it and another
> $1600 to buy it? Then I could pocket a hefty $4000 for the deal! Hey!
> That would be very good money for very little work!
>
> (However, I would not do this too often because I might get suspicious of
> myself!)
>
> Friday afternoon and feeling silly. :)
> Keith Pennell
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 17:04:08 EST
Subject: Re: Auction Commissions
You just figured out how Enron did so well .......... for awhile...
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 16:05:58 -0600
Subject: Towing A Healey
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 19:02:01 -0800
Subject: solf top frame
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 19:04:46 EST
Subject: Re: solf top frame
*******
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 17:20:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 8:00 AM
Subject: Fw: Senior Citizens
> Probably not appropriate for this forum, but then I didn't invent this
> politically correct nonsense....
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
>
>
> > Senior citizens are constantly being criticized for every conceivable
> deficiency of the modern world, real or imaginary.
> >
> > We know we take responsibility for all we have done and do not blame
> others. BUT, upon reflection, we would like to point out that it was NOT
the
> senior citizens who took:
> >
> > The melody out of music,
> > The pride out of appearance,
> > The romance out of love,
> > The commitment out of marriage,
> > The responsibility out of parenthood,
> > The togetherness out of the family,
> > The learning out of education,
> > The service out of patriotism,
> > The religion out of school,
> > The Golden Rule from rulers,
> > The nativity scene out of cities,
> > The civility out of behavior,
> > The refinement out of language,
> > The dedication out of employment,
> > The prudence out of spending, or
> > The ambition out of achievement.
> >
> > And we certainly are NOT the ones who eliminated patience and tolerance
> from personal relationships and interactions with others!!
> >
> > Does anyone under the age of 50 know the lyrics to the "Star Spangled
> Banner"? Just look at those old folks with tears in their eyes and pride
in
> their hearts as they stand at attention with their hands over their hearts
> singing every word!
> >
> > And, unless many of our younger generation learn to count in the absence
> of computers and calculators, they will be back to counting on fingers and
> toes.
> >
> > Remember... Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what
> the heck happened!
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 21:11:05 EST
Subject: Re: oil pan
I have a spare alloy sump in reserve just in case the unfortunate happens.
Maybe I should pack it in the boot also with my other spares for "on the side
of the road repairs" along with the hydraulic jack and jack stands too. (You'll
never know when it may be your turn.)
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
BJ8-"Blackie" 190,000+ mi and still going strong
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 21:13:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Towing A Healey
I tow my BN1 vintage racer on an open trailer with a 5 Litre V8 Ford
Explorer. Tows real good.... 70 MPH all day, and handles hills quite well.
The trailer with Healey weighs about 3500 Lb. I tow more than 3000 miles
per year......Don't want to think about gas mileage.
For one trip, the minivan might be OK, but it may be a little light for
continued towing use.
Whatever vehicle you choose, I recommend getting the factory towing package.
This usually includes better cooling, suspension, electrics for trailer
brakes and lights. Automatic transmission is a must.
Good Luck
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ward Stebner" <liason@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 5:05 PM
Subject: Towing A Healey
> A quick question to those of you that have towed a Healey or that size
> vehicle before. I need to tow my Healey (on a trailer not a dolly) to
> lake Tahoe. No it is not a trailer queen, I need to get 4 people to
> Lake Tahoe and we won't all fit in the BN2. What size engine is the
> best for towing a small car while still getting good gas mileage? Some
> have said that a minivan with a 3.9L engine would be large enough but I
> don't want to buy a vehicle that is too small. Please keep in mind that
> I will be travelling through mountains. Any help is appreciated!
> Ward Stebner
> Saskatoon SK Canada
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 19:11:19 -0800
Subject: Re: conv. top frame
Sounds like you have the early style top frame and a car that takes the late
style. I have an early BN4 and a late style top frame. Do you want to
trade?
John
'58 BN4
>From: stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
>
>i pick-up a 1958bn4l with a hard top came with solf top and frame
>unassamble i have not removed hard top yet.but it dose not look like this
>frame mounts to my car were the frame ends(mounting points) left side goes
>stright down with a bolt with spring than nut. right side has a hook bent
>about 3 inches forward also i have the complete head rail how does this
>conneck to the frame on my sprite everything screws together thanks forall
>your help in the pass Stephen/NY
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 02:02:00 -0600
Subject: Healey sighting
It's 2330 Friday night. I am in the middle, or to be more accurate, the
beginning of a frame-off restoration of my '67 BJ8. Just finished
sandblasting the frame and inner body and getting ready to weld in a pile of
Kilmartin panels. I spent the evening with an old friend here in Santa
Barbara, CA, then she left to go back to L.A. I went home and to bed, when
suddenly, the phone rang and she began yelling into the phone "Ran! There's
a Healey next to me on the freeway and it's all together and going eighty
miles an hour! I've never seen one all in one piece!" I asked her to
describe it She said it looked black over white, but it was hard to tell
the color accurately because of the sodium vapor lights. From her
description, it sounded like a BJ7, but the driver began staring at her, so
she backed off. I told her that the driver was probably a nice guy and that
he most likely loved having a pretty woman ogle his car. So if that was you
heading South on the 101 through Oxnard tonight at about 11:30, thanks for
giving my friend such a thrill! Of course now she will be pressuring me to
finish mine so that we can go for a ride! Oh, by the way, she thinks that
the license plate was RED-AOK.
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8 'in pieces on the ground'
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 02:11:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
I will answer the following the misconceptions one by
one:
> > The melody out of music,
I am currently listening to Paco De Lucia, arguably
one of the greatest classical guitarists in the world.
> > The pride out of appearance,
I wear a suit, with cufflinks, every day to work.
> > The romance out of love,
I am engaged and will be married to my fiancee in a
14th century Gothic cathedral in Kocise, Slovakia. If
that isn't romantic, I'm not sure what is.
> > The commitment out of marriage,
I've never been married, and never been divorced. I
made a promise that when I made that commitment to
someone, it would be forever. I just made that
commitment on Dec. 1 and I intend to keep it.
> > The responsibility out of parenthood,
My parents remained married to each other for 30 years
until I graduated from high school - for my benefit.
Trust me, I will never forget this.
> > The togetherness out of the family,
My family is more important to me than anything. I am
seriously thinking of walking away from my very
lucrative job so that I can be closer to my 80 year
old father. By the way my father spent 30 years
flying as a combat pilot for the US from 1944-1975
fighting expressley so that I wouldn't have to. I
know I owe him everything about the world we now live
in which is now relatively peaceful (Taliban aside).
> > The learning out of education,
I have a BSME & MBA from UC Berkeley & can debate the
relative merits and weaknesses of Engel's Utopia with
anyone.
> > The service out of patriotism,
I am still a believer and an optimist - I plan to
serve as some sort of politician in five to ten years
because I want to make things better in my hometown.
> > The religion out of school,
Well, I have to disagree with this. It's in our
constitution not to be like the Taliban. Privately
students can still study as their parents please.
> > The Golden Rule from rulers,
I didn't vote for Clinton. Neither did most of my
friends. By the way, what do you think he misses the
most, the sex or Air Force One?
> > The nativity scene out of cities,
Well, I guess I can't argue with this.
> > The civility out of behavior,
I walk on the street side of my fiancee or any other
woman, always.
> > The refinement out of language,
I can write circles around most people.
> > The dedication out of employment,
It's hard to be dedicated when all the old geezers
running things are such a bunch of lying thieving
bastards for bosses. Isn't Kenneth Lay a Senior
Citizen?
> > The prudence out of spending, or
Well, I do have two Austin Healeys!
> > The ambition out of achievement.
I raised $15 million dollars for my company in 2000
when all anyone ever cared about was the Internet. I
didn't believe in the hype and managed to raise this
money purely on the conviction and a promise of good
value for our clients, good service to all, and a
promise to our investors that we'd return their money
with a nice profit in about 5 years, not 5 months. See
what I do: www.executivecentre.com
Best regards to all -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 08:49:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
> The service out of patriotism,
>
> I am still a believer and an optimist - I plan to
> serve as some sort of politician in five to ten years
> because I want to make things better in my hometown.
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From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 08:37:39 -0500
Subject: Virus correction
My Norton, for some reason, did not alert me, Lynn, or our computer that it
was infected in any way. We immediately, when advised of the problem, went
into Norton and quarentined the virus as directed.
Hopefully, the problem has been corrected.
The response to the problem was, of course, typical....some tried to help,
some got mad, and some became defensive. That is Life.
Bill and Lynn Wood
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 08:01:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
As the late Walter Winchell used to say " Give him an orchid "
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From Bob Relick <rrelick at houston.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 09:05:19 -0600
Subject: Test
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From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 10:42:54 -0500
Subject: Test - NO Content
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From "Adamas Laboratory Corporation" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 10:54:24 -0500
Subject: Help in Orlando - Not Healey related
I need to ask for some help for a friend. He is stuck in Orlando with what
appears to be a blown head gasket on a 1990 BMW 318.
Any recommendations of repair shops that might be able to do a competent
repair today. The car is sitting at Fields BMW which is closed unitl
Monday. He needs to be back in Michigan by Tuesday.
If this fails, can you recommend a good car carrier to take the car back to
Detroit from Orlando.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, ONT
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 11:00:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus correction
If Norton didn't advise you of the virus, you aren't keeping it up to date.
Fred Criswell
On Sat, 2 Feb 2002 08:37:39 -0500 bill wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
To Kirk and All,
<snip> We immediately, when advised of the problem, went
into Norton and quarentined the virus as directed.
The response to the problem was, of course, typical....some tried to help,
some got mad, and some became defensive. That is Life.
Bill and Lynn Wood
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From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 09:13:42 -0800
Subject: Trading soft top frames
Jerry
BN4
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 17:57:05 +0000
Subject: Re: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
You should find the name Westlake on all large Austin 4 cylinder
Overhead Valve engines. This is not to say that the engine has been
tuned by Westlake. As I understand it Austin saw the advantage of the
heart shaped combustion chamber but Westlake held the patents. A deal
was done and the result was that every engine had to show the name. This
all started with the Austin 16 engine but could have been even earlier.
If so it would have been during WWII when production was to say the
least chaotic. Most Austin engines were side valves prior to this.
However the Austin OHV Fire Tender and Ambulance engine used to great
advantage during the London blitz had the 6 cylinder version of our 4
cylinder 100 engine. I will have to check if this had the Westlake
marking. If anybody out there knows I am sure that they will tell me.
By the time the BMC engines started to appear the name was no longer
shown. I do not know the reason but perhaps the patent had expired?
All the best
>Hi Listers, I've been deeply into 6 cylinder Healeys since 1963 but don't
>know much about 100-4's. My neighbor is restoring a BN2. He discovered the
>marking of WESTLAKE cast into the right hand rear side of his cylinder
>block. Is this significant or do all 100-4 have this?? I know Harry
>Westlake was rather famous for heads....is there any connection?? Please
>help us out and thanks to all.
>Jack Brashear
>Little Rock, Arkansas
>
--
John Harper
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 12:25:19 -0600
Subject: Re: Virus correction
bill wood wrote:
>To Kirk and All,
>
>My Norton, for some reason, did not alert me, Lynn, or our computer that it
>was infected in any way. We immediately, when advised of the problem, went
>into Norton and quarentined the virus as directed.
>
>Hopefully, the problem has been corrected.
>
>The response to the problem was, of course, typical....some tried to help,
>some got mad, and some became defensive. That is Life.
>
>Bill and Lynn Wood
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 20:07:08 +0100
Subject: 100 S sales brochure
on the german Ebay branch there is right now a AH 100 S sales brochure
on sale. Item No. 1699240961. Starting bid is 200 EURO i.e. around 175
US $. What is a reasonable price for such a broschure ? I guess I will
not bid because I need my cash for my BN4.
Best regards
Martin
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From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 11:09:19 -0800
Subject: Hub Extensions
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 12:03:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
<< on the german Ebay branch there is right now a AH
100 S sales brochure on sale. Item No. 1699240961.
Starting bid is 200 EURO i.e. around 175 US $. What
is a reasonable price for such a broschure? I guess I
will not bid because I need my cash for my BN4. Best
regards Martin >>
$175 would be a good price. I've seen them go for
upwards of $300. However, bear in mind that there
were some reproductions of this brochure made several
years ago, and so if you are willing to pay the price
for an original, be careful to buy an original.
Caveat Emptor.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 15:11:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
--- Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de> wrote: << Hi all, on the
German Ebay branch there is right now a AH 100 S sales brochure on
sale. Item No. 1699240961. Starting bid is 200 EURO i.e. around 175 US
$. What is a reasonable price for such a brochure ? I guess I will not
bid because I need my cash for my BN4. Best regards --Martin >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
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from the rocker cover. I painted the rocker arm cover separately after
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 12:25:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BT7 Engine Detailing
As an old hot-rodder doing this job in 1980 before "concours standards"
arrived, I chromed several removable parts: two thin metal tappet
covers, valve cover "T" fitting and vent tubes, oil filler cap, brake
fluid container and bracket, and both SU air cleaners. I know,
"HORRORS" in today's Healey world.
The air filters can be disassembled by carefully pulling the mesh
screens up in their center area to increase their dome until the edges
come out. The mesh inside is just a big coarse steel wool pad that will
fall right out. After chroming, put the steel wool pad back in, insert
the mesh edges inside the newly chromed housing and push the center dome
of the steel mesh flat and it will stay together as original. I just
painted the steel mesh screen on mine. I don't know if it can be
chromed and still be flexible enough to reassemble or not.
The engine with fresh clean paint will look decent enough to raise the
hood at a car show. The part that shows the most is the easy to get to
distributor side of the engine block and head.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 15:40:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "l-dkirby" <l-dkirby@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 2:09 PM
Subject: Hub Extensions
> Listers, I need advice on what way the nuts for the hub extensions are put
on. Does the conical end of the nut go on first? or does the flat side go on
first? Any help is appreciated. Len 35624
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 12:55:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
:) j/k
Jim '62 BT7 tri carb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
> As someone who isn't a senior citizen (I'm 36), there
> are many of us out there who recognize the great
> contributions that senior citizens gave to this
> country, and yes I know the words to the Star Spangled
> Banner. It is incorrect and innapropriate to assume
> that the poor manners expressed by a few losers in the
> generally flippant media represents anything close to
> how many of us in our thirties feel.
>
> I will answer the following the misconceptions one by
> one:
>
> > > The melody out of music,
>
> I am currently listening to Paco De Lucia, arguably
> one of the greatest classical guitarists in the world.
>
> > > The pride out of appearance,
>
> I wear a suit, with cufflinks, every day to work.
>
> > > The romance out of love,
>
> I am engaged and will be married to my fiancee in a
> 14th century Gothic cathedral in Kocise, Slovakia. If
> that isn't romantic, I'm not sure what is.
>
> > > The commitment out of marriage,
>
> I've never been married, and never been divorced. I
> made a promise that when I made that commitment to
> someone, it would be forever. I just made that
> commitment on Dec. 1 and I intend to keep it.
>
> > > The responsibility out of parenthood,
>
> My parents remained married to each other for 30 years
> until I graduated from high school - for my benefit.
> Trust me, I will never forget this.
>
> > > The togetherness out of the family,
>
> My family is more important to me than anything. I am
> seriously thinking of walking away from my very
> lucrative job so that I can be closer to my 80 year
> old father. By the way my father spent 30 years
> flying as a combat pilot for the US from 1944-1975
> fighting expressley so that I wouldn't have to. I
> know I owe him everything about the world we now live
> in which is now relatively peaceful (Taliban aside).
>
> > > The learning out of education,
>
> I have a BSME & MBA from UC Berkeley & can debate the
> relative merits and weaknesses of Engel's Utopia with
> anyone.
>
> > > The service out of patriotism,
>
> I am still a believer and an optimist - I plan to
> serve as some sort of politician in five to ten years
> because I want to make things better in my hometown.
>
> > > The religion out of school,
>
> Well, I have to disagree with this. It's in our
> constitution not to be like the Taliban. Privately
> students can still study as their parents please.
>
> > > The Golden Rule from rulers,
>
> I didn't vote for Clinton. Neither did most of my
> friends. By the way, what do you think he misses the
> most, the sex or Air Force One?
>
> > > The nativity scene out of cities,
>
> Well, I guess I can't argue with this.
>
> > > The civility out of behavior,
>
> I walk on the street side of my fiancee or any other
> woman, always.
>
> > > The refinement out of language,
>
> I can write circles around most people.
>
> > > The dedication out of employment,
>
> It's hard to be dedicated when all the old geezers
> running things are such a bunch of lying thieving
> bastards for bosses. Isn't Kenneth Lay a Senior
> Citizen?
>
> > > The prudence out of spending, or
>
> Well, I do have two Austin Healeys!
>
> > > The ambition out of achievement.
>
> I raised $15 million dollars for my company in 2000
> when all anyone ever cared about was the Internet. I
> didn't believe in the hype and managed to raise this
> money purely on the conviction and a promise of good
> value for our clients, good service to all, and a
> promise to our investors that we'd return their money
> with a nice profit in about 5 years, not 5 months. See
> what I do: www.executivecentre.com
>
> Best regards to all -
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 13:15:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Auction Commissions
It is a very competitive business in which lining up a famous old race
car or classic collection is becoming necessary at each auction to draw
a crowd.
The sales fees are not that much when you look at the promotion
catalogues, the ability to set a reserve (at a surcharge) to protect the
seller from a "bad day," the huge financially pre-qualified crowds
present and looking at your car . . . not to mention their expertise in
advising sellers on a realistic reserve and ability to get a buyer
excited enough to throw in a bit more than planned (that chandelier has
no sense of value). The commission system somewhat keeps them
maximizing prices rather than just pushing volume.
I will agree that some of the more common cars at the auction could be
easily sold in the local newspaper for more net gain, but perhaps the
seller knows something and would prefer that the car not remain in the
town he or she has to live in. Buyer beware is always present.
In 1977, I traded in my first 911 Porsche on a newer one and gave up a
couple of thousand dollars rather than sell it privately. I didn't want
to provide an opportunity for every caller to test drive a Porsche with
my gasoline while I waited for someone who seriously had any intention
of buying it. The auctions remove this problem with selling an
expensive car.
The auctions are a great spectator sport, as you can see "A fool and his
money are soon parted" right before your eyes.
Pete Cowper
1960 Austin Healey BT7
1962 VW Convertible
1974 Porsche 911S
1987 MB 300E
1991 Silverado lowrider
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 16:21:47 EST
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
<< I have a BSME & MBA from UC Berkeley & can debate the
> relative merits and weaknesses of Engel's Utopia with
> anyone. >>
But can you play the spoons?
Don (-:}
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From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 16:52:22 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
Herman
>However, bear in mind that there
>were some reproductions of this brochure made several
>years ago, and so if you are willing to pay the price
>for an original, be careful to buy an original.
>Caveat Emptor.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 14:10:44 -0800
Subject: test
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 17:22:33 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Engine Detailing
<< I masked off the
fenderwells, firewall and frame with newspaper as well as the intake and
exhaust manifolds. >>
I've been using the Hirsch Healey-green engine paint with a lot of
satisfaction. Right out of the can, it can be brushed on and is thick enough
so it doesn't show brush strokes. It is advertised as being aircraft engine
paint and heat-resistant. It certainly doesn't seem to be flaking off, or
anything, thought the paint on the exhaust manifold has discolored a little
over ten years.
You can thin the Hirsch paint out a little bit to use it in a paint sprayer,
which would be the best way to do the valve cover.
Removing the carbs would certainly make it easier to get to that side of the
engine.
Remove the radiator at the same time (a pretty easy job) and you can spray it
a nice black, while painting the engine. With the engine and radiator
repainted, the car will look good and you can raise the bonnet with pride at
any car show or Donut Derelict get-together.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 16:23:28 -0600
Subject: Dont open email from me!
Sorry about that. I have removed the files that Norton has indicated are
infected. Even found one with the Trojan horse.
If you don't have a virus program you can go to www.norton.com, and they
will scan you C: drive for viruses. They will even download (long, verrrrry
long) a copy of Norton Virus for free.
Jack
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 17:29:05 EST
Subject: Re: Auction Commissions
<< I will agree that some of the more common cars at the auction could be
easily sold in the local newspaper for more net gain, but perhaps the
seller knows something and would prefer that the car not remain in the
town he or she has to live in. Buyer beware is always present. >>
I acted as a sort of informal adviser to a couple who bought a Healey at
Barrett-Jackson -- they're from Raleigh, North Carolina and the sellers were
from Salt Lake City. In neither place would I expect to find enough critical
mass to be able to find a buyer willing to pay fair price, or enough sellers
to be able to find a Healey when you wanted it. (I know, someone's going to
send me the Raleigh or SLC paper, showing fifteen Healeys for sale right
now.) An auction is a great place to be sure you can find a good number of
buyers or good number of cars all in one place at one time. Something to be
said for that.
Cheers
Gary
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from the Healey list since last Tuesday. So if you responded to this
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 14:45:28 -0800
Subject: Help needed again
Listers:
I friend of a friend has a problem and they called me because I am a "Car Guy".
Boy did they come to the wrong place. But I know real car experts....
Here is the automotive question.
this lady has a 1999 Volvo / v70 Wagon AWD-R-236 HP Turbo.
this car is 30 months old with 30,000 miles.
It is a "moms" car: driven to home, to school, to the market, etc.
She had tire problems and took the car to a service station and they
installed 2 new tires.
Front Tires 205-55 ZR16 Pilot HZ MXM V rated
Rear Tires 205-55 R16 Pilot 89H MTS XGT H4 H rated
I do not know which is old and which is new. My guess is the rears are new.
She is now having transmission problems and the Volvo dealer says it is because
of mis matched tires.
what do you think? the new tires have been on for about 2,000 miles.
TIA
Ron Rader
Los Angeles
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From "Scott Johnstone" <swjohnst at optusnet.com.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 10:08:48 +1100
Subject: Help for Ron
Scott Johnstone
BN1
BN2
BN4
BN7
BJ8
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 18:41:05 EST
Subject: Re: Help needed again
Tires are cheap compared to AWD. Replace the other two.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
this lady has a 1999 Volvo / v70 Wagon AWD-R-236 HP Turbo.
this car is 30 months old with 30,000 miles.
It is a "moms" car: driven to home, to school, to the market, etc.
She had tire problems and took the car to a service station and they
installed 2 new tires.
Front Tires 205-55 ZR16 Pilot HZ MXM V rated
Rear Tires 205-55 R16 Pilot 89H MTS XGT H4 H rated
I do not know which is old and which is new. My guess is the rears are new.
She is now having transmission problems and the Volvo dealer says it is
because
of mis matched tires.
what do you think? the new tires have been on for about 2,000 miles.
<<
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 19:36:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Help needed again
Apparently a large number of Volvo AWD owners have been bitten
by this problem. The cure is a new bevel gear, about $3k in parts
and labor.
For more information these sites:
http://volvospeed.com/bay13.htm
http://brickboard.com/AWD/?model=S70
If you check the archives on the brickboard you will get an
earfull about the AWDs.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 5:45 PM
To: List, Healey
Subject: Help needed again
I posted this message below but received no replies from this list.
It took me several days to realized that I have received no input
from the Healey list since last Tuesday. So if you responded to this
question could you please re-post your answer to me. Sorry!
Ron Rader
Listers:
I friend of a friend has a problem and they called me because I am a "Car
Guy".
Boy did they come to the wrong place. But I know real car experts....
Here is the automotive question.
this lady has a 1999 Volvo / v70 Wagon AWD-R-236 HP Turbo.
this car is 30 months old with 30,000 miles.
It is a "moms" car: driven to home, to school, to the market, etc.
She had tire problems and took the car to a service station and they
installed 2 new tires.
Front Tires 205-55 ZR16 Pilot HZ MXM V rated
Rear Tires 205-55 R16 Pilot 89H MTS XGT H4 H rated
I do not know which is old and which is new. My guess is the rears are new.
She is now having transmission problems and the Volvo dealer says it is
because
of mis matched tires.
what do you think? the new tires have been on for about 2,000 miles.
TIA
Ron Rader
Los Angeles
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 20:04:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Help needed again
Owwcchhhh !!!
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 21:12:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
Bill Lawrence
"Gary R. Cox" wrote:
> Vote ALAN ....for President, 2005 !!!!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 5:11 AM
> Subject: Re: Senior Citizens - Well I have to disagree!!!
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 21:14:05 -0800
Subject: Re: more ANSA
> in Italy, I kind of got the impression in our conversations that if ANSA
> ever decided it would be economically viable it might be possible to see
> some more produced. I would expect it would take an order for at
> least two or three hundred units to get their attention, though.
Sign me up! That's 299 to go. Heck, they may be here before the
3.5 rear ends ...
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> On this ANSA thread, the legend, as I heard it, was that John Peters
> of Sports and Classics sent an Abarth system to ANSA when Abarth
> went out of the business and got ANSA to copy it. This is fairly easy
> to believe if you set an Abarth BJ8 system next to an ANSA one and
> compare--they are virtually identical in appearance and dimension.
>
> I bought the Healey systems directly from ANSA USA out of their
> primary facility in Atlanta until they quit producing them in Italy several
> years ago. When I last spoke to the guys in Atlanta they had 16 BJ8
> front units but no resonators, so they could no longer supply complete
> systems. Although production of both sections had been discontinued
> in Italy, I kind of got the impression in our conversations that if ANSA
> ever decided it would be economically viable it might be possible to see
> some more produced. I would expect it would take an order for at
> least two or three hundred units to get their attention, though.
>
> ANSA is one of the best and most durable brands, but to elaborate on Keith's
> point, water inside can rot out the bottoms. One customer of
> mine years ago used to start his car and run it for 5 minutes every week
> in the winter, and he managed to rot out a perfectly good ANSA in less
> than a year. He ran the car just long enough to dump condensation into
> the exhaust system and not long enough to dry it out. So if you want to
> make an ANSA live as long as possible don't run the engine less than
> 15 or 20 minutes.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 16:02:28 +1100
Subject: 1948 Healey sedan on eBay
The front (grille, lights etc) looks "Westland' - but the rear is a mystery to
me - and its a sedan (but not pillarless).
Any ideas??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098&r
=0&t=0
Just curious - not a bidder!!!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 00:36:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1948 Healey sedan on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098
--Scott Morris
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote: << Anyone identify
this 1948 Healey currently on eBay? The front (grille, lights etc)
looks "Westland' - but the rear is a mystery to me - and its a sedan
(but not pillarless). Any ideas??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098&r
=0&t=0
Just curious - not a bidder!!!! --Chris Dimmock >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Web-hosting solutions for home and business! http://website.yahoo.ca
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From "Scott Johnstone" <swjohnst at optusnet.com.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 17:12:47 +1100
Subject: its an Elliot
C ya
Scott Johnstone
BN1
BN2
BN4
BN7
BJ8
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 23:42:45 -0700
Subject: Re: its an Elliot
Bill Lawrence
Scott Johnstone wrote:
> Hi Chris
> Its the Elliot sedan, go page 82 in the book Donald Healey My World of Cars.
>
> C ya
> Scott Johnstone
> BN1
> BN2
> BN4
> BN7
> BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 03:01:15 EST
Subject: Re: 1948 Healey sedan on eBay
<< Anyone identify this 1948 Healey currently on eBay? >>
the correct URL is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098
in the description the seller refers to it as being "Built in 1948, by
unknown coach builder..."
and, "...this is possibly the only
one in the world..."
Rick
San Diego
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 06:10:52 -0800
Subject: re: Healey on ebay
I think the sad part is that the current high bidder, from his past
purchases on ebay is into street rods.
Patrick Quinn, what is this???????
Bob Denton
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 2/2/02 22:17:44, cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
<< Anyone identify this 1948 Healey currently on eBay? >>
the correct URL is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098
in the description the seller refers to it as being "Built in 1948, by
unknown coach builder..."
and, "...this is possibly the only
one in the world..."
Rick
San Diego
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 08:19:57 -0500
Subject: Elliot?
Go New England
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 08:40:07 -0500
Subject: Elliot?
Go New England
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 06:33:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Mystery Healey on eBay
<< ... I think the sad part is that the current high
bidder, from his past purchases on ebay is into street
rods. >>
So we really should, as a group of concerned citizens
of the Healey community, form an investors group and
buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA) and
get it properly restored, and then we'll...
(a) Store it here near my home in Florida -- great
climate, you can drive cool cars year around, no rust
factors -- and take turns driving it. (I won't even
charge you to look after it guys!)
(b) Re-sell it at a big profit (HA! HA! HA! HA! HA!).
(c) Donate it to a museum.
(d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
(e) [Your good ideas here]
Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part about
what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I just
like to brainstorm. Your turn...
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 09:34:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
Can I have some more coffee, please?????
Bob
Reid Trummel wrote:
> --- Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> << ... I think the sad part is that the current high
> bidder, from his past purchases on ebay is into street
> rods. >>
>
> So we really should, as a group of concerned citizens
> of the Healey community, form an investors group and
> buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA) and
> get it properly restored, and then we'll...
>
> (a) Store it here near my home in Florida -- great
> climate, you can drive cool cars year around, no rust
> factors -- and take turns driving it. (I won't even
> charge you to look after it guys!)
>
> (b) Re-sell it at a big profit (HA! HA! HA! HA! HA!).
>
> (c) Donate it to a museum.
>
> (d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
> Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
>
> (e) [Your good ideas here]
>
> Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part about
> what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I just
> like to brainstorm. Your turn...
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> http://www.healey.org
> http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> ===============================
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From "Jim Lesher" <cleona44 at hotmail.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 11:14:43 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
Also, when the brochure is opened and you are looking at the 100S facing you
the front tire tread is clear in the original. The repo only shows black.
With the new digital camera work available, I believable the original could
be reproduced without distortion.
I hope this helps
Jim Lesher
>From: Herman Farrer <herman@hfphoto.com>
>Reply-To: Herman Farrer <herman@hfphoto.com>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
>Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 16:52:22 -0500
>
>How can one tell the difference between an original and a reproduction?
>
>Herman
>
> >However, bear in mind that there
> >were some reproductions of this brochure made several
> >years ago, and so if you are willing to pay the price
> >for an original, be careful to buy an original.
> >Caveat Emptor.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 11:07:58 -0500
Subject: 100S Brochure
You almost have to have an original to compare the bad one to, if that is
possible.
$175.00 is probably a good price for an original and not so good for a fake.
Bill Wood
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 12:12:20 -0500
Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Lesher" <cleona44@hotmail.com>
To: <herman@hfphoto.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
> herman - An easy way to see the difference is to have an an orginal and
the
> old repo side by side. The colors in the repo are quite vivid - the greens
> and black.
>
> Also, when the brochure is opened and you are looking at the 100S facing
you
> the front tire tread is clear in the original. The repo only shows black.
>
> With the new digital camera work available, I believable the original
could
> be reproduced without distortion.
>
> I hope this helps
> Jim Lesher
>
>
> >From: Herman Farrer <herman@hfphoto.com>
> >Reply-To: Herman Farrer <herman@hfphoto.com>
> >To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: 100 S sales brochure
> >Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 16:52:22 -0500
> >
> >How can one tell the difference between an original and a reproduction?
> >
> >Herman
> >
> > >However, bear in mind that there
> > >were some reproductions of this brochure made several
> > >years ago, and so if you are willing to pay the price
> > >for an original, be careful to buy an original.
> > >Caveat Emptor.
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 11:29:54 -0600
Subject: BN1 OD Solenoid
Mark
Nashville
BN1
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From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 11:50:14 -0600
Subject: National Meets, Healey Awards ?
I would like to open a dialog for the purpose of honoring those individuals
who contribute to our hobby. Over the past 30+ years, during which I have
owned Austin-Healeys, I observe that individuals donate their time and
talents to our hobby. Numerous individuals come to mind, who never seem to
even want a simple thanks. I note that their donation of knowledge, parts,
service, and time is remarkable.
This leaves my question. Do we, and if not, should we offer award(s) at our
national meets to honor these people? If so please let me know about the
nomination and voting process.
In advance, thanks,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 10:01:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
Reid Trummel wrote:
> So we really should, as a group of concerned citizens
> of the Healey community, form an investors group and
> buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA) and
> get it properly restored, and then we'll...
>
> (c) Donate it to a museum.
>
> (d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
> Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
>
> Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part about
> what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I just
> like to brainstorm. Your turn...
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> http://www.healey.org
> http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> ===============================
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From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 12:04:16 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 OD Solenoid
The solenoid movement in the BN1 is similar to any other gearbox as the
valve and pump mechanisms are identical.
In my BN-2 I found that very slight movement is required. The less, the
better. Less movement requires minimal work for the solenoid which gives
longer life to that expensive part.
The repair manual advises a 1/4 inch fall on the solenoid plunger. I found
that I had to install a screw to adjust the plunger fall. This seems to be a
common modification. Use either a brass or nylon screw with lock-tite or
locking nuts. Not even the concours judges notice this.
This adjustment screw is important, as the fall of the plunger is also
critical. If the plunger falls too far, then the energy required by the
solenoid is excessive.
Also equally important is to have the rise of the plunger complete. That is
the solenoid plunger must achieve its full distance up the solenoid shaft.
There is a small shut-off switch that must be activated. Otherwise your
solenoid will only last a few hours and then burn out. After you replace a
solenoid, peel off that rubber top and cut the top apart. You will see the
tiny switch at the top. It deactivates a second coil. Keeping the second
coil active consumes extra electrical energy and will overheat and burn the
unit out.
The valve itself only lifts a slight amount. As I recall, maybe 1/32 of an
inch.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M (writing from Memphis, TN)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:29 AM
Subject: BN1 OD Solenoid
> I am sorting out the electrical on my BN1 Overdrive and I have a question
> for the group. When the solenoid engages it moves the valve operating
shaft
> that goes all of the way through the O.D. It causes the valve setting
lever
> on the far side to move, approximately how much should it move? It looks
> like a very small movement forward to engage the OD.
>
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 13:13:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
Bob Denton
Ron Rader wrote:
> Reid:
> I like that idea.
> maybe the two national clubs should buy it and then a resto
> fund could be set up. we can figure out where to put it later.
> there are enough good museums around.
> ron R
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > So we really should, as a group of concerned citizens
> > of the Healey community, form an investors group and
> > buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA) and
> > get it properly restored, and then we'll...
> >
> > (c) Donate it to a museum.
> >
> > (d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
> > Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
> >
> > Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part about
> > what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I just
> > like to brainstorm. Your turn...
> >
> > =====
> > Reid Trummel
> > Tampa, Florida
> > 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> > http://www.healey.org
> > http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> > ===============================
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 10:32:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Seriously. I like the idea, too.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
>
> > Reid:
> > I like that idea.
> > maybe the two national clubs should buy it and then a resto
> > fund could be set up. we can figure out where to put it later.
> > there are enough good museums around.
> > ron R
> >
> > Reid Trummel wrote:
> >
> > > So we really should, as a group of concerned citizens
> > > of the Healey community, form an investors group and
> > > buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA) and
> > > get it properly restored, and then we'll...
> > >
> > > (c) Donate it to a museum.
> > >
> > > (d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
> > > Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
> > >
> > > Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part about
> > > what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I just
> > > like to brainstorm. Your turn...
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Reid Trummel
> > > Tampa, Florida
> > > 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> > > http://www.healey.org
> > > http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> > > ===============================
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 13:35:08 EST
Subject: Re: National Meets, Healey Awards ?
<< Numerous individuals come to mind, who never seem to
even want a simple thanks. >>
You may have answered your question.
Don
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 14:04:36 EST
Subject: Re: Auction Commissions
<< Though, with proper inspection and research - taking you time - isn't is
possible to find a car of much better value privately? Did I
misunderstand what you wrote? >>
Sure. With a reasonable amount of time and accompanying patience, and a
willingness to travel, many folks find good Healeys and other classic cars
privately. It's gotten much easier in the last few years with the internet,
because you can find cars for sale in other regions as well as in your own
home town.
My point was simply that in Scottsdale last month within a week an interested
buyer could look at fifteen Healeys, all seriously for sale (and several
times that many Jaguar e-types, for example) in one place. Similarly, a
seller could find probably ten or fifteen reasonably serious buyers. So,
essentially, the auctions are for those people who have decided they want to
buy or sell a car and don't want to wait around.
Cheers
Gary.
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From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 14:14:46 EST
Subject: re: Healey Sighting So. Cal
Who was the grey haired cat driving the red Mk III east bound on the 210
freeway (Monrovia) Saturday afternoon around 2:45?
Gotta' let him know that he caused a little traffic congestion behind him
between the Baldwin and Huntington Drive exits, receiving stares from all the
other SUV's, sedans and coupes.
It was totally cool!
Should've let the top down though....
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From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 14:41:52 EST
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay (Additional Links to past bids)
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315288";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315288</A>
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315507";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315507</A>
<A
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315610";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315610</A>
Perhaps this person has been doing some research of their own to identify the
Healey.
At any rate, does anyone know what the "reserve" price is for the Healey?
At the discretion of the seller, that person can revise the terms of their
auction before the bidding closes. Simply put - between now and the next
five days, they can do just about anything from affixing one of those "buy it
now" tags on the item to pulling the auction entirely in order to entertain a
"private" off line offer, from a more informed collector, club or
organization.... HINT, HINT, HINT.
If the high bidder is a street rodder bent on acquiring any old 1940s period
car, I shudder to think of the sight of hot wheel door flames and those
endless funky funny car modifications that possibly await such a sacred
treasure.
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 14:45:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Books
As a prelude to what may be the sale of my car I am offering to the list
(before eBay) the following books which are in mint or near mint
condition::
1) Austin Healey, The Story of the Big Healeys - Geoffrey Healey
2) Healey, The Specials - Geoffrey Healey
3) Healeys and Austin-Healeys - Peter Browning and Les Needham
4) My World of Cars - Donald Healey
5) The Healey Story - Geoffrey Healey
6) Healey, The Handsome Brute - Chris Harvey
7) Austin Healey 100 Super Profile - John Wheatley
8) Austin-Healey Guide to Historic Colors - Pikovnik
9) Healey '92 International (40th Anniversary) booklet
10) Illustrated Austin-Healey Buyer's Guide - Richard Newton
11) Austin Healey 100 and 3000 Collection No. 1 - Brooklands Books
12) Automobile Quarterly Vol 7 No. 2, The Austin-Healey Fours
13) Post-war British Thoroughbreds (Their Purchase and Restoration) -
Bruce Hudson
Please contact me off the list if interested.
My '56 Healey Blue BN2 may be for sale. If anyone is interested please
contact me off the list so that we can discuss details. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 11:59:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
Anyway, I'd rather see us get a group of, say, 20
individuals together, each willing to put in $1000 up
front, and take it from there. However, I have no
doubt that such a proposition would be tricky and
fraught with peril.
Reid
--- Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Seriously. I like the idea, too.
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
>
> > Reid:
> > I like that idea.
> > maybe the two national clubs should buy it and
> then a resto
> > fund could be set up. we can figure out where to
> put it later.
> > there are enough good museums around.
> > ron R
> >
> > Reid Trummel wrote:
> >
> > > So we really should, as a group of concerned
> citizens
> > > of the Healey community, form an investors group
> and
> > > buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA)
> and
> > > get it properly restored, and then we'll...
> > >
> > > (c) Donate it to a museum.
> > >
> > > (d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
> > > Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
> > >
> > > Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part
> about
> > > what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I
> just
> > > like to brainstorm. Your turn...
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Reid Trummel
> > > Tampa, Florida
> > > 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> > > http://www.healey.org
> > > http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> > > ===============================
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 19:22:08 -0500
Subject: Re:Healey Books
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 11:27:58 +1100
Subject: RE: Healey on ebay x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Interesting car! From the front it looks like a 1946 low light Elliott
complete with the razor edge front guards but from the back it looks nothing
like an Elliott at all.
Of the 1,186 real Healeys built over half on the non Nash engined cars were
sold to specialist body builders all over Europe. The standard Elliott body
(if there was such a thing) did not have that 'sloper' style rear but with a
more pronounced boot (trunk). It could quite well be an Elliott with
modifications done to the first owner's wishes. Being coachbuilt cars it was
quite possible to have whatever you wanted - all you had to do was to pay
for it.
My advice to anyone thinking of buying it. Go for it as the original Healeys
were distinctive and very quick motor cars.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Denton [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 1:11 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: re: Healey on ebay x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
I have a Healey (1949) and a lot of literature from the UK Healey Club
and find nothing on this other than there
were a bunch of "specials" built at that time. The dual mount spares are
unique to the breed, I think. It may
have been customized in the late fifties also.
I think the sad part is that the current high bidder, from his past
purchases on ebay is into street rods.
Patrick Quinn, what is this???????
Bob Denton
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 2/2/02 22:17:44, cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
<< Anyone identify this 1948 Healey currently on eBay? >>
the correct URL is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098
in the description the seller refers to it as being "Built in 1948, by
unknown coach builder..."
and, "...this is possibly the only
one in the world..."
Rick
San Diego
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 16:46:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay (Additional Links to past bids)
Ending Your Listing Early
Use this form to end your listing early. But remember - lots of bidders wait
until the very last minute to bidYou may lose potential buyers by ending
your listing early.
If you have bids on this listing, or if the Reserve Price has been met,
you must cancel all bids or sell to the high bidder(s). You may choose on
the next page. (Note: This does not apply if you are ending a listing in
eBay's Real Estate category using the Ad Format, because no bidding
occurs in this format).
--------------
Revise your item
Change your mind on what you included in your listing? Or is auction item
not getting the number of bids you want? No problem.
If your auction item has received no bids and does not end within 12 hours,
you can:
- Modify the item title or description
- Change the minimum bid price
- Change the item's category
- Add, modify or remove a Reserve
price
- Add or modify Buy It Now price
- Change the quantity of items
- Change shipping terms
- Change the listing duration
- Update payment methods
- Change item location or region
- Update checkout information
- Add or remove Private designation
- Add or modify a counter
- Add or change your images (except for images hosted by eBay Picture
Services)
If your store item is still active, you can
- Change the price
- Change the quantity
After you submit the item revisions, a section will appear on your listing
page with a link to an explanation of all the information that has been
modified.
* Note: If your item is listed using the Ad Format in eBay's Real Estate
category, you may make changes throughout the duration of your listing
(because there is no bidding).
The revisions will post immediately on your item page.
Please note that revisions may take up to 4 hours to be indexed into our
Search and Listings pages.
-------------------
At 11:41 AM 2/3/2002, you wrote:
>At the discretion of the seller, that person can revise the terms of their
>auction before the bidding closes. Simply put - between now and the next
>five days, they can do just about anything from affixing one of those "buy it
>now" tags on the item to pulling the auction entirely in order to entertain a
>"private" off line offer, from a more informed collector, club or
>organization.... HINT, HINT, HINT.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 19:58:29 EST
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay (Additional Links to past bids)
<< No, sellers can't do anything they want on eBay.
>>
Well, the post said, ..."they can do just about anything..." and, "...pulling
the auction entirely..."
Crappy as it sounds, that's how it happens. Once an item has been pulled, it
can be sold or relisted with new terms and/or descriptions.
It happens a lot.
Rick
San diego.
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From Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US at ThoughtWorks.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 19:04:28 -0600
Subject: HNDRD 6
I do remember seeing my first Healey. A red 3000 when I was waiting for a
school bus when I was still in high school (in France). I loved the way the
car looked, I loved the sound, and I had no idea what it was. I will have
one someday.
Enough about me. On September 8, 2001, I went to the British Car Festival
in a suburb of Chicago. There I saw a 100/6 with a "HNDRD 6" license plate
(or HUNDRD 6). It had Minilite wheels and no front bumper. I loved that
car. I don't know if its owner is on the list but I have a question: Is it
common for a 100/6 to have Minilite wheels and no front bumper?
I thought I would definitely buy a 3000 MK3 if I ever was to buy a Healey
but this car may have changed my mind.
I want to thank you all for all the information you're willing to share
with everyone for free. What a great community!
Olivier
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 20:11:34 -0500
Subject: BJ7 owner's book
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From "Capt.Don" <captdon at usa.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: 3 Feb 2002 20:30:15 EST
Subject: BJ7 owner's book
Don Zielke
1960 BT7
HTB7L05788
*
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 17:41:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
<< ... Is it common for a 100/6 to have Minilite
wheels and no front bumper? >>
Hi Olivier,
Helluva email address ya got there. Anyways, no, it's
not common for a 100-6 or any other Healey to have
Minilite wheels and no front bumper, but a few people
choose to do their cars this way as a replica of some
of the factory-prepared rally cars.
The Minilite wheels obviate all of the problems common
to wire wheels, and the no-front-bumper look is nice
as it does give the cars a slightly more aggressive
look and harkens back to the competition cars.
You mentioned that you thought you would definitely
buy a 3000 Mark III, so bear in mind that the
Minilites and no-front-bumper look are perfectly
feasible on a Mark III, too. Good luck.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 18:47:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Elliot?
Looks like you are getting your wish on the New England thing.
Bill Lawrence
James B Dalglish wrote:
> Looks a lot like "192 AC" pictured on page 35, "The Healey Story",by
> Geoffrey Healey, although the rear window appears to be different. Sweet
> Jesus it may be the Mille Miglia or even "The Horror".
>
> Go New England
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 19:04:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
Probably full of pitfalls, but wouldn't it be nice?
Bill Lawrence
Reid Trummel wrote:
> --- Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> << ... I think the sad part is that the current high
> bidder, from his past purchases on ebay is into street
> rods. >>
>
> So we really should, as a group of concerned citizens
> of the Healey community, form an investors group and
> buy that car and bring it over here (to the USA) and
> get it properly restored, and then we'll...
>
> (a) Store it here near my home in Florida -- great
> climate, you can drive cool cars year around, no rust
> factors -- and take turns driving it. (I won't even
> charge you to look after it guys!)
>
> (b) Re-sell it at a big profit (HA! HA! HA! HA! HA!).
>
> (c) Donate it to a museum.
>
> (d) Auction it at the Barrett-Jackson Auction in
> Scottsdale, Arizona some January.
>
> (e) [Your good ideas here]
>
> Well, it was a good idea until I got to the part about
> what we do with it after it's restored. Guess I just
> like to brainstorm. Your turn...
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> http://www.healey.org
> http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> ===============================
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 18:26:15 -0800
Subject: car #
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 19:14:50 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 OD Solenoid
Bill Lawrence
Mark Endicott wrote:
> I am sorting out the electrical on my BN1 Overdrive and I have a question
> for the group. When the solenoid engages it moves the valve operating shaft
> that goes all of the way through the O.D. It causes the valve setting lever
> on the far side to move, approximately how much should it move? It looks
> like a very small movement forward to engage the OD.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 19:55:37 -0700
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
Ditto to all of that. I am building my BN1 as a
daily driver and so wish to
avoid the headaches involved in trying to maintain
a set of 48 spoke wire wheels
over the long term. The work involved in just
keeping them clean would scare off
any rice rocket owner, and then there is the
problem of keeping them tuned and
trued. Also the panasports will allow me to use a
little wider tire and they
really look good on these cars (But then what
doesn't?). (Answer below)
On a less practical note my car came in a basket
without bumpers and I almost
became incontinent when I saw the price of those
things new and found that the
new ones are not of the same quality as the old.
Besides I've never liked them.
My theory is that the styling genius of these cars
shows best when they are seen
without bumpers (nude?). I don't think I ever read
anything written by
Gerry Coker that mentioned the care that was taken
during design of the bumpers
to give just the right look. Let's face it, the
bumpers on practically all great
cars are an afterthought. I know I'm going to be
taking chances in traffic and
in parking lots, but my car is going to let it all
hang out.
Bill Lawrence
Reid Trummel wrote:
> ---
> Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US@ThoughtWorks.com
> wrote:
>
> << ... Is it common for a 100/6 to have Minilite
> wheels and no front bumper? >>
>
> Hi Olivier,
>
> Helluva email address ya got there. Anyways, no, it's
> not common for a 100-6 or any other Healey to have
> Minilite wheels and no front bumper, but a few people
> choose to do their cars this way as a replica of some
> of the factory-prepared rally cars.
>
> The Minilite wheels obviate all of the problems common
> to wire wheels, and the no-front-bumper look is nice
> as it does give the cars a slightly more aggressive
> look and harkens back to the competition cars.
>
> You mentioned that you thought you would definitely
> buy a 3000 Mark III, so bear in mind that the
> Minilites and no-front-bumper look are perfectly
> feasible on a Mark III, too. Good luck.
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> http://www.healey.org
> http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> ===============================
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 23:02:15 -0800
Subject: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia???????
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601548437
Was this discussed on the list before and I missed it?
Bob Denton
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 23:32:54 -0500
Subject: Re:
I ran Pirelli P4000's (195/65HR15) on original Minilites on my BN6 "Rally
car". Looked good and handled well. I have a couple of photos I can email
you if you
like. Switched to Hoosier 550-15 for vintage racing. . Now its back on
the street with bumpers and
175-15 Michelins on wire wheels.
IMHO, the look of a bumperless Healey with
Minilites with low profile tires is hard to beat.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Capt.Don" <captdon@usa.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 8:30 PM
> I am looking for feedback from anyone on tire size and tire brand with
> MiniLite's on the big healey!
>
> Don Zielke
> 1960 BT7
> HTB7L05788
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Dsc00006.jpg]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Dsc00007.jpg]
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 23:33:06 -0500
Subject: Re:
I ran Pirelli P4000's (195/65HR15) on original Minilites on my BN6 "Rally
car". Looked good and handled well. I have a couple of photos I can email
you if you
like. Switched to Hoosier 550-15 for vintage racing. . Now its back on
the street with bumpers and
175-15 Michelins on wire wheels.
IMHO, the look of a bumperless Healey with
Minilites with low profile tires is hard to beat.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Capt.Don" <captdon@usa.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 8:30 PM
> I am looking for feedback from anyone on tire size and tire brand with
> MiniLite's on the big healey!
>
> Don Zielke
> 1960 BT7
> HTB7L05788
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Dsc00006.jpg]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Dsc00007.jpg]
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 20:32:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
One of the great things about healeys is their
flexibility in physical representation -- although
most healey owners try to be faithful to the look of
the mark, very few (maybe 5%) of the healeys out there
are strictly accurate as if they just rolled off the
factory line.
The other great thing about healeys is the entire
mark, from the 100/4 to the 3000 Mk III, is basically
the same car except for one engine change & adding an
inch in length to the 6-cylinder cars. As a result,
if you saw a 100-6 that looked pretty cool, you can
probably do the exact same thing on a Mk III - 80% of
the car's mechanics & frame is exactly the same.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
---
Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US@ThoughtWorks.com
wrote:
> I've been a lurker on this list for a few months
> now. I'm not an owner, and
> I consider myself a beginner in all things Healey.
>
> I do remember seeing my first Healey. A red 3000
> when I was waiting for a
> school bus when I was still in high school (in
> France). I loved the way the
> car looked, I loved the sound, and I had no idea
> what it was. I will have
> one someday.
>
> Enough about me. On September 8, 2001, I went to the
> British Car Festival
> in a suburb of Chicago. There I saw a 100/6 with a
> "HNDRD 6" license plate
> (or HUNDRD 6). It had Minilite wheels and no front
> bumper. I loved that
> car. I don't know if its owner is on the list but I
> have a question: Is it
> common for a 100/6 to have Minilite wheels and no
> front bumper?
>
> I thought I would definitely buy a 3000 MK3 if I
> ever was to buy a Healey
> but this car may have changed my mind.
>
> I want to thank you all for all the information
> you're willing to share
> with everyone for free. What a great community!
>
> Olivier
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 23:34:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Tires on Minilites
I ran Pirelli P4000's (195/65HR15) on original Minilites on my BN6 "Rally
car". Looked good and handled well. I have a photo I can email you if you
like. Switched to Hoosier 550-15 for vintage racing. . Now its back on
the street with bumpers and
175-15 Michelins on wire wheels.
IMHO, the look of a bumperless Healey with
Minilites with low profile tires is hard to beat.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Capt.Don" <captdon@usa.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 8:30 PM
> I am looking for feedback from anyone on tire size and tire brand with
> MiniLite's on the big healey!
>
> Don Zielke
> 1960 BT7
> HTB7L05788
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 23:42:36 -0500
Subject: Sorry for the duplicate postings
Jim
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 21:08:47 -0800
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
> Olivier,
>
> Ditto to all of that. I am building my BN1 as a
> daily driver and so wish to
> avoid the headaches involved in trying to maintain
> a set of 48 spoke wire wheels
> over the long term. The work involved in just
> keeping them clean would scare off
> any rice rocket owner, and then there is the
> problem of keeping them tuned and
> trued. Also the panasports will allow me to use a
> little wider tire and they
> really look good on these cars (But then what
> doesn't?). (Answer below)
>
> On a less practical note my car came in a basket
> without bumpers and I almost
> became incontinent when I saw the price of those
> things new and found that the
> new ones are not of the same quality as the old.
> Besides I've never liked them.
> My theory is that the styling genius of these cars
> shows best when they are seen
> without bumpers (nude?). I don't think I ever read
> anything written by
> Gerry Coker that mentioned the care that was taken
> during design of the bumpers
> to give just the right look. Let's face it, the
> bumpers on practically all great
> cars are an afterthought. I know I'm going to be
> taking chances in traffic and
> in parking lots, but my car is going to let it all
> hang out.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
>
> Reid Trummel wrote:
>
> > ---
> > Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US@ThoughtWorks.com
> > wrote:
> >
> > << ... Is it common for a 100/6 to have Minilite
> > wheels and no front bumper? >>
> >
> > Hi Olivier,
> >
> > Helluva email address ya got there. Anyways, no, it's
> > not common for a 100-6 or any other Healey to have
> > Minilite wheels and no front bumper, but a few people
> > choose to do their cars this way as a replica of some
> > of the factory-prepared rally cars.
> >
> > The Minilite wheels obviate all of the problems common
> > to wire wheels, and the no-front-bumper look is nice
> > as it does give the cars a slightly more aggressive
> > look and harkens back to the competition cars.
> >
> > You mentioned that you thought you would definitely
> > buy a 3000 Mark III, so bear in mind that the
> > Minilites and no-front-bumper look are perfectly
> > feasible on a Mark III, too. Good luck.
> >
> > =====
> > Reid Trummel
> > Tampa, Florida
> > 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> > http://www.healey.org
> > http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> > ===============================
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 00:23:59 -0500
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
Have bolt on Minilite repros by Compomotive on the BN7. Love 'em!!! Car is
smooth as a baby's butt at any speed.
For a view of them go to
http://www.comp.co.uk/index2.htm
select compomotive technology system
then motorsport
then ML
The 6 x 15 wheels were about $175 a couple years ago. Downside is finding
the bolt on hubs for the front and you will probably need spacer/adapter for
the rear. I had to have 1.25 inch ones for clearance on the Yoko A321. Can
give you a contact on that if you wish.
Keith Pennell
> Olivier,
>
> Ditto to all of that. I am building my BN1 as a
> daily driver and so wish to
> avoid the headaches involved in trying to maintain
> a set of 48 spoke wire wheels
> over the long term. The work involved in just
> keeping them clean would scare off
> any rice rocket owner, and then there is the
> problem of keeping them tuned and
> trued. Also the panasports will allow me to use a
> little wider tire and they
> really look good on these cars (But then what
> doesn't?). (Answer below)
>
> On a less practical note my car came in a basket
> without bumpers and I almost
> became incontinent when I saw the price of those
> things new and found that the
> new ones are not of the same quality as the old.
> Besides I've never liked them.
> My theory is that the styling genius of these cars
> shows best when they are seen
> without bumpers (nude?). I don't think I ever read
> anything written by
> Gerry Coker that mentioned the care that was taken
> during design of the bumpers
> to give just the right look. Let's face it, the
> bumpers on practically all great
> cars are an afterthought. I know I'm going to be
> taking chances in traffic and
> in parking lots, but my car is going to let it all
> hang out.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 22:25:19 -0800
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Let's face it, the
> bumpers on practically all great
> cars are an afterthought.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 01:29:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay (Additional Links to past bids)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- GeneralFolder@aol.com wrote:
> There are three "auctions" to note that the seller
> has won in the past.
> Please check out the links:
>
> <A
>
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315288";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315288</A>
>
> <A
>
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315507";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315507</A>
>
> <A
>
HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315610";>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600315610</A>
>
> Perhaps this person has been doing some research of
> their own to identify the
> Healey.
>
> At any rate, does anyone know what the "reserve"
> price is for the Healey?
>
> At the discretion of the seller, that person can
> revise the terms of their
> auction before the bidding closes. Simply put -
> between now and the next
> five days, they can do just about anything from
> affixing one of those "buy it
> now" tags on the item to pulling the auction
> entirely in order to entertain a
> "private" off line offer, from a more informed
> collector, club or
> organization.... HINT, HINT, HINT.
>
> If the high bidder is a street rodder bent on
> acquiring any old 1940s period
> car, I shudder to think of the sight of hot wheel
> door flames and those
> endless funky funny car modifications that possibly
> await such a sacred
> treasure.
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 05:48:07 EST
Subject: Re: Mystery Healey on eBay
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 05:55:45 -0600
Subject: Re: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia??????? x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 1:02 AM
Subject: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia??????? x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
> another ebay puzzle. Does this guy really believe this story? If he
> does, I've got a bridge for to drive across, as long as he buys the
> bridge first.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601548437
>
> Was this discussed on the list before and I missed it?
>
> Bob Denton
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 07:30:56 -0800
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
>From: "Keith Pennell"
>
>Have bolt on Minilite repros by Compomotive on the BN7. Love 'em!!! Car
>is
>smooth as a baby's butt at any speed.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:36:31 -0600
Subject: List Server Down?
Has anyone else noticed that they haven't had the usual traffic this morning on
the list? Maybe everyone is suffering from Super Bowl Let Down Syndrome.
Some interesting cars on e-bay.
Don
BN7
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 09:54:54 -0600
Subject: RE: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
-----Original Message-----
From: John Harper [mailto:john@jharper.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 11:57 AM
To: Brashear, Jack, N
Cc: 'Healey List'
Subject: Re: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
Jack
You should find the name Westlake on all large Austin 4 cylinder
Overhead Valve engines. This is not to say that the engine has been
tuned by Westlake. As I understand it Austin saw the advantage of the
heart shaped combustion chamber but Westlake held the patents. A deal
was done and the result was that every engine had to show the name. This
all started with the Austin 16 engine but could have been even earlier.
If so it would have been during WWII when production was to say the
least chaotic. Most Austin engines were side valves prior to this.
However the Austin OHV Fire Tender and Ambulance engine used to great
advantage during the London blitz had the 6 cylinder version of our 4
cylinder 100 engine. I will have to check if this had the Westlake
marking. If anybody out there knows I am sure that they will tell me.
By the time the BMC engines started to appear the name was no longer
shown. I do not know the reason but perhaps the patent had expired?
All the best
>Hi Listers, I've been deeply into 6 cylinder Healeys since 1963 but don't
>know much about 100-4's. My neighbor is restoring a BN2. He discovered
the
>marking of WESTLAKE cast into the right hand rear side of his cylinder
>block. Is this significant or do all 100-4 have this?? I know Harry
>Westlake was rather famous for heads....is there any connection?? Please
>help us out and thanks to all.
>Jack Brashear
>Little Rock, Arkansas
>
--
John Harper
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 08:19:48 -0800
Subject: Horn trouble BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 08:57:29 -0800
Subject: FW: belated Friday humour - one for the ladies! - A LONG
-----Original Message-----
From: Amanda Robertson [mailto:amanda.robertson@virgin.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 6:01 AM
To: Jensen cars
Subject: belated Friday humour - one for the ladies! - A LONG MESSAGE!
but no MIME
A little something I dreamed up while doing all that scraping and
painting.
Ladies, are you fed up with being a "restoration widow"? Bored with
sitting in the house while your significant other plays in the garage.
In this first of a series of articles Delila Smyth explores various ways
in which you can become involved and help rather than hinder the
restoration process.
We start with rust removal. This is a very necessary task but
universally hated by restorers. You can earn many many credit points
with your partner by volunteering to help out with this task. This week
I will go through the equipment needed. In the next article I shall
explain the various processes involved.
Ingredients
You will need:
? A BSM ("Big Strong Man"). For reasons I hope will be obvious you
should offer this position first to your own BSM. However any BSM will
do. You will need him to move heavy things (e.g. rear axles, leaf
springs) out of your way before you start the process. Thereafter, keep
him out of the way (you don't want him breathing down your neck
succumbing to the BSM compulsion to grab it out of your hand and do it
for you). But within screaming range so he can run to your rescue if you
get your hair tangled in the wire wheel.
? A large clear area of bench space in the garage. Note that it is
possible to do this work in the kitchen but it is not recommended.
Mounting a wire wheel and vice on the kitchen worktops tends to cause
irreparable damage (unless of course you have already asked for or are
planning to ask for a new kitchen in which case take this opportunity to
make this task urgent).
? A bench mounted wire wheel
? Access to the vice
? Electric drill and as many different shaped wire wheel attachments as
you can muster.
? Various types of goo, including:-
? Degreaser. Jizer is a much prettier colour than Gunk but don't let
this influence your decision because it will have gone all black and
sticky within minutes of starting
? Paint/ glue residue remover. Nitromors is good but some of the DIY
stores do own brands which are far cheaper
? An optional item is Rust Remover. This is expensive and not strictly
necessary but saves some elbow grease. Note that if you do decide to use
rust remover you will need a large plastic tray - the ones designed for
soaking the shelves out of the oven are perfect for the job.
? Plus Gas and/or WD40. I prefer to use both as Plus Gas is better for
unsticking and WD40 smells so much nicer so I use it for protecting bits
after they have been derusted.
? Bucket of water for washing off degreaser.
? Sieves for suspending collections of small parts in goo or water. Note
that plastic ones survive better in rust remover. Metal ones are easier
to clean but neither type tends to come up totally clean. Expect the
pasta to taste a bit funny the first few times you use them again.
? Several baking trays. If you can't find enough in the kitchen
cupboards (and you probably won't because your BSM probably sneaked them
out years ago and they're all in use), you can buy some at Tescos. 89p
for a turkey roasting tray and #1.29 for a general purpose baking tray.
? Hand held wire brushes of various shapes and sizes. It is worth
investing in new ones as they are much more effective than the worn out
ones already in the garage. They are very cheap but unfortunately not
available at the supermarket. You might have to go to a real tool shop
for this purchase. Halfords is not too intimidating. As long as you
avoid the parts counter the assistants know about as much as you do. Or
you can sometimes find these (and wire brush attachments for the drill)
in DIY stores.
? Old paint brushes. If you have to use new ones, get the cheapest
possible. It really doesn't matter if they start to fall apart. The best
buy is a value pack of assorted brushes from B&Q (about #3 if my memory
serves me well)
? Sealable plastic bags - the large variety intended for freezer use
(Tescos again) and the small ones (available from office stationery
suppliers). If you can, get the sort with white strips on them for
writing on.
? Various types of labels including the tie on type and the stick on
type. Some people use bits of masking tape instead of stick on labels.
However, I find that if it gets oily it can fall off.
? A notebook for making notes and drawings of bits you take apart
? A biro for writing in the notebook and on the labels. Some people
prefer to use pencils but personally I prefer to write directly onto the
bags and pencils don't work. If you have not managed to find bags with
label strips(see above) use a marker pen. Ladies, I cannot emphasis
enough the importance of drawings and labels. Your BSM will not thank
you if you take things to bits and then don't know how to put them
together. Even he doesn't know every tiny detail. (And he won't like it
if you are the cause of that becoming obvious)
? An adequate supply of handtools. A note of caution here if you are
using his tools rather than your own. You may have observed him bashing
his sockets and screwdrivers with hammers but don't let him see you do
the same. They all do it when they think no-one is looking but hate to
see other people abuse their tools.
? A blast cabinet. If he hasn't got one, persuade him (10 top reasons
why he can't live without one will be the subject of a future article).
? A loan to pay for the blast media (preferably in his name of course)
? A large supply of cleanish rags. If you can't find enough in the
garage or kitchen old T-shirts make the best ones. (Even though his are
almost certainly in worst condition than yours, don't even consider
cutting his up without permission)
? A chair so you can have a little sit down from time to time, or
preferably a bar stool so you can sit down while you are doing the job.
? Another chair so, if your best friend comes round for a chat, she can
sit down too, while you get on with it.
? Coffee-making facilities (including a spare mug for the friend of
course). Use an old kettle if you can. You will never get the grit out.
On the other hand, if you object to coffee that tastes of rust particles
it might be better to take your breaks in the house.
? Old clothes AND overalls. Note that overalls do not protect clothes.
They merely add an extra layer that the goo has to penetrate before it
reaches your skin.
? A complete parts list for the car. This is so you can check what
things are called before you label them. It is sooooooo embarrassing if
the BSM wanders by and bursts out laughing having read some of your
labels.
? A catalogue from a fasteners supplier. This is to aid your vocabulary
when making notes of bits that need replacing. It will make it easier to
differentiate between screws, bolts, circlips, spire nuts, self-lockers,
self-tappers, bifurcated wotsits etc. etc.
? Mole grips (AKA vise pliers or locking pliers) for holding small
things against the wire wheel. Some people advise never applying molies
to the threaded portion. You can disregard this advice. You'll never be
able to do them up tight enough to do any damage.
? You might consider spreading out a white sheet so that bits that go
ping drop on it. I usually don't bother as bits that go ping invariably
fly across the garage and land somewhere you'll never find them.
? Gloves. It is better to get your own than to use his which will extend
several inches beyond the ends of your fingers and make you very clumsy.
You will need:
? A solvent resistant pair for the degreaser (this is because of the
pungent lingering smell)
? A PVC pair for the paint remover (which burns)
? Latex surgical gloves. These are for protecting clean bits from your
dirty hands. You will never succeed in getting it the other way round so
don't even try.
? Gardening gloves when working with the wire wheels (optional)
So ladies that's all for now. Get shopping, begging, borrowing and
stealing and I'll be back next week to tell you what to do with it all.
Amanda
68 Int I 115/2739
Newmarket UK
_______________________________________________________________________
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 11:59:33 EST
Subject: Fwd: 1948 Healey sedan on eBay
Cheers
Gary
In a message dated 2/4/02 2:37:15 AM, Bill writes:
<< Gary,
We photographed this car in April while in the possession of the owner before
the dealer that is selling it. I looked all over the car for a body plate,
but was not able to find one. The engine number has been partially removed
with a grinder, so I was not able to positively identify the car through the
engine. I do think that I have placed the car as far as where it went when
it left Healey, but none of my reference books on coachbuilders give any
information on the name I have. Perhaps it is the name of a person not a
coachbuilder. Anyone interested in this car should make sure it comes with
at least four hubcaps as they are NOT AVAILABLE. It would be nice if the
seller would show the missing door.... We shot it from both sides, but will
only show the good side in the book.
Thanks for thinking of me.... All the Healey pages went to the designer on
Friday! We are getting ever closer to the end.
Happy Healeying,
Bill >>
Return-path: <OldHealeys@aol.com>
From: OldHealeys@aol.com
Full-name: OldHealeys
Message-ID: <85.16f287fc.298fbe5b@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 05:37:15 EST
Subject: Re: 1948 Healey sedan on eBay
To: Editorgary@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Mac sub 28
In a message dated 2/3/2002 12:11:53 PM, Editorgary writes:
<< http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098
>>
Gary,
We photographed this car in April while in the possession of the owner before
the dealer that is selling it. I looked all over the car for a body plate,
but was not able to find one. The engine number has been partially removed
with a grinder, so I was not able to positively identify the car through the
engine. I do think that I have placed the car as far as where it went when
it left Healey, but none of my reference books on coachbuilders give any
information on the name I have. Perhaps it is the name of a person not a
coachbuilder. Anyone interested in this car should make sure it comes with
at least four hubcaps as there are NOT AVAILABLE. It would be nice if the
seller would show the missing door.... We shot it from both sides, but will
only show the good side in the book.
Thanks for thinking of me.... All the Healey pages went to the designer on F
riday! We are getting ever closer to the end.
Happy Healeying,
Bill
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 10:10:12 -0700
Subject: Re: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
Subject: RE: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 15:08:26 -0500
Subject: Healey Library
So far I have an original workshop manual AKD1179A (and the reprints available
from many sources), original Parts list AKD855, and the repair manuals printed
by Haynes, Auto Book, Drake, Clymer, Glenns, Chilton and Auto Press.
Realizing that I am somewhat anal, are there any other repair manuals out there
that I should look for?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 12:21:11 -0800
Subject: DMH bust info ???
Approximately three years ago I solicited the list for
information on the DMH bust project of 1985.
I received a few responses and leads.
Following up on these leads, I have been able to
put together information I feel is almost complete,
but feel there are some loose ends, (missing links)
out there.
If any of you, I have not been in contact with, or know
of someone who, might have info on this subject, please
contact me or let me know how to contact you within
the next week.
TIA
Kirk Kvam
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 20:46:53 +0000
Subject: Re: 1948 Healey sedan on eBay
I actually saw this car at Brooklands about two years ago (well there
can't be two in that colour and state can there?). Wondered what it was
then, it appeared in one of the UK classic car magazines this month as a
"what the hell is this?"-type of quiz car.
My recollection is that when I saw it it was up for sale then in a sort
of "well I would if you pressed me" type of way.
I have a feeling that the original inside was there which was in leather
and in very variable condition.
It looked sad then and looks worse now. But it looked very interesting.
How much does the list know about the historuy of the model?
Wish I had #5k to spare right now
Peter Dzwig
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 2/2/02 22:17:44, cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
>
><< Anyone identify this 1948 Healey currently on eBay? >>
>
>the correct URL is:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601712098
>
>in the description the seller refers to it as being "Built in 1948, by
>unknown coach builder..."
>
>and, "...this is possibly the only
> one in the world..."
>
>
>Rick
>San Diego
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 21:13:45 +0000
Subject: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia - WARNING
HOWEVER the last Mille was run in 57 when unfortunately De Portago's
Ferrari ploughed into the crowd killing several people including five
children, De Portago and his co-driver, Ed Nelson. The Mille, which had
been getting progressively more and more dangerous was shut down by the
Italian authorities and was never run again.
Therefore there is no such thing as a 58 Mille Miglia car of ANY make,
there are only cars with (57 or earlier) MM-spec engines after 57.
Peter Dzwig
PS in any case as far as I recall all team cars were RHD and were most
certainly not red over black etc etc. Were they all run as open cars??
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>No, and that price doesn't seem to be too out of hand , yet. If in deed that
>really is a Millemiglia car. Can it be?
>
>Mark
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 1:02 AM
>Subject: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia??????? x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
>
>>another ebay puzzle. Does this guy really believe this story? If he
>>does, I've got a bridge for to drive across, as long as he buys the
>>bridge first.
>>
>>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601548437
>
>>Was this discussed on the list before and I missed it?
>>
>>Bob Denton
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 15:34:58 -0600
Subject: RE: S100 Brochures
I thought the BMIHT was the sole owner of the reproduction rights of these
brochures. I have two postcards which clearly state "Reproduction by kind
permission of the British Motor Industry Heritage Trust".
Should the trust be told about these reproductions I'm sure a lot of the
damage is already done?
Jack
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From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:38:04 -0500
Subject: 100-6 MM
Secondly, the Mille Miglia was a Model of 100-6 made by Healey. I believe it
was a different carborettor set up with a different manifold. It had nothing
with the actual race itself, much as the LeMans 100-4 or Sebring Models
technically had nothing to do with the actual races.
Hope this helps. The Ebay car looks pretty good in my estimation.
Bill "Virus" Wood
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:50:07 EST
Subject: Re: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia - WARNING
<< Therefore there is no such thing as a 58 Mille Miglia car of ANY make,
there are only cars with (57 or earlier) MM-spec engines after 57.
Peter Dzwig
PS in any case as far as I recall all team cars were RHD and were most
certainly not red over black etc etc. Were they all run as open cars??
Mark and kathy LaPierre wrote:
>No, and that price doesn't seem to be too out of hand , yet. If in deed that
>really is a Millemiglia car. Can it be?
>
>Mark >>
The Works team could very well have been preparing cars for the next season's
race. And...the 100-Six team cars were frequently red with black tops. Though
they had wire wheels, and many other differences...
The seller probably just got excited when they heard that some of these cars
were called "mille Miglia" in a couple magazines...
Now...If this car is all original...that's something. But look at the wheel
paint.
Rick
San Diego
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 18:57:23 EST
Subject: Re: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia - WARNING
A BN4S was also produced in limited numbers (50 or so) that featured four
wheel disk brakes to meet a sanctioning bodies requirements.
Derek Jobs had a great article on his web site about the Mille Miglia
Mystery. He moved form Canada to France and took the web site down when he
moved. Does anyone know if it has been reposted? Or Derek are you out here?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia - WARNING
Austin-Healey MM "Mille Miglia"
The model name MM was apparently part of a short-lived
marketing strategy intended to help differentiate the
100-6 with a redesigned cylinder head, as introduced
in 1957, from the original 100-6 models engine design
whose performance had disappointed. References to the
model name MM are found only in contemporary road test
reports in the motoring press, and are not found in
BMC literature.
The model name MM was derived from the Mille Miglia
("Thousand Mile") race in Italy in which Tommy Wisdom
drove the prototype 100-6 with the improved engine in
1957. The difference between the original 100-6 and
the MM was a running production change and confined to
the engine. The MM was therefore not a separate model
from the 100-6, but rather was the new standard 100-6
once introduced, all 100-6 cars had the new engine.
The original engine as used in the 100-6 had an
integral cylinder head and intake manifold. The
improved version introduced as the MM had a more
conventional separate intake manifold. Larger
carburetors were also fitted, along with larger intake
and exhaust valves. The result was an increase from
102 to 117 bhp.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:02:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Library
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 17:24:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: 100S Brochures
<< I thought the BMIHT was the sole owner of the
reproduction rights of these brochures. I have two
postcards which clearly state "Reproduction by kind
permission of the British Motor Industry Heritage
Trust". Should the trust be told about these
reproductions I'm sure a lot of the damage is already
done? >>
Before we throw our support behind the Lawyers' Full
Employment Act, let's bear in mind that sales
brochures, as a form of advertising which also
includes press releases, are meant for the widest
possible dissemination. By reproducing and
distributing these items you are only doing their
producer A FAVOR, and you are not infringing on any
copyrights. Of course, in the case of Austin-Healeys,
"the advertiser" no longer even exists.
If the BMIHT is claiming some kind of copyright on
these materials now, decades after they were produced
for advertising purposes and free distribution, it is,
in my opinion, a case of retroactively claiming
ownership of something in the public domain. I
believe that it is a claim without merit (and my
attorney can beat up your attorney).
As an avid collector of original Austin-Healey sales
literature, advertising, etc., I am not generally in
favor of reproducing these items (unless they are
clearly labeled as reproductions), but I also
recognize that they were freely distributed and are in
the public domain.
(The Service Manuals/Workshop Manuals may be a
different question since BMC published AND SOLD these
items.)
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 21:00:19 -0500
Subject: Need a source for taps & dies.
Thanks,
Heard
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 21:12:14 -0800
Subject: Re: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia - WARNING
My car is an Austin Healey MM!!!!!!!
Reid Trummel wrote:
> ...and not to overlook the information contained right
> there on your bookshelf in the Austin-Healey Resource
> Book, published by the Austin-Healey Club USA:
>
> Austin-Healey MM "Mille Miglia"
>
> The model name MM was apparently part of a short-lived
> marketing strategy intended to help differentiate the
> 100-6 with a redesigned cylinder head, as introduced
> in 1957, from the original 100-6 models engine design
> whose performance had disappointed. References to the
> model name MM are found only in contemporary road test
> reports in the motoring press, and are not found in
> BMC literature.
>
> The model name MM was derived from the Mille Miglia
> ("Thousand Mile") race in Italy in which Tommy Wisdom
> drove the prototype 100-6 with the improved engine in
> 1957. The difference between the original 100-6 and
> the MM was a running production change and confined to
> the engine. The MM was therefore not a separate model
> from the 100-6, but rather was the new standard 100-6
> once introduced, all 100-6 cars had the new engine.
>
> The original engine as used in the 100-6 had an
> integral cylinder head and intake manifold. The
> improved version introduced as the MM had a more
> conventional separate intake manifold. Larger
> carburetors were also fitted, along with larger intake
> and exhaust valves. The result was an increase from
> 102 to 117 bhp.
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 21:31:37 EST
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies.
<< Does anyone have a good source for these hard to find taps. I need a 3/16
x
32 right now and I suspect there will be more. >>
I assume you measured the OD of the screw and it was 187"
You probably want a 10-32 tap. More common than Fire Ants in Texas. Any
machine supply house will have them, even some hardware stores.
Don
Healey Parts <A HREF="dunritetool.com">www.dunritetool.com</A>
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 18:56:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Horn trouble BJ8
#1) Generally speaking, you don't need to remove the
bullets to get it down the tube if it's made properly
- with staggered bullets at the end of the loom. I
have to assume your mechanic didn't know his arse from
your healey's tailpipes.
#2) If the bullets have been reconnected at the end of
the loom, they should be soldered on - not crimped on.
Crimped on connections have a tendancy to come off -
check to see if this has happened - give each bullet
connector a slight tug and see if the wire comes out -
if it does that's your problem.
#3) Check your connections at the horn itself with
someone pressing the horn button and you using a
voltage meter or lighted voltage tester at the horn.
If it records current at the horns, then your problem
is the horns. see next point.
#4) If your horns haven't been used in a while, the
contacts inside may be worn or completely out of
adjustment. try tapping them with a hammer and see if
they work - if so the internal horn contacts must be
adjusted. Look in your manual for details on how to
do this - it's very easy to adjust.
#5) If there isn't any current at the horns, then
check your fuse box - even move the fuses around a bit
with your finger. If you haven't been working your
horn in a while, then using it twice it might have
lost a firm connection in the fusebox - simple fix,
happens all the time.
#6) If this doesn't fix it, check to see if there is a
connection with ground at the end of the trafficator
loom when the horn is pressed (the horn works on a
grounded switched circuit, not a "hot lead" switched
circuit like other stuff in the car). If there is no
connection with ground when the horn is pressed, then
the connection is lost in the trafficator somewhere.
Take the trafficator out and diagnose it!
#7) With healeys, the general rule is if you want it
done right, you have to do it yourself... unless you
take it to David Nock or one of the other healey
specialists out there.... Putting on a trafficator is
a relatively easy job... something you should learn to
do yourself in the future - it'll save you massive
amounts of hassle & money and you'll learn a little in
the process.
Good Luck & Best Regards!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dwight Patten <pattend@nortelnetworks.com> wrote:
> Earlier this year I had a new (Taiwan version)
> trafficator installed with
> new wiring etc. The horn worked a couple of times
> and now has stopped
> altogether. I remember the shop that put it in
> mentioned that he had to cut
> the bullet connectors off in order to run the wires
> down the stator tube,
> Then they were resoldered. I have checked all the
> (mostly purple) wiring
> associated with the horns and nothing has shown up
> out of the ordinary.
> Fuses OK. Another side effect is that the right
> turn signal has to be held
> or it does not operate properly. I know I can just
> bring it back to the
> shop that did the work but, thought I would poll the
> enlist to see if anyone
> has had a similar experience.
> NEW ENGLAND AND THE PATRIOTS RULE THE
> WORLD!!!<------just couldn't help
> myself. I've waited 30 plus years.
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 22:26:31 EST
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies.
<< Does anyone have a good source for these hard to find taps. I need a 3/16
x 32 right now and I suspect there will be more. >>
Heard,
It sounds like you may be referring to a #10 X 32 machine thread tap or die,
in which case they are readily available at any good hardware store. If you
are referring to the similar #2 BA (British Association) thread, they are
actually 31.4 TPI (Threads Per Inch), in which case I can put you in touch of
a number of places to find Whitworth/British taps and dies.
What model of Austin Healey and what part of the vehicle are these taps
needed for?
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:28:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Driving with a tonneau
It has been a long time since I drove around with a
tonneau (and never in a BN7), but I recall enjoying
the tonneau experience with cooler outside temps and
the heater blasting. Is this just not possible?
As always - You experience is appreciated!
Dean
BN7
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 22:47:45 -0500
Subject: RE: Driving with a tonneau
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dean Caccavo
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 10:29 PM
To: healey (E-mail)
Subject: Driving with a tonneau
I am confused. Last weekend I took the BN7 out for a
spin with my new tonneau cover zipped over the
passenger compartment. All was fine on the surface
streets below 50 mph, but up on the freeway the
tonneau started flapping around. One of the
lift-the-dot fasteners wouldn't stay fastened, the
area under the rear shroud between the two rear tabs
was filling with air. Combine all this with the
zipper rattling made for a very short ride. I
eventually put the tonneau in the trunk and enjoyed
the rest of the day.
It has been a long time since I drove around with a
tonneau (and never in a BN7), but I recall enjoying
the tonneau experience with cooler outside temps and
the heater blasting. Is this just not possible?
As always - You experience is appreciated!
Dean
BN7
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 20:13:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Driving with a tonneau
Dean - BN7
> Perhaps your
> cover does not fit tightly enough or one of your
> lift-the-dots is facing the wrong way.
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 00:20:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Need a source for taps & dies.
I read the other responses to your question, and it is time to throw you a
hooker. There is a B.S.F. (British Standard Fine) thread designated 3/16-32
that has a different thread form from the normal 10-32 found in the States.
The 10-32 has 60-degree threads while the B.S.F. uses 55-degrees. Don't know
what the result might be if they are mixed? I bought a bunch of Whitworth
course and fine thread taps and dies from England. Cost about half what the
few US outlets were charging. Took only five days from internet order til they
were in my mail box.
Ken Mason
BJ7 in work
"Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
>Hello,
>Does anyone have a good source for these hard to find taps. I need a 3/16 x
>32 right now and I suspect there will be more.
>
>Thanks,
>Heard
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From "Byron Krystad" <bkrystad at msn.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 21:33:24 -0800
Subject: heater tap on BN2 water pump
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 01:05:51 EST
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies
<< I read the other responses to your question, and it is time to throw you a
hooker. There is a B.S.F. (British Standard Fine) thread designated 3/16-32
that has a different thread form from the normal 10-32 found in the States.
The 10-32 has 60-degree threads while the B.S.F. uses 55-degrees. >>
Ken and Heard,
I wasn't going to mention the BSF 3/16 X 32 thread since I for the life of me
can't think of any application on the Healeys where it was used and I didn't
want to confuse the issue. Someone jump in if you think of something, but
most of the applications that I can think of off the top of my head would be
for #2 BA screws used mostly on the 100s e.g., S.U. fuel pumps, the dash pots
for the carburetors and the mounting of the overdrive solenoid on the BN1/2
transmissions plus a few other minor places on electrical equipment, like the
generator field terminal nut.
<< Don't know what the result might be if they are mixed? >>
I'm sure that they will fit, just like a 10 X 32 nut will fit in a #2 BA
screw or like most UNC (coarse) bolts will mate up with Whitworth threads
(BSW), but like Ken stated, the definition of a Whitworth thread form is that
it has a 55 vs. a 60 degree thread angle and therefore it won't hold as well
or as long, plus it's not correct. A Perfect example is the lower tapped
hole on the aluminum generator front plate. It's a 5/16 X 18 TPI BSW thread
but over time this bolt usually will get replaced by a 5/16 X 18 UNC one, and
they will fit together initially, but it will usually result in the tapped
threads being destroyed. Bottom line know and use the correct nut and bolt
for its proper application.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 22:21:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies
If I'm wrong, well, I'm wrong. If I'm right -> how's
that for minutiae healey trivia? ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/4/02 9:27:12 PM Pacific
> Standard Time,
> MeditionM@netscape.net writes:
>
> << I read the other responses to your question, and
> it is time to throw you a
> hooker. There is a B.S.F. (British Standard Fine)
> thread designated 3/16-32
> that has a different thread form from the normal
> 10-32 found in the States.
> The 10-32 has 60-degree threads while the B.S.F.
> uses 55-degrees. >>
>
> Ken and Heard,
>
> I wasn't going to mention the BSF 3/16 X 32 thread
> since I for the life of me
> can't think of any application on the Healeys where
> it was used and I didn't
> want to confuse the issue. Someone jump in if you
> think of something, but
> most of the applications that I can think of off the
> top of my head would be
> for #2 BA screws used mostly on the 100s e.g., S.U.
> fuel pumps, the dash pots
> for the carburetors and the mounting of the
> overdrive solenoid on the BN1/2
> transmissions plus a few other minor places on
> electrical equipment, like the
> generator field terminal nut.
>
> << Don't know what the result might be if they are
> mixed? >>
>
> I'm sure that they will fit, just like a 10 X 32 nut
> will fit in a #2 BA
> screw or like most UNC (coarse) bolts will mate up
> with Whitworth threads
> (BSW), but like Ken stated, the definition of a
> Whitworth thread form is that
> it has a 55 vs. a 60 degree thread angle and
> therefore it won't hold as well
> or as long, plus it's not correct. A Perfect
> example is the lower tapped
> hole on the aluminum generator front plate. It's a
> 5/16 X 18 TPI BSW thread
> but over time this bolt usually will get replaced by
> a 5/16 X 18 UNC one, and
> they will fit together initially, but it will
> usually result in the tapped
> threads being destroyed. Bottom line know and use
> the correct nut and bolt
> for its proper application.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 00:24:49 -0600
Subject: 100S Brochures
> If the BMIHT is claiming some kind of copyright on
> these materials now, decades after they were produced
> for advertising purposes and free distribution, it is,
> in my opinion, a case of retroactively claiming
> ownership of something in the public domain. I
> believe that it is a claim without merit (and my
> attorney can beat up your attorney).
Before speculating about who owns the copyright and who claims what--and
then offering a layman's legal opinion--it might be more useful to simply
ask the folks at the BMIHT about the matter. It may turn out to be a
non-issue.
And if you truly believe that there can be no copyright protection for
materials because they were originally available to the public for free,
then you'll definitely need that kick-ass lawyer because that's NOT the law.
The contents of the AHCUSA web pages, for example, are freely available and
folks are encouraged to go there and use the information at no charge . . .
but I'm sure you're aware that the club claims a copyright on each of the
pages. And I certainly wouldn't recommend copying the advertising of ANY
company and changing the name and details to advertise your own business.
Collectors of AH sales and advertising brochures such as yourself may well
have a legitimate interest in protecting the value of "genuine"
factory-produced literature, but even properly copyrighted materials can
generally be duplicated for personal use without infringing on the
copyright.
Jim Hill
Madison WI
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 02:07:28 EST
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies
<< Isn't the little castle nut on the BN1/BN2 Hood to windshield latch - I
think that's 3/16-32? >>
Alan
Actually they are a standard #10 X 32 TPI screw and nut that you can find at
any fastener store. BSF (British Standard Fine) thread nuts and bolts were
used on the 100s on the engine, transmission and the suspension parts while
BA (British Association) fasteners were used in "Smiths" Instruments and in
places S.U. fuel pumps and carburetors. Plus to confuse matters more there
were some BSW (British Standard Whitworth) and some BSP (British Standard
Pipe) threads forms thrown in for good measure.
When the 100s were being built, the British were making the transition to the
Unified Thread System i.e., UNF/UNC which is for all intents and purposes
equivalent to the SAE fasteners used here in the U.S. So that's why any of
the old castings, engines, transmissions etc. will be Whitworth Thread Forms
since it was too hard to change the tooling and the miscellaneous nuts and
bolts will be the Unified system.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 02:27:10 EST
Subject: Tahoe and other long tour emergency spares
Also I have what I call emergency spares. They will have a chip out of
the pulley or a chip out of the impeller but will serve very well as an
emergency pump to get you home. They are for sale at $35.00 for all models of
big Healeys.
All of these are plus packing and shipping.
I know that all of you are carrying an extra fan belt but this pump is a
considered a requirement.
Send me an email if you are interested.
Have a great tour.
Cheers, Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 22:21:46 +0000
Subject: Re: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
Sorry if I did not make myself clear. The patent was for the head
combustion chamber shape but the marking is as and where you say.
All the best
>Hi John, thanks for getting back to me as, so far, I've had only a few
>responses from the entire Healey list. Most of the responses have spoken of
>the cylinder head. However, this WESTLAKE is a raised casting, not stamped,
>on the right side of the crankcase just ahead of the rear mounting plate.
>There is nothing else near it. We're just trying to find out if this is
>common or rare....any other feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a
>lot!!
>Jack
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Harper [mailto:john@jharper.demon.co.uk]
>Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 11:57 AM
>To: Brashear, Jack, N
>Cc: 'Healey List'
>Subject: Re: 100-4 ENGINE BLOCK MARKING
>
>
>
>Jack
>
>You should find the name Westlake on all large Austin 4 cylinder
>Overhead Valve engines. This is not to say that the engine has been
>tuned by Westlake. As I understand it Austin saw the advantage of the
>heart shaped combustion chamber but Westlake held the patents. A deal
>was done and the result was that every engine had to show the name. This
>all started with the Austin 16 engine but could have been even earlier.
>If so it would have been during WWII when production was to say the
>least chaotic. Most Austin engines were side valves prior to this.
>However the Austin OHV Fire Tender and Ambulance engine used to great
>advantage during the London blitz had the 6 cylinder version of our 4
>cylinder 100 engine. I will have to check if this had the Westlake
>marking. If anybody out there knows I am sure that they will tell me.
>
>By the time the BMC engines started to appear the name was no longer
>shown. I do not know the reason but perhaps the patent had expired?
>
>All the best
>
>>Hi Listers, I've been deeply into 6 cylinder Healeys since 1963 but don't
>>know much about 100-4's. My neighbor is restoring a BN2. He discovered
>the
>>marking of WESTLAKE cast into the right hand rear side of his cylinder
>>block. Is this significant or do all 100-4 have this?? I know Harry
>>Westlake was rather famous for heads....is there any connection?? Please
>>help us out and thanks to all.
>>Jack Brashear
>>Little Rock, Arkansas
>>
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:20:26 +0000
Subject: Re: heater tap on BN2 water pump
Before trying to find a replacement try taking it apart and carefully
polish the internal and external tapers. Then pack it with water pump
grease or other waterproof lubricant such as silicone.
By the way correct taps are difficult to find these days. Most new
replacements offered are not correct.
All the best
>My first posting, hope someone has some advice to offer. I've got a 56
>BN2 with a leaking heater tap on the water pump. As the part is not the
>easiest to find and pricey when you find it, I want to be sure I can't
>just live with what it's doing.
>
>When the cock on the tap is closed, it doesn't leak. When open (seems to
>be a half turn from stop to stop) it leaks slightly around the plate on
>the spring side of the cock when the engine is at running temp. As it
>appears the cock is spring-tensioned, is this just an unavoidable side
>effect of the design? Can the part be removed and reconditioned at all
>to stop the leak? Because it's a brass fitting, I doubt it, but wonder
>if anyone has tried. Is it a reasonable part to trust if picked up at a
>parts swap or eBay? Or is the only fix to bite the bullet and buy a new
>or NOS replacement?
>
>Comments appreciated; jokes expected. Thanks!
>
>Byron Krystad
>56 BN2
>
--
John Harper
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 07:21:37 -0600
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
I hadn't planned to get into the subject of cartel, or copyright, but you
raise an interesting point.
First, there are a lot of us who like to collect brochures. There is a
difference between the original and the copy. As with money the good drives
out the bad. I bought a much sought after brochure as a reproduction. I paid
a low price for the reproduction brochure. About a third of what it usually
sells for. What is to prevent anyone from removing it from the sleeve and
selling it for the price of an original? Dishonest? Yes, but, as with the
100S brochure, I'm sure it happens occasionally, and often because the
seller does not know he has a copy.
As for control, what is to prevent someone from turning the brochure into
something else. Perhaps changing the specifications. Then we have what
appears to be a problem in our hobby. If we have two apparently original
brochures with conflicting specifications, what happens to our concourse
specs?
I don't know if BHIMT does own the copyright, but it would be another way of
supporting a treasured institution.
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
To: "Jack Feldman" <qualitas@millenicom.com>; <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 7:24 PM
Subject: RE: 100S Brochures
> --- Jack Feldman <qualitas@millenicom.com> wrote:
>
> << I thought the BMIHT was the sole owner of the
> reproduction rights of these brochures. I have two
> postcards which clearly state "Reproduction by kind
> permission of the British Motor Industry Heritage
> Trust". Should the trust be told about these
> reproductions I'm sure a lot of the damage is already
> done? >>
>
>
> Before we throw our support behind the Lawyers' Full
> Employment Act, let's bear in mind that sales
> brochures, as a form of advertising which also
> includes press releases, are meant for the widest
> possible dissemination. By reproducing and
> distributing these items you are only doing their
> producer A FAVOR, and you are not infringing on any
> copyrights. Of course, in the case of Austin-Healeys,
> "the advertiser" no longer even exists.
>
> If the BMIHT is claiming some kind of copyright on
> these materials now, decades after they were produced
> for advertising purposes and free distribution, it is,
> in my opinion, a case of retroactively claiming
> ownership of something in the public domain. I
> believe that it is a claim without merit (and my
> attorney can beat up your attorney).
>
> As an avid collector of original Austin-Healey sales
> literature, advertising, etc., I am not generally in
> favor of reproducing these items (unless they are
> clearly labeled as reproductions), but I also
> recognize that they were freely distributed and are in
> the public domain.
>
> (The Service Manuals/Workshop Manuals may be a
> different question since BMC published AND SOLD these
> items.)
>
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
> Tampa, Florida
> 100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
> http://www.healey.org
> http://www.healeyhighlights.com
> ===============================
> Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions!
> http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 07:30:57 -0600
Subject: Copyright Protection
<And if you truly believe that there can be no copyright protection for
materials because they were originally available to the public for free,
then you'll definitely need that kick-ass lawyer because that's NOT the law.>
Jim is 100% correct on this issue. (Since he IS a kick-ass lawyer). Having
worked as a Contract Administrator for Douglas Aircraft in Intellectual
Properties, I have experienced cases where Douglas Aircraft went after certain
advertisers for using the words "Douglas Aircraft" in their advertising without
permission.
Also, as a retired square dance caller, I know that I had to buy a license from
ASCAP and one from BMI in order to use copyright protected music while calling
a square dance.
I would like to think that purchase of Austin Healey collectable items such as
brochures and sales gimmicks would be "buyer beware". If you don't know what
you are buying, don't buy it.
Don
BN7
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 09:14:39 -0500
Subject: Re:Coffee Mug
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 09:20:49 -0500
Subject: Re:How Many?
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 01:47:01 +1100
Subject: Re: heater tap on BN2 water pump
Hi Byron,
I think you answered your own question....
Move to a warmer climate country and leave the tap closed.
Couldn't resist. Sorry
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron Krystad" <bkrystad@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 4:33 PM
Subject: heater tap on BN2 water pump
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 16:15:58 +0000
Subject: RE: Driving with a tonneau
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> Peter,
> You have to help me on this one. Regarding the
> lift-the-dots other than upside down is there another
> wrong way?
>
> Dean - BN7
>
>
> > Perhaps your
> > cover does not fit tightly enough or one of your
> > lift-the-dots is facing the wrong way.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:00:13 EST
Subject: Re: Driving with a tonneau
Rick
San Diego
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:17:39 EST
Subject: Sebring sprite alloy coupe
click on cars for sale
then scroll down to the sebring sprite alloy coupe
Wonder what the owner wants to know. Could that be real?
Cheers
Gary
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From "Lee Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:41:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving with a tonneau
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 13:17:24 EST
Subject: Driving withOUT a tonneau
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:24:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Driving with a tonneau
It is the driver, not the car, that is the chick magnet.
The question is "How old of a hen are you willing to settle for?"
Best wishes.
Don
BN7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 13:33:28 EST
Subject: Re: Driving with a tonneau
> "How old of a hen are you willing to settle for?"
>
>
Don--
In Lee's case she would be a "stewer".
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans w/ Robbins shorty tonneau
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:17:15 EST
Subject: replacement engine plates and rivets
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:24:46 EST
Subject: Re: replacement engine plates and rivets
***********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:31:08 EST
Subject: Re: replacement engine plates and rivets
***********
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 12:05:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
<< Before speculating about who owns the copyright and
who claims what--and then offering a layman's legal
opinion--it might be more useful to simply ask the
folks at the BMIHT about the matter. It may turn out
to be a non-issue. >>
Asking the staff at the BMIHT for THEIR layman's legal
opinion would accomplish very little, except of course
in the highly unlikely event that they showed no
interest in owning a copyright on these items. My bet
is that they'd say, "Sure we own the rights, and
here's our address for sending your license fees and
royalty payments, and oh, by the way, keep 'em coming
-- we love the cash flow!" What would you expect them
to say?!? They have a built-in conflict of interest.
The fact is, the BMIHT is under intense pressure to
turn a profit, and contrary to common belief, it is
NOT operated by a bunch of altruistic car enthusiasts
(or any other kind of car enthusiasts; not that there
aren't one or two left somewhere on the staff, but the
powers there are profit-motivated managers, not car
enthusiasts).
There is a certain principle that goes something like,
Don't ask the question of you can't stand the answer.
The fact is, several people sell -- for profit...
small profit -- reproductions of ads and other
promotional materials, including the old BMC rosette.
If you're interested in opening a can of worms that
simultaneously throws cold water on this kind of
much-loved mom-and-pop enterprise, we can't stop you,
but there's another old principle about sleeping
dogs... or do we invite a BMW-retained attorney to
inspect the regalia sales at Healey International
2002? Our fate is in your hands! ;-)
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 14:09:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Driving withOUT a tonneau
> He didn't have his tonneau in place and the sudden stop caused his
> convertible top to fly forward. Also because of the stop, he was lifted up
>and
> forward in his
> seat. The front metal edge of the top hit him in the back of his head,
> causing a serious and deep gash.
> Another good reason to own a roadster.
True enough, but probably a better reason to use seat belts.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:49:05 -0600
Subject: Copyrights
<or do we invite a BMW-retained attorney to
inspect the regalia sales at Healey International
2002? Our fate is in your hands! ;-) >
They might drop in uninvited. In 1988 I was part of the planning group
(Director of Youth Squares) for the National Square Dance Convention in
Anaheim, CA.
Some attorneys representing ASCAP and BMI did just that. They "dropped in".
The resulting legal fiasco was settled out of court.
Don
BN7
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From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:50:46 -0500
Subject: LeMans Coupe
Good luck. I have all the info on this car.
Bill Wood
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From charlesg.smith at ps.ge.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:56:58 -0500
Subject: Quality bright work
Could anyone suggest a quality supplier for restoration parts for my 65 BJ8
- just received the air intake grill and surround for the bonnet from M_ _ _
- I think they must be parts for a 65 Buick, the certainly don't fit this
vehicle. - I was about to purchase a SS exhaust system, an aluminum gas tank
and various other parts from the sale catalogue - is it safe?
thx for any input
cgs
g GE Power Systems
Oil & Gas
____________________________________________________________________________
_
Charles G. Smith Jr.
Manufacturing Process Specialist
CONMEC
1480 Valley Center Parkway
Bethlehem, PA 18017-2264 USA
Phone: 610 758-7445, DC: 8* 731-7445
Fax: 610 758-7501
email: charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com,
www. gepower.com
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From "bill wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 16:00:44 -0500
Subject: 100S Brochures
The only way you can tell the fake from the original is to check the overlay
colors of black and green, and you need an original to check it with. There
are at least three editions of the 100S brochures, all I believe with the same
number, one for the USA, one for Canada, and one with no marking, presumably
for the rest of the World.
Keep on checking who has the rights, but again it won't matter if you are the
one who gets stung.
As with repainted Lionel train bodies, the repros are so good that your fake
will be just as impressive to your next door neighbor Healey expert as an
original.
Regards,
Bill Wood
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 16:43:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Driving with a tonneau
Yes, but the initial magnet is the car, but you could get real
lucky if she forgot her contacts!
Kind regards
Ed
Don Yarber wrote:
>
> Hi Lee:
>
> It is the driver, not the car, that is the chick magnet.
> The question is "How old of a hen are you willing to settle for?"
>
> Best wishes.
>
> Don
> BN7
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 18:21:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving withOUT a tonneau
On Tue, 5 Feb 2002 13:17:24 EST CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
When I lived in Connecticut, I had a friend who was driving his BJ8
<snip>
The front metal edge of the top hit him in the back of his head, causing a
serious and deep gash.
Rudy Streng
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 18:27:37 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
Besides, if you need to have the original and the repro side by side for
examination to tell the difference, what IS the difference? I'll answer that.
None.
Alfredo Criswell
On Tue, 5 Feb 2002 16:00:44 -0500 bill wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
As with repainted Lionel train bodies, the repros are so good that your fake
will be just as impressive to your next door neighbor Healey expert as an
original.
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 19:07:08 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
To: "bill wood" <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
> By the time the person with the $175.00 brochure goes to sell it, it won't
be worth very much anyway. The next generation isn't going to collect
Healeys, they are going to restore rice-burners.
>
> Besides, if you need to have the original and the repro side by side for
examination to tell the difference, what IS the difference? I'll answer
that. None.
>
> Alfredo Criswell
>
>
>
> On Tue, 5 Feb 2002 16:00:44 -0500 bill wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
>
> As with repainted Lionel train bodies, the repros are so good that your
fake
> will be just as impressive to your next door neighbor Healey expert as an
> original.
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:47:23 EST
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:48:18 EST
Subject: Re: Driving withOUT a tonneau
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:54:15 -0500
Subject: Haynes manual for 3000
I've tried locating a US source, including via Haynes USA without
success. Does anyone have a US source? I've tried Amazon and many
of the on and off line motor book companies. Haynes UK stocks it,
but with shipping it's over $40.00.
TIA
Herman
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 12:11:03 +1100
Subject: RE: 100S Brochures
I realise that it's night time for you guys over there and if it were me I
would probably be into my fourth port by now but to say that the Datsun 1600
is a copy of the Healey ..........................?
I'm tempted to bore everyone silly about the assistance provided by Austin
to Datsun in the late 1940s and early 1950s which resulted in thousands of
Japanese built Austin A50s. I also wont bore anyone about the 998cc Datsun
S211 sports car (scaled down AH 100) that proved to be a dismal flop on the
US and home market.
However the Datsun SPL310 or the 1500 Fair Lady (which came before the 1600)
was launched at the 1961 Tokyo Motor Show. The chassis is nothing like an
Austin-Healey nor is the engine nor anything else. Many claimed that it was
copied from the MGB but it was actually launched before it.
I wouldn't take a hundred Datsun 1500/1600 for my Austin-Healey.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: HealeyHundred@aol.com [mailto:HealeyHundred@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 11:47 AM
To: busyrider@springmail.com; healeybill@worldnet.att.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
busyrider@springmail.com writes:
<< they are going to restore rice-burners. Yup, but they are already
getting
into HEaley's. And I for one am very glad they are. They are smart,
creative and will add some energy to our hobby!
Besides, if you need to have the original and the repro side by side for
examination to tell the difference, what IS the difference? I'll answer
that.
None. >> Wrong, That would be like saying there is no difference between
the
Mona Lisa and an OK copy...The difference is that I for one need to be
educated to the differences between a good repro and an original. Then the
difference is $25.00 for the repro and $300.00 for the original. Now, if
you
don't think there is a difference between a copy and an original, I will get
a real nice Datsun 1600 to trade you for your HEaley! After all, the Datsun
1600 is basically a Japanese copy of the Healey. How about it? Straight
across, you won't know the difference! :))
Richard
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From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:12:46 -0500
Subject: Parts for sale
1. Timing chain cover
2. Original Rear bumpers (2)-need some dent removal and rechrome.
3. Original Front bumper-same as above.
4. Overriders(2)-same as above except one fairly heavy horizontal
crease.
5. Vent window assembly-drivers side, good glass.
6. Rear chrome surround (the big U shaped thing-difficult to ship)
7. Console speaker grill and chrome surround.
8. Fender spear-passenger (left) side
9. Switch panel-engraved chrome piece switches mount through
10. Conv top latches-one pair, rusty chrome on screw plates
11. Front fender left side-rusty bottom, very good from top of wheel arch
forward
12. Door hinges-one full set
13. Front grill slat assembly-damaged but with enough good "teeth" to
make it worth saving. Has a bent set of air baffles attached. Could be
straightened.
14. Trunk latch mechanism-square plate with pivoting hook.
15. Flywheel-good ring gear, somewhat rusty but very useable with a skim
cut
16. Exhaust manifolds (one set)-good condition
17. Rear carb air filter (with breather stub)
18. Heater switch and cable mechanism with pull knob-no fascia...just the
internals
19. About 30 white bath towels with 2 silk screened red Healeys. Great
ground cloth for show display of tools, jack, etc. $4 each plus $5 UPS
shipping up to 10. Most show a slight discoloration along the fold lines
from age. One free with any purchase!
20. Used original windshield mounting rubber. Serviceable.
21. Exterior door handle. No lock-just the casting.
22. Copper water transfer tube assembly-left side of engine above the
intake manifold.
23. Choke cable assembly from the firewall to the carbs only.
24. Tonneau support bar (2 pieces)-original part not a repro.
25. Drivers side door chrome trim.
TR-3:
A. Drive Shaft
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 17:15:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
The Haynes manual is excellent, and should be a valued
supplement to the factory manual.
The manual, I believe, is based in large part on a
complete dismantling and mechanical reconstruction of
one or more healeys - there are pictures on almost
every page - and the pictures are numbered and linked
to the text which is very useful.
In addition, the manual gives excellent information
the original factory manual sometimes misses, for
example rocker sequence used to determine adjustment
point.
My friend borrowed my Haynes manual about 8 years ago
and lost it - what a drag. I think I'll plop the dosh
and get myself one of the new Haynes ones.
BTW - my bet is if it did come to the states, it
wouldn't be any cheaper than $40 bucks. Go ahead and
buy it from the UK.
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Herman <herman@capitalhealeys.org> wrote:
> I am considering purchasing a Haynes manual as a
> supplement to my
> factory service manual. Is the Haynes book different
> enough from my
> BMC manual to warrant the purchase. Does it contain
> different
> information (perhaps in English) that would make
> servicing the car
> easier?
>
> I've tried locating a US source, including via
> Haynes USA without
> success. Does anyone have a US source? I've tried
> Amazon and many
> of the on and off line motor book companies. Haynes
> UK stocks it,
> but with shipping it's over $40.00.
>
> TIA
>
> Herman
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 17:29:47 -0800
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>; <busyrider@springmail.com>;
<healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 5:11 PM
Subject: RE: 100S Brochures
> Richard
>
> I realise that it's night time for you guys over there and if it were me I
> would probably be into my fourth port by now but to say that the Datsun
1600
> is a copy of the Healey ..........................?
>
> I'm tempted to bore everyone silly about the assistance provided by Austin
> to Datsun in the late 1940s and early 1950s which resulted in thousands of
> Japanese built Austin A50s. I also wont bore anyone about the 998cc Datsun
> S211 sports car (scaled down AH 100) that proved to be a dismal flop on
the
> US and home market.
>
> However the Datsun SPL310 or the 1500 Fair Lady (which came before the
1600)
> was launched at the 1961 Tokyo Motor Show. The chassis is nothing like an
> Austin-Healey nor is the engine nor anything else. Many claimed that it
was
> copied from the MGB but it was actually launched before it.
>
> I wouldn't take a hundred Datsun 1500/1600 for my Austin-Healey.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HealeyHundred@aol.com [mailto:HealeyHundred@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 11:47 AM
> To: busyrider@springmail.com; healeybill@worldnet.att.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
>
>
> busyrider@springmail.com writes:
> << they are going to restore rice-burners. Yup, but they are already
> getting
> into HEaley's. And I for one am very glad they are. They are smart,
> creative and will add some energy to our hobby!
>
> Besides, if you need to have the original and the repro side by side for
> examination to tell the difference, what IS the difference? I'll answer
> that.
> None. >> Wrong, That would be like saying there is no difference between
> the
> Mona Lisa and an OK copy...The difference is that I for one need to be
> educated to the differences between a good repro and an original. Then
the
> difference is $25.00 for the repro and $300.00 for the original. Now, if
> you
> don't think there is a difference between a copy and an original, I will
get
>
> a real nice Datsun 1600 to trade you for your HEaley! After all, the
Datsun
>
> 1600 is basically a Japanese copy of the Healey. How about it? Straight
> across, you won't know the difference! :))
> Richard
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From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 20:40:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Copyrights
While it's easy to bash big corporations and their attorneys, in order for
a company to successfully enforce their copyrights they have to...enforce
their copyrights. GM won't be on very strong ground trying to sue a large
importer of fake Buick parts (complete with authentic-looking packaging) if
the fakers' attorneys can point to dozens of vendors selling repro '57
Chevy hood ornaments, and 427 Corvette engine decals without GM's permission.
It's in GM's interest to support enthusiasm in their products and they're
not going to make any money selling '64 Nova parts, so they and the other
American (and one German-American) car maker have programs where vendors
supporting the classic car market with copyrighted stuff write to them,
tell them what they want to sell and the car makers send them letters
authorizing them to do so. They can then go after the "real" counterfeiters.
Don't know about BMW.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
BT7 with all Genuine BMC and JC Whitney parts.
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 12:40:52 +1100
Subject: RE: 100S Brochures
The 240Z was style by German Count Albert Goetz who not only had the BMW V8
and Toyota 2000GT to his credit and a huge input into the Porsche 911.
It's true that Datsun imported the first two AH 3000s into Japan and you
could say that the basic ethos is the same bit that's it. The chassis, body,
suspension, engine etc is nothing that that of an Austin-Healey.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hart [mailto:jgh3rd@jps.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 12:30 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick; HealeyHundred@aol.com; busyrider@springmail.com;
healeybill@worldnet.att.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
I have also heard that the Datsun 240Z was "styled" with the big Healey look
in mind. It's a stretch, but if you close one eye and rub sand in the other
you can kind of see it... Anyone else ever heard this or care to comment?
Jim '62 BT7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:58:00 -0500
Subject: Rice-Burners
Charley
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:44:16 EST
Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
<< I have also heard that the Datsun 240Z was "styled" with the big Healey
look
in mind. It's a stretch, but if you close one eye and rub sand in the other
you can kind of see it... Anyone else ever heard this or care to comment?
Jim '62 BT7 >>
Well, the engines are easily interchangeable, or so I'm told, if that means
anything.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 20:52:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies-follow up
This is really simple but, now I'm really confused. I'm not sure where I
came up with the tpi of 32 since the parts catalogue shows it only as
RMP0312. I could have sworn I saw it listed as 3/16 x 32 somewhere. Must
be getting old or something. Anyway, these are the striker screws for a 60
BT7. I need to tap the backing plate in a couple of places. Are these
indeed 32 tpi? Is it actually 3/16?
A confused rookie in Central Florida
Heard Saxon
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 18:13:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 240Z
There was a significant big healey influence on the
design of the 240Z - mainly the engine & drivetrain.
Datsun liked the healey straight six w/ dual SU carb
set up - but the physical design of the car was more
influenced by the Jag E-type coupe. It was meant to
be an updated style of the E-type for a fraction of
the cost w/ healey type "spirit." The 240 was styled
in "spirit" after the Big Healey. This claim is made
by many TVR owners as well.
Any old BJ8 owner in California knows that for about
20 years you couldn't find HD8 carbs in junkyards
because all the bloody Datsun 240Z owners were putting
them on their engines to replace the Hitachi SUs that
came with the car... I guess Datsun/Hitachi got a big
kick out of charging huge bucks for rebuild parts so
it was cheaper to switch & upgrade to HD8s...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
wrote:
> Hi
>
> The 240Z was style by German Count Albert Goetz who
> not only had the BMW V8
> and Toyota 2000GT to his credit and a huge input
> into the Porsche 911.
>
> It's true that Datsun imported the first two AH
> 3000s into Japan and you
> could say that the basic ethos is the same bit
> that's it. The chassis, body,
> suspension, engine etc is nothing that that of an
> Austin-Healey.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Hart [mailto:jgh3rd@jps.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 12:30 PM
> To: Quinn, Patrick; HealeyHundred@aol.com;
> busyrider@springmail.com;
> healeybill@worldnet.att.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 100S Brochures
>
>
> I have also heard that the Datsun 240Z was "styled"
> with the big Healey look
> in mind. It's a stretch, but if you close one eye
> and rub sand in the other
> you can kind of see it... Anyone else ever heard
> this or care to comment?
>
> Jim '62 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 18:21:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Need a source for taps & dies-follow up
Aside from carburettor & fuel pump parts, there should
be no BSF nuts, bolts or screws on your BT7.
Your striker screws will be UNF. Go to the local
hardware store and buy the #10 x 32 tpi tap for $1.50
and all will be good. If you are still concerned,
hold the tap against your striker place screws - if
the tap threads mesh with the screws like a puzzle,
that confirms you have the right tap.
Most of the non-metric bolts, screws & nuts you find
in local car parts stores or hardware stores will fit
on your car. See, owning a healey ain't so bad!
Cheers -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Heard <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
> Alright, alright, sorry to make all of you think of
> these complicated
> scenarios. Of course, now I know who to ask about
> any screw questions I may
> have.....
>
> This is really simple but, now I'm really confused.
> I'm not sure where I
> came up with the tpi of 32 since the parts catalogue
> shows it only as
> RMP0312. I could have sworn I saw it listed as 3/16
> x 32 somewhere. Must
> be getting old or something. Anyway, these are the
> striker screws for a 60
> BT7. I need to tap the backing plate in a couple of
> places. Are these
> indeed 32 tpi? Is it actually 3/16?
>
> A confused rookie in Central Florida
> Heard Saxon
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:10:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: 100S Brochures
Why would someone pay $300.00 for an original that is hard to tell from a repro
that costs $25.00? Someone other than an attorney, dentist, or gynecologist,
that is?
Fred
On Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:47:23 EST HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
Besides, if you need to have the original and the repro side by side for
examination to tell the difference, what IS the difference? I'll answer that.
None. >> Wrong, That would be like saying there is no difference between the
Mona Lisa and an OK copy...The difference is that I for one need to be
educated to the differences between a good repro and an original. Then the
difference is $25.00 for the repro and $300.00 for the original.
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From DDougan101 at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 22:11:55 EST
Subject: Healey Library
So far I have an original workshop manual AKD1179A (and the reprints
available from many sources), original Parts list AKD855, and the repair
manuals printed by Haynes, Auto Book, Drake, Clymer, Glenns, Chilton and Auto
Press.
Realizing that I am somewhat anal, are there any other repair manuals out
there that I should look for?
Reply:
A good "assembly" manual is the concours judging guide. This guide along
with a Moss or similar catalogue has extremely useful information.
Dave
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:16:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Quality bright work
Trust me, I'm not defending M_ _ _ here, but you have
to consider the following:
The intake grill & surround require very special bolts
to mount up - www.britishcarspecialists.com have these
bolts. Without it the grill will be a bitch to fit
up. In general, if you are going to order from M _ _
_, it is better for you to order through this
distributor because they are healey enthusiasts, will
honor M _ _ _ pricing, have alot more special healey
parts, and generally give you better rates on
shipping.
The SS exhaust system Moss sells fits up very well.
I cannot speak for the gas tank, I do not know how
well it fits, but it should be ok.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> Could anyone suggest a quality supplier for
> restoration parts for my 65 BJ8
> - just received the air intake grill and surround
> for the bonnet from M_ _ _
> - I think they must be parts for a 65 Buick, the
> certainly don't fit this
> vehicle. - I was about to purchase a SS exhaust
> system, an aluminum gas tank
> and various other parts from the sale catalogue - is
> it safe?
>
> thx for any input
> cgs
> g GE Power Systems
> Oil & Gas
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
> _
>
> Charles G. Smith Jr.
> Manufacturing Process Specialist
> CONMEC
> 1480 Valley Center Parkway
> Bethlehem, PA 18017-2264 USA
> Phone: 610 758-7445, DC: 8* 731-7445
> Fax: 610 758-7501
> email: charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com,
> www. gepower.com
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:15:58 -0500
Subject: Re: LeMans Coupe
On Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:50:46 -0500 bill wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
He paid me $45,000 for it <snip> I purchased a
328 GTS Ferrari
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:29:48 -0800
Subject: Re: LeMans Coupe
It beats so much of the anal BS on the list.
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> Bill,
> Don't know if you're aware of it, but it's not a requirement to state in
>every email how much you sold a car for or what else you bought with the money.
> Fred
>
> On Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:50:46 -0500 bill wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
>wrote:
>
> He paid me $45,000 for it <snip> I purchased a
> 328 GTS Ferrari
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from British Tool Company. email: nortier@britishtool.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 20:50:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Library
It covers stuff from ammeters to windshield wipers
You can't navigate ebay without the parts list.
If you want to check out problems in your ignition system the Fault
Diegnosis stuff will be very helpful.
-Roland
::I am collecting repair manuals for my BN6.
::
:: So far I have an original workshop manual AKD1179A (and the reprints
:: available from many sources), original Parts list AKD855, and the repair
:: manuals printed by Haynes, Auto Book, Drake, Clymer, Glenns, Chilton and
:Auto
:: Press.
::
:: Realizing that I am somewhat anal, are there any other repair manuals out
:: there that I should look for?
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From CEWPlatt at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 23:54:09 EST
Subject: Gas Tank Level Indicator Resistance
I know this has been covered before, but the list archive is down. What
should the resistance range be for the sender be?
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 00:46:09 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Need a source for taps & dies.
Ken
Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
>Ken,
>
>Do you still have the URL of the place you bought the tap and die set
>from? Mind sending it to me?
>
>Thanks,
>Bob
>*****************************************************
>Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
>(home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <MeditionM@netscape.net>
>To: ""Heard"" <heard@datatrontech.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 9:20 PM
>Subject: RE: Need a source for taps & dies.
>
>
>> Heard
>>
>> I read the other responses to your question, and it is time to throw you a
>hooker. There is a B.S.F. (British
>Standard Fine) thread designated 3/16-32 that has a different thread form from
>the normal 10-32 found in the States.
>The 10-32 has 60-degree threads while the B.S.F. uses 55-degrees. Don't know
>what the result might be if they are
>mixed? I bought a bunch of Whitworth course and fine thread taps and dies
>from England. Cost about half what the few
>US outlets were charging. Took only five days from internet order til they
>were in my mail box.
>> Ken Mason
>> BJ7 in work
>>
>>
>>
>> "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
>>
>> >Hello,
>> >Does anyone have a good source for these hard to find taps. I need a 3/16 x
>> >32 right now and I suspect there will be more.
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Heard
>
>
>
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 03:37:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Level Indicator Resistance
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
> I know this has been covered before, but the list archive is down.
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 09:56:58 -0000
Subject: Swap Triumph Haynes for Healey literatire
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 08:40:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Rice-Burners
Steve
61 BN7
>> When is the next "Japanese Car Days" event scheduled???
> Charley
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From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:03:30 -0800
Subject: ebrake bolt size
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 14:27:57 +0000
Subject: Re: How Many?
I do not think that you will get a very satifactory answer on this one.
We have 442 out of the 1615 100s listed on the UK register. Some are not
indentified by type but I would estimate that we have round about 500
BN2s recorded in total.
The problem is that this does not mean a lot. When I first started with
this register people were saying that there might be less that 500 100s
in total surviving around the world. They were clearly wrong and we
could be equally wrong if we were to say that we had most of the
surviving cars recorded.
It goes without saying that if those who have not so far provided
information to our register, did so, we would be closer to a realistic
estimate. How close is again anybodies guess.
All the best
>Does anyone have an accurate estimate (or as close as is possible) as to
>how many BN2's still exist, or how many confirmed that have gone to
>Healey Heaven (not Haven)? Thanks.
>
>Happy Healeying,
>
>Doug
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 14:48:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Level Indicator Resistance
The full resistance is around 80 ohms. However it might be of interest
for you to know that the "offical" SMITHS Instrument Tester when used to
check the calibration of the guage has the following internal values
Full = 75 ohm
Half = 50 ohm
Empty = 7 ohm
All the best
>I know this has been covered before, but the list archive is down. What
>should the resistance range be for the sender be?
>
>Regards,
>
>Clay Platt
>1954 100
>
--
John Harper
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From "Tony Souza" <tjsouz at epix.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:08:03 -0500
Subject: Reinforcing rear frame area
I'm new to the newsgroup and am amazed at the number of contributions each
day. I'm restoring a BN4 which is now completely apart and being refurbished.
I straightened the "kick-up" in the rear part of the frame members. They were
bent up at the part where the rubber bumper pad bolts on. My question is: Is
there a standard technique for reinforcing that part of the frame? Perhaps,
it's written up somewhere and someone can direct me.
Any help will be appreciated.
Regards,
Tony Souza
Ottsville, PA
1957 100-6 BN4
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From "Brian Davies" <mrnice3000 at hotmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 15:12:20 +0000
Subject: Drop in Oil pressure
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:27:09 EST
Subject: thanks
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 07:40:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Rice-Burners
> When is the next "Japanese Car Days" event scheduled???
>
> Charley
>
Hi,
In addition to my BN4, I have a Datsun 2000 roadster that I have owned for
25 years. My wife also has a Miata. Both cars are supported by several
very active clubs. A few years back I went to Shasta, CA for the 15th
annual Datsun Roadster meet. I saw over 100 beautiful cars there. Not bad
for an old rice burner that nobody cares about.
John
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 11:00:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Rice-Burners
Two year ago, I bought a Honda S2000 and have not driven the Ferrari
since except to move it from my home to my warehouse.
The Japanese have found the secret. If you ever drive an S2000 you will
understand. It IS today's Healey. No question about it. It's a true two
seater with 142.5HP per liter of displacement. That, my friends, is
totally unheard of in a production car. I have been adding performance
mods to it as I go. I have not had that desire in years.
I understand the Datsun 2000 and the Miata. They are really trick little
cars.
Bob Denton
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 10:58:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Level Indicator Resistance
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
> >I know this has been covered before, but the list archive is down. What
> >should the resistance range be for the sender be?
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From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 11:28:49 -0500
Subject: Copyrights
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from 1962 called "Winning Ways."
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 11:47:07 EST
Subject: BMC on Speed Channel (ne Speedvision)
I can't access the Speedvision schedule right now, but I recommend checking
the schedule to see if this particular film is being run again this week.
Well worth catching and taping.
Incidentally, with all the changes in ownership and emphasis, when you go up
on the Speedvision web site to check the schedule, take the time to send them
an email telling them that you want as much vintage car stuff as possible, so
that they don't cave in entirely to other pressures and become the all-Nascar
all-the-time channel.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:56:17 -0600
Subject: Copyrights
Bill: Correct me if I'm wrong, (Jim Hill) but I don't think copyrights have a
"shelf life" like patents. I think they are en perpetuem.
There is such as thing as "ad valorem" or added value, however. If you take a
copyrighted item and add signigicant value by doing something on your own, then
you have the right to sell that item. (Correct me if I'm wrong, Jim).
Don
BN7
Don
BN7
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 12:40:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Rice-Burners x-mac-creator=
I think this is symptomatic of what is wrong with some aspects of the Healey
community.
Many, if not most Healey owners no longer represent the skinned knuckes, work
on my own car bunch. Too bad really.
I wonder...Of the members of this list, how many work on your own cars? I don't
mean changing the oil, replacing wipers, or greasing splines. I mean WORK on
the car. How many are ready to pull the tranny, rebuild a front end, do a
complete brake job, etc. etc.
Fred
PS All this flaunting is cute, but unimpressive. Boulevard Ferraris and so on
may be interesting to some, but they are hardly the thoroughbreds that forged
the legend, nor continue it. Mr. Ferrari sold those merely to be able to
continue building the real Ferrari's
On Wed, 06 Feb 2002 11:00:24 -0500 " wrote:
I too have a Ferrari. Actually, I
have eleven cars, .
Two year ago, I bought a Honda S2000...
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 12:48:14 -0500
Subject: Haynes manual for 3000
Try Books4Cars.com. They are located in Seattle,WA. I purchased mine there
recently for $29. This book was in great shape except for a small grease
mark on the cover........
Cheers,
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 13:10:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Rice-Burners x-mac-creator=
As far as boulevard Ferraris, there ain't no such thing. Unless, of course, a
BJ8 is a boulevard Healey. It's progress, progression, or what ever you call
it. But boulevard it ain't.
BTW skinned knuckles are symptomatic, not problematic. Sign of either a clumsy
or angry mechanic.
Bob Denton
busyrider@springmail.com wrote:
> This is not meant as a flame, just a comment, an observation.
>
> I think this is symptomatic of what is wrong with some aspects of the Healey
>community.
>
> Many, if not most Healey owners no longer represent the skinned knuckes, work
>on my own car bunch. Too bad really.
>
> I wonder...Of the members of this list, how many work on your own cars? I
>don't mean changing the oil, replacing wipers, or greasing splines. I mean
>WORK on the car. How many are ready to pull the tranny, rebuild a front end,
>do a complete brake job, etc. etc.
>
> Fred
>
> PS All this flaunting is cute, but unimpressive. Boulevard Ferraris and so
>on may be interesting to some, but they are hardly the thoroughbreds that
>forged the legend, nor continue it. Mr. Ferrari sold those merely to be able
>to continue building the real Ferrari's
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:27:33 -0800
Subject: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 13:36:18 EST
Subject: headlight stoneguards
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 11:32:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
Comparing with my Halon extinguisher, 2.5 lb. and B:C size 1, I would
bet yours was half as big;-) Maybe there isn't a size for less than
one? The next size up should fit in a Healey.
-Roland
On Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:27:33 -0800, "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com> wrote:
::
:: Remember last week's discussion of fire extinguishers? Well, I just received
:: my Halon extinguisher (H3R, Inc.) this morning. It appears to be pretty
:: small. The entire unit, including bottle and trigger mechanism stands about
:: 10" tall and contains 1.25 lb of Halon. Aesthetically, I like the compact
:: size and look. But is it large enough to handle most emergencies that I
:: might encounter in the garage or on the road?
:: I ordered this size because of the price of Halon. But if a larger size is
:: more sensible............ Anyone?
:: Thanks.
:: Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 12:07:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
> What is its rating? 2 B:C or 1 B:C? It has to have some such
> rating, and there should be some certification of it. That way you
> can compare it to the dry powder extinguishers in fire fighting power.
> Little dry powder extinguishers are 2 B:C if I remember right.
>
> Comparing with my Halon extinguisher, 2.5 lb. and B:C size 1, I would
> bet yours was half as big;-) Maybe there isn't a size for less than
> one? The next size up should fit in a Healey.
>
> -Roland
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 12:43:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:27 AM
Subject: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
> Remember last week's discussion of fire extinguishers? Well, I just
received
> my Halon extinguisher (H3R, Inc.) this morning. It appears to be pretty
> small. The entire unit, including bottle and trigger mechanism stands
about
> 10" tall and contains 1.25 lb of Halon. Aesthetically, I like the compact
> size and look. But is it large enough to handle most emergencies that I
> might encounter in the garage or on the road?
> I ordered this size because of the price of Halon. But if a larger size is
> more sensible............ Anyone?
> Thanks.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 16:16:04 -0500
Subject: Chrome spears
Andy
Brit in NJ, '67 BJ8
New guy suggestion: move to use www.vBulletin.com software, as in
http://www.bmwm5.com/vbulletin/index.php ???
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 15:30:55 -0600
Subject: Re: ebrake bolt size
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From bob Townsend <bobt at net66.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 15:39:26 -0800
Subject: Don't make me sell these on E-bay!
The 1955 BN-1 originally came from Oregon, and has been in Illinois
since December of 2000. It is an extremely attractive car, and needs
very little. The colors are not original, and would not be a concours
car if it were to be judged on originality. However, it would most
likely do well in a "Peoples Choice" type of show. It is red over
white, and the tires, wires, top, toneau, and interior are all very
good. I took it over to the Hillclimb for Antique cars in Newport,
Indiana in October, and set a record for it's class. I am asking
$19,000. for it.
The 1956 BN-2 is one that I have had for about 15 years, and is only a
few hours away from becoming a good driver. Some work is needed to
make it driveable again. The frame is very solid, as is the body. It
has new tires, brakes, toneau, top, &. fuel pump. The interior ,
although like new, does have a few scratches where the cat worked on
it. It would take very little work to make this into a good driver. I
am asking $11,000.
If anyone would like to see pictures, E-mail me, and I will give
instructions on how to view the pictures.
The cars are located in East Central Illinois, Near Urbana. Delivery
might be an option for expenses.
Bob Townsend
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 15:52:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 15:59:49 -0600
Subject: Halon extinguisher - FYI
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 17:37:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
Thanks, Carlos
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>; "Herman"
<herman@capitalhealeys.org>
Cc: "Scot K. Paulson" <70633.434@compuserve.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
> You can get brand new reprints directly from Haynes Ltd. in the UK. They
> released a new print about three months ago. They are not available
retail
> in the US but are available through their UK web site.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:44:31 -0800
Subject: Registrations at Lake Tahoe International
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From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 20:10:48 -0500
Subject: headlight stoneguards
Tom
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 17:45:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 17:54:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Chrome spears
Many people just mount them up backwards. They assume
since the drop angle on the fat end of the spear seems
to mirror the swage line drop at the front wheel well,
that the fat end must go forward.
But over the years I have come to learn this:
It is typically first time & novice healey owners that
make this mistake. Once you've had the healey for a
few years, you realize that it's supposed to be the
other way.
Owners of 100-4s know that you can only mount them up
one way, fat end to the back - because there's a big
gaping vent hole in the front fender and if you mount
it the other way (fat end forwards), you'll see the
vent hole and it'll look very stupid. If you notice,
it is only on the six cylinder cars that the fender
spears are all mixed up.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com> wrote:
> I'm new to this mailing list and to Austin Healey
> ownership ... I checked
> the archives but the search engine didn't pull up
> anything for "chrome
> spears" ... maybe that is not what they are called.
> Anyway, I'm referring to
> the chrome accents on the fenders ... why is it that
> some cars have the
> chrome spears in reverse (large end towards the
> front)? There are too many
> for it to be a mistake, no?
>
> Andy
> Brit in NJ, '67 BJ8
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:13:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
It's still a good idea, however, to have a 5 B:C in
the boot just incase the little guy upr front runs out
too fast. I keep my 5 B:C halon in the trunk between
the gas tank and the back end of the car - I figger if
I get rear ended hard enough to puncture the
extinguisher, then it may reduce the chance of tank
explosion a la '74 pinto hatchback. But then again if
I get hit that hard I'll probably be dead!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net> wrote:
> The "1B" :C rating means that the the average
> untrained person should be
> able to extinguish a flammable lquid fire that is
> "1" square foot in size. A
> "2" rating means 2 sq. ft. The C indicates that he
> extinguisher is capable
> of extinguishing an electrical fire from a non
> energized electrical source.
> Mark Fawcett
> Senior Fire Inspector
> Torrance Fire Dept
> 59 BT7
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:27 AM
> Subject: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
>
>
> > Remember last week's discussion of fire
> extinguishers? Well, I just
> received
> > my Halon extinguisher (H3R, Inc.) this morning. It
> appears to be pretty
> > small. The entire unit, including bottle and
> trigger mechanism stands
> about
> > 10" tall and contains 1.25 lb of Halon.
> Aesthetically, I like the compact
> > size and look. But is it large enough to handle
> most emergencies that I
> > might encounter in the garage or on the road?
> > I ordered this size because of the price of Halon.
> But if a larger size is
> > more sensible............ Anyone?
> > Thanks.
> > Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:16:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
Bad photos
Innaccurate specs.
A "shade-tree" mechanics approach--"Every manual based on a complete
tear-down and rebuild" (by folks who might be great mechanics but I bet it's
the first time the ever SAW a Healey.)
I have had several Haynes over the year for various makes and have always
been disappointed with them. I might pay original retail for a Haynes,
which was 12-15 bucks as I recall, but not inflated ebay grease-stained
prices. A Chilton's or a Motors would be a better investment, but as with
Bob, I haven't found a better reference than the Bentley.
I realize there will be disagreement but that's my 0.02,
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
> Just wondering, what does the Haynes manual provide that the
> Bentley's doesn't?
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 19:00:30 -0700
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Oliver and Bill and all,
>
> Have bolt on Minilite repros by Compomotive on the BN7. Love 'em!!! Car is
> smooth as a baby's butt at any speed.
>
> For a view of them go to
> http://www.comp.co.uk/index2.htm
> select compomotive technology system
> then motorsport
> then ML
>
> The 6 x 15 wheels were about $175 a couple years ago. Downside is finding
> the bolt on hubs for the front and you will probably need spacer/adapter for
> the rear. I had to have 1.25 inch ones for clearance on the Yoko A321. Can
> give you a contact on that if you wish.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 19:03:24 -0700
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
Bill Lawrence
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> Bumpers on cars may be an afterthought of the designers but as far as
> California is concerned, if the car was built with them and was equiped with
> them at the time the car was first sold and registered, they gotta be on the
> car (Div. 12, Article 11.5, 28071). The state is also cracking down on
> front license plates. They gotta be there, too. They want it to show up in
> the picture they take when you run that red light. Smile for the camera!
> :-)
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> Let's face it, the
> > bumpers on practically all great
> > cars are an afterthought.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 19:09:34 -0700
Subject: Re: 1958 BN4 Millemiglia???????x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Bill Lawrence
Robert Denton wrote:
> another ebay puzzle. Does this guy really believe this story? If he
> does, I've got a bridge for to drive across, as long as he buys the
> bridge first.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=601548437
>
> Was this discussed on the list before and I missed it?
>
> Bob Denton
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:28:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 240Z A Healey Copy?
During the Eureka Meet in 1976, while Donald Healey was chatting wth a
group in the Red Lion lobby, he stated that Nissan Corporation had
bought two big Healeys and the cars were never seen again.
I have heard that the Datsun Z's inline six can be bolted into a big
Healey with many fittings lining right up, compared to other
manufacturer's engines.
Their designers may have used the two big Healeys as a basis of the
240Z.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:32:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Your extinguisher isn't halon
I am very interested in getting one.
How much did it cost and where did you get it?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Coop1 <coop1@dnai.com> wrote:
> Remember last week's discussion of fire
> extinguishers? Well, I just received
> my Halon extinguisher (H3R, Inc.) this morning. It
> appears to be pretty
> small. The entire unit, including bottle and trigger
> mechanism stands about
> 10" tall and contains 1.25 lb of Halon.
> Aesthetically, I like the compact
> size and look. But is it large enough to handle most
> emergencies that I
> might encounter in the garage or on the road?
> I ordered this size because of the price of Halon.
> But if a larger size is
> more sensible............ Anyone?
> Thanks.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 21:33:07 EST
Subject: Re: 240Z A Healey Copy?
<< Their designers may have used the two big Healeys as a basis of the
240Z. >>
They completely stole from the Healeys things like Independent rear
suspension, cross flow head design, GT coupe/fastback body, etc. ; )
Rick
San Diego
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:39:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
As someone who has the chiltons, motors, haynes, and
factory manuals for the healey, I have to say the
chiltons and motors are pretty far down the list for
usefulness - Chiltons at or below the very bottom.
Maybe your experience with Haynes for other cars is
pretty bad, but for the healey it seems to be very
well put together & accurate. Chiltons better than
Haynes? ... you must be mad!
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Hart <jgh3rd@jps.net> wrote:
> IMHO, the Haynes manual adds:
>
> Bad photos
> Innaccurate specs.
> A "shade-tree" mechanics approach--"Every manual
> based on a complete
> tear-down and rebuild" (by folks who might be great
> mechanics but I bet it's
> the first time the ever SAW a Healey.)
>
> I have had several Haynes over the year for various
> makes and have always
> been disappointed with them. I might pay original
> retail for a Haynes,
> which was 12-15 bucks as I recall, but not inflated
> ebay grease-stained
> prices. A Chilton's or a Motors would be a better
> investment, but as with
> Bob, I haven't found a better reference than the
> Bentley.
>
> I realize there will be disagreement but that's my
> 0.02,
>
> Jim '62 BT7
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
>
>
> > Just wondering, what does the Haynes manual
> provide that the
> > Bentley's doesn't?
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
*****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M
> (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> >
>
*****************************************************
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 21:54:35 -0500
Subject: RICE BURNERS
Let me know when the next "Afghan Car Day" is scheduled.
Thanks in advance,
Charley
100-4
Jeep
Olds
3000 parts (number not car type)
2 - lawnmowers
4 - bicycles
1 - son
1 - daughter
1 - wife
1 - attitude; good - actually
OK, let it fly !! CB
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From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:57:03 -0800
Subject: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
I am in the middle of a little bit of a conundrum and was hoping to get some
insight. My 1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 is a family treasure. In fact it
may be the only Wilson family treasure :) Recently handed down from Father
to son... I now bare the responsibility to maintain and continue restoring
this very presentable and nice driver. I always intend to drive this car...
not necessarily restore it to show condition. However my gut has always led
me to put this back to original... or at least as original as possible
without loosing sleep.
Back in 1976, shortly after my Dad bought the car, he took a transmission
from a 1965 BJ8 parts car and switched out the side shift Transmission for
the more desireable centershift. AT least more desireable to him. He kept
the side shift that's original to the car and I recently had it shipped to
me. Today the 1965 Transmission is running along pretty well. Of course
it's a little loud in First Gear but otherwise it runs fine. Additionally
the 1965 Transmission has a working overdrive whereas the 1961 Sideshift
Transmission doesn't have OD at all. The car was originally a non-OD car
and thereby has the 3:54 rear end.
All this being said I am presently in the hunt for the correct Laygear and
First Gear for my 1961 Non-OD Transmission. There's one on eBay... which is
prompting these questions:
1.) If you guys were me... would you opt for returning the car to the way
it was, with the 1961 Transmission, or work on getting the appropriate gears
to restore the 1965 transmission?
2.) The Laygear of eBay is PN# AEC 3359. I opened the side of my 1961
Transmission... the Laygear PN is: AEC3616. Does that mean that 3359 is
the WRONG gear for my transmission? It looks like it does.
3.) For those of you out there running non OD 4 Speed Transmissions
(assuming you have the 3:54 rear) how does it drive? Good at highway
speeds? Is it remotely comparable to an OD car or is the difference night
and day?
Last Question -
4.) Does anyone have any good ideas as to where I could find the
appropriate Laygear and First Gear for whichever transmission I decide to
refurbish. I know this is a tough one!
The way I see it the search for these gears may take some time. I am
looking for a project for Summer 2002 and just thought I might get the
groundwork going.
Any input is deeply appreciated.
Best Regards,
Matt-
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From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:17:13 -0600
Subject: Re: 240Z A Healey Copy?
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/6/02 19:30:41, pcowper@webtv.net writes:
>
> << Their designers may have used the two big Healeys as a basis of the
> 240Z. >>
>
> They completely stole from the Healeys things like Independent rear
> suspension, cross flow head design, GT coupe/fastback body, etc. ; )
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:22:42 -0800
Subject: extinguisher
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:34:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
The point is, the more books, the bettter as there are slightly different
emphasis madeby the publishers. Autopress has a very good technical section
with measurements ad nauseum, Haynes has many more fotos than any other
book, Clymer is VERY wordy and really explains functions of the various
systems and Chilton (at least the one I have) covers every model from 1956
to 1969 including the Sprites and Austin America. I don't use the Autobook
publication.
As far as Bentley is concerned, it is a reprint of the Factory Workshop
Manual however, there are some sections left out and some abbreviated when
compared to the original Factory Workshop Manual that I have.
If I had my druthers anad weren't a collecter, I would keep three books --
my original Workshop Manual, Haynes and Clymer.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "James Hart" <jgh3rd@jps.net>; "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
> James -
>
> As someone who has the chiltons, motors, haynes, and
> factory manuals for the healey, I have to say the
> chiltons and motors are pretty far down the list for
> usefulness - Chiltons at or below the very bottom.
>
> Maybe your experience with Haynes for other cars is
> pretty bad, but for the healey it seems to be very
> well put together & accurate. Chiltons better than
> Haynes? ... you must be mad!
>
> Cheers!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- James Hart <jgh3rd@jps.net> wrote:
> > IMHO, the Haynes manual adds:
> >
> > Bad photos
> > Innaccurate specs.
> > A "shade-tree" mechanics approach--"Every manual
> > based on a complete
> > tear-down and rebuild" (by folks who might be great
> > mechanics but I bet it's
> > the first time the ever SAW a Healey.)
> >
> > I have had several Haynes over the year for various
> > makes and have always
> > been disappointed with them. I might pay original
> > retail for a Haynes,
> > which was 12-15 bucks as I recall, but not inflated
> > ebay grease-stained
> > prices. A Chilton's or a Motors would be a better
> > investment, but as with
> > Bob, I haven't found a better reference than the
> > Bentley.
> >
> > I realize there will be disagreement but that's my
> > 0.02,
> >
> > Jim '62 BT7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 21:38:23 -0600
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:48:12 EST
Subject: Master cylinder sleeving recomendation needed.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:48:54 -0500
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
Bill, apparently you missed the part about bolt on. With the bolt on the
wheel does not stand out as far from the body as with the spline drive. In
order to mount the rear wheels I would have had to replace the entire rear
end with a nonOD rear end, replace the rear wheel studs with about 1 inch
longer, or get the adapter. I search for the studs but they were not to be
found in 7/16 and the needed length. The offset which Compomotive can do is
from 0 up to 22 mm. The guy said that he found that big Healeys were best
suited to 18 mm, although mine seem to be more like 15 mm.
The downside to any wider wheel in is that you may not be
> able to get the spare to fit in the right place. That's especially true
with
> the two seaters.
On the spare I bought a steel wheel for a nonOD car and mounted a used 165 x
15. Fits in the spare tire "pocket" for the 2 seater just fine.
I plan to adopt the space saver spare tactic. by carrying a 48
> spoke wire with a normal tire to use for emergencies only.
>
> Bill Lawrence
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 21:52:49 -0600
Subject: Re: RICE BURNERS
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:58:59 EST
Subject: Re: Master cylinder sleeving recomendation needed.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Reid Trummel" <healeys@healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:07:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 20:27:33 -0800
Subject: extinguisher
> there seems to be a lot of chatter about fire extinguisher,do these healey
get that hot.also what is your thinging about plastic fuel filters,should
they be located with the motor or near the fuel pump thank Stephen
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 20:28:23 -0800
Subject: Master cylinder sleeving recomendation needed.
> Hi Gang,
> Just picked up a 65 Sprite, it needs to have the tandem master
cylinder
> sleeved due to rust pits. Who has any recommendations. WhitePost wants
$225
> to do a complete rebuild, Apple is $175 to sleeve and Sierra is $100.
Anyone
> have any comments good or bad on these suppliers or can recommend another
> alternative.
> Thanks,
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
> 59 BN4
> 59 AN5
> 65 AN8
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 20:28:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Master cylinder sleeving recomendation needed.
Send the master and its pistons to me, I'll take it to Eric Lavell, an
independent local machinist who has been doing these for more years than he
likes to think about. He produces only the highest quality work. He will
bead blast it, bore it out, and resleeve it in rotocast bronze. You'll never
have to worry about corrosion again.
I just had my Sprite's master done a couple of weeks ago, and he charged me
$118 *Canadian*, which is around $80 US.
I have no personal interest, but I can assure you that Eric is *very* good.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 7:48 PM
Subject: Master cylinder sleeving recomendation needed.
> Hi Gang,
> Just picked up a 65 Sprite, it needs to have the tandem master
cylinder
> sleeved due to rust pits. Who has any recommendations. WhitePost wants
$225
> to do a complete rebuild, Apple is $175 to sleeve and Sierra is $100.
Anyone
> have any comments good or bad on these suppliers or can recommend another
> alternative.
> Thanks,
> Peter Samaroo
> Charlotte NC
> 59 BN4
> 59 AN5
> 65 AN8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 23:44:50 -0500
Subject: RICE BURNERS / Daughter
Her old man is into Healeys; she already knows how strange that gets.
You can say; "HI, I e-talk to your Dad on the internet, want to go for a
ride in a car that
--------- finish the sentence.
Good Luck,
Charley
maybe 4000 parts !!
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From Fred Meyer <kerowako at attbi.com>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 20:46:30 +0000
Subject: Chrome Recommendations?
I would appreciate hearing any recommendations for high quality chrome
plating shops, preferably in the SF Bay Area.
Thanks-
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
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From "Clyde Stutzman" <clyde.stutzman at worldnet.att.net>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:45:11 -0600
Subject: RE: Chrome spears
Not all of them. I have a 100-4, with original fenders, that have NO vent
holes in either fender.
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 21:18:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 240Z a Healey Copy?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:17:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Driving with a tonneau
Bill Lawrence
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Gee Don
>
> Yes, but the initial magnet is the car, but you could get real
> lucky if she forgot her contacts!
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
>
> Don Yarber wrote:
> >
> > Hi Lee:
> >
> > It is the driver, not the car, that is the chick magnet.
> > The question is "How old of a hen are you willing to settle for?"
> >
> > Best wishes.
> >
> > Don
> > BN7
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:06:40 -0800
Subject: Re: 240Z a Healey Copy?
The Dodge Viper? That's laughable. I desired a Healey for 25 years before
I owned one. If some one GAVE me a Viper I would sell it and give the money
to charity, and feel like I had perpetuated a hoax all the while.
UGH!
Please tell me this was a joke.
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper@webtv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: 240Z a Healey Copy?
> . . . I've always thought that the Dodge Viper was the only possible
> candidate to capture the "robustness" of the Big Healey.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:20:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 240Z a Healey Copy?
The exterior & rear end of the 240Z was styled as an
update to the E-Type, not the Healey. Only the
mechanicals (engine) were styled after the healey. It
was in "spirit" of the healey was to provide jaguar
performance at an affordable price -> that's where the
240Z and Healey are the same. + the fact all the HD8s
in junkyards during the 80's were stolen by 240Z
owners looking for performance!
Alan
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> . . . I've always thought that the Dodge Viper was
> the only possible
> candidate to capture the "robustness" of the Big
> Healey.
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 23:09:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Chrome spears
Bill Lawrence
Andy Phillips wrote:
> I'm new to this mailing list and to Austin Healey ownership ... I checked
> the archives but the search engine didn't pull up anything for "chrome
> spears" ... maybe that is not what they are called. Anyway, I'm referring to
> the chrome accents on the fenders ... why is it that some cars have the
> chrome spears in reverse (large end towards the front)? There are too many
> for it to be a mistake, no?
>
> Andy
> Brit in NJ, '67 BJ8
>
> New guy suggestion: move to use www.vBulletin.com software, as in
> http://www.bmwm5.com/vbulletin/index.php ???
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <HundredSix@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 23:28:01 -0700
Subject: Re: HNDRD 6
I understood the bolt on part and was merely talking about the alternative I
chose. I spent more money on wheels but didn't any need adapters. I did replace
the hubs, but that may not always be necessary. I like the look of the center
locks and they are a little more convenient for removal and fitting, but may
not pay back as quickly.
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> > I'm trying to remember what I paid for my set of center lock Panasports
> and as
> > I recall it was about $325 each. However you won't need to buy or
> fabricate any
> > adapters. I justified it to myself by thinking of all the 48 spokers I
> won't
> > have to buy in the future (especially if I can remember to keep the
> splines
> > clean and lubed).
>
> Bill, apparently you missed the part about bolt on. With the bolt on the
> wheel does not stand out as far from the body as with the spline drive. In
> order to mount the rear wheels I would have had to replace the entire rear
> end with a nonOD rear end, replace the rear wheel studs with about 1 inch
> longer, or get the adapter. I search for the studs but they were not to be
> found in 7/16 and the needed length. The offset which Compomotive can do is
> from 0 up to 22 mm. The guy said that he found that big Healeys were best
> suited to 18 mm, although mine seem to be more like 15 mm.
>
> The downside to any wider wheel in is that you may not be
> > able to get the spare to fit in the right place. That's especially true
> with
> > the two seaters.
>
> On the spare I bought a steel wheel for a nonOD car and mounted a used 165 x
> 15. Fits in the spare tire "pocket" for the 2 seater just fine.
>
> I plan to adopt the space saver spare tactic. by carrying a 48
> > spoke wire with a normal tire to use for emergencies only.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
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From Raymond Feehan <feehanr at shaw.ca>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 00:19:50 -0700
Subject: skinned knuckles
IMHO mechanics who never suffered skinned knuckles are rarer than hen's teeth.
Mine were due to clumsiness. I only got angry after I skinned them.
RaydoalltheworkonmyHealeyandloveitFeehan.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 22:19:07 +1100
Subject: Re: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
<snickering> don't get all worried about the *size* of your *extinguisher* -
concentrate on knowing how to use it properly..........</snickering>
Here in Australia - most Healey owners have .9 Kg (2 pounds) *extinguishers*
.......because that's the minimum size the CAMS manual says you need in a
production based car used in motorsport. Formula cars need 5Kg (11 pounds)
Sorry - couldn't resist that! : )
Chris
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:27 AM
> > Subject: Is my Halon extinguisher too small?
> >
> >
> > > Remember last week's discussion of fire
> > extinguishers? Well, I just
> > received
> > > my Halon extinguisher (H3R, Inc.) this morning. It
> > appears to be pretty
> > > small. The entire unit, including bottle and
> > trigger mechanism stands
> > about
> > > 10" tall and contains 1.25 lb of Halon.
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From Jorge Garcia <fortee9er at yahoo.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 05:54:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 240Z a Healey Copy?
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 09:09:10 -0500
Subject: Looking for used Haynes manual
Please contact me off the list.
Herman
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From "Paul Leeks" <paul_leeks at hotmail.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 14:24:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Chrome spears
A PO of my 100/6 did the same thing and mounted the spears backwards.
Unfortunately they have left an indentation in the paint underneath. So,
short of a respray, I will live with them this way round.
After all who's going to notice ... :-)
Cheers
Paul Leeks
Lancashire
1957 100/6
>
>Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 17:54:23 -0800 (PST)
>From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: Chrome spears
>
>Andy -
>
>Many people just mount them up backwards. They assume
>since the drop angle on the fat end of the spear seems
>to mirror the swage line drop at the front wheel well,
>that the fat end must go forward.
>
>But over the years I have come to learn this:
>
>It is typically first time & novice healey owners that
>make this mistake. Once you've had the healey for a
>few years, you realize that it's supposed to be the
>other way.
>
>Owners of 100-4s know that you can only mount them up
>one way, fat end to the back - because there's a big
>gaping vent hole in the front fender and if you mount
>it the other way (fat end forwards), you'll see the
>vent hole and it'll look very stupid. If you notice,
>it is only on the six cylinder cars that the fender
>spears are all mixed up.
>
>Regards,
>
>Alan
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 09:27:46 -0500
Subject: FW: RICE BURNERS
61BN7
97 Ram 1500 (gas hog) see below...
90 Subaru Legacy (yep I drive one) over 138,000 miles and still running like
new.
I too have
1 - son
1 - daughter (professional football player with the Philadelphia Liberty
Belles) Still hasn't gotten paid.. but they love the game..
Have a good one..
Steve
> Sorry!! I won't bring that subject up again.
>
> Let me know when the next "Afghan Car Day" is scheduled.
Thanks in advance,
Charley
100-4
Jeep
Olds
3000 parts (number not car type)
2 - lawnmowers
4 - bicycles
1 - son
1 - daughter
1 - wife
1 - attitude; good - actually
OK, let it fly !! CB
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 06:28:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
My feeling is that when the car becomes too valuable
to drive, I'll put back the non-OD transmission.
Until then I will enjoy the long drives up the
coast...
Dean
> 3.) For those of you out there running non OD 4
> Speed Transmissions
> (assuming you have the 3:54 rear) how does it drive?
> Good at highway
> speeds? Is it remotely comparable to an OD car or
> is the difference night
> and day?
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 10:27:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Chrome spears
"... and some do it intentionally out of some need to make a statement,
establish their individuality or tweak those who know better."
... that was kind of what I was thinking. I've seen too many round the wrong
way for there not to have been one deliberate one ... I actually was
thinking there was a special club I didn't know about and the members had
the flashes/spears round the wrong way so they knew who they were.
My car doesn't arrive until Saturday, but already I'm enjoying this Healey
thing! So far I've learned quite a bit just from this list ...
240Z (the healey was the inspiration for the Datsun 2000 which preceded it
in 1963. Just look at the front
http://www.datsun.org/roadster/info/modelguide/front.html
Andy
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 10:13:27 -0500
Subject: lucas
Steve
61BN7
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from selling to anyone who owns a car that leaves oil spots!
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 11:27:00 -0500
Subject: Re: lucas
However, doesn't California have a drastic energy crisis and the entire
state could be called the Prince of Darkness so perhaps there is a
connection after all!
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
> I just saw an 18 wheeler with a huge ad on the trailer for Lucas Oil
> Stabilizer.. sort of struck me funny, "Lucas prince of darkness".. and now
> they want to stabilize what we leave on the garage floor.... ;-) I know,
> not related.. but still funny. There web site is www.lucasoil.com if
> interested.
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
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From "Brian Davies" <mrnice3000 at hotmail.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 17:10:09 +0000
Subject: Drop in Oil pressure
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From "Scott Helms" <austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 10:36:20 -0700
Subject: Re: 240Z A Healey Copy?
Hi,
Copy of the Healey? No. The 240Z is, among other
better known reasons, what drove the Triumph GT6 to
extinction. Put the two side by side, and you'll
see a very strong resemblence. Compare the overall
design, sticker price, performance, dealer network,
quality, etc....., and you'll understand why the
Datsun was so poplular.
Scott Helms
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 12:53:01 EST
Subject: Re: Haynes manual for 3000
<< Just wondering, what does the Haynes manual provide that the
Bentley's doesn't?
Bob >>
Different pictures; different wording of explanations on how to do things. I
find that if I'm wandering into a new area of repair, if I RTFM both the
Haynes and the Bentley manual before starting, I'm much better informed.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Terry Brunner" <brunner at premier1.net>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 10:05:32 -0800
Subject: A word of appreciation
Terry Brunner
67BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 13:08:36 EST
Subject: Re: A word of appreciation
Almost makes me want to give something away.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 13:26:10 EST
Subject: Re: Chrome spears
<< Not all of them. I have a 100-4, with original fenders, that have NO vent
holes in either fender. >>
OK, I'll bite -- what's the car serial number? Also, is there any evidence
that the fenders on your car were originally molded with a swage line all the
way to the bottom and then leaded in to cover the indentation?
Cheers
Gary
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: Raymond Feehan
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 10:34:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 240Z A Healey Copy?
"Made in Japan" used to be a disparaging remark in
itself in the years following World War II when Japan
was turning out a lot of flimsy, junk products.
However, by about the 1960s and certainly by the 1970s
that perception was changing as the quality of
Japanese products improved.
I'm not sure that I'd want to have to make the case
that the 240Z was a "copy" of the big Healey, but with
it's six-cylinder engine and SU carbs and comparable
size and target audience, it was seen as a rival for
the Healey in some peoples' perception.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: healeys@autoxteam.net
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 07:46:22 +1300
Subject: RE: Drop in Oil pressure
Mike Salter
(In New Zealand looking for Minis)
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 6:10 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Drop in Oil pressure
I rebuilt my 3000 engine but have a problem maintaining oil pressure. At
start up (cold) pressure is 50psi, when engine gets to normal operating
temperature it goes down to about 10psi at tickover, 20-25 at cruising
speeds. In summer (hot) at tickover 0psi. I replaced oil pump, releif
valve
& tried another gauge, but its still the same. Someone suggested that
its
due to worn cam bearings (I did'nt replace them). Could this be the
cause?
I've done >5000miles, its still the same. No 'knocking'- yet!
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 20:07:15 -0000
Subject: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
Dear Healey Discussion Board-
I am in the middle of a little bit of a conundrum and was hoping
to get some
insight. My 1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 is a family treasure.
In fact it
may be the only Wilson family treasure :) Recently handed down
from Father
to son... I now bare the responsibility to maintain and continue
restoring
this very presentable and nice driver.
[S.D.Lachlan] A nice sentiment.
I always intend to drive this car...
not necessarily restore it to show condition.
[S.D.Lachlan] Ditto. I have a BT7. It's very presentable, but I
can't be bothered with the last 5% of work, which takes 95% of
the time, to get it to concours.
However my gut has always led
me to put this back to original... or at least as original as
possible
without loosing sleep.
Back in 1976, shortly after my Dad bought the car, he took a
transmission
from a 1965 BJ8 parts car and switched out the side shift
Transmission for
the more desireable centershift.
[S.D.Lachlan] Wise man.
AT least more desireable to him. He kept
the side shift that's original to the car
[S.D.Lachlan] Wiser man still.
and I recently had it shipped to
me.
[S.D.Lachlan] Keep it; look after it and don't use it.
Today the 1965 Transmission is running along pretty well. Of
course
it's a little loud in First Gear but otherwise it runs fine.
[S.D.Lachlan] Typical. My first BT7 had a really noisy gearbox in
first and I never fixed it. After 4 years, it was still noisy,
but no worse. My second BT7, late car thus with centre shift, was
noisy too. I took box out myself, but had it professionally
rebuilt.
Additionally
the 1965 Transmission has a working overdrive whereas the 1961
Sideshift
Transmission doesn't have OD at all. The car was originally a
non-OD car
and thereby has the 3:54 rear end.
[S.D.Lachlan] I think OD is very well worth having, particularly
as it enables one to cruise at today's speeds without strain.
Particularly with that ratio rear end.
All this being said I am presently in the hunt for the correct
Laygear and
First Gear for my 1961 Non-OD Transmission. There's one on
eBay... which is
prompting these questions:
1.) If you guys were me... would you opt for returning the car
to the way
it was, with the 1961 Transmission, or work on getting the
appropriate gears
to restore the 1965 transmission?
[S.D.Lachlan] The latter.
2.) The Laygear of eBay is PN# AEC 3359. I opened the side of
my 1961
Transmission... the Laygear PN is: AEC3616. Does that mean that
3359 is
the WRONG gear for my transmission? It looks like it does.
[S.D.Lachlan] Not 100%, but 99% sure that the two are not
interchangeable.
3.) For those of you out there running non OD 4 Speed
Transmissions
(assuming you have the 3:54 rear) how does it drive? Good at
highway
speeds? Is it remotely comparable to an OD car or is the
difference night
and day?
[S.D.Lachlan] Don't know for certain. Certainly OD is regarded as
being desirable/an improvement and, although an "extra" when cars
were new, virtually all cars had it. (Like wire wheels).
Last Question -
4.) Does anyone have any good ideas as to where I could find the
appropriate Laygear and First Gear for whichever transmission I
decide to
refurbish. I know this is a tough one!
[S.D.Lachlan] You can get them over here, new and rebuilt. Also
new from Germany. See below, where I have pasted a recent piece
of advice from a reliable source:
Quote: Lately there has been some discussions on the list about
gearboxes.
The laygears are now being reproduced by Limora in Germany. This
company has some cooperation with SC Healey Parts. I4ve heard
that they infact bought SC but I4m not sure if that is correct.
Anyway these laygears are new from scratch and made in Europe,
which sounds reassuring from a quality point of view. If the
quality is as good as they claim, this is the only way to go when
it comes to worn laygears, since the repaired ones don4t last
very long. The welded on first gear on repaired laygears is too
soft.
www.limora.de
........unquote.
The way I see it the search for these gears may take some time.
I am
looking for a project for Summer 2002 and just thought I might
get the
groundwork going.
[S.D.Lachlan] Look to how the transmission tunnels were swapped.
They won't be the same..has the work been done well etcetc? (You
can get a lot of heat in thru an ill-fitting tunnel.
Is the OD wiring good? Is there an "overdrive switch" near the
fuse box to ensure that it comes in/out of OD smoothly at right
revs?
And, is there a cut out switch at the top of gear box, to ensure
that she'll only take OD in 3rd & 4th ? People do by-pass that
switch, thinking it rather nice to have OD in all 4 gears. BUT,
when they forget and engage reverse whilst in OD, they covert
their gearbox into shrapnel.
Any input is deeply appreciated.
Best Regards,
Matt-
[S.D.Lachlan] Bottom line- keep it centre shift. It may only have
missed it by a month or so anyhow. Keep the old box, just in
case.
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 17:54:56 -0800
Subject: axle
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 18:37:04 -0500
Subject: Synthetic brake fluid
We are ready to fill my friend's BJ7 with hydraulic fluid. Being a small time
racer with a rather sophisticated race car, he uses all the trick stuff when
possible. He wants to use synthetic brake fluid (Valvoline I think) in the
BJ7. My preference would be traditional Castrol DOT 3. What are the thoughts
out there? Is the synthetic silicone based?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 16:03:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Synthetic brake fluid
Hi,
Don't know the rules here in the US but back home (Australia) where I
used to race motorbikes you are not allowed to use Glycol products
due to how slippery it is when it leaks. So you must use Silicone
(Dot 4-5).
I am not sure if that helps make your mind up if you are planning on racing.
Have fun
Rohan.
BN4
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From Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 19:30:31 -0500
Subject: Re: 56 BN2 STEERING COLUMN
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 20:07:22 -0500
Subject: Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid
I'm just thick so I'm trying to learn.
Thanks,
Charley
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 21:06:03 -0500
Subject: RE: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
Here is another possibility. Most of the parts in the side shift
and center shift boxes are interchangable. I have an NOS laygear
from a BN/BT7 (I believe it was an AEC 3616 ) in mine where the original was
an
AEC 3649. They changed the ratios a couple of times so you need to move
the gears as a matched set. Also, for a while they were using bushings
instead
of needle bearings on the laygear. Those laygears are not interchangeable
with the ones with needle bearings.
Also, the layshaft on the BJ8 is different from the one on the
earlier cars.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 9:57 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
Dear Healey Discussion Board-
I am in the middle of a little bit of a conundrum and was hoping to get some
insight. My 1961 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 is a family treasure. In fact it
may be the only Wilson family treasure :) Recently handed down from Father
to son... I now bare the responsibility to maintain and continue restoring
this very presentable and nice driver. I always intend to drive this car...
not necessarily restore it to show condition. However my gut has always led
me to put this back to original... or at least as original as possible
without loosing sleep.
Back in 1976, shortly after my Dad bought the car, he took a transmission
from a 1965 BJ8 parts car and switched out the side shift Transmission for
the more desireable centershift. AT least more desireable to him. He kept
the side shift that's original to the car and I recently had it shipped to
me. Today the 1965 Transmission is running along pretty well. Of course
it's a little loud in First Gear but otherwise it runs fine. Additionally
the 1965 Transmission has a working overdrive whereas the 1961 Sideshift
Transmission doesn't have OD at all. The car was originally a non-OD car
and thereby has the 3:54 rear end.
All this being said I am presently in the hunt for the correct Laygear and
First Gear for my 1961 Non-OD Transmission. There's one on eBay... which is
prompting these questions:
1.) If you guys were me... would you opt for returning the car to the way
it was, with the 1961 Transmission, or work on getting the appropriate gears
to restore the 1965 transmission?
2.) The Laygear of eBay is PN# AEC 3359. I opened the side of my 1961
Transmission... the Laygear PN is: AEC3616. Does that mean that 3359 is
the WRONG gear for my transmission? It looks like it does.
3.) For those of you out there running non OD 4 Speed Transmissions
(assuming you have the 3:54 rear) how does it drive? Good at highway
speeds? Is it remotely comparable to an OD car or is the difference night
and day?
Last Question -
4.) Does anyone have any good ideas as to where I could find the
appropriate Laygear and First Gear for whichever transmission I decide to
refurbish. I know this is a tough one!
The way I see it the search for these gears may take some time. I am
looking for a project for Summer 2002 and just thought I might get the
groundwork going.
Any input is deeply appreciated.
Best Regards,
Matt-
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:28:43 +1300
Subject: RE: Drop in Oil pressure- Mike S.
The 6 cyl timing chain tensioner is actually held against the chainby
oil pressure supplied through a small hole in the engine front plate.
The spring and cam are only to hold the tension when the engine is
stopped. A worn tensioner will rob some oil pressure.
Mike Salter
Still looking for minis
-----Original Message-----
From: P.M. Pollock [mailto:pollpete@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 8:49 AM
To: Michael Salter
Subject: Re: Drop in Oil pressure- Mike S.
Michael Salter wrote:
> Did you replace the
> timing chain tensioner?
Mike,
I'm probably missing something obvious, so this will be my chance today
to learn
something new, but how does the timing chain tensioner have an effect
upon oil
pressure?
Regards,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:18:50 -0600
Subject: For sale, GT interior
Will consider trades for Big Healey items.
Mark
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:01:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
Overdrive units will physically interchange BN2 through BJ8.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 9:06 PM
Subject: RE: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
> Matt,
>
> Here is another possibility. Most of the parts in the side shift
> and center shift boxes are interchangable.
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:18:42 -0700
Subject: 1959 BN4
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 07:21:43 -0800
Subject: Early BN1
I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other than the Whitworth
fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes, and the back-assward
shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these early cars relative to
the later ones? How are they to drive?
Thanks in advance,
John
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:41:27 EST
Subject: Early BN1
I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other than the Whitworth
fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes, and the back-assward
shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these early cars relative to
the later ones? How are they to drive?
Thanks in advance,
John
John,
Those are not drawbacks. That's what gives the BN1 character.
Carroll
BN1 # 484
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:05:18 -0800
Subject: getting stuck in the mud / was Driving with a tonneau
I changed BMW with Healey.
Best Chicken Joke Ever
On the farm lived a chicken and a horse, both of whom loved to play
together. One day, the horse fell into a bog and began to sink. The horse
begged for the chicken to go get the farmer for help! The chicken ran back
to the farm. He searched and searched for the farmer, but to no avail, for
he had gone to town with the only tractor. Running around, the chicken spied
the farmer's new BT-7 series Healey. Finding the keys inside, the chicken
sped
off with a length of rope, hoping he still had time to save his friend's
life.
Back at the bog, the horse was surprised, but happy, to see the chicken
arrive in the shiny Healey. He managed to get a hold of the rope the chicken
tossed to him. After tying the other end to the rear bumper of the
farmer's car, the chicken then drove slowly forward and, with the aid of the
powerful car, rescued the horse!
Happy and proud, the chicken drove the Healey back to the farmhouse, and the
farmer was none the wiser when he returned.
The friendship between the two animals was cemented: best buddies, best
pals.
A few weeks later, the chicken fell into a mud pit, and soon he too began to
sink and cried out to the horse to save his life! The horse thought a
moment, walked over, and straddled the large puddle. Looking underneath, he
told the chicken to grab his "thing" and he would then lift him out of the
pit. The chicken got a good grip, and the horse pulled him up and out,
saving his life.
The moral of the story?
When you're hung like a horse, you don't need a Healey to pick up chicks.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7 (nasty boy)
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From rbender9 at juno.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 16:45:09 GMT
Subject: Rally Cars
________________________________________________________________
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 08:56:39 -0800
Subject: New guys/gals to Healeying
Old Healey guys/gals too.
diyautoparts.com
click on Articles,
see, "Doing it yourself" and "Tools to have"
Kirk Kvam
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 12:05:41 EST
Subject: Re: Rally Cars
<< Listers,
I was reading about Healey Rally cars in British Car Magazine, and am looking
for more information. Can anyone out there recommend the best book(s) or
other research sources? I am interested in the specific mechanical and
suspension modifications, beyond the obvious paint scheme, hardtop, wing
vents, etc.
Thanks,
Bob
'62 BJ7 >>
The two best sources I have would be:
The Works Big Healeys by Peter Browning
The Story of the Big Healeys by Geoffrey Healey
While not much is said about the suspension mods except the 14 leaf rear
springs and extra frame gusseting (only mentioned)
Rick
San Diego
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 12:25:33 -0500
Subject: Re:Healey Books
The sale of the books that I listed in a recent post is on hold for the
immediate furture. I apologize for any inconvenience. If and when they
become available I will respond to the previous posts received. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:33:44 -0700
Subject: battery brackets
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 14:44:21 -0500
Subject: Re:Trafficators
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 16:56:31 -0500
Subject: Acrylic Lacquer Suppliers?
I don't think I want to use a more modern paint because of poisonous
vapors (I don't have a fresh air breathing system) and becuse modern
paints can't be color sanded and rubbed-out to look like lacquer. Am I
wrong?
Bill Schmidt
________________________________________________________________
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:24:18 -0600
Subject: Re: getting stuck in the mud / was Driving with a tonneau
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:23:17 -0500
Subject: Removal of rear hubs
I got a call today from Alan, at Alan's Gear Works, that my 3.5 gear set was
installed and ready to come back to me. Now, I need to get on with changing
the rear bearings while the rear end is all torn apart.
The big Sears 2-3/16" socket worked fine to remove the rear hub nuts. What
is the best way to remove the hub? Will a slide hammer work, or would that
provide too much potential to damage the hub?
Thanks!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:41:21 EST
Subject: Motorcycle oil for cars?
In a recent issue of BMW Owners News, fourteen different premium oils were
sent to be analyzed for anti-wear (phosphorus and zinc) and acid neutralizer
additives. The concern is that the EPA has lowered the maximum amount of
phosphorus that is allowed since it may harm catalytic converters. Oil
marketed for motorcycles is exempt.
Here are the results of some of the brands.
Anti-wear (ppm)* Acid neutralizers (ppm) $/qt
Castrol GTX 2139 1525 1.19
Valvoline 1944 1481 1.79
Mobile 1 2550 2196 4.49
Golden Spectro 3511 1290 6.50
BMW M/C 3083 1336 3.49
The conclusion that the magazine reached was that a expensive oil is cheaper
than an engine rebuild.
Dick North
BJ8
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From "John and Marian Barth" <hopi at charter.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:48:44 -0600
Subject: Help Needed - Early Healey
I need a little help. I am missing the entire horn ring and overdrive kickdown
assembly for my 54 Nash Healey. A little research shows that least some of the
parts in the assembly were used in the Austin Atlantic and other cars of that
same vintage. I can send pictures and some part numbers to anyone who can help
me find one. What is in it for you? I have a number of early Healey sales
brochures including several Silverstone, Tickford, Abbot, etc and one early
Healey Hundred piece. Some of which I would be willing to trade.
For all those who drooled over having the early Riled powered Healey on ebay -
just DO IT. They do come up for sale, you just have to keep your eyes open. I
owned one for over 20 years and feel blessed to have had the opportunity. They
are easy to maintain, a joy to drive and the street rod of their day. The car
now belongs to another member of this list, who like me, is probably about
half-a-bubble-off-plumb when it comes to a love for truly unique cars. (Sorry
Bob). They are really a joy to drive and you will meet the true enthusiast,
not just the yuppies who can slap down $$$ to look cool. There is a 54 Nash
Healey on ebay right now - DO IT.
John Barth - Wisconsin
hopi@charter.net
P.S. Bob D. - If I decide to sell the sales brochure with the Healey
Sportsmobile signed by Donald you WILL have first opportunity.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:55:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
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From "Joseph Costa" <ah1953 at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 18:55:55 -0500
Subject: BN1 Carpet
Joe
'53BN1 Coronet Cream
'67BJ8 Healey Blue
_________________________________________________________________
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:02:56 -0600
Subject: Pertronix on DM6 distributor with Neg ground
Anyone out there running the Pertronix Lu-165 for neg ground on a DM6
distributor that can tell me what wires go where on the coil?
Brian Collins
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 19:07:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Pertronix on DM6 distributor with Neg ground
The red Pertronix wire attaches to switched battery positive. I connected
mine to the + side of the coil but any hot with the key point is good. The
black wire attaches to the minus (-) or "CB" (contact breaker) side of the
coil. The only "got ya" is that if you failed to reverse your coil leads
when you converted your car to negative ground your coil could still be
wired wrong..... Just make sure the white (I think) wire from the wiring
harness attaches to the + side of your coil along with the red Pertronix
wire. I put one in my car last fall and it works good.
Mark
Nashville
BN1
I just received my Pertronix Hall Effect unit (#LU-165 for neg ground) for
my Healey. I have a DM6 distributor and have converted to neg ground. I
have read the Pertronix installation guide and wonder if things change when
converting to neg ground. there also.
Anyone out there running the Pertronix Lu-165 for neg ground on a DM6
distributor that can tell me what wires go where on the coil?
Brian Collins
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 20:21:24 EST
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
Has anyone tried the one Hemphills sells? It seems like it might make a good
loaner tool.
I'm also going to get one of Bill Bolton's Overdrive pressure gauges. Any
other suggestions for club purchases of limited use Healey tools?
We have an Engine Hoist, Engine stand purchased at a former members divorce
sale. Plenty of water temperature sending unit sockets.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 18:41:08 -0700
Subject: Re: lucas
"healey6.com" wrote:
> This is a California company. Doubt if it has any connection to Lucas in
> England. And, being a native Californian, I can safely say that the State
> would not put up with anything that pollutes so they are probably prohibited
> from selling to anyone who owns a car that leaves oil spots!
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:13:02 -0500
Subject: RE: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
Is the gearbox casting different on the BJ8? I would
think that if the casting were the same as the other
centershift boxes (including the machined surfaces)
that the gears would fit just fine as long as you
brought over everything including the layshaft. Of course,
if anything is different all bets are off.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of AH102
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 10:01 AM
To: Peter Schauss; Healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
Be careful about the interchangeability of parts in the gearboxes.. True,
many of the internal parts in the side shift and center shift BN7; BT7, and
BJ7 are interchangeable, but I think you'll find that virtually none of the
BJ8 parts will interchange with any of the earlier gearboxes.
Overdrive units will physically interchange BN2 through BJ8.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox.Team.Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 9:06 PM
Subject: RE: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
> Matt,
>
> Here is another possibility. Most of the parts in the side shift
> and center shift boxes are interchangable.
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 19:03:14 -0700
Subject: Re: 56 BN2 STEERING COLUMN
Bill Lawrence
Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com wrote:
> Where can I see a good schematic of the hub end of the adjustable steering
> column. I have backed off the locking nut and am trying to remove the hub,
> however, I would like to turn it in the proper direction or obtain the
> proper instructions for its removal. Thanks.
>
> BOB COATES
> REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 19:04:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Synthetic brake fluid
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> I know the discussion has been made multiple times about DOT 3 vs. silicone
> based brake fluid. And the concensus is always the same, there is none! But
> this is a bit different, I think.
>
> We are ready to fill my friend's BJ7 with hydraulic fluid. Being a small time
> racer with a rather sophisticated race car, he uses all the trick stuff when
> possible. He wants to use synthetic brake fluid (Valvoline I think) in the
> BJ7. My preference would be traditional Castrol DOT 3. What are the thoughts
> out there? Is the synthetic silicone based?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:25:31 EST
Subject: Re: lucas
I happen to know this bit of trivia since Springthing 2002 will be held in
Corydon and I have been spending some time there.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 18:38:13 -0800
Subject: CA, was: lucas
I still get a letter every year urging me to scrap my car, though. Nice
of them to offer $500 :)
bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Ohhhh! What about MTBE?
>
> "healey6.com" wrote:
>
> > This is a California company. Doubt if it has any connection to Lucas in
> > England. And, being a native Californian, I can safely say that the State
> > would not put up with anything that pollutes so they are probably prohibited
> > from selling to anyone who owns a car that leaves oil spots!
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 19:48:52 -0700
Subject: Re: 240Z a Healey Copy?
Bill Lawrence
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> The closest thing to healeys these days is the TVR. A
> very nice car & fast. Not as deep of a racing
> heritage, though.
>
> The exterior & rear end of the 240Z was styled as an
> update to the E-Type, not the Healey. Only the
> mechanicals (engine) were styled after the healey. It
> was in "spirit" of the healey was to provide jaguar
> performance at an affordable price -> that's where the
> 240Z and Healey are the same. + the fact all the HD8s
> in junkyards during the 80's were stolen by 240Z
> owners looking for performance!
>
> Alan
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 22:15:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 6:23 PM
Subject: Removal of rear hubs
> Happy Friday, Healeyphiles -- or Saturday, for our friends Downunder!
>
> I got a call today from Alan, at Alan's Gear Works, that my 3.5 gear set
was
> installed and ready to come back to me. Now, I need to get on with
changing
> the rear bearings while the rear end is all torn apart.
>
> The big Sears 2-3/16" socket worked fine to remove the rear hub nuts.
What
> is the best way to remove the hub? Will a slide hammer work, or would
that
> provide too much potential to damage the hub?
>
> Thanks!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
To: Healeys
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 19:58:25 -0700
Subject: Re: CA, was: lucas
Bill Lawrence
Bob Spidell wrote:
> We do a lot of bizarre things here in the Golden State (I can say that,
> being fourth-generation) but, before he left office Gov. Pete Wilson
> signed a bill that exempts all Healey-era cars from the bienniel smog
> check (and gave us a major reduction on our registration fees).
>
> I still get a letter every year urging me to scrap my car, though. Nice
> of them to offer $500 :)
>
> bob
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 22:22:33 -0500
Subject: Re: lucas
> Well I can also state from experience that there are some Californians who
> are guilty of fuzzy thinking. As a graduate of UC Berkeley it always
amazed
> me that the peaceniks and hippies were eager to get an education at the
> school that ran Los Alamos and the nuclear weapons labs.
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
> Cc: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 8:41 PM
> Subject: Re: lucas
>
>
> > Ohhhh! What about MTBE?
> >
> > "healey6.com" wrote:
> >
> > > This is a California company. Doubt if it has any connection to Lucas
in
> > > England. And, being a native Californian, I can safely say that the
> State
> > > would not put up with anything that pollutes so they are probably
> prohibited
> > > from selling to anyone who owns a car that leaves oil spots!
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 22:46:21 -0500
Subject: 240Z
Jees I'm sounding like the old fart I am.
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 20:15:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Early BN1
I absolutely love my early BN1. It looks cool and is
as fast as my BJ8 but gets way better mileage. It
doesn't sound as sophisticated as the BJ8, but that's
the only drawback I've found. They're cheaper than
BN2s & I don't think the 4 speed is all that much
worth the difference in price..... so Go for it!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Peak <johnepeak@hotmail.com> wrote:
> List,
>
> I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other
> than the Whitworth
> fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes,
> and the back-assward
> shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these
> early cars relative to
> the later ones? How are they to drive?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN
> Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 23:25:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Early BN1
> List,
>
> I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other than the Whitworth
> fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes, and the back-assward
> shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these early cars relative
to
> the later ones? How are they to drive?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 23:35:04 -0500
Subject: Girling Master Cylinder
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 00:13:02 EST
Subject: Re: Girling Master Cylinder
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 16:41:11 +1100
Subject: Re: Early BN1
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
Feb 1954 BN1 - Chassis 152199 Body 2017
& 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "John Peak" <johnepeak@hotmail.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Early BN1
> John,
> These are not drawbacks, rather they are the absolute charm of the early
> cars, and don't dare change any of them!
> I personally prefer the BN1 gearbox, great ratios, full synchro, and try
> standing on the throttle while winding her out in second, then switch on
the
> o/d and feel the absolute kick in the ass thrust as o/d kicks in.
> Rich Chrysler
>
>
> > List,
> >
> > I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other than the Whitworth
> > fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes, and the back-assward
> > shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these early cars relative
> to
> > the later ones? How are they to drive?
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 11:44:27 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygears, First Gears, and Center vs. Sideshift
I have done it and it works great.
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
> Jim,
>
> Is the gearbox casting different on the BJ8? I would
> think that if the casting were the same as the other
> centershift boxes (including the machined surfaces)
> that the gears would fit just fine as long as you
> brought over everything including the layshaft. Of course,
> if anything is different all bets are off.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 06:11:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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from the original cylinder. Having a rod that is to long or short can
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 08:28:16 -0500
Subject: Girling Master Cylinders
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "healey6.com" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 08:14:56 +0000
Subject: Re: Early BN1
Remember the A90 Atlantic?
All the best
>These are not drawbacks, rather they are the absolute charm of the early
>cars, and don't dare change any of them!
>I personally prefer the BN1 gearbox, great ratios, full synchro, and try
>standing on the throttle while winding her out in second, then switch on the
>o/d and feel the absolute kick in the ass thrust as o/d kicks in.
>Rich Chrysler
>
>
>> List,
>>
>> I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other than the Whitworth
>> fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes, and the back-assward
>> shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these early cars relative
>to
>> the later ones? How are they to drive?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> John
>
--
John Harper
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 10:41:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
> larry,
> the sears socket will work if you grind the face enough to get rid of the
relief. why buy a puller when the axle shaft flange serves the same purpose
? of course, you do need enough room on each side for the shaft to protrude
without hitting a wall or other obstruction.
> jerry
> Lawrence Mercier wrote:
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> > The big 3 3/16" Sears socket would not work for me, all it was doing
was
> > chewing up that octagonal nut. I was able to borrow the correct tool
and
> > everything went well.
> > To remove the hubs, go to Sears and buy a three legged gear puller, it
works
> > like a charm. Put a 11/4" socket, backwards so as not to damage the
threads,
> > against the hub, then a piece of steel against the socket for the gear
> > puller to bite against. I did this by myself but an extra set of hands
will
> > make the process go faster.
> > I've just completed tearing mine down and replaced the seals only, the
gears
> > were fine.
> > I got a call from Alan yesterday and my differential has been shipped.
> > Good Luck,
> > Larry Mercier
> > BN 6, AN 5, AN 6, AN 8
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 6:23 PM
> > Subject: Removal of rear hubs
> >
> >
> > > Happy Friday, Healeyphiles -- or Saturday, for our friends Downunder!
> > >
> > > I got a call today from Alan, at Alan's Gear Works, that my 3.5 gear
set
> > was
> > > installed and ready to come back to me. Now, I need to get on with
> > changing
> > > the rear bearings while the rear end is all torn apart.
> > >
> > > The big Sears 2-3/16" socket worked fine to remove the rear hub nuts.
> > What
> > > is the best way to remove the hub? Will a slide hammer work, or
would
> > that
> > > provide too much potential to damage the hub?
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Steve Byers
> > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > BJ8 Registry
> > > Havelock, NC USA
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 11:01:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
I got the right side rear hub and bearing off in two minutes using the
technique recommended by Jerry. Worked real slick and didn't require
manufacturing any other parts. Thanks, Jerry!
Thanks also to everyone for their suggestions. The power of this list as
a resource is amazing.
Someone mentioned that the Sears 2-3/16" socket didn't work too well for
them in removing the octagonal nut. I forgot to mention that I did grind
down the bellmouth on the socket to make it fit on the nut better. Before
that, it wanted to cam off the nut, but after grinding it down it worked
great.
Happy Healeying to all!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
> steve,
> pull the axle shaft and use the flange with 3 nuts on the bolts as a
puller. when you run out of room, you'll have to use a large socket or
something else cylindrical between the flange and the hub.
> cheers,
> jerry
> Steve Byers wrote:
> >
> > Happy Friday, Healeyphiles -- or Saturday, for our friends Downunder!
> >
> > I got a call today from Alan, at Alan's Gear Works, that my 3.5 gear
set was
> > installed and ready to come back to me. Now, I need to get on with
changing
> > the rear bearings while the rear end is all torn apart.
> >
> > The big Sears 2-3/16" socket worked fine to remove the rear hub nuts.
What
> > is the best way to remove the hub? Will a slide hammer work, or would
that
> > provide too much potential to damage the hub?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
> >
> > /
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 09:58:57 -0600
Subject: BN7 Furflex Installation
I need some help. Does anyone have some good pictures of how the furflex is
installed around the recess where the hole is for the top frame to fit into on
a BN7 two seat?
I'm ready to install the fender well cover panel on the passenger side, but I
would like to know if the furflex should be installed first around that recess
and down the rear part of the door. Any help would be appreciated.
Don
BN7
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 09:15:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Girling Master Cylinder
I have bought from Pegasus for many years - quality stuff but cannot speak
for the master cylinders.
Cheers, "Bob".
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 13:33:55 EST
Subject: Re: BN7 Furflex Installation
<< I need some help. Does anyone have some good pictures of how the furflex
is installed around the recess where the hole is for the top frame to fit
into on a BN7 two seat?
I'm ready to install the fender well cover panel on the passenger side, but I
would like to know if the furflex should be installed first around that
recess and down the rear part of the door. Any help would be appreciated. >>
I'm not sure I understand your question, but you might check the picture on
page 116 of the "Austin Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide." You can
put the furflex over the panel edge, then install the interior rear quarter
trim panel, and finally screw the aluminum finish piece on top of the trim
panel to hold the end of the furflex in place. Note that the furflex goes
UNDER the aluminum trim piece on the bottom edge of the door opening.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:08:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Removal of rear hubs
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 17:00:33 EST
Subject: Re: Rally Cars
I will have the entire set up for a rally car in "The Healey Book" which will
be out for the Tahoe meet. In the book I have included that parts required
and the prices that were charged when the cars were new.
Bill Emerson
Historic Healeys
Scottsdale, AZ
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 14:53:50 -0800
Subject: Questions re tools-Harbor Freight
2) They sell a multi-size pickle fork set--are pickle forks a good way to
separate the steering linkage and get the steering arm off as well as the
idler arm, or is there a fancier tool I should be looking at?
Thanks in advance & apologies if this is redundant--the archives yielded
nothing--think they're down.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 18:53:36 -0500
Subject: Healey Archives
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 17:15:31 -0800
Subject: Re Archives Down-clarification
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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 19:18:35 -0600
Subject: Car History Non-Healey
Win Graham
63 BJ7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 21:04:25 -0500
Subject: side curtain felt strips
If so, contact me off list to move a set.
Thanks,
Charley Braum
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 18:15:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Early BN1
I would not want to change any of the original features. The early cars
have always been may favorite. But I want a car for driving and enjoying
not restoring and showing so I wanted to know if they are suited to regular
road use.
The unanimous opinion of the BN1 owners on this list is that they are.
John
>From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
>
>John,
>These are not drawbacks, rather they are the absolute charm of the early
>cars, and don't dare change any of them!
>I personally prefer the BN1 gearbox, great ratios, full synchro, and try
>standing on the throttle while winding her out in second, then switch on
>the
>o/d and feel the absolute kick in the ass thrust as o/d kicks in.
>Rich Chrysler
>
>
> > List,
> >
> > I am looking at a very early BN1 for sale. Other than the Whitworth
> > fasteners, the spiral bevel axle, the small brakes, and the back-assward
> > shift pattern are there any other drawbacks to these early cars relative
>to
> > the later ones? How are they to drive?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > John
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 22:07:33 -0800
Subject: Re: CA, was: lucas
Keep your eyes on our legislators and on pending bills.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 6:38 PM
Subject: CA, was: lucas
> We do a lot of bizarre things here in the Golden State (I can say that,
> being fourth-generation) but, before he left office Gov. Pete Wilson
> signed a bill that exempts all Healey-era cars from the bienniel smog
> check (and gave us a major reduction on our registration fees).
>
> I still get a letter every year urging me to scrap my car, though. Nice
> of them to offer $500 :)
>
> bob
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From "Lynn and Jean Neff" <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 05:53:01 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: test
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From "Linwood Rose" <linwoodrose at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 08:54:52 -0500
Subject: separating manifold from head
Thanks
Lin Rose
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:05:54 -0600
Subject: Re: separating manifold from head
Happy Hunting, Mark
> Beginning restoration of a 60 BT7 that has been sitting for 17 years.
After
> removing 6 nuts for intake manifold to head studs and 4 long bolts to the
> top of the exhaust manifold as well as one mounting bolt for the throttle
> bracket, I am unable to break the manifold free of the head. It appears to
> be "frozen" in place. I am afraid to "bang" around to hard. Have I missed
> something? Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lin Rose
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:44:09 -0600
Subject: Re: separating manifold from head
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linwood Rose" <linwoodrose@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2002 7:54 AM
Subject: separating manifold from head
> Beginning restoration of a 60 BT7 that has been sitting for 17 years.
After
> removing 6 nuts for intake manifold to head studs and 4 long bolts to the
> top of the exhaust manifold as well as one mounting bolt for the throttle
> bracket, I am unable to break the manifold free of the head. It appears to
> be "frozen" in place. I am afraid to "bang" around to hard. Have I missed
> something? Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lin Rose
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:50:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Questions re tools-Harbor Freight
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 4:53 PM
Subject: Questions re tools-Harbor Freight
> Hello Listers,
> 2) They sell a multi-size pickle fork set--are pickle forks a good way to
> separate the steering linkage and get the steering arm off as well as the
> idler arm, or is there a fancier tool I should be looking at?
>
> Thanks in advance & apologies if this is redundant--the archives yielded
> nothing--think they're down.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:00:49 -0800
Subject: Strange noise coming from Driver's Rear Hub - 1960 BT7
My 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 is making a strange sound from the
driver's
rear wheel. When I engage a forward gear, or even reverse, and begin motion
there is a slight thud that comes from the driver's rear.
Today I removed the wheel, hub extension, and shaft. It seems that with
the hub extension removed I was able to isolate the noise. With both hands
on the studs, and the axle shaft still installed, I was able to move the hub
forward and backward. This producted the thud sound immediately following
moving the hub. It isn't a continual sound as it just happens when I begin
motion. In other words there seemed to be a little play when I would spin
the hub forward or back.
With the shaft removed the hub spins freely without making this noise.
The
teeth at the business end of the shaft appear to be fine but could these be
the culpret? They don't show any noticeable wear though? I know that the
rear end on this car is the 3.54 ratio that is original to the car. Is it
possible that over the years someone replaced the shaft with an incorrect
shaft that does not fit into the internal gears tightly? Are there
different shafts depending on the ratio of the rear?
Anyway any ideas would be extrememly appreciated. Thank you for taking
the
time to reard this. I have taken digital pics of all of my findings if it
would help I could send them off list.
Thanks!
Matt-
60 BT7
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 20:48:08 -0500
Subject: Wax
Andy
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 19:53:18 -0600
Subject: Rally Cars - Grille
Does anyone have any specs / details on the grilles and air scopes found on
the front of many rally cars? I'm looking for measurements, designs, etc.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 19:12:19 -0800
Subject: Re: strange noise coming from rear hub
Matt,
If the hub moves on the axle housing, then I believe the hub is the problem.
The hub is press fit on the end of the axle housing. Only the bearing in the
hub should turn. If you need a hub, I got a good used one for $60 from
British Car Specialists, Stockton, CA, when I spun the rear bearing.
Mark Fawcett
59 BT7
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:47:13 EST
Subject: Re: battery brackets
********************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:51:48 EST
Subject: BN-1 Folding Windscreen LH Locking Screw
Thanks.
Steve
BN-1 Brutus
Still on blocks
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:07:43 -0500
Subject: Wax
Andy,
I really like Meguires products. Specifically, I use Meguires No. 9 Swirl
Remover to get the old wax off down to the clear coat and follow with
Meguires No. 26 Yellow Carnuba wax. I maintain this finish with the Quick
Detailer.
These have worked great on my Ice Blue paint job that is about 10 years old
but holding up wonderfully.....
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:28:42 -0500
Subject: VIR Gold Cup Races and Show
Info on the race can be found at: http://virclub.org
Herman
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:27:34 EST
Subject: Re: VIR Gold Cup Races and Show
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:18:47 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 Folding Windscreen LH Locking Screw
<< Anybody know what the left hand thread is? Head style? Availability? >>
Steve,
I have a copy of the original plans from BMC/Worchester Windshields for all
three pieces of the windscreen knurled knob assembly. The "Knob Retaining
Screw," Part No. 14B1860 is a No. 6 UNC 17/64" Full Left Hand Thread. The
head diameter is 11/32" and it is slotted with a 1/16 X 1/16" slot.
I received the copy of these plans from a club member who had a batch of both
the "Shouldered Pin," Part No. 14B1858 and the "Knob Retaining Screw"
described above made up from these plans. The quality of these was as good
if not better than the originals however the bad news is that they were all
sold some time ago. I fact I sent the last set to a fellow list member about
a year ago. I am not aware that anyone is now making an accurate copy of
this screw, but I may be wrong since I haven't been looking.
One other thing to think about is how to remove the piece of the broken screw
from the shouldered pins. I had this done by a shop that specializes in
electrostatically removing broken studs however the cost ended being more
than it was to buy all four reproduction pieces, and I still had to re-chrome
the piece and purchase the screws separately.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:56:36 -0700
Subject: new interior for a Tricarb
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:01:59 -0500
Subject: Re: VIR Gold Cup Races and Show
I expect more details will be advertised in the coming months.
Anybody else have any info?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herman" <herman@capitalhealeys.org>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 12:28 PM
Subject: VIR Gold Cup Races and Show
> Is someone coordinating any events for Healey owners at Virginia
> International Raceway June 7-9? Healey is the featured marque and
> Gerry Coker is the featured guest. I assume many Healey owners will
> be there, but I've heard very little buzz.
>
> Info on the race can be found at: http://virclub.org
>
> Herman
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From "John Loftus" <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:19:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Austin Healey
Good to hear you have the E-type running. I've always liked the body shape
on those too.
The Healey is running well ... took a nice drive yesterday in fact. I
installed a roller rocker arm assembly which took care of most of the oil
burning and the motor is much smoother.
The passenger side window exploded one day due to the gouges/scratches from
the trim screws. Watch out if you have any tempered glass with deep
scratches! It happened while I was refueling and luckly my wife was not
injured with the falling glass. Since the driver side was also scratched I
have ordered new glass for both sides. With the windows apart I took the
opportunity to have some parts re-chromed and also ordered new rubber for
the vent windows, etc. I hope to reinstall everything soon.
A fellow healey enthusiast on the healey list
<http://www.team.net/team.net.html> list organized a group order for 3.54
read ends. I will be pulling the pumpkin this week to have the new gears
installed. Looking forward to better cruising speed with the new ratio. This
will come in handy for the Open Roads 2002 Lake Tahoe Healey International
being held June 23-26. It's the 50 year anniversary of the introduction of
the AH 100 and there are over 500 Healeys already signed up
www.healey2002.com
I've been meaning to drop by to see your project and show you the status of
the Healey. I'll drive by when I get everything back together.
Regards,
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry A. Smith III" <74351.213@compuserve.com>
To: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 11:36 AM
Subject: Austin Healey
Had not thought about this in some time. After we got your change of
address it reminded me to ask how the Healey is doing?
I am now driving the E-type. Very fast. The interior and convertible top
are not done, but the mechanicals are pretty good. Lots of fun to drive.
Regards,
Henry Smith
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:44:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: VIR Gold Cup Races and Show
On Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:01:59 -0500 AH102 <bluechipracing@snet.net> wrote:
The car show is being sponsored by Moss Motors, so I contacted Moss
looking for more details about this event. They simply referred me back to
the virclub website
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From "John Loftus" <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:06:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Austin Healey
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From "Adamas Laboratory Corporation" <cwoodall at mnsi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:09:40 -0500
Subject: BN1 Tranny
I am looking for a tranny for a friend of mine who is nearing completion of
his 53 BN1. It needs to be a correct tranny with OD in either good working
or repairable condition. Because of the size, distance is a factor but not
one that couldn't be dealt with if need be. Please e-mail me directly off
the list at cwoodall@mnsi.net. Thanks for your help once again.
Regards,
Chris Woodall
Windsor, Ontario
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:45:13 -0500
Subject: Re: new interior for a Tricarb
> I am in the stage of my tricarb restoration that I have to decide on the
> source for the new interior. I have e-mailed Heritage and have had no
reply in
> 3 weeks. What are the relative merits of Moss, VB and other vendors'
> interiors. I would prefer to deal locally (heritage has an office in
Vancouver
> BC) but if they won't reply before the purchase, there is no hope of help
> afterwards, I think.
> Thanks for any input
> Bruce Starke
> Golden BC
Bruce,
Phone them during business hours. They are extremely busy because they are
so good, and will respond or call you back by phone. Tony doesn't like using
Email. The crew there are very helpful and friendly, but you'll need to have
patience in receiving the product unless it's something commonly in stock
like a basic black carpet set.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:25:22 -0500
Subject: Re: new interior for a Tricarb
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From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:41:53 -0800
Subject: Healey Manual
I bought a torque wrench yesterday.
Matt-
1960 3000 BT7
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:04:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Manual
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7@san.rr.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 6:41 PM
Subject: Healey Manual
> Dear Healey Chat Forum-
> Any ideas where I can purchase, "The Complete Official Austin-Healey 100/6
> and 3000 1956-1968: Comprimising The Offical Handbook, and Workshop
Manual"?
> It's is/was published by Bentley and it comes highly recommended. Sadly
it
> doesn't appear available through any of the "obvious" channels. I checked
> www.abebooks.com, www.amazon.com, www.buy.com, www.mossmotors.com ,
> www.barnesandnobles.com, and about 10 other sites. However I just bet
> someone knows exactly where I can get one and it's probably staring right
at
> me.
>
> I bought a torque wrench yesterday.
>
> Matt-
> 1960 3000 BT7
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:25:14 -0500
Subject: Vir Gold Cup Races
The event at VIR is a major event. Many of the people from the Carolina's
Club are going. It is a shame that it falls on the weekend of the car show
but that is Vir's major event also that weekend. But I think this is what
Donald Healey would have wanted, his cars racing against each other and other
marques. If you don't have a license you can take a three day Skip Barbour
course at VIR before that and obtain a SCCA or SVRA/HSR license. I think this
should be an event that everyone should go to even though it is close to the
Conclave date. Call Julie Allen at VIIR. She is handling that weekend and is
very helpfull. She will send you a registration form and all the other info.
She has been calling a lot of people to make sure that it is a successful
event. Her number is 434-822-7700 ext 101. I will be racing my Healey
Silverstone and a Lotus 7 that weekend.
Hope to see you all there
Allan Casavant
Silverstone
100m
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From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:17:58 -0800
Subject: Thanks for all the ongoing help!
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:43:43 -0800
Subject: FYI re: Copyrights question
>Dear Bill,
>You are correct. Patents have a limited life of 20 years from the filing
>date.
>Trademarks/service marks are subject to continued use, and are renewed
>every ten years.
>Copyright does have a limited life, at issue is when the work (Healey
>literature) was published. The rules are set forth at Title 17 United
>States Code sections 302 -305. If you get the facts ( when published) I
>will help you read the statute. For additional information, see
>http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright which provides access to the statute and
>the sections on duration of copyright. You can also do some limited
>searching for information on registrations, though I have access to
>better databases and information. I have set forth part of those comments
>from the statute below.
>-----Works Originally Created and Published or Registered before January
>1, 1978
>Under the law in effect before 1978, copyright was secured either on the
>date a work was published with a copyright notice or on the date of
>registration if the work was registered in unpublished form. In either
>case, the copyright endured for a first term of 28 years from the date it
>was secured. During the last (28th) year of the first term, the copyright
>was eligible for renewal. The Copyright Act of 1976 extended the renewal
>term from 28 to 47 years for copyrights that were subsisting on January 1,
>1978, or for pre-1978 copyrights restored under the Uruguay Round
>Agreements Act (URAA), making these works eligible for a total term of
>protection of 75 years. Public Law 105-298, enacted on October 27, 1998,
>further extended the renewal term of copyrights still subsisting on that
>date by an additional 20 years, providing for a renewal term of 67 years
>and a total term of protection of 95 years.
>
>Public Law 102-307, enacted on June 26, 1992, amended the 1976 Copyright
>Act to provide for automatic renewal of the term of copyrights secured
>between January 1, 1964, and December 31, 1977. Although the renewal term
>is automatically provided, the Copyright Office does not issue a renewal
>certificate for these works unless a renewal application and fee are
>received and registered in the Copyright Office.
>
>Public Law 102-307 makes renewal registration optional. Thus, filing for
>renewal registration is no longer required in order to extend the original
>28-year copyright term to the full 95 years. However, some benefits accrue
>from making a renewal registration during the 28th year of the original term.
>
>For more detailed information on renewal of copyright and the copyright
>term, request Circular 15, "Renewal of Copyright"; Circular 15a, "Duration
>of Copyright"; and Circular 15t, "Extension of Copyright Terms."
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 22:30:23 -0500
Subject: Sebring Coupe
> I believe the owner in Pennsylvania wants to get some idea of what he can now
> get for the car. He paid me $45,000 for it two years ago and I purchased a
> 328 GTS Ferrari to enjoy. HAN8 R 202 was a 1966 Sprite Coupe and it is very
> real!!!!!
>
> Good luck. I have all the info on this car.
>
> Bill Wood
>
Bill,
For that much money, he should have gotten all of the historical information on
the car.
Why don't you give it to him?
Charlie
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 22:52:53 -0500
Subject: FYI re copyrights question
Charley
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 05:20:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Manual
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 09:42:52 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 Folding Windscreen LH Locking Screw
Great information. I think I tracked down a pair of the repro parts you
referred to. They are described as "jewels" and I've arranged to buy
them...for $50. These were made by a fellow in Iowa who then moved to
Illinois. The last of the batch was sold to good ol' boy in Virginia. He
gave 'em away as Christmas presents. Two of the recipients were open to the
idea of selling them to me. The good ol' boy in Virginia thought that $50
was too much, but, having spent a little time on the quest, I figured I
better grab 'em!
Funny you should mention about removing the broken off piece of screw, just
like it was factory issue/standard procedure/on the original drawings...I
assume that most folks didn't know they were left hand threads and proceeded
to torque a little harder to "loosen 'em up".
That is, of course, what initiated my question(s). I bought a stud and
knurled knob for $10. The stud has a piece of the left handed locking screw
thread broken off. I can just see about one full female thread...just enough
to confirm that it's left handed.
Had my machinist buddy chuck the stud up on a lathe, center hole the
offending piece of thread, drill it for tap size and tap it 3-48 (right
handed). The idea is to now put a 3-48 shoulder bolt in, letting the
shoulder lock on the end of the broken thread and, by tightening up the
shoulder bolt, remove the broken piece...kinda like an over designed left
hand easy-out. It doesn't look promising. I've been soaking the piece in
PB Blaster for about three days and I'm not very optimistic. I'm working on
adding a bit of high frequency vibration (from my old engraver), but I may
not be stubborn enough to win this one.
So, with the new pieces and my single knurled knob, which will have to be
re-plated or replaced with a repro part, I'm gaining on the chase. I keep
saying that it doesn't need to be exactly as original, but, when given the
choice, I seem to spend quite a bit of extra time, money and effort to shoot
for it. How did everyone loose these pieces, anyway?
Thanks again for the good information.
Steve
BN-1 Brutus on Blocks
(Or maybe they're pedestals)
In a message dated 2/11/02 11:18:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, CNAArndt writes:
<< Steve,
I have a copy of the original plans from BMC/Worchester Windshields for all
three pieces of the windscreen knurled knob assembly. The "Knob Retaining
Screw," Part No. 14B1860 is a No. 6 UNC 17/64" Full Left Hand Thread. The
head diameter is 11/32" and it is slotted with a 1/16 X 1/16" slot.
I received the copy of these plans from a club member who had a batch of
both the "Shouldered Pin," Part No. 14B1858 and the "Knob Retaining Screw"
described above made up from these plans. The quality of these was as good
if not better than the originals however the bad news is that they were all
sold some time ago. I fact I sent the last set to a fellow list member about
a year ago. I am not aware that anyone is now making an accurate copy of
this screw, but I may be wrong since I haven't been looking.
One other thing to think about is how to remove the piece of the broken
screw from the shouldered pins. I had this done by a shop that specializes
in electrostatically removing broken studs however the cost ended being more
than it was to buy all four reproduction pieces, and I still had to re-chrome
the piece and purchase the screws separately.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 >>
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 07:42:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Manual
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 08:11:42 -0800
Subject: Paint
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 08:41:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenny Johnson <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 8:11 AM
Subject: Paint
> I am getting ready to paint the chassis and body of my BT-7. I am looking
> for suggestions on what type and brand of paint I should use on my Healey.
> I am painting it back to the original Healey Blue. Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT-7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:43:32 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 Folding Windscreen LH Locking Screw
<< They are described as "jewels" and I've arranged to buy
them...for $50. These were made by a fellow in Iowa who then moved to
Illinois. >>
Somewhere I have tucked away a copy of the blueprint for these fasteners.
When
you get them, you may appreciate their cost, since that batch (I bought one
of the first pairs) was done to order. They really are beautiful if you
appreciate fine machining.
Cheers
gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:45:02 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Manual
<< www.bookfinders.com & www.half.com are great places to buy used manuals--I
got my Bentley paperback version of the official manual via bookfinders for
$25. Also these are great places to buy any book that's been out for more
than a couple of months.
No financial interest, etc. >>
www.alibris.com is also a good source for old out-of-print books. I've
bought several old racing biographies on that system.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:46:58 EST
Subject: Re: Paint
<< R&R Paint Supply in Long Beach, 562-428-3648. Their H.Blue paint color is
dead on and the formula is guarded. 2 part Chromobase paint. If memory
serves it runs about $190.00 gallon. Ask for Dick.
Coop ('66 BJ8)- >>
I agree completely -- I think Dick (Main)'s version of Healey Blue is the
best I've seen.
Sure it's expensive, but think of the time it will save you not having to do
the basic research all over again, and then have your paint shop spray out a
sample of your formula before you use it.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:54:12 -0600
Subject: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
W. Mark Endicott
Communications Group, Inc.
441 Donelson Pike, Suite 420
Nashville, Tennessee 37214
800 431-2929
615 889-4756
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:12:29 EST
Subject: Re: BN-1 Folding Windscreen LH Locking Screw
I have an appreciation for fine machining, as well as the proper polishing
and plating that goes into these reproductions. I mentioned the cost for
reference only. I think the generally available (right hand thread)
reproductions are on the order of $36-$40 per set, so the delta cost for
"jewels" is a bargain in my book.
I looked into making the headed shoulder bolt that the windscreen pivots on,
with the little spring tang. I almost went for it, but a guy gave me a pair
of originals. I was set up with a CNC machinist that would make me one for
about $400...or he would make me (50) of them for about $401...the cost was
in the setup. I figured I could polish them and get them plated for another
$100-$200, so counting a little of my labor, say $800 for (50), or about
$16.00 a piece...$32.00 a pair. Then I'd be stuck with (24) extra pair! (I
posted a note on this list and got almost zero response).
(Curt Arndt also says he has drawings for the parts).
Regards.
Steve
BN-1 Brutus on Blocks
With an unsecured folded windscreen
In a message dated 2/12/02 8:45:57 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
<< In a message dated 2/12/02 6:46:07 AM, SMickel950@aol.com writes:
<< They are described as "jewels" and I've arranged to buy
them...for $50. These were made by a fellow in Iowa who then moved to
Illinois. >>
Somewhere I have tucked away a copy of the blueprint for these fasteners.
When
you get them, you may appreciate their cost, since that batch (I bought one
of the first pairs) was done to order. They really are beautiful if you
appreciate fine machining.
Cheers
gary >>
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 15:54:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
Mark
> First of all thanks for all of the help with the OD, rear springs and all
of
> the other questions that I have posted to this list. I am getting to the
> point that I am ready to work on the cosmetics of the car and another
> question has come up. I have a pair of NOS Lucas SLR700 driving lights
that
> I am ready to install. The front "apron" on the BN1 is aluminum and
doesn't
> seem to be substantial enough to mount a pair of 7 inch lights. I am
> considering making a bracket that attached to the front bumper brackets to
> support the lights from under the apron. Although a little tricky to get
it
> right I think that it can be done. Any other thoughts on a good way to
> brace a pair of driving lights?
>
>
> W. Mark Endicott
> Communications Group, Inc.
> 441 Donelson Pike, Suite 420
> Nashville, Tennessee 37214
>
> 800 431-2929
> 615 889-4756
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 14:52:22 -0600
Subject: Austin Motor Corp/BMC
One of the problems of BMC was that Austin and Morris for the most part
remained separate entities and never achieved the economy of scale. Also,
Austin, as the stronger of the two organizations, pretty much ran the show.
Men and Motors of THE AUSTIN, by Barney Sharratt discusses this aspect.
That meant that the AH was still an Austin, even down to the color the
motors were painted.
It is an interesting book, and also addresses the relationship of Austin
with the Japanese motor industry that has been mentioned on the list.
Jack
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 16:19:00 EST
Subject: Re: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
<< Although a little tricky to get it
right I think that it can be done. Any other thoughts on a good way to
brace a pair of driving lights?
>>
I've seen it done neatly by making a 1" wide bar that extends from one bumper
guard to the other, ending in right angle ends that can be bolted to the
bumper guards up underneath the splash panel. Then you drill through the
splash panel, but fasten the lights to the bar underneath.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:40:49 -0800
Subject: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
Thanks,
Mark Fawcett
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From Charlie Baldwin <ewsinc at blazenet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 17:41:13 -0500
Subject: Red interior
Also, I notice that Moss does not show black piping with the red as my
interior originally was. Will they make that to order?
Thanks,
Charlie Baldwin
'62 BT7 tricarb, Black / red
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:43:55 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
<< I've been able to locate photos
of the 2 seater and there's a vinyl covered wood piece that it screws into,
but I haven't seen a clear picture of this area for the 4 seater. Gary and
Rogers book show a photo on page 112, but it doesn't show what it is screwed
>>
Sorry for not having a clearer picture of that detail. If I recall correctly,
the piece of wood is about two inches square and about an inch thick and is
fastened to the inner fender well with a single screw in the center that goes
down into a countersunk hole in the block of wood. Look immediately behind
the hole for the hardtop/tonneau bar post; I believe there should be a tapped
hole in the top of the inner fender right there.
This is all from memory -- been years since I assembled a BT7, so you 2+2
owners out there might wish to correct me.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 17:23:08 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> Yes. It used to look like this. These are photos taken when I stripped
out
> the old interior. The wooden blocks look like oak, are rectangular, and
> about 5/8 inch thick, covered with the same material used on the side
> panels, door panels, and footwell panels - folded underneath and glued to
> the block, which has a single hole in the center of it, through which it
is
> lagged down to the metal shelf beneath.
>
> Phil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> To: Philip S. Anson <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
>
>
> > Thanks Phil! Is that a vinyl covered wood piece under the trim piece?
> > Mark
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
> > To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 3:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> >
> >
> > > Does this help at all? It is a '60 BT-7 that was original up until
last
> > > spring when this interior was roughed in. I have more photos, also.
> > >
> > > Phil Anson
> > > Portland, ME
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> > > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:40 PM
> > > Subject: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > I'm beginning to start figuring out the interior finish trim in my
59
> > BT7
> > > and
> > > > one question I have (and I'll have plenty later) is what does the
door
> > > seal
> > > > cap (brush aluminum trim piece) screw into? I've been able to
locate
> > > photos
> > > > of the 2 seater and there's a vinyl covered wood piece that it
screws
> > > into,
> > > > but I haven't seen a clear picture of this area for the 4 seater.
> Gary
> > > and
> > > > Rogers book show a photo on page 112, but it doesn't show what it is
> > > screwed
> > > > into to. My car came with very little of the interior so I don't
have
> > > > anything to compare it to. If anyone could email a clear photo of
> this
> > > area
> > > > to me I would greatly appreciate it.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Mark Fawcett
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 17:50:26 -0800
Subject: Welding
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 20:49:21 -0500
Subject: Gaps between the door and the fenders - what to do?
What should it be?
When repairing the chassis, I didn't replace rocker arms or sills, but did
remove the outer rocker panels for repair. The frame is fine and had only
some minor rust beneath the driver and passenger feet, rusty trunk and the
usual dog leg spots.
Is this just normal sagging that I'm facing? What do the pro's do to make
these relatively minor fixes? I'm afraid to start grinding the edges on the
doors or fenders because I don't want to break the edge of the skin.
Can front fenders be adjusted forward by bending the hinge pillar assembly or
rear fenders back by bending the shut pillar assembly?
I haven't even put in the engine and transmission, so maybe I'm premature
here. This is difficult and I don't want to start bending things without a
plan.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 18:31:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Welding
Good Luck,
Mark Fawcett
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 5:50 PM
Subject: Welding
> Before I can paint my BT-7, I need to replace the rear bumper frame
> extensions, rear shroud support, the battery bracket, the battery cable
> bulkhead, and the sway bar mounting brackets. Does anyone know an easy way
> to cut the old ones out? Cold chisel? Cutting tool (die grinder)? Anyone
> know of a good welder in the Sacramento area that can do this for me?
> Thanks.
>
>
> Kenny
> '61 BT-7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 21:56:25 -0600
Subject: SFT700-driving lamps
I should probably replace the 48w bulbs too.
Thanks in advance, Mark
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 21:47:38 -0600
Subject: Re: SFT700-driving lamps
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 21:54:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
I currently have my driving lights mounted on a badge bar that has the
mounting plates attached.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
> In a message dated 2/12/02 9:57:20 AM, mark@nashvilletn.org writes:
>
> << Although a little tricky to get it
> right I think that it can be done. Any other thoughts on a good way to
> brace a pair of driving lights?
> >>
>
> I've seen it done neatly by making a 1" wide bar that extends from one
bumper
> guard to the other, ending in right angle ends that can be bolted to the
> bumper guards up underneath the splash panel. Then you drill through the
> splash panel, but fasten the lights to the bar underneath.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 23:33:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
By far the easiest and best way to mount them up is to
weld some angle iron to the inside or the bumper
brackets, and then drill a hole through the apron and
through the angle iron. This will give all the
structural integrity you need to keep a firm slr 700
facing forward with no vibration. It has the benefit
on 6 cyl cars of stabilizing the front apron. Your
local body shop/welding shop can do the job for very
low cost... unless you're a welder yourself.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:
> First of all thanks for all of the help with the OD,
> rear springs and all of
> the other questions that I have posted to this list.
> I am getting to the
> point that I am ready to work on the cosmetics of
> the car and another
> question has come up. I have a pair of NOS Lucas
> SLR700 driving lights that
> I am ready to install. The front "apron" on the BN1
> is aluminum and doesn't
> seem to be substantial enough to mount a pair of 7
> inch lights. I am
> considering making a bracket that attached to the
> front bumper brackets to
> support the lights from under the apron. Although a
> little tricky to get it
> right I think that it can be done. Any other
> thoughts on a good way to
> brace a pair of driving lights?
>
>
> W. Mark Endicott
> Communications Group, Inc.
> 441 Donelson Pike, Suite 420
> Nashville, Tennessee 37214
>
> 800 431-2929
> 615 889-4756
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:59:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Austin Motor Corp/BMC
> Men and Motors of THE AUSTIN, by Barney Sharratt discusses this aspect.
>
>That meant that the AH was still an Austin, even down to the color the
>motors were painted.
>
Yes I have read the book. However after November 1954 the later 100s had
for example a rear axles made at a BMC factory with a Morris title
Morris Motors Limited, Tractor and Transmissions Branch, Wolseley Works,
Ward End, Birmingham 8.
One could hardly call this an Austin factory.
You may also recall that many of the later parts were stamped MOWOG.
These were certainly not of Austin origin.
This I believe is the point that my friend was making.
>It is an interesting book, and also addresses the relationship of Austin
>with the Japanese motor industry that has been mentioned on the list.
>
All the best
--
John Harper
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From j <qualitas at millenicom.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 03:55:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Austin Motor Corp/BMC
Jack
At Tuesday, 12 February 2002, John Harper <john@jharper.demon.co.
uk> wrote:
>Jack
>>
>>One of the problems of BMC was that Austin and Morris for the most
part
>>remained separate entities and never achieved the economy of scale.
Also,
>>Austin, as the stronger of the two organizations, pretty much ran
the show.
>>
>I agree with this point. I still meet from time to time a Morris Motor
>Appretice who rose to run BMC's KD (Knocked Down - vehicles exported as
>parts) but still many years after retirement has a "thing" about Austin
>Apprentices that he had to work with over at least a thirty year
period.
>
>> Men and Motors of THE AUSTIN, by Barney Sharratt discusses this
aspect.
>>
>>That meant that the AH was still an Austin, even down to the color the
>>motors were painted.
>>
>Yes I have read the book. However after November 1954 the later
100s had
>for example a rear axles made at a BMC factory with a Morris title
>
>Morris Motors Limited, Tractor and Transmissions Branch, Wolseley
Works,
>Ward End, Birmingham 8.
>
>One could hardly call this an Austin factory.
>
>You may also recall that many of the later parts were stamped MOWOG.
>These were certainly not of Austin origin.
>
>This I believe is the point that my friend was making.
>
>>It is an interesting book, and also addresses the relationship
of Austin
>>with the Japanese motor industry that has been mentioned on the list.
>>
>
>All the best
>--
>John Harper
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 04:56:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Paint
Use single-stage on the chassis & inner panels and use two-stage on the
exterior panels.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: Paint
> In a message dated 2/12/02 8:42:32 AM, coop1@dnai.com writes:
>
> << R&R Paint Supply in Long Beach, 562-428-3648. Their H.Blue paint color
is
> dead on and the formula is guarded. 2 part Chromobase paint. If memory
> serves it runs about $190.00 gallon. Ask for Dick.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)- >>
>
> I agree completely -- I think Dick (Main)'s version of Healey Blue is the
> best I've seen.
>
> Sure it's expensive, but think of the time it will save you not having to
do
> the basic research all over again, and then have your paint shop spray out
a
> sample of your formula before you use it.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 11:34:15 -0000
Subject: Questions re tools-Harbor Freight
I had the misfortune to have to replace all of the core (aka 'freeze') plugs in
my block and head shortly after getting the car back on the road in the 80s.
The rebuilder had used 'modern' equivalents that were not as thick as the
originals and two literally blew out!
Not having any special tools, I used the old trick of hammering a screwdriver
into the plugs and twisting them out. Tedious but it worked as the plugs did
not fit terribly well.
To replace them, I used a ball headed hammer where access was OK to swing the
hammer but otherwise I shaped a ball end onto a piece of half inch steel rod
(about 9 inches long) and hit this with a heavy lump hammer.
I removed the transmission cover on the front bulkhead to get access to the
rear plugs and may have removed the carbs (but I don't think so - probably just
the air cleaners). The tricky plug is the one at the rear carb side of the
block. Remove the trim from the left hand inner footwell and drill a hole
through into the engine compartment. The steel rod can the pass through this
hole to replace the plug. Once finished, use a rubber plug to cover the hole.
(Of course, having the transmission cover removed is necessary for this to
work!)
Best of luck!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 14:53:50 -0800
From: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
====================================================
Hello Listers,
1) I'm looking at a Freeze Plug Remover/Installer tool kit in the Harbor
Freight catalog (pn 43413-omea). The kit appears to be a lever and round
fittings of various sizes which must go with various size plugs. Max size is
2".
Without removing the engine, I'm interested in replacing the last plug back
on the side as well as the plugs on the back of the block and or head. I
don't mind taking the manifolds off and would like to know if anyone has
experience with this tool and whether it will do the job.
2) They sell a multi-size pickle fork set--are pickle forks a good way to
separate the steering linkage and get the steering arm off as well as the
idler arm, or is there a fancier tool I should be looking at?
Thanks in advance & apologies if this is redundant--the archives yielded
nothing--think they're down.
- --
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:19:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door and the fenders - what to do?
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From Bill Gildea <bill at execrecruiter.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 11:25:12 -0500
Subject: Copyrights cont'd.
Bill Gildea
'67 BJ8
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 13:00:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door and the fenders - what to do?
The best way and also, in the long run, the easiest way to even up the
door gaps is to adjust the shapes of the door edges to match the adjacent
front and rear wings (fenders). This is done by cutting off, with a
grinder, the ege of the door skin where the gap is too narrow and adding
metal (either by building up the edge with welding rod or by actually
welding sheet metal to the edge) where the gap is too wide. This need to
be done with the wheels on the ground and the drivetrain mounted. Alingn
both the body crease and the gap at the sill if possible. The crease has
priority - shims under the door hinges may be needed. Make sure the
striker mechanism is mounted as adjusting it can help fine-tune aligment
.
It's very much a cut-and-try procedure but it works, and winds up being
less work than other methods. As you suggested, you will break through
the inner and outer door skins so welding in this area will be necessary.
I've done this on my BN-2 and a customer's 3000 and the gaps I achieved
were better than AH could do when the cars were new. Of course, you
could stop at less than perfection if you wanted it to be authentic...
Bill Schmidt
56 100M
________________________________________________________________
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 14:50:44 -0800
Subject: brake lites
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 15:44:42 -0500
Subject: NJ registration
1. Normal registration
2. Historical plates ... What are the restrictions? I already have the 3000
mile restriction on my insurance. What do I need to take with me to DMV.
I'm actually at DMV now and they do not know anything about the historic
reg. They have given me a number that always seems to be busy.
All info gratefully received.
Thanks,
Andy
'67 BJ8
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 15:05:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Copyrights cont'd.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:58:52 EST
Subject: Springthing 2002
This year our successful annual event moves to another great location,
Corydon, Indiana. Located just twenty miles west of Louisville, KY. Our host
hotel will be the Old Capitol Inn with a special room rate of only $55 per
night.
On Friday morning crank up the Healey and join us in a scenic tour of the
Hoosier National Forest. We'll see commanding views of the Ohio River Valley,
perhaps the inside of a cave, sample the gastronomic pleasures of Pluto Water
and maybe find the ghost of old Scarface Al. That evening, at your pleasure,
find dinner or succumb to the temptations of Caesar's River Boat Casino.
Saturday enter the Popularity Car Show featuring all your favorite Healeys.
Held In conjunction with a large Regional Art Fair, this event will be in
downtown Historic Corydon. Strolling among the cars and the art exhibits,
what better way to spend a Saturday Morning. Then join us for a ride on the
Historic Corydon Railroad for an afternoon excursion.
Our always excellent Hospitality Suite, Inventive Awards, hilarious Funkhana
are all
on the weekend's agenda. Saturday evening enjoy a fine Awards Banquet and
special Auction. Trophies for the winners and a few surprises are always on
the agenda. After dinner our Auctioneer will entertain you while pitching his
fine Healeywares
We've included one of the best Autocross events ever to this years
Springthing! Hosted by the Kentucky Region SCCA , the Autocross will be in
Louisville at the Papa John's Football Stadium parking lot. It is a HUGE and
challenging course featuring well over 100 competitors. Special classes and
arrangements have been made just for the Healeys to allow us to compete first
and allow plenty of travel time on Sunday.
Visit our website at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> a preview of the
event and
registration form.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:36:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
What's your next rec? When doing bodywork, just bondo the entire side of the
car and then cut out the door openings?
How about this rec: To correct a sagging frame, chain and pull each end until
the frame is straight and the doors close properly.
Gee wiz. I hope these cars aren't the ones unsuspecting buyers are forking over
20k and more for.
You should have at least included the name of your shop so that we could
protect the innocent.
Isn't the internet a great place for information.
F. C.
On Wed, 13 Feb 2002 13:00:45 -0500 Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com> wrote:
Ryan
The best way and also, in the long run, the easiest way to even up the door
gaps is to adjust the shapes of the door edges to match the adjacent
front and rear wings (fenders). This is done by cutting off, with a grinder,
the ege of the door skin
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:44:53 -0500
Subject: Identifying Wheel Arches
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 18:12:14 -0500
Subject: Re: NJ registration
They have all the info about the Historic Plates
Jim
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:09:11 EST
Subject: Re: Identifying Wheel Arches
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:30:05 -0800
Subject: brake lits
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:46:25 -0500
Subject: 3rd brake light question
My plan is to attach them to the 3rd light, put felt over them and
then attach to the body of the car. Underneath I was going to use
magnets or just an iron strip. Ideas?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 20:57:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Questions re tools-Harbor Freight
I found that a 1/2 drive socket large enough to just fit in the recess of
the plug works well. Just hammer on the socket. You can even use an
extension on the socket if need be. But that is for the easy ones. The
ones in the vicinity of the firewall are another story as Paul says.
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 21:00:13 -0500
Subject: Just for grins - no Healey
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 21:06:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door and the fenders - what to do?
I agree with Allen's approach. I do not claim to be a pro at doing these
things, but I have done more than one car and I feel that engine and tranny
(or weight substitute) in and the whole car supported just in front and rear
of the crucifix is the way to go to hope to have door gaps when done. Even
with this the gaps will often close back up once the car is on her own four
feet. Have even had to do some rather severe stressing on the frame later
to open up the gaps.
Keith Pennell
> Ryan:
> I'll share my experience with you. I wouldn't grind or bend anything. You
need to
> put the drive train back in the car before addressing the problem. Putting
the
> doglegs and rockers in the bare shell probably made the door fit even
worse.
> In order to get a better fit, I put jackstands near the center of the car
> (w/engine and trans in) and by letting down the hydraulic jack, the door
gap
> widened. It was then I tacked in the sills (didn't need the doglegs), let
it all
> back down to check and recheck the top gap until it was what was needed. A
pro
> shop would probably do something far more fancy than this.
> Allen W.
> 63 BJ7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 21:14:35 -0500
Subject: Re: brake lites
Stephen,
How about a faulty brake light switch? I hear these do go bad from time to
time.
Keith Pennell
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From "R Engelman" <wb8uoj at peoplepc.com>
From: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>
To: <lmercibn6@mindspring.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 21:58:31 -0500
Subject: Wheel Arches
A month or so ago I was about in the same boat as you regarding the wheel
arches. I'm doing a '58 BN6, and decided to replace the LH arch. Got the
parts from Moss, and was dead sure they were from a different car. Before I
went to the supplier, I got in contact with a local fellow who has done
numerous Healeys. He told me that I had the correct replacement, but they'd
need quite a bit of "fitting" to make work. He was very correct in that
statement. We were able to make it work, and fortunately it's NOT a Concourse
car, as it's painfully obvious that this arch is allot "flatter" than the
original. The arch needed trimming, and a bit of reshaping along the front
edge. In short, if I had the choice to do over again, I would have re worked
the original as I did on the RH side. I can mail you pics if they'd help you
out
Bob
1958 BN6
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From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 21:16:38 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> any time.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> To: Philip S. Anson <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 8:23 PM
> Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
>
>
> > Phil,
> > I can't thank you enough. This shows me exactly what I needed.
> > This is a perfect example of why this list is so important.
> >
> > Mark Fawcett
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
> > To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:22 PM
> > Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> >
> >
> > > Yes. It used to look like this. These are photos taken when I
stripped
> > out
> > > the old interior. The wooden blocks look like oak, are rectangular,
and
> > > about 5/8 inch thick, covered with the same material used on the side
> > > panels, door panels, and footwell panels - folded underneath and glued
> to
> > > the block, which has a single hole in the center of it, through which
it
> > is
> > > lagged down to the metal shelf beneath.
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> > > To: Philip S. Anson <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 6:54 PM
> > > Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> > >
> > >
> > > > Thanks Phil! Is that a vinyl covered wood piece under the trim
piece?
> > > > Mark
> >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
> > > > To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 3:35 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Does this help at all? It is a '60 BT-7 that was original up
until
> > last
> > > > > spring when this interior was roughed in. I have more photos,
also.
> > > > >
> > > > > Phil Anson
> > > > > Portland, ME
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Mark Fawcett <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
> > > > > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:40 PM
> > > > > Subject: BT7 door seal cap finish trim
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > > I'm beginning to start figuring out the interior finish trim in
my
> > 59
> > > > BT7
> > > > > and
> > > > > > one question I have (and I'll have plenty later) is what does
the
> > door
> > > > > seal
> > > > > > cap (brush aluminum trim piece) screw into? I've been able to
> > locate
> > > > > photos
> > > > > > of the 2 seater and there's a vinyl covered wood piece that it
> > screws
> > > > > into,
> > > > > > but I haven't seen a clear picture of this area for the 4
seater.
> > > Gary
> > > > > and
> > > > > > Rogers book show a photo on page 112, but it doesn't show what
it
> is
> > > > > screwed
> > > > > > into to. My car came with very little of the interior so I
don't
> > have
> > > > > > anything to compare it to. If anyone could email a clear photo
of
> > > this
> > > > > area
> > > > > > to me I would greatly appreciate it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > Mark Fawcett
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 07:39:40 -0700
Subject: cars,cars,cars
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:17:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Mounting Driving Lights etc.
Mark,
I get the impression you're not running a front bumper. If so, you may want
to take a look at the rally style brackets sold by Cape International
(http://www.cape-international.com/). The brackets mount on the to front
rails in the same location where the bumper brackets mount. They're
identical to the original brackets used in the 50s & 60s. They also have
integrated tow hooks, although they seem too flimsy to tow from there. I
installed these last winter on my car and they look great with the 7" Lucas
Flame Throwers.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:21:23 -0600
Subject: Re: SFT700-driving lamps
Mark,
Try Holden Vintage & Classic in the UK ( http://www.holden.co.uk/ ).
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 08:43:45 -0700
Subject: Re: cars,cars,cars
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Philip S. Anson" <pansonm1@maine.rr.com>
To: "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1@mediaone.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:39:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
Bill Schmidt
________________________________________________________________
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From "Sam Marble" <samncyna at netzero.net>
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 12:02:20 -0500
Subject: Cars for sale
> Listers:
> Due to lack of space and too many projects, I am regrettably
offering
> two Midgets for sale.
>
> First is a 1973 (Round Arch) Midget which is a great driving 1275,
> chrome bumper car. Has had recent new top, tires, clutch, brakes,
seat
> covers, and carpet.
>
> Second is a 1970 Midget project car that has been completely
stripped
> of paint and is partially disassembled.
> Would make a good restoration project or a great vintage racer.
>
> Neither car has any appreciable rust. Cars are located in the
Atlanta,
> Ga. area.
>
> Also have numerous parts available. Please contact offline if
> interested for details.
>
> Sam Marble
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 12:23:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
Not only does your response support my original comments, but your statement
below contradicts itself.
If you think a 1/4" difference between the top
and bottom of a door gap is not severe, I suggest you rethink the
appropriateness of your occupation.
If a body man told me that he was going to do that to my doors, I wouldn't even
give him a response. I would just leave in stunned silence. If by some fluke,
my car was already in his shop, I would rescue it with all speed.
Incredible!
Fred Criswell
On Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:39:24 -0500 Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com> wrote:
My technique is used to
correct an alignment mis-match of 1/4" or so difference between the top
and bottom of a door gap, not for hiding severe problems.
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:49:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
Ugghhh...
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: <busyrider@springmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
> WOW!
>
> Not only does your response support my original comments, but your
statement below contradicts itself.
>
> If you think a 1/4" difference between the top
> and bottom of a door gap is not severe, I suggest you rethink the
appropriateness of your occupation.
>
> If a body man told me that he was going to do that to my doors, I wouldn't
even give him a response. I would just leave in stunned silence. If by some
fluke, my car was already in his shop, I would rescue it with all speed.
>
> Incredible!
>
> Fred Criswell
>
> On Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:39:24 -0500 Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com> wrote:
>
> My technique is used to
> correct an alignment mis-match of 1/4" or so difference between the top
> and bottom of a door gap, not for hiding severe problems.
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From jclose at sduhsd.k12.ca.us
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 10:06:31 GMT
Subject: Re[2]: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 13:17:50 EST
Subject: Gaps between the door (reference)
have a look:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/page20.html
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From Steve Tidwell <tidwells at qualcomm.com>
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 10:20:42 -0800
Subject: 100-4 exhaust
Thanks,
Steve Tidwell
BN2
San Diego
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from the A pillar to the B pillar to hold the opening secure, cut and
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 15:25:04 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (reference)
Ken Beck
BN1
BJ7
>In a message dated 02/14/2002 1:19:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, >
WilKo@aol.com writes:
>
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/page20.html
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From STEVEN.SCHMIDT at Inrange.com
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:40:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
For those purists out there... If I can't alter the door to fit the opening
and I can't leave the leaf springs punching through the trunk boxes, can
you offer a method to take the sag out of the frame?
Steve Schmidt
BJ7
XJS
P.S. Hey Bill, nice to know there's another "Schmidty" out there.
<busyrider@springm
ail.com> To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent by: cc:
owner-healeys@auto Subject: Re: Re: Re: Gaps
between the door and common sense
x.team.net
02/14/2002 12:23
PM
Please respond to
busyrider
WOW!
Not only does your response support my original comments, but your
statement below contradicts itself.
If you think a 1/4" difference between the top
and bottom of a door gap is not severe, I suggest you rethink the
appropriateness of your occupation.
If a body man told me that he was going to do that to my doors, I wouldn't
even give him a response. I would just leave in stunned silence. If by some
fluke, my car was already in his shop, I would rescue it with all speed.
Incredible!
Fred Criswell
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Sam Marble" <samncyna@netzero.net>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:51:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (reference)
Bill Schmidt
ah100m
Restored:
280 SL
300 SL
AH 3000 x 2
XKE
XK-120
TR3, 4, 4A, 7
+4
MGTC
MGTD
and other partials
(not in the business any longer, by my own choice)
________________________________________________________________
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:56:41 -0500
Subject: Gaps between the door (reference)
> Larry varley is going beyond the call of duty here...
>
> have a look:
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/page20.html
Beyond the call of duty?
No, not really. This is the sort of work that's needed to bring the gaps
back to what is required. Hats off to his beautiful efforts. More
restorations need to be done with this kind of quality.
Rich Chrysler
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:18:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:49:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Gaps between the door (reference)
The number of Healeys that you have "restored" explains how you acquired your
techniques.
Sorry if my comments offend you or others, but otherwise unsuspecting owners
will read see your poop and think it is chocolate candy. And that's putting it
nicely.
Respectfully yours,
Alfredo Frederico Fernando Criswell
On Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:51:36 -0500 Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com> wrote:
Bill Schmidt
ah100m
Restored:
280 SL
300 SL
AH 3000 x 2
XKE
XK-120
TR3, 4, 4A, 7
+4
MGTC
MGTD
and other partials
(not in the business any longer, by my own choice)
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:08:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re:Wheel Arches
http://athene.as.arizona.edu/~fwildi/cars/bj7/scans/external_body_fitted.jpg
Francois Wildi
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings!
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From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:30:11 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:Wheel Arches
<<You get that added benefit of getting rid of the
electro-chemical corrosion that takes place along the rear shroud.>>
Ed asked me to relay the following question re that stupid statement:
"er, what is the inner structure of the car made of?? Alum?? RAREST Big
Healey in the entire world!!
You are a lucky guy, Francois!!!"
Suzie
'65 Sprite
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:31:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gaps between the door
Jim
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:37:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hardtop In COPART Auction
An employee friend called me since I had a Healey. It is black and all
trim appears to be there, although the paint appears scuffed and my
friend said the rear window is cracked down the middle and the headliner
is torn. Could be useful for the the parts though.
The hardtop is Lot 759302. If anyone is a registered buyer they can see
photos on the Copart website and enter an internet bid.
No interest, etc. . . personally, I haven't had my Healey's softtop on
for a decade.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:43:44 -0800
Subject: performance
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From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:20:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door and the fenders - what to do?
Gee isn't this fun.
Mike Tobin
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 22:41:06 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door
I was not willing to chance it or hope that the weight transfer to the sills
through the inner body panels would be enough to stop the flex. I fabricated
a profile from 12 gauge steel of the frame from in front of the rear shock
mounts, all the way back to the rear cross bar at the boot. The frame welds
top and bottom were cut out and this piece was slipped in and welded top and
bottom for the length...can't even tell that it is there. I measured again
with 400 pounds of weight holding the frame down on the sawhorse...which was
placed in front of the rear shock mounts. The flex at the rear crossbar was
down to 1/16 at the point where the frame just lifted off of the sawhorse.
Much better, and this was without sills or the door shut faces to take some
of the load. After installing the engine and transmission for the upcoming
move I had a friend measure the door gap as I jacked the car up in different
places, and jumped up and down on the sills. Well if it did move it was less
than 1/16.
The rear of the frame was a poor design from the beginning. Beef it up and
the problems will go away.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
>>
With all the discussion about door gaps, does anyone know the root cause of
the problem? There seems to be consensus that gap loss at the top of the
doors is due to frame sag. But is it caused by metal relaxation due to 40
years of dynamic stresses with the frame being supported at the axles with
more than 1000 lbs. of engine, tranny, passengers etc.... or is it due to
weakening of the frame rails due to internal corrosion?. If its simply
metal relaxation and the frame remains structurally sound, then just about
any method of correcting the gaps would not render the car unsafe (unless of
course, an attempt to straighten the frame resulted in a kink). It becomes
then a matter of preference, skill, and desired result. If you jack up one
corner of the car, then can't close the doors, this might mean you have a
deteriorated frame. on the other hand, if when jacking one corner the gaps
remain the same, then even though there might be some sag, at least it is
probably structurally sound. I'll bet when these cars were new there was no
discernable door gap change when corner-jacked. Anybody know for sure?
Jim
<<
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From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:47:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:Wheel Arches
Not like anybody I ever met. Calls a Spade a Spade whether anybody likes it
or not.
"Fault", maybe. Maybe not.
<Stephen Hawkins who expounds upon the
Healey universe through a translator? >>
Don't recognize the name?? Sorry, still a Newbie!!
Suzie
'65 Sprite
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:37:36 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Water Pump Pulleys
Anybody know which type is "correct" for a BJ8? They both work
fine.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From CEWPlatt at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 01:18:05 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door and common sense
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:36:50 EST
Subject: Re: 3rd brake light question
I can take a photo and send it to you, or just send you the magnet. I think
it will be perfect for your 3rd light! I suspect that they are easy to come
by at the local computer store.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN-1 Brutus
Up on Blocks
Not needing a third light
In a message dated 2/13/02 4:48:51 PM Pacific Standard Time,
brouillette@attbi.com writes:
<< This is a question for the 3rd brake light folks or folks who have
magnetic knowledge. I am looking to install a removable 3rd brake light
on the car this spring and want to attach to the car using magnets
underneath the light and probably underneath the rear cowl. How strong
a magnet did you use? What kind of magnets were they?
My plan is to attach them to the 3rd light, put felt over them and
then attach to the body of the car. Underneath I was going to use
magnets or just an iron strip. Ideas?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7 >>
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:09:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Re:Wheel Arches (and netiquette)
2) Now for the insults and abusive vocabulary: I thought there was an
agreement that they were most unwelcome on the list. And I find it
even more abusive when they have to be relayed because for some
reason the author does'nt want to write them himself. Suzie, I have
noted that the 'stupid' is from you directly. I had thought that
Maggie Thatcher was the only gratuitousely aggessive female...
Francois
--- Suzie Clikeman <petuniaswa3@attbi.com> wrote:
> Francois:
>
> <<You get that added benefit of getting rid of the
> electro-chemical corrosion that takes place along the rear
> shroud.>>
>
> Ed asked me to relay the following question re that stupid
> statement:
>
> "er, what is the inner structure of the car made of?? Alum??
> RAREST Big
> Healey in the entire world!!
> You are a lucky guy, Francois!!!"
>
> Suzie
> '65 Sprite
From WilKo at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:59:50 EST
Subject: Re: performance
<< are there any sites out there making any performance parts thanks
Stephen >>
There are plenty of places making performance perts.
Cape-international.com
Denis Welch Racing
SC Parts
AH Spares
From Bree Anna <breeanna1012000 at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:01:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: performance
I am still in "HOT" pursuit of another
MG Midget. If anyone on either of these
lists could tell me if they know of anyone who
has one for sale close in the EAST TEXAS AREA
that might be in my price range, would you
please contact me off list.
I would appreciate it..Also, am looking
for something under $2000.00 if possible
and something "RUNNING",,lol lol
Got to get it home..ya know! :)
You guys have "ALL" been so helpful to me
in the past and I will continue to be
"grateful" in the future..Remember, I will
dance at your next wedding, or if your married
I know where some great thank you cards are
located online...:)
And THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!!
ANY and ALL HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED!!!
BREE!!!
From N0040 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:03:34 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door
I have found that anytime I jack up the car, either at all four corners, or a
single corner to get behind the wheels, I find that the door(s) will not
close properly
without a lifting or pushing down. So I'm very careful until I bring the car
back down, and then everything closes correctly again. I can sure understand
how frame off restorations can cause a host of realignment problems.
If you've ever walked through an automotive assembly plants (we've got plenty
here in Michigan), you'll see the extreme pains they go through to fixture
the subpanels before welding, and then fixtured again when tied together. Of
course, most bodies in cars are "uni-body", so there is no frame per se, you
just need a really well designed and integrated product to take the stress
and handle the loading.
I don't know what they would do today to develop a vehicle that weighs about
2600 lbs. and is so rigid it doesn't move 3/8" over a 12 ft. span.
Regards to all,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:56:02 -0800
Subject: RE: Gaps between the door
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of N0040@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 10:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door
To all the Responses,
I have found that anytime I jack up the car, either at all four corners, or
a
single corner to get behind the wheels, I find that the door(s) will not
close properly
without a lifting or pushing down. So I'm very careful until I bring the car
back down, and then everything closes correctly again. I can sure understand
how frame off restorations can cause a host of realignment problems.
If you've ever walked through an automotive assembly plants (we've got
plenty
here in Michigan), you'll see the extreme pains they go through to fixture
the subpanels before welding, and then fixtured again when tied together. Of
course, most bodies in cars are "uni-body", so there is no frame per se, you
just need a really well designed and integrated product to take the stress
and handle the loading.
I don't know what they would do today to develop a vehicle that weighs about
2600 lbs. and is so rigid it doesn't move 3/8" over a 12 ft. span.
Regards to all,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 14:18:11 EST
Subject: (no subject)
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 12:04:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Gaps between the door (related question)
Jim Wood
67 BJ8
Got something to say? Say it better with Yahoo! Video Mail
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:15:32 -0800
Subject: the ride
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:13:14 EST
Subject: (no subject)
Sharon
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:11:06 +1100
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
If the floor is rusted - so are the sills. Trust me. If you want to remove
anything before sandblasting - pull the outer 'cosmetic' curved sills off -
the ones that you can see under the doors on the outside - which should
extend back into the rear wheel arch area by 2 -3 inches or so (which
probably aren't there anymore). Have a good look. If these 'external sills'
are rusted - get em off - so the sandblaster can then get to the
'structural' sills inside - and sand blast those.
The factory DIDN'T fit engines & trannys to a bare chassis before doors were
hung. The factory DIDN'T have the car standing on suspension & wheels before
the doors/ sills/ floors were fitted. These are just methods to 'shortcut'
the timeconsuming & fiddly measurement & repair required to do a correct and
proper job. People use these methods when the chassis frame itself is
suspect, they haven't repaired it (properly) and they are compensating for
the weakened (by 40 years of misuse/abuse/rust/accident damage) chassis
frame by aligning the car around the sag in their chassis.
Fix the sag - don't 'realign the car around the sag'.
If the chassi rails - the two large structural members which x over under
the gearbox - are solid and repaired - and everything subsequently fitted is
aligned correctly - (floors, sills, shut panels/ scuttle etc - then you can
jack up a Healey at almost any point and still open & close the doors!
Well - I can - on both my Healeys.
The inherent problem is that many people do 'cosmetic' rather than
structural restoration - which is all wrong if you expect to be able to
drive the car for any extended period of time; and expect it to handle as
well. The correct way is the way the factory did it - have a solid
frame/chassis - correctly align the floors/ sills/ rockers/ scuttle - and
then everything else will be correct. But this is also the hard,
timeconsuming and detailed way.
My 100/4 was done properly & professionally - as was my 3000. If you get
this inherent structural stuff wrong - then the car is always going to be
wrong - and will get worse over time - because it will keep sagging if you
don't fix the rust problem within the frame itself. And if it is weakened -
it will flex - and if it is flexing..... well - commonsense tells you what
happens next - it just doesn't ever get better - only worse!
And the forces on a chassis when a car hits a pothole at 70 mph are FAR in
excess of the forces you can apply with a bottle jack to a bare chassis in
the comfort of your own garage....
Do it once - do it right - pay someone who does this professionally (esp
healeys) if you really don't know what you are doing, and if you don't have
chassis alignment diagrams & know how to use a plumb bob.
Rebuild the car the way it was built in the first place - you'll enjoy it so
much longer in the long run. Before you doubt what I am saying - do some
research. Talk to professsional restorers. As them if they fit engines
before they fit doors. As them if they weld floors and sills into cars while
it is sitting on its wheels.
Do your own research - its your money and its your car and its your life.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Wood" <jwood_kc@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 7:04 AM
Subject: RE: Gaps between the door (related question)
> I share the same door gap problem on my BJ8. I have
> removed the engine, tranny, fenders, and doors and
> plan to take the rolling chassis to a local
> sandblaster so I can see what the extent of the
> problem is, and will have a better foundation to start
> repairs. The floor panels are badly rusted and will
> be replaced. My question to the list is whether
> removing the floor panels prior to sandblasting would
> weaken the frame. It seems to me that with them out,
> I will end up with a more thorough cleaning of the
> sill area.
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:21:42 EST
Subject: Re: Speedo/ Odo /Tacho
Sorry, I meant to say tach that runs off the engine and makes the noise. At
least I think that's where the noise is coming from. As for the speedo, it
"gently bounces up and down" in the vicinity of the speed I'm going. How
soon before it breaks?
Shaorn\
Garden Grove, CA
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:24:18 -0500
Subject: auction of works 100-6
Just received in the mail the new H&H Auction list coming up Febuary 20 in the
U.K. A 1958 Austin Healey 100-6 PJB 806 is the ex-Ted Worswick works car
which also featured in the film "School for Scoundrels" is for auction. Would
be nice if one of you bought it and campaigned it in this country.
Good luck
web-site is www.classic-auctions.com
Allan Casavant
100m
Silverstone
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:03:53 -0500
Subject: 50 Years
Well worth the dinero.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:06:26 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
Dear Chris,
If you jack up at the rear frame behind your rear wheel, high enough for you
tire to be off the ground (which means your suspension has unloaded as well),
I believe it's normal for that frame to flex, when the front is still loaded
to the ground. Those box beams are rigid, but that's a lot of mechanical
stress from 10 - 12 ft away. If you jack it up in the middle, right about
where the muffler is, the beam stiffness might be enough to take the load.
Any frame guys out there that can chime in !.
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:06:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 09:56:26 +1100
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
Ok - I've just gone out to the garage, and jacked my (complete and going)
BJ8 up, using a scisor jack (with a 1/2in thick piece of oak 4 in long x 3
in wide between the jack head and the chassis out rigger ) - under the
chassis outrigger - below the drivers rear spring rear mount - ie the
rearmost, outward most point.
The drivers wheel is now several inches off the ground (the height
limitation of the scissor jack.) The fuel tank is full - filled up yesterday
on my way home.
Both doors still open & close. The boot still opens & closes. No paint is
chipped off any edges. No forcing, 'clipping' rubbing or chipping.
Rich Chrysler's last post is correct and succinct - I totally agree. My
point is that the chassis rails themselves MUST be checked & repaired - Fix
the sag - don't 'realign the car around the sag' Rich & I are basically
saying the same thing. Start with the chassis - then attach the rest of the
car.
Chris
PS I'll go and let the car off the jack now - unless there is anything else
anyone needs checking....
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
> <<If the chassi rails - the two large structural members which x over
under
> the gearbox - are solid and repaired - and everything subsequently fitted
is
> aligned correctly - (floors, sills, shut panels/ scuttle etc - then you
can
> jack up a Healey at almost any point and still open & close the doors!
> Well - I can - on both my Healeys.>>
>
> Dear Chris,
> If you jack up at the rear frame behind your rear wheel, high enough for
you
> tire to be off the ground (which means your suspension has unloaded as
well),
> I believe it's normal for that frame to flex, when the front is still
loaded
> to the ground. Those box beams are rigid, but that's a lot of mechanical
> stress from 10 - 12 ft away. If you jack it up in the middle, right about
> where the muffler is, the beam stiffness might be enough to take the load.
>
> Any frame guys out there that can chime in !.
>
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 19:41:54 -0500
Subject: Cool Healey for Sale Site
has anyone been to http://www.harwood-enterprises.com/british/index.html
Of course, you probably all have been there, but it was a first time for me.
The coolest thing is that they have lots of healeys for sale and each car has
pages of pictures of car details. Interesting to see all the different types
of interiors, color combinations, quality of restorations, etc..
With as much as we know about healeys, it is fun to notice the subtle
differences between cars.
And most of them have 1/4 inch gaps around the doors! :)
Ryan
BJ7
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From Tomdamit at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 20:04:30 EST
Subject: So Cal Nasty Boys
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 20:30:40 EST
Subject: Texas Healey Rond Up
RU will be held April 12, 13, 14, 2002 at the Tanglewood Resort on Lake
Texoma.
Visit NTAHC web site for registration information and form. <<A
HREF="www.ntahc.org">ntahc.org</A>>
Come on down for some true Texas hospitality.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 19:13:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
This seems to indicate using a "rotisserie" to do anything but cosmetic
work on the frame/chassis might not be a good idea, no?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I've been watching this thread for a few days now, and almost everyone has
> missed the simple fact that though Healeys have a chassis frame, they are
> not entirely frame structured cars. They are a semi frame and semi unibody
> design. Examine the structure carefully. There is the frame as we commonly
> think about it, consisting of the two parallel front to back box sections,
> an 'X' section in the middle, two front outriggers, two rear outriggers, a
> front crossmember complete with the front suspension towers, and finally
> there is a rear crossmember.
> Alone, this structure, even from new, will flex to a certain degree. Oh
> horrors!
> Now for the rest of the story.
> The front firewall / cowl assembly is tied to the frame section in a number
> of places, including the floors, toeboards, and the all important inner
> sills, which incidentally are the first things to deteriorate.
> The rear scuttle area, inluding the entire inner structure aft of the door
> openings are also tied onto the chassis in a number of places, including
> again the inner sills, floors, rear wheel arches, trunk floor and associated
> bracing.
> My most important point to all this is the fact that every bit of metal that
> is welded to the basic chassis frame is working as a team, yes....even the
> floors!
> As with any team structure, remove any member, and the whole is weakened.
> To summarize in a nutshell:
> 1. Support the rust ravaged structure in such a way that the original
> untouched outer panels will line up correctly. This often requires
> supporting the chassis in the middle areas, to reverse the 40 year tendency
> to settle amidships (I think it's called gravity) You'll know you're on the
> right path when you see that the outer body panels will line up, and door
> gaps will come back, etc.
> 2. Using these original unrepaired (yet) panels as your guide indicator, on
> one side at a time, cut out the floors, inner sills and any other
> deteriorated components, and as soon as possible, replace carefully with new
> panels, tacking only at first to ensure things are indeed where you want
> them.
> 3. When one side is completed, only then attack the other side. If you
> remove everything at once from both sides, you'll lose all your reference
> points, not to mention any sort of structural integrity.
> As for a healthy chassis still flexing, it's been my experience that jacking
> one corner of the car right off the ground resulted in door gaps changing to
> a degree that could only be measures in thousandths of an inch.
> Rich Chrysler
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 20:03:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
----------------------
At 07:13 PM 2/15/2002, you wrote:
>Rich, et al,
>
>This seems to indicate using a "rotisserie" to do anything but cosmetic
>work on the frame/chassis might not be a good idea, no?
>
>Bob
>*****************************************************
>Bob
>Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
>San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
>`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>*****************************************************
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 00:51:15 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
<< How about the George Foreman grill :-() >>
To modern...I think the English have had the proper tool all along, The
Rack...
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 23:20:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel Arches (and netiquette)
Francois is right. You are wrong.
The moral of the story: Until you understand the question ... hold the smartass
answer.
If I were you I would let "Ed" do his own dirty work.
Bill Lawrence
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:43:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
A rotisserie gives you the advantage of complete and easy access to all
areas requiring work. The disadvantage is the fact that any one I've seen
supports the car at the front and back only, again allowing any sag to
remain in the structure. I've seen a lot of cars "restored" with beautiful
welding and attention to detail, but still have the dreaded sag in place.
Then they have to cheat like hell to build the rest of the car with sag in
place.
Rich Chrysler
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 06:33:51 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Water Pump Pulleys
The results were unanimous: the tapered/conical assembly is the original
(correct) one for a BJ8, the cylindrical ones seem to be aftermarket parts.
Do earlier models use the tapered/conical one as well (I don't have the
100M nearby to check)? I'm wondering if the cylindrical assembly was
manufactured by aftermarket vendors or there was a surplus (of earlier
parts) and someone just fitted the 1/2" pulley to them.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:57:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question) and a moment of
p.s. i was called an "old greyheaded 'emm eff'"by a neighbor's kid
last weekend after i ran him outta my parts cars......... i'm just proud
to have hair!!even if its long..............HLY
Rich C wrote:
>>Rich, et al,
>>
>>This seems to indicate using a "rotisserie" to do anything but cosmetic
>>work on the frame/chassis might not be a good idea, no?
>>
>>Bob
>>
>
>A rotisserie gives you the advantage of complete and easy access to all
>areas requiring work. The disadvantage is the fact that any one I've seen
>supports the car at the front and back only, again allowing any sag to
>remain in the structure. I've seen a lot of cars "restored" with beautiful
>welding and attention to detail, but still have the dreaded sag in place.
>Then they have to cheat like hell to build the rest of the car with sag in
>place.
>Rich Chrysler
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 10:11:34 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Water Pump Pulleys
My '66 BJ8 came to me in 1984 with about 50,000 original miles on it, and
the waterpump installed in it was likely the original. It had
original-looking Healey green engine paint on it that matched the rest of
the engine, chipped and discolored in all the places you would expect after
18 years of use, and had the removable screw for lubricating the pump. It
also had a cylindrical pulley on it. It's possible the pulley had been
changed over the years, but I can't imagine why if the pump itself and the
fan were original.
When the pump bearings failed in 1991, I sent it off to Ted Schumacher at
T&S Imports for rebuilding, since there didn't seem to be any new
replacements available at that time. The pump sent back to me had the
conical pulley on it and no screw for lubrication, so I know it wasn't my
original. The fan belt that was on the car with the original pump
wouldn't fit on the replacement, if I remember correctly.
I'm convinced that the cylindrical pulley was original to my car. Given
the propensity for the factory to mix and match old-style parts with new
(other examples are dash mirrors and rear license plate mounting brackets),
I don't think anyone can say that a particular part is "correct", except
perhaps with regard to what the parts books indicate. I see that as the
difference between theory and reality.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Water Pump Pulleys
> Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about the correct shape of the
> water pump pulley assembly for BJ8s.
>
> The results were unanimous: the tapered/conical assembly is the original
> (correct) one for a BJ8, the cylindrical ones seem to be aftermarket
parts.
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From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 10:44:04 -0400
Subject: Help in Dallas- Fort Worth
thanks
tom
pmmacy@att.net wrote:
> Listers:
> Im on a crusade to find a new source for high
> quality/low-cost trim screws and washers. It P***** me
> off to pay $0.20 each (or more) for dull SS screws that
> are a poor substitute for the original bright chrome,
> and $0.15 apiece for the washers to go with them. A
> full TR2/3 interior requires at least 70 of each.
> I contacted Au-ve-co Products (www.auveco.com) and
> requested that they add the needed hardware to their
> product line, or price a bulk quantity to me. The
> response was that they dont do special orders, but
> they would keep my request and add the items to their
> product line IF THEY GOT ENOUGH REQUESTS. Heres where
> you come in.
> Please take a moment and send a note to
> ggilmore@auveco.com. If that mailbox is full you can use
> gary@auveco.com. In the subject line call it British
> auto trim screws/washers. Dont forward this entire
> note, but cut and paste the following section, or
> compose something similar:
>
> Please consider adding #4 x 5/8 chrome slotted
> oval head tapping screws and #4 flush type
> countersunk trim washers to your product line.
>
> Include your name, city, state, country, make and year
> of car, and business name if appropriate. Pass this
> request along to all other British auto clubs, lists,
> businesses, and enthusiasts that you know.
> I know that Triumph, MG, and Jaguar used these,
> probably all British auto manufacturers until at least
> the mid 1960s, maybe later. Even if your particular
> car doesnt use this size/type hardware, send Gary a
> note anyway. Next year you might have a new car that
> needs these! It will be hard for this company to
> ignore a thousand or so requests from British auto
> enthusiasts around the world.
> Presently, Au-ve-co sells the same size/type screw
> with a phillips oval head for $5.74 per 100, and washers
> in the next larger size #6 (nickel plated brass) for
> $4.51 per 100. (Ive never seen the washers in chrome
> in the 35 years Ive been doing auto trim work, theyve
> always been nickel plated brass). I would expect that
> the sizes we need would be similarly priced. Can you
> see why Im hot about this?
> If youve never heard of Au-ve-co, they have what I
> consider to be the ultimate automotive hardware
> catalog. Over 500 pages of bolts, clips, screws,
> fasteners, grommets, you name it. They only sell
> through distributors, but contact customer service using
> the info on their web site to find one close to you.
> Try to chase down a catalog, it will be worth the
> effort. NFI.
> Thanks for your help. Well all benefit if these
> items become available from this source. If it works
> this time, we can have a run at them again for other
> hard to find or over-priced bits.
> --
> Mark Macy
> New Carlisle, OH
>
> 57 TR3 TS16942LO
> 57 TR3 TS17734L
> 59 TR3A TS53427L (Parts Car)
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:02:49 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Water Pump Pulleys
Just checked my "official" parts book for BJ7 & BJ8 and, sure enough,
the picture looks like the cylindrical assembly. I'd always thought--in the
back of my mind--that the tapered/conical assembly was original; it just
looks more "appropriate." Plus that's what was on the car when I bought
it, and I think the pump was original because it had unsealed bearings with
the grease fitting.
It's beginning to look like both types were "original," maybe the factory
sourced from two (or more) suppliers.
Maybe Gary A. knows (don't have the resto book with me :).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Here's a dissenting view, Bob -
>
> My '66 BJ8 came to me in 1984 with about 50,000 original miles on it, and
> the waterpump installed in it was likely the original. It had
> original-looking Healey green engine paint on it that matched the rest of
> the engine, chipped and discolored in all the places you would expect after
> 18 years of use, and had the removable screw for lubricating the pump. It
> also had a cylindrical pulley on it. It's possible the pulley had been
> changed over the years, but I can't imagine why if the pump itself and the
> fan were original.
>
> When the pump bearings failed in 1991, I sent it off to Ted Schumacher at
> T&S Imports for rebuilding, since there didn't seem to be any new
> replacements available at that time. The pump sent back to me had the
> conical pulley on it and no screw for lubrication, so I know it wasn't my
> original. The fan belt that was on the car with the original pump
> wouldn't fit on the replacement, if I remember correctly.
>
> I'm convinced that the cylindrical pulley was original to my car. Given
> the propensity for the factory to mix and match old-style parts with new
> (other examples are dash mirrors and rear license plate mounting brackets),
> I don't think anyone can say that a particular part is "correct", except
> perhaps with regard to what the parts books indicate. I see that as the
> difference between theory and reality.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: BJ8 Water Pump Pulleys
>
>
> > Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry about the correct shape of the
> > water pump pulley assembly for BJ8s.
> >
> > The results were unanimous: the tapered/conical assembly is the original
> > (correct) one for a BJ8, the cylindrical ones seem to be aftermarket
> parts.
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 11:42:59 EST
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
No more questions, except ..."would you like to exchange frames?"
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:53:45 -0800
Subject: noise
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From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:31:47 -0600
Subject: RE: Gaps between the door (related question)
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@pacbell.net]
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 7:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Gaps between the door (related question)
Rich, et al,
This seems to indicate using a "rotisserie" to do anything but cosmetic
work on the frame/chassis might not be a good idea, no?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:56:52 -0600
Subject: Minilite Wheels
Please contact me off list if you have an interest. It takes about ten
orders to fill a pallet and get the good price.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: "spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>; "mgbs"
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 16:15:38 -0500
Subject: Front Cross Member
I would be interested in hearing of how others may have re-inforced this
area. It seems that this cross member takes a lot of abuse (at least on my
car).
Thanks,
Heard
60 BT7
Central Florida
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From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 21:35:12 -0000
Subject: Front Cross Member
> Afternoon Folks,
> Can someone tell me if anything mounts to the front of the front chassis
> crossmember. I want to do some re-inforcing in this area in the form of
> some steel plates and my BT7 has 4 holes in the front of the cross member
> toward the top. Not having ever seen it together, I can't tell what these
> are for. The parts manuals are not real clear in this area either.
>
> I would be interested in hearing of how others may have re-inforced this
> area. It seems that this cross member takes a lot of abuse (at least on
my
> car).
>
> Thanks,
> Heard
> 60 BT7
> Central Florida
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
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> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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> /// Send NOT be sent.
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 16:57:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Front Cross Member
Usually the structural damage is done on the bottom of this crossmember
which is caused by people lifting the front half of the car by placing a
lethal jack pad under the middle of the section and caving in the welded
seam.
I can't say that I ever saw structural weakness on the front face unless it
was the aforementioned damage causing the face to bulge out with distortion.
My point here is that if you just replace the damaged crossmember, and
forget about sticking some further reinforcing plating on the front wall
section which will screw up the correctness of the structure, you'll (I mean
the car) will be better off. Of course, you must afterward never jack the
car here without distributing the forces by using something such as a flat
piece of wood.
Rich Chrysler
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:40:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Gaps between the door (related question)
---------------------
At 12:31 PM 2/16/2002, you wrote:
>.......or you could use a rotisserie like mine, which has two steel
>box-section beams between the pivot ends. The frame is attached to the
>beams which prevents sagging. Also, I use a technique that I learned while
>building nuclear subs at Electric Boat in Groton CT. A piece of piano wire
>stretched next to the main frame members and weighted at both ends with
>buckets of lead wheel weights makes a good straight edge and allows pretty
>accurate measurements.
>
>Ran Bullard
>'67 BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 19:54:31 -0500
Subject: Front Crossmember Holes
"....the front of the front chassis
crossmember. I want to do some re-inforcing in this area in the form of
some steel plates and my BT7 has 4 holes in the front of the cross member
toward the top."
I think he's talking about the front vertical wall face of the crossmember.
I just checked back into some photos of various cars I've owned and or
worked on, and these 4 holes appear in every case. I checked various models
of 4 and 6 cylinder cars and these holes are not used after the 4 cylinder
car, but are retained to the end of production.
On the Hundred (4 cylinder cars) they were holes to mount wire harness clips
for the horn and brake stop lamp wiring.
I know this sounds strange to have holes placed in chassis rails years after
they are not needed, but this seems to be the case. Another place this
happens (for sake of conversation) is on the top of the right side chassis
rail, almost straight down from the distributor. There you will find two
small holes which were used on the very early Hunderds to fasten the chassis
number plate. This practice was discontinued in mid 1954, but these holes
remained 'till the end of BJ8 production.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 20:02:36 -0600
Subject: RE: Front Cross Member
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich C [mailto:richchrysler@quickclic.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 1:58 PM
To: Heard; Healey List
Subject: Re: Front Cross Member
> Afternoon Folks,
> Can someone tell me if anything mounts to the front of the front chassis
> crossmember. I want to do some re-inforcing in this area in the form of
> some steel plates and my BT7 has 4 holes in the front of the cross member
> toward the top. Not having ever seen it together, I can't tell what these
> are for. The parts manuals are not real clear in this area either.
>
> I would be interested in hearing of how others may have re-inforced this
> area. It seems that this cross member takes a lot of abuse (at least on
my
> car).
>
> Thanks,
> Heard
> 60 BT7
> Central Florida
Usually the structural damage is done on the bottom of this crossmember
which is caused by people lifting the front half of the car by placing a
lethal jack pad under the middle of the section and caving in the welded
seam.
I can't say that I ever saw structural weakness on the front face unless it
was the aforementioned damage causing the face to bulge out with distortion.
My point here is that if you just replace the damaged crossmember, and
forget about sticking some further reinforcing plating on the front wall
section which will screw up the correctness of the structure, you'll (I mean
the car) will be better off. Of course, you must afterward never jack the
car here without distributing the forces by using something such as a flat
piece of wood.
Rich Chrysler
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 21:25:05 EST
Subject: Healey Silverstone
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From Cary Alexander <caryalx at surfbest.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 18:50:18 -0800
Subject: HELP WITH BONNET LATCH
I need some help. My Father's 1960 3000 BT7 (or is it BN7?) does not seem
to have a bonnet release lever. I've checked the manual and know the lever
location for both the right and left side steering models, but there is no
lever up underneath the facet? Is there a way that I can safely pop the pin
manually? I've jacked the car and played with the plate ends that surround
the pin, but cannot get enough play to release the pin? Does this mechanism
twist, pull, or turn? And it's very tight manuveuring with that cross
support. Do I need to remove the grill piece to get in there?
Thanks for your help.
Cary George Alexander
North Hollywood, CA
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 00:50:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Silverstone
Bill Lawrence
Healeygal@cs.com wrote:
> What is the production number of Healey Silverstones? Saw one this morning
> at a British car show at the Queen Mary Scottish Festival, am doing a little
> article. It was a 1950, but the owner said they were made for two years.
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 04:25:05 EST
Subject: Re: Hawaiian Parts Liquidation
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:02:38 EST
Subject: Re: Frame (Was Gaps)
When I design a bridge-like structure, I build in a little arch (we alleged
engineers call it camber) so when it's loaded up and sags, it's back to being
straight.
Steve
'54 BN-1 Brutus
Up on blocks in Chico, California
Doors still open and close O.K.
Felt sad and glad yesterday when a British Car group went by...
showing off, at least, three big Healeys (one white over black, one yellow
and one unknown color(s) my wife saw before I looked up)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 07:26:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: noise
Just a friendly suggestion - I realize that many on
this list are not prone to literary materpieces, but
your emails typically leave out so many details it is
nary impossible to even know where to start in
suggesting a solution. There could literally be 1,000
things wrong up front on your car, but without a clear
description of the symptoms, including:
1) type of noise (i.e. whining, clunking, slapping
high/low pitched ??)
2) occurance of noise (i.e. under power, at idle,
high/low rpm gets louder???)
3) Noise corresponds with car speed or engine speed?
In gear or out of gear?
3) please use punctuation & caps if possible when
typing - it helps to understand what you are trying to
say...
All of us take our valuable time in helping other
enthusiasts (such as yourself) with their cars.
Please help us to help you with clearly written emails
in the future. Now, tell us again... what does the
noise sound like and where is it coming from??
Cheers & Happy Healeying!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> hi everybody adjusted valves today .012 cold nice
> and quite now there is noise up front with fan belt
> on water pump,gen or thining chain water pump makes
> the most noise while moving the fan belt back and
> forward i notice the damper with pulley have some
> play not in and out will new keys fix this and how
> about the chain tensioner is there any service there
> thanks Stephen
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 07:33:30 -0800
Subject: King Pin Sets
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 07:39:23 -0800
Subject: Platinum Plugs
Theoretically, a Healey with electronic ignition and platinum plugs might
go 40-50,000 miles between tuneups (if the distributor cap and rotor
hold up).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 09:14:06 -0800
Subject: Front hub nut torque
TIA,
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 09:18:03 -0800
Subject: Wire wheel balancing in Belgium?
Tom Banks
Belgium
'64 BJ8
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 11:37:23 -0600
Subject: King Pin Sets
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 12:50:45 -0800
Subject: pulley
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:24:39 EST
Subject: Re: pulley
> brake lites are working bad switch and now i need some help i have to remove
> front pulley,rad. fan are out motor mounts diconected and exhust what else
> do i have to do to remove to raise motor to clear pulley from frame thanks
>
Did you attend the James Joyce College of punctuation?
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:41:50 EST
Subject: Re: pulley
<<brake lites are working bad switch and now i need some help i have to
remove
> front pulley,rad. fan are out motor mounts diconected and exhust what else
> do i have to do to remove to raise motor to clear pulley from frame thanks
>
Did you attend the James Joyce College of punctuation?
>>
Perhaps the e.e. cummings school of capitalization? :-)
Rick
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 15:17:05 -0800
Subject: pulley
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From Russ Staub <bbb11489 at azboss.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:47:26 -0800
Subject: The List
It's obvious, at least in my opinion, that someone is trying the best
they can, to ask for help. Some people, like Alan, tried to empathize
and suggest in a nice (i.e. constructive) way, possible ideas for
improving these communication problems. Then there are the others, who
use their "intellect" to poke fun at the situation.
Guess I'm too sensitive, or don't have a finely developed sense of
humor. But it does remind me of adults, acting about as sensitive as
grade school kids in the playground.
Just my .02 worth.
Russ Staub
Phoenix, AZ
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:17:27 -0800
Subject: help
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 15:21:57 -0600
Subject: Re: The List
Your comments are very measured, and extremely sensible. My
correspondence with Stephen has been off the list; an in my own
dyslexic style assisted by a failing keyboard.
On a personal note, have you given up that beautiful house in
the hills north of Mesa to move back into Phoenix?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
(P.S. where today it is +8C, I've been checking out my BJ8 an my
thong <wink>!)
Russ Staub wrote:
>
> I enjoy this list very much. It is extremely helpful, and you get to
> "meet" so many interesting, intelligent, and likable personalities. But
> I must say, that the thread which appears to be evolving at present,
> makes me really sad.
>
> It's obvious, at least in my opinion, that someone is trying the best
> they can, to ask for help. Some people, like Alan, tried to empathize
> and suggest in a nice (i.e. constructive) way, possible ideas for
> improving these communication problems. Then there are the others, who
> use their "intellect" to poke fun at the situation.
>
> Guess I'm too sensitive, or don't have a finely developed sense of
> humor. But it does remind me of adults, acting about as sensitive as
> grade school kids in the playground.
>
> Just my .02 worth.
>
> Russ Staub
> Phoenix, AZ
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:36:46 -0500
Subject: ICI Color for Colorado Red
A non-lister has asked me for the ICI paint code for Colorado Red. Can any
of you provide that?
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:51:52 -0500
Subject: ICI Color for Colorado Red
Hi Steve,
According to the info I have ,it is code 3742. Can anyone confirm this?
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:33:02 -0600
Subject: Red ICI Colour Codes
Kind regards
Ed
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 17:38:17 -0500
Subject: Fw: Front hub nut torque
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
> From: <TBanks@LEVI.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 12:14 PM
> Subject: Front hub nut torque
>
>
> > I've just replaced the front hub and brake disk on my '64 BJ8. I have a
> > problem when reassembling. I've done the end-float shimming thing, but
I
> am
> > unable to tighten the hub nut to the specified torque (40-70 ft lb)
> because
> > at no point between the two settings on my torque wrench does a gap in
the
> > nut line up with the split pin hole in the axle. The nut turns about 30
> > degrees between 40 ft lb and 70 ft lb. Any advice welcome. Should I
> loosen
> > the nut off to fit the split pin? Or overtighten? (Or should I be
getting
> > my torque wrench calibrated?)
> >
> > TIA,
> > Tom Banks
> > Belgium
> > '64 BJ8
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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:15:52 EST
Subject: Restoration Guidance
I am planning on beginning a restoration of my BJ-8 after Tahoe. Does anyone
know of a book that can guide a novice as to what steps to take in which
order? I can jack the car up and put it on stands but then what come next;
take out the interior, the dash, fenders off??
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
John B Stevens
"Ruby"
H-BJ-8L-27621
Marquette, MI
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:22:34 EST
Subject: Re: The List
> It's obvious, at least in my opinion, that someone is trying the best
> they can, to ask for help. Some people, like Alan, tried to empathize
> and suggest in a nice (i.e. constructive) way, possible ideas for
> improving these communication problems. Then there are the others, who
> use their "intellect" to poke fun at the situation.
>
My apologies to the list and to the individual involved--I was being a wise
guy and (perhaps fittingly) posted my smartassed comment to the entire list
by mistake as opposed to the author of the message. Inappropriate behavior
in any case and I must continue to work on restraint of pen and tongue....
Michael Oritt
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From rdaulton3 at comcast.net
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:40:09 -0500
Subject: Re: The List
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:20:08 -0500
Subject: Healey Silverstone
Allan Casavant
Silverstone D47
100M
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:26:24 -0800
Subject: thanks
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:22:39 -0500
Subject: Re:
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <rdaulton3@comcast.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 6:40 PM
> does anyone know the ICI code for the Healey "golden beige metallic"?
Thanks.
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From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:24:02 -0600
Subject: Re: The List
Ed has BEGGED me to post the following (so here!):
**************************
Michael wrote and I quote:
<<...posted my smartassed comment to the entire list
by mistake as opposed to the author of the message.
Does NOT make ANY difference. Some "author" will reply to a private message
and include your entire post.
Then the entire List knows and JUMPS on "band wagon".
Even tho you and your "private reply" WAS "PRIVATE":
YOU become THE "bad guy"!! Ask me how I know<G>?
BTDT
<<Inappropriate behavior
in any case and I must continue to work on restraint of pen and tongue....>>
Me too.
Ed
*********************
Suzie
'65 Sprite
From ajtoepfe <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 17:25:47 -0700
Subject: Re: HELP WITH BONNET LATCH
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Heard" <heard@datatrontech.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:29:14 -0600
Subject: Re: The List
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 2/17/02 3:46:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>bbb11489@azboss.net writes:
>
>
>>It's obvious, at least in my opinion, that someone is trying the best
>>they can, to ask for help. Some people, like Alan, tried to empathize
>>and suggest in a nice (i.e. constructive) way, possible ideas for
>>improving these communication problems. Then there are the others, who
>>use their "intellect" to poke fun at the situation.
>>
>
>My apologies to the list and to the individual involved--I was being a wise
>guy and (perhaps fittingly) posted my smartassed comment to the entire list
>by mistake as opposed to the author of the message. Inappropriate behavior
>in any case and I must continue to work on restraint of pen and tongue....
>
>Michael Oritt
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:24:00 -0700
Subject: Re: pulley
> In a message dated 2/17/02 12:46:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
>
>
> > brake lites are working bad switch and now i need some help i have to
remove
> > front pulley,rad. fan are out motor mounts diconected and exhust what
else
> > do i have to do to remove to raise motor to clear pulley from frame
thanks
> >
>
> Did you attend the James Joyce College of punctuation?
>
> Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 17:48:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:18:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: The List
<< Hey Mike, "Smartassed" was last week's
thread...............get on the same
page!!.........we're back to thongs!!..........Where'd
you go to college
anyway??? <VBG> HoYo (222325) >>
Is it just me, or do the rest of you also get the
impression that Ed Kaler and Howard Young are actually
THE SAME PERSON.
Like maybe............a separated at birth
deal..........you know what I
mean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! <VBG>
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:31:03 EST
Subject: 1956 100-M
FOR SALE
1956 100-M, BLACK OVER RED
ENGINE MODIFICATIONS
MULTI-EVENT WINNER
2 TIME CONCLAVE WINNER 1999-2001
COMPLETE REPAIR DOCUMENTATION
CHECKED OUT & READY FOR SPRING
$32,000.00 FIRM
RON FRANCIS
(317) 776-2777
rons100m@aol.com
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 20:42:42 -0600
Subject: Re: The List
Reid Trummel wrote:
>--- Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
><< Hey Mike, "Smartassed" was last week's
>thread...............get on the same
>page!!.........we're back to thongs!!..........Where'd
>you go to college
>anyway??? <VBG> HoYo (222325) >>
>
>Is it just me, or do the rest of you also get the
>impression that Ed Kaler and Howard Young are actually
>THE SAME PERSON.
>
>Like maybe............a separated at birth
>deal..........you know what I
>mean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! <VBG>
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 22:30:58 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 00:19:29 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
<< 4. Remove all the parts and put them in zip lock bags. >>
And take lots of photos that show close up detail of how each piece was on
the car. And how each piece was put together along with notes. By the time
you are done taking it apart you should have 150 + photos and it still won't
be enough.
The Concours guide lines are also a very useful tool along with factory parts
manuals and of course this list.
Richard
From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:38:41 -0800
Subject: Amy Turner....?
From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:40:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Wire wheel balancing in Belgium?
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 02:28:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Wire wheel balancing in Belgium?
Remember that with this approach the wheel and hub and brake drum/disc
rotor are balanced as a unit. The wheel always needs to ride the hub in
the same position as when it was balanced. Mark the wheel and hub with a
center punch. Otherwise if you take the wheel off and remount it in a
different position the unit could be out of balance if the drum/ disc or
hub are not in perfect balance.
Rich
BT7
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 08:55:29 -0500
Subject: RE: HELP WITH BONNET LATCH
Steve
61BN7
>I need some help. My Father's 1960 3000 BT7 (or is it BN7?) does not seem
>to have a bonnet release lever.
>Cary George Alexander
>North Hollywood, CA
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:44:01 -0500
Subject: Your last
Please don't apologize for that. If you go back through some of the
'threads' it is very dependent on who's (whom's) ox is being gored as to who
(whom) is taking the 'high ground'.
As Archie Bunker used to say, "If you can't take the heat, stay away from
the cook!".
Keep it up; irreverence is good for everyone!
Charley
ps: Stephen; you might try spell check, if you have the extra time.
CB
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:03:30 -0500
Subject: LBC not fully Healey related
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:25:06 -0600
Subject: Open Roads 2002
It turns out that we can attend the Open Roads 2002 after all. I
realize that the host hotel has long been sold out. Any other "deals"
in the area or am I stuck w/ $200 per night across the street? Thanks.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:55:31 EST
Subject: Re: Open Roads 2002
See you there we will have the time of a life time at this time there are
aproximatly 590 registrations and approximatly 500 cars coming.
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International
2002</A>
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 08:56:16 -0800
Subject: HELP WITH BONNET LATCH
I'm a little late to this thread, and Steve and Al have passed on some
good information to you already. Since my Healey is also a '60 BT7, I
thought I would help you with the terminology. If your Father's 3000
is a 4-seater (like mine), it is a BT7. If it is a 2-seater, it is a
BN7.
Terry Blubaugh
Dear Austin Healey Officianados,
I need some help. My Father's 1960 3000 BT7 (or is it BN7?) does not
seem
to have a bonnet release lever. I've checked the manual and know the
lever
location for both the right and left side steering models, but there
is no
lever up underneath the facet? Is there a way that I can safely pop
the pin
manually? I've jacked the car and played with the plate ends that
surround
the pin, but cannot get enough play to release the pin? Does this
mechanism
twist, pull, or turn? And it's very tight manuveuring with that cross
support. Do I need to remove the grill piece to get in there?
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:04:36 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
***************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:10:46 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
<< I can jack the car up and put it on stands but then what come next;
take out the interior, the dash, fenders off?? >>
As I remember the dismantling process, it was pretty straightforward. Maybe
too straightforward; dismantling can get out of hand. Peter Egan wrote once
about an a MGB, "Fueled by several espressos and a case of Guinness one
evening, we accidentally disassembled the MGB."
Others can chime in with a good dismantling process (David Nock had one
online at one point) but my strongest recommendation is that you document
each teeny, tiny step in the dismantling process in a log book, illustrated
wherever possible with pictures. (In today's technical world, if I were doing
one, I'd get a digital camera that could take decent close-up shots, and a
lap-top computer, and photograph each step with the camera, storing it on the
computer with each day's log of what had been taken off in what order, along
with any appropriate diagrams of wiring connections, fastener codes, etc.
This is done, of course, along with using zip-lock bags labeled to correspond
with the written log.
Anal? Maybe, but I guarantee that as the restoration goes back together, you
can waste many times the time invested in a well-documented, methodical
disassembly.
When you're ready to start reassembly, all you need to do is start from the
last page in your log book and work to the front because, by and large,
assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly.
Cheers and good luck,
Gary
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:13:03 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Front hub nut torque
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:21:34 -0600
Subject: RE: HELP WITH BONNET LATCH
-----Original Message-----
From: Kocik, Stephen W [mailto:Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 7:55 AM
To: Cary Alexander; HEALEY CLUB
Subject: RE: HELP WITH BONNET LATCH
Cary,
On my LHD BN7 the release pull is above the parcel shelf on the
passenger side of the car. When I was having trouble aligning my hood I
could always "pop" it from underneath the front of the car. Without
removing the grill, I just needed a real long screw driver and moved (pried)
the catch away from the hood lock. Hope this helps..
Steve
61BN7
>I need some help. My Father's 1960 3000 BT7 (or is it BN7?) does not seem
>to have a bonnet release lever.
>Cary George Alexander
>North Hollywood, CA
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 09:30:09 -0800
Subject: Welding Aluminum
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:50:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
>
> This is done, of course, along with using zip-lock bags labeled to correspond
> with the written log.
Gary is right without a doubt. I don't know if my felt tip marker was of the
cheap variety but most of the labeling on the outside of the bags was gone when
I
finally got around to the part in the bag. I'd suggest writing what you need to
on a piece of paper and put it into the bag.
> assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly.
Haven't we read that somewhere before?
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:04:39 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
<< I'd suggest writing what you need to
on a piece of paper and put it into the bag.
>>
Index cards work very well and can be read from the outside of the ziploc bag.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Neil Home Mail" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:17:46 -0800
Subject: Amy Turner....?
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:35:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Pinging or Knock
I saw a movie on Octane showing Pre-Ignition and Detonation back in the
1970's while attending a Union Oil Company of California Advanced
Products class given by our Brea Research Center engineers. All
marketing people went through the year-long series of classes to learn
to sell products to industrial customers.
The film was made in the early 1950's using a 3000+ frame per second or
some such camera developed by the Air Force (love those government
grants) to film a one cylinder octane testing research engine that had a
combustion chamber with a see-through quartz top. The engine could have
the combustion ratio varied. They filmed the actual combustion as they
slowly raised the compression ratio to create pre-ignition and later
severe detonation. The film was then viewed at a much slower speed that
showed the actual flame front moving away from the sparkplug to burn the
cylinder fuel/air mixture across the cylinder's combustion chamber.
The best description I could give of the burning flame front is that it
looked just like the broken wave at the beach as it foams into the shore
across the smooth water from the previous wave receding back out to sea.
As the compression ratio was increased, small areas along the cylinder
wall would begin to auto-ignite from the increasing heat of the cylinder
wall and start secondary flame fronts moving inward to meet the primary
flame front from the spark plug. As the secondary flame fronts from the
sides began to start earlier and get larger they became as large as the
primary flame front from the spark plug. This too rapid increase in
cylinder pressure from this unplanned early burning of the fuel/air
mixture caused the compression pressure rise too early before the piston
had reached top dead center, which resulted in detonation "knock" as the
piston tried to reverse direction but was held back by the rod still
trying to push it up to top dead center. There was no sound in the
film, only a narrator, but the engine would jolt so violently it would
blur the film as the detonation explosion took place.
Seeing the film made it easy to see how a hole could be punched into the
top of a piston, and understand the shock the rod bearings and crank
bearings must absorb in detonation.
The higher the octane of a fuel, the higher cylinder pressure it can
withstand before it will auto-ignite on its own before the timed
sparkplug's help.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Union Oil Company of California 1972-1984
Lawyer 1988+
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:54:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
-Roland
remantling a BN1 after 5 years, grateful for every comment I ever
wrote and stuffed in the bag with the parts
On Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:04:39 EST, Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
:: In a message dated 2/18/02 9:51:11 AM, bugide@solve.net writes:
::
:: << I'd suggest writing what you need to
:: on a piece of paper and put it into the bag.
:: >>
::
:: Index cards work very well and can be read from the outside of the ziploc
:bag.
:: Cheers
:: Gary
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:08:13 -0800
Subject: no help
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:58:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Front hub nut torque
The business about the spacer increasing the strength of the spindle is
something that comes up regularly on British car lists, and it is a FALLACY.
The bearing/shim/spacer/bearing/spacer stackup is not an integral part of
the spindle and is not rigidly attached to it. It does not significantly
resist any of the spindle bending load. As a matter of fact, the tensile
stress put on the spindle by torquing down the nut against the stackup
actually moves the lower surface of the spindle closer to its yield
(failure) point, which is critical in up-bending. That said, the amount of
tensile stress put on the spindle at its base by torquing the nut is almost
negligible. The nut is torqued to provide the proper pre-load to the
bearings, not to stretch the spindle. The reason for cracked spindles lies
elsewhere, not in the spacer or lack of it.
When this came up some time ago on the Spridgets list, I did a stress
analysis of the situation. I have that around here somewhere if anybody
wants it.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of HLYDOC@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 6:13 AM
> To: byers@cconnect.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Fw: Front hub nut torque
>
> NO!!!!!
> Steve that is not the correct way to adjust the wheel bearings on a
> Healey. It is correct on most all other cars though.
> On the Helaey you must install shims between the inner bearing
> spacer and
> the outer bearing until you have the correct amount of end float in the
> bearings, with the nut tightened up to 60 flbs. Then remove the bearings
> and
> then grease the bearings and reinstall with the shims, that you had in
> there
> to get the adjustment. You then torque to 60 flbs and then to the
> closest
> cotter hole.
> By doing it this way you have increased the size of the spindle and
> in
> turn making them stronger. We have found several spindles cracked while
> rebuilding fromt suspensions. And I suspect that the reason why is the
> spacers and adjustments are either missing or done wrong on lots of
> Healeys.
>
>
> Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features.
> You
> can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added
> a
> message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
>
> David Nock
> President/Service Manager
> British Car Specialists
> 2060 N Wilson Way
> Stockton Calif. 95205
> 209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:18:50 -0600
Subject: Re: no help
> I will not ask for help again by
>
Damn, Stephen, you're probably the 5th or 6th person that has been run off by
someone on this list. You probably should learn to ignore the morons 'cause a
lot of the self-proclaimed experts are just legends in their own minds. Most
are
pretty easy to get along with but the others.........just ignore the others.
Try it again if you will. If not, ask me the questions and I'll do my best to
get you some answers w/o all the rest of the hassle. You just have to remember
that some of the folks in the world are a lot better than the rest of us. Who
are they? Post to a list sometime and it will become fairly obvious.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 19:55:27 EST
Subject: Re: no help
I'm not very smart about your car. If I was, I would try to help you.
Please accept my apology on behalf of anyone that has displayed a lack of
tolerance and common courtesy.
Steve
'54 BN-1 Brutus
Sad today
In a message dated 2/18/02 1:04:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
stjepkem@optonline.net writes:
<< I will not ask for help again by >>
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 01:00:20 +0000
Subject: new e-mail address
Mark Fawcett
Carson, CA
59 BT7
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From "Gordon Gilliam" <ggilliam at usol.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:00:29 -0500
Subject: Assembly Information
I have new rear wheel arches, inner panels, shut panels, trunk boxes, bump
boxes, trunk floor and rear floor panels to install, and I imagine there is a
preferred sequence of assembly, but don't know what it is. I need a picture of
the rear end of the sill / inner panel / wheel arch / shut panel intersection
area. Much of this area was totally rotted away when I started, and I don't
know what it should look like. Right now, just trying to hold parts in place,
there doesn't look like enough room for all of this!
Should the wheel arch be tacked to the inner panel first, or should I place
the wheel arch by using the bump box mounting holes ( these seem to be out of
place )?
I suppose there are many reassembly tricks...please share a few of them.
Thanks in advance,
Gordy
BN4, in many pieces
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From "Suzie Clikeman" <petuniaswa3 at attbi.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 19:25:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Front hub nut torque
<<(Or should I be getting
my torque wrench calibrated?)
TIA,
Tom Banks
Belgium
>>
Ed asked me to ask you: Are you doing Newton or SAE readings?? Also, where
bearings greased or done with oil??
Suzie
'65 Sprite
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:31:08 EST
Subject: Re: no help
<<stephen tjepkema wrote:
> I will not ask for help again by>>
Stephen,
Please accept my apology if you were offended by my remark. It was meant in
jest and not out of malice. Wisecracks don't translate too well into the
written word. The list is a great resource and I hope you're not scared away
by a smartass comment.
Rick
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:02:55 -0800
Subject: Encouragement to use the List
Please bear with the occasional unenlightened vibe. I've only been a Healey
owner and using the list for a year, but have gained access to the kind of
knowledge it takes decades to acquire via old-fashioned means. 99.9% of
posters have been very courteous and tactful. One poster even said the
Healey list was much more courteous than the Porsche list of which he was
also a member!
I would highly encourage any newbie with trepidations to go ahead and
post--after checking the archive first, because many of the "usual suspects"
have been rounded up before.
One of my more elightened profs used to say "There are _no_ stupid
questions."
Apologies for the soapbox, but courtesy in discourse is a hot button issue
with me.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
From Healeygal at cs.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:58:10 EST
Subject: Re: no help
> Stephen:
>
> I'm not very smart about your car. If I was, I would try to help you.
>
> Please accept my apology on behalf of anyone that has displayed a lack of
> tolerance and common courtesy.
>
> Steve
> '54 BN-1 Brutus
> Sad today
>
>
Stephen,
That goes for me, too. Please try again in the future if you need help.
There are
many members on the list who are willing to generously share their knowledge
with those of us who don't know everything there is to know about a Healey.
Sharon Tanihara
BN1
From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <stjepkem@optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:16:30 EST
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance/Assembly Information
Thanks again.
John B Stevens
"Ruby"
H-BJ-8L-27621
Marquette, MI
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:54:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
> Hi John,
> I read a booklet on restoring a 100 by Rich Chrysler and followed the
> paragraphs faithfully.
> 1. Empty out the gas tank and remove.
> 2. Empty out the radiator and remove.
> 3. Remove the battery.
> 4. Remove all the parts and put them in zip lock bags.
> Needless to say, step 4 takes a looong time.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
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From Tom Mitchell <tommitchell at bighealey.org>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:24:54 -0500
Subject: Oil Gauge
Now he says "On the Healey, I pulled the oil line to the gauge, and cranked
the engine to pump oil. Got nothing for a while, eventually had to start
the car and let it come up. Bled some out, but in hindsight, I should have
let it flow till it was clean oil.
I will be back in there, because now it reads zero oil pressure. all I did
was bleed the gauge, so it cannot be anything else! I swear this car has a
jinx - or maybe I do..."
I'm about 2000 miles away, is he bleeding his oil gauge/line incorrectly,
should he not be doing this? Are we missing something about how all this works?
His next step after he get his gauge working again is to check his oil
pump, then his mains and rod bearings.
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From "Ray Juncal" <gonzo18 at mindspring.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:31:13 -0800
Subject: restoration guidance
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:31:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Silverstone
Bill Lawrence
Allan Casavant wrote:
> I think that the reason there is 105 Silverstones is that there is a D51 and a
> E51. That is how the 105 count came about. The years made were 1949 and 1950.
>
> Allan Casavant
>
> Silverstone D47
> 100M
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:46:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Welding Aluminum
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:30 AM
Subject: Welding Aluminum
> Does anyone know of someone who can weld my aluminum shroud in the
> Sacramento area? My front shroud that needs to be cut and the repair
panel
> welded in. Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT-7
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
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From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:05:31 -0500
Subject: Healey books and video
I have sold my '67 BJ8 and have the following books and video for sale.
Earle Knobloch
22884 Forest Ridge Drive
Estero, FL 33928
(941) 947-9575
(1) two tape video set "Austin Healey BJ7 & BJ8 Soft Trim Installation
(Moss motors)$40
(2) photos of a six cylinder restoration (bought from British Car
Specialists)$20
(3) Illustrated Austin Healey Buyers Guide (by Richard Newton)$20
(4) Original Austin Healey Restorers Guide (by Anders Clausager)$20
(5) Austin Healey 100/100-6/3000 Restoration Guide (by Gary Anderson &
Roger Moment)$20
(6) Austin Healey Tech Talk ((by Norman Nock)$20
(7) Austin Healey Tech Tips (bought from Carolinas Area Austin Healey
Club)$20
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:58:24 -0600
Subject: Front hub nut torque
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:59:39 -0800
Subject: RE: Front hub nut torque
You can tell Ed my torque wrench carries a metric scale so I'm looking for a
Newton metre reading between 54 and 95 Nm (which corresponds to the 40-70 ft
lb range).
I did the shimming thing with no grease, just oil, to get the thickness of
shims. But now I'm reassembling I've packed the bearing with grease. It
was only when I came to the final axle assemly step of inserting the split
pin that I hit the issue. Another lister tells how there are two holes in
the axle, but still at 40 ft lb the nut has just half covered one hole and
at 70 ft lb, it's yet to clear the other. This is still the case after I
followed another lister's advice to give the back of the nut a rub over with
emery paper.
Rgds,
Tom
'64 BJ8
From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:09:45 -0500
Subject: Collection of three 100s for sale
I have put up a simple web site at
http://www.synapse.net/~fimage/healeys/ to give you an idea of the
condition of these Healeys.
Should you know of anyone who may be interested in one or all of the
entire collection, please let me know.
Thanks,
Richard
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:09:50 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Silverstone
> The book says the E types started at E 52.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> Allan Casavant wrote:
>
> > I think that the reason there is 105 Silverstones is that there is a D51
> and a
> > E51. That is how the 105 count came about. The years made were 1949 and
> 1950.
> >
> > Allan Casavant
>
In researching chassis numbers for "The Healey Book" I paid particular
attention to the seeming disparity in the Silverstones numbers. From the
factory records I was able to ascertain that the build seqience went D50,
D51, E51, and E52. I was not able to find an answer for the overlap, but it
was there in the records.
To complete the story, I was able to locate the owners of the cars in the
changeover period. D51 is owned by a man in England and I have seen the car.
E51 is owned by a man in Switzerland, but I have not physically seen the
car. E52 is in California.
Bill Emerson
Historic Healeys
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 12:29:43 -0800
Subject: thanks again
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:46:03 +0000
Subject: peter geluk
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 12:23:05 -0600
Subject: Re: peter geluk
I received the same email from Peter with an attachment with .doc.scr
extension. I believe it may possibly be a virus because of the extension
and because the subject is one discussed a couple months back.
Peter, forgive me if I'm wrong and please confirm you did in fact sent the
attachment.
Just being mindful of a Trojan Horse,
Carlos Cruz
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 11:46 AM
Subject: peter geluk
> I got an email from peter geluk with an attachment, but
> it would not open op when I tried to look at the mail. I
> would not have looked at an unsolicited attachment. So
> Peter if you sent it to me please confirm and resend.
> If not virus check your computer.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 13:56:09 -0500
Subject: Re: The List
Please quit acting as ED's messenger. I for one do not care what he has to
say any longer.
Keith Pennell
> Ed has BEGGED me to post the following (so here!):
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 11:19:26 -0800
Subject: Re: peter geluk
fyi,
Jim '62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: peter geluk
> List,
>
> I received the same email from Peter with an attachment with .doc.scr
> extension. I believe it may possibly be a virus because of the extension
> and because the subject is one discussed a couple months back.
>
> Peter, forgive me if I'm wrong and please confirm you did in fact sent
the
> attachment.
>
> Just being mindful of a Trojan Horse,
> Carlos Cruz
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 11:46 AM
> Subject: peter geluk
>
>
> > I got an email from peter geluk with an attachment, but
> > it would not open op when I tried to look at the mail. I
> > would not have looked at an unsolicited attachment. So
> > Peter if you sent it to me please confirm and resend.
> > If not virus check your computer.
> >
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 12:59:16 -0800
Subject: Re: peter geluk
-Roland
going back to reassembling my BN1
On Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:46:03 +0000, eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
:: I got an email from peter geluk with an attachment, but
:: it would not open op when I tried to look at the mail. I
:: would not have looked at an unsolicited attachment. So
:: Peter if you sent it to me please confirm and resend.
:: If not virus check your computer.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:56:15 -0500
Subject: Re: peter geluk
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 12:46 PM
Subject: peter geluk
> I got an email from peter geluk with an attachment, but
> it would not open op when I tried to look at the mail. I
> would not have looked at an unsolicited attachment. So
> Peter if you sent it to me please confirm and resend.
> If not virus check your computer.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:59:10 -0500
Subject: Restoration Guidance
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 22:19:16 +0000
Subject: non-healey number event
This came from a friend via the Web:
==================================
Believe it or not, but 8.02 pm on February 20 this year will be an
historic moment in time. It will not be marked by the chiming of any
clocks or the ringing of bells, but at that precise time, on that
specific date, something will happen which has not occurred for
1,001 years and will never happen again.
As the clock ticks over from 8.01 pm on Wednesday, February 20, time
will, for sixty seconds only, read in perfect symmetry 2002, 2002,
2002, or to be more precise - 20:02, 20/02, 2002.
This historic event will never have the same poignancy as the 11th
hour of the 11th day of the 11th month which marks Armistice Day,
but it is an event which has only ever happened once before, and is
something which will never be repeated.
The last occasion that time read in such a symmetrical pattern was
long before the days of the digital watch and the 24-hour clock - at
10.01 am on January 10, 1001. And because the clock only goes up to
23.59, it is something that will never happen again.
==================================
Of course, this all works if one accepts "our" way of counting from a
rather arbitrary point in time and counting in a systematic way that
is based on the accident of our planet's rotation and period around a
star on the edge of the Milky Way... etc. AND us having 10 fingers...
Anyway, it's nice to be around... as it was in 1961 - which was the
last rotationally symetrical year until 6009. I plan to not be
around then... even if mankind is still counting the same way.
Cheers,
Mark
--
Mark A. Petersen
Public Information Officer
Clackamas Educational Service District
PO Box 216, Marylhurst, OR 97036
Voice: 503-675-4013 Fax: 503-675-4203
mpeterse@clackesd.k12.or.us
http://www.clackesd.k12.or.us
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:05:00 EST
Subject: British Car Week
For those of you who are familiar, this is the last time you will receive a
message from this e-mail address. Not that I’m going anywhere, but if
unless someone extremely important has other plans for me, I’ll be
pestering you about this for many, many years to come! For now on if you have
any messages to send to me regarding British Car Week, you can reply to the new
e-mail address BritCarWeek@arczip.com In fact, the British Car Week web site
has a new address as well. The new address is listed at the bottom of this
message. For those of you who have the old web page address listed within
their links, that address will continue to work until shortly after this year's
British Car Week. I’d like to thank you in advance for changing your
links to coincide with the new address. So on to my annual reminder…..
This years British Car Week will take place from May 25 through June 2, so be
sure to mark your calendars. Also, please notify your British car club(s) so
they can be aware of this special event. If your club leaders aren't aware of
this annual event, or maybe they don't understand what it's all about, then let
please them know that British Car Week is a British car “awareness”
week. It's an opportunity for all British car owners to get their cars out on
the roads in their part of the world at the same time, and show them off to the
people who are not aware of them. It's also a great opportunity to get
together with other British car owners in your community, regardless of marque,
and display your cars to the general public.
I guarantee you’ll meet some great people.
There’s no mistaking, British cars of the past are becoming more and more
special with each passing year. Partly because they represent a very
interesting and exciting time in automotive history. A time when a body design
could be scribbled on a piece of paper straight from the human brain, then
brought to life by the bare hands of a skilled panel beater without the use of
modern robotics or computers. It would truly be a shame for anyone to miss out
on the chance to learn more about these very interesting machines and how they
came into this world. To many people, these cars are a genuine work of art.
They are as much fun to drive as they are to step back and take a few moments
to appreciate their beauty. In fact, several years ago the Jaguar XKE was
entered into the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, and is on permanent
display. The Jaguar was the third automobile of the history of the museum to
have this honor, and the very first to be permanently displayed there. This
would be a sign of appreciation for all British automotive designs of the past.
Very recently I had the opportunity to visit the Chicago Auto Show,
representing most of the new models for this next year. The enthusiastic crowd
hovering around the new Mini was a sure sign that old designs are very much
appreciated today. People of all ages were crawling all over the car, yearning
for the chance to sit in the drivers seat. You might say there’s no
replacement for the original, but there’s no mistaking that Sir Alec
Issigonis’ original design is what makes the new car so enticing. Other
than a few standouts, there are no modern car designs that capture my emotions
like the British cars of the past.
The old British motoring days are still fresh in the minds of many I guess, and
maybe they’re slightly taken for granted by those who have been around
for a while. But for those who have never had the chance to experience the
joys of vintage British automobile motoring, it is an opportunity that will not
easily be forgotten. The thrill of seating ones self onto a bargain sized
bucket seat and holding onto a truck sized steering wheel in the cockpit of a
sporty little car that could be purchased on Wednesday, raced at the track on
Sunday, and then driven to work on Monday is a thrill to behold. The sound of
the rumbling engine that lets you know that it is a significant part of what
you are about to do. The smell of the hot engine reminds you that something
important is taking place under the bonnet. The gages on the facia are doing
things that might disturb the casual observer, but they are all a part of a
great symphony to the seasoned British car owner. There is nothing timid about
these cars, and no one can forget they are present.
But if you’re looking for a cushy ride, then you’ve come to the
wrong place. There is no GPS in case you get yourself lost, no electric
windows in case you’re of the faint hearted, and no intermittent
windscreen wipers….unless of course you have an electrical problem. The
heater always works best during the hottest of days of the summer, and the
electrics may drive you goofey if you’re not careful. Your clothes will
most likely smell like exhaust, and in many cases you may have to pull off to
the side of the road, and turn off the engine in order to listen to the radio.
But be there no mistaking that these treasured automobiles are an extremely
exciting pleasure to own and drive, and as time goes on they are becoming less
known to the common public. If it weren't for the great efforts of those who
get them out on the roads regularly every year, they would become long
forgotten by many more. Cheers to those people who keep them on the roads!
So grab your goggles and driving gloves, and be sure to top off your dashpots!
It’s time to have some fun!
See you on the road…..
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
Reply to: BritCarWeek@arczip.com
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:41:45 -0500
Subject: Guide to all articles in 2 US based Healey club magazines?
Are there quick lookup guides for all articles in 2 US based
Healey club magazines?
Mike B
59 BT7
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From Trmgafun at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:19:28 EST
Subject: British Car Week (try again)
For those of you who are familiar, this is the last time you will receive a
message from this e-mail address. Not that I'm going anywhere, but if unless
someone extremely important has other plans for me, I'll be pestering you about
this for many, many years to come! For now on if you have any messages to send
to me regarding British Car Week, you can reply to the new e-mail address
BritCarWeek@arczip.com In fact, the British Car Week web site has a new
address as well. The new address is listed at the bottom of this message. For
those of you who have the old web page address listed within their links, that
address will continue to work until shortly after this year's British Car Week.
I'd like to thank you in advance for changing your links to coincide with the
new address. So on to my annual reminder....
This years British Car Week will take place from May 25 through June 2, so be
sure to mark your calendars. Also, please notify your British car club(s) so
they can be aware of this special event. If your club leaders aren't aware of
this annual event, or maybe they don't understand what it's all about, then let
please them know that British Car Week is a British car "awareness" week. It's
an opportunity for all British car owners to get their cars out on the roads in
their part of the world at the same time, and show them off to the people who
are not aware of them. It's also a great opportunity to get together with
other British car owners in your community, regardless of marque, and display
your cars to the general public. I guarantee you'll meet some great people.
There's no mistaking, British cars of the past are becoming more and more
special with each passing year. Partly because they represent a very
interesting and exciting time in automotive history. A time when a body design
could be scribbled on a piece of paper straight from the human brain, then
brought to life by the bare hands of a skilled panel beater without the use of
modern robotics or computers. It would truly be a shame for anyone to miss out
on the chance to learn more about these very interesting machines and how they
came into this world. To many people, these cars are a genuine work of art.
They are as much fun to drive as they are to step back and take a few moments
to appreciate their beauty. In fact, several years ago the Jaguar XKE was
entered into the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, and is on permanent
display. The Jaguar was the third automobile of the history of the museum to
have this honor, and the very first to be permanently displayed there. This
would be a sign of appreciation for all British automotive designs of the past.
Very recently I had the opportunity to visit the Chicago Auto Show,
representing most of the new models for this next year. The enthusiastic crowd
hovering around the new Mini was a sure sign that old designs are very much
appreciated today. People of all ages were crawling all over the car, yearning
for the chance to sit in the drivers seat. You might say there's no
replacement for the original, but there's no mistaking that Sir Alec Issigonis'
original design is what makes the new car so enticing. Other than a few
standouts, there are no modern car designs that capture my emotions like the
British cars of the past.
The old British motoring days are still fresh in the minds of many I guess, and
maybe they're slightly taken for granted by those who have been around for a
while. But for those who have never had the chance to experience the joys of
vintage British automobile motoring, it is an opportunity that will not easily
be forgotten. The thrill of seating ones self onto a bargain sized bucket seat
and holding onto a truck sized steering wheel in the cockpit of a sporty little
car that could be purchased on Wednesday, raced at the track on Sunday, and
then driven to work on Monday is a thrill to behold. The sound of the rumbling
engine that lets you know that it is a significant part of what you are about
to do. The smell of the hot engine reminds you that something important is
taking place under the bonnet. The gages on the facia are doing things that
might disturb the casual observer, but they are all a part of a great symphony
to the seasoned British car owner. There is nothing timid about these cars,
and no one can forget they are present.
But if you're looking for a cushy ride, then you've come to the wrong place.
There is no GPS in case you get yourself lost, no electric windows in case
you're of the faint hearted, and no intermittent windscreen wipers.unless of
course you have an electrical problem. The heater always works best during the
hottest of days of the summer, and the electrics may drive you goofey if you're
not careful. Your clothes will most likely smell like exhaust, and in many
cases you may have to pull off to the side of the road, and turn off the engine
in order to listen to the radio.
But be there no mistaking that these treasured automobiles are an extremely
exciting pleasure to own and drive, and as time goes on they are becoming less
known to the common public. If it weren't for the great efforts of those who
get them out on the roads regularly every year, they would become long
forgotten by many more. Cheers to those people who keep them on the roads!
So grab your goggles and driving gloves, and be sure to top off your dashpots!
It's time to have some fun!
See you on the road....
Scott Helms
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/britishcarweek.html
Reply to: BritCarWeek@arczip.com
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:01:32 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
I'm changing the rear wheel bearings in my BJ8. Moss has the bearings in
their catalog for $65 each. Following previous discussions about the
availability of some parts locally, I tried that approach: the Autozone
store computer said the bearings should be Timken 209L (but they didn't have
them in stock). The NAPA store crossed the Timken bearing to NAPA part
number 6209NRJ (made by SFK). That's what I got ($53 each).
Of course, the new bearings don't look like the bearings that were in the
car. The NAPA bearing has 10 balls instead of 16. Although the O.D. and
I.D. are the same as the original bearing, the new one is thinner (0.745
instead of 0.905); but it has a snap ring in the O.D. that would appear to
serve the function of a spacer and eliminate the requirement for the
original spacer. However, as I measure it, the outer surface of the new
bearing when installed would be about 0.050" outside the surface of the hub,
while the book calls for 0.001 to 0.004.
Should I take the NAPA bearings back and try Moss? Or has someone gone
through this before and found that the alternate bearings work fine? I
don't want to install these things and then find that there is a problem.
They're too expensive to eat the cost.
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:05:16 EST
Subject: Re: peter geluk
<< I believe it may possibly be a virus because of the extension
and because the subject is one discussed a couple months back. >>
Yes it is a badtrans virus. It had the tell tale _ at start of e-mail address.
Don
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:15:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Guide to all articles in 2 US based Healey club magazines?
<< Folks, Are there quick lookup guides for all
articles in 2 US based Healey club magazines? Mike B
59 BT7 >>
The Austin-Healey Club USA has a Back Articles Index,
a copy of which is sent to all new members. It covers
all articles published in Healey Highlights and
Austin-Healey Magazine since 1970.
If you're not a new member and you'd like a copy, just
send $1 to:
Lee Tauer
c/o Rose City Furnishings
3446 NE Broadway
Portland OR 97232
(Normally we might just say, "Send an email request
to... ", but that way 999 people who have no intention
of ever purchasing any back issue articles send for
the Index. And it's big (20-some pages) and costs
something to reproduce and mail, so to help insure
some true interest we're asking you to find an
envelope and a stamp, write a quick note asking for a
Back Issues Index, and enclose a dollar.)
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:12:59 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:09:32 -0600
Subject: Cape International Heater Conversion Kit
A good friend of mine is looking for some help and is having problems posting
to the list. Here's his message. Please respond to him or the list.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
---------------------------------------
Sorry if this has been asked before (although I couldn't find a reference in
the archives):
Does anyone have experience with the Heater Conversion Kit that is sold by
Cape International? Is it made by Cape International, or just sold by them?
Although the Cape website doesn't give any details besides the price, they
e-mailed me a page from their catalog, including a picture. I just wondered
if anyone actually had one.
Thanks,
Peter
1963 BJ7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:53:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Cape International Heater Conversion Kit
My general experience with Cape has been that their
uprated & after market products are very good quality
and generally deliver on the performance that they
promise. I don't think Steve Norton (of Cape) would
sell the heater if he didn't think it was a vast
improvement over standard. I may be wrong, but that's
been my experience with him. If you want something
that really rocks, you should buy his rose jointed
anti-sway bar--- it's awesome!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Carlos Cruz <ahrdstr@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> A good friend of mine is looking for some help and
> is having problems posting
> to the list. Here's his message. Please respond to
> him or the list.
>
> Cheers,
> Carlos Cruz
> ---------------------------------------
> Sorry if this has been asked before (although I
> couldn't find a reference in
> the archives):
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Heater
> Conversion Kit that is sold by
> Cape International? Is it made by Cape
> International, or just sold by them?
>
> Although the Cape website doesn't give any details
> besides the price, they
> e-mailed me a page from their catalog, including a
> picture. I just wondered
> if anyone actually had one.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Peter
> 1963 BJ7
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:22:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Restoration Guidance
Keith Pennell
> Anal? Maybe, but I guarantee that as the restoration goes back together,
you
> can waste many times the time invested in a well-documented, methodical
> disassembly.
>
> When you're ready to start reassembly, all you need to do is start from
the
> last page in your log book and work to the front because, by and large,
> assembly is the exact reverse of disassembly.
>
> Cheers and good luck,
> Gary
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:37:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Drivers
Just wonderin'
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:27:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> Should we be "Healeyphiles" . . . or "Healeyheads"
> as in the ever
> popular Gearheads?
>
> Just wonderin'
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 00:53:09 EST
Subject: Tachometer conversion to Neg. ground
Thanks,
Dick North
BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:37:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Tachometer conversion to Neg. ground
The proceedure is different depending on what type of
electronic tach you have - BJ8s have two different
types. On kind you can convert yourself quite easily
with a diode, the other is better to send to a
specialist to have the tach housing isolated from
ground... its complicated.
Best way is to get a specialist to look at it & do
it... cost is somewhere around $100. Try the
following (depending on your location):
US : www.britishcarspecialists.com
UK : www.cape-international.com
AUS: www.healeyfactory.com.au
Best Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jag62e@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone know what the procedure is to convert
> the electronic tachometer
> to negative ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Dick North
> BJ8
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 10:29:33 -0000
Subject: FW: peter geluk
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
eyera3@attbi.com
Sent: 19 February 2002 17:46
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: peter geluk
I got an email from peter geluk with an attachment, but
it would not open op when I tried to look at the mail. I
would not have looked at an unsolicited attachment. So
Peter if you sent it to me please confirm and resend.
If not virus check your computer.
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 06:20:04 -0500
Subject: re: Tachometer conversion to negative ground
I recently did this on my BJ8. When you get the unit apart, you will see a
green wire attached to a rivet (ground), and one lead of a diode attached to
the blade terminal that is the power input on the back of the tach. You
have to reverse these connections. I had to cut the diode lead and solder
in a jumper wire because the diode lead was too stiff to bend to reattach to
the rivet. I admit I was a bit surprised when my tachometer worked as well
as it did before, but it did. I followed a procedure provided by someone on
the Spridgets list sometime ago.
Once the leads are reversed and the unit is back together, you have to
reverse the direction of the loop in the white wire on the back of the tach.
I have a more detailed procedure, including taking the tachometer apart, if
anyone wants it.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jag62e@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 12:53 AM
Subject: Tachometer conversion to Neg. ground
> Does anyone know what the procedure is to convert the electronic
tachometer
> to negative ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Dick North
> BJ8
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 06:44:13 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
Blue One Hundred wrote:
>I suggest Healeyolics... Then the Healeyolics'
>Anonymous Step two, 'acceptance' stage would be...
>"Hello everyone, I am a Healeyolic." ;-)
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
>
>>Should we be "Healeyphiles" . . . or "Healeyheads"
>>as in the ever
>>popular Gearheads?
>>
>>Just wonderin'
>>
>>Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
>>
>Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
>http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 04:57:07 -0800
Subject: Tach conversion to negative
I recently did this on my BJ8. When you get the unit apart, you will see a
green wire attached to a rivet (ground), and one lead of a diode attached to
the blade terminal that is the power input on the back of the tach. You
have to reverse these connections. I had to cut the diode lead and solder
in a jumper wire because the diode lead was too stiff to bend to reattach to
the rivet. I admit I was a bit surprised when my tachometer worked as well
as it did before, but it did. I followed a procedure provided by someone on
the Spridgets list sometime ago.
Once the leads are reversed and the unit is back together, you have to
reverse the direction of the loop in the white wire on the back of the tach.
I have a more detailed procedure, including taking the tachometer apart, if
anyone wants it.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
Steve,
I also recently did this conversion with less than optimal results. The
tach runs erratic and "dies" to 0 when idling below 1500 rpms.
Can you elaborate on the reversing of the induction loop. I simply made a
single loop in the white wite that goes to the ignition through the plastic
post on the back of the tach. Are you saying this loop is directional
specific and should be looped in a counterclockwise fashion? I don't quite
understand the science to that.
dp
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:14:32 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
"Steve Byers"
<byers@cconnect To:
<healeys@autox.team.net>
.net> cc:
02/19/02 06:01 Subject: BJ8 Rear
wheel bearings
PM
Sent by:
owner-healeys@a
utox.team.net
Please respond
to "Steve
Byers"
Hello, Healeyphiles!
I'm changing the rear wheel bearings in my BJ8. Moss has the bearings in
their catalog for $65 each. Following previous discussions about the
availability of some parts locally, I tried that approach: the Autozone
store computer said the bearings should be Timken 209L (but they didn't
have
them in stock). The NAPA store crossed the Timken bearing to NAPA part
number 6209NRJ (made by SFK). That's what I got ($53 each).
Of course, the new bearings don't look like the bearings that were in the
car. The NAPA bearing has 10 balls instead of 16. Although the O.D. and
I.D. are the same as the original bearing, the new one is thinner (0.745
instead of 0.905); but it has a snap ring in the O.D. that would appear to
serve the function of a spacer and eliminate the requirement for the
original spacer. However, as I measure it, the outer surface of the new
bearing when installed would be about 0.050" outside the surface of the
hub,
while the book calls for 0.001 to 0.004.
Should I take the NAPA bearings back and try Moss? Or has someone gone
through this before and found that the alternate bearings work fine? I
don't want to install these things and then find that there is a problem.
They're too expensive to eat the cost.
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "healey6.com" <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:45:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
> Hi!
> My name is Howard.
> And i'm a Healeyolic!!!!
> HoYo
>
>
My name is John and I'm a Healeyolic also.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 07:31:43 -0600
Subject: Bearings
When I put new SS Hubs and Wheels on my BN7 I bought bearings from a local
bearing house. After reading your posts, I went to the garage and found two
empty Timken boxes on my work bench.
One has LM67010 on the box
the other has 07196 on the box.
I believe these came as a set, an inner and outer race type of deal. I can't
remember for sure. The race looking piece is the 07196 number.
It has "Timken....England" on the outer edge.
Don
BN7
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 06:29:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I vote for Howards!
>
> Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
>
>
> > Hi!
> > My name is Howard.
> > And i'm a Healeyolic!!!!
> > HoYo
> >
> >
> My name is John and I'm a Healeyolic also.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 06:31:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re: Tachometer conversion to negative ground
Can someone explain why it is necessary to convert the
Tachometer to negative ground on a BJ8?
Jim Wood
BJ8aholic
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 10:38:51 EST
Subject: Re: Healey Drivers
I've been on the stationWAGON for 27 years, but I've been drawn back into
this hellish life of oil drops on my floors, late nights alone in the garage,
hangovers and "lost weekends". <shameful look>
Milford, MI
BJ8
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From Bree Anna <breeanna1012000 at yahoo.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 09:12:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE READ)NO LBC!
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 09:58:44 -0800
Subject: GOLDEN GATE AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB EVENT ALERT
REMINDER: Dave Nock will host a tech session at Sandi Baker's in Alamo on
Saturday, February 23 at 11 AM. Subject: Getting Your Car Ready for
Spring.
Bring your Healey and bring your questions to Sandi's. We will also be
able to update you on the upcoming Healey International at Lake Tahoe in June.
Directions:
North or south on I-680 to Livonia Road (south of Walnut Creek).
Go west about = mile (under I-680 if heading north) to the stop light at
Danville Blvd. Go right.
Take your first major left at Hillgrade. This is marked.
About = mile up the hill, Hillgrade takes a sharp right and becomes Crest
Avenue. Follow on to Tice Valley Blvd. Take a left.
Follow Tice Valley for about = mile to a stop sign. About 100 yards past
the stop sign there is a small road leading off the left. This is Castle
Hill Ranch Road. A short distance down, Castle Hill Ranch Road makes a
right (straight ahead is a dead and). Go right and follow Castle Hill
Ranch Road until you see an array of mailboxes and a large tree that
appears to growing in the middle of the road. Take a right onto Saddle
Road. Follow Saddle Road up the hill to the end, then make a sharp
climbing left up Sandi's driveway. Watch the muffler. Sandi can be
reached at 925-946-1716. You can also reach me on my cell phone at
408-373-6479. See you Saturday.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <CAWS52803@aol.com>
To: <JohnbS7257@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 11:08:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE READ)NO LBC!
Wrong Cindy Williams. Right serviceman. Wrong newspaper. Changed military
location.
Please go to www.snopes2.com and type Cindy Williams in the search box to
get the full story or look for it on any of the numerous web sites devoted
to urban legends.
If only a few correspondents pass these false items on, and some of their
friends pass them on, etc., the messages can multiply like rabbits and
clutter up the Internet with bad information. There is too much of that out
there already.
I implore you - please verify these types of messages before you pass them
on.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>
To: <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 9:12 AM
Subject: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE READ)NO LBC!
> > Subject: Fw: Fw: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE
> > READ)
> >
> > > > Subject: Fwd: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE
> > READ)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > >On 12 November, Ms Cindy Williams (from the
> > Laverne and Shirley TV
> > > show)
> > > > > >wrote a piece for the Washington Times
> > denouncing the pay raise(s)
> > > coming
> > > > > >service members' way this year - citing that
> > the stated 13% wage gap
> > > was
> > > > > >bogus. A young airman from Hill AFB responds
> > to her article below................
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 14:34:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE READ)NO LBC!
> This is an Urban Legend. The oped piece appeared in the Washington Post on
> January 20, 2001 (not the Washington Times and was written by Dr. Cindy
> Williams, Senior Research Fellow at the Massachusets Institute of
Technology
> who was a former Assistant Director of National Security in the
> Congressional Budget Office. There was no response by any serviceman as
far
> as anyone can determine. Please see
> www.truthorfiction.com/rumors/cindywilliams.htm
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
> You can get more information by doing a search on Google typing in the
name
> cindy williams.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>
> To: <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
> Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 12:12 PM
> Subject: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE READ)NO LBC!
>
>
> > > Subject: Fw: Fw: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE
> > > READ)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I'm sure this one won't have a problem getting
> > > around the email circles of
> > > the world!
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Subject: Fwd: Contesting Militart Raise (PLEASE
> > > READ)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > >On 12 November, Ms Cindy Williams (from the
> > > Laverne and Shirley TV
> > > > show)
> > > > > > >wrote a piece for the Washington Times
> > > denouncing the pay raise(s)
> > > > coming
> > > > > > >service members' way this year - citing that
> > > the stated 13% wage gap
> > > > was
> > > > > > >bogus. A young airman from Hill AFB responds
> > > to her article below.
> > > He
> > > > > ought
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 12:55:12 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: Heater Conversion
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Peter Conover" <pconover@attbi.com>
Subject: Heater Conversion
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:26:57 -0600
Listers,
Sorry if this has been asked before (although I couldn't find a
reference in the archives):
Does anyone have experience with the Heater Conversion Kit that is sold
by Cape International? Is it made by Cape International, or just sold
by them?
Although the Cape website doesn't give any details besides the price,
they e-mailed me a page from their catalog, including a picture. I just
wondered if anyone actually had one.
Thanks,
Peter
1963 BJ7
------- End of forwarded message -------
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 13:13:14 -0700
Subject: Shroud
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 16:08:53 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
No experience with the Moss bearings. Personally, if the NAPA or any other
did not work perfectly, I would go to Moss. Not just because it should, but
also we need to support the folks who are supplying the parts for our cars
when reasonable.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> I'm changing the rear wheel bearings in my BJ8. Moss has the bearings in
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 16:21:55 -0500
Subject: WTB: A-H 3000
After foolishly parting with my 1967 Austin-Healey 3000 BJ8 some years ago,
I'm seeking a "replacement." Anyone on the list know of any cars for sale in
the northern New England area? I live in southern Maine near the NH border.
I am also considering others further away, but would prefer not having to
transport.
Thanks for any leads!
== Alex
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 16:27:48 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
Thanks for all the recommendations on the rear wheel bearings. Many
suggested going to my "local bearing house". Well, I live in extreme rural
North Carolina where bearing houses are as rare as Clinton supporters. I
have returned the bearings to NAPA and will be ordering from Moss (George
Merryweather and your 15% discount off the Moss price and no shipping
charges, heads up!).
This afternoon, NAPA crossed the number of my original RM bearing to another
one, but that one is $85 each so I'm on the other side of the Moss price
with that one.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC ('way Down East)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
> Steve,
>
> No experience with the Moss bearings. Personally, if the NAPA or any
other
> did not work perfectly, I would go to Moss. Not just because it should,
but
> also we need to support the folks who are supplying the parts for our cars
> when reasonable.
>
> My .02
> Keith Pennell
>
>
> > Hello, Healeyphiles!
> >
> > I'm changing the rear wheel bearings in my BJ8. Moss has the bearings
in
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 13:52:42 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Rear wheel bearings
Norm Nock published some comments about the correct bearings for BN1s
a few years ago, also available in his Tech Talk reprints.
-Roland
On Wed, 20 Feb 2002 16:08:53 -0500, "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
wrote:
:: Steve,
::
:: No experience with the Moss bearings. Personally, if the NAPA or any other
:: did not work perfectly, I would go to Moss. Not just because it should, but
:: also we need to support the folks who are supplying the parts for our cars
:: when reasonable.
::
:: My .02
:: Keith Pennell
::
::
:: > Hello, Healeyphiles!
:: >
:: > I'm changing the rear wheel bearings in my BJ8. Moss has the bearings in
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 17:51:30 EST
Subject: Re: Cape International Heater Conversion Kit
Thanks,
John
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Bree Anna" <breeanna1012000@yahoo.com>; <midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 15:25:56 -0800
Subject: Healeyacs suggested
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 16:41:21 -0700
Subject: Shroud
> If someone out there has a usable right rear quarter section of an
otherwise
> ruined shroud that would fit my 65 Bj8 and do not hold that piece too dear
to
> their hearts I would love to buy it.
> Sid 65BJ8
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From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 19:47:12 -0500
Subject: BJ8 parts updated and corrected
1. Timing chain cover
2. Original Rear bumpers (2)-need some dent removal and rechrome.
3. Original Front bumper-same as above.
4. SOLD
5. Vent window assembly-drivers side, good glass, upper frame good ,
lower frame slightly bent.
6. Rear chrome surround (the big U shaped thing-difficult to ship)
7. SOLD
8. Fender spear-, one each left and right
9. Switch panel-engraved chrome piece switches mount through
10. Conv top latches-one pair, rusty chrome on screw plates
11. Front fender left side-rusty bottom, very good from top of wheel arch
forward
12. Door hinges-one full set
13. Front grill slat assembly-damaged but with enough good "teeth" to
make it worth saving. Has a bent set of air baffles attached. Could be
straightened.
14. Trunk latch mechanism-square plate with pivoting hook.
15. Flywheel-good ring gear, somewhat rusty but very useable with a skim
cut
16. Exhaust manifolds (one set)-good condition
17. Rear carb air filter (with breather stub)
18. Heater switch and cable mechanism with pull knob-no fascia...just the
internals
19. About 20 white bath towels with 2 silk screened red Healeys. Great
ground cloth for show display of tools, jack, etc. $4 each plus $5 UPS
shipping up to 10. Most show a slight discoloration along the fold lines
from age. One free with any purchase!
20. Used original windshield mounting rubber. Serviceable.
21. Exterior door handle. No lock-just the casting.
22. Copper water transfer tube assembly-left side of engine above the
intake manifold.
23. Choke cable assembly from the firewall to the carbs only.
24. SOLD.
25. Passenger side door chrome trim.
26. Interior door lever handles, two available
27. New Throttle shaft bushing-rubber grommet with the brass bushing that
mounts in the firewall bracket.
TR-3:
A. Drive Shaft
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 17:19:34 -0800
Subject: anyone need a Healey Hundred front shroud?
Contact me off list if you are interested.
-Roland
near San Diego, Calif.
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From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 20:59:37 -0500
Subject: Matching Car Keys
I've seen a reference to Peter Groh on the list. Anybody have Peter's
e-mail address?
I tried... groh@yahoo.com ... (accessed from an earlier message on the
list) but my e-mail was returned by the system as undeliverable.
Any other good sources that can help to straighten out my numbers?
Thanks in advance.
Daniel C. Tiedge
Ahold USA, Inc.
14101 Newbrook Drive
Chantilly, VA 20151
(703) 961-6083 - (Office)
(571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
1956 BN2
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 21:04:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Matching Car Keys
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From YourName <bjate at postoffice.pacbell.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 21:26:37 +0000
Subject: Non Healey Number Event
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 22:12:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Non Healey Number Event
---------------
At 01:26 PM 2/20/2002, you wrote:
>Mark,
>Using your analogy of the symmetry of numbers the fact that it will never
>happen again is incorrect. It happened last year and will continue thru year
>2012. every 100 years, limited by the 12 month calendar.
>Time Day/Month Year
>20:01 20/01 2001 thru
>20:12 20/12 2012
>The next sequence will be initated in year 2101 and continue thru year 2112.
>So much for numbers.......
>Jim
>Agoura, CA
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:57:22 +1100
Subject: Update to Healey site
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 06:14:00 EST
Subject: British Car Day in Maryland
www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week%20-2002.htm.
This event is open to all British Car Drivers and I have had positive
responses from many clubs in the DC/Baltimore area and beyond who should be
attending in great numbers. Make it a great day, spread the word and be
there!
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Brian Davies" <mrnice3000 at hotmail.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 13:25:45 +0000
Subject: 3000 Valve Rocker gear
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From "Brian Davies" <mrnice3000 at hotmail.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 15:23:15 +0000
Subject: 3000 Valve Rocker gear- AGAIN
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 11:49:21 EST
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland address correction
http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm
Again, this is open to ALL British marques, the only qualification being that
cars be driven, not trailered (duh!). Please help us make this a success by
spreading the word.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:16:29 EST
Subject: Re: 3000 Valve Rocker gear- AGAIN
We do have complete rocker assemplies ready to install. They have new
bushings, new shaft and pedestal if required. Also we machine the rocker
surface so the valves have a clean runnoing surface.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Dave Gay <dgay at simoncontractors.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 11:02:24 -0700
Subject: FW: Very Important! READ IMMEDIATELY
Subject: Fw: Very Important! READ IMMEDIATELY
READ IMMEDIATELY AND PASS ON TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW
Someone is sending out a very cute screensaver of the Budweiser Frogs.
If you download it, you will lose everything! Your hard drive will crash
and someone from the Internet will get your screen name and password! DO
NOT DOWNLOAD IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!
It just went into circulation yesterday. Please distribute this
message.This is a new, very malicious virus and not many people know about
it. This information was announced yesterday morning from Microsoft.
Please share it with everyone that might access the Internet.
Once again, Pass This Along To EVERYONE in your address book so that this
may be stopped. AOL has said that this is a very dangerous virus and that
there is NO remedy for it at this time.
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 06:51:32 +1100
Subject: Re: Very Important! THIS IS A HOAX ALERT
Before you send emails to hundreds of people, PLEASE check any one of a
number of anti virus sites to see that you aren't just forwarding a hoax
email - like this one.....
Please read this:
http://www.sophos.com/virusinfo/hoaxes/budweiserfrogs.html or this
http://vil.nai.com/vil/content/v_10579.htm which explains that the email
you sent was a Hoax - not a real virus. Bookmark this site - and check the
validity of any further 'virus alert' claims before compounding the problem.
Hoax emails are a huge waste of resources.
Best regards
Chris
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 16:52:53 EST
Subject: Dupont Lacquer Paint Supplier Needed
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:46:21 -0500
Subject: New Jersey in Feb
I still get a thrill at full gait when the Laycock engages.
Donald knew
Jim D
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:59:14 -0600
Subject: Penrite steering box lube
I followed the directions and soaked it in a sink full of hot water for 15
minutes. Still had a consistency of mayonaise. Didn't look like it would
go down a funnel if I spooned it into one. Any suggestions from the Brain
Pool???
Brian Collins
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 11:16:17 +1100
Subject: RE: Penrite steering box lube
Yes had the same fun that you are having. Eventually poured the stuff into
an oil can and squirted it in. Took some time but it worked. After all that
I thought about using a grease gun with a flexible hose. That works as well.
Penrite Steering Box Lube is a good Australian product but I have found the
steering to be a little heavier than it was when I was using diff oil.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (lubricated completely with Penrite products)
-----Original Message-----
From: bc1@sbcglobal.net [mailto:bc1@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 10:59 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Penrite steering box lube
How do we get this goo in our steering boxes???
I followed the directions and soaked it in a sink full of hot water for 15
minutes. Still had a consistency of mayonaise. Didn't look like it would
go down a funnel if I spooned it into one. Any suggestions from the Brain
Pool???
Brian Collins
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:20:10 -0600
Subject: Length of bolts securing driveshaft to overdrive and rearend.
Brian Collins
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:22:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Penrite steering box lube
Did you try putting it in boiling water? Maybe your
hot water wasn't hot enough.....
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bc1@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> How do we get this goo in our steering boxes???
>
> I followed the directions and soaked it in a sink
> full of hot water for 15
> minutes. Still had a consistency of mayonaise.
> Didn't look like it would
> go down a funnel if I spooned it into one. Any
> suggestions from the Brain
> Pool???
>
> Brian Collins
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:28:48
Subject: Re: Penrite steering box lube
I've heard getting it very warm and using a turkey baster can have good
results.
I sell the stuff but have yet to install any myself, although my turn is
close.
Good luck and let us know how you finally do it.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautoslubes.com
At 05:59 PM 02/21/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>How do we get this goo in our steering boxes???
>
>I followed the directions and soaked it in a sink full of hot water for 15
>minutes. Still had a consistency of mayonaise. Didn't look like it would
>go down a funnel if I spooned it into one. Any suggestions from the Brain
>Pool???
>
>Brian Collins
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:52:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Length of bolts securing driveshaft to overdrive and
These bolts are shouldered. DO NOT PUT THREADED BOLTS
THROUGH THE HOLES, YOU WILL WEAR OUT YOUR OVERDRIVE
Shaft & DRIVESHAFT!!! Very expensive to repair....
I do not know the exact length, but I would suggest
that you buy the proper bolts from a Healey parts
supplier - these bolts originally do not have standard
heads - they have a special notched head that seats
against the overdrive shaft so that you only need one
wrench to remove the nut. They are also weighed &
balanced so that there is no vibration during
rotation. Get the right bolts... its worth the extra
couple of bucks to do it right. You can probably get
the bolts from:
www.britishcarspecialists.com
or
www.ahspares.co.uk
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bc1@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the proper length of the
> fasteners securing the
> driveshaft to the overdrive unit and the rearend?.
> Are they shouldered or
> all thread?
>
> Brian Collins
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:59:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Penrite steering box lube
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon McLeroy" <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: Penrite steering box lube
> Brian
>
> I've heard getting it very warm and using a turkey baster can have good
> results.
>
> I sell the stuff but have yet to install any myself, although my turn is
> close.
>
> Good luck and let us know how you finally do it.
>
> Jon
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From Laurie Wilford <healey3000 at altavista.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 21 Feb 2002 20:26:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Length of bolts securing driveshaft to overdrive and
Laurie Wilford
On Thu, 21 February 2002, bc1@sbcglobal.net wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me the proper length of the fasteners securing the
> driveshaft to the overdrive unit and the rearend?. Are they shouldered or
> all thread?
>
> Brian Collins
Find the best deals on the web at AltaVista Shopping!
http://www.shopping.altavista.com
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 23:27:02 EST
Subject: Re: Penrite steering box lube
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 22:27:08 -0600
Subject: How to photograph your car
http://www.cobracountry.com/fototips/
Photographically challenged,
Terry Disz
62 BT7
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:17:51 -0000
Subject: Happy Birthday! - Healey related.
Just checked the BMIHT Production Record Trace Certificate for my BT7 Healey
XRU 100. It had its 40th Birthday 10 days ago - produced on the 12 - 14th Feb.
1962 and exactly 40 years ago today, the 22nd, she was on a ship bound for San
Francisco.
Congratulations to my Healey, still sprightly for a 40 year old and today she
is having her higher compression pistons put back in, a fitting present for a
well travelled lady!
Peter
www.aroundtheworld.scotland.net/auric/ghindex.htm
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 04:45:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hunter Healey
A gentleman living in Paris (he, apparently without
e-mail) called me asking about the Hunter Healey
engine. (After two more inquiries within the next
three years it will qualify for Urban Legend
Status...), and so if any of you own one or know
anything substantial about it, please contact me if
you don't mind my putting you in touch with the guy.
(Yes, I said "Urban Legend" and I KNOW that the Hunter
Healey REALLY did/does exist, but you get the idea.)
We're sending him copies of the articles on the Hunter
Healey that appeared in the June 1977 and June/July
1986 issues of Healey Highlights (former name of
Austin-Healey Magazine), but if anyone can add
anything (more than "I saw one once!"), please contact
me. Many thanks.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:05:53 EST
Subject: Penrite steering box lube
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:10:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Dupont Lacquer Paint Supplier Needed
Give a call to Marvin Wolf at William Wolf and Co. in Cleveland OH. 800
447-9653. They've been very helpful in tring to mix up Reno Red acrylic
lacquer for my 100. Please mention that I suggested you call. Their
e-mail is marvinwolf@williamwolf. com. Keep us posted how it works out.
Regards,
Bill Schmidt
'56 100m
On Thu, 21 Feb 2002 16:52:53 EST Rebeltown@aol.com writes:
>Hey all, I'm trying to locate a Dupont paint supplier that can mix me
>up a
>batch of its "old english white #2" 1960. I have the paint code
>number off
>the can that was mixed in 1997 but can't seem to locate a local dealer
>who
>can help. If anyone knows of a shop that can do it please let me
>know.
>Location is not a problem if they can ship it. Thanks, Gary S.
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:02:39 EST
Subject: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
It is offered as an Adobe download in two versions. "Healey Lite" features no
graphics, but downloads in less than a minute since it is only 68K.
"Healey Color" features full graphics and color photos and is about 1.5 MB.
About an eight minute download using a phone modem. 8 seconds using high
speed access.
I also started a Yahoo Groups mailing list for newsletter distribution
announcements that can be found on the web page.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
BJ8 BN4
jamesfwerner.com
bluegrassclub.com
britishsportscarclub.com
And the new www.springthing.info
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From austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:09:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Laquer Paint
I have a local source who can mix Dupont laquer. Says he can't gaurantee he
has the number you're interested in, but if he does, he can mix it. You can
call Finishmasters in Mishawaka, Indiana at (574) 256-1796 unless by now you've
found another source. I spoke to a guy named Craig.
Scott Helms
>Subject: Re: Dupont Lacquer Paint Supplier Needed
>Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:28:58 EST
>Sender: Rebeltown@aol.com
>Recipient: Austrheamgafun@arczip.com
>Scott, There are no paint dealers that use lacquer around anymore. Do >you
>know any??? thanks, Gary S.
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:59:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Speedometer gear BJ8
Jim Wood
67 BJ8 and lots of ziplock bags
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:11:07 -0000
Subject: BN1 Hood instalation
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:32:07 EST
Subject: V-8 Healeys
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 13:17:11 -0500
Subject: Re: V-8 Healeys
You might join the Modified Healey group on Yahoo egroups. It is a list
like this, and you can ask questions of other Nasty Boy owners. Can post
photos too. Go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/modifiedhealeys/
Good Luck
Jim
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 18:21:15 +0000
Subject: Re: V-8 Healeys
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> Are there any other web sites besides modifiedhealeys.com with info on V-8
> Healeys? The father of a friend is working on getting the V-8 Healey that he
> parked in his backyard 25 years ago going again.
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 13:51:18 -0500
Subject: Engine I.D. tag
Does anyone out there have the name of an outfit that can make reproduction
engine identification plates? Mine, like so many others was destroyed when
the engine was rebuilt. The PO never replaced it but I have the engine no.
from my BMIHT certificate. Many thanks........
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 11:40:18 -0800
Subject: looking for right hand boot hinge, 14B 1725, or a pair
Does anyone have a spare 14B 1725, or a pair of these hinges, or know
where I might find it or them?
-Roland
BN1 #724 in recovery
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 14:38:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. tag
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 1:51 PM
Subject: Engine I.D. tag
> Hi Team,
>
> Does anyone out there have the name of an outfit that can make
reproduction
> engine identification plates? Mine, like so many others was destroyed when
> the engine was rebuilt. The PO never replaced it but I have the engine no.
> from my BMIHT certificate. Many thanks........
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg at vtcomposites.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 15:05:16 -0500
Subject: FW: Penrite steering box lube
I have no experience with this exact process but I would think one of those
disposable icing piping bags used for decorating a cake would work well for
something the consistency of mayonnaise or cake frosting using a normal tip
on the end of the bag. My experience is the turkey basting device is hard
to clean out and my wife does not want it back anyway. Do the usual sources
carry this Penrite steering box lube?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of bc1@sbcglobal.net
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 6:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Penrite steering box lube
How do we get this goo in our steering boxes???
I followed the directions and soaked it in a sink full of hot water for 15
minutes. Still had a consistency of mayonaise. Didn't look like it would
go down a funnel if I spooned it into one. Any suggestions from the Brain
Pool???
Brian Collins
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 15:11:14
Subject: Penrite Oil
I've been watching this thread about steering box lube and was, in fact,
the one that mentioned the turkey baster. Now my wife didn't want hers
back either but that was ok she needed a new one anyway so the old one
stays in the work shop, and is good for several applications and being
glass it cleans up easy with mineral spirits or other solvent.
I am the Penrite Distributor for the US and have in stock any Penrite
product you want or if I don't I can get it.
Please check out my web site for pricing www.classicautolubes.com.
Also let me have your mailing address and I will send you a brochure and
other information plus a Lubrication Recommendation sheet by Penrite for
your car.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 16:57:43 EST
Subject: Lacquer Paint avail.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: looking for right hand boot hinge, 14B 1725, or a pair
I do not have the hinge you request. I do have 4 others if anyone out there
is in need.
I have one LH #730292 (real ponted tip) for the early cars I believe
including the 4 cyl ones and three #730306 (rounded tip) for the BJ8s. Not
sure of the handedness of the three. All these are orig not repros.
Contact me off list if interested in any of these.
Keith Pennell
> I need a new old stock right hand boot hinge, original part number
> 14B 1725. I have the left hand hinge, part number 14B 1726, and a
> couple of Taiwanese replacements where one part fits both (more or
> less) and the hinge pins don't go all the way through.
>
> Does anyone have a spare 14B 1725, or a pair of these hinges, or know
> where I might find it or them?
>
> -Roland
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 20:13:55 -0800
Subject: conecting rod
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:55:42 -0600
Subject: more numbers ( non healey related )
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 02:15:21 +0000
Subject: Re: conecting rod
Mark Fawcett
> I`m changing my oil pan and while it was down I was checking ot the play in
>my
> conecting rods. I know there is some side play but if I pull or push long
> enought I feel some play.This is not normal is it.The clock says 79200 miles
> Thanks Stephen
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:42:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday! - Healey related.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Hunt" <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 4:17 AM
Subject: Happy Birthday! - Healey related.
> Hi,
>
> Just checked the BMIHT Production Record Trace Certificate for my BT7
Healey
> XRU 100. It had its 40th Birthday 10 days ago - produced on the 12 - 14th
Feb.
> 1962 and exactly 40 years ago today, the 22nd, she was on a ship bound for
San
> Francisco.
>
> Congratulations to my Healey, still sprightly for a 40 year old and today
she
> is having her higher compression pistons put back in, a fitting present
for a
> well travelled lady!
>
> Peter
> www.aroundtheworld.scotland.net/auric/ghindex.htm
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 21:53:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
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From <Joe at Farley.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 22:43:53 -0800
Subject: Re: more numbers
Id say about 22,222.2 to 1
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 03:26:44 -0500
Subject: RE: Re: Matching Key Numbers
John Schaible <jaschaible@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Dan Tiedge wrote that the key numbers on his BMIHT didn't agree witht the
>numbers on the ignition
>lock. My recently received certificate does not include lock number
>information. Has anyone else
>received this data with their Heritage Certificate? Jack Schaible, 1964 BJ8
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 08:25:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
These could be errors in the original manufacturing data held by BMIHT, or
errors in transcribing the data to the certificates; but the above points
out what can be learned by having many certificates collected in one place
(the BJ8 Registry, hint).
Has anyone noticed that the format of the certificates has now changed?
When I got mine in the '80s, it was just a letter back from Anders with the
data listed. Then, the certificates changed to the fancy blue and gold
"suitable for framing" style. Now, they are back to something more like a
list. According to Mell Ward, who keeps the 3000 Register in England, the
new archivist told her nobody has complained about the change.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
> Dan Tiedge wrote that the key numbers on his BMIHT didn't agree witht the
numbers on the ignition
> lock. My recently received certificate does not include lock number
information. Has anyone else
> received this data with their Heritage Certificate? Jack Schaible, 1964
BJ8
> Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
> http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 06:15:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
John Snyder
1960 BT7
1961 BN7 MK2
1961 BN7 MK2
1962 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>
> To: Healeys List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
> Date: Saturday, February 23, 2002 5:25 AM
>
> The BMIHT certificates usually, but not always, give key numbers. Also,
> even though a piece of certificate data does not agree with the reality
of
> your car, be aware that the certificates do contain mistakes. With the
> evidence of more than 300 certificates collected together, it seems to me
> that the mistakes are occurring more frequently now that Anders Clausager
> isn't on the job. I recently received a copy of a certificate where the
VIN
> identified (HBJ8L/42770) does not match the firewall plate
(HBJ8U/42770G).
> On another certificate, the VIN is given as HBJ8-L-0/42841, whereas the
> firewall tag says HBJ8U/42841G.
>
> These could be errors in the original manufacturing data held by BMIHT,
or
> errors in transcribing the data to the certificates; but the above points
> out what can be learned by having many certificates collected in one
place
> (the BJ8 Registry, hint).
>
> Has anyone noticed that the format of the certificates has now changed?
> When I got mine in the '80s, it was just a letter back from Anders with
the
> data listed. Then, the certificates changed to the fancy blue and gold
> "suitable for framing" style. Now, they are back to something more like
a
> list. According to Mell Ward, who keeps the 3000 Register in England,
the
> new archivist told her nobody has complained about the change.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 09:35:02 EST
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
> My recently received certificate does not include lock number information.
> Has anyone else
> received this data with their Heritage Certificate?
Yes, mine did. I recieved my certificate about 4 years ago.
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 08:28:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday! - Healey related.
Thanks for the reply - yes, there is truth in the rumour about Lake Tahoe.
Three Healeys from the UK - myself and my wife in our '62 BT7 ATW2000 Rally
car. (Scotland)
- Julian Bowen and co-driver - '59 100-6 (England)
- Clive Randall and his sister Pam - 1948 Healey Westland (Scotland)
will be shipped into Baltimore and will then drive Route 50 from Ocean City
through to Lake Tahoe. Our return route will be South via the Grand Canyon,
Dallas/Ft.Worth, Nashville etc.
We are receiving a lot of assistance from various Healey owners in setting
up this drive, booking motels etc. I am still working on the final leg of
the return route and will post this on the list and the British Car Forum
when complete.
Hopefully, we will see you all at Lake Tahoe.
Peter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ingram" <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 3:42 AM
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday! - Healey related.
> Well travelled, indeed, Peter. Is there any truth to the rumor that you
and
> your car will be at Lake Tahoe in June?
>
> Doug Ingram
> Victoria BC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Hunt" <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 4:17 AM
> Subject: Happy Birthday! - Healey related.
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Just checked the BMIHT Production Record Trace Certificate for my BT7
> Healey
> > XRU 100. It had its 40th Birthday 10 days ago - produced on the 12 -
14th
> Feb.
> > 1962 and exactly 40 years ago today, the 22nd, she was on a ship bound
for
> San
> > Francisco.
> >
> > Congratulations to my Healey, still sprightly for a 40 year old and
today
> she
> > is having her higher compression pistons put back in, a fitting present
> for a
> > well travelled lady!
> >
> > Peter
> > www.aroundtheworld.scotland.net/auric/ghindex.htm
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 07:49:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Hunter Healey info thanks
Just a quick note to say thanks for the responses
(including several private ones) to my inquiry for
info re the Hunter Healey. I've printed copies and
will enclose them when we send the photocopies of
Healey Highlights articles to the guy who inquired.
Larry Varley's website is also excellent, as has been
observed here before, but it bears repeating -- keep
up the good work, Larry, and thanks.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 12:05:59 -0500
Subject: Re:Stolen Plates
Early this AM (about 4:00!!) I received a call from a state trooper in
Ohio telling me that a non-Healey vehicle with Virginia plates AH 100-4,
that were at one time registered to me, was involved in a hit and run.
These plates have not been on one of my cars since 1998 and to the best
of my knowledge were turned into DMV. A check today, after standing in
line for an hour and a half, revealed that these plates are no longer
issuable, whatever that implies. A check with my local police precinct
verified that an inquiry on that plate would give my information as the
last registered user. I would ask that if anyone sees this vehicle that
they report it's whereabouts to the local authorities as they are being
used illegally and it would save me a good nights rest!! Thanks,
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Doug Miller <doug at donobi.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 10:14:45 -0800
Subject: Studs, Front Hub Type
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From njones at amadeus.net
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:45:15 +0100
Subject: Upgrading radiators for a 3000 .
I am thinking about rebuilding my original 3000 radiator..now 40 years old
with an modern upgraded condensed core.
This is because I have an Ali head and a newly rebuilt engine that is
pumping out about 30-40 bhp more than original..more power ..more heat..
Although not overheating now, steady at the 188-190F mark ..I think it
would be prudent to carry this out.
I intend using the top nad bottom tanks as original.
Are there any things I should consider before handing over my radiator for
its rebuild?
thx in advance Nick Jones,near the Alps,Germany
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 11:53:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Upgrading radiators for a 3000 .
In 1990 I finished up a complete frame up restoration on my 1962 3000 MkII
BN7 German Body Style Tri-Carb. The car came from Deussoldorf (SP?) .
Anyway I replaced the radiator with an enlarged "Moline 5 row large tube
core" as used in race cars. It was necessary to flatten the front edge of
the original side frames to allow for the thicker core to be to in the front
so as not to reduce fan clearence. The fella I had do it was an old retired
radiator man. He used the old top tank. The bottom tank was made out of a
Chevy II lower tank cut in two and shortened. This allowed for the outlet
to remain in the proper location. It just fits passed the cross member and
looks original in apperance. Its cooling capacity is excellent.
Bob 62 MKII BN7 & BT7 Tri-Carbs
----------
>From: njones@amadeus.net
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Upgrading radiators for a 3000 .
>Date: Sat, Feb 23, 2002, 10:45 AM
>
> After a long break from the list ..I'm back..Greetings ...and have a
> question
>
> I am thinking about rebuilding my original 3000 radiator..now 40 years old
> with an modern upgraded condensed core.
> This is because I have an Ali head and a newly rebuilt engine that is
> pumping out about 30-40 bhp more than original..more power ..more heat..
> Although not overheating now, steady at the 188-190F mark ..I think it
> would be prudent to carry this out.
> I intend using the top nad bottom tanks as original.
>
> Are there any things I should consider before handing over my radiator for
> its rebuild?
>
> thx in advance Nick Jones,near the Alps,Germany
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 16:29:38 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Milestone
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:12:39 -0500
Subject: car wash
Herman
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:28:35 EST
Subject: Re: car wash
<< I'd like to get some suggestions what types of cloth or sponge is
safest to use when washing a car. Please post you responses to the
list as I am sure everyone has an opinion on this subject.
Herman >>
Cotton towels/soft brushes very wet for washing and polishing with "Nu Finish"
Real chamois for drying, cleaning chrome/glass and water spot removal.
Rick
San Diego
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 20:17:59 -0800
Subject: book
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 20:30:45 -0500
Subject: Re: book
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 11:17 PM
Subject: book
> Thanks for the pass information. My workshop manual is not as complete as
I like.On the bottom of my intake manifold front & rear are two copper vacum
lines that go no were. Where do they go, I don`t want to just cap then off
thanks Stephen
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 20:39:21 -0500
Subject: Lever bushing
I have here a brass lever bushing for the bottom of the gear shift on a
centershift tranny. Part number should be 22 B 191according to parts book.
Should it have a thin slot on each side of it? Is it correct to be brass for
the BJ7 tranny? I seem to recall the BJ8 tranny has a nylon piece.
Thanks for any help.
Keith Pennell
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 16:15:40 -0800
Subject: Power loss at speed - fuel tank fixed
I believed (from the list posts) that there is a screen on the bottom of
the pickup pipe. A while back I had the inside of the tank coated and I was
pretty sure that clogged the pickup pipe screen.
To fix it I removed the tank and drilled a hole in the top of the pickup
pipe. I had tried to run a piece of piano wire into the pipe but could not
really do it. Once I had drilled the hole and rammed a piece of wire down
the pipe several times I then blew out the pipe with air and tapped if for
a plug. 1/4 x 24 TPI is ideal. Using a piece of brass stock I then used a
die to thread it, shaped the bottom of the plug to round it to the pipe
diameter and slotted the top so I could screw it in. I cleaned the plug and
tapped hole, screwed in the plug and filed it down to the pipe shape. I
then soldered it in place.
When I was soldering the plug I had the sending unit out and filled the
tank with water. I kept the water running slowly and placed a heat sink on
the pipe that I was soldering just to be certain things did not heat up too
much. In retrospect I believe it best to soldered the plug in place and
then shape the top as it would be easier to heat. After it was all done I
rinsed the tank out a couple of times with denatured alcohol to absorb any
water leftover afterwards.
Worked for me. Be careful with an empty gas tank and heat, don't try this
at home unless you take all the right precautions.
John
'62 BT7, with power no less!
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:54:03 -0800
Subject: CA Gas
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:56:17 -0800
Subject: Platinum Plugs
The concensus seems to be that they work OK, are generally
longer-lasting (esp. with high-voltage coils), but there aren't any
appreciable increases in performance or smoothness.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 17:59:04 -0800
Subject: RE: more numbers ( non healey related )
Jerry, now that's two wierd!
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 18:34:15 -0800
Subject: Question Re Raising Engine in the car
Question--is it possible to raise the engine far enough at the front to
remove the harmonic balancer & crankshaft pulley with the engine in the car
& get the timing cover off if I...
1) Undo tunnel cover to allow the trans to ride up
2) Remove throttle linkage between firewall & manifold
3) Remove carbs & intake manifold
4) Undo exhaust header to exhaust pipe flanges
5) Undo 4 bottom bolts on each of the 2 front motor mounts.
Is this possible without undoing the driveshaft and undoing the rear trans
mount? I have the Smitty Toyota 5-speed and the rear mount is a block of
rubber.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 20:55:43 -0600
Subject: Re: more numbers ( non healey related )
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:31:20 +0000
Subject: On the road again
Peter-
Wow! What a great adventure! Good luck!
I've made some long trips around the US in my Healey and you get a sore
butt but it sure is fun!
Just had a funny thought. The three of you should pull into some back
country, rural gas station, British road map in hand, thick accent, and
ask how you get back on the road to London. That's funny!
Rich
BT7
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:55:05 +0000
Subject: Re: car wash
Hi Herman-
I recommend Ajax or Comet cleaner on a soft large pad of very fine
steel wool. People may not agree but the cleaner can take off anything
from mild soil to road tar and grime. The grit in the cleaner acts as a
mild polish which continually buffs and polishes out the paint finish.
Added to this are the benefits of yet another rub out provided by the
steel wool to make that finish shine. Each car wash makes your finish
look better and better. Wear gloves to protect your hands. Ha ha, just
kidding!
Rich
BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 22:36:34 -0500
Subject: Installing distributor
Was just ready today to turn over friend's BJ7 rebuilt engine when I went to
set the distributor so that rotor pointed to #1 wire with crankshaft pulley at
TDC. Could not do it. It required turning the distributor so far
counterclockwise that the #1 plug wire would not reach plug.
So back to the drawing board. Removed the dist and tach housing and followed
the factory and Haynes manuals. To position the tach housing it said to
rotate the crank until #1 cyl at top of its compression stroke (i. e. #6 cyl
exhaust valve just closed and intake valve just opening). Well, when these
valve positons are right the piston is only maybe halfway up. It then says to
turn crank so timing marker is aligned with pointer on timing chain cover. In
order to do this the crank has to be turned another 1/3 or so turn!!! And
obviously the valve positions for #6 cyl are now not where they were. In
addition, the slot which drives the tach shaft is not in the "twenty to two"
position. More like 12 o'clock!
Distributor seems to be about 1/6 turn out of rotation.
What is going on here????
Need lots of help here please.
Trying-to-follow-the-manual-but-throughly-confused
Keith Pennell
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:00:08 -0500
Subject: RE: car wash
Isn't that the Delorean cleaning method?
Herman wrote:
>
> I'd like to get some suggestions what types of cloth or sponge is
> safest to use when washing a car. Please post you responses to the
> list as I am sure everyone has an opinion on this subject.
>
> Herman
>
Hi Herman-
I recommend Ajax or Comet cleaner on a soft large pad of very
fine
steel wool. People may not agree but the cleaner can take off anything
from mild soil to road tar and grime. The grit in the cleaner acts as a
mild polish which continually buffs and polishes out the paint finish.
Added to this are the benefits of yet another rub out provided by the
steel wool to make that finish shine. Each car wash makes your finish
look better and better. Wear gloves to protect your hands. Ha ha, just
kidding!
Rich
BT7
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From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 22:15:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Installing distributor
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 21:25:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: "Safety Fast" Issues Sought
I wonder if anyone could help me out with the loan of
a couple of editions of Safety Fast magazine (or
possibly send scans of a couple items from a couple of
back issues). I'm interested in the July 1962 and
November 1963 issues, and possibly a few from 1964.
If you have these please contact me off list. Many thanks.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 22:02:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
As for Steve Byers' comment about change in format, mine is somewhat in
certificate form with old cars top and bottom, a logo, and a fine-line
border but it is in black and white.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: Matching Key Numbers
> Dan Tiedge wrote that the key numbers on his BMIHT didn't agree witht the
numbers on the ignition
> lock. My recently received certificate does not include lock number
information. Has anyone else
> received this data with their Heritage Certificate? Jack Schaible, 1964
BJ8
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:06:31 -0500
Subject: fuel gage
My fuel gage on my 100M always reads full. When the car is off its reading 1/2
full. I disconnected all wires to fuel tank in rear in it still reads full
when the car is turned on. Do you think I just need a new gage, or what else
could the problem be.
thanks
Allan Casavant
100M
Silverstone
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From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:49:48 -0500
Subject: fuel gage
Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:46:41 EST
Subject: Re: book
<< On the bottom of my intake manifold front & rear are two copper vacum
lines that go no were. Where do they go, I don`t want to just cap then off
>>
Those are drain lines to drain off any gasoline that might collect in the
intake manifold. Leave them on and don't cap them off.
Cheers
Gary
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From bob Townsend <bobt at net66.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:42:33 -0800
Subject: Re:
> I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called Live and Let Die. took
> place in Japan and featured an interesting car. Looked like a cobra from the
> front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire. Had a slightly curved
> windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100). Had a Healey swag line
> and front fender flash.
>
> Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
>
> No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
> Carl A. Rubino
> ruvino@recorder.ca
>
It was a limited production car made by Toyota. I think they called it the
2000GT. If I remember right, less than 100 were produced.
Bob Townsend
BN-1
BN-2
(both for sale)
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:04:52 -0800
Subject: More on Toyota 2000GT
Looking at its specifications, you will be amazed how radical it was.
The chassis was backbone type, covered with a body made of aluminium panels
carefully assembled in Yamaha's factory. A twin-cam straight six, also by
Yamaha, provided 150 horsepower through a standard 5-speed gearbox. All
wheels were suspended by the perfect double wishbones, and, under braking,
disc brakes provided strong stopping power. Like Ferrari's 250GTO, the
engine sat rather back behind the front axle while the 2 seats rested just
in front of the rear wheels, this created a perfect 48 / 52 weight
distribution between front and rear axle. In addition to the slippery body,
one can imagine how serious Toyota wanted to demonstrate its real ability.
Perhaps it was too radical, production cost must be extreme. Export
seemed to be impossible (in the 60s, who
would buy a JAPANESE car for so much money?), while the domestic
people were not yet rich enough. 2000
GT died away silently in 1970. One car dies, one car rises. In 1969,
Datsun 240Z finally succeeded in overseas
market and established reputation for Japanese sports cars.
------------
At 07:49 AM 2/24/2002, you wrote:
>I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called Live and Let Die. took
>place in Japan and featured an interesting car. Looked like a cobra from the
>front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire. Had a slightly curved
>windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100). Had a Healey swag line
>and front fender flash.
>
>Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
>
>No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
>Carl A. Rubino
>ruvino@recorder.ca
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:17:17 -0800
Subject: Re: More on Toyota 2000GT
A Google search turned up:
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Museum/Tam/Car/Toyota2000/
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hardly imagine a Toyota could be so lack of sales success - between 1967
> and 1970, only 337 units of this car was sold. Being the first high speed
> Japanese sports car, the Toyota 2000 GT attracted a lot of attention in the
> late 60s. It broke many domestic speed records and was even featured in
> James Bond's film "You only live twice". Promotion effort was in no doubt,
> but why didn't it sold well ?
>
> Looking at its specifications, you will be amazed how radical it was.
> The chassis was backbone type, covered with a body made of aluminium panels
> carefully assembled in Yamaha's factory. A twin-cam straight six, also by
> Yamaha, provided 150 horsepower through a standard 5-speed gearbox. All
> wheels were suspended by the perfect double wishbones, and, under braking,
> disc brakes provided strong stopping power. Like Ferrari's 250GTO, the
> engine sat rather back behind the front axle while the 2 seats rested just
> in front of the rear wheels, this created a perfect 48 / 52 weight
> distribution between front and rear axle. In addition to the slippery body,
> one can imagine how serious Toyota wanted to demonstrate its real ability.
>
> Perhaps it was too radical, production cost must be extreme. Export
> seemed to be impossible (in the 60s, who
> would buy a JAPANESE car for so much money?), while the domestic
> people were not yet rich enough. 2000
> GT died away silently in 1970. One car dies, one car rises. In 1969,
> Datsun 240Z finally succeeded in overseas
> market and established reputation for Japanese sports cars.
> ------------
> At 07:49 AM 2/24/2002, you wrote:
> >I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called Live and Let Die. took
> >place in Japan and featured an interesting car. Looked like a cobra from the
> >front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire. Had a slightly curved
> >windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100). Had a Healey swag line
> >and front fender flash.
> >
> >Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
> >
> >No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
> >Carl A. Rubino
> >ruvino@recorder.ca
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:28:24 -0800
Subject: Re: CA Gas
I don't experience any noticeable run-on, but as Bob knows I live and drive
at 7500 feet above sea level in the eastern sierras... Is it likely that
the lower octane matches well with our less-oxygen-rich air?
Best,
Jim, '62 BT7 tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 5:54 PM
Subject: CA Gas
> For the past few months the highest-octane fuel available in (most) of
> California is 91-octane (previously, it was 92). I've noticed
considerably
> more runon (dieseling) with my last couple of tanks, anybody else
> in CA having this problem?
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 10:58:51 -0800
Subject: Re: CA Gas
> Is it likely that
> the lower octane matches well with our less-oxygen-rich air?
Yep (technically, it's the less-dense air that creates lower BMEPs and
allows lower-octane gas).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I don't think I've seen higher than 91 octane in our area in quite
> sometime...
>
> I don't experience any noticeable run-on, but as Bob knows I live and drive
> at 7500 feet above sea level in the eastern sierras... Is it likely that
> the lower octane matches well with our less-oxygen-rich air?
>
> Best,
>
> Jim, '62 BT7 tricarb
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 14:06:25 EST
Subject: Re: CA Gas
> Is it likely that
> > the lower octane matches well with our less-oxygen-rich air?
>
>
> Yep (technically, it's the less-dense air that creates lower BMEPs and
> allows lower-octane gas).
>
> Bob
>
Bob and all--
I'll be heading west to Tahoe this summer. Assuming that I burn 93 at sea
level do you think that, as I start gaining altitude, running 91 octane would
be "self-leaning" or would I still need to raise my jets a bit? I have been
told that only one or two flats clockwise (from underneath the carb) would be
sufficient. Does this sound correct?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:24:26 -0800
Subject: Re: CA Gas
The octane rating of the fuel has nothing to do with the mixture strength.
In fact, I believe lower-octane fuel actually has a greater (potential)
energy content--measured in BTUs--than higher octane, due in part
to it's propensity for burning faster.
Anyway, as you climb--assuming a non-turbonormalized engine--the
mixture becomes less dense and therefore cannot generate the same
brake mean effective pressure (BMEP, the amount of force generated
by the burning mixture expanding against the resistance of the piston).
That's why you have found lower-octane fuel at high altitudes for years.
Some places you can't get better than 89-octane :(
SU carbs are somewhat altitude normalizing; I believe that the less
dense air is less effective in raising the piston at equivalent (air) volumes,
thus leaning the mixture somewhat for the same air volume. Still, the
mixture becomes somewhat richer overall, and since the mixture is less
dense, and generating less power, the idle will slow.
The best method for changing mixture strength is to switch needles.
However, in the recent discussion there was (at least some) agreement
that leaning the carburettors a little, and kicking up the idle, would be
sufficient for a brief stay at altitude.
This is what I have done for 10 years or so in my annual Healey
pilgrimmage that invariable involves crossing some mountain
ranges (Sierra Nevada, Rockies, Cascades, etc.).
This is an (almost) religious topic, but this works for me.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
Is it likely that
> the lower octane matches well with our less-oxygen-rich air?
Yep (technically, it's the less-dense air that creates lower BMEPs and
allows lower-octane gas).
Bob
Bob and all--
I'll be heading west to Tahoe this summer. Assuming that I burn 93 at sea
level do you think that, as I start gaining altitude, running 91 octane would
be "self-leaning" or would I still need to raise my jets a bit? I have been
told that only one or two flats clockwise (from underneath the carb) would be
sufficient. Does this sound correct?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:16:33 EST
Subject: non-reflective interior mirror
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:05:25 -0500
Subject: Non-refective mirror - sort of
Your trips to Pittsburgh are starting to have an effect.
"What Jag is it off" sounds a lot like the way we talk around here, an-at.
Not the way youns talk dun-air.
Welcome to Pittsburghese!
Charley
ps: my spell-check found all the words!!
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 15:19:47 -0800
Subject: point gap
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:28:18 +1100
Subject: RE: More on Toyota 2000GT
Surely the Toyota 2000GT would have to be one of the most drop dead gorgeous
cars of the 1960s.
The interesting connection between the 2000GT and the 240Z was that both
were designed by the same man. Dr Albert Goertz who was an Austrian count
who also designed the BMW V8 convertible (can't recall its model name) of
the '50s and had a big role in the designing of the 911 Porsche.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 5:05 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: More on Toyota 2000GT
Hardly imagine a Toyota could be so lack of sales success - between 1967
and 1970, only 337 units of this car was sold. Being the first high speed
Japanese sports car, the Toyota 2000 GT attracted a lot of attention in the
late 60s. It broke many domestic speed records and was even featured in
James Bond's film "You only live twice". Promotion effort was in no doubt,
but why didn't it sold well ?
Looking at its specifications, you will be amazed how radical it was.
The chassis was backbone type, covered with a body made of aluminium panels
carefully assembled in Yamaha's factory. A twin-cam straight six, also by
Yamaha, provided 150 horsepower through a standard 5-speed gearbox. All
wheels were suspended by the perfect double wishbones, and, under braking,
disc brakes provided strong stopping power. Like Ferrari's 250GTO, the
engine sat rather back behind the front axle while the 2 seats rested just
in front of the rear wheels, this created a perfect 48 / 52 weight
distribution between front and rear axle. In addition to the slippery body,
one can imagine how serious Toyota wanted to demonstrate its real ability.
Perhaps it was too radical, production cost must be extreme. Export
seemed to be impossible (in the 60s, who
would buy a JAPANESE car for so much money?), while the domestic
people were not yet rich enough. 2000
GT died away silently in 1970. One car dies, one car rises. In 1969,
Datsun 240Z finally succeeded in overseas
market and established reputation for Japanese sports cars.
------------
At 07:49 AM 2/24/2002, you wrote:
>I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called Live and Let Die. took
>place in Japan and featured an interesting car. Looked like a cobra from
the
>front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire. Had a slightly curved
>windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100). Had a Healey swag line
>and front fender flash.
>
>Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
>
>No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
>Carl A. Rubino
>ruvino@recorder.ca
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:36:59 EST
Subject: Re: More on Toyota 2000GT
> Dr Albert Goertz who was an Austrian count
> who also designed the BMW V8 convertible (can't recall its model name)
must have been the 507--there is a similarity in the basic line of the two
cars.
Michael
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:32:02 -0500
Subject: Re: point gap
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 6:19 PM
Subject: point gap
> can anyone help me with th epoint gap on a MKI3000?
> I can't find my shop manual and I can't remmember if its .16 or 19 or ??
> Thanks,'
> I'm trying to get my car out of the garage before dark and or rain.
> Ira
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:39:05 +1100
Subject: RE: More on Toyota 2000GT
-----Original Message-----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com [mailto:Awgertoo@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 10:37 AM
To: Quinn, Patrick; bkatz@handsonresearch.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: More on Toyota 2000GT
In a message dated 2/24/02 6:31:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
Dr Albert Goertz who was an Austrian count
who also designed the BMW V8 convertible (can't recall its model name)
must have been the 507--there is a similarity in the basic line of the two
cars.
Michael
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:41:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing distributor
Thanks for the info. Since the engine was rebuilt by someone else, cannot
verify the cam timing is correct. 2 or 3 others have suggested this as the
possible cause of my woes.
Interestingly, I was reading in the Haynes manual this afternoon about
installing the dist and it said to go by #6 cyl at TDC with #1 exhaust
closing and intake opening. This is before inserting the tach drive gear in
the block. Why is this manual procedure based upon #6 and the other two I
looked at yesterday based upon #1??????
Don't think the 180 thing is the problem because as you said I seem to be
1/6 of a turn out of whack with the distributor. Will try reinserting the
dist drive gear but that will still not resolve the fact that #1 cylinder at
top of its compression stroke does not coincide with #6 cyl exhaust closing
and intake opening.
Still confused but very suspicious of the cam timing
Keith
> Keith:
>
> I'm assuming that the valve timing is correct - ie: the timing chain has
> been installed correctly - although your posting has me thinking about
that!
> I'd double check it if I were you.
>
> It is confusing, but it sounds like the distributor drive gear is one
tooth
> off. Try re-inserting it, meshing it to the next tooth clockwise and see
> what happens. You should be close. You need to be sure that it is #1 at
> the firing position, and that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug lead in
> the cap. It's possible to get the tach drive extension spindle 180 degrees
> out - don't want that! It's also possible that it has to be that way if
the
> distributor is also 180 degrees out! (Two backwards makes a forward?)
Have
> fun -----------------
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
> Listers I Need Help!
>
> Was just ready today to turn over friend's BJ7 rebuilt engine when I went
to
> set the distributor so that rotor pointed to #1 wire with crankshaft
pulley
> at
> TDC. Could not do it. It required turning the distributor so far
> counterclockwise that the #1 plug wire would not reach plug.
>
> So back to the drawing board. Removed the dist and tach housing and
> followed
> the factory and Haynes manuals. To position the tach housing it said to
> rotate the crank until #1 cyl at top of its compression stroke (i. e. #6
cyl
> exhaust valve just closed and intake valve just opening). Well, when
these
> valve positons are right the piston is only maybe halfway up. It then
says
> to
> turn crank so timing marker is aligned with pointer on timing chain cover.
> In
> order to do this the crank has to be turned another 1/3 or so turn!!! And
> obviously the valve positions for #6 cyl are now not where they were. In
> addition, the slot which drives the tach shaft is not in the "twenty to
two"
> position. More like 12 o'clock!
>
> Distributor seems to be about 1/6 turn out of rotation.
>
> What is going on here????
>
> Need lots of help here please.
>
> Trying-to-follow-the-manual-but-throughly-confused
> Keith Pennell
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 15:39:55 -0800
Subject: RE: More on Toyota 2000GT
I've seen a few of the Toyota's at car meets over the years, and it's still
a head turner.
BK
----------------------------
At 03:27 PM 2/24/2002, you wrote:
>G'day Bill
>
>Surely the Toyota 2000GT would have to be one of the most drop dead gorgeous
>cars of the 1960s.
>
>The interesting connection between the 2000GT and the 240Z was that both
>were designed by the same man. Dr Albert Goertz who was an Austrian count
>who also designed the BMW V8 convertible (can't recall its model name) of
>the '50s and had a big role in the designing of the 911 Porsche.
>
>Regards
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Sydney, Australia
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
>Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 5:05 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: More on Toyota 2000GT
>
>
>Hardly imagine a Toyota could be so lack of sales success - between 1967
>and 1970, only 337 units of this car was sold. Being the first high speed
>Japanese sports car, the Toyota 2000 GT attracted a lot of attention in the
>late 60s. It broke many domestic speed records and was even featured in
>James Bond's film "You only live twice". Promotion effort was in no doubt,
>but why didn't it sold well ?
>
> Looking at its specifications, you will be amazed how radical it was.
>The chassis was backbone type, covered with a body made of aluminium panels
>carefully assembled in Yamaha's factory. A twin-cam straight six, also by
>Yamaha, provided 150 horsepower through a standard 5-speed gearbox. All
>wheels were suspended by the perfect double wishbones, and, under braking,
>disc brakes provided strong stopping power. Like Ferrari's 250GTO, the
>engine sat rather back behind the front axle while the 2 seats rested just
>in front of the rear wheels, this created a perfect 48 / 52 weight
>distribution between front and rear axle. In addition to the slippery body,
>one can imagine how serious Toyota wanted to demonstrate its real ability.
>
> Perhaps it was too radical, production cost must be extreme. Export
>seemed to be impossible (in the 60s, who
> would buy a JAPANESE car for so much money?), while the domestic
>people were not yet rich enough. 2000
> GT died away silently in 1970. One car dies, one car rises. In 1969,
>Datsun 240Z finally succeeded in overseas
> market and established reputation for Japanese sports cars.
>------------
>At 07:49 AM 2/24/2002, you wrote:
> >I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called Live and Let Die. took
> >place in Japan and featured an interesting car. Looked like a cobra from
>the
> >front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire. Had a slightly curved
> >windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100). Had a Healey swag line
> >and front fender flash.
> >
> >Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
> >
> >No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
> >Carl A. Rubino
> >ruvino@recorder.ca
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 15:46:02 -0800
Subject: Re: point gap
> Plugs should be .024 to .026. Contact breaker gap should be .014 to .016
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 6:19 PM
> Subject: point gap
>
>
> > can anyone help me with th epoint gap on a MKI3000?
> > I can't find my shop manual and I can't remmember if its .16 or 19 or ??
> > Thanks,'
> > I'm trying to get my car out of the garage before dark and or rain.
> > Ira
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:49:11 EST
Subject: Re: More on Toyota 2000GT
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:10:35 +0000
Subject: Re: point gap
Man from Glad! Man from Glad!
The point gap is .016!" Rememer also, no grease/film on feeler gauge,
clean points with cloth after gaping, make sure rubbing block is square
on top of cam lobe, insulate points from base plate with fabric washer.
Healey owners with original points are real men! To heck with Petronix
ignition systems! You go boy!
Rich
BT7
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:04:24 EST
Subject: MG Magnette Interior
Anyone have any suggestions for vendors?
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From bob anderson <bobanderson at archerserve.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:06:51 -0700
Subject: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:42:38 EST
Subject: Texas Healey Round Up
The cut off date on the block of rooms at Tanglewood Resort is March 1, 2002.
After March 1 you may not be able to get a room at Tanglewood. You can get
resort and registration information at club web site. <<A
HREF="www.ntahc.org">ntahc.org</A>>
You all come down and have some Texas fun with us.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 16:50:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Both Dennis Welch and Cape International provide race
and road/rally cams for BJ8s. I believe SC Parts
sells them too. I can't speak for SC Parts, but I
have heard good things both about the Dennis Welch
Cams and Cape International. The road rally cams,
with no other mods, add about 10-20 hp... with
lightened flywheel, roller rockers, ported head &
intake manifolds... I think you can squeeze another 20
hp if you're lucky. For more info see:
www.bighealey.co.uk & www.cape-international.com .
If you really want to go nuts, you can get DMD's
roller cam/roller rocker/lifter & race head set up
(out of australia)...and I think they even have a 4
liter healey engine in the works... but all of this
stuff is a little beyond original and is really suited
for racing rather than road driving.
http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/
Happy Healeying -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bob anderson <bobanderson@archerserve.com> wrote:
> All,
> If you have some insight/experience in the
> specifications, availability,
> and performance of alternative camshafts for the
> 3000 BJ8, I would be
> delighted to hear from you.
> Also my 64 BJ8 has two complete (exchangeable)
> drivelines; original and
> Chevrolet V8 4-speed. If you would like information
> on the Chevy
> installation I would be glad to oblige (having done
> it I much prefer the
> original).
> bob anderson, Colorado Springs, CO, USA
> HBJ8L27069
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
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From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:02:31 EST
Subject: Re: CA Gas
I understand that Union stations still have the 92 octane. However, I have
not checked lately as their prices are quite a bit higher for gas.
Bob Humphreys
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:28:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Upgrading radiators for a 3000 .
The condensed radiator core is very helpful - I have
one on my BJ8 in Hong Kong and it works quite well in
the tropical heat - it's called an "Excel" core and I
had it installed in California.
Probably more important, however, (if you can get it
in Germany) is to get a Robert Shaw balanced sleeve
thermostat. I cannot begin to tell you how this
little guy literally transformed the speed to heat up
& then follow on cooling efficiency of my BJ8 - it
made a MUCH bigger difference than any radiator or
radiator fan set up!!
The thermostat does many things, but its cooling
efficiency works mainly by preventing hot water from
recirculating back into the engine block - which
standard poppet thermostats don't prevent. I've heard
estimates where up to 20% of the hot water in a healey
never makes it into the radiator.
If you do some searching around on the internet you
can find it.... here's one supplier (who sells the
thermostat slightly modified):
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/thermostats.htm
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- njones@amadeus.net wrote:
> After a long break from the list ..I'm
> back..Greetings ...and have a
> question
>
> I am thinking about rebuilding my original 3000
> radiator..now 40 years old
> with an modern upgraded condensed core.
> This is because I have an Ali head and a newly
> rebuilt engine that is
> pumping out about 30-40 bhp more than original..more
> power ..more heat..
> Although not overheating now, steady at the 188-190F
> mark ..I think it
> would be prudent to carry this out.
> I intend using the top nad bottom tanks as original.
>
> Are there any things I should consider before
> handing over my radiator for
> its rebuild?
>
> thx in advance Nick Jones,near the Alps,Germany
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:59:08 EST
Subject: Re: car wash
Buy a pack of old fashion, all cotton baby diapers, (without baby attached)
they won't scratch, are ruggedly built and easy to wash.
For drying Chamois are premium, but diapers are a good runner up.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:05:34 EST
Subject: Trafficators
In order to rework the steering wheel, I took the trafficator out, took it
apart and cleaned all contact surfaces and interior parts, and reassembled.
After repairing the wheel, and after reassembly, the trafficator rotates with
the wheel.
At what point in the long shafting of the wire run down the steering shaft is
the Trafficator held in position. What did I reassemble incorrectly, or not
tighten?
This is an adjustable wheel BJ8 .
Thanks
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:57:23 +0000
Subject: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
Rich
BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:41:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Trafficators
You forgot to tighten the brass nut at the front end
of the steering column....
Note, for your future reference, you do not need to
ever loosen this brass nut to remove the trafficator
in a BJ8 (or any other healey with an adjustable
steering column)... this nut does not hold the
trafficator in place -> it only holds the stator tube
in place.
By the way, if your brass nut has been loose this
long, you probably need to refill the steering box
with oil - much of it may have drained out.
Best Regards & Happy Healeying...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- N0040@aol.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> In order to rework the steering wheel, I took the
> trafficator out, took it
> apart and cleaned all contact surfaces and interior
> parts, and reassembled.
> After repairing the wheel, and after reassembly, the
> trafficator rotates with
> the wheel.
>
> At what point in the long shafting of the wire run
> down the steering shaft is
> the Trafficator held in position. What did I
> reassemble incorrectly, or not
> tighten?
>
> This is an adjustable wheel BJ8 .
>
> Thanks
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:41:59 -0800
Subject: Re: car wash
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: car wash
> Herman,
>
> Buy a pack of old fashion, all cotton baby diapers, (without baby
attached)
> they won't scratch, are ruggedly built and easy to wash.
>
> For drying Chamois are premium, but diapers are a good runner up.
>
> Regards,
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 18:52:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Live and Let Die?
Just to clarify, the movie you are talking about is
"You Only Live Twice." "Live and Let Die" took place
in Louisiana, not Japan... although I can appreciate
that the two cultures & people are easily confused...
I do have to say Sheriff J.W. Pepper is arguably the
best sidekick to Bond, ever... esp. when getting all
excited about his "brother" driving the Sheriff's
chase boat after Bond!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino@recorder.ca> wrote:
> I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called
> Live and Let Die. took
> place in Japan and featured an interesting car.
> Looked like a cobra from the
> front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire.
> Had a slightly curved
> windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100).
> Had a Healey swag line
> and front fender flash.
>
> Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a
> one off?
>
> No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either
> shaken or stirred.
> Carl A. Rubino
> ruvino@recorder.ca
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:05:09 -0800
Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
I had a 160 deg RobertShaw sleeved thermostat and took it out.
On a cool day the engine would run at 160 and on a warm one it
would run 180-190 deg or more. I feel with that range it's hard to get
the mixture set correctly; it needs to be set a little richer at 160 than it
does at 180, and 180-190 seems to be the "natural" running temp for a
Healey engine. Using a 180 deg thermostat sets the floor of the range.
You don't want an engine running too cool anyway, you won't get
the oil hot enough to evaporate the liquid contaminants (water and
gas).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Going to look for a Robert Shaw sleeve thermostat after reading the
> glowing post about it and need to specify the temperature and my
> inclination is to go with a 160 since I rarely use the heater. Just
> wondering if there is any compelling reason to get the 180 or 195.
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
> BT7
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:38:23 -0800
Subject: no go
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 23:01:55 EST
Subject: Re: no go
<< couldn't get it to fire off. Reset the point gap. but I guess I need to
pull
and clean the plugs, and replace the points with a fresh set. Maybe the sun
gods will look kindly on we Pacific Northwesterners and shine on us again over
the weekend.
Thanks again to all who reminded me its .14 + on the setting.
Ira >>
These cars will fire in a very wide range of settings. Specially when you
consider the life cycle of a set of points (they change shape almost daily).
I would suggest replacing the condenser.
Rick
San Diego
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:10:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
In general you don't want to run a 160 unless you are
operating in a very hot climate (I'm using one in Hong
Kong, very hot & humid).
The car should run about 180-190 all the time.
Running an engine a little cold will wear it out a
little faster... at least that's what everyone says,
don't know if its a wive's tale or not.
The good thing about the robert shaw thermostats is
they improve cooling efficiency significantly, and
also (believe it or not) make the car warm up much
faster. This is exactly what you want from a
thermostat. With improved cooling efficiency you
should be safe with a 180... 190 is only really good
in cold climates.
cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com> wrote:
> Going to look for a Robert Shaw sleeve thermostat
> after reading the
> glowing post about it and need to specify the
> temperature and my
> inclination is to go with a 160 since I rarely use
> the heater. Just
> wondering if there is any compelling reason to get
> the 180 or 195.
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
> BT7
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:25:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: no go
The car should work if fuel and ignition is working...
even if settings are all off. Always test the
following:
1) Gas? disconnect line to carb & turn on ignition -
do you have gas flow? if so good. - if no gas, check
fuel pump first then fuel filter, then fuel line.
Likely culprits: fuel pump (do you hear it clicking?).
2) Ignition? Pull a plug wire and stick a screw driver
in the lead and hold it close to ground & turn over
engine - do you get a spark? If so good. If no spark
check your points, condensor, coil, wire leads (you
should have metal core wires, not silicon). If you
still can't find the cause you may have a cracked
distributor cap or a poorly grounded engine. Likely
culprits: condensor first, bad wires second, coil
third, bad ground fourth, cracked cap fifth - also
make sure your points aren't grounded.
2a) another cause of no spark is if your trunk master
switch is bad. remove the black and white lead from
the coil which goes to the battery master switch and
try again - if you get a spark and the car starts, you
need to get a new battery master switch in the trunk.
3) If that's all good, open the float bowls and see if
there's gas in there. If there isn't that means your
float bowl jets are sticking closed (do you have grose
jets?).
After you go through these steps... if it still
doesn't work... email us back and tell us what's
working and what's not!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/24/02 20:42:42,
> eyera3@attbi.com writes:
>
> << couldn't get it to fire off. Reset the point gap.
> but I guess I need to
> pull
> and clean the plugs, and replace the points with a
> fresh set. Maybe the sun
> gods will look kindly on we Pacific Northwesterners
> and shine on us again over
> the weekend.
> Thanks again to all who reminded me its .14 + on the
> setting.
> Ira >>
>
> These cars will fire in a very wide range of
> settings. Specially when you
> consider the life cycle of a set of points (they
> change shape almost daily).
>
> I would suggest replacing the condenser.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:46:37 -0800
Subject: Car sightings (No Healey)
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:53:25 -0800
Subject: no go redux
I put Stabil in the gas after I filled it up in November. I have run it once
since then, needed starting fluid then to get it to light off, that trick did
not work this time.
Ira
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:54:33 -0800
Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
> Rich -
>
> In general you don't want to run a 160 unless you are
> operating in a very hot climate (I'm using one in Hong
> Kong, very hot & humid).
>
> The car should run about 180-190 all the time.
> Running an engine a little cold will wear it out a
> little faster... at least that's what everyone says,
> don't know if its a wive's tale or not.
>
> The good thing about the robert shaw thermostats is
> they improve cooling efficiency significantly, and
> also (believe it or not) make the car warm up much
> faster. This is exactly what you want from a
> thermostat. With improved cooling efficiency you
> should be safe with a 180... 190 is only really good
> in cold climates.
>
> cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
> --- Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com> wrote:
> > Going to look for a Robert Shaw sleeve thermostat
> > after reading the
> > glowing post about it and need to specify the
> > temperature and my
> > inclination is to go with a 160 since I rarely use
> > the heater. Just
> > wondering if there is any compelling reason to get
> > the 180 or 195.
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rich
> > BT7
> Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:50:33 -0800
Subject: Retorque question
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:00:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
I don't have the part number on the robert shaw.
Robert shaw is the largest supplier of car themostats
in the states... so your local parts supply store
should be able to get them. Be sure to specify you
want the "balanced sleeve" thermostat, as robert shaw
also makes standard reverse poppet themostats too.
Just so you know what one looks like:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/thermostats.htm
It should cost you around 8 bucks or so. One thing -
your head should not be crudded up - the balanced
sleeve thermostat won't work if it doesn't have free
travel up and down.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- i erbs <eyera3@attbi.com> wrote:
> What's th epart number on ther Shaw stat? I agree
> 180 is the right temp for
> most climates.
> Ira
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>;
> "Healey List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 8:10 PM
> Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
>
>
> > Rich -
> >
> > In general you don't want to run a 160 unless you
> are
> > operating in a very hot climate (I'm using one in
> Hong
> > Kong, very hot & humid).
> >
> > The car should run about 180-190 all the time.
> > Running an engine a little cold will wear it out a
> > little faster... at least that's what everyone
> says,
> > don't know if its a wive's tale or not.
> >
> > The good thing about the robert shaw thermostats
> is
> > they improve cooling efficiency significantly, and
> > also (believe it or not) make the car warm up much
> > faster. This is exactly what you want from a
> > thermostat. With improved cooling efficiency you
> > should be safe with a 180... 190 is only really
> good
> > in cold climates.
> >
> > cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> >
> > --- Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
> wrote:
> > > Going to look for a Robert Shaw sleeve
> thermostat
> > > after reading the
> > > glowing post about it and need to specify the
> > > temperature and my
> > > inclination is to go with a 160 since I rarely
> use
> > > the heater. Just
> > > wondering if there is any compelling reason to
> get
> > > the 180 or 195.
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Rich
> > > BT7
> > Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 00:02:22 EST
Subject: Re: Trafficators
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:06:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: no go redux - expansion plug?
The last time you drove it, did you have a pre-fire
into the intake manifold?
Check the intake manifold expansion plug - it's on the
rear of the intake manifold facing the firewall. If
you can feel a big round hole in the back end of the
intake manifold (facing the firewall) with your hands,
then that's why it won't start (or a poorly seated
expansion plug may cause this problem too). You'll
have to replace the expansion plug.
Hope that works!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- i erbs <eyera3@attbi.com> wrote:
> got fuel, new pump, cleaned fuel filte,r pumped fuel
> into bottle out of hose.
> knocked on the float chambers, got spark out of the
> cables, points were
> closed, but not pitted, so I regaped them. Clean
> low tension leads on coil.
> That's why I thought I should check/clean the plugs
> abd put in a fresh set of
> points, and I could throw in a condensor at the same
> time.
> So Have I missed anything?
>
> I put Stabil in the gas after I filled it up in
> November. I have run it once
> since then, needed starting fluid then to get it to
> light off, that trick did
> not work this time.
> Ira
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:10:12 -0800
Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
I took a chance and odered the modified thermostat from Stewart
(part number 301). I'll know when it arrives if it'll work.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> What's th epart number on ther Shaw stat? I agree 180 is the right temp for
> most climates.
> Ira
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:11:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: no go redux - another thing
Another good thing to do is to take off the float
chamber tops (rather than just tapping them) and
inspect the chambers physically for gas. If a nice
hefty piece of crud got into the float jets, no amount
of tapping or banging will get it loose - you gotta
take it off and fix it by hand.
ALan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- i erbs <eyera3@attbi.com> wrote:
> got fuel, new pump, cleaned fuel filte,r pumped fuel
> into bottle out of hose.
> knocked on the float chambers, got spark out of the
> cables, points were
> closed, but not pitted, so I regaped them. Clean
> low tension leads on coil.
> That's why I thought I should check/clean the plugs
> abd put in a fresh set of
> points, and I could throw in a condensor at the same
> time.
> So Have I missed anything?
>
> I put Stabil in the gas after I filled it up in
> November. I have run it once
> since then, needed starting fluid then to get it to
> light off, that trick did
> not work this time.
> Ira
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:13:27 -0800
Subject: Re: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
According to the Stewart site they are modifying the RobertShaw
product. Haven't seen a stock RobertShaw thermostat with the
sleeve (of course, that doesn't mean they don't exist :)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Ira -
>
> I don't have the part number on the robert shaw.
> Robert shaw is the largest supplier of car themostats
> in the states... so your local parts supply store
> should be able to get them. Be sure to specify you
> want the "balanced sleeve" thermostat, as robert shaw
> also makes standard reverse poppet themostats too.
> Just so you know what one looks like:
>
> http://www.stewartcomponents.com/thermostats.htm
>
> It should cost you around 8 bucks or so. One thing -
> your head should not be crudded up - the balanced
> sleeve thermostat won't work if it doesn't have free
> travel up and down.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:39:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Trafficators
----- Original Message -----
From: <N0040@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: Trafficators
> Listers,
>
> In order to rework the steering wheel, I took the trafficator out, took it
> apart and cleaned all contact surfaces and interior parts, and
reassembled.
> After repairing the wheel, and after reassembly, the trafficator rotates
with
> the wheel.
>
> At what point in the long shafting of the wire run down the steering shaft
is
> the Trafficator held in position. What did I reassemble incorrectly, or
not
> tighten?
>
> This is an adjustable wheel BJ8 .
>
> Thanks
> Bob - BJ8
> Milford, MI
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:52:19 -0800
Subject: Re: no go redux
----- Original Message -----
From: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 8:53 PM
Subject: no go redux
> got fuel, new pump, cleaned fuel filte,r pumped fuel into bottle out of
hose.
> knocked on the float chambers, got spark out of the cables, points were
> closed, but not pitted, so I regaped them. Clean low tension leads on
coil.
> That's why I thought I should check/clean the plugs abd put in a fresh set
of
> points, and I could throw in a condensor at the same time.
> So Have I missed anything?
>
> I put Stabil in the gas after I filled it up in November. I have run it
once
> since then, needed starting fluid then to get it to light off, that trick
did
> not work this time.
> Ira
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:13:56 -0800
Subject: Re: More on Toyota 2000GT
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 07:50:57 EST
Subject: Re: "Safety Fast" Issues Sought
There was a '64 issue at the Chicago swap meet this weekend, but at $25 I
passed!
John.
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From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:25:23 -0500
Subject: Re: "Safety Fast" Issues Sought
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:16:56 -0500
Subject: Re: no go redux
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: no go redux
> Have you checked the rotor. Is it cracked and arcing to the dist shaft,
you
> sometimes will still get some spark from a lead depending how close it is
to
> a ground. There were problems a while back with brand new ones failing
very
> quickly....Neil
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 8:53 PM
> Subject: no go redux
>
>
> > got fuel, new pump, cleaned fuel filte,r pumped fuel into bottle out of
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:46:27 +0000
Subject: Re: no go redux
My car came with a 'new' (= cheap far-Eastern?) arm, and the early
replacements were the same (but from different sources). I have now
fitted a genuine Lucas part, and my problems (so far) have gone away.
'Prince of Darkness' is a bit of an overstatement!!
Having now tempted fate, I expect my Lucas arm to give up the ghost on
the next outing, but at least I have another spare!
In message <004b01c1bdfe$b3323740$5ae05043@computer>, Healeyolic
<healey6@optonline.net> writes
>I've had this problem twice and each time it has been a cracked rotor. I
>always carry a couple with me as well as points and condensors. The first
>time I had a problem like this I was on a freeway in Las Vegas and the
>emergency services guy was able to fix the rotor with crazy glue and rubber
>bands enough so that I could drive 4 miles home. That's why I carry them in
>my emergency kit.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 12:52 AM
>Subject: Re: no go redux
>
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:48:24 -0500
Subject: you only live twice
what kind of car was the white roadster?
Carroll
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From "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg at vtcomposites.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:09:29 -0500
Subject: RE: no go redux
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 8:46 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: no go redux
I had three rotor arms go in 300 miles. Nothing to see, just some
conductivity measured to earth and a faint smell of burning plastic from
the underside of the rotor. The arms seemed to go from OK to 'no go' in
the space of less than a mile or so - once they go, they go.
My car came with a 'new' (= cheap far-Eastern?) arm, and the early
replacements were the same (but from different sources). I have now
fitted a genuine Lucas part, and my problems (so far) have gone away.
'Prince of Darkness' is a bit of an overstatement!!
Having now tempted fate, I expect my Lucas arm to give up the ghost on
the next outing, but at least I have another spare!
In message <004b01c1bdfe$b3323740$5ae05043@computer>, Healeyolic
<healey6@optonline.net> writes
>I've had this problem twice and each time it has been a cracked rotor. I
>always carry a couple with me as well as points and condensors. The first
>time I had a problem like this I was on a freeway in Las Vegas and the
>emergency services guy was able to fix the rotor with crazy glue and rubber
>bands enough so that I could drive 4 miles home. That's why I carry them in
>my emergency kit.
>
>John Sims, BN6
>Aberdeen, NJ
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 12:52 AM
>Subject: Re: no go redux
>
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:07:21 -0500
Subject: Re:Virus question
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:01:34 -0800
Subject: Re: More on Toyota 2000GT
http://www.bmwworld.com/models/vintage/507.htm
and here's a link I found on Larry's site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/austinnissan.html
-------------------
At 10:13 PM 2/24/2002, you wrote:
>I had heard at one time that Albrecht Goertz designed the show-car prototype
>of the Datsun 240z as well as the BMW 507. It would be interesting if he
>also designed the Toyota 2000GT. Could there be any confusion here?
>--
>Steve Gerow
>Pasadena CA
>59 BN6
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:07:47 +0000
Subject: Re: no go redux
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> Hi Ira-
>
> If you're getting spark at the plugs, if you squirt in starter fluid,
> if you have the choke on, if you have done nothing to the timing, if
> your battery is strong, it should fire up! Absolutely no reason not
> to!
>
> Keep us informed,
>
> Rich
> BT7
>
> i erbs wrote:
> >
> > got fuel, new pump, cleaned fuel filte,r pumped fuel into bottle out of
>hose.
> > knocked on the float chambers, got spark out of the cables, points were
> > closed, but not pitted, so I regaped them. Clean low tension leads on coil.
> > That's why I thought I should check/clean the plugs abd put in a fresh set
>of
> > points, and I could throw in a condensor at the same time.
> > So Have I missed anything?
> >
> > I put Stabil in the gas after I filled it up in November. I have run it once
> > since then, needed starting fluid then to get it to light off, that trick
>did
> > not work this time.
> > Ira
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:11:10 +0000
Subject: Re: no go redux - another thing
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
> Ira -
>
> Another good thing to do is to take off the float
> chamber tops (rather than just tapping them) and
> inspect the chambers physically for gas. If a nice
> hefty piece of crud got into the float jets, no amount
> of tapping or banging will get it loose - you gotta
> take it off and fix it by hand.
>
> ALan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- i erbs <eyera3@attbi.com> wrote:
> > got fuel, new pump, cleaned fuel filte,r pumped fuel
> > into bottle out of hose.
> > knocked on the float chambers, got spark out of the
> > cables, points were
> > closed, but not pitted, so I regaped them. Clean
> > low tension leads on coil.
> > That's why I thought I should check/clean the plugs
> > abd put in a fresh set of
> > points, and I could throw in a condensor at the same
> > time.
> > So Have I missed anything?
> >
> > I put Stabil in the gas after I filled it up in
> > November. I have run it once
> > since then, needed starting fluid then to get it to
> > light off, that trick did
> > not work this time.
> > Ira
> Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:18:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Question Re Raising Engine in the car
If you just want to replace the seal, you don't need
to remove the cover. It is pressed in from the front.
I will tell you that once I took a good look inside
and saw all the sludge, it wasn't too long until
everything thing came out....
Dean
BN7 (385 Miles on new engine and going strong!)
> Question--is it possible to raise the engine far
> enough at the front to
> remove the harmonic balancer & crankshaft pulley
> with the engine in the car
>
> Is this possible without undoing the driveshaft and
> undoing the rear trans
> mount? I have the Smitty Toyota 5-speed and the rear
> mount is a block of
> rubber.
> --
> Steve Gerow
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:32:29 -0500
Subject: Re:"Lost" Plates
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:49:25 -0800
Subject: Re: no go redux
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg@vtcomposites.com>
To: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: no go redux
> I have had the same frustrating problem with a bad rotor arm that
developed
> an intermittent path to ground. It took almost a week and a few short
tows
> to figure it out. Would a grounding rotor have the same effect on the
> Petronix ignition folks?
>
> Bill
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Alan F Cross
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 8:46 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: no go redux
>
> I had three rotor arms go in 300 miles. Nothing to see, just some
> conductivity measured to earth and a faint smell of burning plastic from
> the underside of the rotor. The arms seemed to go from OK to 'no go' in
> the space of less than a mile or so - once they go, they go.
>
> My car came with a 'new' (= cheap far-Eastern?) arm, and the early
> replacements were the same (but from different sources). I have now
> fitted a genuine Lucas part, and my problems (so far) have gone away.
>
> 'Prince of Darkness' is a bit of an overstatement!!
>
> Having now tempted fate, I expect my Lucas arm to give up the ghost on
> the next outing, but at least I have another spare!
>
> In message <004b01c1bdfe$b3323740$5ae05043@computer>, Healeyolic
> <healey6@optonline.net> writes
> >I've had this problem twice and each time it has been a cracked rotor. I
> >always carry a couple with me as well as points and condensors. The first
> >time I had a problem like this I was on a freeway in Las Vegas and the
> >emergency services guy was able to fix the rotor with crazy glue and
rubber
> >bands enough so that I could drive 4 miles home. That's why I carry them
in
> >my emergency kit.
> >
> >John Sims, BN6
> >Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg@telus.net>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 12:52 AM
> >Subject: Re: no go redux
> >
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 12:23:34 -0800
Subject: mounts
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:58:31 -0800
Subject: Loc Tite
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 15:30:03 -0600
Subject: Moss Interior Kits
Mark
Nashville
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:39:29 -0800
Subject: mounts
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 14:03:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: "Safety Fast" Issues Sought
<< Reid, don't you have every one of these anyway?!
Every time I try to bid on any on Ebay, you win them,
even the ones in the UK lately, I think? >>
Let me clue you in to one if the "Insider Secrets"
(TM) of eBay... now this is just between you and me...
if you want to win items at auction on eBay, BID
HIGHER than the other bidders! Shhh... not a word to
anyone else now. Obviously we would not want Insider
Secrets (TM) like this to get into general
circulation. :-)
<< I just want one or two. >>
Funny you should mention it, I have some duplicates.
Contact me off list if interested.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Rob Molyneux <rwmolyneux at shaw.ca>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:14:06 -0600
Subject: 100 Cluster Gear
Does anyone have a good cluster gear for a 100, 3 speed transmission? If so,
please respond to me and I will send it on.
Thanks in advance for any help/replies. I think this list is great, and a
valuable resource to all.
Rob
1960 BT-7
In more boxes than I care to count, but going together.
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From Don Zielke <CaptDon at usa.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:41:22 -0500
Subject: Horn
Don
1960 BT7
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:40:14 -0800
Subject: Healey in Commercial
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 03:53:45 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 07:14:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Healey Blue paint
Does anyone know of a modern day PPG color that is a
good match for Healey Blue? Are there any sources
where I could get a sample that can be scanned? I
have talked to R&R in California, They sell a "secret
blend" Healey blue in Dupont by the gallon. I had
planned to use a single stage for the chassis and
base/clear for the body and don't want to buy a gallon
of each.
I understand that there is no perfect match, and I am
not restoring to concourse level, but I want a color
that looks great.
Thanks in advance
Jim Wood BJ8
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:34:52 -0500
Subject: RE: 160, 180, 195 thermostat
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:46:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey in Commercial
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 12:40 AM
Subject: Healey in Commercial
> Was channel surfing at lunchtime today. As I passed by CNBC, I spotted a
> Healey 3000. Went back and barely caught another glimpse at the end of a
> commercial for Brown and Company. I believe they are stock brokers or
> connected to finances somehow. It would have been during a program called
> 'Closing Bell" so that makes sense.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 22:30:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Horn
If there is no "juice" to the horn, the problem lies
further back and you need to do more investigating.
Check the fuse next.
To trouble shoot the wiring, I've always used a straight
pin to pierce the wire in question and then hook up my
test bulb. One end to ground, the other end has an
aligator clip that attached to the pin.
Hope this helps.
Burt
63 BJ7
> Anyone have a sequence list for the diagnosis of a horn problem.
>
> Don
>
> 1960 BT7
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 22:43:52 -0500
Subject: Hepolite .020
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 22:41:03 +0000
Subject: Camshaft timing, duration, overlap and lift
Rich
BT7
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 05:19:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Camshaft timing, duration, overlap and lift
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 07:03:24 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Rear Wheel Bearings
Well, I took them back to NAPA and ordered from Moss. The Moss bearing
(P/N 021-174) is also SKF (Made in Italy), and it is perfect --- actually
appears to be better quality than the original R&M bearing, LDJ45. The
correct SKF Part Number is 4209ATN9.
With luck, I'll have these in and be able to test my new 3.54 differential
this weekend.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:37:48 -0500
Subject: Engine/dyno update - the long version
This rambling contains a couple of questions as well as recent progress
for HBT7L/18949 .
Update on Healey (62 BT7 ) modified to BJ8 specs engine work--- mounted
engine on dyno which required making special motor mounts, drilled dyno
mount plate for back of engine support, drilled then balancing dyno
coupling plate to accept flywheel dowel pins (amazingly the bolt holes
lined up with an existing set), adapted fuel line, made cooling system
adapter to connect to existing installation , adapted accelerator linkage (
no fire wall for second mount on accelerator rod), fabricated exhaust
conversion from Healey 2 pipes to one large 3-4 inch system mounted in wall.
Now fun begins, pressurize fuel system ..#$% leaks like a ----- ,
remove banjo fittings and sand (sand= flat glass from old side window, fine
sand paper , wd40 , elbow grease) smooth and reassemble ! NO leaks now !!
Add water to cooling system, leak at thermostat housing , carefully
file flat the warped housing - sand and reinstall.refill..OK now.
Crank engine, ignition on , 4-6 rounds and we have LIFE, weak
(rough,loud and farting) but LIFE. Adjust timing (was about 30 degrees out)
, and the carbs not even close , it was a wonder that it started and ran .
Adjusted carbs as close as possible ( sensor in exhaust pipe said gases
were pretty close to what they should be).
Let everything cool down adjusted valves, stopped 2 timing chain cover
oil leaks, removed exhaust adapter and welded joins ( it was only held
together by screws) and added 2 heat sensors as close to manifold as
possible . Changed oil and filter (oil was a special marine-diesel -
synthetic that is designed to coat and trap moisture , the engine will
probably sit for a few months) , I didn't know it took 7.5 liters of oil.
Drained water and added antifreeze to help coat inside of engine and
prevent (slow down) rust.
Restarted engine ( smooth and quiet) checked temperatures in each
exhaust manifold, about 100 degrees F. apart which indicates a
balance/mixture problem. Unable to determine why , but could it be that the
pistons in the carbs seem to have slightly different pressures when lifted
by finger? They also seem to move up at different rates when running.
Horse power and torque tests NOT run as dyno in current configuration
is too big for a 150HP engine ( it requires 300+ to work, or more correctly
not kill/stop dead/over work the engine under test) . I hope to help the
owner of the dyno to complete modifications to the system later this summer
that will allow smaller engines (down to 80HP range ) to be tested.
I have one oil leak left, it is at the base of the distributor above
the oil line. New seal fitted , any ideas how to fix or what to look for
other than get new seal and hope for best ?
Will give dyno test info if and when (when and if) run.
There is a possibility that another Healey owner will be testing a
race version of the Austin Healey engine later this summer. An all out
version... aluminum head & fly wheel, triple webber, race cam, headers plus
more . Will pass on info as I get it.
Body work is still in early stages , new frame, floors, outriggers,
sills ,trunk (boot) floor, suspension transferred, rear inner fenders , A&B
post assembly (you get the picture not much worth salvaging of old rusty
body too many old patches). OH yes there was the proverbial piece of bed
frame in the sill/rocker panel area.
Thanks for reading this long rambling...
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu (all standard trans)
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:37:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Hepolite .020
Good luck.
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from the route in Pueblo, overnighting in Colorado Springs rather than Canon
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:14:24 EST
Subject: Pike's Peak info
Does anyone know what the road up to Pike's Peak is like? All things being
equal is it suitable for our cars? And from there, what about route 24 west
to Buena Vista and then highway 82 thru Aspen either up to I-70 or southwest
thru Hotchkiss via 133--any problems with these roads or the passes in June?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:36:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
Bob Denton
PS. Don't try to emulate an Unser family member on your way up or down. 'tis
risky stuff.
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> My wife Mary and I are travelling to Tahoe with the "Route 50 group". We are
> scheduled to overnight in Dodge City, KS, thence on to Canon City, CO. and
> from there Grand Junction, CO. My wife has family in Colorado Springs, CO.,
> just a bit north and short of Canon City and we were considering diverting
> from the route in Pueblo, overnighting in Colorado Springs rather than Canon
> City, heading up to and climbing Pike's Peak the next morning and catching up
> with the group in Grand Junction.
>
> Does anyone know what the road up to Pike's Peak is like? All things being
> equal is it suitable for our cars? And from there, what about route 24 west
> to Buena Vista and then highway 82 thru Aspen either up to I-70 or southwest
> thru Hotchkiss via 133--any problems with these roads or the passes in June?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:14:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
>
> Does anyone know what the road up to Pike's Peak is like?
Last time I was up there the road was pretty rough after the pavement ended.
Nice road but tough on cars. Maybe someone has been up there more recently.
> And from there, what about route 24 west to Buena Vista and then highway 82
> thru Aspen either up to I-70 or southwest thru Hotchkiss via 133--any problems
> with these roads or the passes in June?
>
Both great routes and there are no problems w/ the roads. The passes, however,
are not exactly predictable in June. The chances are being snowed in (or out)
are less in June than April or May but you need to keep in mind that snow can
happen in June in the mountains and in large quantities! Storms are more likely
in the afternoons.
If you want to ride to 14,264', try Mt. Evans. If you get off I-70 in Idaho
Springs, CO., (exit 240) follow the signs to Mt. Evans. It's the highest PAVED
road in the US, takes a while to go 23 miles uphill and is well worth the trip.
Halfway up the hill is Echo Lake and that is worth the trip by itself. The rest
of the trip up is simply spectacular!! The ol' BJ8 was wheezing when we got
there but it made it. The cost is a lot less than Pikes Peak and not nearly as
crowded. After you get down, you need to go to Beau Jo's Pizza in Idaho
Springs. Don't make the mistake of ordering appetizers--way too much pizza for
that.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:21:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
>
> Does anyone know what the road up to Pike's Peak is
> like? All things being
> equal is it suitable for our cars? >
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:42:52 -0600
Subject: RE: Hepolite .020
Hi Alain, I presume these are for a 3 liter engine. If, perhaps they're for
a 2.6 liter engine, I have an alternative to the Hepolites. They are 0.045"
Jahns domed. Don't know the compression ratio. Just let me know if you
want more information.
Jack Brashear
-----Original Message-----
From: Alain Giguhre [mailto:agig@sympatico.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 9:44 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hepolite .020
I am looking for a set of 6 Hepolyte (lite) pistons 0.20 oversize.
Anybody have that and how much?
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:08:33 EST
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
Glen Cove to Peak
Glen Cove elev. 11490'
To Peak 6.5 miles
Elev gain 2600' aprox
Avg Grade 10%
Peak 14000' aprox
Don
NTAHC
Healey Parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:53:46 EST
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
<< Beau Jo's Pizza in Idaho Springs. >>The Mountain Pie! Served with Honey
for the crust!
Richard
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From "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew at hickeycontractors.co.nz>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 08:06:38 +1300
Subject: Brake Booster
Alternatively I have seen mentioned on the list a PBR booster (made in
Asutralia), which model is recommended?
All ideas and suggestions appreciated
Andrew Shrimpton
Rotorua
NZ
BT7
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:57:40 -0800
Subject: door seal
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:14:28 -0800
Subject: rust
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:35:53 -0600
Subject: Re: rust
> Has anybody heard of pro 15 rust blocker or anything that stop rust Thanks
>Stephen
>
POR 15? Yes, I've used it w/ good success. The best bet is to clean away as
much rust
as you can before applying the product. Of course, it will not fill holes or
strengthen
parts that are just about "through" w/ rust. Make sure you follow all the
instructions
on the container.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:50:23 EST
Subject: Pike's Peak
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:07:47 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Paint
I'm looking for a good quality brush-on paint to cover my rather dingy
looking exhaust manifolds in the engine compartment. I have looked in the
archives and it only mentions the black bbq paint for the piping under the
car and in the back.
I have heard there is a blue/silver high temp paint that some use that has
tiny stainless steel chips in it. What would be appropriate for the Healey
and what prep work would be required on the typical rough and rusty
manifold? What exact color were these exhaust manifolds when they left the
factory? Thanks in advance.....
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:16:57 -0800
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Paint
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:33:28 -0800
Subject: rust again
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:26:42 -0800
Subject: rust again
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From deemi at juno.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:33:58 -0500
Subject: Where is the number on the wiper motor?
I cannot find the number on the lucas wiper motor I have.
It may fit a healey as I was collecting bits for these, but am hoping its
the same type as my Morgan.
I found the word lucas, patented, and terminal nos 1 2 3
at least the model should be on it correct?
Thanks for any clues.
Bob Bowie in Maine
63 Morgan SS
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:54:33 -0800
Subject: door seal
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:59:36 EST
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland 2002
www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm
The only stipulation is that you arrive driving a British Car--make and year
unimportant.
Please help us make this event a success by spreading the word to your
friends, fellow-clubmembers, etc.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 Austin-Healey 100 LeMans
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:21:39 +0000
Subject: New Healey Owner
I've been lurking here -- on and off -- for over two
years. I have really learned a lot while I have been
searching for a Healey of my own. I owned a Mini and a
Jensen-Healey when I lived in England during the
early '80s but I always wanted a 100. So, I have
recently purchased a '55 BN1. As I live in New
Hampshire, I have only been able to drive it briefly
but I've already encountered my first speed bump
(ouch!), my first electrical problem (left-rear turn
signal/brake light not working due to a loose
connection), and my first (and I'm sure not last)
mechanical failure (Dynamo pulley broke apart and
slipped the fan belt. New pulley and armature
required). All of this in the first fifty miles! This
is going to be FUN!
All in all though, the car is really in nice condition
but I am starting to notice a few things that I didn't
when I first bought it (like the fact that it seems to
have had a BN4 donor car during it's restoration, since
the horn button says "100/6", the parcel shelf has a
hole for a washer bottle, it has a 4-speed side-shift,
etc.)
At any rate, I have quite a list of questions and I
thought it proper to introduce myself before bombing
the list with them. I will now commence bombing...
Regards,
Michael Williams
New (to me) 1955 BN1
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From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: Brashear, Jack, N
To: 'Alain Giguhre'; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:39:52 -0000
Subject: Re: New Healey Owner
Kindest regards
Tom - AH 3000 BJ8 MkIII
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
To: "Healey List" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 10:21 PM
Subject: New Healey Owner
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I've been lurking here -- on and off -- for over two
> years. I have really learned a lot while I have been
> searching for a Healey of my own. I owned a Mini and a
> Jensen-Healey when I lived in England during the
> early '80s but I always wanted a 100. So, I have
> recently purchased a '55 BN1. As I live in New
> Hampshire, I have only been able to drive it briefly
> but I've already encountered my first speed bump
> (ouch!), my first electrical problem (left-rear turn
> signal/brake light not working due to a loose
> connection), and my first (and I'm sure not last)
> mechanical failure (Dynamo pulley broke apart and
> slipped the fan belt. New pulley and armature
> required). All of this in the first fifty miles! This
> is going to be FUN!
>
> All in all though, the car is really in nice condition
> but I am starting to notice a few things that I didn't
> when I first bought it (like the fact that it seems to
> have had a BN4 donor car during it's restoration, since
> the horn button says "100/6", the parcel shelf has a
> hole for a washer bottle, it has a 4-speed side-shift,
> etc.)
>
> At any rate, I have quite a list of questions and I
> thought it proper to introduce myself before bombing
> the list with them. I will now commence bombing...
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Williams
> New (to me) 1955 BN1
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:55:03 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Paint
> Gang,
>
> I'm looking for a good quality brush-on paint to cover my rather dingy
> looking exhaust manifolds in the engine compartment. I have looked in the
> archives and it only mentions the black bbq paint for the piping under the
> car and in the back.
> I have heard there is a blue/silver high temp paint that some use that has
> tiny stainless steel chips in it. What would be appropriate for the Healey
> and what prep work would be required on the typical rough and rusty
> manifold? What exact color were these exhaust manifolds when they left the
> factory? Thanks in advance.....
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:23:46 -0500
Subject: driving lights
Bill Pollock
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:56:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Paint
> From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> Reply-To: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
> Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:07:47 -0500
> To: Healeyphiles <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Exhaust Manifold Paint
>
> Gang,
>
> I'm looking for a good quality brush-on paint to cover my rather dingy
> looking exhaust manifolds
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:59:01 EST
Subject: Re: Hepolite .020
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:01:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Brake Booster
You can get the PBR unit from the Healey Factory in
Melbourne. I have one on my car and it's pretty
nice... although it still is a little on the stiff
side but the ideal set up for agressive driving.
Either way it'll transform the braking on your BT7.
Just remember that you also have to change your master
cylinder to the BJ7/BJ8 master in the process,
otherwise your brakes will become very spongy after
you put on your booster....
Good luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Andrew Shrimpton <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>
wrote:
> I have a BT7 to which I would like to fit a brake
> booster. Can anyone
> suggest a unit which will work well, with reasonable
> feel - it has
> been suggested a Hillman Hunter one.
>
> Alternatively I have seen mentioned on the list a
> PBR booster (made in
> Asutralia), which model is recommended?
>
> All ideas and suggestions appreciated
>
> Andrew Shrimpton
> Rotorua
> NZ
> BT7
Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:05:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: door seal - good question RE end caps
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Guy Guarino <guymark.studios@snet.net> wrote:
> I have a 1963 BJ7. I am in the process of putting
> door seals, part #249-609.
> Is there any easy trick to this or is it just a
> matter of pulling apart the
> clips, slipping over the ridge and recrimping. Also
> the end caps look as if
> they can very easily pop off. Should these be clued
> on. Any suggestions would
> greatly be appreciated.
> Guy G.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:12:58 -0500
Subject: Manuals
No interest in eBay other than to let you know books are out there if you are
interested.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton at hotmail.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:04:50 -0500
Subject: re: Pikes Peak
All part of our 6000 mile Conclave '97 trip from Lexington, North Carolina to
Park City, Utah & back in the Silver Bullet ('67 BJ8).
Gary Brierton (The Rally god)
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:08:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Paint
I missed this thread. The fumes have to be terrible till it cures. How
long did that take? And what kind of a long term coating is graphite?
Mark
> At the suggestion of someone on this list, I tried aerosol graphite. I
> actually had to be satisfied with a lock spray which was part graphite. I
> sprayed it on the manifolds about 3 months ago and it turns into a nice
dark
> gray and has stayed the same ever since.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From "Peter Conover" <pconover at attbi.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:55:20 -0600
Subject: Carb shaft
The other weekend I was happily rebuilding my HS6 carbs from my BJ7 using the
SU "Master Rebuild Kit" when I got to the throttle shafts. Up until that
point I had been pretty impressed how much better the kit was compared to the
ones that I used in the past on the Zenith-Stromberg carbs in my Triumph.
The problem is that the new throttle shafts do not have the hole in them for
the pin that retains the "lost motion" lever in position. Using the old shaft
as a model, I have so far drilled a hole in one of the shafts, but I'm worried
that getting the relationship between the pin hole and the orientation of the
throttle disc even slightly off is going to cause me big problems in the
future.
Is there a trick to getting the hole drilled correctly? Or should I stop
worrying and get as close as I can? Why doesn't SU supply the shaft with the
hole already in?
Also, what is the proper way to get the original brass shaft bushings out of
the carb body?
Thanks,
Peter
'63 BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:00:15 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Also, can a regular cam be ground to road rally specs? Those ones for sale
are a bit pricey, at 312 lbs sterling. Which ones have people had experience
with (cape-international has several to choose from).
Ryan
BJ7
>
For more info see:
> > www.bighealey.co.uk & www.cape-international.com .
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:08:03 -0500
Subject: fog lite switch mount
Does anyone have a fog lite switch mount for underdash that they recomend ?
Plastic ones from radio shack seem to brake easy, Looking for nice chrome or
metal mount. Single switch hole.
Thanks,
Carroll Phillips
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:11:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
Steve Galyean
55 BN1
>
> << Beau Jo's Pizza in Idaho Springs. >>The Mountain Pie! Served with
Honey
> for the crust!
> Richard
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:55:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Brake Booster
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andrew Shrimpton
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:07 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Brake Booster
I have a BT7 to which I would like to fit a brake booster. Can anyone
suggest a unit which will work well, with reasonable feel - it has
been suggested a Hillman Hunter one.
Alternatively I have seen mentioned on the list a PBR booster (made in
Asutralia), which model is recommended?
All ideas and suggestions appreciated
Andrew Shrimpton
Rotorua
NZ
BT7
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:26:06 EST
Subject: Horn parts
Does anyone know what that disc is actually made out of? It looks very zinc
like to me, although it does seem to have a thin brass layer on each side.
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:37:09 EST
Subject: Re: "Safety Fast" Issues Sought
> MOWOGMAN@aol.com wrote:
>
> << Reid, don't you have every one of these anyway?!
> Every time I try to bid on any on Ebay, you win them,
> even the ones in the UK lately, I think? >>
>
> Let me clue you in to one if the "Insider Secrets"
> (TM) of eBay... now this is just between you and me...
> if you want to win items at auction on eBay, BID
> HIGHER than the other bidders! Shhh... not a word to
> anyone else now. Obviously we would not want Insider
> Secrets (TM) like this to get into general
> circulation. :-)
>
> << I just want one or two. >>
>
> Funny you should mention it, I have some duplicates.
> Contact me off list if interested.
>
>
> =====
> Reid Trummel
>
This response is supposed to entice me to do business with you? No thanks, I
can do without the struggle. Must be a new technique your're trying to
attract people to your club?
John.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:42:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: driving lights
For those lights, you should run a relay with power
drawn straight from the hot battery lead on the
solenoid. I use 15 amp blade fuses and they work very
well. My BJ8 has Flamethrowers on it, individually
switched like the way you want to set it up... FYI
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
> Installing two Lucas lights on the front and wonder
> if there is a
> preferred terminal on the control box to use for
> power.
> Also,what amp fuse should I use? Each light has
> its own switch.
> Thanks
>
> Bill Pollock
Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:29:13 -0800
Subject: Re: point gap
One note about the points rubbing block that rides on the distributor cam.
Always make the cam and point rubbing block is lubricated.
John
'62 BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 00:11:43 -0500
Subject: O rings
Several of the parts catalogues show two O rings to be used for the heater
control valve. One goes just below the valve and the other is shown below the
top of the heater housing. What purpose does the second one serve? Cannot
see that it seals anything. Am I missing something here? What is so special
about these O rings?
Keith Pennell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:40:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: O rings
The first o ring under the heater valve is critical -
it seals the heater, valve mounting adaptor, and
heater valve all in one fell swoop. If you are
replacing your heater valve, you should replace this
O-ring while you're at it.
I can't recall what the other O-ring is for, but I
believe it serves to buffer the heater core from the
top of the heater box to keep it from rattling. These
o-rings are very thick - thicker than a typical
o-ring....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> Several of the parts catalogues show two O rings to
> be used for the heater
> control valve. One goes just below the valve and
> the other is shown below the
> top of the heater housing. What purpose does the
> second one serve? Cannot
> see that it seals anything. Am I missing something
> here? What is so special
> about these O rings?
>
> Keith Pennell
Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 00:39:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn parts
Can't help you there but I have a few working and nonworking horns for the
later cars I would part with! :)
Keith Pennell
> Does anyone have any spare parts of BT7 horns? (horns are the correct
HF1748)
> Specifically I could use a round, front disc and the nut that holds it on.
> The disc is the 3 1/2" round, 1/8" thick disc made out of a zinc alloy?
The
> nut is the domed brass, fine threaded nut that holds the disc in place.
>
> Does anyone know what that disc is actually made out of? It looks very
zinc
> like to me, although it does seem to have a thin brass layer on each side.
>
>
>
>
>
> John, Oostburg, WI
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:49:35 -0800
Subject: are we working?
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:06:08 -0800
Subject: rear ends and speedos (not for swimming)
My new gears have been installed.
Now I need a shop to recalibrate the speedo.
All suggestions would be appreciated.
I am looking for some one who does both good work and is fast.
and on the left coast would be nice.
thanks
ron rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E type FHC
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:45:12 -0700
Subject: Re:
Bill Lawrence
"Dr. C Rubino" wrote:
> I watched a 1967 James Bond movie last night called Live and Let Die. took
> place in Japan and featured an interesting car. Looked like a cobra from the
> front, had the long flat oval rear of a spitfire. Had a slightly curved
> windshield but the pillars were pure healey (100). Had a Healey swag line
> and front fender flash.
>
> Any idea what this was? Was it a production car or a one off?
>
> No-I really don't care for vodka martini's either shaken or stirred.
> Carl A. Rubino
> ruvino@recorder.ca
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From wwcurl at wfubmc.edu (Walton Curl)
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 06:43:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Horn parts
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:04:57 +0800
Subject: Re: Brake Booster
The PBR VH44 is used extensively for the AH as a replacement for the
original.
I have one on my BT7 and it works very well. Cost about AUD 350 here in
Perth. You should change the master cylinder to the same size as on the BJ8
and you should be able to acquire on second hand very readily as they are
common on other cars.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road for 12 months and still going strong.
About to trip 4300km to Brisbane to the Australian National Rally.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Shrimpton" <andrew@hickeycontractors.co.nz>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:06 AM
Subject: Brake Booster
> I have a BT7 to which I would like to fit a brake booster. Can anyone
> suggest a unit which will work well, with reasonable feel - it has
> been suggested a Hillman Hunter one.
>
> Alternatively I have seen mentioned on the list a PBR booster (made in
> Asutralia), which model is recommended?
>
> All ideas and suggestions appreciated
>
> Andrew Shrimpton
> Rotorua
> NZ
> BT7
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 08:46:46 -0500
Subject: porting and polishing
Steve
61 BN7
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 06:39:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Robertshaw Balanced Sleeve Thermostat: Need Part # & Source
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From STEVEN.SCHMIDT at Inrange.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:58:51 -0500
Subject: Re: porting and polishing
I've used the intake as an example, but the same principles apply to
exhaust ports.
Manifolds can also be "port matched". Port matching can increase horse
power.
If the intake manifold has a larger opening than the head, part of air
fuel mixture
"slams" against the face of the head when exiting the manifold causing
turbulence.
Converselly, if the exaust manifold has a smaller opening than the head,
exaust gasses
"slam" into the face of the manifold casing turbulence and increasing back
pressure.
Porting and polishing, if not done correctly, can ruin an engine.
Determining how much
material to remove takes experience and know-how. Removing the material
takes talent.
I would not recomend to anyone that they try to port their Healey head
without plenty of previous
experience. I would only allow someone experienced with Healeys to do this
for me.
Steve Schmidt
BJ7
XJS
"Kocik, Stephen W"
<Stephen.Kocik@uni To: healeys@autox.team.net
sys.com> cc:
Sent by: Subject: porting and
polishing
owner-healeys@auto
x.team.net
02/28/2002 08:46
AM
Please respond to
"Kocik, Stephen W"
Hello fellow Healeyolics,
Since the list seems pretty quite, I have a question. I've seen
talk about porting and polishing the head in the past and was just
wondering
if someone could explain the procedure. Is this just a matter of polishing
burrs off of the exhaust and intake manifolds? Is this something that can
be done by oneself with a dremel or some other type of grinder. What are
the advantages of doing the above procedure? Do you really gain more
horsepower? Just curious. TIA
Steve
61 BN7
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:23:59 -0500
Subject: Hardtops for a 100
A friend of mine who owns a very original 100 was wondering if there
was ever a factory hard-top for a 100.
John Wheatley's book - Austin Healey 100 Super Profile, makes mention
under Accessories, of two styles of hardtop. Does anyone know if
examples of these still exist?
It also shows a photo of a 100 fitted with a hardtop made by
Universal Laminations.
Thanks,
Richard
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:39:31 EST
Subject: Pike's Peak factoids
In 1923 a whale was reported to be on the summit. Investigation revealed a 40'
wooden framework covered in the shape of a whale. Inside was a "notorious"
public relations man spraying seltzer through a blowhole.
The first road to the summit was built between 1868-1888 for carraiges. The
first assent by motor car was in 1901. The current road was built in 1915-1916
and is constantly being improved. The road is 19 miles long, the first 8 being
paved. I called the ranger station at the base of the Pike's Peak road and
explained the type of car that I would be driving. She said the graded section
is well maintained and by and large free of potholes with turnouts every 1/4
mile. She said we should all "c'mon down (or up)"--Sounds like a piece of cake!
Best to all--MIchael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:39:33 EST
Subject: Pike's Peak factoids
In 1923 a whale was reported to be on the summit. Investigation revealed a 40'
wooden framework covered in the shape of a whale. Inside was a "notorious"
public relations man spraying seltzer through a blowhole.
The first road to the summit was built between 1868-1888 for carraiges. The
first assent by motor car was in 1901. The current road was built in 1915-1916
and is constantly being improved. The road is 19 miles long, the first 8 being
paved. I called the ranger station at the base of the Pike's Peak road and
explained the type of car that I would be driving. She said the graded section
is well maintained and by and large free of potholes with turnouts every 1/4
mile. She said we should all "c'mon down (or up)"--Sounds like a piece of cake!
Best to all--MIchael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:05:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak factoids
------------------------
At 08:39 AM 2/28/2002, you wrote:
>I called the ranger station at the base of the Pike's Peak road and
>explained the type of car that I would be driving. She said the graded
>section is well maintained and by and large free of potholes with turnouts
>every 1/4 mile. She said we should all "c'mon down (or up)"--Sounds like
>a piece of cake!
>
>Best to all--MIchael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:01:50 EST
Subject: Re: Horn parts
Keith Pennell >>
Keith,
Would you have the plastic horn button with the 3000 lightning bolt and
chrome trim ring for a BJ8 that you could part out ? My button is in one
piece but with a crack through it internally.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Bill Berg" <Bill.Berg at vtcomposites.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:36:16 -0500
Subject: Speedometer rebuild
Bill
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:04:45 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
<<
Also, can a regular cam be ground to road rally specs? Those ones for sale
are a bit pricey, at 312 lbs sterling. Which ones have people had experience
with (cape-international has several to choose from). >>
If you're only interested in street use, my experience is that the cam specs
from the Phase II BJ8 are perfectly all right, and I'd recommend them for
every rebuilt engine from the very first 2912cc engine used in the 59 BN7s
and BT7s.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:08:35 EST
Subject: Re: rear ends and speedos (not for swimming)
<< I am looking for some one who does both good work and is fast.
and on the left coast would be nice.
thanks
ron rader >>
Palo Alto Speedo in Palo Alto, CA is very good (I've had my own work done
there regularly). They do advertise with my magazine and have for a very long
time. No complaints that I've heard.
Cheers
Gary
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:23:40 -0500
Subject: fog lite switch
Still interested in mounts or best place to mount
Thanks
Carroll
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:35:16 -0000
Subject: Leaking BN1 Engine
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 01:13:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaking BN1 Engine
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 12:35 PM
Subject: Leaking BN1 Engine
> I am on the way of completing a complete 2.5 year restoration of my 1955
BN1
> L228891 imported from the USA. The car is looking gorgeous, gun metal grey
and
> fitting now bright red interior and hood. The work I've done in the engine
was
> limited to a complete rebuild of the cylinder head, new guides . valves
> springs and so on, a replacement of the lateral cylinder block discs to
allow
> internal cleaning and a modification of the front crankshaft seal to allow
> fitting of a modern type one. The compression rate is very good so I don't
see
> any need to do further work in the engine. The engine is now running very
well
> but it seems to leak a lot from the rear area and less from the front but
> still leaking. Now: I know, from reading previous opinions at the list,
that
> any healey should leak no matter what one does, my question is HOW MUCH
> LEAKING IS ACCEPTABLE?
> Thanks for your wise opinions.
> Regards
> Manuel Sanchez
> 55 BN1
> 58 Frog
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:09:01 -0000
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak factoids
The challenge to drive up and down Pike's Peak (safely) is one not to be
missed. Mount Evans would be nice but too far off route.
Question - Can we, with an early start, get from Canon City, up and down the
Peak and back onto Route 50 at Salida and onto Grand Junction in one day?
Reasons - Don't want to go messing up motel reservations and secondly, I
would like to drive over Monarch's Pass on Route 50 as well.
Peter.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:40:03 EST
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak factoids
> Can we, with an early start, get from Canon City, up and down the
> Peak and back onto Route 50 at Salida and onto Grand Junction in one day?
>
> Reasons - Don't want to go messing up motel reservations and secondly, I
> would like to drive over Monarch's Pass on Route 50 as well
Peter-
Everyone recommends going up PP as early in the day as ppossble, both to
avoid traffic and to maximize visibility (the road opens at 7:00 AM). It is
approximately 70 miles from Canon City to PP via a short backtrack on route
50 and then route to Colorado Springs. However, staying in Colorado Springs
the night before climbing PP puts you there for an early climb and still does
not entail missing Monarch Pass, which is about 10 miles WEST of where you
could rejoin route 50 after having climbed PP and then continuing west on
route 24 and then south on 285 back to 50. This also gives plenty of time to
enjoy the climb, the view and the descent and still catch up comfortably with
the pack that night in Grand Junction
Think it over--I'll be happy to investigate hotels in and around Colorado
Springs.
Best--Michael
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:08:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Speedometer rebuild
This may be an old addr/phn.
bk
-----------------
At 10:36 AM 2/28/2002, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a recommended source for a speedometer rebuild? The last
>rebuild lasted 5 years. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Bill
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 16:26:03 -0500
Subject: Canon City - Pikes Peak
Hope this helps. I don't want to discourage anyone, but good plans gone
bad are better than bad plans.
If anyone disagrees, let me know.
Regards,
Charley
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:17:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Leaking BN1 Engine
- Chinese Proverb
> Sir,
> The front fiber seal should not leak at all, but a few drops on the floor
> overnight is not uncommon or unacceptable. The rear "seal" should not leak
> any more than a few drops per shut down. I have a fellow club member who has
> nick named his Healey the Exxon Valdez....not acceptable. The transmission
> and O/D should not leak at all, but again a few drops a day is, well, pretty
> common.
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs@emparque.pt>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 12:35 PM
> Subject: Leaking BN1 Engine
>
>
> > I am on the way of completing a complete 2.5 year restoration of my 1955
> BN1
> > L228891 imported from the USA. The car is looking gorgeous, gun metal grey
> and
> > fitting now bright red interior and hood. The work I've done in the engine
> was
> > limited to a complete rebuild of the cylinder head, new guides . valves
> > springs and so on, a replacement of the lateral cylinder block discs to
> allow
> > internal cleaning and a modification of the front crankshaft seal to allow
> > fitting of a modern type one. The compression rate is very good so I don't
> see
> > any need to do further work in the engine. The engine is now running very
> well
> > but it seems to leak a lot from the rear area and less from the front but
> > still leaking. Now: I know, from reading previous opinions at the list,
> that
> > any healey should leak no matter what one does, my question is HOW MUCH
> > LEAKING IS ACCEPTABLE?
> > Thanks for your wise opinions.
> > Regards
> > Manuel Sanchez
> > 55 BN1
> > 58 Frog
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:25:02 +0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
- Chinese Proverb
> In a message dated 2/27/02 7:04:34 PM, ryan@ledwith.com writes:
>
> <<
> Also, can a regular cam be ground to road rally specs? Those ones for sale
> are a bit pricey, at 312 lbs sterling. Which ones have people had experience
> with (cape-international has several to choose from). >>
>
> If you're only interested in street use, my experience is that the cam specs
> from the Phase II BJ8 are perfectly all right, and I'd recommend them for
> every rebuilt engine from the very first 2912cc engine used in the 59 BN7s
> and BT7s.
>
> Cheers
> Gary Anderson
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From "Peter Hunt" <peter at hunt.sol.co.uk>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:27:42 -0000
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak deviation.
Agree with the mileage -
Canon City - Turn-Off to PP ... 52 miles
To summit ... 18 miles. Return ... 18 miles.
T/O to Woodland Park 5 miles.
WDL Park - Poncha Springs 24/285 .... 94 miles.
Total - 187 miles. From Poncha Springs to Grand Junction ... 183
Total for the day 370 miles
With an spirited climb, time to savour the view and a good test of Healey
brakes, we will make it in one day. We all must have an aim to achieve
something just that little extra each day!
Peter.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak factoids
> In a message dated 2/28/02 3:28:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> peter@hunt.sol.co.uk writes:
>
>
> > Can we, with an early start, get from Canon City, up and down the
> > Peak and back onto Route 50 at Salida and onto Grand Junction in one
day?
> >
> > Reasons - Don't want to go messing up motel reservations and secondly, I
> > would like to drive over Monarch's Pass on Route 50 as well
>
> Peter-
>
> Everyone recommends going up PP as early in the day as ppossble, both to
> avoid traffic and to maximize visibility (the road opens at 7:00 AM). It
is
> approximately 70 miles from Canon City to PP via a short backtrack on
route
> 50 and then route to Colorado Springs. However, staying in Colorado
Springs
> the night before climbing PP puts you there for an early climb and still
does
> not entail missing Monarch Pass, which is about 10 miles WEST of where
you
> could rejoin route 50 after having climbed PP and then continuing west on
> route 24 and then south on 285 back to 50. This also gives plenty of time
to
> enjoy the climb, the view and the descent and still catch up comfortably
with
> the pack that night in Grand Junction
>
> Think it over--I'll be happy to investigate hotels in and around Colorado
> Springs.
> Best--Michael
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:57:00 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
> 25 years ago I had Ed Iskaderian in Los Angeles grind my
> stock cam to what he called a mild performance grind.
> Unfortunately I have no idea where the specs are for the
> cam.
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:13:56 EST
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak deviation.
<<
Total - 187 miles. From Poncha Springs to Grand Junction ... 183
Total for the day 370 miles
With an spirited climb, time to savour the view and a good test of Healey
brakes, we will make it in one day. We all must have an aim to achieve
something just that little extra each day!
Peter. >>
If it will get you through Timbuktoo (or wherever it was) guess it ought to
work on Pike's Peak.
Cheers (and cheering)
gary
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 10:16:35 +1100
Subject: RE: Hardtops for a 100
While there were a number of hard tops available for the 100, none were BMC
factory produced. Here in Australia it was possible to order a hard top when
you ordered your new 100 but it was an accessory made by an outside source.
I recently sold a 100 hard top complete with fittings but in need of a
restoration for Aus$150 which sort of typifies the popularity.
I realise that it's very much in the eye of the beholder but I think that
any of the various 100 hard tops look terrible and no where as attractive as
the six cylinder roadsters versions.
There were no factory hard tops for the convertibles either, however the
DHMC had a nice little earner making their own.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Wegner [mailto:rwegner@synapse.net]
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 3:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hardtops for a 100
Hi,
A friend of mine who owns a very original 100 was wondering if there
was ever a factory hard-top for a 100.
John Wheatley's book - Austin Healey 100 Super Profile, makes mention
under Accessories, of two styles of hardtop. Does anyone know if
examples of these still exist?
It also shows a photo of a 100 fitted with a hardtop made by
Universal Laminations.
Thanks,
Richard
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 23:33:55 +0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
- Chinese Proverb
> I had a similar "mild performance" Isky grind cam on my MGA 1600 engine.
> It was great, combined with slightly over bored pistons it gave the A an
> estim. 10-15% more hp and was very streetable.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
>
>
> > 25 years ago I had Ed Iskaderian in Los Angeles grind my
> > stock cam to what he called a mild performance grind.
> > Unfortunately I have no idea where the specs are for the
> > cam.
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > Digs-4 Solutions
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:49:37 EST
Subject: RE: Hardtops for a 100
I always wondered why no one ever made a six cylinder style hardtop for the
100 until I was browsing through David Ward's "Big Healey Restorations"
website and found just this item listed under "Works Hardtops". There are
some small pictures and a price list (they're not cheap) on the website,
http://www.bighealey.ltd.uk.
I for one would be interested in any feedback from someone who has purchased
and installed one on their car.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
G'day Richard
While there were a number of hard tops available for the 100, none were BMC
factory produced. Here in Australia it was possible to order a hard top when
you ordered your new 100 but it was an accessory made by an outside source.
I recently sold a 100 hard top complete with fittings but in need of a
restoration for Aus$150 which sort of typifies the popularity.
I realise that it's very much in the eye of the beholder but I think that
any of the various 100 hard tops look terrible and no where as attractive as
the six cylinder roadsters versions.
There were no factory hard tops for the convertibles either, however the
DHMC had a nice little earner making their own.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Wegner [mailto:rwegner@synapse.net]
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 3:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hardtops for a 100
Hi,
A friend of mine who owns a very original 100 was wondering if there
was ever a factory hard-top for a 100.
John Wheatley's book - Austin Healey 100 Super Profile, makes mention
under Accessories, of two styles of hardtop. Does anyone know if
examples of these still exist?
It also shows a photo of a 100 fitted with a hardtop made by
Universal Laminations.
Thanks,
Richard
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:54:52 -0500
Subject: Dents
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:10:21 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> 25 years ago I had Ed Iskaderian in Los Angeles grind my
> stock cam to what he called a mild performance grind.
> Unfortunately I have no idea where the specs are for the
> cam.
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
> > In a message dated 2/27/02 7:04:34 PM, ryan@ledwith.com writes:
> >
> > <<
> > Also, can a regular cam be ground to road rally specs? Those ones for sale
> > are a bit pricey, at 312 lbs sterling. Which ones have people had experience
> > with (cape-international has several to choose from). >>
> >
> > If you're only interested in street use, my experience is that the cam
>specs
> > from the Phase II BJ8 are perfectly all right, and I'd recommend them for
> > every rebuilt engine from the very first 2912cc engine used in the 59 BN7s
> > and BT7s.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary Anderson
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:03:32 -0500
Subject: Hardtop for a 100
Alain Giguhre
BN7( with a rather expensive hardtop).
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:19:55 -0800
Subject: Stewart "Modified Balanced Sleeve Thermostat"
Got my "modified, balanced-sleeve" Robertshaw thermostat from
Stewart today.
Near as I can tell, this is just a Robertshaw 330-180 (fits a Big Healey,
BTW) with three holes drilled in it to allow some water flow when
closed.
Save your money.
The modifed stat sold by British Car Specialists (and maybe Moss)
has an additional sleeve soldered to it to partially cover the return
passage in the head. Last I checked, they only had it in 160 deg,
though.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:31:28 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
-Roland
BJ7
:: > > In a message dated 2/27/02 7:04:34 PM, ryan@ledwith.com writes:
:: > >
:: > > <<
:: > > Also, can a regular cam be ground to road rally specs? Those ones for
:sale
:: > > are a bit pricey, at 312 lbs sterling. Which ones have people had
:experience
:: > > with (cape-international has several to choose from). >>
:: > >
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:30:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: John Wheatley in Tampa March 7
For any of you who can make it, you might want to come
out to the Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club's monthly
dinner/business meeting on March 7 at Jimmy Mac's
restaurant near the intersection of Gandy and
Westshore in Tampa. John Wheatley will be the guest
speaker.
John is one of the world's all-time greatest
Austin-Healey enthusiasts. He worked as an engineer
for the Austin Motor Co. since the 1950s, retiring in
the latter 1980s. He is the original owner of his
1954 BN1, well-known by its registration number of
OOM552; it is one of the most photographed
Austin-Healeys ever and in fact it is the car that was
the subject for the UK postage stamp that features a
close-up of the front of a Healey Blue Healey Hundred.
John is the author of two books on Healeys and he was
the Healey 100 Registrar in England for many years.
He has done MUCH research and writing on Healeys and
in fact he is the reason that we know that the BMC
records indicate that 640 BN2 series cars were
converted to 100M specification because John waded
through the microfilm records of thousands and
thousands of the original Job Production Cards and
counted them!
Please do yourself a favor and come out and meet this
wonderful gentleman and fellow enthusiast next
Thursday evening beginning at about 6:00 p.m. in
Tampa, Florida.
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:50:13 EST
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100
<< Looking at the Big Healey UK "works" hardtops, I think the photos speak
for themselves. They look exactly like a factory hardtop...shrunk in the
wash! The best solution: buy a 3000 if you want to go hartopping! >>
Maybe so, but no 3000 will ever look as good as a 100!
Curt
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 13:29:01 +1000
Subject: Re: Hardtop for a 100
Mmmmm - Debateable (and I'm sure it will be)
Roadster 3000's look as good IMO.
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:35:07 -0800
Subject: [xk] Car wanted (No XK content)
Listers:
>From the XK list. please contact Ron Duncan direct.
Ron Rader
If anyone has a 100-4 or TR2-3 for sale I would be interested in hearing from
you. NO projects.
I MAY consider doing the engine but absolutely NO body work or paint work.
Thanks
Ron Duncan
Duncan120@aol.com
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:41:30 -0800
Subject: I'm back
1965 BJ8
1967 E type FHC
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Healeyphiles" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 22:31:00 -0800
Subject: Tahoe shipping: open roads 2002
Depending on the demand, I can have the truck start in San Diego,
stop at one spot on Orange County, and then again at one location
in Los Angeles. At this point I believe the cars will be picked up
on Thursday, June 20th and will be available on Saturday
June 22, 2002. the truck will leave Tahoe on Saturday June 29th.
The cars would be parked and covered (if there is a cover with
the car) in valet parking which is where most of us will be parking
during the event. Keys will be held for owner pick up.
The maximum and minimum prices depends on the number of cars
and the number of pick-up locations. At this time the price looks
like approximately $650 per car, round trip.
So, please e-mail me with the information on your car(s) and
where the best place would be to pick up your car. From that
we will work it out. At this time I need a serious head count.
On May first I will need real money..
Reminder California Healey Week. The pre celebration celebration.
May 2nd to May 5th. Solvang, California. (North of Santa Barbara).
contact Ralph Comito (rcomito@uia.net) for CHW info.
thanks
Ron Rader
Marina del Rey, CA
rader@interworld.net
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