<daydonnad@aol.com>
<wahill@aol.com>
<slkelleway@aol.com>
<blanchardhealey@aol.com>
rheimann@prodigy.net
Douglaswhite@prodigy.net
HKGrimm@iopener.net
klsn@juno.com
CHARLIE@PCWC.COM
hmtlaw@koan.com
thanks
Ron Rader
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 07:52:20 +0000
Subject: Re: driving lights
Just a small and maybe somewhat acedemic point but all loads on the
battery and dynamo system should go via the control box. That is,
connected to the A1 connection. This will route the extra current
through the control box series coil. This will in turn increase the
dynamo output to compensate for the extra load. If taken directly from
the battery the control box will not "know" that more charge is required
until the battery has discharged a little.
I agree an extra fuse should be added
All the best
>Bill -
>
>For those lights, you should run a relay with power
>drawn straight from the hot battery lead on the
>solenoid. I use 15 amp blade fuses and they work very
>well. My BJ8 has Flamethrowers on it, individually
>switched like the way you want to set it up... FYI
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
>> Installing two Lucas lights on the front and wonder
>> if there is a
>> preferred terminal on the control box to use for
>> power.
>> Also,what amp fuse should I use? Each light has
>> its own switch.
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bill Pollock
>Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion!
>
--
John Harper
From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:13:06 -0000
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Good advice - this cam also works well with the early 100/6 "gallery head".
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Editorgary@aol.com
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
In a message dated 2/27/02 7:04:34 PM, ryan@ledwith.com writes:
<<
Also, can a regular cam be ground to road rally specs? Those ones for sale
are a bit pricey, at 312 lbs sterling. Which ones have people had experience
with (cape-international has several to choose from). >>
If you're only interested in street use, my experience is that the cam specs
from the Phase II BJ8 are perfectly all right, and I'd recommend them for
every rebuilt engine from the very first 2912cc engine used in the 59 BN7s
and BT7s.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 05:10:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Tahoe shipping: open roads 2002
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:33:19 -0500
Subject: Healey sighting-Toronto in February
From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:35:56 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
> I had a similar "mild performance" Isky grind cam on my MGA 1600 engine.
> It was great, combined with slightly over bored pistons it gave the A an
> estim. 10-15% more hp and was very streetable.
> Coop ('66 BJ8)
>
>
> > 25 years ago I had Ed Iskaderian in Los Angeles grind my
> > stock cam to what he called a mild performance grind.
> > Unfortunately I have no idea where the specs are for the
> > cam.
> > --
> > Ira Erbs
> > Digs-4 Solutions
From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 11:39:46 -0500
Subject: RE: Dents
If the dents are evenly spaced on the bonnet air intake surround they
are probably more likely caused by over tightening of the nuts that hold
it on than external damage. There are meant to be fiber spacers between
the surround and the bonnet which are often missed. This combined with
over tightening of the 10/32 nuts will always cause distortion of the
surround.
Probably best to remove the surround and check for the spacers before
doing anything else.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy Phillips
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 8:55 PM
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Dents
I just got my car back from getting the NJ inspection. The garage that
did
it did a fine job of fixing a couple of things for me and were very
friendly. Unfortunately, they dented the chrome trim on the hood when
they
were shutting it ... not once but thrice! They are small dents so I was
wondering what the best way to tap them out might be?
Andy
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 09:57:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Dents
Magicare wrote:
> Hi Andy,
>
> If the dents are evenly spaced on the bonnet air intake surround they
> are probably more likely caused by over tightening of the nuts that hold
> it on than external damage. There are meant to be fiber spacers between
> the surround and the bonnet which are often missed. This combined with
> over tightening of the 10/32 nuts will always cause distortion of the
> surround.
>
> Probably best to remove the surround and check for the spacers before
> doing anything else.
>
> Mike Salter
> Precision Sportscar
> www.precisionsportscar.com
From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 12:37:37 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: Turn Signal
Anyone have a serviceable replacement? Please contact me off list. Thanks.
Lynn BT7
Springfield, IL
From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 19:14:14 +0000
Subject: enron humor
In case you were wondering how Enron came into so much
trouble, here is an explanation reputedly given by a
Texas A&M professor to explain it in terms his students
could understand.
In capitalism, you have two cows. You sell one and buy a
bull. Your herd multiplies, and the economy grows. You
sell them and retire on the income.
In Enron capitalism, you have two cows. You sell three
of them to your publicly listed company, using letters
of credit opened by your brother-in-law at the bank,
then execute a debt/equity swap with an associated
general offer so that you get all four cows back, with a
tax exemption for five cows. The milk rights of the six
cows are transferred via an intermediary to a Cayman
Island company secretly owned by your CFO who sells the
rights to all seven cows back to your listed company.
The annual report says the company owns eight cows, with
an option on six more.
Now do you see why a company with $62 billion in assets
declared bankruptcy?
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:19:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Healey sighting-Toronto in February
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 18:08:31 -0500
Subject: 3.54 Gear Report
The new rear wheel bearings are in, all buttoned up, and TARHEELY's cooling
off in the garage after the 10-mile breakin run of the new gear set. I had
the rear seats out, and it sounded like a turbine! Not objectionable
(actually, neat) and wouldn't be noticeable with the seats in anyway, but
the engine really LOAFs now at speed in overdrive.
The new gearset is great! Thanks a million, Mike Lempert.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 18:17:45 EST
Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Report
You guys are in for a treat.
Rick
San Diego
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 18:39:36 EST
Subject: Check out Welcome to Pikes Peak International Hill Climb
Best to all--Michael
> <A HREF="http://www.ppihc.com/ppihc_current.html";>Click here: Welcome to
>Pikes Peak International Hill Climb</A>
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 19:46:51 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
http://www.iskycams.com/
and search for the BMC "C" type application. Two grinds available. Cost is
about $100 if you supply a regrindable core.
Rick
<<Since Ed is no longer working regularly it is necessary to urge his son or
other employees to search the files for the old grind patterns. FWIW the
Isky grind for the 100's is T3....
That's all folks....
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100>>
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 21:00:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
Tom
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 18:42:53 -0800
Subject: Rad
A MOWOG part, perhaps?
Bob
From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:26:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Rad
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 9:42 PM
Subject: Rad
> Just saw the byline: "Radiator Problem Dogs Space Shuttle"
> on the SF Chronicle's Web site.
>
> A MOWOG part, perhaps?
>
> Bob
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 22:52:13 EST
Subject: Re: Rad
<< Just saw the byline: "Radiator Problem Dogs Space Shuttle"
on the SF Chronicle's Web site.
A MOWOG part, perhaps?
Bob >>
Nah, probably just another pesky ammonia leak. I guess I was really busy
today, or I would have the full explanation for you.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 23:31:09 -0500
Subject: Banjo bolt
Does anyone know the size and TPI for the banjo bolt connecting the oil feed
pipe to the pedestle in the rocker arm assembly? I believe I have stripped
threads in the pedestle. Think this could be repaired with helicoil?
Keith Pennell
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 20:57:39 -0800
Subject: wont start revisited
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 08:33:43 -0600
Subject: Need address,,Mike Lempert
Thanks, Mark
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 09:26:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Need address,,Mike Lempert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 9:33 AM
Subject: Need address,,Mike Lempert
> I keep getting return mail from Mike Lempert
(mdlempert@worldnet.att.net)
> Can anyone assist me in contacting Mike.
>
> Thanks, Mark
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 19:47:23 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>
To: <frogeye@swcp.com>; <coop1@dnai.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
> Actually, it's even simpler. Just go to the Isky website:
>
> http://www.iskycams.com/
>
> and search for the BMC "C" type application. Two grinds available. Cost
is
> about $100 if you supply a regrindable core.
>
> Rick
>
> <<Since Ed is no longer working regularly it is necessary to urge his son
or
> other employees to search the files for the old grind patterns. FWIW the
> Isky grind for the 100's is T3....
> That's all folks....
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100>>
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 10:05:37 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: <HealeyRic2@aol.com>; <coop1@dnai.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
> Isn't this computer technology great....too bad the politicians aren't as
> efficient...sigh
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 09:24:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Need address,,Mike Lempert
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 10:04:49 -0800
Subject: off I go
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 12:20:03 -0800
Subject: Ratio Adapters
> We do not have ratio adapters that will for on the back of the speedometers.
> We can however make you a ratio adapter that will fit in line in a
> speedometer cable. We charge $135.00 for the adapter, and $75.00 for the
> modified cable. It is best to complete one of our ratio test forms to
> achieve the best accuracy. The ratio test form you will find on our site.
>
> Please feel free to call me if you have any questions at all.
>
>
> Hartmut C. Mees
> 650.323.0243
FYI only, I have no financial interest in PAS (but they did do good
work for me once).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 16:38:41 -0600
Subject: BT7 frame advise
My questions to the body and frameologists on the list are;
- What may have happened between the installation of the passenger side and
installation of the drivers side to make the drivers side close up the way
it did?
- If he was to basically cut out and start over again on the drivers side
what would you recommend he do to bring it back to usable operation?
- Is it a good idea to reinstall new body parts exactly where the old ones
were installed. Or is it necessary to compensate for possible differences
in stampings over the years?
I am determined to get this first and last Healey of mine on the road
heading to one of the conclaves that I keep hearing about and I'm not about
to let a simple problem like a shrinking drivers side door opening stop
me.: ) So if some one would kindly help me dig myself out of this temporary
hole that I am in I would be much obliged.
Thanks in advance, Mark
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 17:26:23 -0500
Subject: Banjo bolt outcome
I had no intention of trying the helicoil as I did not think the TPI would
allow it, but my friend wanted to try. I robbed a threaded pedestle off a
rocker assembly I had and installed it this morn. That leak taken care of!
Now If that flex line to the OP gauge, flex line to the carbs, and fuel line
fitting at the fuel pump would just quit leaking!!!!!!!!
Trying-to-resurrect-a-car-which-has-been-sitting-for-35+years
Keith
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 14:44:04 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Bob '62 BN7 & BT7
----------
>From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
>To: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
>Date: Thu, Feb 28, 2002, 6:35 PM
>
> Since Ed is no longer working regularly it is necessary to urge his son or
> other employees to search the files for the old grind patterns. FWIW the
> Isky grind for the 100's is T3....
> That's all folks....
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Coop1" <coop1@dnai.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:57 PM
> Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
>
>
>> I had a similar "mild performance" Isky grind cam on my MGA 1600 engine.
>> It was great, combined with slightly over bored pistons it gave the A an
>> estim. 10-15% more hp and was very streetable.
>> Coop ('66 BJ8)
>>
>>
>> > 25 years ago I had Ed Iskaderian in Los Angeles grind my
>> > stock cam to what he called a mild performance grind.
>> > Unfortunately I have no idea where the specs are for the
>> > cam.
>> > --
>> > Ira Erbs
>> > Digs-4 Solutions
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 17:58:39 -0800
Subject: Lempert's rear end
my report on the new 3.54 rear end gears.
I picked up the BJ8 this morning and drove it home.
Since the speedo is in the shop being re calibrated I don't have
much info on speed versus RPM but based on my wife telling
me I was going 70 MPH the tach indicated about 3100 or 3200
RPM. This is on 185 R 70s. Seemed quieter at speed but I need
a speedo to figure things out.
More when available.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Marina del Rey CA
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 20:56:47 -0500
Subject: seam sealer
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From "Barbara C Wojcik" <bcwojcik at ties.k12.mn.us>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 23:05:44 -0600
Subject: fog light switch
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 01:01:58 -0500
Subject: Re: seam sealer
Dennis,
I used brush on seam sealer on the floor joints and in a couple other places
inside too. Also used just over one tube and sealed all the places
underneath where one face met another. This was all before the color coat.
Keith Pennell
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 16:09:07 +1000
Subject: Healey MM Trophy
MILLE MIGLIA 1948 - Trophy awarded to Donald Healey
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1808757455
I recall another item for sale some months ago that turned out to be "hot".
Is this another of the trophy's stolen from Geoff Healey's house?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 03:22:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey MM Trophy
<< I recall another item for sale some months ago
that turned out to be "hot". Is this another of the
trophy's stolen from Geoff Healey's house? >>
Greg,
I had never heard of this theft. Please tell us more.
When did this theft occur? What did they take? What
other stolen items have turned up? Have some of them
also been auctioned on eBay?
=====
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
100, 100M, Bugeye & Ski-Master
http://www.healey.org
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
===============================
Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 08:36:57 EST
Subject: Stolen trophies
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 06:17:08 -0800
Subject: Fixing Front Seal Oil Leak-crankshaft pulley sleeve
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
Keywords fixing crankshaft pulley front oil seal leak sleeve
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From Reid Trummel <healeys at healeyhighlights.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 06:50:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Stolen trophies
Seems that someone with first hand knowledge -- or at
least as "first hand" as we can get, such as hearing
it directly from DMH and/or GCH and/or Bic -- should
consider reporting it.
Not trying to preach; just suggesting those in the
know consider their potential responsibilities and act
according to their own decisions.
Reid
--- Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> I remember Donald and Geoff telling me of a thieft
> at the house .....but it
> was too many years ago for me to remember
> particulars.........I want to say
> it was from the house before Treba......I'm sure
> that spelling is
> wrong.....and my books are not at the house for
> reference......Geoff took me
> by this house and I can't remember the name of
> it.......At Donald's funeral
> when John took us through Donald's room and showed
> us the remaining
> trophies....I'm sure he mentioned the thieft
> also......Scotty
Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 10:40:47 EST
Subject: RE: STOLEN ITEMS
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:50:35 EST
Subject: Re: Fixing Front Seal Oil Leak-crankshaft pulley sleeve
<< I found Speedi-Sleeve by Chicago Rawhide. It is a thin stainless steel
sleeve which is a press fit on the crank pulley and covers the grooves left
by the previous seals. >>
At the North Texas AH Club web site <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">ntahc.org</A>
there is a tech article about the Speedi Sleeve.
Don
Ausyin Healey Parts
<A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">Dun-Rite Tool Co</A>
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From jbpate <jbpate at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 12:26:20 -0500
Subject: Dashpad installation
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 13:37:25 -0800
Subject: Re: STOLEN ITEMS
Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> BEGGAR'S ROOST was the name of the house that was broken into.....I would say
> contacting one of the remaining Healey family members would be
> appropriate........Scotty
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From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 19:57:57 +0100
Subject: Clicking fuel pump again
a couple of weeks ago I posted a question on my ever clicking fuel pump.
Thanks for the many answers which I only was able to follow up on this
weekend.
Replay: The fuel pump on my BJ8 keeps on clicking while
a. ignition ON on but engine off - every 4 seconds (even after the
initial pressure build-up)
b. engine running in idle - every 2 seconds
c. driving - can4t tell exactly how frequently - too loud
I blocked the fuel line before the carbs (with my thumb) after the fuel
filter. On ignition on the fuel pump keeps clicking every 4 seconds.
Am I right to assume that the culprit is the pump itself and that I
don4t have to start messing about with the cabs? Just want to make sure
and avoid getting the pump out only to find out that this is normal for
a completely blocked line. (I can4t accesse the pump through the seat.
Some PO glued the seat and the leather to the chassis)
Thanks for any feedback on this.
Thomas BJ8 467
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 14:13:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: STOLEN ITEMS
FC
On Sun, 03 Mar 2002 13:37:25 -0800 Robert Denton <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
wrote:
If I'm not mistaken, it was decided by this illustrious group that this and a
couple of other trophies were "clean" when they came up for auction in Australia
a number of months ago.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 14:54:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Clicking fuel pump again
With the line blocked at the carbs and no leaks it still pumps occasionally,
then it seems to me that the pump diaphragm has either a sealing problem or
pinhole.
BTW, your thumb may not be sufficient to block the fuel line effectively if
the pump is 'up to snuff'. I insert an appropriate sized bolt and clamp it.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I blocked the fuel line before the carbs (with my thumb) after the fuel
> filter. On ignition on the fuel pump keeps clicking every 4 seconds.
>
> Am I right to assume that the culprit is the pump itself and that I
> don4t have to start messing about with the cabs? Just want to make sure
> and avoid getting the pump out only to find out that this is normal for
> a completely blocked line.
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 15:08:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Clicking fuel pump again
Your fuel pump, assuming that is a S.U. pump, should not click every 4
seconds when not delivering fuel. This is not in itself a tragedy but
things are not however exactly as they should be.
The factory specification indicates that the pump should not activate
under those conditions more frequently than once every 15 seconds.
If the pump activates more frequently than this the most likely culprit
is the suction valve within the pump. This is probably allowing the
pressure to bleed back to the tank.
This can often be corrected by exchanging the delivery and suction
valves in the pump. As I recall these are identical and interchangeable
and it is unlikely that you would have 2 in poor condition. The action
of the delivery valve is not as critical.
If you pump is the original you may want to consider a new replacement
and keeping your original as a spare. The pumps available from S.U.
today look virtually identical but have substantially improved electrics
which make them more reliable.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TC
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 1:58 PM
To: healeys-owner@autox.team.net; Healey Chat
Subject: Clicking fuel pump again
Listers,
a couple of weeks ago I posted a question on my ever clicking fuel pump.
Thanks for the many answers which I only was able to follow up on this
weekend.
Replay: The fuel pump on my BJ8 keeps on clicking while
a. ignition ON on but engine off - every 4 seconds (even after the
initial pressure build-up)
b. engine running in idle - every 2 seconds
c. driving - can4t tell exactly how frequently - too loud
I blocked the fuel line before the carbs (with my thumb) after the fuel
filter. On ignition on the fuel pump keeps clicking every 4 seconds.
Am I right to assume that the culprit is the pump itself and that I
don4t have to start messing about with the cabs? Just want to make sure
and avoid getting the pump out only to find out that this is normal for
a completely blocked line. (I can4t accesse the pump through the seat.
Some PO glued the seat and the leather to the chassis)
Thanks for any feedback on this.
Thomas BJ8 467
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 15:23:18 EST
Subject: poster
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From Robert Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 15:33:11 -0800
Subject: Donald's "stolen" trophy
I'm sure "busyrider" will have something to say to you about it.
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From "Healey, Graham" <Graham.Healey at lse.com.au>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:44:07 +1100
Subject: RE: STOLEN ITEMS
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 15:16:10 -0800
Subject: Lempert's rear end, again
I drove the car about 100 miles today through the Santa Monica mountains and
down
PCH. I used ALL the gears.
I have been working on the California Healey week rally from west LA to Solvang.
The 3.54 rear end gearing seems to make everything very nice and quiet. I did
not
have any feeling of loss of low end power but I have not been a stop light
Grand
Prix racer for many many years.
So all in all my impression is that this is truly a good thing.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Rich Locasso wrote:
> Hi Ron-
>
> Thanks for your post. Very interested in how the new rear works for
>you
> so please post again when you can.
>
> Rich
> BT7
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
> >
> > Listers:
> >
> > my report on the new 3.54 rear end gears.
> >
> > I picked up the BJ8 this morning and drove it home.
> >
> > Since the speedo is in the shop being re calibrated I don't have
> > much info on speed versus RPM but based on my wife telling
> > me I was going 70 MPH the tach indicated about 3100 or 3200
> > RPM. This is on 185 R 70s. Seemed quieter at speed but I need
> > a speedo to figure things out.
> >
> > More when available.
> >
> > Ron Rader
> > 1965 BJ8
> > Marina del Rey CA
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 15:50:48 -0800
Subject: BJ8 questions
The steering column has two hex head screws just before the column enters the
dash board.
Are these adjustments to move the steering wheel in and out?
Is the final bracket that holds the two final pipes under the rear bumper
difficult to find.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:45:50 -0500
Subject: Rebuilding Overdrive Unit
Actually, I'm just opening my BJ7 overdrive enough to clean out the gunk and
replace the gaskets so it won't leak any more. But, I can't seem to get the
rear part separated from the middle part of the OD. The front adapter plate
came off fine.
Any suggestions?
Also, what do people use to clean the insides of the unit? What about paint
thinner?
Ryan
BJ7
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 18:20:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Installing distributor
Bill Lawrence
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Earl,
>
> Thanks for the info. Since the engine was rebuilt by someone else, cannot
> verify the cam timing is correct. 2 or 3 others have suggested this as the
> possible cause of my woes.
>
> Interestingly, I was reading in the Haynes manual this afternoon about
> installing the dist and it said to go by #6 cyl at TDC with #1 exhaust
> closing and intake opening. This is before inserting the tach drive gear in
> the block. Why is this manual procedure based upon #6 and the other two I
> looked at yesterday based upon #1??????
>
> Don't think the 180 thing is the problem because as you said I seem to be
> 1/6 of a turn out of whack with the distributor. Will try reinserting the
> dist drive gear but that will still not resolve the fact that #1 cylinder at
> top of its compression stroke does not coincide with #6 cyl exhaust closing
> and intake opening.
>
> Still confused but very suspicious of the cam timing
> Keith
>
> > Keith:
> >
> > I'm assuming that the valve timing is correct - ie: the timing chain has
> > been installed correctly - although your posting has me thinking about
> that!
> > I'd double check it if I were you.
> >
> > It is confusing, but it sounds like the distributor drive gear is one
> tooth
> > off. Try re-inserting it, meshing it to the next tooth clockwise and see
> > what happens. You should be close. You need to be sure that it is #1 at
> > the firing position, and that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug lead in
> > the cap. It's possible to get the tach drive extension spindle 180 degrees
> > out - don't want that! It's also possible that it has to be that way if
> the
> > distributor is also 180 degrees out! (Two backwards makes a forward?)
> Have
> > fun -----------------
> >
> > Earl Kagna
> > Victoria, B.C. Canada
> > '62 tri-carb
> > '67 BJ8
> > Listers I Need Help!
> >
> > Was just ready today to turn over friend's BJ7 rebuilt engine when I went
> to
> > set the distributor so that rotor pointed to #1 wire with crankshaft
> pulley
> > at
> > TDC. Could not do it. It required turning the distributor so far
> > counterclockwise that the #1 plug wire would not reach plug.
> >
> > So back to the drawing board. Removed the dist and tach housing and
> > followed
> > the factory and Haynes manuals. To position the tach housing it said to
> > rotate the crank until #1 cyl at top of its compression stroke (i. e. #6
> cyl
> > exhaust valve just closed and intake valve just opening). Well, when
> these
> > valve positons are right the piston is only maybe halfway up. It then
> says
> > to
> > turn crank so timing marker is aligned with pointer on timing chain cover.
> > In
> > order to do this the crank has to be turned another 1/3 or so turn!!! And
> > obviously the valve positions for #6 cyl are now not where they were. In
> > addition, the slot which drives the tach shaft is not in the "twenty to
> two"
> > position. More like 12 o'clock!
> >
> > Distributor seems to be about 1/6 turn out of rotation.
> >
> > What is going on here????
> >
> > Need lots of help here please.
> >
> > Trying-to-follow-the-manual-but-throughly-confused
> > Keith Pennell
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 20:38:49 EST
Subject: poster
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 18:29:40 -0700
Subject: Re: no go
Bill Lawrence
WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/24/02 20:42:42, eyera3@attbi.com writes:
>
> << couldn't get it to fire off. Reset the point gap. but I guess I need to
> pull
> and clean the plugs, and replace the points with a fresh set. Maybe the sun
> gods will look kindly on we Pacific Northwesterners and shine on us again over
> the weekend.
> Thanks again to all who reminded me its .14 + on the setting.
> Ira >>
>
> These cars will fire in a very wide range of settings. Specially when you
> consider the life cycle of a set of points (they change shape almost daily).
>
> I would suggest replacing the condenser.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From Dan Buettner <danb at thelittlemacshop.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:53:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Overdrive Unit
You can download a scanned copy of the Triumph factory service manual
for the A-type overdrives from my Web site at
ftp://ftp.thelittlemacshop.com/a_typ_od.pdf
Also, Nelson Riedel has put together some excellent documentation on
disassembly, repair and reassembly of the A-type overdrives: go to
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org and look in the Technical area. Both
HTML and PDF versions are available.
Note that the same A-type overdrive was used on the early Triumph TRs
as on Austin-Healey 100's and 3000's; there were some minor
differences such as gear ratios and hydraulic piston diameters, but
overhaul remains the same.
HTH!
Dan
At 19:45 -0500 03/03/02, Ryan@Ledwith wrote:
>Listers:
>
>Actually, I'm just opening my BJ7 overdrive enough to clean out the gunk and
>replace the gaskets so it won't leak any more. But, I can't seem to get the
>rear part separated from the middle part of the OD. The front adapter plate
>came off fine.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>Also, what do people use to clean the insides of the unit? What about paint
>thinner?
>
>Ryan
>BJ7
--
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Dan Buettner - Des Moines, Iowa - mailto:danb@thelittlemacshop.com
1957 TR3, TS15098L 'O' - with a nice shiny rear axle installed!
Front suspension & steering back together too - now for the brakes.
1977 Spitfire, FM64159U 'O' - in storage.
Visit the Team.Net Triumph list member pages at:
http://www.thelittlemacshop.com/trsite/index.html
Photos, downloads, member bios, and more!
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 18:47:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Moss Interior Kits
Bill Lawrence
Mark Endicott wrote:
> Does anyone know if the Moss interior and carpet kits are any good and
> reasonably accurate for a BN1? Does it contain the armacord (sp) for the
> area behind the seats.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
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From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 18:28:43 -0800
Subject: steering wheel repair
Apparently, because of an accident, the steering wheel on my 100 is damaged
and needs repair. At 8 o'clock & 2 o'clock, it looks like hands pushed the
wheel forward, distorting the rim. When the wheel is face down on a flat
surface, I measured a 1/8" gap at 2 o'clock, and 1/16" gap at 8 o'clock. As
a result there are large cracks in the black 'plastic' at all three
'spoke-to-rim' junctions on the front and back.
What's the difficulty level to repair/restore this wheel? How would I go
about doing this? I see that Eastman has a Steering Wheel Restoration Kit...
Anything to watch for?
Thanks,
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 19:29:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Pike's Peak info
First ignore all references to Idaho Springs, Mount Evans and I-70. Your
itinerary is nowhere near them.
Second nobody answered your question about route 24 with a tour through Aspen.
This is, personally, one of my favorite drives. The scenery is spectacular (much
more so than Monarch pass IMO). The road is perfect for sports cars with lots of
turning and climbing and descending along the flanks of Mount Elbert which is
the highest in CO. Independence Pass is one of the highest in the Rockies and if
you decide to go that way you may want to call ahead to make sure it's open.
>From Buena Vista you can also drop down to Poncha Springs and rejoin your route
but you will be adding some fairly mundane miles.
Have a good trip.
Bill Lawrence
OH YEAH! for those with a little extra time to burn, the MG Club in Denver is
holding their annual Glenwood Springs Rallye a couple of weeks before Tahoe.
This event which is the oldest continuously held sports car rallye in the
country is also celebrating 50 years this year. Any takers? I'll dig up their
website.
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> My wife Mary and I are travelling to Tahoe with the "Route 50 group". We are
> scheduled to overnight in Dodge City, KS, thence on to Canon City, CO. and
> from there Grand Junction, CO. My wife has family in Colorado Springs, CO.,
> just a bit north and short of Canon City and we were considering diverting
> from the route in Pueblo, overnighting in Colorado Springs rather than Canon
> City, heading up to and climbing Pike's Peak the next morning and catching up
> with the group in Grand Junction.
>
> Does anyone know what the road up to Pike's Peak is like? All things being
> equal is it suitable for our cars? And from there, what about route 24 west
> to Buena Vista and then highway 82 thru Aspen either up to I-70 or southwest
> thru Hotchkiss via 133--any problems with these roads or the passes in June?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 22:13:49 -0500
Subject: Fuel Guage
Thanks,
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 20:15:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Paint
I recommend you bead blast the manifold and then spray this stuff on liberally
(as I said it's cheap) and then wipe off any excess. Works like a charm and
looks like raw gray iron.
Bill Lawrence
"Scot K. Paulson" wrote:
> Gang,
>
> I'm looking for a good quality brush-on paint to cover my rather dingy
> looking exhaust manifolds in the engine compartment. I have looked in the
> archives and it only mentions the black bbq paint for the piping under the
> car and in the back.
> I have heard there is a blue/silver high temp paint that some use that has
> tiny stainless steel chips in it. What would be appropriate for the Healey
> and what prep work would be required on the typical rough and rusty
> manifold? What exact color were these exhaust manifolds when they left the
> factory? Thanks in advance.....
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 08:59:51 -0500
Subject: Radiators (NHC)
The replacement radiator was delivered Fir AM and was a perfect fit,
and I saved a pile of dough. Good people to deal with.
Jim D
60 BT7 2167
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From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 06:39:25 -0800
Subject: final ebrake installation
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 07:39:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 performance camshaft availability
Here are my notes from rebuild:
American Cam
2001 East Gladstone
Unit G Glendora
91740
Attention: Scott
$51.00 includes $6.oo for shipping
909-599-1225
Dean (M42 cam in BN7 - Happy)
> >
> >
> > > 25 years ago I had Ed Iskaderian in Los Angeles
> grind my
> > > stock cam to what he called a mild performance
> grind.
> > > Unfortunately I have no idea where the specs are
> for the
> > > cam.
> > > --
> > > Ira Erbs
> > > Digs-4 Solutions
Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:22:27 -0800
Subject: camshafts
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 10:23:17 -0600
Subject: One piece slave cylinder-throw out bearing unit
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 17:13:45 +0000
Subject: clutch assist
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 12:19:50 -0800
Subject: 2 questions
#2: Replaced my speedo cable while the transi cover was off but the speedo
still does not work. I tried my friends and that does'nt work either. It is
possible that the angle drive is bad. Can I elimainate the angle drive and go
directly in?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Oh, put the door seals on yesterday. The hardest part is going to keep the end
caps on. I am going to silicone them on. If not they will fly off immediatly.
I did'nt seem to need the snaps that they recommend at the other ends. What do
they do?
Thanks
GG BJ7
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 17:40:01 +0000
Subject: Re: clutch assist
- Chinese Proverb
>
> In a message dated 3/4/02 9:17:31, eyera3@attbi.com writes:
>
> << Listers,
> Along the lines of modifying our favorite car to ease
> into old age I have the following quirey:
> I have had 3 knee surgeries on my left knee and find
> that my knee hurts after driving my car for any amount
> of time. Has anyone devised/know of some sort of assist
> for easing the pressure it takes to engage the clutch? >>
>
> Maybe a bigger clutch master cylinder will do the trick.
>
> And an Ace bandage around the knee for a little support.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 12:55:14 -0500
Subject: Healey List
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:50:50 -0800
Subject: RE: clutch assist
Try http://www.tiltonracing.com/ for advice on some new combinations of
master and slave cylinders that might help. Also maybe a big spring
somewhere? I looked at some of the handicap sites for a clutch extender a
while back. They looked kind of suspect and unresponsive. They have some off
the shelf items to sell at exorbitant prices or sell you a whole handicap
conversion van!
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:14:53 -0500
Subject: RE: clutch assist
I would imagine that you could install a brake booster (servo unit) in
the clutch line that would considerably decrease the pedal pressure
required.
My daily driver is a Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has a massive
clutch to handle 320 HP and all wheel drive. It has a servo on the
clutch pedal and the clutch is as soft a butter.
We sell an aftermarket servo unit which I feel would be up to the job.
It has an output to input pressure ratio of 1.82 / 1.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of eyera3@attbi.com
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 12:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: clutch assist
Listers,
Along the lines of modifying our favorite car to ease
into old age I have the following quirey:
I have had 3 knee surgeries on my left knee and find
that my knee hurts after driving my car for any amount
of time. Has anyone devised/know of some sort of assist
for easing the pressure it takes to engage the clutch?
or boost the pressure to accomplish the same goal?
Thanks to all for just contemplating this...
--
Ira Erbs
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From "bc1" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 12:38:26 -0600
Subject: side exit exhaust
Brian Collins
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:05:19 -0500
Subject: RE: side exit exhaust
Steve
61 BN7
>I'm considering building a side exit exhaust for my BT7 using some glass
>packs. Has anyone done this and if so, can I get some feed back on noise
>levels and possibility of fumes in the passenger compartment. Also would
>like to get some input on length of glasspacks to use for a sound similar
to
>the original exhaust, perhaps a bit louder.
Brian Collins
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 11:23:05 -0800
Subject: Allen test equipment manuals
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From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:28:12 EST
Subject: Re: A-type OD pressure gauge?
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 07:46:20 +1100
Subject: Lucas 26D #40928 and #40830 distributors
Does anyone have any Lucas spare lists which may help me identify these Lucas
26D distributors:
40928A Oct 1963
40830A July 1963
They are not Healey - I suspect they are from a commercial vehicle. Any one
who has a Lucas list that identifies them can you please email me off list.
Thanks very much
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:11:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Clutch Assist
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:28:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: side exit exhaust
I eventually gave the tips to a friend, who would not
have it any other way. It is funny, but they are much
quieter on his car...
I wouldn't do it!
Dean BN7 (stock exhaust)
>
>
> >I'm considering building a side exit exhaust for my
> BT7 using some glass
> >packs. Has anyone done this and if so, can I get
> some feed back on noise
> >levels and possibility of fumes in the passenger
> compartment. Also would
> >like to get some input on length of glasspacks to
> use for a sound similar
> to
> >the original exhaust, perhaps a bit louder.
>
> Brian Collins
Yahoo! Sports - sign up for Fantasy Baseball
http://sports.yahoo.com
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From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 16:34:24 -0500
Subject: FW: pics of the shut plate ass.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:45:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Overdrive Unit
I prefer kerosene. Odor a bit more objectionable but it seems to better act
as a solvent.
Keith Pennell
> Also, what do people use to clean the insides of the unit? What about
paint
> thinner?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 14:22:45 +0000
Subject: Re: side exit exhaust
I've used glasspacks for decades. I use the longest available that can
fit in the space. I have found that the glas packs get louder and louder
and after a year or two they become quite throaty but nice under normal
acceleration and almost like straight pipes when under full power.
Watch the inside diameter - I went with either 1 3/4 or 1 1/2", can't
remember but the idea was to avoid some glass packs which muffle by
constricting the diameter down to an inch or so. This creates more back
pressure and can reduce performance and power a little.
My most recent glass packs were panatellas, that is, had a fatter
outside diameter than the standard somewhat skinny ones. I did this to
allow for more padding and sound deadening and for greater longevity.
Then to fit them in I ended up flattening the top and bottom by putting
the muffler on pavement and pounding with a big hammer on a flat board
on top of the muffler.
When finished their cross-section was no longer round but was oval. I
did this to increase ground clearance with the glasspacks installed.
Some people complain that side exhaust gets loud and annoying after a
while. You can always try it and if you ultimately don't like it you can
go to a good muffler shop and they can easily bend and install the two
tail pipes aft of the mufflers.
I have run a custom system with glasspacks and 1 3/4" bent pipe for
decades. Good sound, lasts forever. The last four feet I had 2" pipe
installed for looks and for a slightly more mellow sound. Good luck!
Best,
Rich
BT7
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:15:25 -0600
Subject: British Car Show, Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:38:14 -0600
Subject: Re-send of British Car Show, Hot Springs National Park,
Hi Listers, If anyone is inclined toward a laid-back weekend in beautiful
Hot Springs National Park, Arkansas the first weekend in May, then please
open the following attachment. We had 70 LBC beauties our first year (2001)
and we expect to top that number this time. We have invited MG racer Kent
Prather and S.U. guru Jim Taylor as our special guests. Folks, this is the
prime time of the year to visit Hot Springs and we hope to see many of you
fellow Healey and Spridget fans there.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
501-376-3633
jnbrashear@garverinc.com
THE SECOND ANNUAL
BRITS BY THE SHORE "ALL BRITISH" CAR SHOW
SPONSORED BY THE BRITISH MOTORING CLUB OF ARKANSAS (BMCA)
BENEFITING THE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY ASSOCIATION OF ARKANSAS
ALL PROCEEDS GO TO THE MDA - LAST YEAR WE WERE ABLE TO DONATE $4,700
HOT SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK, ARKANSAS
CLARION RESORT ON BEAUTIFUL LAKE HAMILTON
MAY 4, 2002
9:00 a.m. TILL 1:00 p.m.
BANQUET AND AWARDS SATURDAY EVENING IN THE CLARION BANQUET HALL, TOP FLOOR,
GLASS WALLS WITH A BREATHTAKING VIEW OF THE LAKE
LODGING AT THE CLARION RESORT ON THE LAKE
1-800-432-5145
22 CLASSES JUDGED BY PEOPLE'S CHOICE
ALSO, PEOPLE'S CHOICE BEST OF SHOW
INVITED SPECIAL GUESTS ARE
KENT PRATHER, A SERIOUSLY GO-FAST MG RACER FROM KANSAS, TO BE ON HAND WITH
HIS RACE CAR FOR A TECH SESSION AND CONVERSATION
AND
JIM TAYLOR, PREEMINENT S.U. CARBURETOR GURU FROM OKLAHOMA , TO BE ON HAND
FOR A TECH SESSION, CONVERSATION, AND CARB ADJUSTING
OTHER ACTIVITIES INCLUDE A FUN RUN IN OUR LBC BEAUTIES
OR A SLOW-POKE OUTING ON THE HOT SPRINGS BELLE EXCURSION BOAT
FOR INFORMATION CONTACT LEE COWLING AT
501-372-8182 OR EMAIL copperheadcables@alltel.net
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 15:29:46 -0800
Subject: Re: pics of the shut plate ass.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor@lmco.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 1:34 PM
Subject: FW: pics of the shut plate ass.
> > I just got my rear shroud back from a friend of mine that was trying to
> > repair the rust. Haven't tried to fit it yet,,
> > What I'm looking for is pictures of the door shut plate Ass. looking
down
> > from the top of the car with the shroud off.
> > I want to see what the ass. is suppose to look like where the 2 screws
on
> > each arm on the
> > rear shroud near the shut plate screw in. Also what the ass. pieces are
> > suppose to look like together. Mine was all gone from rust
> > and I've repaired it and I want to make sure it's correct before I try
to
> > put the rear shroud back on. Anybody out there
> > have there 100 -6 shroud off and can take pictures?? Thanks Todd (2
> > seater)
> > Maybe the whole shut plate top to bottom. You can e-mail direct since
> > this list doesn't pass attachments..or just give
> > me a link to a web site
> >
> > 1959 100-6 BN6
> > 1980 MGB Limited
> > 1996 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 20:52:16 -0800
Subject: heat shield
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 20:46:42 EST
Subject: Re: steering wheel repair
<<What to do with my 100 steering wheel?
>>
Brad,
With the amount of damage to this wheel, you'd probably be better off buying
one of the new reproductions. They're not too expensive and repaired wheels
have a tendency to re-crack.
Rick
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From "John and Becky Sawyer" <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 22:16:36 -0800
Subject: Fitting body panels
By the way, I carefully removed the door interior panel a few days ago,
peeled back the dust shield film. The door interior and mechanics are in
great shape. A yellow number 4 in marker chalk on the inside of the door skin
was a surprise made I guess 35- 36 years ago in Abington. Love the car and
the project.
John and Becky Sawyer
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 22:53:38 -0500
Subject: 100-M bonnet straps
Thanks,
Charley Braum
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:07:08 -0500
Subject: Re: side exit exhaust
Do not have any side exits but many moons ago had glasspacks on the BJ8,
rear exhaust on driver's side. They were fine, mellow, Healey sound for
maybe 4000 miles but things got louder. After 10000 or so too loud to be
comfortable with top down. Replaced the system with the Ansa system. It
too is aged and will soon need attention.
My recommendation is stay away from glasspacks. Stock mufflers provide that
sound which no other car has. Also, IMHO no side exit.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> I'm considering building a side exit exhaust for my BT7 using some glass
> packs. Has anyone done this and if so, can I get some feed back on noise
> levels and possibility of fumes in the passenger compartment. Also would
> like to get some input on length of glasspacks to use for a sound similar
to
> the original exhaust, perhaps a bit louder.
>
> Brian Collins
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:16:53 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Antiseptic Charley?
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:25:19 -0500
Subject: Re: heat shield
Yes Stephen. There is an asbestos shield which goes above the muffler. It
is approx 1/4 thick and (guessing)12 x 24. There are some excellent ceramic
look alike materials out there to use instead. Got mine from local boiler
supply house. The 2 ft x 4 ft piece was enough to make all the firewall
pieces and the muffler shield as well.
But I chose to make the muffler shield out of a sheet of Al and provide a
gap between it and the floor. It is also curved downward along each side
and at the front. My thinking being that today's vehicles use metal shields
around the muffler rather than another material, so why should I buck all
these automotive engineers? :)
Hope this helps
Keith Pennell
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:32:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end, again
Will you guys please cease the discussion about Michael Lempert's rear end.
Some people are sensitive about their rear ends! :)
Keith Pennell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 20:46:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: heat shield
All austin healeys are fitted with asbestos sheets
between the floorboards, footwell, & firewall facing
the exaust system. If your healey does not have this
asbestos sheeting, I'd highly suggest getting it.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net> wrote:
> Hi, Is there a heat shield that goes in between the
> muffler and the chassie. Not to sure what to expect
> with summer heat and everbodys comments on the heat
> these cars can make Thanks Stephen
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 23:52:36 -0500
Subject: Re: final ebrake installation
Just did this about a month ago on friend's BJ7.
It sounds like you need to disconnect the back end of the cable from the
swivel. The cable attachment must be made at the front first. Getting the
5/16 clevis pin and its cotter pin in there is not too easy even with a
slack cable.
Then go to the rear. The fork should have about 1 1/2 inch of thread
showing in front of it. You then have to twist the balance lever very hard
to get the hole in its arm to line up with the hole in the fork so that the
clevis pin may be inserted. Don't forget the oil soaked felt washers
everywhere back there.
Then see if you get full ebraking with the lever pulled about half way up.
If not, then disconnect the balance lever from the fork and screw the fork
fore or aft as needed. Reconnect balance lever to fork. Check again.
Install cotter pin in clevis pin when all is OK.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 21:05:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: clutch assist
There really are two things to consider here:
#1 - your hoses may be gunked up... try replacing the
slave cylinder hose and see if that improves the
clutch action.
#2 - If I recall correctly, you have either a 100-6 or
a Mk I. These healeys have a traditional spring
clutch which is significantly heavier to depress than
the diaphram clutch on later healeys. Get yourself a
diaphram clutch set up from a BJ7 or BJ8 and it will
be much more civilized - there is no modifications
necessary to mount these up other than changing around
the mounting pins on the flywheel (any clutch shop can
do this for you for next to nothing).
#3- I wouldn't set up a servo as one lister
suggested... as this would take up space, be complex,
and be very far from original.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> Listers,
> Along the lines of modifying our favorite car to
> ease
> into old age I have the following quirey:
> I have had 3 knee surgeries on my left knee and find
>
> that my knee hurts after driving my car for any
> amount
> of time. Has anyone devised/know of some sort of
> assist
> for easing the pressure it takes to engage the
> clutch?
> or boost the pressure to accomplish the same goal?
> Thanks to all for just contemplating this...
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 21:44:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end, again
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Will you guys please cease the discussion about Michael Lempert's rear end.
> Some people are sensitive about their rear ends! :)
>
> Keith Pennell
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 00:05:19 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: AH100 tool kit lead hammer
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02@snet.net>
Subject: AH100 tool kit lead hammer
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:45:08 -0500
A lead hammer was included in the tool kit of the AH100 chassis numbers
159257 - 229652.
This chassis number range includes a majority of BN1 series cars as well as
early BN2s.
Roger Moment of Colorado seems to have the only known hammer of the 10,000+
tool kits.
Has anyone seen/have/photgraphed the one of the original lead knock off
hammers ?
Thank You,
Alan Alfano
AH100M
------- End of forwarded message -------
From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 04:01:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Forwarded: AH100 tool kit lead hammer
List Administration wrote:
> For some reason this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
> Reply to author, not me.
>
> mjb.
> ----
>
> ------- Start of forwarded message -------
> From: "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02@snet.net>
> Subject: AH100 tool kit lead hammer
> Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:45:08 -0500
>
> A lead hammer was included in the tool kit of the AH100 chassis numbers
> 159257 - 229652.
> This chassis number range includes a majority of BN1 series cars as well as
> early BN2s.
>
> Roger Moment of Colorado seems to have the only known hammer of the 10,000+
> tool kits.
>
> Has anyone seen/have/photgraphed the one of the original lead knock off
> hammers ?
>
> Thank You,
> Alan Alfano
> AH100M
> ------- End of forwarded message -------
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:18:54 +1100
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Most motor racing safety rules have always required that : (paraphrased from
memory):
..."the bonnet (hood) shall be firmly located by two independently operated
devices of limited extensibility"
or words to this effect. So an 'octopus' or 'bunjee' strap has never been
accepted because they stretch - but a leather belt always has been accepted
because it doesn't stretch.
So - a leather strap became 'de rigueue' in pre 1965 motor racing - as the
secondary bonnet locating device - supplementing the existing standard
bonnet latch mechanism -
i.e. it was to stop the bonnet (hood) flying open & smacking the driver on
the top of the head and subsequently impairing his vision etc if the bonnet
wasn't closed properly on the factory latch.
There has always been an arguement with scrutineers over whether front
hinged bonnets (hoods) - like a 100 - should actually require a secondary
bonnet locating device. This is because front hinged bonnets (hoods) would
blow closed at high speed - not open.
Of course - they have to still comply - the same problem still exists -
except that it would occur under heavy braking.... but at least you won't
get smacked in the head. : )
So - thats why 100Ms & 100S's had a strap - derived from racing/safety. A
leather 'belt' right across the bonnet. Works rally 3000's etc have small
straps at the front edge bonnet (hood) corners to the shroud.
I've got a single leather strap from under the '3000 MK III" badge to the
underside of the grille surround (so the holes are unseen).
I seem to remember reading in one of Geoff Healeys books that the leather
100M strap was the most profitable component of the Le Mans add on Kit!
If you look in all the Healey books at pics - they ran with a 3 piece belt -
strap in centre - buckle ends on shrouds.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 06:24:30 EST
Subject: Re: heat shield
> Is there a heat shield that goes in between the muffler
The name of the stuff I used--both under the car between the muffler and the
floor and under the carpet as well--is DYNOMAT. Since it is thin I also was
able to put it on the underside of the transmission tunnel as well. It is
used inside of speaker enclosures, and comes in sheets about 2' x 3',
adhesive--backed. It is expensive but very effective and does not
deteriorate as the fiberglass/foil products do. Get it at a sound store or
COSTCO.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 06:39:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Inner body partial panels for BJ8
Also, the outriggers are rusted at the ends where they
would be welded to the inner sills. Would the best
course of action be to replace the outriggers
entirely or just rebuild the ends.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Wood
67 BJ8
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 07:01:02 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Charley,
>
> Most motor racing safety rules have always required that : (paraphrased from
> memory):
>
> ..."the bonnet (hood) shall be firmly located by two independently operated
> devices of limited extensibility"
>
> or words to this effect. So an 'octopus' or 'bunjee' strap has never been
> accepted because they stretch - but a leather belt always has been accepted
> because it doesn't stretch.
>
> So - a leather strap became 'de rigueue' in pre 1965 motor racing - as the
> secondary bonnet locating device - supplementing the existing standard
> bonnet latch mechanism -
>
> i.e. it was to stop the bonnet (hood) flying open & smacking the driver on
> the top of the head and subsequently impairing his vision etc if the bonnet
> wasn't closed properly on the factory latch.
>
> There has always been an arguement with scrutineers over whether front
> hinged bonnets (hoods) - like a 100 - should actually require a secondary
> bonnet locating device. This is because front hinged bonnets (hoods) would
> blow closed at high speed - not open.
>
> Of course - they have to still comply - the same problem still exists -
> except that it would occur under heavy braking.... but at least you won't
> get smacked in the head. : )
>
> So - thats why 100Ms & 100S's had a strap - derived from racing/safety. A
> leather 'belt' right across the bonnet. Works rally 3000's etc have small
> straps at the front edge bonnet (hood) corners to the shroud.
>
> I've got a single leather strap from under the '3000 MK III" badge to the
> underside of the grille surround (so the holes are unseen).
>
> I seem to remember reading in one of Geoff Healeys books that the leather
> 100M strap was the most profitable component of the Le Mans add on Kit!
>
> If you look in all the Healey books at pics - they ran with a 3 piece belt -
> strap in centre - buckle ends on shrouds.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
> > Please comment on the history of the bonnet straps on the 'M's. I've
> > heard: that they were to facilitate entry into the engine compartment for
> > racers, and I've heard that's bunk; most of the 'M's had straps 'and'
> latches,
> > and most did not; those with 'factory' straps had the latches removed, or
> they
> > did not. ???
> > If there was/is a reason for the straps, please enlighten me, even if
> the
> > purpose was simply (astectick), (asticick), (astetcick), (ascetic),
> > (asceptic), you know, just for looks.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 07:39:12 -0800
Subject: Fw: Ratio Adapter
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Workman" <usimail@earthlink.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: Ratio Adapter
> Hello Bob,
> Thank you for writing. I apologize for the dealy in getting back to
> you. The Austin-Healey cannot use an inline ratio adapter. The speedometer
> needs to be rebuilt to a different ratio. You would need to do a 52 feet 9
> 1/2 inch test. This can be found on our web page at www.speedometershop.com
> You would disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer. Put some
> type of marker or flag on the cable and roll the Austin-Healey 52 feet 9
> 1/2 inches, counting the cable turns. You are looking for exactly 10 turns.
> Anything more or less and you need the speedometer rebuilt. We would need
> to know the number of full turns and partial turns.
>
> Please give our service department a call at 1-800-877-4798 or
> 909-684-0292. Ask for Carl. Carl can better answer all your questions. We
> are open Mon. - Fri., 8 to 5, with the service dept. at lunch from
> 11:30-12:30.
>
> You may ship to us via U.P.S. (or another reliable source) to:
>
> UNITED SPEEDOMETER SERVICE
> 2431 UNIVERSITY AVENUE
> RIVERSIDE CA 92507-4265
>
> Please include your name, address, and telephone number(s) inside the
> package, and perhaps a brief note about what you have sent (i.e. year, make,
> model), or what you wish to have done.
>
> Bob, thanks again for your interest and give Carl a call.
>
> Best Regards,
> Richard Workman, Sec.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: <usimail@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 9:11 PM
> Subject: Ratio Adapter
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I need a ratio adapter to effect a 10% reduction in cable speed.
> > I would like for the adapter to attach to the back of the speedometer.
> >
> > The car is a 1967 Austin-Healey 3000. Over two hundred owners
> > bought new rearends for their cars (change a 3.9 to a 3.5), if this
> > adapter is feasible I will pass the info on to the other owners.
> >
> > Please reply with availability and pricing.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> > *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > *****************************************************
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:01:27 -0500
Subject: IMHO
Read on today that uses"IMHO". Seen this many time before, but have never put
it together. What I get is "I------- M------- Healey Owner. Maybe there is a
source for these? Most of the time not being able to decode these acronyms is
not detrimental to understanding the thread and profiting just the same.
Ken
BJ7 in work
--
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:31:55 -0500
Subject: Re: IMHO
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <MeditionM@netscape.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 1:01 PM
Subject: IMHO
> Gosh, I hope I am not the only person reviewing these postings that at
times can not piece together acronyms used. For example, I understand that
"PO" is previous owner. Pretty good ehh!
>
> Read on today that uses"IMHO". Seen this many time before, but have never
put it together. What I get is "I------- M------- Healey Owner. Maybe
there is a source for these? Most of the time not being able to decode
these acronyms is not detrimental to understanding the thread and profiting
just the same.
>
> Ken
> BJ7 in work
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:48:26 -0500
Subject: IMHO again
Thanks for all of the responses.
Ken
BTW, I read nearly a dozen responses to my posting before my original email
showed up on my inbox listings. Maybe electrons flow quicker in different
areas?
--
__________________________________________________________________
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the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:48:56 EST
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
<< Please comment on the history of the bonnet straps on the 'M's. I've
heard: that they were to facilitate entry into the engine compartment for
racers, and I've heard that's bunk; most of the 'M's had straps 'and' latches,
and most did not; those with 'factory' straps had the latches removed, or they
did not. ??? >>
My understanding -- wasn't there and don't have written documentation, so
this isn't 100% reliable, but -- is that Le Mans required a "positive
external fastener" on bonnets to assure that there was no chance they would
open at speed (think of the fun and games if someone's bonnet blew back just
as they were starting to brake from top speed and set up for Mulsanne Corner
while dicing for the corner with one or two other cars!). For the 100s,
Healey Motor Works chose to use a single strap across the bonnet, similar to
what Jaguar and Morgan were doing.
A fine picture of one of the original 1953 Le Mans cars (NOJ331) with Donald
and Leonard Lord in the car at Gaydon airfield) with aeroscreen windshield,
long-distance driving lights and bonnet strap but interestingly without any
bonnet louvers is shown on page 50 of Geoff's book <Austin Healey The Story
of the Big Healeys>.
For trivia fun, according to Gerry Coker the straps were made up by a horse
harness maker in Warwick.
Cheers
Gary
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:03:44 -0500
Subject: Re: IMHO
You're right in this case, though in net-speak PO means something else.
GM
----- Original Message -----
For example, I understand that "PO" is previous owner.
Maybe there is a source for these?
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:08:39 -0500
Subject: Re: IMHO
Jim
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From N0040 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:12:05 EST
Subject: Re: IMHO
For all the common 18,500 or so, acronyms... please see the attached site and
fill in the little box in the upper corner.
http://www.ucc.ie/cgi-bin/acronym
I printed a list for all the "Smiley" ;-}... :-D... references also, but
can't remember where I got them, I have CRS disease. I think it was from a
version of AOL.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:13:51 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
----- Original Message -----
From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 12:48 PM
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
> In a message dated 3/4/02 7:41:59 PM, cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
>
> << Please comment on the history of the bonnet straps on the 'M's.
I've
> heard: that they were to facilitate entry into the engine compartment for
> racers, and I've heard that's bunk; most of the 'M's had straps 'and'
latches,
> and most did not; those with 'factory' straps had the latches removed, or
they
> did not. ??? >>
>
> My understanding -- wasn't there and don't have written documentation, so
> this isn't 100% reliable, but -- is that Le Mans required a "positive
> external fastener" on bonnets to assure that there was no chance they
would
> open at speed (think of the fun and games if someone's bonnet blew back
just
> as they were starting to brake from top speed and set up for Mulsanne
Corner
> while dicing for the corner with one or two other cars!). For the 100s,
> Healey Motor Works chose to use a single strap across the bonnet, similar
to
> what Jaguar and Morgan were doing.
> A fine picture of one of the original 1953 Le Mans cars (NOJ331) with
Donald
> and Leonard Lord in the car at Gaydon airfield) with aeroscreen
windshield,
> long-distance driving lights and bonnet strap but interestingly without
any
> bonnet louvers is shown on page 50 of Geoff's book <Austin Healey The
Story
> of the Big Healeys>.
> For trivia fun, according to Gerry Coker the straps were made up by a
horse
> harness maker in Warwick.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:18:13 -0500
Subject: Re: IMHO
Jim
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:22:05 -0500
Subject: RE: IMHO
IMHO = In My Humble Opinion. Permutations: IMNSHO = In My Not-So-Humble
Opinion; IMAO = In My Arrogant Opinion. This is an Internet acronym, not a
Healey-ism!
A resource I found for other acronyms is at:
http://www.apc.net/ia/scrmaim.htm; there are many such pages around, FWIW!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of MeditionM@netscape.net
Sent: March 5, 2002 1:01 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: IMHO
Gosh, I hope I am not the only person reviewing these postings that at times
can not piece together acronyms used. For example, I understand that "PO"
is previous owner. Pretty good ehh!
Read on today that uses"IMHO". Seen this many time before, but have never
put it together. What I get is "I------- M------- Healey Owner. Maybe
there is a source for these? Most of the time not being able to decode
these acronyms is not detrimental to understanding the thread and profiting
just the same.
Ken
BJ7 in work
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:29:25 -0000
Subject: Rear seal BN1 crankshaft
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:32:14 EST
Subject: Re: IMHO
<< In My Humble Opinion. Sometimes used by someone who is NOT humble)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ >>
Unless of course, it's one of those "infuriatingly myopic Healey owners" we
sometimes get on the list.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:43:24 EST
Subject: Re: Rear seal BN1 crankshaft
<< To the list
1-Can one fit the rear crank seal conversion kit removing only the gear box?
2-How does the original seal work? Can it be replaced? Again do I need to
remove the engine to replace it?
Sorry to ask so many questions but I don't want to make the same mistake
twice.
Thanks
Manuel Sanchez >>
My understanding is that the usual after-market seals can not be fitted on
the four-cylinder engines without removing the engine, because some machining
is required.
The original seals were of the form called a "reverse Archimedes screw seal"
-- named after Archimedes who invented a water pump using a screw system, if
it matters -- they work by allowing some oil to flow into the area (there's
actually by machining standards a fairly large clearance) between the drive
shaft and the rear wall of the block to provide lubrication, but a
screw-style groove is machined into the drive shaft at that point so that oil
is thrown back into the sump.
However, from painful personal experience, should the rear main bearing start
to wear, the drive shaft will start to spin in an eccentric fashion,
gradually grinding open the clearance to the point where the screw is no
longer sufficient to toss back all the oil, and it starts to flow into the
bell housing. This can start happening over time, and you'll start to see oil
dripping constantly from the cotter pin in the opening in the bottom of the
bell housing.
However, when the car is being driven hard for several days, things can go
from bad to worse rapidly. The clue that this is happening is a catastrophic
loss of oil pressure accompanied by a lovely trail of large oil drops behind
the car (happened to me outside a little town in southern Colorado on the
wrong side of the Continental divide from our destination in Breckinridge.)
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 13:47:23 -0600
Subject: Colloquial and Regional Expressions (no LBC)
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From ThatGuyx at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:32:55 EST
Subject: RE: Jule Frame (And other aftermarket Healey frames)
What is the value or advantage in terms of strength, reliability,
compatability, aestectics, etc.
I've heard it said from one camp that it (the Jule frame) addresses the
"banana sag" problem which is common in Healeys, while another camp says that
regardless if you have a new manufactured frame or simply try and work with
the origianl frame - "because of the weight of the engine & tranny and their
position in relation to the rest of the car - "bowing" is just a natural and
unavoidable nuisance that an owner cannot escape. Besides that, not a lot of
Healey mechanics have worked with or bothered with such a task.
We live in pretty technical days....I'm wondering if any other companies or
small hobbyists out there have manufactured (or are developing) a frame that
addresses the traditional shortcomings of the chassis and or still manages to
retain the look of the origianl?
Also, has anyone ever compiled a list of "new" modifications, products or
refinements to older components that have been put on the market for the Big
Healey?
Thanks
Chris
100-6, in negotiations
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:10:34 -0600
Subject: FLA
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 15:19:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Colloquial and Regional Expressions (no LBC)
GM
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 15:24:14 EST
Subject: Re: Rear seal BN1 crankshaft
**************************
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can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 14:37:40 -0600
Subject: Jule Frame (And other aftermarket Healey frames)
I believe in the Jule frame. It strengthens the chassis the way it should
have been from the factory. The draw backs are:
1. Adds 100 to 125 pounds to the weight of the car IMHO (Jule disagrees,
quotes smaller number);
2. Not accepted by concours i.e. deduction of points.
Positives:
Car does not sag;
Car is more stable;
Reduces or eliminates cowl shake;
The suspension does the flexing instead of the chassis
Jule frame is made from .125 wall square tubing. Original chassis is .055
wall welded up C-sections.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 12:40:37 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Brian
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
"Wm. Severin Thompson" wrote:
> Geoff told some stories about the the harness maker...I believe his name was
> Mr. Badger. I can't remember the stories, but Geoff sure got a kick out of
> the guy's name...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 12:48 PM
> Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
>
> > In a message dated 3/4/02 7:41:59 PM, cbaustin@sgi.net writes:
> >
> > << Please comment on the history of the bonnet straps on the 'M's.
> I've
> > heard: that they were to facilitate entry into the engine compartment for
> > racers, and I've heard that's bunk; most of the 'M's had straps 'and'
> latches,
> > and most did not; those with 'factory' straps had the latches removed, or
> they
> > did not. ??? >>
> >
> > My understanding -- wasn't there and don't have written documentation, so
> > this isn't 100% reliable, but -- is that Le Mans required a "positive
> > external fastener" on bonnets to assure that there was no chance they
> would
> > open at speed (think of the fun and games if someone's bonnet blew back
> just
> > as they were starting to brake from top speed and set up for Mulsanne
> Corner
> > while dicing for the corner with one or two other cars!). For the 100s,
> > Healey Motor Works chose to use a single strap across the bonnet, similar
> to
> > what Jaguar and Morgan were doing.
> > A fine picture of one of the original 1953 Le Mans cars (NOJ331) with
> Donald
> > and Leonard Lord in the car at Gaydon airfield) with aeroscreen
> windshield,
> > long-distance driving lights and bonnet strap but interestingly without
> any
> > bonnet louvers is shown on page 50 of Geoff's book <Austin Healey The
> Story
> > of the Big Healeys>.
> > For trivia fun, according to Gerry Coker the straps were made up by a
> horse
> > harness maker in Warwick.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Gary
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:22:59 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Actually, I believe the harness maker's name was Fredrick Freer, a local
fellow at Warwick.
Now for a further question.....Does anybody know who may have produced the
leather hold down straps for the spare wheel on the Hundred?
We have found in working on Blair Harber's preproduction cars, and the first
Longbridge production car (138031, body 24) that there was one very short
piece of strap with roll buckle looped around and sewn captively onto the
tire hold down iron, and another, again with roll buckle sewn to the chromed
loop screwed to the vertical bulkhead. Then there was a seperate strap with
the holes punched into it at either end which joined the two. All these bits
appear to have been black, including the leather bits and the buckle
assemblies.
Interesting little items of Healey archaeology! Gotta be having more fun
than is legal!
Rich Chrysler
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 16:27:39 EST
Subject: Re: Jule Frame (And other aftermarket Healey frames)
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Tongue firmly in cheek
Pretty big fellow myself
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 15:44:06 -0600
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
To: "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson@thicko.com>; <Editorgary@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
>
>
> > Geoff told some stories about the the harness maker...I believe his name
> was
> > Mr. Badger. I can't remember the stories, but Geoff sure got a kick out
of
> > the guy's name...
>
> Actually, I believe the harness maker's name was Fredrick Freer, a local
> fellow at Warwick.
>
> Now for a further question.....Does anybody know who may have produced the
> leather hold down straps for the spare wheel on the Hundred?
> We have found in working on Blair Harber's preproduction cars, and the
first
> Longbridge production car (138031, body 24) that there was one very short
> piece of strap with roll buckle looped around and sewn captively onto the
> tire hold down iron, and another, again with roll buckle sewn to the
chromed
> loop screwed to the vertical bulkhead. Then there was a seperate strap
with
> the holes punched into it at either end which joined the two. All these
bits
> appear to have been black, including the leather bits and the buckle
> assemblies.
> Interesting little items of Healey archaeology! Gotta be having more fun
> than is legal!
> Rich Chrysler
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 13:47:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Ratio Adapter
Perhaps the reason the ratio adapter "cannot be used" is that this company
does not make them. They really ought to know better than to assume people
won't figure out what they are up to. What, are we stupid?
Think about it: all a ratio adapter does is change the rate of revolution of
the speedometer cable. One number of RPMs goes into the adapter, and a
different number of RPMs comes out. Could be higher than the input, could be
lower, but there is nothing complicated, nothing mysterious. I would ask
them what it is about an Austin-Healey that makes it different from any
other car with a mechanically driven speedometer. My guess is they'll
stumble over that question.
As long as there is room for the ratio adapter (and it can go anywhere along
the length of the cable), there is no reason to rebuild the instrument.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
with a ratio adapter that works just fine, thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Fw: Ratio Adapter
> A different story from United Speedometer (see below)
>
> Bob
> *****************************************************
> Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> *****************************************************
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Workman" <usimail@earthlink.net>
> To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 7:20 AM
> Subject: Re: Ratio Adapter
>
>
> > Hello Bob,
> > Thank you for writing. I apologize for the dealy in getting back to
> > you. The Austin-Healey cannot use an inline ratio adapter. The
speedometer
> > needs to be rebuilt to a different ratio. You would need to do a 52
feet 9
> > 1/2 inch test. This can be found on our web page at
www.speedometershop.com
> > You would disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer. Put
some
> > type of marker or flag on the cable and roll the Austin-Healey 52 feet
9
> > 1/2 inches, counting the cable turns. You are looking for exactly 10
turns.
> > Anything more or less and you need the speedometer rebuilt. We would
need
> > to know the number of full turns and partial turns.
> >
> > Please give our service department a call at 1-800-877-4798 or
> > 909-684-0292. Ask for Carl. Carl can better answer all your questions.
We
> > are open Mon. - Fri., 8 to 5, with the service dept. at lunch from
> > 11:30-12:30.
> >
> > You may ship to us via U.P.S. (or another reliable source) to:
> >
> > UNITED SPEEDOMETER SERVICE
> > 2431 UNIVERSITY AVENUE
> > RIVERSIDE CA 92507-4265
> >
> > Please include your name, address, and telephone number(s) inside
the
> > package, and perhaps a brief note about what you have sent (i.e. year,
make,
> > model), or what you wish to have done.
> >
> > Bob, thanks again for your interest and give Carl a call.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > Richard Workman, Sec.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> > To: <usimail@earthlink.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 9:11 PM
> > Subject: Ratio Adapter
> >
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I need a ratio adapter to effect a 10% reduction in cable speed.
> > > I would like for the adapter to attach to the back of the speedometer.
> > >
> > > The car is a 1967 Austin-Healey 3000. Over two hundred owners
> > > bought new rearends for their cars (change a 3.9 to a 3.5), if this
> > > adapter is feasible I will pass the info on to the other owners.
> > >
> > > Please reply with availability and pricing.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Bob
> > > *****************************************************
> > > Bob Spidell
> > bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > > San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
> > > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > > *****************************************************
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 17:55:01 EST
Subject: Re: Jule Frame (And other aftermarket Healey frames)
No truer words have been spoken especially by John
Jerry Anderson
BN4
JH-5
Greensboro,NC
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 17:25:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end, again
Keith Pennell wrote:
>>Rich:
>>
>>I drove the car about 100 miles today through the Santa Monica mountains
>>
>and down
>
>>PCH. I used ALL the gears.
>>The 3.54 rear end gearing seems to make everything very nice and quiet. I
>>
>did not
>
>>have any feeling of loss of low end power but I have not been a stop
>>
>light Grand
>
>>Prix racer for many many years.
>>So all in all my impression is that this is truly a good thing.
>>Ron Rader
>>
>
>Will you guys please cease the discussion about Michael Lempert's rear end.
>Some people are sensitive about their rear ends! :)
>
>Keith Pennell
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:07:19 -0500
Subject: Anyone looking for a 3000 short block straight out of the
Saw this on Ebay. Was going to bid on it till it just reached
$3000.
Mike B
------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 SHORT BLOCK NOS!!!!!!!!!!!
WILL SHIP TO U.S ONLY!!!!
THIS IS AN AUCTION FOR A COMPLETE FACTORY SHORT BLOCK.IN THE BMC
BOX.STILL COSMOLINE COVERED AND HAS BEEN KEPT IN DRY STORAGE SINCE THE
60'S.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1809011390
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:13:55 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Keith Pennell
> Of course - they have to still comply - the same problem still exists -
> except that it would occur under heavy braking.... but at least you won't
> get smacked in the head. : )
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
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From Cary Alexander <caryalx at surfbest.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 16:37:12 -0800
Subject: MORE BONNET LATCH DILEMNA-MK1
Here's the update from my bonnet latch fiasco. Thanks to those of you who
emailed me with very good suggestions. Let me start out by saying that I am
not mechanically inclined when it comes to automobiles. My father never
taught me that stuff. In hindsight now I wish that he had.
Basically, none of the suggestions worked. The ring pull is gone and I do
not think that I can trace it to anywhere to repair it nor do I want to
invest in that amount of time.
I am looking to get the hood open to see what might (needs) to be done so it
will run, as my father hadn't driven it very often since breaking both his
hips a while back, and then put it up for sale. This is a California car
that has always been garaged, and still has it's ORIGINAL interior.
So far I have:
Pulled on the left side plate (the one with the spring-like cable
attached) and it moved 4 cm's.
Tried again using a pliers--it did not move any more.
Took a HUGE screw-driver and stuck one end of it into the "hole" where
the spring-like cable is attached and tried to move it more by hitting the
screwdriver with a hammer. No luck.
Took the grill off (please don't email me saying how bad it is to remove
the grill--it's already been done.)
Tried to remove the two nuts that hold the plate "around" the pin latch.
Rusted shut. WD-40 and de-greaser/de-ruster not effective.
Does anyone have any other failsafe suggestions as to why this hood will not
release? I called a restoration place and the man told me that if the hood
is slightly out of alignment it could cause this problem. But please don't
email me just to say that he was right.
I'm looking for a) a really good suggestion or b) a recommendation of a good
British Car Restoration garage in the Los Angeles County area. I think
there is a guy on this list who lives in Agoura, Ca? That's not too far
away from me if I could speak with him privately.
I know from reading your emails that you guys know EVERYTHING about your
Healeys, so somebody has to have a new idea that will work.
Please email me as soon as you can.
C. Alexander
'60 3000 MK1-BJ7
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 20:35:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Anyone looking for a 3000 short block straight out of the
I've gotta get a life.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 8:07 PM
Subject: Anyone looking for a 3000 short block straight out of the crate?
> Guys,
>
> Saw this on Ebay. Was going to bid on it till it just reached
> $3000.
>
> Mike B
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>
> AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 SHORT BLOCK NOS!!!!!!!!!!!
> WILL SHIP TO U.S ONLY!!!!
>
> THIS IS AN AUCTION FOR A COMPLETE FACTORY SHORT BLOCK.IN THE BMC
> BOX.STILL COSMOLINE COVERED AND HAS BEEN KEPT IN DRY STORAGE SINCE THE
> 60'S.
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 20:43:29 -0500
Subject: Jule Frame
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From jbpate at attglobal.net
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 20:59:52 -0500
Subject: MotoLita Steering Wheel
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 18:18:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Side Exit Exhaust
I replaced the side exhaust with two glass packs running through the
original rear pipes. Kinda quiet at first . . . but got progressively
noisier and raspy sounding. I splurged and bought a new stock exhaust
years ago and it sounds like a Healey now.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:20:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: MORE BONNET LATCH DILEMNA-MK1
Dean 1960 3000 BN7
I think
> there is a guy on this list who lives in Agoura, Ca?
> That's not too far
> away from me if I could speak with him privately.
> Please email me as soon as you can.
>
> C. Alexander
> '60 3000 MK1-BJ7
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 19:24:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Anyone looking for a 3000 short block straight out of the
> THIS IS AN AUCTION FOR A COMPLETE FACTORY SHORT
> BLOCK.IN THE BMC
> BOX.STILL COSMOLINE COVERED AND HAS BEEN KEPT IN DRY
> STORAGE SINCE THE
> 60'S.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1809011390
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 20:30:46 -0800
Subject: Ratio Adapter
Sorry - have to disagree with United Speedometer. Just installed a ratio
adapter on our MGB - early overdrive in a late Canadian spec. car with a KPH
speedometer. The cost was less than doing it any other way, plus we have
the advantage of leaving the speedometer as original, a big factor if it
ever has to be changed or repaired.
On the MG, we had to locate the ratio adapter between 2 cables, about a foot
in front of the angle drive - there is absolutely no room at the angle drive
in an overdrive 'B'! We used a shorter cable from the adaptor to the
speedo. The whole lash-up works perfectly.
The adaptor is a little gearbox with an intermediate gearset (so the cable
winds up rotating in the same direction!). The instrument shop simply
selected the gears in order to get the cable speed to exactly what was
needed to get the speedo accurate. This was done from the info that I
suppled re: rear end ratio, tire size, etc.
The only problem may be getting the correct Smiths cable ferrules and
rings - we used them from and old cable - it was easier than tracking down
the new parts.
I was prepared to do exactly the same operation on my BJ8 - Smitty / Toyota
5-speed, but when I installed an original 3:545 diff, by a happy
co-incidence, the speedo is all but perfect without an adaptor! I would
guess that depends on the speedo output gearing on the trans - mine is from
a '92 2WD pickup.
I figure that a ratio adapter, if needed on a Healey, should be able to go
right onto the angle drive, whether it's an original gearbox, or a Toyota -
there's lots of room.
I should mention that a friend had to do the same thing on a Sprite
recently - he had changed the diff ratio. Worked perfectly in that case
too.
If needed, I could find out the particulars of the ratio adapter that we
used from the shop that did the job.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Fw: Ratio Adapter
A different story from United Speedometer (see below)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Workman" <usimail@earthlink.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: Ratio Adapter
> Hello Bob,
> Thank you for writing. I apologize for the dealy in getting back to
> you. The Austin-Healey cannot use an inline ratio adapter. The
speedometer
> needs to be rebuilt to a different ratio. You would need to do a 52 feet
9
> 1/2 inch test. This can be found on our web page at
www.speedometershop.com
> You would disconnect the speedometer cable from the speedometer. Put some
> type of marker or flag on the cable and roll the Austin-Healey 52 feet 9
> 1/2 inches, counting the cable turns. You are looking for exactly 10
turns.
> Anything more or less and you need the speedometer rebuilt. We would need
> to know the number of full turns and partial turns.
>
> Please give our service department a call at 1-800-877-4798 or
> 909-684-0292. Ask for Carl. Carl can better answer all your questions.
We
> are open Mon. - Fri., 8 to 5, with the service dept. at lunch from
> 11:30-12:30.
>
> You may ship to us via U.P.S. (or another reliable source) to:
>
> UNITED SPEEDOMETER SERVICE
> 2431 UNIVERSITY AVENUE
> RIVERSIDE CA 92507-4265
>
> Please include your name, address, and telephone number(s) inside the
> package, and perhaps a brief note about what you have sent (i.e. year,
make,
> model), or what you wish to have done.
>
> Bob, thanks again for your interest and give Carl a call.
>
> Best Regards,
> Richard Workman, Sec.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
> To: <usimail@earthlink.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 9:11 PM
> Subject: Ratio Adapter
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I need a ratio adapter to effect a 10% reduction in cable speed.
> > I would like for the adapter to attach to the back of the speedometer.
> >
> > The car is a 1967 Austin-Healey 3000. Over two hundred owners
> > bought new rearends for their cars (change a 3.9 to a 3.5), if this
> > adapter is feasible I will pass the info on to the other owners.
> >
> > Please reply with availability and pricing.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> > *****************************************************
> > Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> > San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
> > `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
> > *****************************************************
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 23:33:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Anyone looking for a 3000 short block straight out of the
Noting the MG insignia on the box wrappings on the e-Bay item, could
this have been produced from the MGC line?
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From mdlempert at comcast.net
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 00:09:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end
I'll have you all know that my own, and original "Lempert" rear end is
doing just fine. It's been in gear now for 50 years, although it doesn't
spend nearly as much time in overdrive. It functions reasonably well,
however, on the down side, there have been more frequent and louder
noises coming from it than in previous years.
Regards,
Mike L.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 02:23:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: John Harper.... Re: driving lights
Thanks for that. I'm dissapointed with myself not
having even considered that!
Still, after some thought, the battery lead is the
car's most direct connection to clean, stable power.
I would think routing through the control box will add
some resistance & variance to the set up, correct?
I'll rewire mine accordingly to your comment -
thankfully I only have one wire to move as that one
hot lead is routed into a six blade auxiliary fuse box
for all my goodies!
Take it easy & thanks for the education -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Alan
>
> Just a small and maybe somewhat acedemic point but
> all loads on the
> battery and dynamo system should go via the control
> box. That is,
> connected to the A1 connection. This will route the
> extra current
> through the control box series coil. This will in
> turn increase the
> dynamo output to compensate for the extra load. If
> taken directly from
> the battery the control box will not "know" that
> more charge is required
> until the battery has discharged a little.
>
> I agree an extra fuse should be added
>
> All the best
>
>
> >Bill -
> >
> >For those lights, you should run a relay with power
> >drawn straight from the hot battery lead on the
> >solenoid. I use 15 amp blade fuses and they work
> very
> >well. My BJ8 has Flamethrowers on it, individually
> >switched like the way you want to set it up... FYI
> >
> >Alan
> >
> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> >--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
> >> Installing two Lucas lights on the front and
> wonder
> >> if there is a
> >> preferred terminal on the control box to use for
> >> power.
> >> Also,what amp fuse should I use? Each light has
> >> its own switch.
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Bill Pollock
> >Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every
> occasion!
> >
>
> --
> John Harper
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 05:49:23 -0600
Subject: Re: MotoLita Steering Wheel
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From bob anderson <bobanderson at archerserve.com>
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 06:14:46 -0700
Subject: camshaft regrind sources
<http://www.iskycams.com>
<http://www.webcaminc.com>
<http://www.crower.com>
<http://www.elgincams.com>
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk>
<http://www.cape-international.com>
American Cam
2001 East Gladstone
Unit G Glendora
91740
Clay Smith Engineering (714) 523-0530
ra, BJ8
colorado springsx
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:05:12 -0500
Subject: RE: MORE BONNET LATCH DILEMNA-MK1
Steve
61 BN7
Pulled on the left side plate (the one with the spring-like cable
attached) and it moved 4 cm's.
Tried again using a pliers--it did not move any more.
Took a HUGE screw-driver and stuck one end of it into the "hole" where
the spring-like cable is attached and tried to move it more by hitting the
screwdriver with a hammer. No luck.
Please email me as soon as you can.
C. Alexander
'60 3000 MK1-BJ7
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
To: Chris Email ThatGuyx@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:09:05 -0600
Subject: Jule Chassis
Chris, contact me off list re: Jule frame. My posts are not getting through
to you.
Jack Brashear
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
To: Chris Email ThatGuyx@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:48:55 EST
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end
> there have been more frequent and louder
> noises coming from it than in previous years.
>
Michael-
Have you considered the fact that you may after all the years need a new SS
"big bore" exhaust system?
Marion
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From Editorgary at aol.com
To: Chris Email ThatGuyx@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 12:23:49 EST
Subject: Re: John Harper.... Re: driving lights
Sounds to me like the same problem John is referring to. Since the lights
aren't going through the regulator, the generator or alternator wasn't
putting out enough juice to keep the battery charged and eventually it just
ran down. This is the kind of thing he might have noticed had he been running
an ammeter or voltmeter, but wouldn't necessarily be enough to light his
warning light until just at the very end, when it was too late.
cheers
gary
In a message dated 3/6/02 2:26:14 AM, international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<<
Still, after some thought, the battery lead is the
car's most direct connection to clean, stable power.
I would think routing through the control box will add
some resistance & variance to the set up, correct?
I'll rewire mine accordingly to your comment -
thankfully I only have one wire to move as that one
hot lead is routed into a six blade auxiliary fuse box
for all my goodies!
Take it easy & thanks for the education -
Alan >>
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From Bill Poff <vze2pvp7 at verizon.net>
To: Chris Email ThatGuyx@aol.com
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 10:13:59 -0500
Subject: Re: 100-M bonnet straps
Regards,
Bill
100M
100
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From "David Ward" <david at bighealey.ltd.uk>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 17:53:24 -0000
Subject: Anyone looking for a 3000 short block straight out of the crate?
> Guys,
>
> Saw this on Ebay. Was going to bid on it till it just reached
> $3000.
>
> Mike B
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
>
> AUSTIN HEALEY 3000 SHORT BLOCK NOS!!!!!!!!!!!
> WILL SHIP TO U.S ONLY!!!!
>
> THIS IS AN AUCTION FOR A COMPLETE FACTORY SHORT BLOCK.IN THE BMC
> BOX.STILL COSMOLINE COVERED AND HAS BEEN KEPT IN DRY STORAGE SINCE THE
> 60'S.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1809011390
>
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try
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
> /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
> /// Send list postings to , >
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From "Lynn Wood" <registryrearch at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 11:56:13 -0500
Subject: Leather Straps
I would think that any great harness shop could do a good job as the set up
was very straight forward. The buckles are most difficult to duplicate, but
if you go to a belt store, they will most likely have an inexpensive couple of
belts with the proper buckles.
When you make the duplicates, the belt for the louvred hood is three feet one
and one-half inches long with six oval holes one quarter inch long on either
side of the strap starting two and one-quarter inches from the end tips which
are rounded with definite points to the ends, not tapered. There are two
stripes on either side of the belt which are strengthing features which the
harness maker can roll in and these are one-eighth of a inch in from the
edge.
Make the buckle leathers too long and then fit them on either side of the hood
so that they do not go under the hood when it closes. Then position the two
chrome plates where wanted and cut the straps to fit under the plates. Under
the aluminum shroud should be two thin other plates, through which the two
chrome screws fit to squeeze the aluminum shroud from both top and bottom.
Bill Wood
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 18:54:29 +0000
Subject: FW: Alert: Worm posing as IE cumulative patch
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
---------------------- Forwarded Message: ---------------------
From: Ira Erbs <ierbs@pja.pvt.k12.or.us>
To: "Ira Erbs (E-mail)" <eyera@edmail.com>
Cc: "Michelle Erbs (E-mail)" <merbs@birkenstockusa.com>, "Donna R Erbs
(E-mail)" <Donna.R.Erbs@kp.org>
Subject: FW: Alert: Worm posing as IE cumulative patch
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:49:57 -0800
Ira Erbs
Technology Coordinator
Portland Jewish Academy
6651 SW capitol Hwy
Portland, OR 97219
503.244.0126 xt 138
Fax 503.452.7001
"Learning without thinking is labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Wolff [mailto:don.wolff@phoenix.k12.or.us]
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 10:16 AM
To: MACEP; staff@phoenix.k12.or.us
Subject: Alert: Worm posing as IE cumulative patch
Just thought this would be a very good thing to share!
> Lots of people have emailed me about the email making the rounds which
> states its from "Microsoft Corporation Security Center" and has a
> subject line of "Internet Security Update".
>
> The email has an attachment which the message claims to be the "1 Mar
> 2002 Cumulative Patch" for IE.
>
> In case you don't already know, there isn't such a patch and its not
> from Microsoft. Microsoft never emails out patches.
>
> The bogus email is actually the GIBE worm, a description for which can
> be seen at;
>
> http://www.f-secure.com/v-descs/gibe.shtml
> http://www.sarc.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.gibe@mm.html
> http://vil.nai.com/vil/content/v_99377.htm
> http://www.antivirus.com/cgi-bin/vinfo.pl?OneVirus=WORM_GIBE.DR
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 14:40:55 EST
Subject: Healey Trivia
Instead I would like to do a "Healey trivia" contest using a combination of
questions and photos. Answer the question, identify the object in the photo
etc.
Since this list is a virtual goldmine of arcane Healey trivia I thought I
would start here first. Send me your suggestions for questions or if you have
a JPG of an item that could be used.
After Springthing I'll post it all to a web page and everyone can play the
Home version.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 16:01:31 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Batch Numbers
With almost 4,000 cars now accounted for in the BJ8 Registry (approaching
23% of total original production), and with about 10% of those owners
having contributed a copy of the BMIHT certificate, there are opportunities
to use the data to learn something about the original production of the
cars. Until today, every BJ8 I know of has a "Batch Number" beginning with
3 stamped on its body number plate. The registry records show that the
BJ8 bodies run continuously from the first, Batch Number 3171, to the last,
Batch Number 3240 with some intervening numbers skipped.
Today, I received a copy of the BMIHT certificate for HBJ8L/26641 that
identifies a Batch/Body number of 4188 BJ8 71421-L. The owner confirms
that the body number plate on the firewall is stamped with that number, and
a re-check with BMIHT confirms that number with their comment "We do not
find anything unusual regarding the body number of your car. The number
4188 is the batch number". This gives the car a unique batch number, as far
as I know, and I certainly find it unusual.
Does anyone else know of another BJ8 with a batch number that doesn't fall
between 3171 and 3240? If so, I would very much like to know about it. If
you are inclined to go look at your own car, you may have to push the clutch
line up or down a bit to see the top line of numbers (including the batch
number) stamped on the body tag. The body tag is the one just above the
grommet where the water temp sensor tube comes through the firewall.
For further information, and comparison, the registry records the following
for cars near HBJ8L/26641:
HBJ8L/26595: Body 3181 BJ8 71552
HBJ8L/26602: Body 3181 BJ8 71398L
HBJ8L/26609: Body 3181 BJ8 71455
HBJ8L/26641: Body 4188 BJ8 71421-L
HBJ8L/26670: Body 3181 BJ8 71524
HBJ8L/26682: Body 3181 BJ8 71555
To pick a body number close to 71421-L: Body 71412 belongs to Batch 3181
also.
Ordinarily, I would think 4188 is a typo, but then it appears to be recorded
that way in the factory records. Perhaps that was a mistake, too, but then
again, perhaps not.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 17:18:10 EST
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end
<< there have been more frequent and louder
> noises coming from it than in previous years. >>
No problem. Unless there are particles in them!
Don
Healey parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 17:21:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Lempert's rear end
ps my surgeon told me years ago there are 2 kinds of people in the world:
1) those who have Hemorrhoids
2) those who are gonna get them.......
HLY
Drtrite@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 3/6/02 9:51:14 AM Central Standard Time,
>MBran89793@aol.com writes:
>
><< there have been more frequent and louder
> > noises coming from it than in previous years. >>
>
>No problem. Unless there are particles in them!
>
>Don
>Healey parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 20:18:39 -0600
Subject: No Healey Content: Just a little late night humor from
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 20:36:51 +0000
Subject: BJ8 cam duration at .050"
Thanks,
Rich
BT7
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 08:12:09 +0000
Subject: Re: John Harper.... Re: driving lights
There is a small amount of resistance in the control box but this is all
compensated for by setting the dynamo to give the increased output. This
in turn "wipes out" any voltage loss in the control box and gives a
better controlled voltage at the lights.
When charging it is the dynamo which gives the most stable power. The
battery can loose charge if the dynamo does not "know about" the extra
drain on it.
Hope this helps.
All the best
>
>Thanks for that. I'm dissapointed with myself not
>having even considered that!
>
>Still, after some thought, the battery lead is the
>car's most direct connection to clean, stable power.
>I would think routing through the control box will add
>some resistance & variance to the set up, correct?
>
>I'll rewire mine accordingly to your comment -
>thankfully I only have one wire to move as that one
>hot lead is routed into a six blade auxiliary fuse box
>for all my goodies!
>
>Take it easy & thanks for the education -
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- John Harper <John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>> Alan
>>
>> Just a small and maybe somewhat acedemic point but
>> all loads on the
>> battery and dynamo system should go via the control
>> box. That is,
>> connected to the A1 connection. This will route the
>> extra current
>> through the control box series coil. This will in
>> turn increase the
>> dynamo output to compensate for the extra load. If
>> taken directly from
>> the battery the control box will not "know" that
>> more charge is required
>> until the battery has discharged a little.
>>
>> I agree an extra fuse should be added
>>
>> All the best
>>
>>
>> >Bill -
>> >
>> >For those lights, you should run a relay with power
>> >drawn straight from the hot battery lead on the
>> >solenoid. I use 15 amp blade fuses and they work
>> very
>> >well. My BJ8 has Flamethrowers on it, individually
>> >switched like the way you want to set it up... FYI
>> >
>> >Alan
>> >
>> >'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>> >
>> >--- Bill Pollock <wjpollock@erols.com> wrote:
>> >> Installing two Lucas lights on the front and
>> wonder
>> >> if there is a
>> >> preferred terminal on the control box to use for
>> >> power.
>> >> Also,what amp fuse should I use? Each light has
>> >> its own switch.
>> >> Thanks
>> >>
>> >> Bill Pollock
>> >Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every
>> occasion!
>> >
>>
>> --
>> John Harper
>Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
>http://mail.yahoo.com/
--
John Harper
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:57:17 EST
Subject: windshield washers .... damn-it !
Well, it's warm, and salt cleansing rain is predicted. Sounds like it's time
to wake Mrs. peel (3000MkI).
Thanks to the requirements of those fine state folks who keep our cars safe,
(((for moron drivers))) I need to get my windshield washing system working
.... soon. I've been squirting the frozen hand pump all winter with
"Aerokroil" (thanks Enis), but for the first time this stuff hasn't worked.
Question: 1. Has anyone seen this pump available new ?
2. Any alternative come to mind ?
Last year I carried a spray bottle of water, but the guy overlooked the
washers. (I knew he was a bourbon drinker)
I haven't used the top, much less the wipers or washers more than 5 times in
10 years. I'd hate to "get rejected" for this !
Somehow reminds me of Mario and "The Turbine Car" that lost Indy in late
60's. That one little $.25 part that ended his race.
Well, this ain't gonna stop Mrs. Peel ................ is it ?
Thanks and Cheers, David Maxwell and the topless Mrs. Peel
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:59:58 EST
Subject: Re: windshield washers .... damn-it !
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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from Moss good quality and accurate? If not, does anyone recondition
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 10:17:52 -0600
Subject: 100-4 door lock
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 12:32:36 -0600
Subject: 100-4 Grille Assembly
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:18:18 -0500
Subject: headers
I'm considering installing headers on my bj8 ( exhaust will be older single
muffler style) .Also have not done any other engine modifications. Will there
be any noticeable improvement? If yes. is it at all ranges of rpm's? Your
comments would be appreciated.
Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 14:49:17 -0800
Subject: Volunteer state volunteer needed
He needs his computer repaired so he can communicate with this
wife and family. We have two people on the Jag lists that will
provide her with a free computer. Now we need someone with
a little computer expertise that could instal the computers.
I need a volunteer in the Volunteer state.
Ron Rader
******************************************
Ron, that would be great. Cadiz is about 40 miles n/nw of Clarksville.
I've
dredged up Karl's home phone number and will be calling his wife when
she
gets home from work today, so maybe we can find out just what the
problem
is, if she knows.
Would you believe that I've already had offers for two people who are
willing to ship complete computers to Mrs. E? What a wonderful
community the
J-L folks are!!
Best regards,
Gregory Wells
Coventry West, Inc. - Atlanta, GA
New, Rebuilt, and Used
Jaguar & Land-Rover Parts
www.coventrywest.com
800-331-2193 x103
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 23:29:18 +0000
Subject: 40 degree fun
- Chinese Proverb
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
scan0.jpg]
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 19:12:26 -0800
Subject: looking
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From Auburn Design Group <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 19:32:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Volunteer state volunteer needed
Have you tried looking up in the yellow pages (on line) for Clarksville and see
if there is a computer shop who might be willing to donate the task?
Bob Denton
Ron Rader wrote:
> Healey Listers:
> On the Jag list we have a request from a service man in
> Afghanistan. He needs a repair for his computer at his in Cadiz, KY.
> Cadiz is a very small town about 40 miles north of Clarksville, TN
> (where Ft. Campbell is located). Cadiz (pronounced kay-deez)
> is near TVA's Land Between The Lakes park and is best known
> as a major producer of country hams.
>
> He needs his computer repaired so he can communicate with this
> wife and family. We have two people on the Jag lists that will
> provide her with a free computer. Now we need someone with
> a little computer expertise that could instal the computers.
>
> I need a volunteer in the Volunteer state.
> Ron Rader
> ******************************************
>
> Ron, that would be great. Cadiz is about 40 miles n/nw of Clarksville.
> I've
> dredged up Karl's home phone number and will be calling his wife when
> she
> gets home from work today, so maybe we can find out just what the
> problem
> is, if she knows.
>
> Would you believe that I've already had offers for two people who are
> willing to ship complete computers to Mrs. E? What a wonderful
> community the
> J-L folks are!!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Gregory Wells
> Coventry West, Inc. - Atlanta, GA
> New, Rebuilt, and Used
> Jaguar & Land-Rover Parts
> www.coventrywest.com
> 800-331-2193 x103
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:06:47 -0800
Subject: Tachometer Hook-up
Thanks in advance.
Tachless in Vancouver.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:27:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Tachometer Hook-up
This question comes up quite regularly, actually.
Your tachometer must be converted to negative ground.
There are two types of tachs on BJ8s, and depending on
which kind you have it can be a relatively simple job
or rather involved. Since your BJ8 is an earlier one,
chances are the tach is a more complicated conversion
- which the conversion should be left to a
professional. I believe David Nock at british car
specialists (www.britishcarspecialists.com) can take
care of it for you for around a $100 or so.
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- rob <rob@iwjlaw.com> wrote:
> Can someone on the list walk me through the steps to
> hook-up the (positive
> ground) tachometer on a 1964 BJ8 (thought it was a
> '66). The tach has not
> been converted to negative ground. The PO removed it
> to have it repaired and
> I just received it in the mail sans instructions.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tachless in Vancouver.
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 20:27:03 -0600
Subject: Windscreen Wipers
Mark
Nashville
BN1
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From CCTXMAX at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 21:57:39 EST
Subject: Tach Conversion
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/zip which had a name of
Tach Conv 1.ZIP]
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 19:02:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Windscreen Wipers
Arguably the weakest design flaw on the BN1s. I had
the same problem - it seemed like no matter how much I
tightened it, it just wouldn't grip.
I finally figured out the problem and this is how I
fixed it:
1) Description of problem - The wiper arm is fixed to
the wiper shaft by a conical brass ferrule that
tightens on the shaft when you tighten the nut. For
some reason, I think the factory put some restricting
solder on the fixing nut's threads (I could be wrong?)
which prevents the nut from coming loose and falling
out. Over time, as the ferrule wears, the restricting
solder interferes with the threads and nothing gets
fixed down properly.
2) The fix - take the wiper arm off and set it gently
in a vise with the fixing nut facing up.
3) Get a really good quality six sided socket (1/2"
SAE), if you have one, and gently & slowly remove the
nut no matter how much force it takes.
4) One you get the nut out, you'll see the threads
will probably be messed up with this fixing solder or
whatever has messed up the threads. Get a mini-file
and restore the threads to normal... or use a thread
restorer if you have one.
5) once the threads are cleaned up, you can put it all
back together and you'll notice that the wiper nut
will cinch down firmly and all will work much better.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:
> I have just rebuilt the wipers on my BN1. Cleaned
> and re-lubed the wheel
> boxes, the tube and the gears. I sure didn't expect
> the roller bearings
> inside the motor gear box. I cleaned up the motor
> and it works and looks
> "like new", what ever that was. I put new wiper
> arms on the 1/4 shafts but
> I am having a problem with them slipping on the
> shaft. I have them as tight
> as I think they will get without striping the
> threads. Are there any tricks
> to making the wiper arm one with the shaft?
>
> Mark
> Nashville
> BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 19:06:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: BJ8 windshield washers - question
Is there any fix for this problem? I have to imagine
every BJ8 owner has the same problem. Ideas?
Cheers -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 19:34:03 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 windshield washers - question
A de-icer additive which should raise the boiling point as well as lower the
freezing point.
Insulate the resevoir with a reflective material.
my 0.02
Jim '62 BT7 tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 7:06 PM
Subject: BJ8 windshield washers - question
> Speaking of washer pumps - my BJ8's washer pump
> reservoir (which is located in the engine compartment)
> - the washer fluid ALWAYS evaporates after a couple
> hundred miles. As a result, I never use the pump -
> the system is always dry. I sure would like to clean
> my windshield on the road sometimes...
>
> Is there any fix for this problem? I have to imagine
> every BJ8 owner has the same problem. Ideas?
>
> Cheers -
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 20:56:58 +0000
Subject: Re: headers
Headers are cool. In most applications they add power without adding
stress or complexity to an engine.
On a stock BJ8 my impression or recollection is that low and mid range
power are bumped up a little. I think a stock muffler will reduce the
benefits of headers - this would be a good application for a free flow
muffler or glass packs.
I hope someone responds to your note who has added headers and can
speak from experience.
Just wondering, where are you getting Healey headers and at what cost?
Good luck,
Rich
BT7
caudle1@charter.net wrote:
>
> Listers;
>
> I'm considering installing headers on my bj8 ( exhaust will be older single
> muffler style) .Also have not done any other engine modifications. Will there
> be any noticeable improvement? If yes. is it at all ranges of rpm's? Your
> comments would be appreciated.
>
> Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 22:24:07 -0800
Subject: test
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 05:19:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Windscreen Wipers
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From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 06:57:33 EST
Subject: Jule frame vs. original
As a side note, there is a pretty good article in Healey Marque Magazine,
April 2000, comparing the two frames.
Based on material and section properties alone, and assuming both frames are
mild steel with the same modulus of elasticity, my rough calculations show
about a 75% increased stiffness just from the frame rails in the Jule frame
over the original rails. (I'm an engineer, not bragging or complaining).
That is, if the original rails deflected 1.75" between supports, the Jule
rails would deflect 1". That roughly corelates with the bending stress
values reported in the article...
Usual disclaimers. Let it be known that I have an original frame and have
never seen a Jule frame "in the flesh"...
Robert
BJ8
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From "cgsecord" <cgsecord at simcom.on.ca>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:32:39 -0500
Subject: flange to pinion nut
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 10:35:00 EST
Subject: BN6 interior question
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 08:27:11 -0800
Subject: inside bumpers
Should the inside of the bumpers and overriders be painted? Flat black
or other? Any tips on preparation and type of primer/paint that will
adhere to new chrome?
Cheers,
John
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 16:15:39 +0000
Subject: Re: Volunteer state volunteer needed
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> It would probably be easier to get a volunteer from the Ble Grass state.
>
> Have you tried looking up in the yellow pages (on line) for Clarksville and
>see
> if there is a computer shop who might be willing to donate the task?
>
> Bob Denton
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
>
> > Healey Listers:
> > On the Jag list we have a request from a service man in
> > Afghanistan. He needs a repair for his computer at his in Cadiz, KY.
> > Cadiz is a very small town about 40 miles north of Clarksville, TN
> > (where Ft. Campbell is located). Cadiz (pronounced kay-deez)
> > is near TVA's Land Between The Lakes park and is best known
> > as a major producer of country hams.
> >
> > He needs his computer repaired so he can communicate with this
> > wife and family. We have two people on the Jag lists that will
> > provide her with a free computer. Now we need someone with
> > a little computer expertise that could instal the computers.
> >
> > I need a volunteer in the Volunteer state.
> > Ron Rader
> > ******************************************
> >
> > Ron, that would be great. Cadiz is about 40 miles n/nw of Clarksville.
> > I've
> > dredged up Karl's home phone number and will be calling his wife when
> > she
> > gets home from work today, so maybe we can find out just what the
> > problem
> > is, if she knows.
> >
> > Would you believe that I've already had offers for two people who are
> > willing to ship complete computers to Mrs. E? What a wonderful
> > community the
> > J-L folks are!!
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Gregory Wells
> > Coventry West, Inc. - Atlanta, GA
> > New, Rebuilt, and Used
> > Jaguar & Land-Rover Parts
> > www.coventrywest.com
> > 800-331-2193 x103
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:30:27 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 interior question
The welting is probably for the alloy door shutplate finisher. See Moss
249-880, item 7 on the rear body fittings page in their catalog.
Jim
BN6, BN7...etc.
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From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 11:34:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Volunteer state volunteer needed
eyera3@attbi.com wrote:
> I bet there's a local user group, community college or
> tech school, where a volunterr could be located.
>
> --
> Ira Erbs
> Digs-4 Solutions
> For training,network,PC and
> Macintosh
> "Learning without thinking is
> labor lost; thinking
> without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
> > It would probably be easier to get a volunteer from the Ble Grass state.
> >
> > Have you tried looking up in the yellow pages (on line) for Clarksville and
>see
> > if there is a computer shop who might be willing to donate the task?
> >
> > Bob Denton
> >
> > Ron Rader wrote:
> >
> > > Healey Listers:
> > > On the Jag list we have a request from a service man in
> > > Afghanistan. He needs a repair for his computer at his in Cadiz, KY.
> > > Cadiz is a very small town about 40 miles north of Clarksville, TN
> > > (where Ft. Campbell is located). Cadiz (pronounced kay-deez)
> > > is near TVA's Land Between The Lakes park and is best known
> > > as a major producer of country hams.
> > >
> > > He needs his computer repaired so he can communicate with this
> > > wife and family. We have two people on the Jag lists that will
> > > provide her with a free computer. Now we need someone with
> > > a little computer expertise that could instal the computers.
> > >
> > > I need a volunteer in the Volunteer state.
> > > Ron Rader
> > > ******************************************
> > >
> > > Ron, that would be great. Cadiz is about 40 miles n/nw of Clarksville.
> > > I've
> > > dredged up Karl's home phone number and will be calling his wife when
> > > she
> > > gets home from work today, so maybe we can find out just what the
> > > problem
> > > is, if she knows.
> > >
> > > Would you believe that I've already had offers for two people who are
> > > willing to ship complete computers to Mrs. E? What a wonderful
> > > community the
> > > J-L folks are!!
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Gregory Wells
> > > Coventry West, Inc. - Atlanta, GA
> > > New, Rebuilt, and Used
> > > Jaguar & Land-Rover Parts
> > > www.coventrywest.com
> > > 800-331-2193 x103
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From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 08:32:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITMEET IS BACK!!!!!!
Yep, we're back - and at the same time and place! El Camino Park in Palo
Alto on September 8th!!! Last year's, last minute, street renovation
project is finished and we are back on line as usual. This is the first
notification this year as we just confirmed the date with Palo Alto. There
still are some details to be worked out.
GOOD NEWS! The American MGB Association will once again be having their
National West Coast Convention at this meet so the MGB and Midgets will be
the featured marque.
NOT SORTED YET - The British Car Magazine Tour, usually held the day before
(this year would be Sept. 7th), is in question as the Magazine principals
have plans to be in the UK that week but we are working on some other tour
plans for this year - more information to follow.
BAD NEWS! The Greater Los Angeles British Car Meet is still without a
home. - Woodley Park in Van Nuys will not be available to us this year and
we are still looking for a new place - It is hard to find a place that will
let cars park on the lawn. We are talking about a much smaller and more
expensive event at an LA Automotive Museum but it will be a seriously
different type of event. We will keep you posted.
Once again, we thank you for your patients last year with all of the
problems that we had with our events. It was amazing that they all came up
at the same time. Palo Alto is back, better than ever, and Los Angeles is
still planned for mid-October SOMEPLACE. Hope to see you, and your British
car at an event soon.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Meet Coordinator
-----------------------------------------
THE PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET RETURNS
SUNDAY, September 8th, 2002
Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in California.
over 600 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected
to fill the field at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, for the 25th Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars.
Great British food, jazz, parts, literature, toys and gifts and more fun
than you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards will be given in
five classes. Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field by marque,
starting at 9:00AM, and the fun goes on all day long. The registration fee
is $25 per car at the gate. All participants will receive a commemorative
gift. Spectators park and attend free.
El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of University
Avenue, oppisite the Stanford Shopping Center, From 101 take University Ave
west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino
Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El
Camino. Trailer parking is available on-site at the park. DO NOT PARK
TRAILERS IN THE SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT PLEASE!
For information call: 310-392-6605 or email: "Britmeet 2001"
<rfeibusch@loop.com>
or visit us on the web at: http://www.autowire.net/2001-28.html
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 17:28:06 +0000
Subject: Re: PALO ALTO BRITMEET IS BACK!!!!!!
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Dear California British Car Enthusiast:
>
> Yep, we're back - and at the same time and place! El Camino Park in Palo
> Alto on September 8th!!! Last year's, last minute, street renovation
> project is finished and we are back on line as usual. This is the first
> notification this year as we just confirmed the date with Palo Alto. There
> still are some details to be worked out.
>
> GOOD NEWS! The American MGB Association will once again be having their
> National West Coast Convention at this meet so the MGB and Midgets will be
> the featured marque.
>
> NOT SORTED YET - The British Car Magazine Tour, usually held the day before
> (this year would be Sept. 7th), is in question as the Magazine principals
> have plans to be in the UK that week but we are working on some other tour
> plans for this year - more information to follow.
>
> BAD NEWS! The Greater Los Angeles British Car Meet is still without a
> home. - Woodley Park in Van Nuys will not be available to us this year and
> we are still looking for a new place - It is hard to find a place that will
> let cars park on the lawn. We are talking about a much smaller and more
> expensive event at an LA Automotive Museum but it will be a seriously
> different type of event. We will keep you posted.
>
> Once again, we thank you for your patients last year with all of the
> problems that we had with our events. It was amazing that they all came up
> at the same time. Palo Alto is back, better than ever, and Los Angeles is
> still planned for mid-October SOMEPLACE. Hope to see you, and your British
> car at an event soon.
>
> Cheers,
> Rick Feibusch
> Meet Coordinator
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> THE PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET RETURNS
> SUNDAY, September 8th, 2002
>
> Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in California.
> over 600 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected
> to fill the field at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, for the 25th Annual Palo
> Alto British Car Meet.
>
> Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street
> rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars.
> Great British food, jazz, parts, literature, toys and gifts and more fun
> than you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards will be given in
> five classes. Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
>
>
> There is no preregistration. Cars will be placed on the field by marque,
> starting at 9:00AM, and the fun goes on all day long. The registration fee
> is $25 per car at the gate. All participants will receive a commemorative
> gift. Spectators park and attend free.
>
> El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of University
> Avenue, oppisite the Stanford Shopping Center, From 101 take University Ave
> west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino
> Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El
> Camino. Trailer parking is available on-site at the park. DO NOT PARK
> TRAILERS IN THE SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT PLEASE!
>
> For information call: 310-392-6605 or email: "Britmeet 2001"
> <rfeibusch@loop.com>
> or visit us on the web at: http://www.autowire.net/2001-28.html
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:53:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: AH3000 original hard top: plastic or steel?
Francois
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 10:01:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: changing the VIN back to original?
Thanks in advance
Francois Wildi
Tucson AZ
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:20:36 -0500
Subject: Re: inside bumpers
John,
These are to be painted Caroline Chrome (Al). It should be a slightly dull
Al paint approx the wire wheel color. I would suggest any dependable brand
of primer and color coat.
Keith Pennell
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 18:33:17 +0000
Subject: Re: AH3000 original hard top: plastic or steel?
- Chinese Proverb
> I looked through the Clausager 'original AH' and the Anderson/Moment
> 'Restoration guide' books but I did not find this answer to my
> question. Does anyone know if the original hard top for big healeys
> was fiberglass/epoxy or steel?
> Thanks
>
> Francois
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 14:40:41 -0500
Subject: Re: AH3000 original hard top: plastic or steel?
Jim
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 15:46:16 -0500
Subject: RE: AH3000 original hard top: plastic or steel?
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of francois wildi
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 12:53 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: AH3000 original hard top: plastic or steel?
I looked through the Clausager 'original AH' and the Anderson/Moment
'Restoration guide' books but I did not find this answer to my
question. Does anyone know if the original hard top for big healeys
was fiberglass/epoxy or steel?
Thanks
Francois
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 15:07:23 +0000
Subject: Used 165x15 tire
Rich
Huntington Beach
BT7
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:00:46 -0500
Subject: Carb Heat Shield
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:18:33 -0500
Subject: Almost gone Healey
Just wanted to let everyone know of a big Healey sighting. Actually I have
known about the car for many years but was in the neighborhood today so
stopped by to see if it was still there.
The story is that it belonged to the now deceased father of a guy I met
probably in the mid 80s. David the son and now owner appears to sort of just
keep it as like a shrine to his father. David has had many offers to buy it
but will not sell, giving no reason. My guess is as above.
The car has been sitting out, uncovered in the weather on David's small
produce farm as long as I can remember. It is now down onto the rotors and
brake drums I am sure, but it is hard to tell because of the debris on and
around it. The interior has years worth of decayed leaves and such and even
has several clumps of grass growing in it. Naturally all the vinyl is all but
disappeared and you can see ground through numerous large holes in the rear
seat area and front floors.
The most interesting part is the exterior. The car is parked very close to a
mimosa tree at its right front corner. The first time I saw the car there was
a 2 inch thick shoot from the tree growing up between the front bumper and the
shroud. On a later visit the tree had been cut out. Now there are two 2 inch
shoots growing there and have caused the front of the shroud and the grill
surround to bend inward about an inch. As if this was not amazing enough, you
should see the RF knockoff. One of its ears is slightly embedded in the trunk
of the tree!!! The tree has grown around the ear!!! Amazing.
The car appears to be very complete but as you would suspect the fenders and
doors have pretty much lost the fight. The body parts look quite good if you
ignore the bottom 6-8 inches. The dash and gauges are there including
trafficator. It even has the stiffeners for the toneau bar lying in the back
seat area. Was not bold enough to lift the hood or trunk lid as David was not
there.
I do have one question. The badge in front as well as the vertical grill
slats and single pair of colorless behive running lights in front seem to
identify it as a BJ7. However, there are no roll up windows identifying it as
a BT7. Any ideas as to what model it is anybody? Is this a Mk II tricarb
BT7?
Well, just thought there might be some of you out there interested.
Keith Pennell
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:45:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Almost gone Healey
> Evening listers,
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know of a big Healey sighting. Actually I
have
> known about the car for many years but was in the neighborhood today so
> stopped by to see if it was still there.
>
> The story is that it belonged to the now deceased father of a guy I met
> probably in the mid 80s. David the son and now owner appears to sort of
just
> keep it as like a shrine to his father. David has had many offers to buy
it
> but will not sell, giving no reason. My guess is as above.
>
> The car has been sitting out, uncovered in the weather on David's small
> produce farm as long as I can remember. It is now down onto the rotors
and
> brake drums I am sure, but it is hard to tell because of the debris on and
> around it. The interior has years worth of decayed leaves and such and
even
> has several clumps of grass growing in it. Naturally all the vinyl is all
but
> disappeared and you can see ground through numerous large holes in the
rear
> seat area and front floors.
>
> The most interesting part is the exterior. The car is parked very close
to a
> mimosa tree at its right front corner. The first time I saw the car there
was
> a 2 inch thick shoot from the tree growing up between the front bumper and
the
> shroud. On a later visit the tree had been cut out. Now there are two 2
inch
> shoots growing there and have caused the front of the shroud and the grill
> surround to bend inward about an inch. As if this was not amazing enough,
you
> should see the RF knockoff. One of its ears is slightly embedded in the
trunk
> of the tree!!! The tree has grown around the ear!!! Amazing.
>
> The car appears to be very complete but as you would suspect the fenders
and
> doors have pretty much lost the fight. The body parts look quite good if
you
> ignore the bottom 6-8 inches. The dash and gauges are there including
> trafficator. It even has the stiffeners for the toneau bar lying in the
back
> seat area. Was not bold enough to lift the hood or trunk lid as David was
not
> there.
>
> I do have one question. The badge in front as well as the vertical grill
> slats and single pair of colorless behive running lights in front seem to
> identify it as a BJ7. However, there are no roll up windows identifying
it as
> a BT7. Any ideas as to what model it is anybody? Is this a Mk II tricarb
> BT7?
>
> Well, just thought there might be some of you out there interested.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From Mike Tobin <ahbt7 at pppatch.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 21:40:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Used 165x15 tire
Mike T
At 03:07 PM 2002.03.08 Friday +0000, Rich Locasso wrote:
>Wondering if anyone in the Orange County/LA area has an old 165x15 tire
>lying around, gathering dust, looking for love, that I could have,
>borrow for a while or buy. Please contact off list. Thanks in advance,
>
>Rich
>Huntington Beach
>BT7
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 18:56:41 -0800
Subject: NOT TO SAY TO A POLICE OFFICER
12. When the Officer says "Gee Son, your eyes look red, have you been
drinking?"
You probably shouldn't respond with,
"Gee Officer your eyes look glazed, have you been eating doughnuts?"
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 19:59:34 -0800
Subject: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
These mounts were _not_ BSF threaded, they were UNF, and according to
my understanding of both the Moss catalog and the Healey parts book,
when they went to the UNF threaded mounts they did away with the
spacers. The replacement mounts, from Vicky Brit but with various UK
suppliers' part numbers on them as well, are the same height as the
ones I am replacing.
So, was my BN1 wrongly repaired in 1963? Should these spacers have
been discarded? Or do I need them in order to align the transmission
to the drive shaft and rear axle? Or, how do I find out if I would be
better off with the spacers installed?
Someone must have sorted out this question before now. All
experience-sharing appreciated.
-Roland
BN1 in recovery
BJ7 driver
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:05:24 -0600
Subject: Fw: Vapor Lock?
My first post to the list (after lurking for a few months) was before my Dad
and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to Temecula, CA to pick up my "new"
BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and drive the car back... I briefly
considered this option, but passed for a couple of reasons.
First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he has diabetes... if anything
happened to him, I would never forgive myself ... I thought the trip between
CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great adventure (for me) BUT, it is a 49
y.o. car!
Second, I worried about desert and nothing between here and there, boy was I
wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and smoothest highway (I-10) I've
driven... I will do it again and strongly recommend it (in a newer car) to
vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's absolutlely beautiful...
bring a camera.
Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I purchased... for these reasons
alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking back, this could have been a
horror story in the making... which leaves me to a couple of questions.
A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except, after the car has has been
warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever... when I restart, she misses
like crazy until it cools down to below 190 degrees... is this vapor lock?
As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly under the carbs. The kind
of heat it's putting off, could this be the problem?
B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time! What gives? Does anyone know
someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in Central Texas? Adriane and I
are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April... I would like to get these
issues behind me.
Thanks IA,
Charlie Stewart
Georgetown, TX
'53 A-H BN1
'71 TR-6
chadstew@texas.net
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 04:10:31 +0000
Subject: another Healey Sighting
Mark Fawcett
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: "'List, Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 23:48:20 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
Suggest you contact the (Three individual 100) registries and see if they
have owners of cars with serial numbers close to yours you can compare to.
On this mailing list I have seen one close below your number and one close
above your number:
rdenning@stapleton.com.au has: BN1L 147417 produced 11/11/53
yours has been noted as: BN1L 147419
bcolins@airmail.net has: BN1L 147455 produced 11/13/53
One would assume that yours was produced on or around 11/12/53.
Think how nice it would be to have a worldwide registry with all the numbers
and data available to help answer questions like yours.
Regards.
Steve
BN1 Brutus
Still up on blocks in California
Target is May, 2004 (50th birthday)
Gonna go for a drive!
In a message dated 3/8/02 7:58:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, rwil@cts.com
writes:
<< I am restoring an early BN1, body number 724. Getting ready to
replace the rear transmission mounts (two donuts on steel plates, with
threaded steel liners for the 'hole'), I found a spacer below each of
the mounts. Maybe around 3/16" thick.
These mounts were _not_ BSF threaded, they were UNF, and according to
my understanding of both the Moss catalog and the Healey parts book,
when they went to the UNF threaded mounts they did away with the
spacers. The replacement mounts, from Vicky Brit but with various UK
suppliers' part numbers on them as well, are the same height as the
ones I am replacing.
So, was my BN1 wrongly repaired in 1963? Should these spacers have
been discarded? Or do I need them in order to align the transmission
to the drive shaft and rear axle? Or, how do I find out if I would be
better off with the spacers installed?
Someone must have sorted out this question before now. All
experience-sharing appreciated.
-Roland
BN1 in recovery
BJ7 driver >>
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:59:14 -0800
Subject: Fw: Vapor Lock?
> Hello listers,
>
> My first post to the list (after lurking for a few months) was before my
Dad
> and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to Temecula, CA to pick up my
"new"
> BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and drive the car back... I
briefly
> considered this option, but passed for a couple of reasons.
>
> First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he has diabetes... if
anything
> happened to him, I would never forgive myself ... I thought the trip
between
> CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great adventure (for me) BUT, it is a
49
> y.o. car!
>
> Second, I worried about desert and nothing between here and there, boy was
I
> wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and smoothest highway (I-10)
I've
> driven... I will do it again and strongly recommend it (in a newer car) to
> vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's absolutlely
beautiful...
> bring a camera.
>
> Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I purchased... for these reasons
> alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking back, this could have
been a
> horror story in the making... which leaves me to a couple of questions.
>
> A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except, after the car has has
been
> warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever... when I restart, she misses
> like crazy until it cools down to below 190 degrees... is this vapor lock?
> As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly under the carbs. The
kind
> of heat it's putting off, could this be the problem?
>
> B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time! What gives? Does anyone
know
> someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in Central Texas? Adriane
and I
> are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April... I would like to get
these
> issues behind me.
>
> Thanks IA,
>
> Charlie Stewart
> Georgetown, TX
> '53 A-H BN1
> '71 TR-6
> chadstew@texas.net
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 00:39:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock?
Thanks for your response.
> First.7-10lbs??( help me here memory fails me) of fuel pump pressure
> typically prevents fuel lock.
It does? I'm not familiar with electric fuel pumps... so, if it's an electric
fuel pump, I don't have to worry about vapor lock? I have experience with
the Tr-6 (mechanical FP) and there are vapor lock problems... Question, why
would an electric fuel pump eliminate vapor lock while a mechanical pump would
not? They push fuel regardless, right?
Check to see if there is any oil in the carb
> dampers. Unscrew the bolt on the top of each carb and put a little bit of
> Mystery Marvel or other light oil in there.
That was the second thing I checked (oil level first) before I drove the
car... dampers are full... although everytime I check, I do have to top them
off...
> As for the shakes, two things, if wire wheels get them trued, check balance
> and thirdly check alignment of the car.
As for the shakes, I drank a pint of Guiness and I still shake... so I'm
blaming the car ;-)
I believe the 48 spokes are original for a couple of reasons... first, two
owners back, he restored the car... he bought it for his 25 yo newlywed... she
thought it would be great to have a convertable... twenty years later after
the car was restored, mind you she's a 45 years old now, decided she changed
her mind! So the car went up for auction. I have the receipts for a sand
blast and respray for the wires... I have noticed two wires are loose on one
wheel... I will move the spare to the weakest point and see if that helps...
> Welcome to a great "club" of car owners. I.'ve had my BT7 for over 25
years.
> Ira
Thanks for the welcome, everyone has been great! How could you not be if
you're a Healey owner? Do we have taste, or what???
Charlie Stewart
G'town, TX
Saturday forecast: Partly cloudy with a high of 65 degrees. Life doesn't get
any better! Unless you have a miss or a shake.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:43:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fw: Vapor Lock?
#1 ) It sounds to me your thermostat is too hot. The
car should NEVER be running over 190-200 degrees,
particularly on the freeway, even in 100 degree heat.
Most on the list, like myself, would suggest getting a
180 degree themostat, and then maybe running a 160
degree thermostat when the ambient temperature is
consitently over 90. You probably have a 190 degree
thermostat in your car, which is causing the missing
problems. If the thermostat is ok, then you should
get your radiator's core rodded & cleaned. BN1s have
a very well balanced cooling system and almost never
run hot unless the radiator or thermostat are screwed
up.
#2) The BN1 can be sensitive to high heats if your
ignition system has problems. This missing can be
caused by many things - yet vapor lock isn't one of
them. You only get vapor lock on cars with mechanical
fuel pumps mounted on the engine block - you get vapor
lock when the pump (on other cars like fords) is
struggling to drag fuel from the tank in the back and
its hot outside and the fuel in the line evaporates
causing lock, or also if the pump is hot and
vaporizing inside the pump. Healeys have an
electrical pump mounted right next to the fuel tank in
the back (so they never get hot), which PUSHES fuel
into the carbs - even if it is so hot that fuel is
evaporating in the float chambers - the electric pump
will always out-pump this problem. That means you
have some other problem - see next point.
#5) A few things can be sensitive to heat- #1 most
likely culprit is your coil. If your coil is getting
old, it will lose its spark when the dialectric oil
inside the coil gets too hot - then the plug won't
fire strong enough or regularly enough to run your
engine. Another possible culprit here is your
condensor in your distributor - this can fail when hot
as well (if it's old an worn). check your ignition
system thoroughly - wires, cap, rotor.
#6) If it is a fuel problem, it may be that your fuel
pump is starting to fail. pull the fuel line off from
the carbs and turn the key - you should get a light
but steady flow of gas- if it's dripping out orbareley
coming out - you have a problem with your fuel pump or
your fuel line - the flexible line to the carbs from
the chassis rail can get crudded up with age.
#7) Maybe your carbs are running out of tune, and
high heats are exacerbating the out of tune set up on
your carbs. I'd suggest a COMPLETE tune up -
ignition, timing, carbs. Are the carbs dirty or
leaking? if so maybe time for a rebuild.
#8) Is the vibration in your car in the steering
wheel? Probably not - which means it could be one of
many things -
#8a) If you have bad front shocks, your front tires
may be bouncing on the road around 55-65 MPH. This is
very common in healeys. Fix the front shocks after
you check them. push on the front and it should be
very firm and not bounce - if there's any bouncing AT
ALL - your shocks are bad. Bad shocks on healeys are
usually caused by out of balance tires, by the way.
#8b) Early BN1s like yours have a four stud rear axle
- "spiral bevel" type. The rear axle is great - it's
lighter than later healeys and generally never causes
problems, except for one - the four studs are mounted
to the axle hub with a weak design - the studs can
strip out with use. If one or two of the studs are
stripping out, it can cause alot of vibration. The
best test is to jack up the car, remove the rear tires
and remove the rear hubs and then check to see if the
four little studs are firmly seated and the stud notch
flush with the hub surface - if there is any play at
all your rear hubs are worn and must be replaced
completely. You can't buy them new but thankfully
there are so many good used ones around, it's not a
problem. email tricarb@aol.com for a new BN1 hub if
you need it. Replacing the studs with new ones won't
fix the problem - usually the hubs get stripped
out.... This is a serious problem and must be fixed as
soon as you find it.
#8c) Maybe your tires are simply out of balance.
Also, check to make sure you don't have broken spokes.
If a tire has more than one or two broken spokes -
you can get vibration.
Those are most of the things I can think off the top
of my head. congrats on the new purchase and I
guarantee that your healey will give you years of pure
joy.... mine have!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Charlie & Adriane <chadstew@texas.net> wrote:
> Hello listers,
>
> My first post to the list (after lurking for a few
> months) was before my Dad
> and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to
> Temecula, CA to pick up my "new"
> BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and drive
> the car back... I briefly
> considered this option, but passed for a couple of
> reasons.
>
> First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he
> has diabetes... if anything
> happened to him, I would never forgive myself ... I
> thought the trip between
> CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great adventure
> (for me) BUT, it is a 49
> y.o. car!
>
> Second, I worried about desert and nothing between
> here and there, boy was I
> wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and
> smoothest highway (I-10) I've
> driven... I will do it again and strongly recommend
> it (in a newer car) to
> vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's
> absolutlely beautiful...
> bring a camera.
>
> Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I
> purchased... for these reasons
> alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking
> back, this could have been a
> horror story in the making... which leaves me to a
> couple of questions.
>
> A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except,
> after the car has has been
> warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever... when
> I restart, she misses
> like crazy until it cools down to below 190
> degrees... is this vapor lock?
> As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly
> under the carbs. The kind
> of heat it's putting off, could this be the problem?
>
> B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time! What
> gives? Does anyone know
> someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in
> Central Texas? Adriane and I
> are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April... I
> would like to get these
> issues behind me.
>
> Thanks IA,
>
> Charlie Stewart
> Georgetown, TX
> '53 A-H BN1
> '71 TR-6
> chadstew@texas.net
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:51:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fw: Vapor Lock?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Charles -
>
> #1 ) It sounds to me your thermostat is too hot.
> The
> car should NEVER be running over 190-200 degrees,
> particularly on the freeway, even in 100 degree
> heat.
> Most on the list, like myself, would suggest getting
> a
> 180 degree themostat, and then maybe running a 160
> degree thermostat when the ambient temperature is
> consitently over 90. You probably have a 190 degree
> thermostat in your car, which is causing the missing
> problems. If the thermostat is ok, then you should
> get your radiator's core rodded & cleaned. BN1s
> have
> a very well balanced cooling system and almost never
> run hot unless the radiator or thermostat are
> screwed
> up.
>
> #2) The BN1 can be sensitive to high heats if your
> ignition system has problems. This missing can be
> caused by many things - yet vapor lock isn't one of
> them. You only get vapor lock on cars with
> mechanical
> fuel pumps mounted on the engine block - you get
> vapor
> lock when the pump (on other cars like fords) is
> struggling to drag fuel from the tank in the back
> and
> its hot outside and the fuel in the line evaporates
> causing lock, or also if the pump is hot and
> vaporizing inside the pump. Healeys have an
> electrical pump mounted right next to the fuel tank
> in
> the back (so they never get hot), which PUSHES fuel
> into the carbs - even if it is so hot that fuel is
> evaporating in the float chambers - the electric
> pump
> will always out-pump this problem. That means you
> have some other problem - see next point.
>
> #5) A few things can be sensitive to heat- #1 most
> likely culprit is your coil. If your coil is
> getting
> old, it will lose its spark when the dialectric oil
> inside the coil gets too hot - then the plug won't
> fire strong enough or regularly enough to run your
> engine. Another possible culprit here is your
> condensor in your distributor - this can fail when
> hot
> as well (if it's old an worn). check your ignition
> system thoroughly - wires, cap, rotor.
>
> #6) If it is a fuel problem, it may be that your
> fuel
> pump is starting to fail. pull the fuel line off
> from
> the carbs and turn the key - you should get a light
> but steady flow of gas- if it's dripping out
> orbareley
> coming out - you have a problem with your fuel pump
> or
> your fuel line - the flexible line to the carbs from
> the chassis rail can get crudded up with age.
>
> #7) Maybe your carbs are running out of tune, and
> high heats are exacerbating the out of tune set up
> on
> your carbs. I'd suggest a COMPLETE tune up -
> ignition, timing, carbs. Are the carbs dirty or
> leaking? if so maybe time for a rebuild.
>
> #8) Is the vibration in your car in the steering
> wheel? Probably not - which means it could be one
> of
> many things -
>
> #8a) If you have bad front shocks, your front tires
> may be bouncing on the road around 55-65 MPH. This
> is
> very common in healeys. Fix the front shocks after
> you check them. push on the front and it should be
> very firm and not bounce - if there's any bouncing
> AT
> ALL - your shocks are bad. Bad shocks on healeys
> are
> usually caused by out of balance tires, by the way.
>
> #8b) Early BN1s like yours have a four stud rear
> axle
> - "spiral bevel" type. The rear axle is great -
> it's
> lighter than later healeys and generally never
> causes
> problems, except for one - the four studs are
> mounted
> to the axle hub with a weak design - the studs can
> strip out with use. If one or two of the studs are
> stripping out, it can cause alot of vibration. The
> best test is to jack up the car, remove the rear
> tires
> and remove the rear hubs and then check to see if
> the
> four little studs are firmly seated and the stud
> notch
> flush with the hub surface - if there is any play at
> all your rear hubs are worn and must be replaced
> completely. You can't buy them new but thankfully
> there are so many good used ones around, it's not a
> problem. email tricarb@aol.com for a new BN1 hub if
> you need it. Replacing the studs with new ones
> won't
> fix the problem - usually the hubs get stripped
> out.... This is a serious problem and must be fixed
> as
> soon as you find it.
>
> #8c) Maybe your tires are simply out of balance.
> Also, check to make sure you don't have broken
> spokes.
> If a tire has more than one or two broken spokes -
> you can get vibration.
>
> Those are most of the things I can think off the top
> of my head. congrats on the new purchase and I
> guarantee that your healey will give you years of
> pure
> joy.... mine have!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Charlie & Adriane <chadstew@texas.net> wrote:
> > Hello listers,
> >
> > My first post to the list (after lurking for a few
> > months) was before my Dad
> > and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to
> > Temecula, CA to pick up my "new"
> > BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and
> drive
> > the car back... I briefly
> > considered this option, but passed for a couple of
> > reasons.
> >
> > First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he
> > has diabetes... if anything
> > happened to him, I would never forgive myself ...
> I
> > thought the trip between
> > CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great
> adventure
> > (for me) BUT, it is a 49
> > y.o. car!
> >
> > Second, I worried about desert and nothing between
> > here and there, boy was I
> > wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and
> > smoothest highway (I-10) I've
> > driven... I will do it again and strongly
> recommend
> > it (in a newer car) to
> > vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's
> > absolutlely beautiful...
> > bring a camera.
> >
> > Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I
> > purchased... for these reasons
> > alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking
> > back, this could have been a
> > horror story in the making... which leaves me to a
> > couple of questions.
> >
> > A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except,
> > after the car has has been
> > warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever...
> when
> > I restart, she misses
> > like crazy until it cools down to below 190
> > degrees... is this vapor lock?
> > As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly
> > under the carbs. The kind
> > of heat it's putting off, could this be the
> problem?
> >
> > B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time!
> What
> > gives? Does anyone know
> > someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in
> > Central Texas? Adriane and I
> > are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April...
> I
> > would like to get these
> > issues behind me.
> >
> > Thanks IA,
>
=== message truncated ===
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 22:51:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fw: Vapor Lock?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Charles -
>
> #1 ) It sounds to me your thermostat is too hot.
> The
> car should NEVER be running over 190-200 degrees,
> particularly on the freeway, even in 100 degree
> heat.
> Most on the list, like myself, would suggest getting
> a
> 180 degree themostat, and then maybe running a 160
> degree thermostat when the ambient temperature is
> consitently over 90. You probably have a 190 degree
> thermostat in your car, which is causing the missing
> problems. If the thermostat is ok, then you should
> get your radiator's core rodded & cleaned. BN1s
> have
> a very well balanced cooling system and almost never
> run hot unless the radiator or thermostat are
> screwed
> up.
>
> #2) The BN1 can be sensitive to high heats if your
> ignition system has problems. This missing can be
> caused by many things - yet vapor lock isn't one of
> them. You only get vapor lock on cars with
> mechanical
> fuel pumps mounted on the engine block - you get
> vapor
> lock when the pump (on other cars like fords) is
> struggling to drag fuel from the tank in the back
> and
> its hot outside and the fuel in the line evaporates
> causing lock, or also if the pump is hot and
> vaporizing inside the pump. Healeys have an
> electrical pump mounted right next to the fuel tank
> in
> the back (so they never get hot), which PUSHES fuel
> into the carbs - even if it is so hot that fuel is
> evaporating in the float chambers - the electric
> pump
> will always out-pump this problem. That means you
> have some other problem - see next point.
>
> #5) A few things can be sensitive to heat- #1 most
> likely culprit is your coil. If your coil is
> getting
> old, it will lose its spark when the dialectric oil
> inside the coil gets too hot - then the plug won't
> fire strong enough or regularly enough to run your
> engine. Another possible culprit here is your
> condensor in your distributor - this can fail when
> hot
> as well (if it's old an worn). check your ignition
> system thoroughly - wires, cap, rotor.
>
> #6) If it is a fuel problem, it may be that your
> fuel
> pump is starting to fail. pull the fuel line off
> from
> the carbs and turn the key - you should get a light
> but steady flow of gas- if it's dripping out
> orbareley
> coming out - you have a problem with your fuel pump
> or
> your fuel line - the flexible line to the carbs from
> the chassis rail can get crudded up with age.
>
> #7) Maybe your carbs are running out of tune, and
> high heats are exacerbating the out of tune set up
> on
> your carbs. I'd suggest a COMPLETE tune up -
> ignition, timing, carbs. Are the carbs dirty or
> leaking? if so maybe time for a rebuild.
>
> #8) Is the vibration in your car in the steering
> wheel? Probably not - which means it could be one
> of
> many things -
>
> #8a) If you have bad front shocks, your front tires
> may be bouncing on the road around 55-65 MPH. This
> is
> very common in healeys. Fix the front shocks after
> you check them. push on the front and it should be
> very firm and not bounce - if there's any bouncing
> AT
> ALL - your shocks are bad. Bad shocks on healeys
> are
> usually caused by out of balance tires, by the way.
>
> #8b) Early BN1s like yours have a four stud rear
> axle
> - "spiral bevel" type. The rear axle is great -
> it's
> lighter than later healeys and generally never
> causes
> problems, except for one - the four studs are
> mounted
> to the axle hub with a weak design - the studs can
> strip out with use. If one or two of the studs are
> stripping out, it can cause alot of vibration. The
> best test is to jack up the car, remove the rear
> tires
> and remove the rear hubs and then check to see if
> the
> four little studs are firmly seated and the stud
> notch
> flush with the hub surface - if there is any play at
> all your rear hubs are worn and must be replaced
> completely. You can't buy them new but thankfully
> there are so many good used ones around, it's not a
> problem. email tricarb@aol.com for a new BN1 hub if
> you need it. Replacing the studs with new ones
> won't
> fix the problem - usually the hubs get stripped
> out.... This is a serious problem and must be fixed
> as
> soon as you find it.
>
> #8c) Maybe your tires are simply out of balance.
> Also, check to make sure you don't have broken
> spokes.
> If a tire has more than one or two broken spokes -
> you can get vibration.
>
> Those are most of the things I can think off the top
> of my head. congrats on the new purchase and I
> guarantee that your healey will give you years of
> pure
> joy.... mine have!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Charlie & Adriane <chadstew@texas.net> wrote:
> > Hello listers,
> >
> > My first post to the list (after lurking for a few
> > months) was before my Dad
> > and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to
> > Temecula, CA to pick up my "new"
> > BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and
> drive
> > the car back... I briefly
> > considered this option, but passed for a couple of
> > reasons.
> >
> > First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he
> > has diabetes... if anything
> > happened to him, I would never forgive myself ...
> I
> > thought the trip between
> > CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great
> adventure
> > (for me) BUT, it is a 49
> > y.o. car!
> >
> > Second, I worried about desert and nothing between
> > here and there, boy was I
> > wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and
> > smoothest highway (I-10) I've
> > driven... I will do it again and strongly
> recommend
> > it (in a newer car) to
> > vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's
> > absolutlely beautiful...
> > bring a camera.
> >
> > Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I
> > purchased... for these reasons
> > alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking
> > back, this could have been a
> > horror story in the making... which leaves me to a
> > couple of questions.
> >
> > A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except,
> > after the car has has been
> > warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever...
> when
> > I restart, she misses
> > like crazy until it cools down to below 190
> > degrees... is this vapor lock?
> > As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly
> > under the carbs. The kind
> > of heat it's putting off, could this be the
> problem?
> >
> > B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time!
> What
> > gives? Does anyone know
> > someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in
> > Central Texas? Adriane and I
> > are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April...
> I
> > would like to get these
> > issues behind me.
> >
> > Thanks IA,
>
=== message truncated ===
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 02:00:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Almost gone Healey
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Evening listers,
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know of a big Healey sighting. Actually I have
> known about the car for many years but was in the neighborhood today so
> stopped by to see if it was still there.
>
> The story is that it belonged to the now deceased father of a guy I met
> probably in the mid 80s. David the son and now owner appears to sort of just
> keep it as like a shrine to his father. David has had many offers to buy it
> but will not sell, giving no reason. My guess is as above.
>
> The car has been sitting out, uncovered in the weather on David's small
> produce farm as long as I can remember. It is now down onto the rotors and
> brake drums I am sure, but it is hard to tell because of the debris on and
> around it. The interior has years worth of decayed leaves and such and even
> has several clumps of grass growing in it. Naturally all the vinyl is all but
> disappeared and you can see ground through numerous large holes in the rear
> seat area and front floors.
>
> The most interesting part is the exterior. The car is parked very close to a
> mimosa tree at its right front corner. The first time I saw the car there was
> a 2 inch thick shoot from the tree growing up between the front bumper and the
> shroud. On a later visit the tree had been cut out. Now there are two 2 inch
> shoots growing there and have caused the front of the shroud and the grill
> surround to bend inward about an inch. As if this was not amazing enough, you
> should see the RF knockoff. One of its ears is slightly embedded in the trunk
> of the tree!!! The tree has grown around the ear!!! Amazing.
>
> The car appears to be very complete but as you would suspect the fenders and
> doors have pretty much lost the fight. The body parts look quite good if you
> ignore the bottom 6-8 inches. The dash and gauges are there including
> trafficator. It even has the stiffeners for the toneau bar lying in the back
> seat area. Was not bold enough to lift the hood or trunk lid as David was not
> there.
>
> I do have one question. The badge in front as well as the vertical grill
> slats and single pair of colorless behive running lights in front seem to
> identify it as a BJ7. However, there are no roll up windows identifying it as
> a BT7. Any ideas as to what model it is anybody? Is this a Mk II tricarb
> BT7?
>
> Well, just thought there might be some of you out there interested.
>
> Keith Pennell
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 08:11:44 +0000
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock?
However I am beginning to believe that the main problem is at the rear
of the car. We know for example that routing the fuel pipe on the
opposite side to the exhaust as applied to later six cylinder cars
certainly helps but this applies to the rear (suction) as well as the
front (pressure) part of the car.
I am fortunate in having an "official" 15 gallon fuel tank and two
pumps fitted to my 100M. These have independant suction pipes and
isolation switches but meet in a single pipe at the outputs.
In recent years petrol/gasoloine supplied in the UK is more volatile and
my problems have occurred during this time.
What I have noticed on numerous occassions is that I get vapour lock on
one pump and not the other. The problem one is the one closest to the
exhaust!
If we consider the physics, when the fuel is put under pressure it is
unlikely to turn into vapour with rising temperatures. However on the
route from the tank to the pump it is under a reduced pressure condition
which could easily induce a vapourisation condition. The pump would then
only be working on fuel vapour and have no real chance of pumping
liquid.
All I know at present is that the pump fitted nearest the exhaust system
has problems. I have swapped over the pumps to prove the point.
My next step is to fit thermocouples on the suction pipes. I have the
kit but am short of time to install it all. Before I do has anybody any
comments to add.
Incidentally I still subscribe to the theory that some of our problems
take place in the float chambers when the fuel returns to normal
pressure. This I believe is why the full width heat shield is of value.
All the best
>First.7-10lbs??( help me here memory fails me) of fuel pump pressure
>typically prevents fuel lock. Check to see if there is any oil in the carb
>dampers. Unscrew the bolt on the top of each carb and put a little bit of
>Mystery Marvel or other light oil in there.
>As for the shakes, two things, if wire wheels get them trued, check balance
>and thirdly check alignment of the car.
>Welcome to a great "club" of car owners. I.'ve had my BT7 for over 25 years.
>Ira
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 8:05 PM
>Subject: Fw: Vapor Lock?
>
>
>> Hello listers,
>>
>> My first post to the list (after lurking for a few months) was before my
>Dad
>> and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to Temecula, CA to pick up my
>"new"
>> BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and drive the car back... I
>briefly
>> considered this option, but passed for a couple of reasons.
>>
>> First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he has diabetes... if
>anything
>> happened to him, I would never forgive myself ... I thought the trip
>between
>> CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great adventure (for me) BUT, it is a
>49
>> y.o. car!
>>
>> Second, I worried about desert and nothing between here and there, boy was
>I
>> wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and smoothest highway (I-10)
>I've
>> driven... I will do it again and strongly recommend it (in a newer car) to
>> vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's absolutlely
>beautiful...
>> bring a camera.
>>
>> Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I purchased... for these reasons
>> alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking back, this could have
>been a
>> horror story in the making... which leaves me to a couple of questions.
>>
>> A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except, after the car has has
>been
>> warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever... when I restart, she misses
>> like crazy until it cools down to below 190 degrees... is this vapor lock?
>> As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly under the carbs. The
>kind
>> of heat it's putting off, could this be the problem?
>>
>> B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time! What gives? Does anyone
>know
>> someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in Central Texas? Adriane
>and I
>> are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April... I would like to get
>these
>> issues behind me.
>>
>> Thanks IA,
>>
>> Charlie Stewart
>> Georgetown, TX
>> '53 A-H BN1
>> '71 TR-6
>> chadstew@texas.net
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 13:22:47 +0000
Subject: Re: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
I do not quite understand the query here because we already have BN1L
147419 recorded as being built on the 13 November 1953?
Just a suggestion, as we are debating worldwide information could we all
use some form of International date format please. As you know most
people outside the States find the mm/dd/yyyy format very confusing.
More below
>Roland:
>
>Suggest you contact the (Three individual 100) registries and see if they
>have owners of cars with serial numbers close to yours you can compare to.
>On this mailing list I have seen one close below your number and one close
>above your number:
>
>rdenning@stapleton.com.au has: BN1L 147417 produced 11/11/53
>yours has been noted as: BN1L 147419
>bcolins@airmail.net has: BN1L 147455 produced 11/13/53
>
>One would assume that yours was produced on or around 11/12/53.
>
>Think how nice it would be to have a worldwide registry with all the numbers
>and data available to help answer questions like yours.
>
I believe that our UK 100 Register is fast becoming International.
Please see our WEB site for the list of chassis number on which we hold
or know where information is recorded.
>Regards.
>
>Steve
>BN1 Brutus
>Still up on blocks in California
>Target is May, 2004 (50th birthday)
>Gonna go for a drive!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>In a message dated 3/8/02 7:58:25 PM Pacific Standard Time, rwil@cts.com
>writes:
>
><< I am restoring an early BN1, body number 724. Getting ready to
> replace the rear transmission mounts (two donuts on steel plates, with
> threaded steel liners for the 'hole'), I found a spacer below each of
> the mounts. Maybe around 3/16" thick.
>
> These mounts were _not_ BSF threaded, they were UNF, and according to
> my understanding of both the Moss catalog and the Healey parts book,
> when they went to the UNF threaded mounts they did away with the
> spacers. The replacement mounts, from Vicky Brit but with various UK
> suppliers' part numbers on them as well, are the same height as the
> ones I am replacing.
>
> So, was my BN1 wrongly repaired in 1963? Should these spacers have
> been discarded? Or do I need them in order to align the transmission
> to the drive shaft and rear axle? Or, how do I find out if I would be
> better off with the spacers installed?
The information in the Austin Service Journal Volume 25 Gearbox 1 is
very clear. It says that when mountings with UNF threads are fitted the
spacer should be discarded. I would say that this was not done earlier.
The mistake is easy to make if one does not study the parts manual. To
the best of my knowledge no supplier, be it BMC or aftermarket, provides
warning information about the need to discard the spacers. As it happens
this small extra height at the rear of the transmission would give less
than half a degree misaligment of the output shaft. I doubt if this
would cause a problem. The rear axle will rotate far more than this
during acceleration and braking.
All the best
>
> Someone must have sorted out this question before now. All
> experience-sharing appreciated.
>
> -Roland
> BN1 in recovery
> BJ7 driver >>
>
--
John Harper
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From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:18:10 -0500
Subject: newbie query regarding Sprite price
I currently own a '54 100 BN1 and '65 Sprite. I started restoring the
Sprite a few months ago. Have sandblasted (at low pressure) the entire
chassis, much of which has been protected with a base coat of POR-15.
The exterior of the rear suspension has been cleaned and restored. The
car is apart. After I bought the car from a local club member I ran the
engine in the garage before I started this project and it seemed fine.
The transmission I am not sure about. I did not attempt to drive it as
the brakes and clutch were not functional and the car had sat for some
time. The seats, I believe, are from a later model.
My problem: I am in the process of purchasing a home here in Morganton,
NC (my first after years of college and moving about) but it does not
yet have a garage (and will not for about two years). Thus I am trying
to divest myself of projects which will be pushed to a low priority (due
to house restoration projects and the Healey 100 restoration and
maintenance of my XJ6 and old Ford Pickup. I am wondering if $500.00 is
too much to ask for the Sprite. It's basically sound though it needs
rockers and rear fender inner/outer doglegs etc.
Could somebody on the list provide some advice? Though unrelated to
Healeys, I also have an early '74 260Z and '56 Matchless G11CSR 600 twin
to sell as well. I am only too aware that I will not have the time or
energy to complete these projects as well. (also as a neuropsychologist,
I don't think it is likely I will ever ride a motorcycle again anyway.)
Thanks for your consideration.
Sincerely,
Richard Welser
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From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:27:04 -0500
Subject: Re: newbie query regarding Sprite price
www.britishmotorclub.com
sincerely,
richard
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:24:59 EST
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock?
Yes you can get vapor lock with an electrical fuel pump. I don't think vapor
lock is your problem- with vapor lock your engine will just quit! - It
doesn't cause missing until warmed up. Before quitting the pumping clicking
noise usually gets louder.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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from England, Australia, and the United States. This list includes all of the
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 11:01:19 -0500
Subject: Early BN1 information
It is not public.
Bill Wood
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 08:33:38 -0800
Subject: To Paint or Not to Paint -TTQ?
1. Check strap bracket (on door) - it was painted body color but nice chrome
underneath. Should it be left unpainted like the rest of check strap assembly?
2. Door lock striker plate (on shut pillar)? Also previously painted.
3. Lock Plate (on door)? Also previously painted.
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
If at first you don't succeed........ get new batteries.
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 08:47:08 -0800
Subject: Clausager's "Original" Reprint
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland,B.C.
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 11:57:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: newbie query regarding Sprite price
On Sat, 9 Mar 2002 09:27:04 -0500 "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy@earthlink.net>
wrote:
Sorry, I forgot to add that you can see some pics of this Sprite (and
the Matchless) by visiting our club web site at;
www.britishmotorclub.com
sincerely,
richard
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 12:09:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Vapor Lock?
I agree entirely with your conclusions regarding the vapor lock problems
on 100s but feel that it is perhaps more important to emphasize the
importance of keeping the carburetor temperature to the minimum.
Fuel traveling from the float chamber to the jet is very prone to
boiling and when it does, things go very wrong.
The insulation blocks fitted between the manifold and the carburetor to
lessen conducted heat and the heat shield to minimize radiated heat do
help but definitely can be improved upon.
One simple method to determine whether the source of problems is the
carburetor temperature is to pour some ice water over the carburetors
when problems are encountered.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Harper
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 3:12 AM
To: i erbs
Cc: Charlie & Adriane; list healey
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock?
There has been a lot of discussion over the years relating to vapour
lock on 100s. Yes having the engine in good order, not too advanced
ignition, correct thermostat, clean block and radiator etc. are all
important. Various mods have been applied which seem to improve matters
such as a full width heat shield.
However I am beginning to believe that the main problem is at the rear
of the car. We know for example that routing the fuel pipe on the
opposite side to the exhaust as applied to later six cylinder cars
certainly helps but this applies to the rear (suction) as well as the
front (pressure) part of the car.
I am fortunate in having an "official" 15 gallon fuel tank and two
pumps fitted to my 100M. These have independant suction pipes and
isolation switches but meet in a single pipe at the outputs.
In recent years petrol/gasoloine supplied in the UK is more volatile and
my problems have occurred during this time.
What I have noticed on numerous occassions is that I get vapour lock on
one pump and not the other. The problem one is the one closest to the
exhaust!
If we consider the physics, when the fuel is put under pressure it is
unlikely to turn into vapour with rising temperatures. However on the
route from the tank to the pump it is under a reduced pressure condition
which could easily induce a vapourisation condition. The pump would then
only be working on fuel vapour and have no real chance of pumping
liquid.
All I know at present is that the pump fitted nearest the exhaust system
has problems. I have swapped over the pumps to prove the point.
My next step is to fit thermocouples on the suction pipes. I have the
kit but am short of time to install it all. Before I do has anybody any
comments to add.
Incidentally I still subscribe to the theory that some of our problems
take place in the float chambers when the fuel returns to normal
pressure. This I believe is why the full width heat shield is of value.
All the best
>First.7-10lbs??( help me here memory fails me) of fuel pump pressure
>typically prevents fuel lock. Check to see if there is any oil in the
carb
>dampers. Unscrew the bolt on the top of each carb and put a little bit
of
>Mystery Marvel or other light oil in there.
>As for the shakes, two things, if wire wheels get them trued, check
balance
>and thirdly check alignment of the car.
>Welcome to a great "club" of car owners. I.'ve had my BT7 for over 25
years.
>Ira
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 8:05 PM
>Subject: Fw: Vapor Lock?
>
>
>> Hello listers,
>>
>> My first post to the list (after lurking for a few months) was before
my
>Dad
>> and I made a road trip from Georgetown, TX to Temecula, CA to pick up
my
>"new"
>> BN1. I had some who suggested we fly out and drive the car back... I
>briefly
>> considered this option, but passed for a couple of reasons.
>>
>> First, I was concerned about my Dad's health... he has diabetes... if
>anything
>> happened to him, I would never forgive myself ... I thought the trip
>between
>> CA and TX in a 49 yo car would be a great adventure (for me) BUT, it
is a
>49
>> y.o. car!
>>
>> Second, I worried about desert and nothing between here and there,
boy was
>I
>> wrong! What a beautiful drive! The best and smoothest highway
(I-10)
>I've
>> driven... I will do it again and strongly recommend it (in a newer
car) to
>> vacationers! I really can't describe it, but it's absolutlely
>beautiful...
>> bring a camera.
>>
>> Third, I do not know Healeys or the car I purchased... for these
reasons
>> alone, do not attempt a drive like this! Looking back, this could
have
>been a
>> horror story in the making... which leaves me to a couple of
questions.
>>
>> A) It's a stock '53 BN1. Runs perfect, except, after the car has
has
>been
>> warmed up... I may stop for fuel or whatever... when I restart, she
misses
>> like crazy until it cools down to below 190 degrees... is this vapor
lock?
>> As you all know, the exhaust manifold is directly under the carbs.
The
>kind
>> of heat it's putting off, could this be the problem?
>>
>> B) At 62 MPH/70 MPH the car shakes big time! What gives? Does
anyone
>know
>> someone who will "true" the tires and wheels in Central Texas?
Adriane
>and I
>> are going to the Texas Healey Round-Up in April... I would like to
get
>these
>> issues behind me.
>>
>> Thanks IA,
>>
>> Charlie Stewart
>> Georgetown, TX
>> '53 A-H BN1
>> '71 TR-6
>> chadstew@texas.net
>
--
John Harper
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 09:45:19 -0800
Subject: re: Vapor Lock
appears to be a blind address one can't reply to.
:: ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
:: <chadstew@texas.net>
::
:: ----- Transcript of session follows -----
:: ... while talking to mx.texas.net.:
:: >>> MAIL From:<rwil@cts.com>
:: <<< 550 5.7.1 Mail from 209.68.192.66 refused by blackhole site
:blackhole.texas.net
:: 554 <chadstew@texas.net>... Service unavailable
For Charlie's info, some of us reply privately about ten times as
often as in public, particularly on matters that have been covered on
the list before. So if you want information you might consider having
an email address to reply to.
Asking the list's indulgence, here is the message for Charlie:
>If you are repeatedly 'topping up' the dampers you are probably
>pouring oil through your carbs. You only need a little oil in there;
>read the shop and owners manuals. If you overfill it will gum up the
>carb piston as the oil overflows. If you unscrew the top and can
>feel resistance in the plunger, it has enough oil.
>
>You are launched on a series of diagnostic and repair actions when you
>try to solve the front end shakes. (Stop when the problem is gone :-)
>) First make sure that the tires are round, then that the wheels are
>true and the rim is concentric with the hub, then that the wheels are
>balanced, then that there is fluid in the front shocks, then that they
>work as they should,then that the front end is tight and the steering
>isn't worn. Check toe in and wheel bearing torque, too.
>
>Balancing wire wheels requires special equipment. The first
>approximation would be static balance using a bubble balancer. After
>that, you either need to balance the wheels on the car, or find a
>place that has the special fittings to hold the wire wheels on the two
>cone surfaces -- one female, one male, one inboard and one outboard.
>The normal spin balancer mounts won't hold your wheels true as they
>need to be held.
>
>Nobody in Temecula would install a 190 degree thermostat! Just
>replace it anyhow to eliminate a possible cause of overheating.
>You'll need the gaskets, too, of course.
>
>-Roland
>San Diego
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 13:29:14 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
To answer Roland's question, I was suggesting that he get in contact with
owners of cars with serial numbers close to his and find out if they had the
spacers in question, or not, and what the threads were.
The way to get in contact is to go through the registry. (I just had to take
another stab at trying to get a complete worldwide registry).
Your registry is fantastic, but would even be better with information sharing
of the other two registries (that I know of...I still think there must be
someone in Australia that's tracking numbers).
Maybe I'm beating a dead horse.
I only used the serial numbers and dates built from my little list as an
example of how Roland's car was bracketed by those two serial numbers and
dates built. (And one would expect the transmission mount spacers to be
similar).
(Since I didn't have Roland's build date, I was just guessing that it was
bracketed).
And, yes, the date format is confusing. We should all spell out the month
and write the year in full.
Regards.
Steve
BN1 Brutus up on blocks
Going for a ride on 50th birthday
May 26, 2004
In a message dated 3/9/02 5:43:31 AM Pacific Standard Time,
john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< Steve
I do not quite understand the query here because we already have BN1L
147419 recorded as being built on the 13 November 1953?
Just a suggestion, as we are debating worldwide information could we all
use some form of International date format please. As you know most
people outside the States find the mm/dd/yyyy format very confusing.
More below
>Roland:
>
>Suggest you contact the (Three individual 100) registries and see if they
>have owners of cars with serial numbers close to yours you can compare to.
>On this mailing list I have seen one close below your number and one close
>above your number:
>
>rdenning@stapleton.com.au has: BN1L 147417 produced 11/11/53
>yours has been noted as: BN1L 147419
>bcolins@airmail.net has: BN1L 147455 produced 11/13/53
>
>One would assume that yours was produced on or around 11/12/53.
>
>Think how nice it would be to have a worldwide registry with all the
numbers
>and data available to help answer questions like yours. >>
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 15:24:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Clausager's
Is that book really an accurate or worthwhile source? I never thought that was
a book worth purchasing other than for a collector. In other words, if you have
to have every single Healey book good and bad.
Gary Anderson and Roger Moment's book more than adequately fills the need that
Clausager's book purports to fill.
Fred "Dirtbag" Criswell
On Sat, 09 Mar 2002 08:47:08 -0800 Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj@shaw.ca> wrote:
This week I received a message from Amazon.com that Clausager's " Original
Austin-Healey 100, 100-Six & 3000" is being reprinted this month in paperback.
Does anyone on the list know if this will include corrections and updates, etc.?
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 12:35:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Clausager's "Original" Reprint
> This week I received a message from Amazon.com that Clausager's " Original
>Austin-Healey 100, 100-Six & 3000" is being reprinted this month in paperback.
>Does anyone on the list know if this will include corrections and updates,
>etc.? I couldn't get any additional info from their web site.
>
>
That's interesting. I have an outstanding order with Amazon dated 29 Aug, 2001
when it was suppose to be published in Sep, then Dec, then Mar. I wouldn't
hold my breath!
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 16:15:25 -0500
Subject: Clausager's original "Original"
I have an extra copy available of the original "Original" in hardback, with
all its original errors, if anyone is interested. There was some discussion
about the availability of the book, which is out of print, on the list last
year and I found one in excellent condition being sold by a vendor at the
Waynesboro, VA show in October. I have found Clausager to be a valuable
reference, especially because of the colo(u)r photos and production tables,
even if it might have some information that deviates from Concours.
I paid $20 for it, and will let it go to the first person who lets me know
he/she wants it for that, plus shipping which should only be a dollar or
two.
While I'm here, I'd like to say that I just received from lister Dean
Caccavo two brand new BJ8 inner front wheel bearings and the original
owner's handbook for HBJ8L/34530, free of charge. The handbook will be
preserved in the BJ8 registry in case 34530 ever turns up again, in which
case it will be given to the owner. Alert listers will recall Dean's story
of being given a load of spares by the son of an owner whose car (34530) was
totalled. Dean most graciously and generously decided to pass these items
on to people who could use them without trying to capitalize on the
potential profit. He should be an inspiration to all of us. Thanks very
much, Dean!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 21:26:31 +0000
Subject: Re: AH3000 original hard top: plastic or steel?
Peter Dzwig
AH102 wrote:
>Mine are Fibreglass with aluminum trim, vinyl headliner, Perspex rear
>window.
>
>Jim
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 16:23:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
Good grief, guys, the original question is whether the spacers are called
for on this car.
I have before me, a copy of the original Austin Healey 100 Service parts
List, page 12 of Gearbox and Overdrive section.
The spacers are called "packing pieces, number per vehicle 2, part number
1B2862". The application is C.138031-CE.221011. It also indicates that the
early mounts are a part number using and BSF bolts from overdrive to mount.
So if your BN1 is between these chassis numbers, the shims are called for.
Looking further, it appears that the rest of the BN1's used a later mount,
possibly a little taller, but using UNF mounting bolts into a captive UNF
mount thread. As of this introduction, the packing pieces disappear.
Confused now??
Rich Chrysler
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:20:55 -0500
Subject: 100-4 Bonnets
Again, both are steel; one has all the fibre (rubber?) shims under the
expected places, the other has two steel plates (approx. 1 3/4" x 2") spot
welded to the underside of the bonnet, about four inches back from the leading
(front) edge and under the frame. It almost looks like they were intended to
be sprung and provide pressure between the skin and the frame. I say this as
they were spot welded only at the front edge and bent upwards somewhat, when
viewing the skin while it is resting on the outer surface.
Is this an option someone has seen before or a PO's effort at solidifying
the assembly?
I redid an aluminum one earlier and did not find these 'plates'.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Charley
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 22:24:41 -0500
Subject: Clausager's book
Lanny Pace was the first one to get to me with his request for the Clausager
book, so it goes to him. Thanks for all the inquiries. I wish I had a
bunch more of them to distribute, but I'll keep my eyes open for another
copy and when I find another I'll let you know.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
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From "Michael Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 00:22:30 -0500
Subject: Leaky Carbs
Thank you all for your words of welcome. As promised I'll begin my deluge of
questions. It was been quite warm here in New Hampshire lately so I have
taken the "Frankenhealey" out for a few spins (top up and side curtains on).
It runs quite well. I have noticed that it will not stay in gear for very
long if I take my hand off the lever. Any easy remedy here or is this
something that will require the trans out of the car and a large withdrawal
from the bank? Anyway the main problem a very strong gas smell. After a
little investigation I discovered that both carbs were leaking, though each
in a slightly different way. I first noticed that after a short time at idle
the front carb would begin to ooze fuel from around the bolt on top of the
float chamber. If the revs are brought up, even slightly, the ooze stops.
After a short time back at idle it begins again. As for the rear carb, it
does not ooze but rather sprays fuel from the same area. This only happens
after I leave the engine off but the ignition on to let the fuel pump run
for a few seconds. So, does it sound like I need new needle valves and/or
floats in both or could it be something else?
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 21:35:15 -0800
Subject: Need source for steering rubber parts
Would like to know if anyone has a source for these. Thank you.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 00:49:23 -0500
Subject: Have a nu Healey!
I guess you all remember back in late January there was a BN7 in West Virginia
for sale on ebay. It was noted by someone that the seller could probably get
more for the car if he could spell better. The pictures showed a very sad
looking car.
Well, without going into the long story I am now the owner of that BN7, such
as it is.
and whatsmore i can defanitely say that it ain't effected me none. the car is
kinda ruff in fact i would say it is reely ruff. the fella offered to deliver
it for free cause he was comin my way to pick up another car and when he got
hear the car had broken in to cause it was boucing on a traler with no
suspenshun. we lifted the fenders right off with the shrowds, front and reer!
the seems had been bondod smooth can you beleve that? well the seems used to
be smooth the chassi with motor and trasmission rolled down off the traler
with no problem. now i will need to take sum things a part to see what can be
used butt it looks like not much. the fram is history. anybody in need of
some parts reely cheep?
Keith Pennell
Still the sam ole me
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 01:18:25 -0500
Subject: Car adjusting
I am probably the world's worst when it comes to carb adjustment so I need a
bit of guidance on adjusting my friend's HS6 carbs.
This is a newly rebuilt engine .030 over. The carbs are very low milage so
only the jet head assembly was replaced on each. Once a few leaks were
resolved she fired up within about 2 minutes effort. I have followed the
Haynes manual. Spark plugs gapped at .025, pts set at .015, with vacuum line
disconnected set timing with a light so that at 600 rpms the mark is 5/8 inch
before the pointer. Reconnected the vacuum line.
Here the manual leaves a bit to be desired. Used the fast idle adjusting
screw to get the idle to 1000 rpm. I then lifted the pistons the 1/32 as
directed with no apparent effect until I lifted maybe 1/16 then the speed
dropped for both carbs. Turning the jet adjusting nut 3 flats each direction
had the same effect and with turning it up INTO the carb the engine would
almost stop.
The manual says to enrich the mixture turn the jet adjusting nut
anticlociwise, that is upward. This seems to be backward. Doesn't moving the
jet downward increase the flow of fuel, therefore, making the mixture richer?
Where should the top of the jet be in relation to the flat surface of the carb
body?
Also, I am getting very bad run on after shutting the ignition. Why?
Should I recheck the valve clearances?
Thanks for any input
Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:15:09 +0100
Subject: Motor mounts & rear axle o-ring 100-Six
I got some problems with new motormount rubber blocks. I purchased within a
period from
almost 2 years from two different sources (last was AH-Spares) these rubber
blocks. Each
time with the same result: too much space between the "rebound" buffer and the
main mount.
Sure the mounts are off the engine but I can not imagine that the weight of the
engine
will push the rebound block much closer to the main mount. As to the concours
guidelines
there should be a gap of 0.8 mm (thickness of a business card). As you can see
on the
pictures http://www.leute-gmbh.de/moebelteile/leute-s/mh/m.htm
(click on the pictures to get an enlargement and use your browser back tab to
return to
the miniatures)
there is much more space. If I would cut the locating pin in the large block
and mount the
block upside down it would close the gap cosiderably.
Now what to do, shim the rebound block as much as possible (the locating pin
will not be
long enough), use the blocks and forget about the gap, try to find correct ones
??
Anyone with similar experiences ?
Second problem is the o-ring in the rear axle hub. Also ordered within the same
time
period with the same results - too small !! Sure I could go out and try to find
a correct
size from another source, but what is wrong ? I was convinced that within the
100-SIX ->
3000 Healeys the rear axle is mostly identical (brakes and hubs).
BTW my Healey is a late BN4, built 1959, no wire wheels if that matters.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 08:29:58 -0500
Subject: Overdrive
TIA
tom
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 13:34:42 -0000
Subject: Healey in garage on oldish Canadian TV prog
Simon Lachlan.
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon
EX5 4NN.
01392-882248
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 08:49:25 -0500
Subject: RE: Car adjusting
You need to balance the carbs first. Get a Unisyn or the Moss
SU tool kit. The Unisyn measures the air flow while the bits from
the Moss SU kit allow you to match the height of the carb pistons.
1. Whichever you use, you need to start with each carb at a known point.
Remove the pistons so that you can see what you are doing and then
run the jet up until it is level with the bridge. Then adjust it down
six flats. This will not be a perfect mixture, but the engine will
start and run. Put the carbs back together.
2. Loosen the pinch bolts on the cross linkage so that you can
adjust the idle speed on each carb separately.
3. Start the car and synchronize the carbs. When making idle adjustments,
note that there are separate screws for fast idle and idle. Use the screws
which do not push against the fast idle cam.
4. Tighten the pinch bolts on the cross linkage. The manual has a
procedure
where you put a feeler guage between the throttle shaft stop and the intake
manifold. (If you look at the setup, it will be obvious where this is.)
5. Now you can test and adjust the mixture by lifting the pistons. Looking
down from the top, clockwise is richer. Alternate between carbs as you
do this. Don't do more than two flats at a time. Remember, if you get
totally
lost, you can always go back to the six flats down condition and start over.
Good luck,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 1:18 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Car adjusting
Listers,
I am probably the world's worst when it comes to carb adjustment so I need a
bit of guidance on adjusting my friend's HS6 carbs.
This is a newly rebuilt engine .030 over. The carbs are very low milage so
only the jet head assembly was replaced on each. Once a few leaks were
resolved she fired up within about 2 minutes effort. I have followed the
Haynes manual. Spark plugs gapped at .025, pts set at .015, with vacuum
line
disconnected set timing with a light so that at 600 rpms the mark is 5/8
inch
before the pointer. Reconnected the vacuum line.
Here the manual leaves a bit to be desired. Used the fast idle adjusting
screw to get the idle to 1000 rpm. I then lifted the pistons the 1/32 as
directed with no apparent effect until I lifted maybe 1/16 then the speed
dropped for both carbs. Turning the jet adjusting nut 3 flats each
direction
had the same effect and with turning it up INTO the carb the engine would
almost stop.
The manual says to enrich the mixture turn the jet adjusting nut
anticlociwise, that is upward. This seems to be backward. Doesn't moving
the
jet downward increase the flow of fuel, therefore, making the mixture
richer?
Where should the top of the jet be in relation to the flat surface of the
carb
body?
Also, I am getting very bad run on after shutting the ignition. Why?
Should I recheck the valve clearances?
Thanks for any input
Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 00:53:47 +1100
Subject: Re: Motor mounts & rear axle o-ring 100-Six
1. Engine mounts.
The arm which the rebound buffer bolts onto has slotted holes in it where it
bolts to the rest of the engine mount - so you can slide it up or down to
adjust the clearance. Slide it down and you'll get the correct clearance.
2. Rear oil ring O rubber
Stretch it into position - the part looks correct to me - just stretch it
and apply some grease or vaseline to hold it in place. It is an oil seal -
it needs to be tight.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helga & Martin Heim" <hm.heim@t-online.de>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 12:15 AM
Subject: Motor mounts & rear axle o-ring 100-Six
> Dear Healey listers,
>
> I got some problems with new motormount rubber blocks. I purchased within
a period from
> almost 2 years from two different sources (last was AH-Spares) these
rubber blocks. Each
> time with the same result: too much space between the "rebound" buffer and
the main mount.
> Sure the mounts are off the engine but I can not imagine that the weight
of the engine
> will push the rebound block much closer to the main mount. As to the
concours guidelines
> there should be a gap of 0.8 mm (thickness of a business card). As you can
see on the
> pictures http://www.leute-gmbh.de/moebelteile/leute-s/mh/m.htm
> (click on the pictures to get an enlargement and use your browser back tab
to return to
> the miniatures)
> there is much more space. If I would cut the locating pin in the large
block and mount the
> block upside down it would close the gap cosiderably.
> Now what to do, shim the rebound block as much as possible (the locating
pin will not be
> long enough), use the blocks and forget about the gap, try to find correct
ones ??
> Anyone with similar experiences ?
>
> Second problem is the o-ring in the rear axle hub. Also ordered within the
same time
> period with the same results - too small !! Sure I could go out and try to
find a correct
> size from another source, but what is wrong ? I was convinced that within
the 100-SIX ->
> 3000 Healeys the rear axle is mostly identical (brakes and hubs).
>
> BTW my Healey is a late BN4, built 1959, no wire wheels if that matters.
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:17:25 EST
Subject: Re: Motor mounts & rear axle o-ring 100-Six
Martin,
As a BN4 owner I learned that the O ring is larger than the later models. I
can't offer any advice on where to buy one in Germany but I would like to add
my .02 on how I know that fact. I tried installing a spare new one I had for
my BJ8 on the BN4 and it did not work.
So I called Inan and asked why. (It was a week before Conclave and I had
sprung a leak) and she explained it to me. Parts were received in two days.
I always buy my parts from people who actually work on cars as well as sell
parts and rely on their experience and help. David Nock, Inan Phillips, Doug
Reid, Suzy's friend Ed are just a few of the small operators who have
invaluable first hand experience. They actually install the parts they sell.
So I always try to support those who support our hobby and have sorted out
the good parts from the bad and know our cars first hand.
Just my .02 worth
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 08:37:13 -0600
Subject: Vapor Lock
I just got in from San Antonio visiting inlaws and read my email.
I have a 3" X 3" metal plate between the back carb/float bowl and the exhaust
manifold... the first carb/float bowl doesn't have anything between the two...
so, from the advice I received, I would say I need to fabricate something to
protect that area from the manifold. Anyone have advice on what to use? I
would think it needs to be pliable and non-flamable... brilliant deduction,
huh :) Was this a stock item or something Healey people added as needed?
What is the normal operating temperature for a 100-4... I thought I read
somewhere up to 194 degrees was the high end of normal.
As for the shake, I will first have the tires spin balanced and see if that
will take care of the problem... if not, I have my heart set on 60 spoke
chrome wires :)
I'll let you guys know how I rectify the miss.
Take care,
Charlie Stewart
G'town, TX
chadstew@texas.net (not a blind or blocked email address, except for arrogant
smarty pants)
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:48:32 EST
Subject: Re: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
This is a better answer. No further research involved.
Steve
BN1L 156610 Brutus
Up on blocks
Should have the packing pieces
In a message dated 3/9/02 1:26:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
<< Good grief, guys, the original question is whether the spacers are called
for on this car.
I have before me, a copy of the original Austin Healey 100 Service parts
List, page 12 of Gearbox and Overdrive section.
The spacers are called "packing pieces, number per vehicle 2, part number
1B2862". The application is C.138031-CE.221011. >>
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:36:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive
Jim
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:08:49 -0500
Subject: Cape International's rear overrider conversion kit
I bought and am trying to install one of Cape International's
rear overrider conversion kits and am having an issue. When installed,
the rear trunk/boot lid is unable to be opened or closed due to the
overriders being in the way. Has anyone else installed this kit and how
did they get around this problem?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:51:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Healey Boat
Location-Sioux City, IA
Here is a chance to own a real rare piece of Austin Healey History.
This is an un-restored, 1958 Healey Marine Type 55. The boat is in
excellent condition for its age. It is also remarkably complete. Only a
handful of these are known to exist. The boat is powered by an inboard
1500cc BMC B series Engine, coupled to a Healey Marine direct drive
transmission. Both in excellent working order. The wood structure of
the boat is also in excellent condition and virtually free of any rot
or dry rot. The gauges, steering wheel, and both brass plaques are
still present, and in great shape. The windscreen is faded but useable.
The Lucas fog lamps are still mounted as it should be. The boat has it
original trailer as well. It would only take minor work to make this
ultra rare Healey seaworthy again. This would be just the thing to take
to the Tahoe Conclave this year to celebrate the big anniversary! Also
included with the sale of the boat tonnau covers, books, & all the
literature available, relative to this Marine Masterpiece, dont
hesitate on this one. As this opportunity will not repeat it self! The
marine projects were one of Donald Healeys Favorite and Enjoyable.
pictures to be added and more avaliable upon request.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Find, Connect, Date! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "David Neale" <dneale13 at attbi.com>
From: David Neale
To: Austin Healey
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:45:52 -0800
Subject: BJ8 Meltdown
I disconnected the battery terminals as well as the cut off switch in order to
re-carpet the trunk. I also dismantled, removed and replaced the gas tank.
After dismantling the cut-off switch to clean the connections, I reassembled
and reconnected all terminals. Positive Ground.
However, when starting the engine the positive ground lead gets very hot, to
the point that the lead positive terminal attached to the battery terminal
melts. Starter motor has a slow turn over.
Any ideas about what is happening?
Thanks in advance.
David Neale.
BJ8
BN7
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:47:23 -0800
Subject: Healey Boat
> Good moringing; I've just finished my daily check of eBay and came
> across the following auction for a Healey Sports Boat Type'55'.
> Enjoy!
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 1958 Austin Healey Sports boat 55; Item # 1811699443; Ends Mar-19-02;
>
> Location-Sioux City, IA
> Here is a chance to own a real rare piece of Austin Healey History.
> This is an un-restored, 1958 Healey Marine Type 55. The boat is in
> excellent condition for its age. It is also remarkably complete. Only a
> handful of these are known to exist. The boat is powered by an inboard
> 1500cc BMC B series Engine, coupled to a Healey Marine direct drive
> transmission. Both in excellent working order. The wood structure of
> the boat is also in excellent condition and virtually free of any rot
> or dry rot. The gauges, steering wheel, and both brass plaques are
> still present, and in great shape. The windscreen is faded but useable.
> The Lucas fog lamps are still mounted as it should be. The boat has it
> original trailer as well. It would only take minor work to make this
> ultra rare Healey seaworthy again. This would be just the thing to take
> to the Tahoe Conclave this year to celebrate the big anniversary! Also
> included with the sale of the boat tonnau covers, books, & all the
> literature available, relative to this Marine Masterpiece, dont
> hesitate on this one. As this opportunity will not repeat it self! The
> marine projects were one of Donald Healeys Favorite and Enjoyable.
> pictures to be added and more avaliable upon request.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> =====
> J. Scott Morris
> Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:58:24 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive
<< It would go instantly into OD when I
flipped the switch, but would take a long time---from 3 or 4 seconds to a
1/2 minute to disengage when the switch was flipped to normal. I have a new
solenoid. Any guess as to what happened?
TIA
tom >>
The overdrive doesn't disengage in relation to only that switch. Remember
there is a throttle switch too. When shifting down, it's natural to use less
throttle, but the throttle switch won't let the overdrive off if it's in the
wrong position. A quick "blip" of the pedal should do it if the switch is
adjusted right. If the behaviour just changed, the switch may have moved. The
lever can spin out of adjustment on the switch axle.
Rick
San Diego
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:24:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Motor mounts & rear axle o-ring 100-Six
thanks for the advice but:
1.) I'm sorry, but my engine mount brackets don't have any slotted holes to
adjust the
rebound buffer height. You refer to the pieces visible on pict. 4 + 6 I guess.
This piece
has no slots to the rubber block.
2.) The O-ring snaps back if you try to stretch it into the groove, it is just
too small .
Best regards
Martin
"Chris Dimmock" wrote:
> 1. Engine mounts.
>
> The arm which the rebound buffer bolts onto has slotted holes in it where it
> bolts to the rest of the engine mount - so you can slide it up or down to
> adjust the clearance. Slide it down and you'll get the correct clearance.
>
> 2. Rear oil ring O rubber
>
> Stretch it into position - the part looks correct to me - just stretch it
> and apply some grease or vaseline to hold it in place. It is an oil seal -
> it needs to be tight.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:30:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Boat
Bob
----------
>From: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
>To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
>Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Healey Boat
>Date: Sun, Mar 10, 2002, 9:47 AM
>
> I saw a restored Healey boat at last year's all brittish field meet in
> Portland, OR. Beautiful boat. Kind of on the smallish side though.
> Ira 59BT7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
> To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 8:51 AM
> Subject: Healey Boat
>
>
>> Good moringing; I've just finished my daily check of eBay and came
>> across the following auction for a Healey Sports Boat Type'55'.
>> Enjoy!
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 1958 Austin Healey Sports boat 55; Item # 1811699443; Ends Mar-19-02;
>>
>> Location-Sioux City, IA
>> Here is a chance to own a real rare piece of Austin Healey History.
>> This is an un-restored, 1958 Healey Marine Type 55. The boat is in
>> excellent condition for its age. It is also remarkably complete. Only a
>> handful of these are known to exist. The boat is powered by an inboard
>> 1500cc BMC B series Engine, coupled to a Healey Marine direct drive
>> transmission. Both in excellent working order. The wood structure of
>> the boat is also in excellent condition and virtually free of any rot
>> or dry rot. The gauges, steering wheel, and both brass plaques are
>> still present, and in great shape. The windscreen is faded but useable.
>> The Lucas fog lamps are still mounted as it should be. The boat has it
>> original trailer as well. It would only take minor work to make this
>> ultra rare Healey seaworthy again. This would be just the thing to take
>> to the Tahoe Conclave this year to celebrate the big anniversary! Also
>> included with the sale of the boat tonnau covers, books, & all the
>> literature available, relative to this Marine Masterpiece, dont
>> hesitate on this one. As this opportunity will not repeat it self! The
>> marine projects were one of Donald Healeys Favorite and Enjoyable.
>> pictures to be added and more avaliable upon request.
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> =====
>> J. Scott Morris
>> Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:59:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock
:: For those who replied with positive and constructive responses re: a miss and
:: a shake... John, Larry, Bob, Ira, Steve and Robert.... Thank You!
[snip]
:: Charlie Stewart
:: G'town, TX
:: chadstew@texas.net (not a blind or blocked email address, except for
:arrogant
:: smarty pants)
I don't know what I have done to deserve a comment like that. I have
tried three times to reply to Charlie. Twice to postings to the list
and one to a direct email asking about my BN1. All three replies of
mine have bounced with a diagnostic like the one I got today, quoted
below. What part of 'permanent fatal flaws' and 'service unavailable'
don't I understand?
Has anyone been able to make contact with Charlie directly via email?
I have tried, failed, and apparently made Charlie angry.
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
>The original message was received at Sat, 9 Mar 2002 12:53:44 -0800 (PST)
>from rwil.cts.com [204.94.80.235]
>
> ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
><chadstew@texas.net>
>
> ----- Transcript of session follows -----
>... while talking to mx.texas.net.:
>>>> MAIL From:<rwil@cts.com>
><<< 550 5.7.1 Mail from 209.68.192.66 refused by blackhole site
>blackhole.texas.net
>554 <chadstew@texas.net>... Service unavailable
>
>
>Final-Recipient: RFC822; chadstew@texas.net
>Action: failed
>Status: 5.0.0
>Remote-MTA: DNS; mx.texas.net
>Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 5.7.1 Mail from 209.68.192.66 refused by blackhole
>site blackhole.texas.net
>Last-Attempt-Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 12:53:46 -0800 (PST)
>
>To: "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew@texas.net>
>Subject: Re: Early BN1 rear tranny mount spacers, needed or not?
>From: Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
>Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 12:56:43 -0800
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From "Michael Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:35:11 -0500
Subject: RE: Leaky Carbs
I opened up both float chambers and there are no fiber washers under there.
Here is the order that things were, top down: cap nut, a metal washer,
support bracket to manifold, chamber lid, black rubber gasket. This doesn't
seem right to me. However, when I look at Moss or VB I can't seem to find
any indication of a fiber washer either. Can anyone tell me the proper
assembly here? I also discovered something odd: The two chamber lids are
different. The rear carbs inlet is to the outside (down when looking down on
it from the drivers side) but the front is to the inside, toward the engine.
The rear appears to be the way I see it in all of the books. Is the front
lid another "Frankenhealey" situation where it is from a BN4 or something?
--Michael
'55 BN1 (and various other mystery bits)
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 12:53 AM
To: Michael Williams
Subject: Re: Leaky Carbs
> Hello All,
>
> Thank you all for your words of welcome. As promised I'll begin my deluge
of
> questions. It was been quite warm here in New Hampshire lately so I have
> taken the "Frankenhealey" out for a few spins (top up and side curtains
on).
> It runs quite well. I have noticed that it will not stay in gear for very
> long if I take my hand off the lever. Any easy remedy here or is this
> something that will require the trans out of the car and a large
withdrawal
> from the bank? Anyway the main problem a very strong gas smell. After a
> little investigation I discovered that both carbs were leaking, though
each
> in a slightly different way. I first noticed that after a short time at
idle
> the front carb would begin to ooze fuel from around the bolt on top of the
> float chamber. If the revs are brought up, even slightly, the ooze stops.
> After a short time back at idle it begins again. As for the rear carb, it
> does not ooze but rather sprays fuel from the same area. This only happens
> after I leave the engine off but the ignition on to let the fuel pump run
> for a few seconds. So, does it sound like I need new needle valves and/or
> floats in both or could it be something else?
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1
Michael,
Sounds to me like the fiber washers beneath those float bowls are missing or
deteriorated. Whatever the case I would resolve this ASAP because as you
have noticed the carbs are right above the downpipes!
Keith Pennell
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From "Michael Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:48:23 -0500
Subject: RE: Leaky Carbs
There isn't any gasket at the top of the float chamber (unless you mean
between the lid and the chamber itself, in which case there is but this is
not where the leak is coming from). There is only the cap nut, metal washer,
bracket, and then the lid itself.
I guess I am thinking jet/float because I don't see why if these are working
correctly that there should be any overflow to leak (or in the case of the
rear carb, spray!) out of this location. Shouldn't the float be contacting
the lever, closing the jet, and preventing any further fuel flow? And I
really don't understand why there should be so much fuel and pressure to
cause the geyser out of the rear carb.
--Michael
'55 BN1
-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:rwil@cts.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 1:32 AM
To: Michael Williams
Subject: Re: Leaky Carbs
It isn't the needle valves that need replacing it is the gasket at the
top of the float chamber. And just maybe you only need to loosen the
bolt and then tighten it again. You might also need to adjust the
float valves, not replace them. You should also look to see if the
manifold drain tubes (two little tubes) are draining gas from the
intake manifold. That would indicate that your needle valves (float
valves) needed cleaning, adjustment, or possibly replacement.
-Roland
On Sun, 10 Mar 2002 00:22:30 -0500, "Michael Williams"
<michaelwilliams@attbi.com> wrote:
:: After a
:: little investigation I discovered that both carbs were leaking, though
each
:: in a slightly different way. I first noticed that after a short time at
idle
:: the front carb would begin to ooze fuel from around the bolt on top of
the
:: float chamber. If the revs are brought up, even slightly, the ooze stops.
:: After a short time back at idle it begins again. As for the rear carb, it
:: does not ooze but rather sprays fuel from the same area. This only
happens
:: after I leave the engine off but the ignition on to let the fuel pump run
:: for a few seconds. So, does it sound like I need new needle valves and/or
:: floats in both or could it be something else?
::
:: --Michael
:: '55 BN1
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From Rod Daulton <rdaulton3 at comcast.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:12:49 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Meltdown
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:41:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Leaky Carbs
Some possible causes: leaky (drowned) float, stuck float, stuck or
dirty float valve. You can easily check the float, and adjust the
float height per specs in the manual. same for checking the float
valve operation to see that it shuts off when it should. If the valve
just won't work right, maybe then it is time for a replacement.
You don't have a nonstandard fuel pump do you? one that puts out more
than the requisite couple of psi? SU carbs can't tolerate high fuel
pressures and the float valves will leak just like yours is doing if
they get too much pressure.
-Roland
On Sun, 10 Mar 2002 14:48:23 -0500, "Michael Williams"
<michaelwilliams@attbi.com> wrote:
:: Roland,
::
:: There isn't any gasket at the top of the float chamber (unless you mean
:: between the lid and the chamber itself, in which case there is but this is
:: not where the leak is coming from). There is only the cap nut, metal washer,
:: bracket, and then the lid itself.
::
:: I guess I am thinking jet/float because I don't see why if these are working
:: correctly that there should be any overflow to leak (or in the case of the
:: rear carb, spray!) out of this location. Shouldn't the float be contacting
:: the lever, closing the jet, and preventing any further fuel flow? And I
:: really don't understand why there should be so much fuel and pressure to
:: cause the geyser out of the rear carb.
::
:: --Michael
:: '55 BN1
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From "Michael Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:41:57 -0500
Subject: Leaky Carbs: Update
--Michael
'55 BN1
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 16:19:55 -0600
Subject: slow OD disengagement
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From "bc1" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 15:15:17 -0600
Subject: Wanted: big healey V8 Conversion
Preferably a 100-4 but will consider a 100-6 or a 3000.
I have a complete 53 100-4 to trade but not necessary. Might also consider
doing some trading on my 61 MKI 3000 that I am just completing an 8 year
long restoration on.
As I am an independent auto dealer, I would also be open to locating any
specific car ortruck to trade you for your Healey V8. (I routinely attend
manufacturer auctions to locate Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Volvo, as well as
domestic makes for buyers all around the country)
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:33:34 -0800
Subject: contact
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From "Michael Williams" <michaelwilliams at attbi.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:22:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Leakey Carbs: Update
I've had a look at the fuel pump and it certainly isn't stock. In fact It
looks nothing like anything in any of the books/catalogs. It is almost a
perfect cylinder, mounted vertically with a bracket and two screws. It
appears to be brass or at least brass colored. It has 3 fittings sticking
out the side, spaced evenly from top to bottom. Inlet at the bottom,
electrical in the middle, and outlet at the top. It seems also to have some
sort of bayonet opening cap at the bottom. I can see no identifying markings
or numbers at all. Any ideas on what it might be? How would I go about
measuring the output pressure to see if this is contributing to my problems?
What would the pressure be from a stock pump?
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1 (mostly)
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:53:41 -0500
Subject: Have a nu Healey!
Heard
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:06:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Leakey Carbs: Update
1) Non-oem pumps are fine as long as they don't pump
too hard. If they pump too hard they'll overide the
cuttoff ability of the float jets and run gas
continuously out the overflow tubes. You should be
running between 1.5 to 4 psi on this pump. A good
visual check is to take the fuel hose off the carbs &
turn on your ignition - the fuel should come out the
hose in a very light, but steady stream. If it is
coming out with any force whatsoever, it is too
strong. A inline fuel pressure regulator will help
solve this problem if you are concerned about the
strength of it.
2) Your bad float is the likely culprit regarding your
leaky carbs. Fix it!
3) Grose jets are great... if they work. I put grose
jets on my BJ8 15 years ago and they never failed me.
I then went out and bought new grose jets about a year
ago and both of them were shutting off the fuel flow
all the time - driving me absolutely nuts. I think
the manufacturing quality of Grose jets are a little
all over the place... which is unfortunate as they are
a better set up than the original jets. You can buy
them but be prepared to be completely chuffed if they
work, or positively fuming if they don't.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Williams <michaelwilliams@attbi.com>
wrote:
> OK,
>
> I've had a look at the fuel pump and it certainly
> isn't stock. In fact It
> looks nothing like anything in any of the
> books/catalogs. It is almost a
> perfect cylinder, mounted vertically with a bracket
> and two screws. It
> appears to be brass or at least brass colored. It
> has 3 fittings sticking
> out the side, spaced evenly from top to bottom.
> Inlet at the bottom,
> electrical in the middle, and outlet at the top. It
> seems also to have some
> sort of bayonet opening cap at the bottom. I can see
> no identifying markings
> or numbers at all. Any ideas on what it might be?
> How would I go about
> measuring the output pressure to see if this is
> contributing to my problems?
> What would the pressure be from a stock pump?
>
> --Michael Williams
> '55 BN1 (mostly)
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
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From MRSTRAB at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 21:16:58 EST
Subject: Jump starting
I have a 67 BJ8 (bought this last summer) which I am having trouble starting.
I just had my generator rebuild and regulator checked and it started and ran
fine this last weekend after re-installing everything. This weekend the
starter turned over fine initially - but didn't start- had been sitting a
week- then starter would only turn over very slowly - still wouldn't start.
I tied to jump start with my 85 RX-7, but no change - why isn't starter
turning over quicker with the jump? The BJ8 had been converted to negative
ground (how can I be sure?)
If it is battery related -- what replacement battery have people been using??
Would appreciate help!
Mike
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:16:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Boat
> I currently have the complete dash out of a Healey boat a friend of mine
> destroyed back in the 80's in the Big Bear lake area near L.A. the boat was
> an inboard as noted below. Several of the Luscas fuse block etc on the back
> of the dash lool just the same as the cars.
>
> Bob
>
Hi Bob,
At our club's California Healey Week in Big Bear a couple of years back, part
of
the festivities was a tour boat ride around the lake. When the Captain heard we
all had Austin-Healeys, he stated that many years ago he owned a Healey boat.
Was this your friend? If so, what a small world!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 20:18:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Jump starting
All healeys are sensitive to the cranking power of the
battery. Running old or worn out batteries will
ALWAYS give you this kind of problem - and will put
alot of stress on your generator and regulator. My
rule-of-thumb experience has been if the generator,
regulator, or battery goes, you have to fix or replace
them all otherwise it'll all go bad again very
quickly.
I'd highly suggest getting one of those new Excide
Orbital batteries - I have one in my BJ8 and it kicks
major ass, to put it mildly - they don't leak or
vaporize acid at all (you can actually turn the thing
upsidedown - it doesn't leak):
http://www.exide.com/products/trans/productdetail/orbital_automotive_starting.html
It's about twice the price of a normal battery, but so
far it has really improved the starting and the
generator seems to charge it just fine. To be honest
I bought because I'm just plain blasted tired of
putting leaky batteries in my boot!!
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- MRSTRAB@aol.com wrote:
> List,
>
> I have a 67 BJ8 (bought this last summer) which I am
> having trouble starting.
> I just had my generator rebuild and regulator
> checked and it started and ran
> fine this last weekend after re-installing
> everything. This weekend the
> starter turned over fine initially - but didn't
> start- had been sitting a
> week- then starter would only turn over very slowly
> - still wouldn't start.
>
> I tied to jump start with my 85 RX-7, but no change
> - why isn't starter
> turning over quicker with the jump? The BJ8 had been
> converted to negative
> ground (how can I be sure?)
>
> If it is battery related -- what replacement battery
> have people been using??
>
> Would appreciate help!
>
> Mike
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 21:55:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Leakey Carbs: Update
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 22:32:49 +0000
Subject: John Loftus
I lost your email address. Please contact me off list - I want to send
you an email. Thanks!
Rich
BT7
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From Kbah100 at cs.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:30:25 EST
Subject: Re: changing the VIN back to original?
My .02 cents worth
Ken Beck
BJ7
BJ8
BN1
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 08:40:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Leaky Carbs
Randy Cooper
Morgantown, WV
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:13:47 EST
Subject: Re: Jump starting
A good place to start solving the problem would be to check that the ground
strap is in good condition , tigtly connected , and clean. All electical
connections to the starter and solenoid also!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
a
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:26:36 -0800
Subject: Need Source for Steering Rubber Parts
Would like to know if anyone has a source for these. Thank you.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 07:45:48 -0800
Subject: Re: To Paint or Not to Paint - TTQ??
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland,B.C.
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:55:38 -0800
Subject: Radio
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:16:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Radio
Steve
61 BN7
>Hi everyone,
>Here is an easy one I'm sure. Want to put a am/fm cd player in my BJ7. I am
>going to suspend it under my heater box with an inline fuse and run the
>wireing directly back to the battery. Is there an easier and/or safer or
>better way of doing this? I want to avoid getting a unit to reverse
polarity
>back to negative ground. Is there a way of connecting it to any other power
>source in the engine compartment (this would certainly be quicker thatn
>running wires under the car or inder the carpeting). Any advice is always
>welcome.
>Guy G.
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:48:23 +0000
Subject: RE: Radio
- Chinese Proverb
> Hi Guy,
> Been there, done that, didn't like it. I used a negative ground
> radio in a positive ground car. I had everything isolated, radio, speakers..
> but didn't isolate the antenna. Wow.. they were some really big sparks when
> I placed the antenna against the fender. Good thing I was only trying to
> locate a nice spot before drilling. I removed it all, figured it wasn't
> worth the hassle. If I need a radio, I use a battery operated boom box on
> the ledge behind my seat. Mostly I just enjoy listening to the exhaust note
> as I shift through the gears, ahhh, music to the ears.... ;-)
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
>
> >Hi everyone,
> >Here is an easy one I'm sure. Want to put a am/fm cd player in my BJ7. I am
> >going to suspend it under my heater box with an inline fuse and run the
> >wireing directly back to the battery. Is there an easier and/or safer or
> >better way of doing this? I want to avoid getting a unit to reverse
> polarity
> >back to negative ground. Is there a way of connecting it to any other power
> >source in the engine compartment (this would certainly be quicker thatn
> >running wires under the car or inder the carpeting). Any advice is always
> >welcome.
> >Guy G.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:09:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Jump starting
John Snyder
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:43:11 -0800
Subject: radio WOW
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From "Eyvind Larssen" <seel at online.no>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:26:32 +0100
Subject: Re: radio
Hi,
got a radio/casetteplayer in my pos. ground. BT7. Built it into a wooden casing
including speakers and put it between the heater and the gearhousing. Connected
the pos. ground from car to positive lead on sound system and neg. lead from
car to neg. ground on system. The antenna; just cut the wire and reverse the
center/shield. I have NO problems. Its easy to remove if desired; two leads and
an antenna.
Eyvind Larssen 60BT7
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:50:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: HOT MK1 - Nice car - Are you on the list?
Seeing you on the road made me jealous that I didn't
drive mine to work, but I will tomorrow!
Dean
BN7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:59:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Radio
My advise is this....Switch over to negative ground. I'ts quite simple on a
BJ7 because you don't have the electronic tach. Just make sure you have a
neg. ground fuel pump, swap the battery leads, swap the coil primary wires,
and flash the field on the dynamo.
Get a good sound system with lots of watts....this means good speakers and
perhaps an auxillary amplifier, otherwise you'll get lots of distortion when
you crank it up over the sound of the wind, traffic, and that great Healey
exhaust.
Good Luck,
Jim
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:43:54 -0800
Subject: Thank you
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:44:02 EST
Subject: Re: Need Source for Steering Rubber Parts
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:48:05 -0500
Subject: Re:Ammeter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:47:15 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:06:51 EST
Subject: Re: Need Source for Steering Rubber Parts
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:07:54 EST
Subject: Re: radio WOW
Dick North
BJ8
TR3
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:25:58 +0000
Subject: Re: radio WOW
Can you give some contact details for J C Whitney? I don't know of a
source here in the UK, but I'm sure they would be able to supply by post
from the US.
If anyone knows of a source of these things here in the UK, I'd be
pleased to hear.
Thanks
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:50:07 EST
Subject: two restoration questions 59 BN4
1. On the bottom of the dash for the whole length there is a chrome piece
over the edge that has about 3/8 inch showing....I am assuming the previous
owner has added this,but thought I'd ask before pulling this off to send the
dash to Heritage to be covered.
2. Frame is in paint booth being painted...under the indoor colored
flourescent lights the color is veeerrry yellow. Took a piece being painted
outside in the sun light and it looked OK. Does that sound OK? Makes me
nervious. Dupont paint man said there are two old english whites, this being
the earlier one (used on various makes from 55 til 69), and a later one (used
from 62? on) that is even more yellow !?!
Thanks for any help!
Bill
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:23:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Radio
VERY BAD IDEA!! Most radio boxes are grounded meaning
you have a very high probability of sparking or
shorting from the radio box to your car's chassis, no
matter how may precautions you take. The only way
around it is to do one of two things:
1) By a power inverter from someplace like JC
Whitney. This will allow the radio box and your car's
chassis to share the same ground potential.
2) Convert your BJ7 to negative ground. This is easy
to do in a BJ7 (frankly, easier than mounting a power
inverter & cheaper) and the proceedure has been
written many times on this list (check archives).
Cheers & Good luck -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Guy Guarino <guymark.studios@snet.net> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> Here is an easy one I'm sure. Want to put a am/fm cd
> player in my BJ7. I am
> going to suspend it under my heater box with an
> inline fuse and run the
> wireing directly back to the battery. Is there an
> easier and/or safer or
> better way of doing this? I want to avoid getting a
> unit to reverse polarity
> back to negative ground. Is there a way of
> connecting it to any other power
> source in the engine compartment (this would
> certainly be quicker thatn
> running wires under the car or inder the carpeting).
> Any advice is always
> welcome.
> Guy G.
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:45:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1811699443
> It's too bad you can no longer add the pictures to your item now that there
>is a bid. It is also too bad that you can't be bothered to send any pictures
>out. It sounds to me like you probably either don't have a Healey boat or your
>boat is knowingly in much worse condition than you say.
> --------------------
>
> Question from: watch-hound
> Title of item: Austin Healey : Sports boat
> Seller: healeywk
> Starts: Mar-09-02 15:38:54 PST
> Ends: Mar-19-02 15:38:54 PST
> Price: Currently $5,000.00
> To view the item, go to:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1811699443
>
> Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:44:46 -0600
Subject: Re: two restoration questions 59 BN4
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:52:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1811699443
He reposted it.
------------------------------
At 05:45 PM 3/11/2002, you wrote:
>I sent the following to guy (or gal) with the Healey boat on ebay after
>giving up on pictures from him (or her). Did anybody get any pics from
>him(or her)
>
>
>
> > It's too bad you can no longer add the pictures to your item now that
> there is a bid. It is also too bad that you can't be bothered to send any
> pictures out. It sounds to me like you probably either don't have a
> Healey boat or your boat is knowingly in much worse condition than you say.
> > --------------------
> >
> > Question from: watch-hound
> > Title of item: Austin Healey : Sports boat
> > Seller: healeywk
> > Starts: Mar-09-02 15:38:54 PST
> > Ends: Mar-19-02 15:38:54 PST
> > Price: Currently $5,000.00
> > To view the item, go to:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1811699443
> >
> > Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at
> http://www.ebay.com
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:11:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1811699443
But seriusly, for those who are not experienced with eBay, unless you have
other means and webspace on another server outside of eBay, the system does not
allow the addition of pictures after you post the auction.
Fred Criswell
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:45:05 -0600 "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
I sent the following to guy (or gal) with the Healey boat on ebay after giving
up on pictures from him (or her). Did anybody get any pics from him(or her)
> It's too bad you can no longer add the pictures to your item now that there
>is a bid. It is also too bad that you can't be bothered to send any pictures
>out. It sounds to me like you probably either don't have a Healey boat or your
>boat is knowingly in much worse condition than you say.
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:19:17 EST
Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #1811699443
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:44:26 -0500
Subject: trivia
Some trivia I discovered today, Question is ... What is a Dunlopillo ?
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:03:57 -0600
Subject: Re: trivia
bjcap wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Some trivia I discovered today, Question is ... What is a Dunlopillo ?
>
> Easy one,
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:02:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaky Carbs
Bill Lawrence
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Yep Michael you're right about the overflow/spray. I just took a look
> at my H4 carbs, in a box where I put them a couple of years ago
> awaiting restoration of my BN1. But there should be a red fiber
> gasket or washer first thing on top of the lid and under the metal
> washer. It is smaller in diameter than the ones that should be on the
> banjo bolts. Mine came in the kit from Moss. If you look at the
> surface of the lid top where the washers should be, you should see a
> notch. That is what passes for an overflow tube on H4 carbs, and
> you're right it shouldn't normally have gas flowing out of it.
>
> Some possible causes: leaky (drowned) float, stuck float, stuck or
> dirty float valve. You can easily check the float, and adjust the
> float height per specs in the manual. same for checking the float
> valve operation to see that it shuts off when it should. If the valve
> just won't work right, maybe then it is time for a replacement.
>
> You don't have a nonstandard fuel pump do you? one that puts out more
> than the requisite couple of psi? SU carbs can't tolerate high fuel
> pressures and the float valves will leak just like yours is doing if
> they get too much pressure.
>
> -Roland
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:26:03 -0800
Subject: Centrifugal Advance
I took my distributor out yesterday for service and found that the
centrifugal advance mechanism was frozen. After liberal doses of WD40 and a
lot of wiggling I finally got it to move through its full range of motion.
However, it is not free enough to be moved with the weights and springs
alone. There is a fair amount of rust on the shaft and springs (The car had
been sitting idle for 25 years when I bought it last year). What is the
best way to free it up?
I removed the screw on top of the distributor cam but could not separate
the cam from the shaft. Am I missing something?
None of the catalogs that I have (4) list parts for the distributor other
than tune up parts. Is there a source for the springs, etc? How have
others delt with these problems?
Thanks in advance (centrifugal, of course),
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:18:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Leakey Carbs: Update
The bad news is that it probably produces way too much pressure.
If you want to keep it you can buy an aftermarket pressure regulator that will
allow you to set the system pressure down to a more usable level.
Bill Lawrence
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> In a separate message, I told Michael that I believe that he is describing a
> Bendix Electric fuel pump. The model number, voltage, and polarity are
> stamped on the mounting bracket. Model 476 090 is 12 volt, positive ground,
> and model 477 060 is 12 volt negative ground. Pressure is not shown so that
> will have to be measured
> with a gauge or by other means.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:34:33 -0700
Subject: Re: trivia
Next question?
Bill Lawrence
bjcap wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Some trivia I discovered today, Question is ... What is a Dunlopillo ?
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:46:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Vapor Lock
Bill Lawrence
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> For those who replied with positive and constructive responses re: a miss and
> a shake... John, Larry, Bob, Ira, Steve and Robert.... Thank You!
>
> I just got in from San Antonio visiting inlaws and read my email.
>
> I have a 3" X 3" metal plate between the back carb/float bowl and the exhaust
> manifold... the first carb/float bowl doesn't have anything between the two...
> so, from the advice I received, I would say I need to fabricate something to
> protect that area from the manifold. Anyone have advice on what to use? I
> would think it needs to be pliable and non-flamable... brilliant deduction,
> huh :) Was this a stock item or something Healey people added as needed?
>
> What is the normal operating temperature for a 100-4... I thought I read
> somewhere up to 194 degrees was the high end of normal.
>
> As for the shake, I will first have the tires spin balanced and see if that
> will take care of the problem... if not, I have my heart set on 60 spoke
> chrome wires :)
>
> I'll let you guys know how I rectify the miss.
>
> Take care,
>
> Charlie Stewart
> G'town, TX
> chadstew@texas.net (not a blind or blocked email address, except for arrogant
> smarty pants)
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:27:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Leaky Carbs
-Roland
On Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:02:33 -0700, ynotink <ynotink@qwest.net> wrote:
:: Actually the notch at the top of the float bowl is a vent to allow air to
:escape
:: when fuel is pumped in. The overflows for these cars consist of a couple of
:small
:: tubes which are fitted to the undersides of the intake manifolds and drop to
:a
:: point below the chassis.
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:26:49 -0600
Subject: Re: trivia
> Hello all,
>
> Some trivia I discovered today, Question is ... What is a Dunlopillo ?
On my Bugeye, it's the seat foam.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:58:02 -0000
Subject: BN1 6V Battery dimensions
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:33:45 -0500
Subject: RE: radio WOW
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan F Cross [mailto:alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 6:26 PM
To: Jag62e@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: radio WOW
>Can you give some contact details for J C Whitney? I don't know of a
source here in the UK, but I'm sure they would be able to supply by post
from the US.
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 08:33:15 EST
Subject: Subscribing Instructions
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:08:40 +0000
Subject: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
A question for those who have used these things, if I may ...
I used to design such things many years ago - just to provide a few mA
for electronic circuits. They had to chop the DC, diode pump to a
capacitor, and then regulate down to the required voltage. They were
notoriously inefficient!
How efficient are the J C Whitney modules? At 50% efficiency they'd burn
16 watts internally at full load (and 50% is optimistic for crude
designs). Do they get hot? Do they need strapping to the body as a
heatsink, or can they just be slung in the wiring?
Thanks as ever for all your help on this list.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:06:16 EST
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 11:42:53 -0800
Subject: Power Converters
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 12:15:52 EST
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 12:39:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
>>> <HLYDOC@aol.com> 03/12/02 11:06AM >>>
Why bother installing a converter to install a radio. We usually just
convert the car over to negative ground and then forget it. I can only see
one reason to leave the car positive ground and that is if you are looking at
a concours car.
**************************
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:02:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
my 0.02,
Jim '62 BT7 tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>; <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
> There are many of us who have positive earth cars that are no-where close
to
> being top notch show cars, yet we have drivers that we like to keep as
> original as possible. Part of the fun of having a British car is not only
> the English flair but also the oddity of these cars today. The right hand
> drive, the wire wheels, the electric overdrive, the tonneau covers and
> positive earth electrics all contribute to making these cars what they are
> today. I like to keep them the way they are, but that's just my opinion.
I'm
> sure there are others. Thanks
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:24:37 -0800
Subject: NHC (Warning)
>Delivered-To: bkatz@handsonresearch.com
>From: "Microsoft Corporation Security Center" <rdquest12@microsoft.com>
>To: "Microsoft Customer" <'customer@yourdomain.com'>
>Subject: Internet Security Update
>Reply-To: <rdquest12@microsoft.com>
>Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:43:06 +0000
>
>
>Microsoft Customer,
>
> this is the latest version of security update, the
>"8 Mar 2002 Cumulative Patch" update which eliminates all
>known security vulnerabilities affecting Internet Explorer and
>MS Outlook/Express as well as six new vulnerabilities, and is
>discussed in Microsoft Security Bulletin MS02-005. Install now to
>protect your computer from these vulnerabilities, the most serious of which
>could allow an attacker to run code on your computer.
>
>
>Description of several well-know vulnerabilities:
>
>- "Incorrect MIME Header Can Cause IE to Execute E-mail Attachment"
>vulnerability.
>If a malicious user sends an affected HTML e-mail or hosts an affected
>e-mail on a Web site, and a user opens the e-mail or visits the Web site,
>Internet Explorer automatically runs the executable on the user's computer.
>
>- A vulnerability that could allow an unauthorized user to learn the location
>of cached content on your computer. This could enable the unauthorized
>user to launch compiled HTML Help (.chm) files that contain shortcuts to
>executables, thereby enabling the unauthorized user to run the executables
>on your computer.
>
>- A new variant of the "Frame Domain Verification" vulnerability could
>enable a
>malicious Web site operator to open two browser windows, one in the Web
>site's
>domain and the other on your local file system, and to pass information from
>your computer to the Web site.
>
>- CLSID extension vulnerability. Attachments which end with a CLSID file
>extension
>do not show the actual full extension of the file when saved and viewed with
>Windows Explorer. This allows dangerous file types to look as though they
>are simple,
>harmless files - such as JPG or WAV files - that do not need to be blocked.
>
>
>System requirements:
>Versions of Windows no earlier than Windows 95.
>
>This update applies to:
>Versions of Internet Explorer no earlier than 4.01
>Versions of MS Outlook no earlier than 8.00
>Versions of MS Outlook Express no earlier than 4.01
>
>How to install
>Run attached file q216309.exe
>
>How to use
>You don't need to do anything after installing this item.
>
>
>For more information about these issues, read Microsoft Security Bulletin
>MS02-005, or visit link below.
>http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/downloads/critical/default.asp
>If you have some questions about this article contact us at
>rdquest12@microsoft.com
>
>Thank you for using Microsoft products.
>
>With friendly greetings,
>MS Internet Security Center.
>----------------------------------------
>----------------------------------------
>Microsoft is registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
>Windows and Outlook are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.
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From "Dwight Patten"<pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:41:41 -0800
Subject: Oil change financials
Oil Change instructions for Women:
1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000
miles since the last oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a
properly maintained vehicle.
Cost:
* Oil Change $20.00
* Coffee $1.00
* Total $21.00.
Oil Change instructions for Men:
1) Go to auto parts store and write check for $50.00
for oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a
scented tree.
2) Discover that the used oil container is full.
Instead of taking it back to O'Reilly's to recycle,
dump in hole in back yard.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack
stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer an
d drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: get hot oil on
you in the process.
12) Clean up mess.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Look for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; poke oil filter with screwdriver and
twist off.
16) Beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him.
Finish oil change tomorrow.
18) Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from under
car.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer. No, drank it all yesterday
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin
coat of oil to gasket surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Discover that the drain plug is buried in a hole in
the back yard along with used oil. (IDIOT!!)
27) Drink beer.
28) Uncover hole and sift for drain plug.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on
the floor.
30) Drink beer.
31) Slip with wrench tightening drain plug and bang
knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit
Miss December(1992) in the left boob.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as
required to stop blood flow.
38) Beer.
39) Beer
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush one of the jack stands.
44) Move car back,
apply more kitty litter to fresh
oil spilled during step 23.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the
influence.
48) Car gets impounded.
49) Make bail.
50) Get car from impound yard.
Cost:
* Parts $50.00
* DUI $2500.00
* Impound fee $75.00
* Bail $1500.00
* Beer $25.00
* Total-- $4,150.00
-- But you know the job was done right!
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Robert J. Denton" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:47:21 -0500
Subject: Re: NHC (Warning)
You are absolutely correct. The attachment is indeed a virus. I heard it on CNN
last week.
Bill Katz wrote:
> I just received the email below. Since MS doesn't normally send such a
> notice, I checked the web site and it seems the attachment that comes with
> this file is bogus. The email headers are also suspicious. If you get this
> email, do not open the attachment.
>
> >Delivered-To: bkatz@handsonresearch.com
> >From: "Microsoft Corporation Security Center" <rdquest12@microsoft.com>
> >To: "Microsoft Customer" <'customer@yourdomain.com'>
> >Subject: Internet Security Update
> >Reply-To: <rdquest12@microsoft.com>
> >Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:43:06 +0000
> >
> >
> >Microsoft Customer,
> >
> > this is the latest version of security update, the
> >"8 Mar 2002 Cumulative Patch" update which eliminates all
> >known security vulnerabilities affecting Internet Explorer and
> >MS Outlook/Express as well as six new vulnerabilities, and is
> >discussed in Microsoft Security Bulletin MS02-005. Install now to
> >protect your computer from these vulnerabilities, the most serious of which
> >could allow an attacker to run code on your computer.
> >
> >
> >Description of several well-know vulnerabilities:
> >
> >- "Incorrect MIME Header Can Cause IE to Execute E-mail Attachment"
> >vulnerability.
> >If a malicious user sends an affected HTML e-mail or hosts an affected
> >e-mail on a Web site, and a user opens the e-mail or visits the Web site,
> >Internet Explorer automatically runs the executable on the user's computer.
> >
> >- A vulnerability that could allow an unauthorized user to learn the location
> >of cached content on your computer. This could enable the unauthorized
> >user to launch compiled HTML Help (.chm) files that contain shortcuts to
> >executables, thereby enabling the unauthorized user to run the executables
> >on your computer.
> >
> >- A new variant of the "Frame Domain Verification" vulnerability could
> >enable a
> >malicious Web site operator to open two browser windows, one in the Web
> >site's
> >domain and the other on your local file system, and to pass information from
> >your computer to the Web site.
> >
> >- CLSID extension vulnerability. Attachments which end with a CLSID file
> >extension
> >do not show the actual full extension of the file when saved and viewed with
> >Windows Explorer. This allows dangerous file types to look as though they
> >are simple,
> >harmless files - such as JPG or WAV files - that do not need to be blocked.
> >
> >
> >System requirements:
> >Versions of Windows no earlier than Windows 95.
> >
> >This update applies to:
> >Versions of Internet Explorer no earlier than 4.01
> >Versions of MS Outlook no earlier than 8.00
> >Versions of MS Outlook Express no earlier than 4.01
> >
> >How to install
> >Run attached file q216309.exe
> >
> >How to use
> >You don't need to do anything after installing this item.
> >
> >
> >For more information about these issues, read Microsoft Security Bulletin
> >MS02-005, or visit link below.
> >http://www.microsoft.com/windows/ie/downloads/critical/default.asp
> >If you have some questions about this article contact us at
> >rdquest12@microsoft.com
> >
> >Thank you for using Microsoft products.
> >
> >With friendly greetings,
> >MS Internet Security Center.
> >----------------------------------------
> >----------------------------------------
> >Microsoft is registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation.
> >Windows and Outlook are trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:59:12 EST
Subject: Re: Oil change financials
What are you doing.... following me around like that ??,
LOL (Laugh out Loud !)
Name withheld by Request !
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:22:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
I'm with you, I've a nice 63 amp Delco alternator to service all
the goodies, out of sight out of mind, although if some present
are concerned about this I also belong to the Flat Earth Society
<wink>! By the way any snow left in the hills <wink> near you!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
James Hart wrote:
>
> I've got to side with the neg. earth crowd here--the PO converted my '62 BT7
> tricarb and had he not I certainly would. Mine too is a driver and turns
> plenty of heads. I love it's quirks ESPECIALLY the sound and feel of
> throwing that O/D switch in top gears. Positive ground doesn't add any
> aesthetic or cosmetic value to my car and is a quirk I don't need. Convert
> I say!
>
> my 0.02,
>
> Jim '62 BT7 tricarb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
> To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>; <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 9:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
>
> > There are many of us who have positive earth cars that are no-where close
> to
> > being top notch show cars, yet we have drivers that we like to keep as
> > original as possible. Part of the fun of having a British car is not only
> > the English flair but also the oddity of these cars today. The right hand
> > drive, the wire wheels, the electric overdrive, the tonneau covers and
> > positive earth electrics all contribute to making these cars what they are
> > today. I like to keep them the way they are, but that's just my opinion.
> I'm
> > sure there are others. Thanks
> >
> > Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From bob anderson <bobanderson at archerserve.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:48:34 -0700
Subject: a URL for Weber cams
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:56:56 -0800
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
To: <HLYDOC@aol.com>; <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
> There are many of us who have positive earth cars that are no-where close
to
> being top notch show cars, yet we have drivers that we like to keep as
> original as possible. Part of the fun of having a British car is not only
> the English flair but also the oddity of these cars today. The right hand
> drive, the wire wheels, the electric overdrive, the tonneau covers and
> positive earth electrics all contribute to making these cars what they are
> today. I like to keep them the way they are, but that's just my opinion.
I'm
> sure there are others. Thanks
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:08:51 -0800
Subject: Metalspray Question-Steering Repair
Would like to hear from anyone who's had this process done.
Thanks in advance.
I'm trying to decide whether to do this or just fill the thang with moly
grease and figure it'll last OK at 2500 miles/year.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:25:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:26:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
Well it seems no one has answered your question
exactly.... so let me give it a try -
Actually, the pos/neg DC converters are one of the
most efficient types of transformers. They are
essentially a stepping tranformer - It doubles the
incoming voltage to +12V over ground, which in turn is
+12V over the negative hot leads in a positive ground
car - therefore the hot lead into the radio will be
+24V over the negative terminal of the battery. As a
result, this allows the radio to share the same ground
as the car, or semi-visually:
-12V Negative Power leads <->
0 V Positive Ground <->
+12 V hot lead for radio from converter
The drawback of stepping up the voltage, however, is
the Amps coming out of the converter are half of
what's going in - if you double the voltage, you halve
the amps. That's why DC pos/neg converters always
have limitations on the number of amps that they can
draw, so if you're looking at putting a Pyle driving
Fosgate sub woofer in the trunk, you're out of luck
with the converter!...
Thankfully the JC Whitney converters will power up
most radio systems these days... but converting the
car to negative ground is really the way to go unless
you're a stickler for originality.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Firstly, many thanks for the many replies that I
> have had, mostly
> pointing me at J C Whitney. I'm still hoping to find
> the same thing from
> Tandy in the UK (Radio Shack in the USA).
>
> A question for those who have used these things, if
> I may ...
>
> I used to design such things many years ago - just
> to provide a few mA
> for electronic circuits. They had to chop the DC,
> diode pump to a
> capacitor, and then regulate down to the required
> voltage. They were
> notoriously inefficient!
>
> How efficient are the J C Whitney modules? At 50%
> efficiency they'd burn
> 16 watts internally at full load (and 50% is
> optimistic for crude
> designs). Do they get hot? Do they need strapping to
> the body as a
> heatsink, or can they just be slung in the wiring?
>
> Thanks as ever for all your help on this list.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:16:22 -0500
Subject: AHX-14 On Speed Channel- Sun Mar 17,9:30am
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:00:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Another thing about Pos-earth/neg-earth converters
I also forgot to mention that my BJ8, about 10 years
ago, had a DC Power converter powering my radio. I
chucked it when it finally wore out and simply
converted the car to negative ground. It is so much
easier now to run accessories like power antennas,
amplifiers, CD changers, and anything to plug into a
cigarette lighter port.
Of course, if you're like many on this list, you'll
want to keep it a little nutty and keep things
positive ground. I split the road here - my BJ8 is
negative g, my BN1 is positive g.
Somehow this makes sense... BJ8 is more sophisticated
& modern, the BN1 is defintitely a complete different
car despite the shape - the door handle is a chord,
the three speed shift is the most f**ked up thing I've
ever seen, half the bolts are BSF, the other half are
UNF - but it looks fast, drives fast, and these
eccentric mechanicals only increase my love for the
car. For some perverted reason I really get a kick
out of not being sure whether I've selected third,
first, or reverse when sitting at a red light!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Firstly, many thanks for the many replies that I
> have had, mostly
> pointing me at J C Whitney. I'm still hoping to find
> the same thing from
> Tandy in the UK (Radio Shack in the USA).
>
> A question for those who have used these things, if
> I may ...
>
> I used to design such things many years ago - just
> to provide a few mA
> for electronic circuits. They had to chop the DC,
> diode pump to a
> capacitor, and then regulate down to the required
> voltage. They were
> notoriously inefficient!
>
> How efficient are the J C Whitney modules? At 50%
> efficiency they'd burn
> 16 watts internally at full load (and 50% is
> optimistic for crude
> designs). Do they get hot? Do they need strapping to
> the body as a
> heatsink, or can they just be slung in the wiring?
>
> Thanks as ever for all your help on this list.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:07:53 -0800
Subject: Think the majority rules
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:30:06 EST
Subject: Paint question
On page 89 of the Anderson/Moment restoration guide, it states that the white
shade, coded WT3, was called Ivory White or Old English (Ivory) White. "Pale
Ivory White-which is in fact a pale yellow-was not used on Healeys." Did
this "Ivory White" have any yellow in it? What was this "pale Ivory White"
used on and what was it Coded as?
My question is this: What Dupont code that is available today should I use
to be correct?
Bill
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:30:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
I was fortunate enough to find a used converter being sold by a vendor at a
car show in 1993. I bought it, installed it, and it worked just fine to
power my modern radio. Recently, I decided to do the conversion to negative
ground, mostly because I want to install an alternator. My generator is
working fine at the moment, but the only time my Healey ever stranded me in
18 years, it was because the generator crapped out. It took me three days
to find someone to fix it. I don't want such surprises on my cross-country
trip to Tahoe in June.
The Archer (Radio Shack? J. C. Whitney?) positive-to-negative converter I
just removed from my BJ8 is available, if anyone is interested. It is a box
about 3 inches square and 8 inches long. I had it mounted to the metal
heater duct under the dash on the passenger's (USA) side with two screws.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 6:08 AM
Subject: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
> Firstly, many thanks for the many replies that I have had, mostly
> pointing me at J C Whitney. I'm still hoping to find the same thing from
> Tandy in the UK (Radio Shack in the USA).
>
> A question for those who have used these things, if I may ...
>
> I used to design such things many years ago - just to provide a few mA
> for electronic circuits. They had to chop the DC, diode pump to a
> capacitor, and then regulate down to the required voltage. They were
> notoriously inefficient!
>
> How efficient are the J C Whitney modules? At 50% efficiency they'd burn
> 16 watts internally at full load (and 50% is optimistic for crude
> designs). Do they get hot? Do they need strapping to the body as a
> heatsink, or can they just be slung in the wiring?
>
> Thanks as ever for all your help on this list.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Roger S. Bowker" <sextant at charter.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:40:54 -0500
Subject: Wonderful MKIII photoessay -
A friend from Houston just send me a copy of "Auto Forum" Nr. 4 5.10 -17,
1, 2002 which is a German automative magazine - it has a wonderful 4 or 5
page photo spread of Wegman photos ( the guy who shoots pictures using his
Weimeramers as focal points ) with his dogs in in a MKIII Healey. Double
page spreads - great looking car -
Anyone else seen it in the states? Who's Car?
Roger Bowker
59BT7 - Thermal choke and all
Harvard, MA (frost heaves are almost gone)
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:45 EST
Subject: pos/neg earth
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.(+)
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:10:01 -0800
Subject: Hub grease caps
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:10:57 -0800
Subject: Re: AHX-14 On Speed Channel- Sun Mar 17,9:30am
--------------------
At 11:16 AM 3/12/2002, you wrote:
>Listers;
> A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned on the list that AHX-14 would be
>on "Dream Car Garage" which is shown on the Speed Channel. (Formerly
>Speedvision).
> Some people asked me to remind them, and in addition to that I have
>the proper times according to the Speed Channel website. There are 13
>weekly shows that they go thru four times a year to make 52 weeks. They
>are shown 4 times in their week's run. AHX-14 will be on this coming
>Sunday, Mar 17th @ 10:00am EDT, Tues @ 7:30am , Fri @ 8:30am, & Sat @
>7:30amEDT. This schedule is not very considerate of those on the West
>coast.
> I have no idea how good or bad this will go over, but I'll be in
>church with my VCR running, hoping its fine.
>Regards, Blair L. Harber
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From RCooperman at aol.com
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:57:20 EST
Subject: DC/DC Converters for Positive Ground Cars
DC/DC converter technology has come a long, long way since the days of the
Whitney stuff. The typical inverter is now based on high efficiency
semiconductor switching. A unit to support a car radio actually is quite
small and should run without overheating. There are numerous DC/DC
converters that will take the nominally - 12 VDC of the car battery and
output a solid isolated + 12VDC. These converter modules are sold by
electronic supply houses that sell mainly to electrical engineers at
electronic design companies. I have seen suitable units for well under
$US50.
I expect to complete this task by the end of this month and will share the
results. Be assured it is simple and relatively cheap.
Richard Cooperman, BSEE
65 BJ8
67 Morgan 4/4
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:02:59 -0800
Subject: Re: pos/neg earth
> WOW, does anyone have any idea how many positive vs. negative "earthed"
> healeys are out there? How about BJ8s-Maybe Mr. Beyers has some Idea????
... and what happens if a positive ground Healey comes into contact with
a negative ground Healey? Mutual annihiliation? Or just a nasty spark?
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:24:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Hub grease caps
WRT:
> What is the easiest way to remove the grease cap within the front hubs? Do
> I need the special tool illustrated in the workshop manual?
Well, you can do it the lazy way and just pull the caps out with a pair of
pliers, but you'll bugger up the threads (and probably ruin them).
Or you can make your own puller:
1) braze/weld a nut with the same thread and diameter as the grease cap "bolt"
onto a length of allthread (or really long bolt). If you don't have
welding
gear you can probably just jamb the nut with another (use some
threadlocker, too). You'll need two or three threads to engage the cup,
there
are "deep" nuts that should have enough thread.
2) make a bracket (I hacked a kid's bike trainer wheel bracket) that can
span the hub and has a hole large enough for the allthread to fit through
3) screw the "nutted" end of the allthread onto the grease cap bolt
3) use a nut and flat washer, braced against your "bracket" (which is
braced agains the opening in the wheel hub) and tighten the nut
(on the allthread) so as to pull the cup out.
Crummy ASCII art diagram:
nut (a) nut welded to allthread
| |
| || |
. \\\\\[]||\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\[]\\\\\{
| || |
allthread \ grease cup
bracket (against hub)
Tighten nut (a) against the bracket to extract the grease cup.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 05:55:03 -0600
Subject: Re: pos/neg earth
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 06:04:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Hub grease caps
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 12:51:35 +0000
Subject: Negative earth conversion - the whole story?
I'm more inclined to leave things pos-earth, and convert for the radio,
but would appreciate the consensus on the total conversion task. Can
anyone respond on the following points?
1. Yes, the dynamo needs flashing, everyone say so.
2. Does the starter motor need anything doing in the conversion? If not,
why does it not rotate the wrong way after conversion?
3. Yes, coil need its connections swapping
4. Late BJ8 electronic tach - I believe this is more than just reversing
the loop.
5. Original late BJ8 fuel pump - does this have a diode that needs
reversing?
5. Electronic fuel pump conversion - needs a new electronic conversion
module (according to Burlen)
6. Electronic ignition (if used) - new system?
7. Heater motor - I hear this could well need reversing
8. Wiper motors - theoretically these could probably turn the other way
without problem, though I' d bet that they might not park properly, and
I'd be concerned that I'd be putting the wrong forces on the brushes if
it rotated counter to the way it was designed.
9. Battery - new tail cable to chassis/switch? Does the live end need
fudging to reach? Are these problems exacerbated by size of battery?
10. Anything else I haven't thought of?
It is this list, and the unknowns within it, that seriously put me off.
For a few pounds/dollars I simply plug in a J C Whitney module.
The arguments that advocate installing an alternator (does this go
hand-in-hand with polarity conversion?) do not apply to me, because I
don't intend to convert my BJ8 into a Christmas tree and go night
rallying!
Any views on this list I'm sure would be of use to others.
Thanks again for the great community spirit that comes via this list.
Regards...
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:49:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Paint question
> " Did this "Ivory White" have any yellow in it?
Yes-lots.
>
> My question is this: What Dupont code that is available today should I use
> to be correct?
I can't help w/ DuPont but I can give you the PPG numbers and the DuPont folks
ought to be able to duplicate it from that. I assume that you're looking for
"Old English White" from the WT-3 designation.
The PPG paint is called "California White". I had a piece of undisturbed
original non-sun bleached OEW and I took it to the PPG folks for their magic
scanner.
I used Deltron acrylic urethane (DAU). These numbers are for parts/gallon.
DMD 642 Yellow 96.0 parts
DMD 641 Yellow 144.0
DMD 648 Weak Black 408.0
DAX 609 Activator 80.0
DMD 645 Straight white 4352.0
BTW-If you need a bright color for a car, use the straight white. I did my MG
V8
project that way and it is absolutely the brightest thing out there. I didn't
feel the MG world needed another red chrome bumper MG. More worthless
info-there
are more "whites" than any other color which makes them a little tough to really
match.. The straight white is what all 3,000+ of them start from.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 08:58:41 -0500
Subject: Re: AHX-14 On Speed Channel- Sun Mar 17,9:30am
> According to the Speed listings, it says rebuilding an old Camaro, is that
> the one Blair?
>
> --------------------
> At 11:16 AM 3/12/2002, you wrote:
> >Listers;
> > A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned on the list that AHX-14 would be
> >on "Dream Car Garage" which is shown on the Speed Channel. (Formerly
> >Speedvision).
> > Some people asked me to remind them, and in addition to that I have
> >the proper times according to the Speed Channel website. There are 13
> >weekly shows that they go thru four times a year to make 52 weeks. They
> >are shown 4 times in their week's run. AHX-14 will be on this coming
> >Sunday, Mar 17th @ 10:00am EDT, Tues @ 7:30am , Fri @ 8:30am, & Sat @
> >7:30amEDT. This schedule is not very considerate of those on the West
> >coast.
> > I have no idea how good or bad this will go over, but I'll be in
> >church with my VCR running, hoping its fine.
> >Regards, Blair L. Harber
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:34:25 -0800
Subject: convertion
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:21:07 -0800
Subject: The miracle trickle charger?
Do you folks use those inexpensive battery trickle chargers that claim to
have a smart chip which enables them to monitor battery levels and turn on
and off as needed? I've heard various pros and cons - consensus on this?
Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 10:22:53 -0800
Subject: Pos / Neg Earth and Corrosion
Are pos or neg earth vehicles more susceptible to electrically induced
corrosion, all other things being equal?
Jim '62 BT7 tricarb
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 10:55:01 -0800
Subject: RE: Metalspray Question-Steering Repair
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From YourName <bjate at postoffice.pacbell.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 12:01:39 +0000
Subject: Don't Miss This One
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:20:34 EST
Subject: Re: The miracle trickle charger?
i've been using mine for 3+ years. it continues to give Mrs. Peel, and her
friends, a thrill !
David Maxwell
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 12:28:28 -0800
Subject: Re: trickle charger inquiry
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:25:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Negative earth conversion - the whole story?
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:29:07 EST
Subject: washer pump thanks
When I checked 2+ years age, I couldn't find them. Mr. Nock has them new and
was kind enough to reply, so he will be receiving my order shortly.
Man. it must have been tough for you guys in the ......... late 70's early
80's before all these precious parts were again available .... and before
the Internet and quality and quantity of info and camaraderie as found on
this list.
Cheers, David Maxwell & Mrs. Peel (BT-7)
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 14:38:59 -0800
Subject: Re: pos/neg earth
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (recently converted to negative ground)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rebeltown@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 7:32 PM
Subject: pos/neg earth
> WOW, does anyone have any idea how many positive vs. negative "earthed"
> healeys are out there? How about BJ8s-Maybe Mr. Beyers has some Idea????
>
> Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.(+)
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:11:57 -0500
Subject: pos/neg
Jim D
60 BT7 al natural
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:20:39 EST
Subject: Re: pos/neg earth
I soon realized that my body was not having a heart attack but conducting
electricity. I had the center console isolated from the car to run a negative
ground CD player. As I touched the metal body of the car I was conducting
electricity. That's when I changed the car to Negative ground.
That plus my girlfriends set of keys which contained a dozen metal thingies
dangled so low it bounced off the speaker grill emitting sparks every time it
touched.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:22:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Pos / Neg Earth and Corrosion
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:08:22 +0000
Subject: Thanks for all the pos/neg feedback (!), and an unrelated
I hope this unrelated question is more straightforward! I'm putting back
the carpet over the tunnel. Whenever I take up the carpet the
under-carpet half of the fastener remains on the stud. So I've bought
new fasteners and studs.
Questions:
Which way should the under-carpet half go? Is it 'concave side out' or
'convex side out'? Existing was concave side out (ie visible), but it
seems convex side out might allow for the spikes to be peened over
rather more effectively.
Is there a good way (a tool?) to make sure those spikes are well and
truly peened over?
Thanks as ever.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:21:56 EST
Subject: Re: pos/neg earth
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:31:24 EST
Subject: Not pos/neg (nor Healey) other hobby stuff
A lot of us have wondered about what's in people's garages and if there are
those elusive cars waiting to be discovered...
Well, on a much smaller scale, I like guitars and was curious if any of you
have any guitars that may be interesting or you may want to part with. I'd be
interested in hearing about them offline (they're not on topic).
I'd pay fair market value.
TIA,
Rick
San Diego
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:48:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Thanks for all the pos/neg feedback (!), and an unrelated
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 2:08 PM
Subject: Thanks for all the pos/neg feedback (!), and an unrelated question!
> I hope this unrelated question is more straightforward! I'm putting back
> the carpet over the tunnel. Whenever I take up the carpet the
> under-carpet half of the fastener remains on the stud. So I've bought
> new fasteners and studs.
>
> Questions:
>
> Which way should the under-carpet half go? Is it 'concave side out' or
> 'convex side out'? Existing was concave side out (ie visible), but it
> seems convex side out might allow for the spikes to be peened over
> rather more effectively.
>
> Is there a good way (a tool?) to make sure those spikes are well and
> truly peened over?
>
> Thanks as ever.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Trevor Bentley <trevor at atomiccartoons.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 15:07:11 -0800
Subject: Looking
Looking to purchase a BN1 project. Any leads greatly appreciated.
Trevor
Vancouver Canada
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:08:30 +0000
Subject: Carpet fasteners
Many thanks for this - they were clearly installed upside down by the
PO, which is why they kept coming apart. I shall now re-install with
confidence!!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:09:53 -0800
Subject: Paging Tom Blaskovics
I just had a problem with my computer that resulted in the loss of my address
book. STBTL, but Tom Blaskovics, please contact me.
Thanks,
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:29:33 -0600
Subject: British Car
Maybe we can start our own "Derelict Show" in Central Texas ...should be easy,
we have plenty of derelicts in these parts ;-)
Charlie
'53 BN1
'71 TR-6
chadstew@texas.net
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 19:41:57 EST
Subject: Thanks for help
Now I'm on to seeing things come back together..rear end back in, front
suspension back on...almost ready to put engine and trans in to do one more
fitting of doors and fenders, then back out.... etc etc etc.
Bill
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:45:48 -0600
Subject: open roads 2002 TEXAS KOOLER special
You may order your KOOLER by email, however, you have to pay for it by check or
monery order payable to NTAHC po bx 45332 dallas, tx 75245.
Have a KOOOOOL journey !!
happy healeying,
your pals in north texas
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From "Dr. Richard Welser" <drduffy at earthlink.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:09:53 -0500
Subject: update on Sprite/Matchless question
The www.britishmotorclub.com site is back up. The host designation
change has a bit of propagating through the web servers to accomplish
but you should be able to see pics of the back there.
Frankly, I'm asking around 2000. 00 for the G11. It was restored
completely....or as completely as you could back in 1971. The inside of
the engine is immaculate. Parts that were exposed during its barn
existence corroded some. I can provide pics, for example, of how nicely
the bright work cleans up with the proper procedures. The wheel rims
need to be replaced. Rusty chrome is rusty chrome. Repainting of frame
would be required for a proper restore but is servicable as is. Other
data is provided on the web site. I can provide more.
I know that 2K may seem high for some. If you want a Matchless 600 twin,
this is a good bike to restore. The hard work was done already, years
ago. The tops of the pistons, for example, are pristine. It was driven,
at most, twenty miles after restore. And ten more ten years later in
1981. When I finally got a real job after finishing my postdoc I brought
it down to NC from my brother's barn in Ohio. It sports a new generator.
etc. I need the 2k to reduce some debt as I purchase this new (to me)
house (my first). I love the Matchless and would certainly be willing to
keep it and restore it myself if its sale did not meet other needs. I
don't mean to be presumptuous in my tone but I am very ambivalent about
selling it at all. So I almost wish no one will want a Matchless G11
enough to purchase it. Or conversely?, I am afraid somebody wil.
richard welser
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:37:11 -0500
Subject: Distributor and timing
Just a follow up note on the resolution to my timing dilema of a couple weeks
ago. Thank you to all who replied and tried to help - I really appreciate
it!
The situation was with the timing mark and the valve positions. With #1 at
TDC I was finding the exhaust valve for #6 fully closed and the intake valve
halfway open. This did not jive with the Haynes manual which said the exhaust
should be "just closing" and the intake "just opening" which I took to mean
just that.
Well, as you may have read in the last few days the engine is up and running
so I must have been fretting over nothing. I merely was taking care of a
newly rebuilt engine! I can only conclude the book is WRONG. Just like it
was WRONG on the instructions for adjust the jet for the HS6 carbs.
Keith Pennell
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:32:47 -0800
Subject: Re: British Car
One of the guys from the Jag list told me about this event. It is a kick.
I even got SWMBO to go one Saturday AM with me.
Old guys. Old cars. EVERY Saturday morning.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E Type FHC
1989 Speedster (belongs to SWMBO)
Charlie & Adriane wrote:
> Received my copy #96 of British Car and read the Despatches. Huntington
> Beach, CA has a morning car show held every Saturday from 6:00 to 9:00 AM...
> They are called the "Donut Derelicts" and Ron Rader's car has the featured
> car/picture of the event (VERY nice car Ron)... Also, congratulations on your
> 1st at the Orange Coast Concours.
>
> Maybe we can start our own "Derelict Show" in Central Texas ...should be easy,
> we have plenty of derelicts in these parts ;-)
>
> Charlie
> '53 BN1
> '71 TR-6
> chadstew@texas.net
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:04:57 -0700
Subject: Re: a URL for Weber cams
Bill Lawrence
bob anderson wrote:
> I' like to research Weber camshafts for the BJ8 and haven't found the
> right web sight. Anyone know the URL for Weber Cams?
> Thanks in advance, bobanderson, CoSprings.
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From "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 02:37:22 -0500
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Filter
The PO of my BJ8 installed a large conical metal fuel filter directly to
the steel braided fuel line close to the carbs.. Exiting the filter is a 9"
rubber hose that attaches to the front carb. This whole assembly is neatly
coiled up under the shroud and mostly out of sight. This set-up works fine,
but my "objective" is to preserve originality while protecting my carbs
from contaminants. That being said, should I just disconnect the filter and
rubber hose assembly and connect the braided line to the carb?. This setup
is shown in Clausager's book page 59, but shows no in- line filter. Is that
really original?
Do most of you just rely on the fine screen filter at the fuel pump?
Gary and Roger's book (page 157) show an after market glass filter
attached, is this the way to go? There was also some discussion in "The
Archives" about locating an in-line filter back by the fuel pump but most
disagreed with it.
In the event I do splice into the steel braided line, any suggestions on a
cutting method that has worked?
Any comments or assistance is always appreciated!
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:07:01 +0000
Subject: Re: Negative earth conversion - the whole story?
Regarding your points 2. 7. & 8. As a general rule these all have wound
field coils so a reversal in current flow here is the same as it is in
the armature. These "cancel out" so that the motors rotate in their
original direction. The problems come with more modern motors where new
magnetic materials allow a permanent field magnet to be fitted thus
eliminating the field windings.
Here the rotation will depend on the polarity of the supply.
On Austin-Healeys this is not normally the case except where more modern
motors have been fitted. A later type electric screen washer pump is an
example.
All the best
>Well, I seem to have got the pos-earth/neg-earth battle into some heat!
>
>I'm more inclined to leave things pos-earth, and convert for the radio,
>but would appreciate the consensus on the total conversion task. Can
>anyone respond on the following points?
>
>1. Yes, the dynamo needs flashing, everyone say so.
>2. Does the starter motor need anything doing in the conversion? If not,
>why does it not rotate the wrong way after conversion?
>3. Yes, coil need its connections swapping
>4. Late BJ8 electronic tach - I believe this is more than just reversing
>the loop.
>5. Original late BJ8 fuel pump - does this have a diode that needs
>reversing?
>5. Electronic fuel pump conversion - needs a new electronic conversion
>module (according to Burlen)
>6. Electronic ignition (if used) - new system?
>7. Heater motor - I hear this could well need reversing
>8. Wiper motors - theoretically these could probably turn the other way
>without problem, though I' d bet that they might not park properly, and
>I'd be concerned that I'd be putting the wrong forces on the brushes if
>it rotated counter to the way it was designed.
>9. Battery - new tail cable to chassis/switch? Does the live end need
>fudging to reach? Are these problems exacerbated by size of battery?
>10. Anything else I haven't thought of?
>
>It is this list, and the unknowns within it, that seriously put me off.
>For a few pounds/dollars I simply plug in a J C Whitney module.
>
>The arguments that advocate installing an alternator (does this go
>hand-in-hand with polarity conversion?) do not apply to me, because I
>don't intend to convert my BJ8 into a Christmas tree and go night
>rallying!
>
>Any views on this list I'm sure would be of use to others.
>
>Thanks again for the great community spirit that comes via this list.
>
>Regards...
--
John Harper
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 01:14:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
There should be a fine screen filter and spring
located in your carburettor float bowls - this is
original equipment.
In general, I believe running some sort of inline
filter is still preferred, however, to keep your float
jets or the carb jet from getting jammed up with fine
particled gunk.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
wrote:
> Gang,
>
> The PO of my BJ8 installed a large conical metal
> fuel filter directly to
> the steel braided fuel line close to the carbs..
> Exiting the filter is a 9"
> rubber hose that attaches to the front carb. This
> whole assembly is neatly
> coiled up under the shroud and mostly out of sight.
> This set-up works fine,
> but my "objective" is to preserve originality while
> protecting my carbs
> from contaminants. That being said, should I just
> disconnect the filter and
> rubber hose assembly and connect the braided line to
> the carb?. This setup
> is shown in Clausager's book page 59, but shows no
> in- line filter. Is that
> really original?
> Do most of you just rely on the fine screen filter
> at the fuel pump?
> Gary and Roger's book (page 157) show an after
> market glass filter
> attached, is this the way to go? There was also some
> discussion in "The
> Archives" about locating an in-line filter back by
> the fuel pump but most
> disagreed with it.
> In the event I do splice into the steel braided
> line, any suggestions on a
> cutting method that has worked?
> Any comments or assistance is always appreciated!
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:01:45 -0800
Subject: steering wheel
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:27:38 -0500
Subject: OEW Paint
Bill Wood
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:24:31 -0800
Subject: RE: a URL for Weber cams
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:27:55 EST
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:01:29 -0800
Subject: Lug nut torque
TIA
John Snyder
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:06:38 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
I'm sure many will point out it's probably time to get the ol' gas tank
cleaned and I wouldn't disagree. In the meantime, however, six months ago I
switched to the cheapest possible moldest plastic/paper element filter from
my local NAPA and I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
It seems the glass/screen combo, while it looks cool, is very susceptible to
clogging.
Go figure.
Jim '62 BT7 Tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 11:37 PM
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Filter
> Gang,
>
> The PO of my BJ8 installed a large conical metal fuel filter directly to
> the steel braided fuel line close to the carbs.. Exiting the filter is a
9"
> rubber hose that attaches to the front carb. This whole assembly is neatly
> coiled up under the shroud and mostly out of sight. This set-up works
fine,
> but my "objective" is to preserve originality while protecting my carbs
> from contaminants. That being said, should I just disconnect the filter
and
> rubber hose assembly and connect the braided line to the carb?. This setup
> is shown in Clausager's book page 59, but shows no in- line filter. Is
that
> really original?
> Do most of you just rely on the fine screen filter at the fuel pump?
> Gary and Roger's book (page 157) show an after market glass filter
> attached, is this the way to go? There was also some discussion in "The
> Archives" about locating an in-line filter back by the fuel pump but most
> disagreed with it.
> In the event I do splice into the steel braided line, any suggestions on a
> cutting method that has worked?
> Any comments or assistance is always appreciated!
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:26:51 -0800
Subject: steering
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:38:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Lug nut torque
> From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> Reply-To: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
> Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:01:29 -0800
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Lug nut torque
>
> Can anyone tell me the correct amount of torque for tightening the lug nuts
> used with the reproduction MiniLite wheels on a bolt-on hub on a Healey
> 3000?
>
> TIA
>
> John Snyder
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:43:35 -0800
Subject: Re: a URL for Weber cams
> From: bob anderson <bobanderson@archerserve.com>
> Reply-To: bob anderson <bobanderson@archerserve.com>
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:48:34 -0700
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: a URL for Weber cams
>
> I' like to research Weber camshafts for the BJ8 and haven't found the
> right web sight. Anyone know the URL for Weber Cams?
> Thanks in advance, bobanderson, CoSprings.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:06:08 -0800
Subject: Re: steering wheel
There's no point taking the wheel off except as part of a project to remove
your steering column and overhaul the box. First you should try adjusting
the adjuster. It's a nut on top of the steering box you can tighten while
checking for binding by turning the wheel from lock to lock.
In addition, have an assistant turn the wheel a couple of inches each way
from center while you observe the steering arm at the bottom of the box
under the front of the car. If you see the shaft moving side-to- side before
the linkage starts to move, you're seeing wear between the rocker shaft and
the housing. If there isn't too much wear, replacing the bushing in the
housing is supposed to fix it up (I'll know whether this works in a few
days). This is a machine shop process unless you're pretty handy with a
brake hone. Some people just say the hell with it and fill the steering box
with grease, which will not leak out.
Check the oil level in the box with a thin stick. If it's empty, put a small
amount in and see if it leaks out. I filled mine and it all leaked out on my
garage floor in a few hours. Then I filled it with STP which takes weeks to
leak out and makes a hell of a mess when it does. Now I'm rebuilding it.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
>The wheel has a lot of play and I don`t
> kwon how to remove.Its an adjustable wheel. Thanks Stephen
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From bob anderson <bobanderson at archerserve.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:27:46 -0700
Subject: Elgin camshafts
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From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:27:20 -0800
Subject: Part Needed - Lucas Backup Lamp Bracket
The L494 connecting bolt is on the top of the lamp, versus the rear as with
the L661, and the bracket connects the light to the rear bumper.
Any help is appreciated dearly.
Regards,
Matt-
1960 3000 BT7
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:15:01 -0800
Subject: Electrics
On a not so unrelated note: another electrical problem has arisen: the other
day I noticed that my left headlamp was out; its the Lucas PL tripod
variety; I disassembled the headlight and replaced the bulb and it didn't
work. This morning after starting the car, smoke started pouring out of the
headlamp. I turned off the engine and turned off the battery switch, took
the headlight apart and the wires were fried to a crisp. I hate to keep
repeating this but its a 38 year old unrestored vehicle. I doubt that the
electrics/harnessing have ever been updated (could account for the
unresponsive tach). Is there a good text or other source out there that
deals with electrics (a good chart would help) and harness connections etc.
that anyone can recommend.
Regards,
Rob White
64 BJ8
tachless (and now left front headlampless) in Vancouver
-
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From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 22:35:03 -0000
Subject: US Classic Car Price guide
Kindest regards
Tom
--
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk=20
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Letterhead top bar small.gif]
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 16:38:25 -0600
Subject: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
After cleaning, should they be left dry or perhaps sprayed with something
like K&N oil or Light motor oil? WD40?
Brian Collins
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:06:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 2:38 PM
Subject: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
> Any recommendations on how to clean the Factory "Brillo Pad" style Air
> filters on my 61 MKI 3000? (Perhaps K&N Filter cleaner?)
>
> After cleaning, should they be left dry or perhaps sprayed with something
> like K&N oil or Light motor oil? WD40?
>
> Brian Collins
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:20:16 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
If you've ever used one of those washable "permanent" screen type coffee
filter replacements you know what I'm talking about. They seem like a great
idea but you always get grounds in your coffee (yuck!) Good old paper filters
keep the grounds where they belong.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Phillips
To: 'jgh3rd@jps.net' ; 'SPAULSON1@compuserve.com' ; 'Healeys@autox.team.net'
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
Jim,
Aren't you concerned about where that sand is now going? Strikes me that the
glass filter might have been more affective and the real problem is still
there.
Andy
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hart <jgh3rd@jps.net>
To: Scot K. Paulson <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>; Listers
<Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu Mar 14 14:06:38 2002
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
Without regards to originality, I had one of the glass cartridge type
filters with the replaceable screen element inside--NOTHING but problems.
Everytime I turned around it was full of sand, the car would lose power,
stall, and generally run like crap, and I was doing a road side clean out as
a temporary fix.
I'm sure many will point out it's probably time to get the ol' gas tank
cleaned and I wouldn't disagree. In the meantime, however, six months ago I
switched to the cheapest possible moldest plastic/paper element filter from
my local NAPA and I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
It seems the glass/screen combo, while it looks cool, is very susceptible to
clogging.
Go figure.
Jim '62 BT7 Tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 11:37 PM
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Filter
> Gang,
>
> The PO of my BJ8 installed a large conical metal fuel filter directly to
> the steel braided fuel line close to the carbs.. Exiting the filter is a
9"
> rubber hose that attaches to the front carb. This whole assembly is neatly
> coiled up under the shroud and mostly out of sight. This set-up works
fine,
> but my "objective" is to preserve originality while protecting my carbs
> from contaminants. That being said, should I just disconnect the filter
and
> rubber hose assembly and connect the braided line to the carb?. This setup
> is shown in Clausager's book page 59, but shows no in- line filter. Is
that
> really original?
> Do most of you just rely on the fine screen filter at the fuel pump?
> Gary and Roger's book (page 157) show an after market glass filter
> attached, is this the way to go? There was also some discussion in "The
> Archives" about locating an in-line filter back by the fuel pump but most
> disagreed with it.
> In the event I do splice into the steel braided line, any suggestions on a
> cutting method that has worked?
> Any comments or assistance is always appreciated!
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:32:47 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
Good analogy. I thought that you were saying that the sand was no longer
collecting in the inline filter.
Cheers,
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hart <jgh3rd@jps.net>
To: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>; SPAULSON1@compuserve.com
<SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>; Healeys@autox.team.net <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu Mar 14 18:20:16 2002
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
I am convinced that the sand was clogging and possibly penetrating the
screen element in the old glass filter. The paper element is doing it's job
and keeping the grit on the pump side.
If you've ever used one of those washable "permanent" screen type coffee
filter replacements you know what I'm talking about. They seem like a great
idea but you always get grounds in your coffee (yuck!) Good old paper
filters keep the grounds where they belong.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Phillips
To: 'jgh3rd@jps.net' ; 'SPAULSON1@compuserve.com' ; 'Healeys@autox.team.net'
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
Jim,
Aren't you concerned about where that sand is now going? Strikes me that the
glass filter might have been more affective and the real problem is still
there.
Andy
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
-----Original Message-----
From: James Hart < jgh3rd@jps.net>
To: Scot K. Paulson < SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>; Listers <
Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu Mar 14 14:06:38 2002
Subject: Re: BJ8 Fuel Filter
Without regards to originality, I had one of the glass cartridge type
filters with the replaceable screen element inside--NOTHING but problems.
Everytime I turned around it was full of sand, the car would lose power,
stall, and generally run like crap, and I was doing a road side clean out as
a temporary fix.
I'm sure many will point out it's probably time to get the ol' gas tank
cleaned and I wouldn't disagree. In the meantime, however, six months ago I
switched to the cheapest possible moldest plastic/paper element filter from
my local NAPA and I haven't had a bit of trouble since.
It seems the glass/screen combo, while it looks cool, is very susceptible to
clogging.
Go figure.
Jim '62 BT7 Tricarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Listers" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 11:37 PM
Subject: BJ8 Fuel Filter
> Gang,
>
> The PO of my BJ8 installed a large conical metal fuel filter directly to
> the steel braided fuel line close to the carbs.. Exiting the filter is a
9"
> rubber hose that attaches to the front carb. This whole assembly is neatly
> coiled up under the shroud and mostly out of sight. This set-up works
fine,
> but my "objective" is to preserve originality while protecting my carbs
> from contaminants. That being said, should I just disconnect the filter
and
> rubber hose assembly and connect the braided line to the carb?. This setup
> is shown in Clausager's book page 59, but shows no in- line filter. Is
that
> really original?
> Do most of you just rely on the fine screen filter at the fuel pump?
> Gary and Roger's book (page 157) show an after market glass filter
> attached, is this the way to go? There was also some discussion in "The
> Archives" about locating an in-line filter back by the fuel pump but most
> disagreed with it.
> In the event I do splice into the steel braided line, any suggestions on a
> cutting method that has worked?
> Any comments or assistance is always appreciated!
>
>
> Scot
> '66 BJ8
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:39:37 -0800
Subject: Powder coating
Kenny
61 BT7
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:52:48 EST
Subject: Springthing 2002
The weekends activities include a great rally, a unique car show to be held
in downtown Corydon in conjunction with a large regional art show,
(Cars and Shopping, something for everyone!)
The Autocross course is awesome and will be hosted by the local SCCA. Plus
all the great Hospitality, Funkhana and other events you have come to expect.
Rooms at the Old Capital Inn are just $55!
Visit our website at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview and
more information
and registration forms
.
Already we have a record number of early registrations from Kentucky,
Illinois, Indiana, Texas, California, Ohio, Michigan, Missouri, Tennessee and
Georgia.
Please join us for what promises to be a very fun event!
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:59:10 EST
Subject: Re: Electrics
<< This morning after starting the car, smoke started pouring out of the
headlamp. I turned off the engine and turned off the battery switch, took
the headlight apart and the wires were fried to a crisp. >>
Try cleaning all your electrical connections so they make good contact. That
green stuff in the connections makes it hard for the system to work
correctly.
THAT MEANS YOUR GROUND CONNECTIONS TOO.
Don
Healey Parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:39:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Powder coating
I am in the process of getting bids on powder coating some brush bars for SUVs.
I cannot believe the price. I am getting an industry price and it's too high.
Throcess is almost prohibitive for large pieces since the metal has to fairly
perfect and then etched to hold the powder coating on. I would suggest a really
good paint job, like it was originally, for about 20% of the cost.
Kenny Johnson wrote:
> Has anyone had expierence with powder coating a Healey chassis? I had a
> custom car builder suggest doing it to my Healey.
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT7
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:33:05 -0500
Subject: Re:Lucas key Sets
1) FS 897 with the later "square head" keys
2) FS 877 with the round head keys
3) FS 912 with the round head keys
The keys are Union, made in England. If interested please contact me off
the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:00:14 -0600
Subject: Pete Sandy search
Please contact me off list. I misplaced your email address. Thanks. Jim
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:07:11 -0600
Subject: Alloy Engine Block for 3000
I have recently been in discussions concerning importing from AU a few
alloy engine blocks (for the 3000, the ones that were discussed on the
list early last year). I am interested to know if any one else on the list
would be interested in ordering a block so that I could put together a full
shipping pallet and reduce the shipping charges.
Please contact me off list. The blocks are magnificent and save over 100
pounds in weight.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:28:06 EST
Subject: Re: Powder coating
<< Has anyone had expierence with powder coating a Healey chassis? I had a
custom car builder suggest doing it to my Healey. >>
Kenny,
Randy Cooke who owns Healey Masters here in the Los Angeles area has been
powder coating Healey chassis for some years now (About ten). He has a good
selection of matched original colors and he matched the OEW off of a the rear
shroud from a wrecked 7K original mile BN1 that I put on my car. This same
color went on a fellows OEW over Black 100M and from my recollection it
turned out fantastic. I believe that it is a fairly low gloss, 60 to 80% so
that it doesn't have that "wet" look.
The two advantages that I saw were one the coverage, which was fantastic and
to quote Randy, "You just can't get a paint gun into all those small areas
and the whole idea is to cover and prevent rusting of the metal." Secondly
Randy quoted me a price of around $800 for the job and he personally goes and
sets up the chassis in the oven to make sure its done correctly, and all of
the captive threaded nuts are masked off. I know that the cost of priming
and painting plus the cost of paint will be as much if not more unless you do
it yourself.
I can't speak to the down sides since I haven't done this yet to my car but I
will try and contact the person mentioned above to see how his chassis has
held up over the past several years.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 22:21:14 EST
Subject: Re: US Classic Car Price guide
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From N5572B at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 00:16:15 EST
Subject: 3.55 Gears
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:48:51 -0800
Subject: BN2 Trans Mounts, etc
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 23:14:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Electrics
It isn't just the old wiring. About 15 years ago I
installed a brand new wiring harness on my BJ8 and
about a year later the primary ignition wire grounded
to another wire in the loom and caught fire. I turned
off the battery master, disconnected the wire ... and
ran some new wire which thankfully I had in my kit in
the trunk.
FYI I've been tactless for most of my life.
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- rob <rob@iwjlaw.com> wrote:
> Hi List, thanks for all the advice I received
> regarding installation of the
> tach. Still haven't quite sorted it out yet, but
> I'll update you when I do.
>
> On a not so unrelated note: another electrical
> problem has arisen: the other
> day I noticed that my left headlamp was out; its the
> Lucas PL tripod
> variety; I disassembled the headlight and replaced
> the bulb and it didn't
> work. This morning after starting the car, smoke
> started pouring out of the
> headlamp. I turned off the engine and turned off the
> battery switch, took
> the headlight apart and the wires were fried to a
> crisp. I hate to keep
> repeating this but its a 38 year old unrestored
> vehicle. I doubt that the
> electrics/harnessing have ever been updated (could
> account for the
> unresponsive tach). Is there a good text or other
> source out there that
> deals with electrics (a good chart would help) and
> harness connections etc.
> that anyone can recommend.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob White
> 64 BJ8
>
> tachless (and now left front headlampless) in
> Vancouver
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 23:36:43 -0800
Subject: Donut Derilicts in the AM
I try to get there by 7.00 am.
don't buy the donuts at the corner.
go to the restaurant a little further east in the center.
they have the Krispy Kremes.
Let me know when y'all are going.
I can't make this Saturday.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E type FHC
1989 Speedster
etc.
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:41:52 -0500
Subject: tubeless
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:33:04 -0800
Subject: Re: tubeless
I had my rims sealed 5 years or so ago. No way I would go back,
you get fewer flats (friction between tube and tire/wheel caused more
flats than anything else before I "converted"). Plus, you can fix
the "typical" flat (nail) with one of the plug-type kits (which work
just fine). The tires run cooler as well.
The only drawback is you'll have to have the seal stripped if/when
you have to have the wheels trued. Be sure to get yours trued before
you seal.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Would appreciate comments on pro's and con's of having my wire wheels silicone
> coated inside and running tubeless??
> I just spoke to someone who states he's been doing that for 5 plus years, with
> very good success. It's a first for me and would like some help.
> Thanks Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:33:20 -0600
Subject: Powder coating
MR JAJA
61 BT7
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:46:05 EST
Subject: Re: tubeless
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From N5572B at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:11:34 EST
Subject: Thanks for Gear Info
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From Joel Seguine <jseguine at umich.edu>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:22:41 -0500
Subject: Rocker Arm Assembly
Just rejoined the list after a couple of years. It's great to be back!
I'm rebuilding an engine left over from a BJ8 I used to own and I have
questions about the rocker assembly.
The contact pads (for lack of a better term) on the rockers need
reconditioning. Who does that? Should I send the whole assembly to be
cleaned, rebushed, etc.? I'm willing to tackle it myself, but still
need the rockers attended to.
Thanks.
--
Joel Seguine
Ann Arbor, MI
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 17:33:27 +0000
Subject: A database of Austin Healey consumables?
On possible feature that could be popular is a database of all those
consumables that are needed to keep a Healey going. For example, if I
need a new battery for a BJ8, do I hawk the car round to dealers and try
several in turn, or can I look at a database of suitable batteries by
Healey model? Similarly with oil filters, spark plugs, wiper blades,
light bulbs, etc, etc.
I realise this is likely to be very country-specific, so this would be
for the UK. But does such a thing exist elsewhere, which may help to
start things moving with international parts, and also give me a chance
to see how such a database might work in practice?
I imagine the bulk of entries would be from members' and owners' own
experiences (and would have to carry a disclaimer to that effect).
So, the question is... does such a thing exist elsewhere? And a
tongue-in-cheek rider... would this take half the fun out of owning an
obsolete car???!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:16:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re: rocker arm assembly
A few weeks ago, Adnan posted an inquiry regarding experiences with
Rocker Arm Specialists, home of the $98 rocker shaft rebuild. For
that amount, they will do complete disassembly, straighten rocker
shaft, center grind undersize, hard chrome plate and regrind to
current spec. I already had a new rocker shaft, so I shipped my
assembly with that. Turn around from coast to coast was under2 wks.
and my cost was $85 plus shipping. My unit was returned with rockers
refaced, new screws and nuts, and new bushings installed and reamed.
Installed it this weekend and the rocker arm oil geysers have been
reduced to a trickle. Overall, I'm one satisfied customer.
The company is Rocker Arm Specialists, 19841 Hirsch Court, Anderson,
CA 96007 Tel. (530) 378-1075. I recall one lister stating his rocker
shaft was parkerized, rather than chrome plated, so you may want to
check that out first.
------------------------------------------------------------------
Francois
BJ7
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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From William Craig <William.Craig at PWGSC.GC.CA>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:46:17 -0500
Subject: radiator
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:55:25 -0600
Subject: Re: radiator
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Craig" <William.Craig@PWGSC.GC.CA>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 12:46 PM
Subject: radiator
> I streipped the paint off the top of my BN6 radiator and have been
polishing
> the brass. Any suggestions on a top quality clearcoat to spray on so that
I
> will not need to polish anymore. Can this be done successfully so that I
> will not never have to polish? I would also like to brass coat as many
under
> the hood items as possible ie horns, air filters, brake fluid cap and
> reservoir, valve cover nuts and oil filler cap and throttle linkage
shafts.
> I plan to buy my own kit if I know it can be done succesfully. If the
brass
> coating is going to dull even with the clearcoat I could opt to do most
> things in nickel. One kit manufacturer said if I really wanted the brass
> look I could nickel coat some items and then do a gold coat ie no
> polishing required - but cost may be a factor. I would prefer brass if I
can
> keep it shiny without all the polish work. I would welcome any comments or
> suggestions. Bud Craig, Ottawa, Canada
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:57:57 EST
Subject: Re: radiator
It's a joke, just kidding!
Richard
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:04:41 EST
Subject: Tonneau question
TIA
Dick North
BJ8
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:25:25 -0800
Subject: Re: Tonneau question
At 11:04 AM 3/15/2002, you wrote:
>I just received my new tonneau cover and I am puzzled by the two flaps with
>"lift the dot" fasteners over the seats and the smaller ones over the slits
>with snaps.
>What are these for?
>
>TIA
>Dick North
>BJ8
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:17:41 -0800
Subject: Electrics
Regards,
Rob
64 BJ8
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From "Adrian Boelen" <boelen at total.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:53:28 -0500
Subject: Tonneau flap flap
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 16:53:52 EST
Subject: Tonneau answers
Dick North
BJ8
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 17:52:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking For JW
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:24:36 -0500
Subject: OD Fixed!
This list is great!
Tom
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From "Steve Brown" <cabman at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:02:23 -0600
Subject: Automotive but non-Healey
Does anyone have any experience connecting a Win based laptop to a computer
port on a vehicle so I can access the error codes and other info?
Specifcally, I have a '97 Ford F 150 pick up and a '98 Toyota Camery. I
suspect that there is software and the necessary connector to do the job.
Please feel free to answer off-list
Steve Brown
'64 Sprite
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From <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:08:46 -0600
Subject: Fw: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
> Any recommendations on how to clean the Factory "Brillo Pad" style Air
> filters on my 61 MKI 3000? (Perhaps K&N Filter cleaner?)
>
> After cleaning, should they be left dry or perhaps sprayed with something
> like K&N oil or Light motor oil? WD40?
>
> Brian Collins
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 20:16:11 -0500
Subject: tubeless
Dave
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:59:06 -0800
Subject: California Owners
I've just scanned the Ca. Air Resources Board's ("CARB" - ain't that
cute :) latest proposal: http://www.arb.ca.gov/planning/caplan/schedule.htm
Looks like they're trying to rescind the rolling 30-year exemption, but
pre-1974 cars APPEAR to be safe (for now).
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From healeyric2 at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 06:23:28 PST
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1713042543: AUSTIN
Title of item: AUSTIN HEALEY HARDTOP
Seller: doggymoggy
Starts: Mar-12-02 11:26:16 PST
Ends: Mar-19-02 11:26:16 PST
Price: Starts at GBP 200.00
To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1713042543
Item Description:
ORIGINAL AUSTIN HEALEY HARDTOP FOR MODEL BT7, MAY FIT OTHERS. HEALEY
WHITE, REQUIRES BRACKETS AND OPTIONAL HEAD LINING OTHERWISE READY TO FIT. VERY
RARE ITEM.E MAIL ME FOR PICTURES OF HARDTTOP FITTED TO MY CAR
Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:43:17 -0500
Subject: Frame painting
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From "Guy G" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 00:35:49 -0500
Subject: Angle Drive Update
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 09:18:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
I thought I saw a couple of replies - maybe not.
You definitely need to oil the original style cleaners. The mesh is
designed to be oil wetted - if you use them dry, they won't stop much. WD
40 is too light - the carrier evaporates and doesn't leave enough oil. I
would recommend engine oil - whatever you use in the crankcase. A K & N
filter oil would be fine as long as it is about the same weight. Most of
the aftermarket filter oils are designed to be used with foam type
oil-wetted cleaners, so are not as suitable.
Here is what I do: clean the filter in any solvent type cleaner. I have
used camp fuel in the past. Use enough to immerse the cleaners, and swish
them around so that the mesh is cleaned of oil then let them air dry, or
blow them dry, if you have air.
Prop the filters with the mesh upwards and sprinkle oil from an oil can (I
use engine oil as per the original factory recommendation). You want to get
enough on so the mesh gets fairly evenly wetted, but not so much as to have
it running out of the filter when it's back on the car!
Let them sit for a bit, about two slow beers worth, in order to distribute
the oil throughout the mesh, then turn them mesh side down and let them sit
on a bit of paper for a while, another beer or two, to drain any excess oil.
Then wipe the outside and put 'em on the car - you're ready to go! (BJ8
ownwers should allow the beer to dissipate a bit - the cleaners are a pain
to install as it is!)
This type of air cleaner works surprisingly well if they are properly
maintained. Lots of Healey engines have gone incredibly high mileages in
normal operating conditions, using the original air cleaners, without
noticeable early wear.
That may not be as true for the car owner though - depends on the above
noted beer!
Have fun,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 5:08 PM
Subject: Fw: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
I didn't get any responses to this so I thought I would try posting it
again.
> Any recommendations on how to clean the Factory "Brillo Pad" style Air
> filters on my 61 MKI 3000? (Perhaps K&N Filter cleaner?)
>
> After cleaning, should they be left dry or perhaps sprayed with something
> like K&N oil or Light motor oil? WD40?
>
> Brian Collins
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:12:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
With the J C Whitney unit, as I understand it, the earth connection is
common, ie the case of the unit is grounded to chassis, the case of the
radio is grounded, and the antenna shield is grounded (all as usual).
You stick -12v into the unit (ie the live supply of a positive earth
car) and you get out +12v - ie the live supply required for a negative
earth radio.
Thus the whole installation is treated as if you were installing a
positive earth radio, except that the power supply comes out of the
converter module.
If anyone thinks I've got this wrong I'd be grateful if they'd let me
know before I get one modules of these shipped from the States!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 12:44:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
> >To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 8:08 AM
> >Subject: Pos-earth/neg-earth converters (was Radio WOW)
> With the J C Whitney unit, as I understand it, the earth connection is
> common, ie the case of the unit is grounded to chassis, the case of the
> radio is grounded, and the antenna shield is grounded (all as usual).
> You stick -12v into the unit (ie the live supply of a positive earth
> car) and you get out +12v - ie the live supply required for a negative
> earth radio.
>
> Thus the whole installation is treated as if you were installing a
> positive earth radio, except that the power supply comes out of the
> converter module.
>
> If anyone thinks I've got this wrong I'd be grateful if they'd let me
> know before I get one modules of these shipped from the States!
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:31:28 -0500
Subject: Re:BN4 Parts
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 16:22:14 EST
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
The air cleaners
Remove the units and wash the gauze in a safe cleaning agent at the
recommended mileage.
When the gauze is clean and dry, re-oil it with engine oil and allow it to
drain before refitting to the engine.
Don
With a shop manual.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:59:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 11:20:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
I'm going to answer on the list - the paint info may be useful to some of
the others - hope you don't mind.
Just one question - just for research, you understand: how many beers does
it take before it becomes totally impossible to get the air cleaners back on
your BJ8?
I haven't had to repaint air cleaners for awhile now so don't know what
exactly is on the market at this time. I used a 'hammertone' type paint in
a light charcoal colour that seemed to be pretty much what the factory used.
Best bet would be to try your local auto parts store for a hammertone paint
in a can in as close a colour to the original as is possible. The cleaners
look like hell if you get them too silvery, but the hammertone texture seems
to be the way to get them authentic looking. Better stock up on the
'Coopers' decals too - the cleaning is hard on them! Next ones I do, I'm
going to see if there's a clear coat for the decals that will help them live
longer.
I have a parts washer now that I use for most cleaning stuff, but before
that, I found that camping fuel, which is basically white (naptha) gas
worked really well, particularly for air cleaners - it dries fast, and with
no oily residue. You have to be careful, it's more volatile than washer
solvent. Any of these solvents are hard on the skin - you can always wear
gloves if you're worried about it.
Cheers, ------------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot K. Paulson" <SPAULSON1@compuserve.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
Hi Earl,
I having been using your method of cleaning the filters (beers included)
but I wonder what you do to re-paint them. Is there a silver type paint on
the market that makes them look like original. That solvent is nasty stuff!
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:31:15 -0500
Subject: Wake up
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 17:46:08 -0500
Subject: Re:Keys
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Guy G" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 00:14:06 -0500
Subject: angle drive
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From "Lurker63" <Lurker63 at attbi.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:56:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Should OE Filters be oiled, or left Dry?
LMAO, Don!!!
"Hortense"
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:24:16 -0800
Subject: test
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:39:04 -0800
Subject: M is for Mystery :)
I thought the only indication the car was a "factory M" was the
"Louvred bonnet." Or does the "M" in the engine number have nothing
to do with the car being a 100M?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 21:34:12 -0600
Subject: Re: M is for Mystery :)
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:08:09 -0600
Subject: the NASCAR channel,Open Roads,misc. ramblings.....
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From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 02:24:16 -0500
Subject: Replacement Radios
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 04:39:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Replacement Radios
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:05:40 +0800
Subject: BJ7 fuel line
A question on originality.
A friend of mine is restoring a BJ7 a wants to know the correct position of
the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburettors. Is it on the RH
chassis rail to match the fuel pump or does it follow the LH chassis rail as
per the earlier models and then cross across the car at the transom to the
new fuel pump location on the RHS? Our references are not clear on the
issue.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 10:51:57 -0500
Subject: LeMans "M"
The "M" on the "motor number" has nothing to do with the LeMans modifications
on a particular car. All 100 cars have this designation following the engine
number.
Bill Wood
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:00:46 -0500
Subject: AHX 14
Pride of pre-ownership of the car was totally enjoyed by this former owner and
the fact that I saved the car from an uncertain fate many years ago makes
collecting cars so enjoyable, especially when they are Austin-Healey cars.
Looking forward to seeing the finish of the first production car 138031 which
was also saved by me from the wrecker in California.
Both cars will be included in my Austin-Healey book, if I can out-live the
finishing of it this year or next.
Bill Wood
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:02:08 EST
Subject: king pins
I spoke with Michael Grant at Moss and he was very concerned about the
problem. Subsequently he has re-sourced their kingpins from someone in
England who has the tooling and, I believe, supplied Quintin Hazel. That is,
the product the new source is providing is EXACTLY like the Q-H kingpins that
had been available in the past.
I have just finished installing one of these new sets and am happy to report
that they are really GREAT!!! They have the properly machined bushings,
sized to go in with just the proper "crush", and the correct cork rings.
Plus the zirc fittings have the correct size threads and hex. The fulcrtum
pins even fit the bottom hole in the king pin properly and don't require
additional fussing.
The new box these king pins come in is still plain brown, but it has the
following markings on it:
1) a blue-white-red Union Jack with MADE IIN GREAT BRITAIN
2) a white tag with QHQP295TCF and KING PIN SET BIG HEA and MADE IN :U.K.
I believe Moss has replaced their older, poor-quality stock and the new ones
are what you'll receive if you order now. If you have some of the bad ones
that you haven't installed, I suggest you contact Moss about trying to
exchange them.
And finally, for those of you who like to flame suppliers when parts aren't
perfect, be aware that many time suppliers do care, but need to get proper
input as to problems. I am very impressed with the way Moss resoponded to
this issue.
Remember that the parts business is very competitive regarding price, which
drives suppliers to look for the cheapest parts to sell. Many of you will
change suppliers over a few cents savings and that hurts those who may have
better parts at higher prices. You often get what you pay for. Just
remember.
Roger
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:13:29 -0500
Subject: EBay BN2 #1813132249
Bill Wood
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 08:40:06 -0800
Subject: Re: king pins
Thanks to Roger for pursuing this and congratulations to Moss Motors
for listening (I know you are :).
Think I'll order a bunch of parts JUST to show my support :)
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> A while back I posted a note alerting folks to the problem with some
> "generic" kingpins that Moss was selling at the time. They were a BEAR to
> install and required much modification of the bushings to even provide proper
> lubrication.
>
> I spoke with Michael Grant at Moss and he was very concerned about the
> problem. Subsequently he has re-sourced their kingpins from someone in
> England who has the tooling and, I believe, supplied Quintin Hazel. That is,
> the product the new source is providing is EXACTLY like the Q-H kingpins that
> had been available in the past.
>
> I have just finished installing one of these new sets and am happy to report
> that they are really GREAT!!! They have the properly machined bushings,
> sized to go in with just the proper "crush", and the correct cork rings.
> Plus the zirc fittings have the correct size threads and hex. The fulcrtum
> pins even fit the bottom hole in the king pin properly and don't require
> additional fussing.
>
> The new box these king pins come in is still plain brown, but it has the
> following markings on it:
>
> 1) a blue-white-red Union Jack with MADE IIN GREAT BRITAIN
> 2) a white tag with QHQP295TCF and KING PIN SET BIG HEA and MADE IN :U.K.
>
> I believe Moss has replaced their older, poor-quality stock and the new ones
> are what you'll receive if you order now. If you have some of the bad ones
> that you haven't installed, I suggest you contact Moss about trying to
> exchange them.
>
> And finally, for those of you who like to flame suppliers when parts aren't
> perfect, be aware that many time suppliers do care, but need to get proper
> input as to problems. I am very impressed with the way Moss resoponded to
> this issue.
>
> Remember that the parts business is very competitive regarding price, which
> drives suppliers to look for the cheapest parts to sell. Many of you will
> change suppliers over a few cents savings and that hurts those who may have
> better parts at higher prices. You often get what you pay for. Just
> remember.
>
> Roger
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:08:46 -0600
Subject: Re: EBay BN2 #1813132249
Car is probably not a factory Le Mans, but it may be an even rarer factory La
Habra. With that tach and the orginal Offy valve covers, who would question the
validity of the Ford V-8. I wonder if it runs. Doesn't have to, I guess.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
foxriverkid.vcf]
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:36:06 -0500
Subject: Re: king pins
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 11:02 AM
Subject: king pins
That is,
> the product the new source is providing is EXACTLY like the Q-H kingpins
that
> had been available in the past.
>
> I have just finished installing one of these new sets and am happy to
report
> that they are really GREAT!!! They have the properly machined bushings,
> sized to go in with just the proper "crush", and the correct cork rings.
> Plus the zirc fittings have the correct size threads and hex. The
fulcrtum
> pins even fit the bottom hole in the king pin properly and don't require
> additional fussing.
>
> The new box these king pins come in is still plain brown, but it has the
> following markings on it:
>
> 1) a blue-white-red Union Jack with MADE IIN GREAT BRITAIN
> 2) a white tag with QHQP295TCF and KING PIN SET BIG HEA and MADE IN
:U.K.
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 19:05:14 +0000
Subject: Re: LeMans "M"
I agree that an "M" suffix on a 100 Engine Number does not have anything
to do with an "M" spec car.
However I was given a different explanation from a Morris apprentice
when I was based at BMC Cowley in the early 1960s.
The M suffix is apparently an indication that the engine was built at a
Morris Engines Plant in Coventry. This being part of the rationalisation
after the formation of BMC.
All earlier 100 engines did not have the "M" suffix and where I
understand made in an Austin Longbridge or satellite plant.
Readers might be interested to know that the first engine carrying an
"M" suffix to the engine number was, accordinging to our Register,
fitted to a car built on the 1st May 1954. If anybody has a car built
prior to this with an "M" suffix original engine number we would be
pleased to know.
All the best
>
>The "M" on the "motor number" has nothing to do with the LeMans modifications
>on a particular car. All 100 cars have this designation following the engine
>number.
>
>Bill Wood
>
--
John Harper
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 14:40:02 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ7 fuel line
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Rowe
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 8:06 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: BJ7 fuel line
Hi all
A question on originality.
A friend of mine is restoring a BJ7 a wants to know the correct position of
the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburettors. Is it on the RH
chassis rail to match the fuel pump or does it follow the LH chassis rail as
per the earlier models and then cross across the car at the transom to the
new fuel pump location on the RHS? Our references are not clear on the
issue.
TIA
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road
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From rcomito <rcomito at uia.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:43:25 -0800
Subject: California Healey Week
I have attached event registration form, in PDF format, along with a
schedule of activities, in MS Word format. You will also find this
information and more on the San Diego Austin Healey Club web site. I
recommend that if you are interested in attending the event you send
in your registration form as soon as possible. Solvang is well
visited especially during the summer months and rooms go fast. Also
please note that the registration fee changes after April 1st and
that you will also not be able to pre-order regalia items after that
date,
Here are some numbers that you might need:
Solvang Royal Scandinavian Inn 800-624-5572, www.royalscandinavianinn.com
San Diego Austin Healey Club web site: www.sdhealey.org
Rally to Solvang information:rader@interword.net
General information: rcomito@uia.net
See you in Solvang
Ralph Comito
President
Austin Healey Association
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mac-binhex40 which had
a name of CHW_2002_schedule_update.doc_.d]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/mac-binhex40 which had
a name of CHW02_Reg.pdf_1_.pdf]
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From ajtoepfe <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 15:14:51 -0700
Subject: 1959 BT7 For Sale
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 18:39:50 EST
Subject: Re: EBay BN2 #1813132249
Rick
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 19:39:12 EST
Subject: Re: king pins
> This is great, but are they incorporating the correct castellated nut and
> corresponding cotter pin holes at the top of the pin, or do we still deal
> with the nylock nut business?
For a LONG time they have not had the castellated nut. I can remember
putting in new sets at least 20 years ago and they were Q-H but with lthe
nyloc nut. I guess it doesn't hurt to ask, but please don't be too picky.
At least we have available a very serviceable replacement part again.
Roger
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 20:14:03 EST
Subject: Re: king pins
Thanks,
John
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From "Cory LeBlanc" <cleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 16:04:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Powder coating
My car was restored by Randy Cook (Healey Masters) and Tom Colby
(Speedwell). They recommended powder coating the frame and that is what I
did. My observation is that you need to be careful about the threaded points
where miscellaneous stuff bolts to the frame.
The advantages are that the frame, especially the wheel wells are difficult
to chip. The finish is durable. However I have needed to touch-up the frame
paint. The rally good stuff to powder coat is the suspension.
I just put my car on an auto transporter and when we did, I was glad that
the strap down points were powder coated. (When restoring the frame one
should install strap down points for these moments.)
Also I have not been able to contact Healey Masters or Speedwell for about 2
years.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 22:31:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Heat Shields
I took a closer look at the moss information and it
may be that your BT7 did NOT have it originally. What
was confusing for me is my BN1 has it and my BJ8 has
it, and most BN7s and BT7s I've seen has it - so I
assumed all healeys had it.
If you look closely at the moss catalogue information,
however, it seems to infer that BN4s, BN6s, and
BN7/BT7s up to #13750 did not have the exhaust shield.
So this means if your BT7 is an early model BT7
before #13750, then that means it did not have this
sheet originally. Hope that's where the confusion is
coming in.
Cheers,
Alan
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 22:28:00 EST
Subject: Re: king pins
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 20:01:54 -0800
Subject: Re: was Powder coating. now tie downs
Listers.
front tie downs. the Canadian cars came with tow eyes (tow hooks) that
bolt on with the front bumper brackets. They are perfect for tying down
the front end. Nothing gets bent.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 22:54:45 -0500
Subject: Re: king pins
I agree with Roger - the units that have been out there for years have had
Nylocks. Even the ones I purchased in England. This is not a difficult
problem to over come. You can easily add a castellated nut and drill for the
split pin if that's important. Sometimes you have to do a little work to make
the car the way you want it.
Thanks,
John
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Bill Katz" <bkatz@handsonresearch.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 21:24:59 -0500
Subject: Healey repair shop
I think his name is Roger Ninotti (sp??) and the shop was Healey Coop. I
got some parts from him years ago and would like to contact him if possible.
Ed Adams - this is your neighborhood - what gives, is Roger selling all
his used parts??
Thanks,
Charley Braum
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 18:01:26 -0600
Subject: Re: EBay BN2 #1813132249
REALLY! 'cause that's the rare blacked out grill, floor mounted tach
model!!!
HoYo
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
>I just hope nobody bastardizes this one by putting a Healey motor in it! :-)
>
>Rick
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:39:17 -0800
Subject: California Healey Week & the Rally
Then come on down to our Rally to Summerland (just below Santa
Barbara). We will be leaving West los Angeles starting at 9:30 AM
Thursday May 2, 2002.
The route will take you through some great residential districts in
Brentwood and Pacific Palisades. Then it is north through the Santa
Monica mountains and then down into the Oxnard plains.
Houses, beach, twisty roads, hippies, farmland, Ocean, nurseries and lunch.
About 100 miles and three hours from start to lunch.
Price: Free! I just need to know who is going to show up.
For further info:
Rader@interworld.net
or phone: 310.306.6060
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
rcomito wrote:
> --
> California Healey Week will be held May 2-5, 2002 in Solvang,
> California which is located about 1 hour north of Santa Barbara.
> Healey headquarters will located in the beautiful Solvang Royal
> Scandinavian Inn, just behind the historic Santa Inez Mission in town.
>
> I have attached event registration form, in PDF format, along with a
> schedule of activities, in MS Word format. You will also find this
> information and more on the San Diego Austin Healey Club web site. I
> recommend that if you are interested in attending the event you send
> in your registration form as soon as possible. Solvang is well
> visited especially during the summer months and rooms go fast. Also
> please note that the registration fee changes after April 1st and
> that you will also not be able to pre-order regalia items after that
> date,
>
> Here are some numbers that you might need:
> Solvang Royal Scandinavian Inn 800-624-5572, www.royalscandinavianinn.com
> San Diego Austin Healey Club web site: www.sdhealey.org
> Rally to Solvang information: rader@interword.net
> General information: rcomito@uia.net
>
> See you in Solvang
>
> Ralph Comito
> President
> Austin Healey Association
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 23:40:31 -0800
Subject: Re: now tie downs
"M.E. & E.A. Driver" wrote:
> Hi Ron
>
> You are right on, they are on my BJ8 and solve more than a few
> problems. Bill Bolton has them for sale or the pattern can be
> found on the AH Owners Assoc. of British Columbia web site.
>
> Kind regards
> Ed
> Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
> '65 BJ8
>
> P.S. Where winter seems endless, lows for this week are -20 to
> -26C - RATS!!
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
> >
> > Cory LeBlanc wrote:
> > I just put my car on an auto transporter and when we did, I was glad that
> > the strap down points were powder coated. (When restoring the frame one
> > should install strap down points for these moments.)
> >
> > Listers.
> > front tie downs. the Canadian cars came with tow eyes (tow hooks) that
> > bolt on with the front bumper brackets. They are perfect for tying down
> > the front end. Nothing gets bent.
> > Ron Rader
> > 1965 BJ8
> >
> > /
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 02:52:52 EST
Subject: Re: was Powder coating. now tie downs
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 00:41:08 +1100
Subject: 1965 or 1966 Lucas parts list?
Does anyone on the list have a copy of the Lucas 1965 or 1966 Lucas spare
parts list?
If so, any chance you can email me a scan of the BJ8 distributor page (which
gives the part numbers for all the bits inside the 40966 distributor) or fax
it to me?
Please contact me off list if you can help.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 08:30:21 -0500
Subject: Jag info
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:28:00 +0100
Subject: Roll-up windows : drawing
I am looking for a book or place where I can find how the roll-up mechanism
of the BJ8 functions. It is not in the Haynes manual and is vaguely
described in the users manual. More specifically I would like to know how
the window and door handle are exactly fixed, before I start dismantling the
whole thing.
Thanks and happy healeying,
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8 66
BN1 Coupe
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: Re:Keys
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:03:08 -0600
Subject: Anti-corrosive Strip
Sorry if this is a duplicate message, but I'm not sure if my original message
got through.
Have any of you had any experience with anti-corrosive strips or any other
protection placed between the wing and chassis?
Thanks for any input.
Scott Helms
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From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:38:27 EST
Subject: Re: AHX 14 (When is it airing again)
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From "Gary Black (Hexagon Transportation Consultants)"
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:01:36 -0800
Subject: Sears Point Vintage Race
I will be racing my BN7 at Sears Point this weekend. If anyone wants to
come watch, I can give you a ride around the track at lunch time Saturday
or Sunday. Let me know.
Gary K. Black
HEXAGON TRANSPORTATION CONSULTANTS, INC.
40 S. Market Street, Suite 600
San Jose, CA 95113
Tel: 408-971-6100
Fax: 408-971-6102
www.hextrans.com
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:04:10 -0800
Subject: Show
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:36:05 -0600
Subject: test
BILSTEIN Leading the Race
Udo Putzke
R&D Senior Technician
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 12:55:09 EST
Subject: BN1 3-speed question
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:05:35 -0600
Subject: BJ8?
MR JAJA
61 BT7
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 10:16:52 -0600
Subject: Frame Galvenizing
MR JAJA
61 BT7
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:19:25 EST
Subject: Re: was Powder coating. now tie downs
<< Listers.
front tie downs. the Canadian cars came with tow eyes (tow hooks) that
bolt on with the front bumper brackets. They are perfect for tying down
the front end. Nothing gets bent.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8 >>
Bill Bolton (tricarb@aol.com) makes a very nice laser-cut set of reproduction
tow hooks.
Cheers
Gary
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:36:43 EST
Subject: Re: was Powder coating. now tie downs
<< front tie downs. the Canadian cars came with tow eyes (tow hooks) that
bolt on with the front bumper brackets. >>
Now all we need is someone to make the rear and they can use the Healey for
pulling logs out of the Canadian forest. (-:{
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 11:48:51 -0600
Subject: test
MR JAJA
61 BT7
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:16:35 EST
Subject: leather straps
www.eleathersupply.com
Cheers,
John Wright
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 13:23:47 -0800
Subject: Seat Base Frame
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.(inside, enjoying a nice snowy spring? day!!)
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:27:21 EST
Subject: Re: leather straps
I think most medium to large size cities have a store like this one. Here in
Denver there is one that does retail and wholesale. They are in a wharehouse
and have just about anything you would want regarding leather and leather
supplies and tools. Of course, I have to pay local tax, but no shipping. I
found out about them by looking in our yellow pages when I had the Healey
belt buckles made and wanted to make a belt to put one of them on. It looks
great and I almost always get comments when I wear it. They sold me the
tools to put an edge line on the belt and to press the edges for the finished
look. ANd the dye and sealant to finish the leather. Something you might
consider for your strap (although you may not need the dye).
Richard
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:02:04 -0800
Subject: front spring seat bumper question - replacements too tall?
Local inquiry shows that what I have is what Moss has been providing
for some time, but I can't find anyone who can tell me whether the
Moss replacement will work properly in a big Healey (one part number
from late BN1 to BJ8, and before that the mounting threads were BSF
instead of UNF). I don't want to use the originals because one of
them shows signs of the rubber separating from the steel base.
So, should I use the replacements as is? saw an inch off them and use
them? (with or without reshaping on a grinder) , or is there some
other better solution?
-Roland
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:12:34 -0600
Subject: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:26:53 -0600
Subject: Re: AHX 14 (When is it airing again)
GeneralFolder@aol.com wrote:
>Did anyone tape the show or know when it will be airing again. I'm probably
>the only yo-yo out there that missed it....
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:44:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:50:22 EST
Subject: Re: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:10:41 -0600
Subject: Marie Eckert
MR JAJA
61 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:50:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
There are many things out there, including the use of
electrical tape or moss' "anti-corrosive" tape which I
think is just another version of electrical tape....
unless I am mistaken.
You can also get zinc strips, as this will act as a
sacraficial anode for the whole vehicle... I think
leaf spring suppliers can provide materials here that
will work - although I haven't anybody to recommend.
The downside of using this, however, is in humid
climates you may have to tighten up the body every
couple of years or so.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- austrheamgafun@mail.arczip.com wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Sorry if this is a duplicate message, but I'm not
> sure if my original message got through.
>
> Have any of you had any experience with
> anti-corrosive strips or any other protection placed
> between the wing and chassis?
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Scott Helms
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:13:29 -0500
Subject: Re: was Powder coating. now tie downs
tom
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com <Editorgary@aol.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, March 18, 2002 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: was Powder coating. now tie downs
>In a message dated 3/17/02 7:54:58 PM, rader@interworld.net writes:
>
><< Listers.
>front tie downs. the Canadian cars came with tow eyes (tow hooks) that
>bolt on with the front bumper brackets. They are perfect for tying down
>the front end. Nothing gets bent.
>Ron Rader
>1965 BJ8 >>
>
>Bill Bolton (tricarb@aol.com) makes a very nice laser-cut set of
reproduction
>tow hooks.
>Cheers
>Gary
>
>///
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 18:28:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete - ask Pete Cowper
I think Pete Cowper's got a set of four at his house,
which he so reluctantly removed from his healey about
four months ago. I think they're over 20 years old
but still 85% tread .... Pete's a Scotsman to boot...
so caveat emptor! ;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers, I'm looking to buy a pair of Michelin X
> (or maybe XZX) tires for
> my BT7 Mk2. They are 165-15 and they would have the
> tread pattern that was
> so popular in the 1960 - 70 era. Can anyone help me
> out with a source??
> Local Michelin dealers think I'm crazy...maybe
> they're right.....Help would
> be appreciated. Thanks!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:03:45 -0800
Subject: Re: AHX 14 (When is it airing again)
> Did anyone tape the show or know when it will be airing again. I'm probably
> the only yo-yo out there that missed it....
>
Nope! I forgot Speedchannel on-line was EST. Being on the left coast, I missed
it too. I'd prefer to tape it myself if it airs again. I was totally
embarrassed at work today when my boss, who knows I'm into Healeys, was
describing it to me! Sheesh!
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, CA
BN1 #663
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:11:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
Alan
HBJ8L/34297
From: <austrheamgafun@mail.arczip.com>
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 10:03 AM
Subject: Anti-corrosive Strip
> Have any of you had any experience with anti-corrosive strips or any other
protection placed between the wing and chassis?
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:25:46 -0800
Subject: Re: AHX 14 (When is it airing again)
3/19 4:30am
3/20 9:00am
3/22 5:30am
3/23 4:30am
3/24 7:00am
3/25 12:00am
3/26 4:30am
3/27 9:00am
3/29 5:30am
All times PST.
----------------
At 07:03 PM 3/18/2002, you wrote:
>GeneralFolder@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Did anyone tape the show or know when it will be airing again. I'm probably
> > the only yo-yo out there that missed it....
> >
>
>Nope! I forgot Speedchannel on-line was EST. Being on the left coast, I
>missed
>it too. I'd prefer to tape it myself if it airs again. I was totally
>embarrassed at work today when my boss, who knows I'm into Healeys, was
>describing it to me! Sheesh!
>
>Bill Barnett
>Santa Ana, CA
>BN1 #663
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From ajtoepfe <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 20:12:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
> From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
> Reply-To: "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com>
> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:12:34 -0600
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "'Spridget
> List'"<spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
>
> Hi Listers, I'm looking to buy a pair of Michelin X (or maybe XZX) tires for
> my BT7 Mk2. They are 165-15 and they would have the tread pattern that was
> so popular in the 1960 - 70 era. Can anyone help me out with a source??
> Local Michelin dealers think I'm crazy...maybe they're right.....Help would
> be appreciated. Thanks!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:23:23 -0800
Subject: Leaf spring screws
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
John
'62 BT7
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:27:15 -0800
Subject: Jump Start - Ancedotal to healeys
Bet you that would make Lucas light up in his grave if he knew!
John
'62 BT7
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From JRLNJ at aol.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:13:00 EST
Subject: Jag info
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From "John Sawyer" <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:25:08 -0800
Subject: Re: Roll-up windows : drawing
John Sawyer 67 BJ8
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:39:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
Alan,
I beg to differ on the use of zinc. Noting that the 1st ionization energy
is about 50% lower for Al than Zn, it will be the Al which will most readily
lose the electrons and deteriorate and the Zn only slightly. I suspect the
2nd and 3rd IE are similar in relationship.
If only the Fe and Zn were in contact then the Zn would indeed protect the
iron. This application is widespread. However, in this case since the Al
is still present and in contact with the Fe and Zn, the Al still loses! The
only way to really isolate the Fe from the Al is to separate them. This can
be done with various tapes, but one will note that you still have steel
bolts and clips connecting the fenders with the shroud.
IMHO Why all the fuss? Very few of these cars are driven in the weather and
on a daily basis any longer so are not exposed to the harsh conditions of
their first 10-20 years. In addition, having small gaps between the fenders
and shrouds allows water to drain out more effectively, not trapping it by
some sort of tape.
My .02
Keith Pennell
B.S. Chemistry
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:01:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
I hadn't realized the ionization energy of aluminum is
even lower than zinc.... sorry for the bad advice.
It seems to me, then, the best protection against
corrosion here really is just a nice solid & complete
coat of paint on the flanges - that will allow good
drainage and minimize the contact beween the metals as
much as possible.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
> Alan,
>
> I beg to differ on the use of zinc. Noting that the
> 1st ionization energy
> is about 50% lower for Al than Zn, it will be the Al
> which will most readily
> lose the electrons and deteriorate and the Zn only
> slightly. I suspect the
> 2nd and 3rd IE are similar in relationship.
>
> If only the Fe and Zn were in contact then the Zn
> would indeed protect the
> iron. This application is widespread. However, in
> this case since the Al
> is still present and in contact with the Fe and Zn,
> the Al still loses! The
> only way to really isolate the Fe from the Al is to
> separate them. This can
> be done with various tapes, but one will note that
> you still have steel
> bolts and clips connecting the fenders with the
> shroud.
>
> IMHO Why all the fuss? Very few of these cars are
> driven in the weather and
> on a daily basis any longer so are not exposed to
> the harsh conditions of
> their first 10-20 years. In addition, having small
> gaps between the fenders
> and shrouds allows water to drain out more
> effectively, not trapping it by
> some sort of tape.
>
> My .02
> Keith Pennell
> B.S. Chemistry
Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
http://sports.yahoo.com/
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:45:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
YMMV - most definitely. I like a heavy coat of epoxy primer as
insulator, but I think my BN1 had the dark grey gooey stuff in the gap
between fender and shroud. It sure was tough to clean up, but it
worked.
-Roland
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:52:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
Bob
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:21:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Alan,
>
> I beg to differ on the use of zinc. Noting that the 1st ionization energy
> is about 50% lower for Al than Zn, it will be the Al which will most readily
> lose the electrons and deteriorate and the Zn only slightly. I suspect the
> 2nd and 3rd IE are similar in relationship.
> My .02
> Keith Pennell
> B.S. Chemistry
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 01:12:26 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Forwarded: Re: Michelin X - Obsolete?
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:47:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Michelin X - Obsolete?
> I think Pete Cowper's got a set of four at his house, which he so
> reluctantly removed from his Healey . . .
Aye . . .and right fine tyres they were for those 32 years they carried
my Healey Beast.
I might point out that the four new Michelin Pilot XGT-H4 tires carried
me all the way to California Healey Week at Rio Bravo and back home
again last June . . . are still holding all the air inside of them.
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:59:55 -0000
Subject: Replacing fuel line
1) Has anyone had any luck "squeezing" a fuel pipe back into
shape?
2) I'd guess that this pipe is the original. Am I right in
thinking it's steel?
3) Didn't I see someone post to the effect that he'd used
flexible copper and been pleased with ease of installation and
overall efficiency? (Is that someone reading this?) Any comments
on what type of pipe to use.
The symptoms seemed to point at there being a problem caused by
the pipe running dry in the new ally tank whilst charging up
steep hills. It does it on the flat as well.
This is how it goes: Foot flat on the floor in 4th OD. Up to
about 75, no problem. Then it'll cut if I don't ease off. She'll
keep accelerating, slowly, if I do ease off, but, if I want to
keep her at high revs, she won't have it. Don't get the
impression that I thrash the car up hill and down dale..I don't.
I just want to draw a line under this issue.
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From austrheamgafun at mail.arczip.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:31:45 -0600
Subject: Re: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
Coker tire supposedly carries them. Several months ago I spoke with a
salesman at the Tire Rack (near where I live) who quoted me a very
decent price, and told me they had plenty in stock. When I contacted
him a week later to make arrangements to go pick them up at the
warehouse, he told me that he was mistaken and they had no more in
stock. All I can figure is that someone may have bought all of their
stock within that time.
Scott Helms
"Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear@GarverInc.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Listers, I'm looking to buy a pair of Michelin X (or maybe XZX) tires for
> my BT7 Mk2. They are 165-15 and they would have the tread pattern that was
> so popular in the 1960 - 70 era. Can anyone help me out with a source??
> Local Michelin dealers think I'm crazy...maybe they're right.....Help would
> be appreciated. Thanks!!
> Jack Brashear
> Little Rock, Arkansas
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From <jhansen at state.de.us> (Jeff Hansen)
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 7:53:21 EST
Subject: sprite info
From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 07:30:06 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Replacing fuel line
> You may all recall that I've requested help regarding my car's
> habit of running out of go, even quitting, when under hard
> acceleration. I've eliminated most problems and, remaining 99%
> sure that it's a fuel problem, I am drawn to the possibility that
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:30:39 -0500
Subject: Re: AHX 14 (When is it airing again)
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 01:06:14 +1100
Subject: 1965 or 1966 Lucas parts list - THANKS guys.
From STEVEN.SCHMIDT at Inrange.com
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:08:03 -0500
Subject: jaguar question
I am contemplating purchasing a 76 XJ6C for a daily driver.
There is some evidence of overheating in its history.
Does any one out there know what the compression should
be on a "healthy" 4.2 Litre 6?
Steve Schmidt
BJ7
XJS
XJ6C???
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from as everything else seems clean. Any ideas? Could it be from the bolt
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:21:29 -0500
Subject: Oil on tappet cover
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt at erols.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:27:56 -0500
Subject: sacrificial zinc
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:33:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Replacing fuel line
Read an article in _Skinned Knuckles_ (magazine dedicated to old
car repair and restoration) once where the author had bought a Cadillac
at a bargain price because the car exhibited similar loss of power symptoms.
Turns out the problem was a kink in the fuel line that caused cavitation of the
fuel (i.e. "vapor lock") at certain, higher flow rates.
Not a definitive answer, I know, but maybe it's of some use to you.
Bob
From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:56:50 -0500
Subject: Capital Classic 2002
For more information please visit our Web site at:
http://www.capitalhealeys.org.
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://www.capitalhealeys.org
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Howard Young <hoyo@bellsouth.net>
To: HealeyRic2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:15:45 -0500
Subject: Hood chrome trim
Thanks,
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:21:50 -0500
Subject: Re: sacrificial zinc
> Zinc's are still used on fiberglass boats most specifically near the prop
> since that is an exposed metal surface. Zinc reacts with salt water much
> easier than stainless steel thereby protecting the steel for the corrosive
> effects of the salt water. They are much easier and cheaper to replace
than
> the stainless parts.
>
> I don't believe that they are needed for regular water (rain) - just salt
> water so I would question the necessity of having zinc unless the car is
> driven after a road issalted for snow conditions.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 9:27 AM
> Subject: sacrificial zinc
>
>
> > While I cannot argue the Chemistry ( c's in chemistry 25 years ago ) , I
> can
> > tell you that it was routine practice to hang zinc bars off the bow and
> stern
> > of aluminum yachts to minimize galvanic action .When in a slip they were
> > connected by alligator clamps to an unpainted part of the boat. These
were
> > expensive boats with alot of brains and money behind their upkeep.Also ,
> FWIW
> > , the shroud/fender flanges and seams of my BJ8 were treated with ZRC (
> zinc
> > rich compound ) in 1982 when the car was apart for painting and they
> still
> > look good today. Michael Shepard 67 BJ8 Balto Md
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:07:24 EST
Subject: Re: Hood chrome trim
<< The original washers are no longer
available. The guy at Moss Motors very kindly sorted out a wedge shaped
spring washer but I was wondering if I should use a bigger, flat washer.
Someone mentioned a fiber washer, but I can't seem to find anywhere that
sells fiber or nylon washers for a 3/16 bolt. I know this is trivial, but I
don't want to screw up the new chrome piece. >>
Any kind of washer will do (They don't show) -- I recall going to my hardware
store and sorting through the rubber washers until I found some of the right
size. Used two on each bolt to get the right thickness. You still have to be
careful of how you tighten them.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:08:31 EST
Subject: Re: Hood chrome trim
cost 0.75
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:54:34 -0800
Subject: Re: jaguar question
STEVEN.SCHMIDT@Inrange.com wrote:
>Listers,
>
>I am contemplating purchasing a 76 XJ6C for a daily driver.
> There is some evidence of overheating in its history.
> Does any one out there know what the compression should
> be on a "healthy" 4.2 Litre 6?
>
>Steve Schmidt
>BJ7
>XJS
>XJ6C
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:57:44 -0800
Subject: Saturday tour of western railway Museum
EVENT ALERT
Saturday March 23
Day trip to the Western Railway Museum
Brunch at the Hotel Del Rio in Isleton
Meet up at the Vineyards Restaurant parking lot in Pleasanton at 9AM on
Saturday, March 23. We'll head north on I-680 to Concord, pick up 242 to 4
and Continue along the Sacramento River to Antioch, across the Antioch
Bridge, and onto 160. up to Isleton for Brunch at the Hotel Del Rio.
Return to Rio Vista and the railway museum will be via back roads through
the Delta, and will include two short ferry crossings.
The Western Railway Museum is located at Rio Vista Junction on Highway 12,
approximately 12 miles east of Highway 80 (about midway between
Suisun-Fairfield and Rio Vista).
Directions to the Vineyard: Take Bernal Road exit on I-680 (below
I-580)
to downtown Pleasanton. Take a left on first Street and head up to Neal
Avenue. Take a left. The Vineyards (if it's still there) was located in
the old Pleasanton railroad station. The parking lot is in the back.
Directions to the Hotel Del Rio: The Hotel is located in
downtown Iselton
on the left heading east.
For more information on the Western Railway Museum go to the web site at
www.wrm.org
Contact John Trifari
408-541-9608
408-373-6479 (cell phone)
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:12:16 -0600
Subject: FW: Obsolete Michelins Found
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:16:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Michelin X Tires - Maybe obsolete
can I suggest that you look at
http://www.dunloptyres.co.uk/uk00home.html/ . Dunlop still make those
original tyres (sorry Brit spelling)going back pre WWII. If you want
them............
Including Roadspeeds.....
their distributors are Vintage Tyre Co. on http://www.vintage-tyres.com/
They MUST have a distributor in the US
Regards
Peter Dzwig
Jerry Wall wrote:
>jack,
>why don't you use the michelin 175x15 available from hendrix wire wheel ? the
>175 is practically the same height as the original 590x15 dunlop roadspeed.
>will look forward to seeing you again in may at the hot springs all british.
>happy healeying,
>jerry
>Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> >
> > Hi Listers, I'm looking to buy a pair of Michelin X (or maybe XZX) tires for
> > my BT7 Mk2. They are 165-15 and they would have the tread pattern that was
> > so popular in the 1960 - 70 era. Can anyone help me out with a source??
> > Local Michelin dealers think I'm crazy...maybe they're right.....Help would
> > be appreciated. Thanks!!
> > Jack Brashear
> > Little Rock, Arkansas
> >
> > [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
> >
> > //
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:31:59 -0800
Subject: Steering Box Rebuild Notes-Bushing & Shaft
Posting this for the Archives.
I put a new bush in my steering box and honed it to size with a brake hone.
Takes about 10-15 minutes of honing. I used a new brake hone with medium
stones and ATF as cutting oil.
It looks to be a slight improvement over the old bush--but you can still see
the play. What I should have realized is the area at the top of the splines
is unworn and has a larger diameter than the bearing surface. .996" vs
.993". Therefore that area either has to be ground down first, or there will
be slop in the bush. The machine shop I spoke with suggested a crankshaft
grinding shop to clean up the shaft. I didn't do this because mine's not
that bad and I gotta lotta other expenses as you can well imagine, it being
a Healey and all.
The bush ID miked to .983" so a crank grinder could take about .010 off the
shaft.
One user suggested putting 2 bushings in there, but the casting would have
to be bored out because the area above where the bush goes is rough and a
few thou would have to be removed. The rocker shaft is a little rough in the
middle, too. Putting 2 bushings in and grinding the shaft to size sounds
like an elegant solution, though.
There was room to put 2 of the skinny Chicago Rawhide seals in place of the
original. Hope they work.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:34:18 +0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 fuel line thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rowe" <jarowe@iprimus.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 9:05 PM
Subject: BJ7 fuel line
> Hi all
>
> A question on originality.
>
> A friend of mine is restoring a BJ7 a wants to know the correct position
of
> the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburettors. Is it on the RH
> chassis rail to match the fuel pump or does it follow the LH chassis rail
as
> per the earlier models and then cross across the car at the transom to the
> new fuel pump location on the RHS? Our references are not clear on the
> issue.
>
> TIA
>
> Regards
>
> John Rowe
> Perth
> Western Australia
> BT7 on the road
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:18:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
'67 BJ8 (going into paint booth on Friday!)
> Have any of you had any experience with anti-corrosive strips or any other
protection placed between the wing and chassis?
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:44:48 EST
Subject: BN1 master cylinder
Thanks
Carroll
BN1 #484
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:53:13 EST
Subject: Wiring Harness - BN4
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:05:09 -0800
Subject: tires
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:06:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Seat Base Frames
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:31:11 EST
Subject: Re: Hood chrome trim
<< Any kind of washer will do (They don't show) -- I recall going to my
hardware
store and sorting through the rubber washers until I found some of the right
size. Used two on each bolt to get the right thickness. You still have to be
careful of how you tighten them. >>
Careful is the key word. Over tighten and you have some nice little dimples
in your new chrome piece. Snugg them up and put some RTV on the studs and
they won't come off.
Don
Healey parts <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:50:47 -0800
Subject: British Car Magazine #96 April
I did not receive my copy of this months issue of British Car until this
weekend. Boy was I surprised to open it to "Dispatches". Even though pre warned
by someone on this list, it was a nice picture of my BJ8 on page 5. If Bill
Rooklidge would have yelled I would have turned and smiled! But if he had
caught my face you probably would not have printed the picture.
Second surprise. You also have a picture of my newly acquired 1967 E Type FHC
on page 55. After attending Keith Martin's Insiders view on buying a car at
Auction I thought I was prepared for the process. As Keith said, it is all
about the drama of the moment. The work that follows on the E Type could fill a
2 page story.
My current project is to turn the E into as reliable of a Grand Rally car as my
BJ8. It will probably cost as much money as the BJ8 did but don't tell my wife.
I am planning on driving it Phoenix for the Copperstate 1000 in April.
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
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From JRLNJ at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:45:12 EST
Subject: XJ6 question
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:47:45 -0600
Subject: First Day of Spring!
Well the calendar may state the first day of spring....wind
rushing through my hair as the rumble and bark from the exhaust
system of my BJ8 greets my ear, ah spring! NOT SO it is -26C this
morning. These beautiful images await spring here in the great
white north, the true frozen tundra!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
'65 BJ8
'89 Morgan 4/4
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From "UDO PUTZKE" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 07:30:43 -0600
Subject: RE: U-bolt look
MR JAJA
61 BT7
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:01:21 EST
Subject: Re: jaguar question
Then you can join a Jag list.
Enjoy,
Rick
San Diego
BN6
XJ6
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 18:03:32 -0500
Subject: wishbone arm
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From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:05:35 -0800
Subject: Seat Runners
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:23:33 +1100
Subject: Nash Healey Badge
Yes I know it's silly question time.
A good friend is preparing a Healey and Austin-Healey poster and noticed the
rather distinctive Nash Healey badge on the photo of the example he is
painting from.
However he needs more detail and has asked for help.
Does anyone have a clear photo/image of a Nash Healey badge they can email
me?
Regards and thanks
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (Restoration started)
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:46:43 +1100
Subject: RE: XJ6 question
Must have missed the question. I also have a 1976 XJ6 that I have been
intimately involved with.
How can I help?
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: JRLNJ@aol.com [mailto:JRLNJ@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:45 AM
To: STEVEN.SCHMIDT@Inrange.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: XJ6 question
Steve- I don't know the XJ6 info, but have you checked: www.jag-lovers.org?
Maybe you can find a link to an XJ6 list, or website.
Ray Lynch
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 20:04:18 EST
Subject: Re: Seat Runners
> I'd suggest a grease, like wheel bearing grease. Something with body so
> that it doesn't "melt" out and stain your carpet. You don't need a lot,
> and when putting it in be sure to operate the runners to the full extent of
> their range to coat the full operating track length.
Roger
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:50:44 -0500
Subject: re jaguar
Carroll Top Down Restorations
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 23:47:06 -0500
Subject: Passing of a Big Healey
Tuesday, March 19, 2002 marked the official passing of another Big Healey. On
this date the car ID plate was removed from the firewall and mounted on the
window sash in my garage taking up an honored position beside the plate of
HBJ8L/41820.
Identification of the deceased: HBN7L/10319
Cause of death: terminal oxidation caused by extended exposure to salted
highways of West Virginia
Survivors: Older sister HBN7L/3604, younger brother HBJ8L/31885 and lots of
other brothers and sisters worldwide with variations in body, color,
accesories, and condition. Number unknown.
The deceased may be viewed (in part) at Old Dominion Recycling, Hampton, VA
In lieu of flowers please send remembrances to:
Rusty Pieces
2 Old Avenue
Ferrous Oxide, IA
We will miss you!
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 23:55:14 EST
Subject: Re: Passing of a Big Healey
<< Identification of the deceased: HBN7L/10319 >>
BN7. now that's sad.
I hope the shrouds or other 2-seater bits could be donated to save another.
Rick
San Diego
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:01:14 -0500
Subject: BN-4n Info
Four questions (because I don't know)
This car has no overdrive - what effect on value?
Seller is talking ~ US $10 K - comments?
What else to look for?
If we get the VIN#, is there a 100-6 registry?
Thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 00:17:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Passing of a Big Healey
RIP,
Charley
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 00:30:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Passing of a Big Healey
Little Freddie "Dirtbag" Criswell
On Wed, 20 Mar 2002 23:47:06 -0500 ****h P****** <P******@wxyz.com> wrote:
Public Notice:
Identification of the deceased: [CENSORED]
Cause of death: terminal oxidation
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:56:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Passing of a Big Healey
Bruce Steele
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Pennell
To: Healey List
Cc: Darrell Miller
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 8:47 PM
Subject: Passing of a Big Healey
Public Notice:
Tuesday, March 19, 2002 marked the official passing of another Big Healey.
On
this date the car ID plate was removed from the firewall and mounted on the
window sash in my garage taking up an honored position beside the plate of
HBJ8L/41820.
Identification of the deceased: HBN7L/10319
Cause of death: terminal oxidation caused by extended exposure to salted
highways of West Virginia
Survivors: Older sister HBN7L/3604, younger brother HBJ8L/31885 and lots of
other brothers and sisters worldwide with variations in body, color,
accesories, and condition. Number unknown.
The deceased may be viewed (in part) at Old Dominion Recycling, Hampton, VA
In lieu of flowers please send remembrances to:
Rusty Pieces
2 Old Avenue
Ferrous Oxide, IA
We will miss you!
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:46:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Passing of a Big Healey
Steve
61 BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 11:47 PM
To: Healey List
Cc: Darrell Miller
Subject: Passing of a Big Healey
Identification of the deceased: HBN7L/10319
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 09:34:01 EST
Subject: Re: BN-4n Info
As far as what to look for? My favorite ads are the ones that say new tires
and muffler. What about the frame? You can get tires and muffler anywhere,
but if the frame is rotted then a complete restoration or replacement is
needed.
As for the overdrive: If there is a "S" in the VIN, it stands for Standard
and the car came as not-deluxe. It would be missing the wire wheels, having
solid steel ones, heater and overdrive. Not as expensive originally and
therefore less now. Hope this helps.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir. NC
BN1, BN4, BT7
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:03:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1965 or 1966 Lucas parts list?
Lucas look-up service prices.
Each motorcar model years 1955 and newer: $49.95
Each motorcar model years 1954 and older: $59.95
Shipping and handling (hardcopy to US address): $4.95
International orders ship at actual cost.
E-mail service available at no additional shipping cost.
PayPal, postal money orders and personal checks accepted, in US funds
only please! Shipment is held until personal check clears bank. "
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote: <<Gidday all, Does
anyone on the list have a copy of the Lucas 1965 or 1966 Lucas spare
parts list? If so, any chance you can email me a scan of the BJ8
distributor page (which gives the part numbers for all the bits inside
the 40966 distributor) or fax it to me? Please contact me off list if
you can help. Best regards, --Chris Dimmock, Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
File your taxes online! http://taxes.yahoo.ca
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From charlesg.smith at ps.ge.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:29:38 -0500
Subject: FW: BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Smith, Charles G (PS, Conmec)
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:29 PM
> To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
> Subject: FW: BJ8
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Smith, Charles G (PS, Conmec)
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:14 PM
> To: 'healey@autox.team.net'
> Subject: BJ8
>
> Looking for a restorable BJ8 - 65 or later I have a basket case I'm
> presently working on - In two weeks it's scheduled to go for a Jule frame
> - I'd rather find a car with a solid frame that needs total restoration
> (if any exist) and use my car for a parts car.
> If I continue to restore the BJ8 that I'm presently working on I
> need a front shroud and right front fender - any out there for sale??
>
> g GE Power Systems
> Oil & Gas
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> ___
>
> Charles G. Smith Jr.
> Manufacturing Process Specialist
> CONMEC
> 1480 Valley Center Parkway
> Bethlehem, PA 18017-2264 USA
> Phone: 610 758-7445, DC: 8* 731-7445
> Fax: 610 758-7501
> email: charlesg.smith@ps.ge.com,
> www. gepower.com
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:28:40 EST
Subject: Re: king pins
<< Yes, I am having to resort to this. Would you believe the latest set from
QH that I installed have metric threads!! Rich >>
Rich and everyone who cares,
If you really want to get picky, the threads on king pins of the early cars,
BN1s and possibly BN2s, but I'm not certain, were BSF and later changed to
UNF. I believe that the later factory replacement king pin sets were made
using UNF threads since BMC was well underway with the transition to the
Unified Thread System. I know for certain that BN1s, at least through the
end of '53, had king pins with BSF threads. However since this was a part
that was many times replaced, well before most of us owned our cars it is
hard to determine what was original.
Another thing to be careful of is to use the proper terminology if one is to
purchase new nuts. The "Castle" nuts that we all refer to are in fact, on our
British made cars, known as "Slotted" nuts.
A slotted nut has a full hex for its entire height while a castle nut has a
hex up to the height where the slots are cut and then the top is machined
round. If you order castle vs. slotted nuts, especially from an English
supplier, you will get the latter style which I described and they will not
be correct.
BTW both "Namrick Ltd" 124 Portland Road, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 5QL,
England, and "British Tools & Fasteners" 2030 Andre Drive, Los Osos, CA
93402, have the proper nuts, both slotted and castle and the two types are
illustrated in their catalogs.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:37:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Passing of a Big Healey
So sad, that 1st cousin, "Nasty Boy" HBN7L/405 passed a little gas.
and 2nd cousin HBT7L/17139 spit-up through her tri-carbs.
I lifted a Salty Dog Cocktail in remembrance
But not to fret, as Donald and Geoffrey will be at the pearly gates of
"Old Dominion Recycling". :-( :-( :-(
Kirk Kvam
59/60 HBN7L/405 (1st Cousin)
62 HBT7L/17139 (2nd Cousin)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 5:46 AM
Subject: RE: Passing of a Big Healey
> HBN7L/11282 sends her deepest sympathy, and hopes to see her cousin in the
> after life. As long as he didn't go to the evil place run by Lucas.
She's
> been bad, but when she's good, she's very good.. ;-)
>
> Steve
> 61 BN7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Pennell [mailto:pennell@whro.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 11:47 PM
> To: Healey List
> Cc: Darrell Miller
> Subject: Passing of a Big Healey
>
> Identification of the deceased: HBN7L/10319
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:50:00 EST
Subject: Wiring Harness BN4
Bill
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From "Steve Sanders" <cstevesanders at inetmail.att.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:28:55 -0600
Subject: Speedo Calibration
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:02:51 EST
Subject: Re: Leaf spring screws
Yes, "Namrick Ltd" 124 Portland Road, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 5QL, England,
[Brighton (01273) 779864] has the screws that you are looking for listed
under, 1/4" BSF Countersunk Machine Screws - Zinc Plated. They are supplied
in 1/2" length increments up to three inches.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 3/18/02 7:48:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<< Does anyone have a source for the 1/4 x 26 TPI screws for the original
leaf
spring bracket? I have tried British Tools and Dun-Rite without success.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance. >>
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:06:28 -0500
Subject: TEST ONLY.... AFTER MYSTERIOUS LOSS OF LIST MESSAGES
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu (all standard trans)
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From XK120FHCSE at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:13:57 EST
Subject: HBN7L 8039
Just wondering if the # in the subject line rings any bells with the folks on
the list. I owned the car in 1972, in Connecticut. Car was white, red
interior. Sold it to a guy who worked at Pratt & Whitney (I think); he lived
in the North Haven area (maybe Hamden), as I vaguely recall. He repainted the
car Healey blue. Where it went after that, I have no idea.
In the "small world" category, the April 2002 issue of "Vintage Racecar" had
a short column mentioning a web site called www.coldplugs.com so I visited
that. Most of the pictures are from the '50s and '60s, taken at Lime Rock and
Thompson. Lo and behold, there is a picture of a Berkeley on the Intro page
and the photo caption cites the chassis and engine numbers for the Berk.
Photo taken around 1963, turns out to be the very same Berkeley that sits in
my garage today. What's especially cool about the photo is that the humble
492cc Berkeley shares the picture with a factory team Lotus. So you never
know, this "internet" stuff can lead to some remarkable things! I highly
recommend the site, by the way. There is a 100-4 photo from the early '60s as
well, complete with serial number. So maybe that will also match up with
someone's car (sorry, I didn't write that number down but check out the site,
it's worth a visit anyway).
Dick Rowley
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:20:07 EST
Subject: What sex is your Healey?
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:32:46 EST
Subject: Re: Leaf spring screws
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 3/21/02 9:05:15, CNAArndt@aol.com writes:
<< John,
Yes, "Namrick Ltd" 124 Portland Road, Hove, East Sussex, BN3 5QL, England,
[Brighton (01273) 779864] has the screws that you are looking for listed
under, 1/4" BSF Countersunk Machine Screws - Zinc Plated. They are supplied
in 1/2" length increments up to three inches.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 3/18/02 7:48:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<< Does anyone have a source for the 1/4 x 26 TPI screws for the original
leaf
spring bracket? I have tried British Tools and Dun-Rite without success.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance. >> >>
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From Lynn and Jean Neff <lynnneff at springnet1.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:52:13 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
Subject: What sex is your Healey
Neff BT7
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:01:24 -0500
Subject: Sorrow for your loss
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:58:01 -0500
Subject: Dash
Steve
61 BN7
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:02:51 -0500
Subject: List vs. Messageboard
I'm just curious what members opinions are of one versus the other. For me
the advantages of the list versus messageboard are:
1. More volume (= more interesting)
2. Available on Blackberry wireless device (=can read almost anyway,
anytime)
3. Big Healey specific
Advantages of message board are:
1. Can choose which messages (threads) to read
2. Can search without having to go to separate archive
3. More user-friendly format
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:17:24 EST
Subject: Re: 1965 or 1966 Lucas parts list?
I've been offering this service for free, at least for British cars
1945-1960, for the past couple of years.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 3/21/02 7:05:25 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jstmorris@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hi Chris; Here is an offer of service you or others may find to be of
value. Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
Lucas Catalogue Part Number Service - http://www.minor-classics.com/
" Have you ever discovered a good deal on an elusive Lucas part at a
flea market, swap meet, boot sale, or on-line auction? But, you were
not sure it was the correct one for your motorcar? Now with our new
service for Lucas part numbers, we can help! We have an extensive
collection of Lucas catalogues covering models from the 1930's through
the 1980's, and it is growing continually. With our new Lucas look-up
service, we provide you part numbers for the Lucas components used on
your vehicle. We even include photographs and illustrations where
available! So, why spend $100's on books and catalogues which may or
may not cover your particular automobile? Why spend hours searching for
the Lucas part numbers you need to properly restore your motorcar?
Order a listing for your motorcar and "arm" yourself with the
information you need to "capture" those discoveries! Below are
samples of the type of information we can provide - direct from the
original Lucas catalogues! E-mail us your make, model, and year, and
we will be happy to send you a list of the components on your motorcar
for which we can provide Lucas part numbers. Of course, at no
obligation on your part. Try us!
Lucas look-up service prices.
Each motorcar model years 1955 and newer: $49.95
Each motorcar model years 1954 and older: $59.95
Shipping and handling (hardcopy to US address): $4.95
International orders ship at actual cost.
E-mail service available at no additional shipping cost.
PayPal, postal money orders and personal checks accepted, in US funds
only please! Shipment is held until personal check clears bank. "
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote: <<Gidday all, Does
anyone on the list have a copy of the Lucas 1965 or 1966 Lucas spare
parts list? If so, any chance you can email me a scan of the BJ8
distributor page (which gives the part numbers for all the bits inside
the 40966 distributor) or fax it to me? Please contact me off list if
you can help. Best regards, --Chris Dimmock, Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:20:19 EST
Subject: Re: 1965 or 1966 Lucas parts list?
I've been offering this service for free, at least for British cars
1945-1960, for the past couple of years.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 3/21/02 7:05:25 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jstmorris@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hi Chris; Here is an offer of service you or others may find to be of
value. Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
Lucas Catalogue Part Number Service - http://www.minor-classics.com/
" Have you ever discovered a good deal on an elusive Lucas part at a
flea market, swap meet, boot sale, or on-line auction? But, you were
not sure it was the correct one for your motorcar? Now with our new
service for Lucas part numbers, we can help! We have an extensive
collection of Lucas catalogues covering models from the 1930's through
the 1980's, and it is growing continually. With our new Lucas look-up
service, we provide you part numbers for the Lucas components used on
your vehicle. We even include photographs and illustrations where
available! So, why spend $100's on books and catalogues which may or
may not cover your particular automobile? Why spend hours searching for
the Lucas part numbers you need to properly restore your motorcar?
Order a listing for your motorcar and "arm" yourself with the
information you need to "capture" those discoveries! Below are
samples of the type of information we can provide - direct from the
original Lucas catalogues! E-mail us your make, model, and year, and
we will be happy to send you a list of the components on your motorcar
for which we can provide Lucas part numbers. Of course, at no
obligation on your part. Try us!
Lucas look-up service prices.
Each motorcar model years 1955 and newer: $49.95
Each motorcar model years 1954 and older: $59.95
Shipping and handling (hardcopy to US address): $4.95
International orders ship at actual cost.
E-mail service available at no additional shipping cost.
PayPal, postal money orders and personal checks accepted, in US funds
only please! Shipment is held until personal check clears bank. "
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote: <<Gidday all, Does
anyone on the list have a copy of the Lucas 1965 or 1966 Lucas spare
parts list? If so, any chance you can email me a scan of the BJ8
distributor page (which gives the part numbers for all the bits inside
the 40966 distributor) or fax it to me? Please contact me off list if
you can help. Best regards, --Chris Dimmock, Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:23:10 EST
Subject: Re: 1965 or 1966 Lucas parts list?
I've been offering this service for free, at least for British cars
1945-1960, for the past couple of years.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 3/21/02 7:05:25 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jstmorris@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hi Chris; Here is an offer of service you or others may find to be of
value. Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
Lucas Catalogue Part Number Service - http://www.minor-classics.com/
" Have you ever discovered a good deal on an elusive Lucas part at a
flea market, swap meet, boot sale, or on-line auction? But, you were
not sure it was the correct one for your motorcar? Now with our new
service for Lucas part numbers, we can help! We have an extensive
collection of Lucas catalogues covering models from the 1930's through
the 1980's, and it is growing continually. With our new Lucas look-up
service, we provide you part numbers for the Lucas components used on
your vehicle. We even include photographs and illustrations where
available! So, why spend $100's on books and catalogues which may or
may not cover your particular automobile? Why spend hours searching for
the Lucas part numbers you need to properly restore your motorcar?
Order a listing for your motorcar and "arm" yourself with the
information you need to "capture" those discoveries! Below are
samples of the type of information we can provide - direct from the
original Lucas catalogues! E-mail us your make, model, and year, and
we will be happy to send you a list of the components on your motorcar
for which we can provide Lucas part numbers. Of course, at no
obligation on your part. Try us!
Lucas look-up service prices.
Each motorcar model years 1955 and newer: $49.95
Each motorcar model years 1954 and older: $59.95
Shipping and handling (hardcopy to US address): $4.95
International orders ship at actual cost.
E-mail service available at no additional shipping cost.
PayPal, postal money orders and personal checks accepted, in US funds
only please! Shipment is held until personal check clears bank. "
--- Chris Dimmock <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> wrote: <<Gidday all, Does
anyone on the list have a copy of the Lucas 1965 or 1966 Lucas spare
parts list? If so, any chance you can email me a scan of the BJ8
distributor page (which gives the part numbers for all the bits inside
the 40966 distributor) or fax it to me? Please contact me off list if
you can help. Best regards, --Chris Dimmock, Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com >>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
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From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:37:14 -0800
Subject: RE: steering wheel repair
Earlier this month, I asked "What to do with my 100 steering wheel" because
of prior damage/accident...
Well, many of you responded privately with helpful ideas, most of which
included grinding and epoxy. Thanks. In the future, I would encourage you to
post replies publicly, so that the hundreds of lurkers can benefit from your
knowledge and wisdom.
Fortunately, due to the generosity of Michael Oritt
<http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/>, I now have a MUCH better steering wheel
to work with. Von's Austin-Healey Restorations
<http://www.vonsaustinhealey.com/> packed and shipped it with great care,
too!
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 15:43:47 EST
Subject: Re: Leaf spring screws
> I found screws at Home Depot that were stainless and looked very similar to
> the originals. (this was a couple years back)
>
>
When looking for screws, don't just think about threads!! Yes, they're
important, but British screws often lhave smaller heads than the American
counterparts. Thus, if you buy American screws, 1/4-28, to replace the UNF
1/4" ones on 6-cyl car leaf springs, you'll find the heads are aobut 3/32"
too large in OD, and if you face thelm off and turn them down you won't have
any slot left. THe british UNF 1/4" screws are much closer to the original
size, thought they also might require a little head sizing.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 15:51:40 EST
Subject: Re: steering wheel repair
The other is that the rest of the original wheel lplastic will continue to
shrink and cracks can develop in new locations, not where you previously did
repairs. The best solution would be a new wheel, but no one makes a casting
of the 100 one. THis is why I ALWAYS recommend bulying one of the new 3000
wheels in lieu of repairing those, as the new ones can be dressed up
perfectly with a little wet sanding and polishing of the mold parting line
and will look like new and be far more resistant to future cracking.
If parts suppliers thought there was sufficient market for 100 wheels, I
guess they'd have them made too. For now there are few options. One is to
repair your original wheel. Another, and VERY costly, is to make a mold up
and recast your rim. I've just gone through this and if I could buy a new
wheel for $300 it would be cheaper!!
Roger
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From Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US at ThoughtWorks.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 15:10:11 -0600
Subject: Austin Healey, but not LBC
One of the opinions was that, "Austin Healey does not kick or tackle well
enough" Were they talking about the cars or the player?
Olivier, Healeyless lurker
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:04:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Passing of a Big Healey
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:49:03 -0600
Subject: Re: HBN7L 8039
> Just wondering if the # in the subject line rings any bells with the folks
on
> the list.
Close but no cigar. I've got HBN7L6185, as far as I know a west coast
(Seattle) based native - at least that's were our paths crossed.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:39:03 EST
Subject: Re: Passing of a Big Healey
<<Cause of death: terminal oxidation caused by extended exposure to salted
highways of West Virginia>>
Ashes to ashes, rust to rust :-(
Rick
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:44:46 -0600
Subject: Team Healey Hits the Road
Just an FYI, a fellow lister and I will be competing this weekend in the MG
Endurance Rally in St. Louis. We have the dubious honor of driving the first
Healey in the event. He and I will be driving his 1962 BT7.
Rounding out Team Healey is a fellow Club member and his friend championing
his squire body AH Sprite.
The rally is a TSD event open to old British cars (I think 1975 or older).
Each team is responsible for planning their own routes to 16 landmarks around
the state of Missouri taking pictures of them and their car as evidence. The
event has a time limit of 20 hours and covers a little less than 1,000 miles.
The team returning to the finish line with the least miles in the time
allotted wins.
Wish us luck and if you happen to be in Missouri this weekend and see a
non-Healey British car on the road, please do us a favor. Pull in front of
them and slow them down as best you can ;-)
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
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From Nicholas Zarkades <zdesign at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:27:59 -0500
Subject: healey 50th anniversity
The Northeast Chapter of the Austin Healey Club America is putting
on a 50th anniversary show to celebrate the marquees 50th anniversary
at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum in Brookline, Massachusetts. I was
wondering if anybody on the list could point me in the right direction to a
source for the history of the company (books, videos etc.) and also a source
for photos. We would like to find a picture of Donald and have it blow up
full size and cut it out and stand it next to a BN1.
One other thing, the museum asked if we knew of anybody that could give
a lecture on the marquee, somebody within the states.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick Zarkades
65 BJ8
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 11:49:56 +1100
Subject: Nash Healey badge
Many thanks for the wonderful help on obtaining a pic of the Nash Healey
badge. I had what I needed in just under an hour.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From Edward Glembotski <jglembot at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:56:57 -0800
Subject: 50th Anniversary
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:30:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Anti-corrosive Strip
Bill Lawrence (Albuquerque)
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> Keith -
>
> I hadn't realized the ionization energy of aluminum is
> even lower than zinc.... sorry for the bad advice.
>
> It seems to me, then, the best protection against
> corrosion here really is just a nice solid & complete
> coat of paint on the flanges - that will allow good
> drainage and minimize the contact beween the metals as
> much as possible.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Keith Pennell <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:33:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Team Healey Hits the Road
If things work out, I can get them distracted and you can
share the multi-mega-$ prize with me!
Good Luck,
Charley Braum
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:04:54 -0700
Subject: Re: What sex is your Healey?
Bill Lawrence
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> I was watching CNN yesterday and heard the important news that the US Navy
> will no longer refer to it's ships as 'She' or 'Her'. With the changing
> times, the ships will carry no gender and be referred to as 'It'.
> Are we going to be politically correct or be the rebels we always have been?
> Sorry to bomb the list, but if the US Government thinks this is important,
> who are we to stand by idly and ignore US precedent?
> Rudy Streng
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:36:06 -0800
Subject: Re: What sex is your Healey?
--------------
At 07:04 PM 3/21/2002, you wrote:
>Actually I think that announcement was made by Lloyds of London. I'm not aware
>of the US Navy paying much attention to the gender of their hardware one
>way or
>the other, their sailors on the other hand...
>
>Bill Lawrence
>
>CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I was watching CNN yesterday and heard the important news that the US Navy
> > will no longer refer to it's ships as 'She' or 'Her'. With the changing
> > times, the ships will carry no gender and be referred to as 'It'.
> > Are we going to be politically correct or be the rebels we always have
> been?
> > Sorry to bomb the list, but if the US Government thinks this is important,
> > who are we to stand by idly and ignore US precedent?
> > Rudy Streng
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 23:56:44 -0800
Subject: SoCal Weekday Rally
Come to our Rally to Summerland (just below Santa
Barbara). We will be leaving West Los Angeles starting at 9:30 AM
Thursday, May 2, 2002.
The route will take you through some great residential districts in
Brentwood and Pacific Palisades. Then it is north through the Santa
Monica mountains and then down into the Oxnard plains.
Houses, beaches, twisty roads, hippies, farmland, Ocean, Naval bases, nurseries
and lunch.
About 100 miles and three hours from start to lunch.
Price: Free!
I just need to know who is going to show up.
Bring whatever you want to drive.
For further info:
Rader@interworld.net
or phone: 310.306.6060
Ron Rader & Debi Nichols
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:35:32 -0800
Subject: Brookline
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FROM: Ed Golden <ED.P.GOLDEN at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 15:27:26 +0000
SUBJECT: If your modem.
Also, you may not be able to access the modem properties (for example, speaker
volume or com port). Try rebooting your laptop after selecting the modem type.
In this case, the best method for changing the modem properties is to click on
the Start button, select Settings, click on Control Panel, double-click on the
Modems icon and click on the Dialing Properties button.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
correctly.pif]
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:52:03 EST
Subject: Help needed publicizing "British Car Week" Saturday, May 25th
<A HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm";>Click
here: This year's "British Car Week" begins Saturday, May 25th 2002
</A>Thusfar I have had very positive responses from many British Car clubs
located in the DC/Baltimore and other areas both north and south--you can
help make this event a success by attending and/or spreading the word.
Thanks in advance,and we hope to see many of you--Michael Oritt, 1955 100
LeMans
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:25:07 -0700
Subject: shirts
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:17:47 EST
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:21:09 -0800
Subject: cutt off switch
Also: re. CD player. If you go staight back to the battery and attach =
the pos of the CD to the pos terminal and the neg to the neg side with =
an in-line fuse, the only way I can see that you will be in jeopardy of =
shorting out the player is if you get a nick in the wire and it touches =
metal. If this is in fact true why could'nt you go through the firewall =
and pick up a negative and a positive terminal off of the selonoid or =
someplace else.=20
Any advice always welcomed,
Guy G.
BJ7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Slide2.JPG]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Slide1.JPG]
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:52:43 +0000
Subject: Re: shirts
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> BIG and TALL guys...go to http://www.reppbigandtall.com and look at item
> 82638 A nice Healey shirt. Very expensive but exclusive. You'd be styling
> at Tahoe with this one..
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 11:41:03 -0700
Subject: BN-4 project car
A little late here, but you didn't seem to get a lot of replies, so
here goes. A lot of questions come to mind, like: Is it drivable? Or at
least does the engine run? How much work (and money) will really be needed
to finish it right? How much rust? If there's much, I'd keep looking. If
the body work so far is just "so-so", and you want it right, then you just
about have to start from scratch. $10k could be a bit high for a project
car unless it's fairly close to being done the way you want it.
Most of us in the US regard the overdrive as fairly important for a
"driver". Wire wheels are nice too. If you're not concerned with
originality, it's possible to add these things (at considerable expense, of
course). To add the overdrive, you really need the overdrive-type gearbox
too, or at least the output shaft from one. Probably some other parts too.
The list of things to look for is almost endless. If neither of you
are very familiar with these, it might be good to enlist the help of someone
who is. These things can be a quagmire, and it's definitely "caveat
emptor". It might be a real "find" and a good deal at the right price, but
always remember that there are others out there (somewhere --).
Bob Frisby (BT-7)
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From "Burchett, Wayne (CAM)" <Wayne.Burchett at gapac.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:08:44 -0500
Subject: purchase wire wheels
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:34:31 EST
Subject: Re: purchase wire wheels
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 15:03:27 -0800
Subject: Re: purchase wire wheels
> Wayne,
> I replaced my 48 spoke chrome wires with new 72 spoke chrome/stainless
wires
> (Dayton wire) about 8 months ago and can't believe the difference. I
bought
> mine from British Wire Wheel in Watsonville, CA. (800-732-9866), because
they
> are experts and they check each wheel for trueness before shipping. If
your
> BN4 has drum brakes on the front wheels like my car, be sure to tell BWW
> because they have Dayton wires with special laced offsets to clear the
drums.
> Regular 60 or 72 spoke wires will not fit Healeys with front drums. I
paid
> about $1000 for the four wires.
> Vrooom vrooom,
> John
> 100-Six Erika the Red
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 20:49:50 EST
Subject: Re: purchase wire wheels
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:53:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Oil on tappet cover
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Phillips
To: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 6:21 AM
Subject: Oil on tappet cover
Every time I run my car I end up with a small amount of oil accumulating on
the bottom edge of the middle tappet cover. I can't see where this is
coming
from as everything else seems clean. Any ideas? Could it be from the bolt
holding the cover on ... There's no sign of this though.
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From "Francis Kennette" <bedrock at mnsi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 01:21:00 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Manifold Thread Size
Thanks in advance,
Francis Kennette
55 BN1
74 Jag OTS
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:54:24 EST
Subject: Re: BN1 Manifold Thread Size
<< What size of stud and/or thread attaches the heat shield & fulcrum pin on
a BN1? >>
Francis,
The three bolts that hold the heat shield on are 5/16 X 5/8" or 3/4" BSF
(British Standard Fine). The Fulcrum pin is 3/8 BSF. There is also a tab
washer that holds both the lower left bolt and the fulcrum pin in place.
This tab washer is not available so you'll need to reuse the original or make
a new one. The other two bolts use British style "Square section" lock
washers.
<< What size are the studs and or threads on manifold where it attaches to
exhaust pipe? >>
The three studs, on both ends, are also 5/16 BSF and the nuts should be
brass, however I've also seen British style "Stiff" nuts used on later BN2s.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From "Guy G" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 00:10:32 -0500
Subject: Speedo help
getting frustrated,
Guy G
BJ7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 18:56:39 +0000
Subject: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
I know to isolate the battery first (and I don't smoke!). I presume I
remove the two nuts that are furthest from me (as I approach from the RH
wheel arch). But first I disconnect the fuel lines. Is it better to
remove the banjos from the body, or the pipes from the banjos (and leave
the banjos on the pump)? If I disconnect the banjos from the body, will
I need new fibre washers when I re-assemble (and could this be a good
reason to disconnect at the compression joints?)
Also, does the fuel tank dump its contents through the inlet pipe unless
it is sealed? If so, what's the best way to 'instantly' seal the pipe
while disconnected? Is it wise to seal the other pipe as well, to stop
back-flow from the carbs?
All pretty basic stuff for anyone who has done it! I just don't want to
end up wading in petrol as soon as I start the job.
Thanks again for a great list, and in hopeful anticipation of at least
one well-informed answer!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 14:14:02 -0500
Subject: RE: Speedo help
It sounds to me that your speedometer has encountered a "fatal error".
Before you start tearing it out, one little trick is to loosen off the
cable at the speedo a turn or two then try the same test again.
There really isn't a lot that you can do to repair a speedo yourself
unless you have some experience in instrument repair.
I note from our web site that we have them listed at $US132.00 exch.
Maybe we can help.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Guy G
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 1997 12:11 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Speedo help
Hi All,
Just put in my new angle drive. Put the transi cover on and ran the car
with
the cable disconnected to make sure it was spinning. So far so good. I
attached the cable to the speedometer and went forward slowly. The
speedometer
immediatly pegged so I stopped so I would'nt break the shaft on the
angle
drive. When I went in reverse the speedo needle went back to 0. When I
went
forward ever so slowly it pegged again. It even moved a little when I
was in
idle (went up to 10mpg). It is almost as though there is no resistance
in the
speeedo itself. It is like the gears are not geared properly. What can I
check
to see what the problem is and if there is a problem can I fix it or is
there
a reputable place I can send the unit out (if in fact the problem is
with the
speedo) where I can get it fixed resonably.
getting frustrated,
Guy G
BJ7
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:56:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
The nuts to remove are the ones on the studs that are in the base of the
pump body itself. Don't loose the studs as they are B.S.F. thread.
Easiest to disconnect the lines from the banjos as they will be easier
to seal when you reinstall the pump.
If the level of the fuel in the tank is higher than the union that you
are undoing fuel will siphon out of the tank. There are several
solutions.
1. Make sure the tank level is low.
2. Jack the front or side of the car up high enough to make the relative
levels correct.
3. Have piece of neoprene hose nearby that is a snug fit over the nipple
on the end of the line. As soon as you have the line off use this to
blow some air back through the line to break the siphon.
The amount of back flow that you will get from the carbs is fairly small
just collect it in a can or wipe it up off the floor after it missed the
can.
Do take all precautions to remove all sources of ignition from the work
area, INCLUDING incandescent work lights.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 1:57 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
I am removing my fuel pump from my BJ8 in order to fit the Burlen
electronic conversion. Thus it will be out of the car for a day or two
(not just a few minutes as in the case of a swap).
I know to isolate the battery first (and I don't smoke!). I presume I
remove the two nuts that are furthest from me (as I approach from the RH
wheel arch). But first I disconnect the fuel lines. Is it better to
remove the banjos from the body, or the pipes from the banjos (and leave
the banjos on the pump)? If I disconnect the banjos from the body, will
I need new fibre washers when I re-assemble (and could this be a good
reason to disconnect at the compression joints?)
Also, does the fuel tank dump its contents through the inlet pipe unless
it is sealed? If so, what's the best way to 'instantly' seal the pipe
while disconnected? Is it wise to seal the other pipe as well, to stop
back-flow from the carbs?
All pretty basic stuff for anyone who has done it! I just don't want to
end up wading in petrol as soon as I start the job.
Thanks again for a great list, and in hopeful anticipation of at least
one well-informed answer!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 13:50:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
> Is it better to
> remove the banjos from the body, or the pipes from the banjos (and leave
> the banjos on the pump)?
Hmmm ... my fuel lines are one piece (all metal) to the banjos. Is this
unusual?
Let us know how the electronic conversion works for you. Mine quit
working after a few hundred miles, and I've heard anecdotally that
the solid state conversion is unreliable.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I am removing my fuel pump from my BJ8 in order to fit the Burlen
> electronic conversion. Thus it will be out of the car for a day or two
> (not just a few minutes as in the case of a swap).
>
> I know to isolate the battery first (and I don't smoke!). I presume I
> remove the two nuts that are furthest from me (as I approach from the RH
> wheel arch). But first I disconnect the fuel lines. Is it better to
> remove the banjos from the body, or the pipes from the banjos (and leave
> the banjos on the pump)? If I disconnect the banjos from the body, will
> I need new fibre washers when I re-assemble (and could this be a good
> reason to disconnect at the compression joints?)
>
> Also, does the fuel tank dump its contents through the inlet pipe unless
> it is sealed? If so, what's the best way to 'instantly' seal the pipe
> while disconnected? Is it wise to seal the other pipe as well, to stop
> back-flow from the carbs?
>
> All pretty basic stuff for anyone who has done it! I just don't want to
> end up wading in petrol as soon as I start the job.
>
> Thanks again for a great list, and in hopeful anticipation of at least
> one well-informed answer!
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From kenandi11 at comcast.net
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:52:19 -0800
Subject: 3000 Doors
Thanks
Stephen
62 BT-7 Panama City, FL
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From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 22:23:08 -0000
Subject: Re: 3000 Doors
The plates are held in place at the back of the A posts by a metal frame box
section. If you take your front wings off you should just be able to get to
back of the A posts and pry the box section open which will let you remove
the plates.
If you know anyone who has recently replaced the A posts, have a look and
you will see what I mean.
Hope this helps
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: <kenandi11@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 11:52 PM
Subject: 3000 Doors
> Good morning group, I recently took my doors of to paint my car but had to
drill the screws out of the brackets. Now I need to replace the plate which
the screws screw back into. Do I need to take my side panels of to
accomplish this?
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
>
> 62 BT-7 Panama City, FL
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:52:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 4:51 PM
To: Alan F Cross; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
Alan Cross wrote:
> Is it better to
> remove the banjos from the body, or the pipes from the banjos (and
leave
> the banjos on the pump)?
Hmmm ... my fuel lines are one piece (all metal) to the banjos. Is this
unusual?
Let us know how the electronic conversion works for you. Mine quit
working after a few hundred miles, and I've heard anecdotally that
the solid state conversion is unreliable.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> I am removing my fuel pump from my BJ8 in order to fit the Burlen
> electronic conversion. Thus it will be out of the car for a day or two
> (not just a few minutes as in the case of a swap).
>
> I know to isolate the battery first (and I don't smoke!). I presume I
> remove the two nuts that are furthest from me (as I approach from the
RH
> wheel arch). But first I disconnect the fuel lines. Is it better to
> remove the banjos from the body, or the pipes from the banjos (and
leave
> the banjos on the pump)? If I disconnect the banjos from the body,
will
> I need new fibre washers when I re-assemble (and could this be a good
> reason to disconnect at the compression joints?)
>
> Also, does the fuel tank dump its contents through the inlet pipe
unless
> it is sealed? If so, what's the best way to 'instantly' seal the pipe
> while disconnected? Is it wise to seal the other pipe as well, to stop
> back-flow from the carbs?
>
> All pretty basic stuff for anyone who has done it! I just don't want
to
> end up wading in petrol as soon as I start the job.
>
> Thanks again for a great list, and in hopeful anticipation of at least
> one well-informed answer!
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 22:57:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
Perhaps I was not making myself clear. I have solid pipes attached to
the banjo by what looks like compression joints. The question is whether
to break the pipe from the banjo, or the banjo from the pump.
There are two flavours of electronic conversion. The simpler just
reduces the current through the contacts, and amplifies this current
through a transistor. I am suspicious of this, because I think some
contact materials need some sparking to keep them clean - too little and
you may be back to intermittent problems. The other type (as in Burlen)
totally removes the contacts, and uses the movement of the spindle (with
new magnet attached) to switch a Hall-effect device, which drives a
power transistor. so there are now no contacts in the system at all.
Hopefully very reliable!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:43:31 -0700
Subject: BJ8 fascia
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:07:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
WRT:
> I have solid pipes attached to
> the banjo by what looks like compression joints.
These must be "after-market." Other BJ8 owners are reporting
solid pipes to the banjos. If you break the pump/banjo union it
is best to replace the fiber washers, though I've reused them once
or twice with no problems. More than that and they won't seal.
WRT:
> There are two flavours of electronic conversion. The simpler just
> reduces the current through the contacts, and amplifies this current
> through a transistor. I am suspicious of this, because I think some
> contact materials need some sparking to keep them clean - too little and
> you may be back to intermittent problems. The other type (as in Burlen)
> totally removes the contacts, and uses the movement of the spindle (with
> new magnet attached) to switch a Hall-effect device, which drives a
> power transistor. so there are now no contacts in the system at all.
> Hopefully very reliable!
I've tried them both. The transistor/points mod worked well for nearly
10,000 miles. The Hall Effect rig quit after a couple of hundred.
I'm back to points and a diode.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 23:24:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
...and I'm assuming that the pipes attach to the banjos like micro-bore
central heating pipes.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 19:15:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Speedo help
--- Guy G <guymark.studios@snet.net> wrote: << Hi All, Just put in my
new angle drive. Put the transi cover on and ran the car with the cable
disconnected to make sure it was spinning. So far so good. I attached
the cable to the speedometer and went forward slowly. The speedometer
immediately pegged so I stopped so I wouldn't break the shaft on the
angle drive. When I went in reverse the speedo needle went back to 0.
When I went forward ever so slowly it pegged again. It even moved a
little when I was in idle (went up to 10mpg). It is almost as though
there is no resistance in the speedo itself. It is like the gears are
not geared properly. What can I check to see what the problem is and if
there is a problem can I fix it or is there a reputable place I can
send the unit out (if in fact the problem is with the speedo) where I
can get it fixed reasonably. getting frustrated, --Guy G BJ7 >>
______________________________________________________________________
File your taxes online! http://taxes.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of
Repairing Speedometers.pdf]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of Speedometer calibration numbers.doc]
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 16:41:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
Yep, those look like compression fittings. I don't believe my BJ8
has those, just a solid pipe to the banjo with no compression fittings.
>From the looks of the screw heads I'd say your pump has never
been worked-on before.
BTW, if you're replacing the pump you'll need to remove the banjos
anyway. It might be easier to remove them and leave the compression
fittings alone. If you're just adding the solid state mod you shouldn't
have to remove the banjos.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> In message <007501c1d2bf$93b9d320$9be87f42@pacbell.net>, Bob Spidell
> <bspidell@pacbell.net> writes
> >Alan,
> >
> >WRT:
> >
> >> I have solid pipes attached to
> >> the banjo by what looks like compression joints.
> >
> >These must be "after-market." Other BJ8 owners are reporting
> >solid pipes to the banjos. If you break the pump/banjo union it
> >is best to replace the fiber washers, though I've reused them once
> >or twice with no problems. More than that and they won't seal.
> >
> >
> I have 'solid' pipes to the banjos, but the joint between the two looks
> like it can be dismantled. Are you saying that the pipe is brazed to the
> banjo, or in some way permanently attached? My pump looks like this:
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
> ...and I'm assuming that the pipes attach to the banjos like micro-bore
> central heating pipes.
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:08:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
Ed Kaler kindly corrected me offline ... I DO have the compression
fittings. Guess since whenever I pulled the pump I was doing a swap
I got in the habit of unscrewing the banjos and--working from memory--
I didn't realize I had the compression fittings. I sit corrected.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> >Alan,
> >
> >WRT:
> >
> >> I have solid pipes attached to
> >> the banjo by what looks like compression joints.
> >
> >These must be "after-market." Other BJ8 owners are reporting
> >solid pipes to the banjos. If you break the pump/banjo union it
> >is best to replace the fiber washers, though I've reused them once
> >or twice with no problems. More than that and they won't seal.
> >
> >
> I have 'solid' pipes to the banjos, but the joint between the two looks
> like it can be dismantled. Are you saying that the pipe is brazed to the
> banjo, or in some way permanently attached? My pump looks like this:
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
> ...and I'm assuming that the pipes attach to the banjos like micro-bore
> central heating pipes.
>
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 18:19:51 -0800
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
Alan:
I've been following your fuel pump saga.
Your installation looks absolutely original to me - both my Healeys are the
same.
For what it's worth: I find that I can line things up a lot more easily with
both the compression nuts and the banjo bolts loose. I tighten the banjos
finger tight, so they can be re-oriented easily as you're fighting to start
the compression nuts. Then run the compression nuts finger tight, tighten
the banjos, then the compression nuts and you're done and off to the pub!
It's always better to use new fibre washers, but you'll have to go back in a
couple of weeks and 'touch them up' - they tend to compress and need
re-tightening, possibly more than once. Your nose will tell you!
I assume that the Burlen pump is the 'Lucas' pump. I have heard that they
had a few problems with the first electronic ones, but that they did get it
sorted out. I use an aftermarket pump in both cars, a Moprod pump from the
UK. It is electronic, plastic bodied (either POS or NEG ground), also a
diaphragm pump, and has the same pressure and flow characteristics as the
original pump. They bolt right in with no modifications to the cars lines /
fittings,etc. They also cost a lot less (at least over here!)
I have had excellent success with them, although not everyone who has used
them has been happy with them. My guess is that's due to installation,
which can be a bit tricky in a plastic pump - there are a couple of tricks.
If you decide to consider one, I'd be willing to share a few tips with you -
let me know.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Removing fuel pump - planning and precautions?
In message <007501c1d2bf$93b9d320$9be87f42@pacbell.net>, Bob Spidell
<bspidell@pacbell.net> writes
>Alan,
>
>WRT:
>
>> I have solid pipes attached to
>> the banjo by what looks like compression joints.
>
>These must be "after-market." Other BJ8 owners are reporting
>solid pipes to the banjos. If you break the pump/banjo union it
>is best to replace the fiber washers, though I've reused them once
>or twice with no problems. More than that and they won't seal.
>
>
I have 'solid' pipes to the banjos, but the joint between the two looks
like it can be dismantled. Are you saying that the pipe is brazed to the
banjo, or in some way permanently attached? My pump looks like this:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
...and I'm assuming that the pipes attach to the banjos like micro-bore
central heating pipes.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 18:27:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Girling White Brake Grease
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 19:21:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Girling White Brake Grease
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: "Healeys List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: Girling White Brake Grease
> I am planning to reoplace the rear brake shoes on my BJ8 and in
preparation for the job, I have
> read the rear brake section of the BMC AH3000 factory manual. The manual
calls for lubrication
> with Girling White Brake grease for the adjusters, and at the pivot points
of the shoes. What is
> Girling White Brake grease? Is it OK to use a dab of regular grease as
long as I use it
> sparingly? - Jack
> Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
> http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 19:35:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: window regulators
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 22:35:26 EST
Subject: Re: Girling White Brake Grease
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 00:58:22 -0500
Subject: Re: window regulators
If I were you I would take the car back to the uph shop and tell them about
the OK operation of the windows before their work and ask them to remove the
uph panels from the doors. Taike them home with you (the panels) and
research the problem with the regulators. Typically it is 40 year old
grease which is dried and not lubricating. Clean all working surfaces well
with a solvent and relubricate. Also see to it that the nylon guides are
there and not broken. Check the tracks they run in for any binding of the
guides.
Once you have the regs working well with no door panels, then return to the
uph shop with the panels and have them reinstalled.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
> I am looking for some help re: window regulators. I just had an interior
installed a local shop, prior to bringing the car in the windows did roll up
and down. However they required some effort to do that After getting the
car back the drivers window is stuck in the up position and the passenger is
very hard to operate. The car is BJ8. Any suggestions on how to get the
windows going again? Also if the regulators are broken where is the best
place to purchase replacements. Thanks in advance. John
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 00:38:08 -0800
Subject: Rear hub replacement
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:50:44 +0100
Subject: Re: window regulators
Magnus Karlsson
Sweden
>
> I am looking for some help re: window regulators. I just had an interior
> installed a local shop, prior to bringing the car in the windows did roll up
> and down. However they required some effort to do that After getting the car
> back the drivers window is stuck in the up position and the passenger is very
> hard to operate. The car is BJ8. Any suggestions on how to get the windows
> going again? Also if the regulators are broken where is the best place to
> purchase replacements. Thanks in advance. John
> Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 04:42:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear hub replacement
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert D. Hughes
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 12:38 AM
Subject: Rear hub replacement
Hi Listers,
I'm replacing the rear hub extensions, link assemblies, and shocks on
my BJ8
and have new securing nuts for the hub extensions. Should these be torqued
to
the value listed in the manual for steel wheels, or is that too high for
these split
nuts? Should loctite be used with new nuts and the shock mounting nuts?
I would appreciate reading about anybody's experience replacing these rear
suspension components.
Thank you.
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
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From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 06:32:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Now the Handbrake (Tips & Tricks needed!)
The hand brake cable is in good working order although it appears to be very
old. I've taken up
as much slack as possible at the clevis pin behind the right rear tire. I now
assume the old
cable must be stretched somewhat after many years of use. The Haynes manual
says "...take up the
free play by shortening up the cable at the point where the inner cable is
connected to the hand
brake lever". Getting to the inner workings of the hand brake lever appears to
be a job and a
half! (I can't seem to see anything from the underside of the car.)
Has anybody tried this, and will it work? As an alternative, can I just remove
a half inch of the
threaded rod from the rear end of the cable to allow for adjustment?
Thanks in advance - Jack
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:46:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Now the Handbrake (Tips & Tricks needed!)
We have found that the most common problem with handbrake (hereinafter
called brake) cable adjustment is loss of effective movement in the
brake compensator. The compensator is that weird cross shaped thing that
pivots on a threaded shaft on the back axle casing.
If the brake is ineffective first check that the compensator is free to
pivot both on its threaded shaft and on its threaded mount shaft.
If cable is moving the compensator in such a way that the arm to which
the brake cable is attached is parallel to the rear axle, when the brake
is close to fully on, the cable is correctly adjusted.
Often you will find that the cable has been shortened so much that the
arm starts its travel parallel to the axle and ends up almost in line
with the cable itself. If this is the case there is too much movement at
the wheel cylinder levers and this must be eliminated before going any
further.
Hope this helps.
Mike Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Schaible
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 9:32 AM
To: Healeys List
Subject: Now the Handbrake (Tips & Tricks needed!)
My handbrake travels too far in order before it is set (8 clicks). I've
inspected my rear brake
shoes (new), and also adjusted the shoes via the adjuster on the rear of
the backplate to no
avail.
The hand brake cable is in good working order although it appears to be
very old. I've taken up
as much slack as possible at the clevis pin behind the right rear tire.
I now assume the old
cable must be stretched somewhat after many years of use. The Haynes
manual says "...take up the
free play by shortening up the cable at the point where the inner cable
is connected to the hand
brake lever". Getting to the inner workings of the hand brake lever
appears to be a job and a
half! (I can't seem to see anything from the underside of the car.)
Has anybody tried this, and will it work? As an alternative, can I just
remove a half inch of the
threaded rod from the rear end of the cable to allow for adjustment?
Thanks in advance - Jack
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:41:27 -0500
Subject: Owners Manual
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:52:52 EST
Subject: Re: Now the Handbrake (Tips & Tricks needed!)
I would not recommend shortening the threaded cable at the rear end.
It is a difficult job as you say. I just replaced the emergency brake cable
in my BJ 7. I was able to reach some of the workings at the end of the
lever by taking off the trans tunnel cover , but still couldn't reach the
forward bracket holding the cable. I couldn't reach anything from
underneath. So, I consulted my son who is a "real" mechanic. He got it up on
a lift (a great move for working under a Healey), studied the problem, and
decided to detach the drive shaft at the rear (easier than I thought it
would be). He was able to push up the drive shaft enough to gain easy access
to the "works" at the bottom of the brake handle and the bracket. He had the
new cable installed & drive shaft reconnected in about 10 minutes. I had
already spent over an hour taking the trans tunnel off and removing
carpeting. Doing it his way avoids disturbing the trans tunnel cover and
upholstery. One of those "why didn't I think of that" situations.
Larry Wysocki
BJ 7
BN 6
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:54:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Speedometer Repairs
When I responded to Guy about 'Speedo Help', I had a memory lapse about
attachments being stripped from postings to the list. As a result,
I've received a number of requests for the articles. What I should
have done was simply reference the original web sites. These are
provided below:
The first article is entitled "Repairing Jaeger & Smiths Speedometers"
by Anthony Rhodes and is very detailed with pictures. It can be found
at: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/arhodes
The second article contains a number of pages of calibration numbers
and can be found at: http://www.greengauges.com/help/faq20.asp
Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
File your taxes online! http://taxes.yahoo.ca
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:40:14 EST
Subject: We have HEARTBEAT...
Richard Gordon
BJ8 Blealey
BT7 Mr. Mauvin Bloom
BN1 Kermit, alive and well....
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 14:00:36 -0500
Subject: Re: We have HEARTBEAT...
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 1:40 PM
Subject: We have HEARTBEAT...
> With a cloud of smoke and roaring rumble at 10:30 AM Mountain standard
time
> Life has returned to BN1L 224035 for the first time since 1963. What a
> lovely sound! Thanks to all who have helped get this far, especially
Roger
> Moment for all his time, efforts, encouragement, knowledge and willingness
to
> share!
>
> Richard Gordon
> BJ8 Blealey
> BT7 Mr. Mauvin Bloom
> BN1 Kermit, alive and well....
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 13:50:14 -0600
Subject: Pictures
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 17:22:10 EST
Subject: replacement radio
Bill Eggert
Annapolis
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 19:57:06 -0500
Subject: wood seat base
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From "Dan Tiedge" <dtiedge at aholdusa.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 20:07:46 -0500
Subject: Fuel Overflow
I guess it makes sense that it has to go somewhere if the fuel pump keeps
sending it, but is it supposed to just flow out? Looks like there's an
overflow tube dropping down from the carbs but it appears to just end an
inch or two above the exhaust, which doesn't seem to make a whole lot of
sense.
What is supposed to happen in this situation?
Meanwhile, after I jacked up the car to get a better look at what was
happening (where the fuel was coming from) from below, the fuel pump, of
course, stopped after a second or two as normal, so I never could see where
the fuel came from.
Thanks in advance for any and all tips.
Regards.
Daniel C. Tiedge
Ahold USA, Inc.
14101 Newbrook Drive
Chantilly, VA 20151
(703) 961-6083 - (Office)
(571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
'56 BN2
'62 TR4
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 20:09:49 EST
Subject: Re: wood seat base
1) they use flat head Phillips screws to attach partitions -- the heads are
visible from the underside
2) they don't have the round head nails that are also visible on the
undrside of originals
It is easy to cover the screw heads wilth putty and flind proper nails to
install if you want to be exactly correct, originality-wise.
Cost of the seat frames is very reasonable and doesn't make it worthwhile to
spaend the time to find the materials, make drawings/patterns, cut and
assemble.
Roger
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 22:16:18 -0500
Subject: Re:Fuel leaking
Happy Healeying,
Doug
PS. Good thing I don' smoke!!
________________________________________________________________
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 22:33:22 EST
Subject: Carburetter Adjustments
Due to excessive smoking, I was advised to check if engine is running rich.
I found one carburetter was way out of adjustment. After adjusting both as
best a first-timer could do, it seems to run pretty well.
However,
When accelerating, and then lifting accelerator foot to upshift, the RPMs
don't drop rapidly, as I know it should. What in the adjustment of a carb
would cause it to hold RPMs ??
(Note: The RPMs do fall, but slowly)
Thanks in Advance,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 22:35:58 -0500
Subject: 100-4 Hard-Top
On page 53 of John Wheatley's 'Austin Healey 100 - Super Profile' there is
a photo, #46, of an 'original' hard-top.
If anyone has one of these, or has more detailed photos, I need
'close-ups' on what the trim, fixtures, window mounting and seals look like.
Please contact me off-list to make arrangements to get photos to me.
Thanks in advance,
Charley Braum
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 00:31:13 -0500
Subject: Re: We have HEARTBEAT...
Keith Pennell
> With a cloud of smoke and roaring rumble at 10:30 AM Mountain standard
time
> Life has returned to BN1L 224035 for the first time since 1963. What a
> lovely sound! Thanks to all who have helped get this far, especially
Roger
> Moment for all his time, efforts, encouragement, knowledge and willingness
to
> share!
>
> Richard Gordon
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 01:03:57 -0500
Subject: Aluminum rivets
Any thoughts appreciated.
Keith Pennell
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:17:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel leaking
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
>
> I am caring for a friend's BN4 while he is in school. The problem is that
> gas is leaking from the tank around the sending unit seal when the tank
> is full. We have removed the unit, cleaned the mounting surface,
> installed a new gasket and screws and it still leaks. I had to put the
> car outside as the fumes were rather obnoxious in the house. Any
> thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
>
> PS. Good thing I don' smoke!!
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From David Shickle <dshickle at real.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:34:38 +0000
Subject: Suspension upgrade
Your adivce and conciderations about suspension upgrades.
I have a BJ8 running in the UK. I am concidering changing the suspension
from the original to Bilstein telescopic dampers.
Has anyone done this for general running ?
Any views would be greatly received.
David
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:05:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Re:Fuel leaking
Sometimes the sending units leak around the screw threads. Try some RTV on
the threads or fibre sealing washers on the screws.
----- Original Message -----
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 10:16 PM
Subject: Re:Fuel leaking
> I am caring for a friend's BN4 while he is in school. The problem is that
> gas is leaking from the tank around the sending unit seal when the tank
> is full. We have removed the unit, cleaned the mounting surface,
> installed a new gasket and screws and it still leaks. I had to put the
> car outside as the fumes were rather obnoxious in the house. Any
> thoughts? Thanks.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
>
> PS. Good thing I don' smoke!!
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:47:00 -0500
Subject: RE: BJ8 fascia
Steve
61BN7
>Still looking at options for coating my wood fascia. I wonder if
automotive
>paint clear coat would work. Should be durable and weather resistant. Any
>experience or observations would be appreciated.
>Sid 65BJ8
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:03:51 -0500
Subject: RE: We have HEARTBEAT...
Congratulations Richard, I still remember the first day that mine started..
I drove her around the block a few times sitting on an old milk basket, with
no fenders, doors or shrouds.. the neighbors thought I was nuts, but I'll
never forget doing that.. what a rush...
Steve
61BN7
>Yeah Richard and yeah 224035!!!
>Keith Pennell
> With a cloud of smoke and roaring rumble at 10:30 AM Mountain standard
time
> Life has returned to BN1L 224035 for the first time since 1963. What a
> lovely sound! Thanks to all who have helped get this far, especially
Roger
> Moment for all his time, efforts, encouragement, knowledge and willingness
to
> share!
>
> Richard Gordon
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:09:37 EST
Subject: Re: Carburetter Adjustments
<< However,
When accelerating, and then lifting accelerator foot to upshift, the RPMs
don't drop rapidly, as I know it should. What in the adjustment of a carb
would cause it to hold RPMs ??
(Note: The RPMs do fall, but slowly)
>>
Check for weak return springs on your caruretters.
Dick North
BJ8
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:38:25 -0500
Subject: Re:Fuel Leak
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:06:56 -0700
Subject: wire wheels
There seem to be two main wire wheel specialists in the US, British
Wire Wheel in the West, and Hendrix in the East. My experience is with BWW,
and it's all positive.
There are, I think, just two manufacturers, Dunlop and Dayton. The
Dunlops are made in India, and are all chrome. Moss sells them The Daytons
are made in the US. They have chrome hubs and rims, and stainless-steel
spokes (better, I think). Better workmanship also, in my opinion. BWW
sells Daytons. Don't know what Hendrix sells.
I'm sure you've heard this before, but be sure your external splines
(on the car) are in good shape. Otherwise, they'll damage the internal
splines on your new wheels. Works the other way too, of course.
A good trick is to use some blue "gasket-grade" RTV to seal the
spoke heads in the hubs on new wheels. This keeps spline grease from
creeping out, and makes for much cleaner wheels. Some people also do this
to the spoke heads in the rims, making it possible to go tubeless.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7
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From "Robert J. Denton/Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:15:13 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheels
rfrisby wrote:
> Hi Wayne,
>
> There seem to be two main wire wheel specialists in the US, British
> Wire Wheel in the West, and Hendrix in the East. My experience is with BWW,
> and it's all positive.
>
> There are, I think, just two manufacturers, Dunlop and Dayton. The
> Dunlops are made in India, and are all chrome. Moss sells them The Daytons
> are made in the US. They have chrome hubs and rims, and stainless-steel
> spokes (better, I think). Better workmanship also, in my opinion. BWW
> sells Daytons. Don't know what Hendrix sells.
>
> I'm sure you've heard this before, but be sure your external splines
> (on the car) are in good shape. Otherwise, they'll damage the internal
> splines on your new wheels. Works the other way too, of course.
>
> A good trick is to use some blue "gasket-grade" RTV to seal the
> spoke heads in the hubs on new wheels. This keeps spline grease from
> creeping out, and makes for much cleaner wheels. Some people also do this
> to the spoke heads in the rims, making it possible to go tubeless.
>
> Bob Frisby
> '62 BT7
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:58:54 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
>
> There are, I think, just two manufacturers, Dunlop and Dayton. The
> Dunlops are made in India, and are all chrome. Moss sells them The
> Daytons
> are made in the US.
The Dunlops made in India are mostly painted. They are e3xcellent. The last
one I bought, about a month ago, was the truest wheel I've ever gotten from
Dunlop, or seen from any source, and absolutely perfect!
Dayton wheels are good, functionally, but do look different because of the
deeper feature at the middle of the rim. The spoke angles and details are
also slightly different from Dunlop.
Dayton does make stainless steel spoked wheels with chromed hubs and rims. I
don't know if Dunlop makes "chrome" wheels and, if so, whether their spokes
are chromed (which you don't want) or polished stainless ( which you do
want).
Roger
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From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:06:47 EST
Subject: Dash pad edge.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:40:30 EST
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
<< Listers,
Your adivce and conciderations about suspension upgrades.
I have a BJ8 running in the UK. I am concidering changing the suspension
from the original to Bilstein telescopic dampers.
Has anyone done this for general running ?
Any views would be greatly received.
David >>
David,
I've done it and love it. The ridw is very predictable and solid. I'd
recommend it to anyone. I also added a stiffer antiroll bar to flatten turns
a bit.
You can see the car at: members.aol.com/wilko
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:56:40 -0800
Subject: Dash removal... plus
The last serious part of my BJ8 restoration is to remove the old dash and
replace it with the prettiest custom-built burled walnut dash you have ever
seen. Due to my bum-back, my installer will do the install for me. But he
warns that it is a nasty job (ie: $$). I have a Derrington style wheel that
was also difficult to install. In fact, I'm not at all sure it will EVER
come off. So, the question is can a BJ8 dash removal/replacement project be
accomplished WITHOUT removing the steering wheel? If it can, I'm open to
tips or suggestions.
Also, since my Healey isn't (and never will be) a concourse level
restoration, I'm seriously thinking about having a 2nd dash custom built out
of some exotic wood that I have stashed away for my guitar building business
(very curly koa). If I do this, I will have a brand new and never installed
custom book matched burled walnut dash available to sell. This dash is
simply stunning, finished to the highest possible standard by Randy Keller
in San Jose. He supplies custom wood interiors and dashboards for big buck
Pebble Beach restos and is one of the best in the business. His wait is 3-6
months. I paid $450 for it.
Is there any interest on the list to purchase this concourse-quality dash
from me should I decide to have another one crafted? The price, while not
heavily discounted, would be negotiable. Pics are available by email.
Thanks Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:25:17 -0500
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Paint is original, Chrome is elegant. Go with what YOU like....follow your
heart.
Jim ..Two Healeys with painted wheels, one with chrome....love 'em all.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:43:35 EST
Subject: Order of Assembly -- was handbrake installation.
<< He was able to push up the drive shaft enough to gain easy access
to the "works" at the bottom of the brake handle and the bracket. He had the
new cable installed & drive shaft reconnected in about 10 minutes. I had
already spent over an hour taking the trans tunnel off and removing
carpeting. Doing it his way avoids disturbing the trans tunnel cover and
upholstery. One of those "why didn't I think of that" situations. >>
Of course, this would have been the way the car was assembled in the first
place, since Jensen installed everything before shipping the bodies to
Longbridge or Abingdon to have the engine, transmission, and drivetrain
installed.
Another tip in the order of assembly category -- I was watching a 1962 BMC
promo film on SpeedTV last week and one of the segments showed assembly of
the rally Healeys. The segment showed them installing the exhaust manifold,
complete with the downpipes already attached to it. What a great idea! No
fumbling under the car trying to bolt the downpipe to the exhaust manifold.
This could be the answer when you've got to redo that part of the car. My bet
is it would be faster to remove the intake manifolds and carbs, then unfasten
the muffler and unbolt the exhaust manifold, rather than trying to reach up
beside the engine from under the car to get all six downpipe bolts in place.
And if, heaven forbid, the dpo used steel bolts instead of brass and they've
corroded together, that may be the only way you can get the downpipes off.
Cheers
gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:54:11 EST
Subject: Re: Carburetter Adjustments
<< Check for weak return springs on your caruretters.
Dick North >>
Dick -- Thanks for the note -- had the same problem on my MGA race car this
weekend. I had replaced a missing throttle spring with a weaker substitute to
get back on track last month, and then noticed that revs would stay up when
I'd upshift. I'll try replacing the throttle spring before I do anything else.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:57:45 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
<<
The Dunlops made in India are mostly painted. They are e3xcellent. The last
one I bought, about a month ago, was the truest wheel I've ever gotten from
Dunlop, or seen from any source, and absolutely perfect!
Dayton wheels are good, functionally, but do look different because of the
deeper feature at the middle of the rim. The spoke angles and details are
also slightly different from Dunlop.
>>
When I replaced one of my wheels on my BN7 last year, I learned from British
Wire Wheel that they no longer deal with the Dunlop supplier and carry only
Dayton wheels. As Roger notes, the Dayton hub has a different profile --
which they, of course, argue is stronger and better than the original -- than
the Dunlop and the originals, and I wasn't too pleased with the darker gray
color of paint. I think Hendrix still carries the painted wheels from Dunlop.
(requisite note -- both Hendrix and BWW are advertisers in my magazine.)
Cheers
Gary
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "Michael Shepard" <mhs-taze-hewitt@erols.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:12:57 -0500
Subject: Fw: Order of Assembly -- was handbrake installation.
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:12:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
> In a message dated 3/25/02 5:37:19, dshickle@real.com writes:
>
> << Listers,
> Wilko & Listers,
I'm in the process of having the Bilstein shocks installed. Did you decide
to add the stiffer antiroll bar after the shock installtion? Is there others
who have comments on the stiffer bar? I noticed in the parts catalog for
front and back? Does this help on sharp turns when the car leans and looks
like it going to flip?
Thanks Dave
blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
> Your adivce and conciderations about suspension upgrades.
>
> I have a BJ8 running in the UK. I am concidering changing the suspension
> from the original to Bilstein telescopic dampers.
> Has anyone done this for general running ?
>
> Any views would be greatly received.
>
> David >>
>
> David,
> I've done it and love it. The ridw is very predictable and solid. I'd
> recommend it to anyone. I also added a stiffer antiroll bar to flatten
turns
> a bit.
> You can see the car at: members.aol.com/wilko
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:38:51 -0500
Subject: RE: Order of Assembly -- was handbrake installation.
Steve
61 BN7
> When I had to replace my exhaust system, that's the way I did it after
> several hours of #$%^@^& under the car. It truly is much easier and a lot
> faster to remove the carbs and intake manifold unstall the exhaust
> manifold-downpipe as one unit. there is just not enough room to snake your
> hands and arms up to attach the down pipe with the exhaust manifolds
> attached to the engine. And, I have small hands (wear a small cadet golf
> glove for those who know golf)
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
> > is it would be faster to remove the intake manifolds and carbs, then
> unfasten
> > the muffler and unbolt the exhaust manifold, rather than trying to reach
> up
> > beside the engine from under the car to get all six downpipe bolts in
> place.
> > And if, heaven forbid, the dpo used steel bolts instead of brass and
> they've
> > corroded together, that may be the only way you can get the downpipes
off.
> >
> > Cheers
> > gary
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:42:25 EST
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
There is more info about that as a period mod in an old (1958) article at my
website members.aol.com/wilko look in the tech section...the wrench icon...
It certainly cuts down on leaning in corners. That's it's only job. I put it
on the car years before the Bilsteins.
Rick
San Diego
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:54:14 -0500
Subject: Wire wheels
My 2c
60 BT7 2167
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:36:31 -0500
Subject: Looking for Brian Mertz
Jim
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 07:51:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Fuel leaking
Fuel is allowed into the slider/resistor area of the sender unit so it
is also necessary to seal the top cover and the screw terminal entry
hole.
This might be your problem.
Another possibility is that too long screws have been fitted at some
time and the solder ring has been forced away from the tank thus
cracking the soldering.
All the best
>I am caring for a friend's BN4 while he is in school. The problem is that
>gas is leaking from the tank around the sending unit seal when the tank
>is full. We have removed the unit, cleaned the mounting surface,
>installed a new gasket and screws and it still leaks. I had to put the
>car outside as the fumes were rather obnoxious in the house. Any
>thoughts? Thanks.
>
>Happy Healeying,
>
>Doug
>
>PS. Good thing I don' smoke!!
>
>
--
John Harper
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:45:51 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:47:00 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Order of Assembly
> When I had to replace my exhaust system, that's the way I did it after
> > several hours of #$%^@^& under the car. It truly is much easier and a
> lot
> > faster to remove the carbs and intake manifold unstall the exhaust
> > manifold-downpipe as one unit. there is just not enough room to snake
> your
> > hands and arms up to attach the down pipe with the exhaust manifolds
> > attached to the engine.
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:53:41 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Order of Assembly
I can think of a number of reasons for building the exhaust system in place
int he car, starting at the manifold. For one, it hasn't been that hard to
remove the downpipe nuts if you use the proper tools. And these consist of a
BSF 6-point socket for 100 systems and 6-point SAE socket for 6-cyl. cars,
plus some extensions. There is a neat extension version I picked up very
inexpensively form Harbor Freight Salvage that has a rounded drive end that
lets the socket wobble a bit, sort of like a very limited U-joint. This is
all you need to get the socket onto the brass nut and clear the down pipes
with the extension. ANd use enought extensions to place your driving wrench
handle below the bottom of the frame.
Roger
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 18:05:44 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
We only sell Dayton wire wheels. When I remove a new wheel from the shipping
box
I examine it for imperfections, burrs etc. remove the factory applied tape
covering the spoke nipples, remove the labels attached by the factory, clean
all the grease on the wheel and around the spoke heads inside the hub. I will
then apply industrial grade clear silicon to the spoke heads inside the hubs.
After this I replace the bead tape.
We also true the wheel to better then factory specs.
Go to our web site at WWW.HENDRIXWIREWHEEL.COM for a tour of our shop and
catalogue.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 18:09:59 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
We only sell Dayton wheels.
Best Regards,
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:15:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Fw: Order of Assembly -- was handbrake installation.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 18:22:47 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
<< Gary,
We only sell Dayton wheels.
Best Regards,
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
Greensboro, NC >>
Guess that puts us back to Moss if we want original-spec painted wire wheels.
Roger says they still stock the Dunlop wheels.
Cheers
Gary
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:25:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:26:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Overflow
This is a typical symptom of all SU equipped british
cars. Next time it happens, tap on the top of the
Carburettor float chambers with a wrench or something
solid and it will likely stop. It simply means your
float bowl jets are sticking open - you should
probably replace them with new ones.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dan Tiedge <dtiedge@aholdusa.com> wrote:
> Turned on the BN2 today and the fuel pump clicked
> for several seconds as
> normal but then didn't stop. Next thing I heard was
> fuel flowing onto the
> garage floor at a pretty good clip.
>
> I guess it makes sense that it has to go somewhere
> if the fuel pump keeps
> sending it, but is it supposed to just flow out?
> Looks like there's an
> overflow tube dropping down from the carbs but it
> appears to just end an
> inch or two above the exhaust, which doesn't seem to
> make a whole lot of
> sense.
>
> What is supposed to happen in this situation?
>
> Meanwhile, after I jacked up the car to get a better
> look at what was
> happening (where the fuel was coming from) from
> below, the fuel pump, of
> course, stopped after a second or two as normal, so
> I never could see where
> the fuel came from.
>
> Thanks in advance for any and all tips.
>
> Regards.
>
>
>
> Daniel C. Tiedge
> Ahold USA, Inc.
> 14101 Newbrook Drive
> Chantilly, VA 20151
> (703) 961-6083 - (Office)
> (571) 220-6049 - (Cell)
>
> '56 BN2
> '62 TR4
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 16:13:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Fw: Order of Assembly
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <healey6@optonline.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Order of Assembly
snip
> There is a neat extension version I picked up very
> inexpensively form Harbor Freight Salvage that has a rounded drive end
that
> lets the socket wobble a bit, sort of like a very limited U-joint. > snip
> Roger
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:35:51 -0500
Subject: Re:Mallory Dual Point Distributor
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 18:02:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
The car now handles the windy mountain roads in Hong
Kong like a dream - and I can kinda keep up with all
the zippy porsches and ferrarris running aroung this
town without losing too much face!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> i also use the large ARB, however, since i'm using
> the polyurethene bushes, find it necessary to use
> the heavy duty end links otherwise this setup will
> snap the ends off of the regular endlinks. i'm
> running standard shocks. i also use the poly bushes
> on the rear panhard rod. as rick says, this does
> eliminate a lot of rolling in the corners.
> WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I'm a big fan of the stiffer antiroll bar (sway
> bar)
> >
> > There is more info about that as a period mod in
> an old (1958) article at my
> > website members.aol.com/wilko look in the tech
> section...the wrench icon...
> >
> > It certainly cuts down on leaning in corners.
> That's it's only job. I put it
> > on the car years before the Bilsteins.
> >
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 19:56:23 EST
Subject: 1964 austin healey bj7 mark11
i have just purchased my healey. i live on long island in new york. i am
looking for some help in finding someone in my area that can work on my car.
thanking you in advance
mitch
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:11:41 -0800
Subject: Re:Fuel leaking
John
'62 BT7
At 10:16 PM 3/24/02 -0500, you wrote:
>I am caring for a friend's BN4 while he is in school. The problem is that
>gas is leaking from the tank around the sending unit seal when the tank
>is full. We have removed the unit, cleaned the mounting surface,
>installed a new gasket and screws and it still leaks. I had to put the
>car outside as the fumes were rather obnoxious in the house. Any
>thoughts? Thanks.
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 23:08:49 EST
Subject: Sundays Wild Ride
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 23:15:41 EST
Subject: Need used piston
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:18:17 -0800
Subject: mechanic
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from Dayton wheels have given me the surest, most stable, flattest cornering,
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 06:39:42 EST
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 08:09:45 -0500
Subject: wire wheels
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 08:11:12 +0000
Subject: Re: Fw: Order of Assembly
All the best
>I can think of a number of reasons for building the exhaust system in place
>int he car, starting at the manifold. For one, it hasn't been that hard to
>remove the downpipe nuts if you use the proper tools. And these consist of a
>BSF 6-point socket for 100 systems and 6-point SAE socket for 6-cyl. cars,
>plus some extensions. There is a neat extension version I picked up very
>inexpensively form Harbor Freight Salvage that has a rounded drive end that
>lets the socket wobble a bit, sort of like a very limited U-joint. This is
>all you need to get the socket onto the brass nut and clear the down pipes
>with the extension. ANd use enought extensions to place your driving wrench
>handle below the bottom of the frame.
>
> Roger
>
--
John Harper
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 08:39:05 EST
Subject: Re: wire wheels
>
> There is an alternative. I called Dayton Wheel and they rebuilt
> my original 60 spoke wheels for me. I found the price very reasonable
> the service and concern well above average
>
Rebuilding a wheel only works if the splines are in very good or excellent
shape. When installed on an axle-hub, the innermost 3/8" or so of the wheel
splines are not engaged with the axle hub's. Thus, this portion of the
wheel's splines stay as-new and are never worn.
If you remove a knock-off and slide the weel out about 1" you will engage the
"new" wheel splines with the axle-hub ones. With someone putting on the
brake (for a front assembly), or using the hand brake to hold the axle at the
rear, try to rotate the wheel relative to the axle hub. You should have only
about 1/8" or less of movement at the circumference of the tire if the hub
splines are in excellent condition. If this is the case, then push the wheel
back in against the cone at the rear of the axle hub and try rotation again.
The more the wheel can rotate, compared to when you were checking the new
part of the wheel splines, the more the wear in the "working" part of the
wheel hub. Over 1/4" and I wouldln't bother to rebuild the wheel.
If the first part of this test shows that the hub is significantly worn, then
you'll waste money fixing the wheel if you don't also replace the hub.
Still, you can use the relative rotation between the new and working part of
the wheel splines to check the severity of wheel hub wear.
Another qluick test is to clean grease from the wheel hub splines (and there
should be a lot there!) and gently/carefully run you finger inside against he
splines. You'll find a transition about 3/8" from the inboard end, and the
more noticable this is the more the wheel's splines are worn. To get a
quantitative extimate of the severity of this wear you need to do the test
described above, however.
Remember, a new wheel costs about $160, so you need to compare against this
when deciding what risk you want to take with old splines.
And finally, there is only one type of wheel that you cannot buy new -- the
early 100 wheels with shallow configuration to the hub piece. These are
older wheels than on most Healeys, so their chance of being badly worn is
greater. Still, for accuracy of appearance, if thely are not too badly worn
they ought to be rebuilt and saved. For driving, new replacement wheels
would be safer.
Roger
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 05:54:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Greetings Healey Affectionados,
> I have both Bilstein shocks and a heavy duty roll bar that I got from
> Dennis Welch on my BJ8. These changes and 72 spoke stainless steel wheels
> from Dayton wheels have given me the surest, most stable, flattest cornering,
> vibration free rice ever in the 20 years that I've had this car. I'd
> recommend the change to anyone.
> Rich Antal
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:26:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Jerry Wall" <jwbn6@iopener.net>; <WilKo@aol.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
> I have Cape-International's rose-jointed anti-roll bar
> on my BJ8 - I put it on last year - and I have to say
> it literally transformed the handling of the car -
> it'll head into a manageable four wheel skid now long
> before I get any noticeable body lean.
>
> The car now handles the windy mountain roads in Hong
> Kong like a dream - and I can kinda keep up with all
> the zippy porsches and ferrarris running aroung this
> town without losing too much face!
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> > i also use the large ARB, however, since i'm using
> > the polyurethene bushes, find it necessary to use
> > the heavy duty end links otherwise this setup will
> > snap the ends off of the regular endlinks. i'm
> > running standard shocks. i also use the poly bushes
> > on the rear panhard rod. as rick says, this does
> > eliminate a lot of rolling in the corners.
> > WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm a big fan of the stiffer antiroll bar (sway
> > bar)
> > >
> > > There is more info about that as a period mod in
> > an old (1958) article at my
> > > website members.aol.com/wilko look in the tech
> > section...the wrench icon...
> > >
> > > It certainly cuts down on leaning in corners.
> > That's it's only job. I put it
> > > on the car years before the Bilsteins.
> > >
> > >
> > > Rick
> > > San Diego
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:36:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Byron Krystad
" This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
Delivery to the following recipients failed.
bkrystad@hotmail.msn.com "
Please provide correct address or information as to why delivery failed
and I will try to resend the files you asked for.
--Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
File your taxes online! http://taxes.yahoo.ca
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:35:41 -0500
Subject: cb radio
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:27:46 -0800
Subject: Re: mechanic
This guy knows just about all there is to know
from Sprites, BN1s thru BJ8s, and Nasty-Boys
his name is Ron Davies.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
60BN7 #405 (Nasty-Boy)
Ron, did Gill contact you ref his Lucas problems ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 8:18 PM
Subject: mechanic
> Can anyone recommend a 3000 Mk III Healey mechanic near south Orange
County
> California? From San Clemente to Newport Beach to Santa Ana...
> Thanks so much,
> Ron
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:33:32 -0800
Subject: Re: cb radio
I really like my Uniden PRO-510 XL. It's very compact, low priced but not
cheaply made, has an external speaker jack (if the built-in speaker isn't
enough), and is dual polarity, which you need if your car is positive
ground.
Be sure you get your antenna properly tuned. The radio shop I bought my
antenna from did this at no extra charge.
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 6:35 AM
Subject: cb radio
> Listers,
> I want to have cb for the trip to Lake Tahoe from North Carolina. Any
> recommendations? Is there cb /cd combo? Feedback as always helpful.
> Thanks Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:06:54 EST
Subject: Re: 1964 austin healey bj7 mark11
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:09:11 EST
Subject: Re: Need used piston
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 08:44:58 -0800
Subject: Re: mechanic
Chris Gough
Chris' British Car Service
2120-A Harbor Blvd
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(behind Hub Auto Supply)
949 642-4122
Although I do the majority of the work on my car myself, Chris has helped me
with
advise and the rebuilding of a few parts. I've seen quite a few other Healeys in
his shop and he is a good honest mechanic. He's been in business there since
1969.
-John
rdavies wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a 3000 Mk III Healey mechanic near south Orange County
> California? From San Clemente to Newport Beach to Santa Ana...
> Thanks so much,
> Ron
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:39:56 EST
Subject: Re: British Car Week in Maryland--2002
The response to Gary was follows:
"BTW, since we live on the water I could cut you some special slack if you
plan to arrive via Healeyboat... The dock is open, the latitude/longitude
coordinates are:
38 degrees 25.393 minutes north, 76 degrees 29.663 minutes west--call for
navigational instructions!"
Everyone come and meet and hobnob with the rich and famous...and the rest of
us! For information go to:
<A
HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm";>Attend
British Car Week in Maryland May 26th, 2002</A>
Seeyall then--Michael Oritt
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From "Grumpyingb" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:16:29 -0800
Subject: Dixon Car Show and swap meet May 19
Registration is $ 15 for pre-registration. A class will be set up as long as
at least 3 models register for that class.
http://www.ubscc.org/index.htm
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From "Magicare" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 13:19:11 -0500
Subject: RE: Suspension upgrade
As the car was not road licensed my only test track was around our
building. I had driven the car around the building many times, testing
various things, so I was able to do it at fairly impressive speeds. Turn
1 was a right hander (they were all right handers) down hill which
tended to close up as you entered the east alley way.
As I entered the corner having just tapped the brakes to set the car up
I was horrified to find that we had induced SERIOUS understeer. Needless
to say I was most relieved when the newly restored 100S missed the wall
of my neighbours building by about 2".
Lesson 1: Start slowly after suspension modifications
Lesson @ :A 1/8" increase in roll bar diameter profoundly affects the
handling characteristics of a 100S.
Mike Salter
Precision Sportscar
www.precisionsportscar.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 8:55 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
I've heard/read that the way to reduce understeer in Healeys is to
add a rear anti-roll bar. It seems a stronger front anti-roll bar might
increase the understeer, or is there no effect on steering qualities?
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com
(work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Greetings Healey Affectionados,
> I have both Bilstein shocks and a heavy duty roll bar that I got
from
> Dennis Welch on my BJ8. These changes and 72 spoke stainless steel
wheels
> from Dayton wheels have given me the surest, most stable, flattest
cornering,
> vibration free rice ever in the 20 years that I've had this car. I'd
> recommend the change to anyone.
> Rich Antal
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 13:57:33 -0500
Subject: Re: British Car Week in Maryland--2002
I have a Healey Ice-Scraper - can you provide a bit of snow for my
intended visit?
Charley
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 15:32:48 -0600
Subject: Re: cb radio
> Listers,
> I want to have cb for the trip to Lake Tahoe from North Carolina. Any
> recommendations? Is there cb /cd combo? Feedback as always helpful.
> Thanks Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
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From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 15:59:51 -0500
Subject: Transportation Ontario to Lake Tahoe & Back
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:39:23 -0500
Subject: A bunch of questions
I had some trouble shifting the car but I attribute that partly to age and
also the fact that the left hand suspension platform for the motor mount was
crumbled. The motor, therefore, slanted down and to the left. The suspension
platform has since been fixed. Does my assumption about shifting difficulty
make sense?
Currently I am planning on a selective rebuild and want to ask the list for
some feedback.
The clutch disk and throwout bearing is being replaced. I would prefer not to
replace the pressure plate - they are expensive. Should I replace the plate?
How can you tell if they are defective?
I am planning on removing the head and checking on carbon buildup, and any
thing else I can find. Is this a worthwhile endevour?
Should I replace the timing chain and timing chain tensioner while the engine
is out of the car?
The sump has the customary big dent in the front. Should I remove the sump
and fix this? Would a dent in the front affect oil pickup, etc.?
Anything else I should do?
Also, part of the engine and attachments are still green, but part is blue.
The water pump - which I believe is original as it has the oil plug - is green
as is the fan pulley, the sump, the cylinder head and the valve cover. But
the damper is blue as is the timing chain cover and much of the block. Is it
possible that heat or chemicals turned the original green to blue, or should I
assume a previous owner has rebuilt the engine?
Sorry for the length of this, but thanks for your help.
Larry Swift
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From "John R. Draxler" <jdrax at tds.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 16:13:47 -0600
Subject: Fenders for sale
I am finishing up the resto on this one and these are spares
They are new aftermarket ones.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 16:43:33 -0800
Subject: 3:545 diffs available -------
Over the past couple of years, I have been experimenting with transmissions,
overdrives, diffs, gearing, etc. As a result, I have acquired a few
original 3:545 diffs, salvaged from the large British saloons of the period.
My own needs are met, and I have decided to offer for sale at this time a
limited number of these units. They are complete diff pod assemblies with
11/39 crown/pinion gearing, ready to bolt into the car. They are identical
to the diffs installed in the non-overdrive Healey 3000's.
They will vary in price according to their apparent condition and/or what I
have done to refurbish them. (Some have new bearings, seals, etc, and some
have not been touched). At least three of them have been run on the road in
my BJ8 (Toyota 5-speed equipped, which is what started the whole thing!)
I offer them at this time because it is possible that I would be able to get
a couple down to Tahoe if there are buyers. This would save a bit on
shipping etc. etc. for the purchaser.
If you have any interest in one of these units, please contact me off-list
and we can discuss the particulars.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri carb
'67 BJ8
PS: I also have a couple of worn out 3:9 diffs - the cases and centre
sections could be used for installing a Lempert 3:5 gearset if you don't
want to strip the original diff in your car. - EK
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 16:59:16 -0800
Subject: BN1 Water pump impeller needed (or whole pump)
-Roland
BN1 #724
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:20:14 -0800
Subject: March 30 trip to Western Railway Museum
EVENT ALERT
Saturday March 30
Day trip to Western Railway Museum
Brunch at the Hotel Del Rio in Isleton
Let's try it again. Last Saturday's rain precluded a good trip. Let's
hope this Saturday will be better.
We will depart from the parking lot at Lee Bardellini's offices at 9 AM
Saturday March 30. Lee's offices are located at 3160 Crow Canyon Road in
San Ramon.
Directions: North on I-680 from I-580 or the South Bay, or South
on
I-680 from I-80 or Marin, go to the Crow Canyon Road in San
Ramon. Go
east on Crow Canyon Road two intersections (about a quarter mile) to
Camino Ramon. Go left on Camino Ramon and then immediately left again
into the first driveway to 3160.
Lee's office phone is 925-277- 3580.
You can reach me at 408-541-9608
408-373-6479 cellphone
We'll head north on I-680 to Concord, pick up 242 to 4 and Continue along
the Sacramento River to Antioch, across the Antioch Bridge, and onto 160.
up to Isleton for Brunch at the Hotel Del Rio. Return to Rio Vista and the
railway museum will be via back roads through the Delta, and will include
two short ferry crossings.
The Western Railway Museum is located at Rio Vista Junction on Highway 12,
approximately 12 miles east of Highway 80 (about midway between
Suisun-Fairfield and Rio Vista).
The Hotel Del Rio is located in downtown Iselton on the left heading
east.
I've necer been there, but Iselton can't be that big.
For more information on the Western Railway Museum go to the web site at
www.wrm.org
Please let me know by phone or e-mail if you plan to attend so I can get a
head count for brunch. Thanks
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 18:13:55 -0700
Subject: Exaust system
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:13:37 -0500
Subject: Re:Lost Mail
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:44:13 EST
Subject: British Car Week in Maryland--2002
> News bulletin: The following message was received from Gary Lownsdale,
> President of AHCA: In a message dated 3/26/02 10:37:10 AM Eastern Standard
> Time, AHCAPres writes:
> >> "Gary (Lownsdale) has indicated that he might be attending."
>
> The response to Gary was follows:
>
> "BTW, since we live on the water I could cut you some special slack if you
> plan to arrive via Healeyboat... The dock is open, the latitude/longitude
> coordinates are:
> 38 degrees 25.393 minutes north, 76 degrees 29.663 minutes west--call for
> navigational instructions!"
>
> Everyone come and meet and hobnob with the rich and famous...and the rest
> of us! For information go to:
>
> <A
>HREF="http://www.chesapeake.net/~oritt/British%20Car%20Week--2002.htm";>Attend
>British Car Week in Maryland May 26th, 2002</A>
>
> Seeyall then--Michael Oritt
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 20:14:27 -0800
Subject: Re: cb radio
> Listers,
> I want to have cb for the trip to Lake Tahoe from North Carolina. Any
> recommendations? Is there cb /cd combo? Feedback as always helpful.
> Thanks Dave
> blue bj8 in blue ridge mts.
Dave & List,
I asked this question on the Shop-talk list a couple of months ago.
Go here for their archive:
http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/wilma_glimpse/shop-talk?query=cb+radios&errors=0&maxfiles=50&maxlines=10&.cgifields=lineonly&.cgifields=filelist&.cgifields=case&.cgifields=partial&.cgifields=restricttofiles
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 23:26:53 -0500
Subject: RE: 1964 austin healey bj7 mark11
Welcome. Try Tyrolean Auto Sports in Northport (631-261-4079).
The only work I've had them do was to put new tires on my wire wheels,
but several members of the MG club recommended him.
BTW, the contact for the Long Island region of the Austin Healey
Sports and Touring Club is Paul Parfrey (WorksHealey@aol.com).
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of APPRAISE11@aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 7:56 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 1964 austin healey bj7 mark11
hi to all,
i have just purchased my healey. i live on long island in new york. i am
looking for some help in finding someone in my area that can work on my car.
thanking you in advance
mitch
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 23:26:46 -0500
Subject: RE: was Tornado, now K&N
BTW, I have read a bit of the bad press about K&Ns. The only reason
I use them on my MG is that they are the only decent filter I can find
which would clear the brake booster after I converted from a single Z-S
to dual SUs.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Richard Beels
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 2:49 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: was Tornado, now K&N
The problem with K&Ns is that people don't clean and/or re-oil the filter
element. If you don't clean it, you get less air, which is bad. If you
clean and don't re-oil, you get air but it's dirty - which is bad as well.
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From Jag62e at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:18:00 EST
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
<< All these praise for the stiffer anti-roll bar makes me wonder why the
factory didn't put them in all production cars. Anybody know of a
down-side?
>>
As the anti-roll bar becomes stiffer, your independent front suspension
becomes less independent.
Dick North
BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:21:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Exaust system
No worries - I know lots of people who don't like the
resonators on the BJ8. There should be no mechanical
reason to run anything else, although I believe the
back pressure on the BJ7/BT7/BN7 set up is slightly
higher than in the BJ8 set up. The BJ7 uses only one
silencer where the BJ8 uses four silencers in 2x2
tandem. As a result the BJ8 set up is more quiet and
produces more horsepower... although is more complex
and expensive.
Why not get the BJ8 system w/o the resonators, cut off
the curve at the end of the mufflers and run them
straight back? That way you get the horsepower
benefits of the BJ8's more open system but the noise
of earlier cars w/ a lower price to boot. I know
several BJ8 owners that have done this set up. I for
one, however, like the nice quiet power note of the
proper BJ8 set up. It's much better for long trips...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> I know I risk censure from the purists, but is there
> any mechanical reason why
> I can't use a stainless steel BJ7 system on my under
> construction BJ8? Much
> less money and a single muffler system (sound)
> appeals to me.
> Thanks
> Sid 65BJ8
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:51:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
Answering them one by one -
> I had some trouble shifting the car but I attribute
> that partly to age and
> also the fact that the left hand suspension platform
> for the motor mount was
> crumbled. The motor, therefore, slanted down and to
> the left. The suspension
> platform has since been fixed. Does my assumption
> about shifting difficulty
> make sense?
A Slanted motor (bad motor mount) shouldn't cause hard
shifting, unless the slanting is significant.
Typically only three things will cause difficult
shifting - worn synchros, worn shifting forks, or
motor oil with modern anti-friction additives in the
gearbox. But also consider most healeys are hard to
shift, period. The best way to shift is with a slow
movement & light touch - giving the old brass synchros
time to spin up the gears - once you do this you'll
find the car shifts very easily. I do easy,
purposeful shifting with both my BJ8 and my BN1.
> The clutch disk and throwout bearing is being
> replaced. I would prefer not to
> replace the pressure plate - they are expensive.
> Should I replace the plate?
> How can you tell if they are defective?
Pressure plates do wear - if you are worried about
cost you can usually have a pressure plate rebuilt
(rather than getting a new one) for not too much
money. I'd suggest having it rebuilt. Don't buy a
rebuilt disc (buy only a new one), however, they can
break after only a few thousand miles
>
> I am planning on removing the head and checking on
> carbon buildup, and any
> thing else I can find. Is this a worthwhile
> endevour?
You should get your head rebuilt to run on unleaded.
Also, if you take your head off, you should have the
head surfaced lightly.
>
> Should I replace the timing chain and timing chain
> tensioner while the engine
> is out of the car?
Yes. While you're at it you should check your cam
followers to see if they are worn.
>
> The sump has the customary big dent in the front.
> Should I remove the sump
> and fix this? Would a dent in the front affect oil
> pickup, etc.?
No, leave it alone. If you fix it, it will just get
dented again... and the second time it gets dented the
sump will crack and lose all its oil. Better to just
leave it or replace it with a new sump. It won't
affect your oil circulation. - All six cylinders that
are driven regularly have dented sumps.
>
> Anything else I should do?
Personally, If I had the motor out of the car I'd do a
complete breakdown of the motor and replace all the
bearings at a very minimum... if not rebuild the whole
thing.
>
> Also, part of the engine and attachments are still
> green, but part is blue.
> The water pump - which I believe is original as it
> has the oil plug - is green
> as is the fan pulley, the sump, the cylinder head
> and the valve cover. But
> the damper is blue as is the timing chain cover and
> much of the block. Is it
> possible that heat or chemicals turned the original
> green to blue, or should I
> assume a previous owner has rebuilt the engine?
Engine gunk, over time, can remove or discolor old
paint from the motor if used often. The blue may be
from excessive use of degreasers... or it may mean the
motor's been rebuilt. There's no way to tell - if the
blue is distinctively differen with a good paint
condition... then the motor may have been rebuilt at
some time. However it should be set up, basically
everything on the motor should be metallic green in
color.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 06:30:01 -0500
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
You mentioned that modern oils with their additives can make for a harder
gear change. Why is this? I would have thought the opposite ... The
slipperier the oil the better the internals move, no? What oil do you
recommend for the gearbox ... Are leak stopping additives not recommended,
could I use one meant for the engine since the manual recommends the same
oil for the gearbox as for the engine?
Thanks in advance,
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From Browning David <BrowningD at tce.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:36:29 -0500
Subject: RE: A bunch of questions
dB
'55 BN1
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 3:52 AM
To: Larry Swift; Healey
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
Larry -
Answering them one by one -
> I had some trouble shifting the car but I attribute
> that partly to age and
> also the fact that the left hand suspension platform
> for the motor mount was
> crumbled. The motor, therefore, slanted down and to
> the left. The suspension
> platform has since been fixed. Does my assumption
> about shifting difficulty
> make sense?
A Slanted motor (bad motor mount) shouldn't cause hard
shifting, unless the slanting is significant.
Typically only three things will cause difficult
shifting - worn synchros, worn shifting forks, or
motor oil with modern anti-friction additives in the
gearbox. But also consider most healeys are hard to
shift, period. The best way to shift is with a slow
movement & light touch - giving the old brass synchros
time to spin up the gears - once you do this you'll
find the car shifts very easily. I do easy,
purposeful shifting with both my BJ8 and my BN1.
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:48:58 -0500
Subject: Re:Heater Parts
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:14:21
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
It's true the newer lubricants have many additives which can be detrimental
to older engines and drive trains. The newer cars are made to run on
thinner oils and with additives which were not available when our cars were
built.
If you will furnish your mailing address I will be happy to send you a
brochure and other information from Penrite, which have the correct
formulations for older automobiles.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.chassicautolubes.com
At 06:30 AM 03/27/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Alan,
>
>You mentioned that modern oils with their additives can make for a harder
>gear change. Why is this? I would have thought the opposite ... The
>slipperier the oil the better the internals move, no? What oil do you
>recommend for the gearbox ... Are leak stopping additives not recommended,
>could I use one meant for the engine since the manual recommends the same
>oil for the gearbox as for the engine?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Andy
>--------------------
>Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
>Andy Phillips
>CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
>www.cylogix.com
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From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:24:26 -0500
Subject: Re:Keys
Regards,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:38:04 EST
Subject: Re: Pennrite Oil Reference Information
If that information can be put in electronic format, such as a PDF, DOC or
TXT file
I'm sure there are many of us who would sign up to receive the information. I
know oils have been discussed before, but I don't remember an offer for a
published document on the subject.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:13:52 -0500
Subject: Stainless Exhausts
A couple or three years ago I mentioned on the list that the old Stebro
company was alive and well just across the river from where I live. A
couple of listers contacted them and me, but I don't think very much was
resolved, and I thought that it had died a natural death.
There have recently been a couple of questions regarding exhaust
systems, so I thought I would pay a visit to Stebro to see what was
going on. It turns out that, following that last brief period of Healey
activity, Stebro dug back into their files (actually the files of the
original company) and found the plans for the A-H 3000 exhaust which was
manufactured in the 60's and sold as an after market SS exhaust. They
have since refabricated the tooling needed to make these mufflers, and
have in fact made a couple of them. Last year they fitted two Healeys
with their new mufflers, and they have one more on their shelf. All
their mufflers are individually hand made. (I note that their web site,
http://www.magi.com/~andypet/ has not been updated to indicate that
they can supply Healey mufflers).
These mufflers are of the side exhaust type only, and as mentioned, are
identical to the 1960's side exhaust design. What this means is that the
muffler is not the one piece unit as was the stock BMC muffler, but is
made up of two shorter units (one a muffler, the other a resonator, I
was advised) of about the same size each, joined by two side by side
very short sections of pipe. The final product is the same size as the
BMC muffler. When looking at the muffler, I realised that the material
used is about twice as thick as that in the SS muffler which I bought
from the UK for my Healey.
These units are NOT cheap!!! They want US$475 for the muffler with side
exhaust pipes. They have the specs for the two front down pipes, and can
fabricate them in SS if a customer wants them, at additional cost. Andy
advised that they can deliver Healey exhausts with a two to three week
waiting time.
I am advised that the Ferrari, Maserati, Alfa, BMW etc owners, which
constitutes Stebro's major market, are pleased with the product.
I have no personal or business interest in Stebro.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:57:22 -0800
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
One has to be very cautious about what oil / additives you use in an
overdrive gearbox - in most of them, (all of the Healey gearboxes), the oil
is shared between both the 'box and the o/d.
The one thing you don't want to do is use anything that reduces friction -
the old style 'baulk' rings (the synchro rings) need all the help
friction-wise that they can get, and the cone clutch in the overdrive must
not slip at all! I've seen people weep when they've had to dismantle the
overdrive because they used a too-slippery additive!
This has been addressed before: several of us are using a Redline Oil
product called 'MTL' It actually has a friction enhancing additive. It has
immediately improved the shifting feel in every gearbox we've used it with,
including the 'test' vehicle, an o/d equipped MGB that my wife drives daily,
and has had MTL in it for four years! It substantially helped a very cranky
gearbox in my tri-carb a couple of years ago, (needs work), and even helped
the Toyota 'box in my BJ8.
I'm assuming that the correct Penrite product works just as well, and I know
that there are some other manufacturers with equivalent oils. A look at
Redline's web-site is probably worthwhile. www.redlineoil.com , and will
give all the technical specs for their products.
BTW, MTL - 'Maual Transaxle Lubricant' - real tricky, no? Bear in mind that
among other things, it is designed for "manual transmissions that require
motor oils", as does the Healey.
Cheers, ---------------- Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8 - Toyota 5- speed/3:545 diff, factory hard-top
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Phillips" <AndyP@cylogix.com>
To: <international_investor@yahoo.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 3:30 AM
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
Alan,
You mentioned that modern oils with their additives can make for a harder
gear change. Why is this? I would have thought the opposite ... The
slipperier the oil the better the internals move, no? What oil do you
recommend for the gearbox ... Are leak stopping additives not recommended,
could I use one meant for the engine since the manual recommends the same
oil for the gearbox as for the engine?
Thanks in advance,
Andy
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:17:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Byron Krystad
I suggest you go directly to the following web sites.
The first article is entitled "Repairing Jaeger & Smiths
Speedometers" by Anthony Rhodes and is very detailed with pictures. It
can be found at: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/arhodes
[1222k]
The second article contains a number of pages of calibration
numbers and can be found at: http://www.greengauges.com/help/faq20.asp
[144k]
Good luck; --Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
File your taxes online! http://taxes.yahoo.ca
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:37:10 EST
Subject: re: was need piston
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:37:39 EST
Subject: BJ8 for sale
Other than a chattering first gear and high Clutch it appears to be a very
nice car. All proceeds benefit the college so please contact them directly, I
have no involvement other than volunteering to help in the marketing for this
charitable cause.
The web page also features a very nice 100 M for sale.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:02:14 -0800
Subject: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
My '62 BT7 Tri Carb is a driver, and I am compiling a "projects" list based on
ideas gathered here. Concours folks may shudder, but I believe the driver
hobbyist/enthusiast will see what I am shooting for.
My criterion: (all but the first being subjective I realize)
-No permanent modifications to car
-Enhance enjoyment/driveability/maintainability
-Do-it-yourself swap out/bolt on type project
-Good cost/benefit ratio
My list so far:
-Negative ground (already done by PO)
-Delco Alternator kit
-Electronic ignition (Petronix or ?)
-Balanced sleeve 180 thermostat
I am intrigued by the recent suspension (bilsteins and sway bar) & 3.54 gear
threads -- in the opinion of the list, does either qualify given my above
criterion? (Especially cost and do-it-yourself-ability?)
Any comments pro/con or additions to my list so far?
Many thanks in advance,
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:01:18 -0800
Subject: BT7 driver mods
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:51:21 EST
Subject: Wiring Harness for 59 BN4, AGAIN
Here's my deal for my BN4, 75759.
Restoration Book states:
Page 77 Chassis wiring harness should have Diagonal yellow tracer
Page 78 Table 3.1 Chassis wiring harness should have white tracer
Corrections p. 77 Chassis wiring harness should read "white tracer"
E-mail from Gary Anderson confirmed Chassis wiring harness should be white
tracer
Originality Guide states:
Page 52 Chassis wiring harness should have yellow tracer
Mine Chassis wiring harness from my car -- whats left of it -- has
yellow tracer. It has had two previous owners, first owner did not change
the harness, 2nd owner did not change the harness (I have been told this by
PO...he owned it from 73 till last year when I bought it, after sitting in
dry storage for past 24 years).
Moss The harness that is going in was bought from Moss (item #
356-340) and has yellow tracer. But it is main and chassis all in one and is
used for both BN4 and BN6 (they have the battery cut off wire coming out near
the left rear light wires, but is long enough to go over to the right side
for the BN4). They state it is correct to the original!
What I want to know is this....what do the Concours judges use to judge by?
What is the order of importance of these various sources? Any points ever
been deducted from someone for this type of issue? And even more important,
what is correct on this one issue? Until someone proves different, I'm going
with the harness as it was in this car. But that makes me nervous because I
am "swimming upstream" basing this on my investigation, and one thing I do
know for a fact is how dumb I am (maybe dumb, but not stupid). HELP !
Bill 59 BN4 75759
biloselhir@aol.com
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:23:41 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
<<
Any comments pro/con or additions to my list so far? >>
add:
lightened flywheel
BJ8 cam grind
lower ratio over-drive from BN6
Cheers
Gary
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:35:28 -0800
Subject: RE: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
/
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 19:29:13 EST
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness for 59 BN4, AGAIN
> Restoration Book states:
> Page 77 Chassis wiring harness should have Diagonal yellow tracer
> Page 78 Table 3.1 Chassis wiring harness should have white tracer
> Corrections p. 77 Chassis wiring harness should read "white tracer"
> E-mail from Gary Anderson confirmed Chassis wiring harness should be white
> tracer
>
> Originality Guide states:
> Page 52 Chassis wiring harness should have yellow tracer
>
> Mine Chassis wiring harness from my car -- whats left of it -- has
>
> yellow tracer. It has had two previous owners, first owner did not change
> the harness, 2nd owner did not change the harness (I have been told this by
>
> PO...he owned it from 73 till last year when I bought it, after sitting in
> dry storage for past 24 years).
>
> Moss The harness that is going in was bought from Moss (item #
> 356-340) and has yellow tracer. But it is main and chassis all in one and
> is
> used for both BN4 and BN6 (they have the battery cut off wire coming out
> near
> the left rear light wires, but is long enough to go over to the right side
> for the BN4). They state it is correct to the original!
>
OK, let me take another swing at this. I apologize for leaping to an answer
without more careful thought or checking -- I assumed the table in our book
would be more right than the text when they contradicted each other. Not
true, as Roger reminded me. The table was made up later and obviously the two
items got transposed, either when the table was written or when the printer
reset it for printing. So, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
Now then, here's what we believe: After the BN4s were introduced, to minimize
confusion in the parts department between BN2 and BN4 harnesses, a yellow
tracer was added to the main and chassis harness on the BN4s. Later, when the
BN6s were put into production, because they had their battery cut-off switch
on the left side bulkhead rather than at the rear of the trunk, a different
wire was used for the cut-off switch, requiring a different chassis harness.
Since both BN4s and BN6s were assembled on the same line, they had to have a
way of distinguishing the two, so they switched the tracer in the chassis
harness on the BN6 to white.
That is the information that is reflected in the Restoration Guidelines --
yellow trace on the BN4's chassis harness and white trace on the BN6's
chassis harness. And I'll correct our errata sheet to correspond to that.
Now then, as to the Moss harness. As per the above, it's fine to have a
yellow trace on both the main harness and the chassis harness. HOWEVER, I'm
concerned about your remark that the two harnesses are "one in one." If that
means that there is not a set of six bullet connectors at the point where the
wiring goes through a grommet bracket and down to the frame rail from within
the engine compartment, allowing the two sections to be completely separated,
then you have a problem as this is most definitely not original. Take a look
at the wiring diagram from the workshop manual and you can see those
connections. I'm also sorry to hear that Moss is still supplying the same
harness for both the BN4 and BN6. Though it would be perfectly functional to
do that, it isn't correct. A much more correct harness is available from
other suppliers, notably British Wiring and Rhode Island Wiring.
Finally, as to precedence in judging standards. Our policy states that no
owner will be deducted for having a component prepared and presented as
indicated in the Concours Committee Restoration Guidelines. However, if the
entrant can make a good case that those guidelines are in error, based on
"primary" sources such as the Workship Manual or Service Parts List or based
on personal research and careful review of the car they are restoring, then
that entrant may be allowed to deviate from the Guidelines. (e.g. if we
screwed up and wrote something wrong compared to the Service Parts List -- as
it is obviously possible to do -- or if you find that, say, a clip on your
car is painted body color when the Guidelines say it should be unfinished,
and you point that deviation out to the judges before the judging starts,
then you'll most likely be given the benefit of the doubt and your point will
be accepted).
However, I'm afraid that a claim from a supplier that "The piece we supplied
is correct" would not make a strong enough case to override specific
statements in the Guidelines.
If there are any owners out there preparing cars for inspection at Tahoe who
have specific questions similar to Bill's, please feel free to email me with
your questions. I'll poll the specialists on the committee and get an answer
back to you immediately.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Chairman, Concours Registry
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:50:45 +1100
Subject: Still Get Shivers up the Spine
Nothing special, just thought I would pass on this good feeling.
I live out the back of lower Woop Woop some 90Ks from Sydney and yesterday
as I walked from my sedan to the railway station I heard a familiar burble
coming along the main road. You don't see that many Austin-Healeys on the
road here in Australia but sure enough it was a Healey blue over white 3000
Mk1. What a marvellous sight I thought.
Next month makes the 30th anniversary of me buying my first Austin-Healey
and even after all that time the sight of one on the road still sends
shivers up my spine.
Happy Easter to All
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:11:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness for 59 BN4, AGAIN
Until someone proves different, I'm going with the harness as it was in
this car.
Bill,
I don't know what is considered "correct", But there have been enough
discrepancies between what the sources say is original on my car and what I
know to be original on my car to make me a little skeptical.
I would say that if your car came originally with a yellow tracer then a
yellow tracer is original for your car, regardless of what the experts say.
This is not meant as a slam to those who have done the research, I would be
lost without them. It is simply an acknowledgement of variations found in a
British production car from the 1950's.
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:45:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Still Get Shivers up the Spine
> the sight of one on the road still sends
> shivers up my spine.
Or in a movie or TV commercial, or on a billboard, or in a magazine ad, or, ...
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> G'day
>
> Nothing special, just thought I would pass on this good feeling.
>
> I live out the back of lower Woop Woop some 90Ks from Sydney and yesterday
> as I walked from my sedan to the railway station I heard a familiar burble
> coming along the main road. You don't see that many Austin-Healeys on the
> road here in Australia but sure enough it was a Healey blue over white 3000
> Mk1. What a marvellous sight I thought.
>
> Next month makes the 30th anniversary of me buying my first Austin-Healey
> and even after all that time the sight of one on the road still sends
> shivers up my spine.
>
> Happy Easter to All
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:20:01 -0500
Subject: Healey Wall Art on Dream Car Garage
A big healey fender and quarter panel mounted up on the back wall!
See it during one of the interior garage shots on the back wall.
I think there are several showings left this week for this particular
episode.
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:23:09 EST
Subject: Re: was need piston
I have been having some trouble posting to the list, so hopefully this gets
through.
Cheers,
Chris
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:49:20 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
Jim, I would suggest the lightened flywheel. Cost about $200 and your labor
to install. Did it for my BN7. Does not affect engine HP but gives more HP
to the drive wheels. Car really does feel "livelier".
> My list so far:
>
> -Negative ground (already done by PO)
> -Delco Alternator kit
> -Electronic ignition (Petronix or ?)
> -Balanced sleeve 180 thermostat
All the above sound fine. Easily reversible, low cost.
>
> I am intrigued by the recent suspension (bilsteins and sway bar) & 3.54
gear
> threads -- in the opinion of the list, does either qualify given my above
> criterion? (Especially cost and do-it-yourself-ability?)
>
I beg to differ here on the above. The suspension mod cost would not make
it "good cost/benefit" ratio in my mind. Guess it is a matter of how
important the improved handling is to you. I question too how reversible
this is as any subsequent owner would not likely care for the cost of
reversing this if he/she is looking for originality. The 3.5 rear is a good
idea but expect to pay $500 or more for a complete job. Personally I think
the 3.5 rear falls short. I would like to be cruising the interstate at 70
and be taching say 2400 rpm. Wish Lempert had gone for a 3.2 to 3.3 rear!
Along the lines of comfort, may I suggest you install an interior light.
Found one which fits nicely to the two bolts holding the heater control
switches. Also added door switches. Makes it nice in the night time hours.
Finally, consider building up your arm rest to a comfortable height. Built
a wood box, covered it with matching uph material, and added a slideout
cupholder and door complete with turnbutton fastener. Can give you more
detail and photos if you like.
Keith Pennell
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From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:43:44 -0700
Subject: Re: A bunch of questions
Another thing that will cause hard shifting is a bad or inoperative clutch. Yes
, replace the pressure plate and check the function of the hydraulics.
Bill Lawrence
Andy Phillips wrote:
> Alan,
>
> You mentioned that modern oils with their additives can make for a harder
> gear change. Why is this? I would have thought the opposite ... The
> slipperier the oil the better the internals move, no? What oil do you
> recommend for the gearbox ... Are leak stopping additives not recommended,
> could I use one meant for the engine since the manual recommends the same
> oil for the gearbox as for the engine?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andy
> --------------------
> Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
> Andy Phillips
> CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
> www.cylogix.com
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:48:29 -0700
Subject: Trans lub
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From ryoung at oro.net (Rich)
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:48:21 -0800
Subject: BT7 Driver Mods-Gary
In your recent post you listed a lower ratio overdrive from a BN6 as a
desirable mod. What are some benefits of this change and can the 3000 side
shifts ODs be so modified? I gather this particular adaptation might be
more usable than than changing the diff. especially in hill and mountain
driving?
Rich Young
'60 BT7
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From "RONALD SOMERS" <arjayarjay at worldnet.att.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 07:32:37 -0800
Subject: Fender beading
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:36:40 -0800
Subject: Re: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
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From "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:26:23 -0800
Subject: Post Ignition
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:31:11 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:17:42 -0700
Subject: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
I also have a '62 BT7 tri-carb, and a similar philosophy. I see
some nice ideas coming in. Mine are mostly pretty minor (cheap), but I do
like the flashy chrome wire wheels.
High on my list is additional cockpit insulation. Plug any
holes/leaks, too! Be sure the "asbestos" heat shields underneath are in
place. Also, I've wrapped my front pipes (manifold to muffler) with that
fiberglass stuff that looks like webbing.
I might put in an auxiliary fuse block, and do a little minor
rewiring to gain better protection of individual circuits. Another
"dependability" mod might be a new solid-state S.U. fuel pump, although I
have no personal experience with them. Compared with other brands, these
would keep the characteristic sound and produce the right fuel pressure.
Along these lines, be sure that you have good fuel filter (the cheap,
in-line, paper-element filters work fine). If your carbs still have the
original float needle valves, you might want to get some Grose-Jets.
A spin-on oil filter conversion, of course, if you don't already
have one, and upgraded headlights if you drive at night.
It's not really a mod, but the cheapest/first/best thing for cooling
(again "in my opinion") is a little attention to the coolant. Flush the
system out, of course, and don't use greatly more anti-freeze than you
really need (water cools better). Then add a "water-wetter" (such as Red
Line) in the recommended proportion. This stuff REALLY WORKS!
Major (relative term) engine, drivetrain, and suspension mods aren't
cheap. These decisions might depend on your driving habits and your wallet.
Personally, I love the sound of the engine, and going through the gears, but
I don't try to be the fastest thing on the road. You may want to just
concentrate on getting all the stock stuff "up to snuff".
Bob Frisby
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:21:10 -0800
Subject: Post Ignition
> Hi All,
> I've read several articles and responses from people that have the same
> problems with post ignition. One recommends one additive the other,
another.
> One recommends taking the car out and getting on the highway to open her
up.
> Bottom line is, the only way that the Healey stops after being driven is
to
> simultaneously hold the break down while in gear and letting out the
clutch
> just as you turn the key to off.
> Does anyone have any suggestions that does eliminate post ingnition?
> Guy G.
> BJ7
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From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:32:21 -0800
Subject: Healey FAQ?
First time post from a newbie. Rather than clutter up things with a series
of technical questions, I was wondering if there exists a Austin Healey FAQ
somewhere on the Web?
Thanks,
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:03:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Post Ignition
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 12:26 PM
Subject: Post Ignition
> Hi All,
> I've read several articles and responses from people that have the same
> problems with post ignition. One recommends one additive the other,
another.
> One recommends taking the car out and getting on the highway to open her
up.
> Bottom line is, the only way that the Healey stops after being driven is
to
> simultaneously hold the break down while in gear and letting out the
clutch
> just as you turn the key to off.
> Does anyone have any suggestions that does eliminate post ingnition?
> Guy G.
> BJ7
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From "Mike Wedeln" <rotary at iname.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 14:09:43 -0500
Subject: What kind of shop am I looking for?
I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I work behind a desk
pushing paper so I don't know where to go.
I am looking to have a couple bumper brackets/outriders made for me from some
plans someone here sent me. This is for the rear of the car and will be used
in conjunction with Sprite bumperettes.
I thought of ordering a pair from Cape International until I heard from a
couple owners who have had problems with them, so I thought if I could get
someone local to make them for me, I'd be all set.
Only problem I have is what type of shop do I have do this kind of work and
how much would I expect to pay?
--
_______________________________________________
Win the Ultimate Hawaiian Experience from Travelocity.
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;4018363;6991039;n?http://svc.travelocity.com/promos/winhawaii/
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From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:29:47 -0800
Subject: RE: Healey FAQ?
- the archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys are a searchable
source of great information of previous questions and responses.
- the Austin-Healey Club USA has a resources page
http://www.healey.org/model-big-overview.shtml with tons of information
(marque overviews, price guides, registries, links...)
- Gary Anderson and Roger Moment recently co-authored a great Austin-Healey
restoration book http://www.healey.org/new-book.shtml that I'm often
referring to.
Brad Weldon
BN1 [226796]
http://bradw.com/
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:56:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Post Ignition
Lots of reasons why a Healey 'diesels'.
Do the basics first - make sure that the timing is set to spec, the carb
mixtures are correct or real close, and, very importantly, that the idle
speed is not too fast. Air leaks at the carb throttle shafts can be a
problem too, as can excessive running heat, old or too low a grade of fuel.
Incorrectly set valves could also be a factor. Also wouldn't hurt to check
that the vaccuum advance unit is working correctly.
As Ira says, you could retard the timing a couple of degrees and see what
happens.
If the basics don't help, hot spots in the combustion chambers, or a badly
carboned engine has to be considered - that gets a little more complicated.
If I had to guess at a distance, I'd say timing and idle speed would be
where I'd look first. Most Healey's wind up being set for too fast an idle
because they tend to bog in hot weather - getting the right balance can be
pretty picky!
Have fun, let us know,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
BT7 tri-carb, BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 11:26 AM
Subject: Post Ignition
Hi All,
I've read several articles and responses from people that have the same
problems with post ignition. One recommends one additive the other, another.
One recommends taking the car out and getting on the highway to open her up.
Bottom line is, the only way that the Healey stops after being driven is to
simultaneously hold the break down while in gear and letting out the clutch
just as you turn the key to off.
Does anyone have any suggestions that does eliminate post ingnition?
Guy G.
BJ7
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:26:12 -0800
Subject: Saturday Museum tour
REMINDER
On Saturday March 30 the Golden Gate Austion Healey Club will sponsor a
Day trip to Western Railway Museum in Rio Vista CA with brunch at the Hotel
Del Rio in Isleton
We will depart from the parking lot at Lee Bardellini's offices at 9 AM
Saturday March 30. Lee's offices are located at 3160 Crow Canyon Road in
San Ramon.
Directions: North on I-680 from I-580 or the South Bay, or South
on
I-680 from I-80 or Marin, go to the Crow Canyon Road in San
Ramon. Go
east on Crow Canyon Road two intersections (about a quarter mile) to
Camino Ramon. Go left on Camino Ramon and then immediately left again
into the first driveway to 3160.
Lee's office phone is 925-277- 3580.
You can reach me at 408-541-9608
408-373-6479 cellphone
We'll head north on I-680 to Concord, pick up 242 to 4 and Continue along
the Sacramento River to Antioch, across the Antioch Bridge, and onto 160.
up to Isleton for Brunch at the Hotel Del Rio. Return to Rio Vista and the
railway museum will be via back roads through the Delta, and will include
two short ferry crossings.
The Western Railway Museum is located at Rio Vista Junction on Highway 12,
approximately 12 miles east of Highway 80 (about midway between
Suisun-Fairfield and Rio Vista).
The Hotel Del Rio is located in downtown Isleton on the left heading
east.
I've never been there, but Iselton can't be that big.
For more information on the Western Railway Museum go to the web site
at
www.wrm.org
If you have not already done so, please let me know by phone or e-mail if
you plan to attend so I can get a head count for brunch. Thanks
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:34:29 -0800
Subject: Parking stickers
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:07:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Fender beading
- a good layer of paint
- anti corrosion tape, (very tacky and messy) ( Moss M. )
- Scotch Tape, (sounds funny but makes sense,) its a water proof
substance, non absorbent surface, cheap, it sticks where you put it, and its
transparent. Personally I think this will be my choice when the time comes.
Did I leave anything out?
Mark
> Need some general advice and patient mentoring on replacing the fender
> beading on my BN1. This will be the second time I'll be replacing it.
Having
> painted the car once already and being dissatisfied with my original color
> choice, I took fenders, et al all over again and repainted. Now I'm happy.
> But I'm facing the fender beading 'problem all over again. I was never
> totally satisfied with my first installation. In some places the curvature
> wasn't exactly perfect and in others it was 'soft,' that is, I could push
> down on it and the beading would give 1/16" or so. Not good! Plus there
was
> the smaller pieces under the headlights that didn't 'line up' precisely.
> Finally, should I use some kind of caulk between the fenders/bead/body
sheet
> metal (aluminum up front/steel along boot panel)? What technique have
> listers used to bend the tabs holding the beading in place to insure a
tight
> fit? Suppliers? Who offers the best beading available, assuming there is a
> best? Apologies in advance for the long message and many questions.
> Ron BN1
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 14:23:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Push rod and lifter problems - need help
Having rebuilt my BN7 engine a few months ago I am
still chasing a valve clearance problem. If you
recall, the valve clearances were loosening after 50
miles or so and required readjustment.
I believe that we identified the root cause of the
problem. It is the fit of the push rod lower ball end
into the cup of the lifter (cam follower). It turns
out that the size of the lifter ball is slightly
larger than the lifter cup. This was causing the push
rod to not sit firmly into the bottom of the lifter
cup and as a result the tolerances would loosen up as
the push rod "beat" itself into the lifter. You can
see the strange mating pattern when using machine die
or a Sharpie marker in the mating surfaces. Since the
lifter is softer, it is the looser here, The forged
push rods, although not perfectly round on the lower
ends appear as new.
Now the sad part...
My current engine parts were new and purchased from
AHSpares. I ordered a set of replacement parts from
Moss. They sent the push rods, but the lifters are on
back order. The push rods that arrived, looked just
like the forged push rods that I currently have. The
machined lower ends are again not perfectly round.
I checked the new push rods with one of my old lifters
and it sits even higher in the cup. There is probably
a .030 gap between the center of the cup and the
bottom of the pushrod. So it is no better. The
suppose that another test will be when the new lifters
arrive, but I don't have any confidence that these new
parts will be any better.
AHSpares and Moss say they have never had a complain.
I need the advise of the list here. Solving the
problem by getting the right parts would seem to be
the right solution, but I appear to be going to the
same source through a different vendor.
Point me straight!
Dean BN7
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:27:34 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
<< A spin-on oil filter conversion, of course, if you don't already
have one, >>
You can see what they look like at <A HREF="www.dunritetool.com">Dun Rite
Tool</A>.
You may want to upgrade to an alternator for more amps. There is a blade fuse
block that will fit where the old block is. It is two blocks that snap
together for 10 fuses.
If you go to driving lights use a relay switch.
Don
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From N0040 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:14:27 EST
Subject: Re: Parking stickers
At the hardware store, find "Goof Off" or "Goop Off" which can take gum,
grease, gummy residue, sticker, etc off most items and not destroy item
underneath.
Any good solvent (mineral spirts or acetone) should soften the glue to be
able to scrape off with non-metal scraper. Then use fine steel wool (#0000)
with solvent poured in to get the last of it off. It will also shine your
chromed bumper.
Regards,
Bob - BJ8
Milford, MI
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:14:38 EST
Subject: replacing a radio/grounding
Bill
'67 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:13:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Push rod and lifter problems - need help
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:26:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Parking stickers
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 1:34 PM
Subject: Parking stickers
There's three layers of SanFrancisco parking stickers on the rear bumper of
our BJ8 and I'd love to get rid of them. Any suggestions on what to use
and
not take off the chrome? The last one was put on 1990. Thanks in
advance
John Trifari 1955 BN1/1966 BJ8
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:29:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Parking stickers
> There's three layers of SanFrancisco parking stickers on the rear bumper of
> our BJ8 and I'd love to get rid of them. Any suggestions on what to use and
> not take off the chrome?
The real trick is to do this when your wife will be gone for a couple of hours.
Use her hair dryer on low to medium heat. Take your time and resist the urge to
scrape the stickers w/ a razor blade too early. When things get really gummy,
they can be scraped off carefully. Use some sort of adhesive remover to clean
up
the gunk left and you'll be in like a burglar.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:20:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Push rod and lifter problems - need help
Dean
--- Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net> wrote:
> dean,
> if you still have your original lifters, why not
> have them resurfaced and hardened and use your
> original pushrods, if not bent.
> jerry
Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards.
http://movies.yahoo.com/
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:26:08 EST
Subject: Re: BT7 Driver Mods Project List
> upgraded headlights if you drive at night.
Strongly agree -- nothing fancy needed, just go to your local Napa/Kragen/Pep
Boys and buy a set of halogen headlights. Big difference for those evenings
when you violate Joe Lucas's precept that "gentlemen don't go motoring about
at night."
Cheers
Gary
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:33:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Suspension upgrade
For sure it will put more stress on the chassis as already noted, and since
the A-H is already a Flexi-Flyer......
That said, you want to limit body roll effects to <2deg camber change to
keep the tires ~planted, so a stiffer bar may be required (my '62 needed a
larger one, but I don't remember what diameter I settled on), and adding a
rear bar will allow fine tuning the balance back to a uniform front/rear
roll stiffness.
To keep bar size reasonable I decreased camber a bit, and increased roll
stiffness with slightly heavier weight oil in the shocks and helper springs
in the rear. It rode rougher, but all things considered it was a good
tradeoff since back then there was lots of smooth roads with little traffic
and fewer police. :^)
In today's 'burb traffic, I would probably limit the changes to
camber/caster/toe for improved turn in.
GM
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:48:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Parking stickers
I bought a laser printer from a company auction and NO amount of steel wool
scrubbing, alcohol, etc., etc., would remove the company asset sticker and
accompanying gum. The solution?
Good old WD-40. Sticker practically slid off and ALL of the gum was easily
wiped away, which was especially impressive since this was a matted (not
glossy) plastic finish, almost porous.
Better living through chemistry,
Jim, '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
To: "John" <john4@attbi.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: Parking stickers
> John wrote:
>
> > There's three layers of SanFrancisco parking stickers on the rear bumper
of
> > our BJ8 and I'd love to get rid of them. Any suggestions on what to use
and
> > not take off the chrome?
>
> The real trick is to do this when your wife will be gone for a couple of
hours.
> Use her hair dryer on low to medium heat. Take your time and resist the
urge to
> scrape the stickers w/ a razor blade too early. When things get really
gummy,
> they can be scraped off carefully. Use some sort of adhesive remover to
clean up
> the gunk left and you'll be in like a burglar.
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:59:27 EST
Subject: Re: replacing a radio/grounding
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:21:08 EST
Subject: Team Healey Hits the Road
How was the Endurance Rally?
-jw-
3/21/02 6:45:14 PM Eastern Standard Time
Just an FYI, Bob Brown and I will be competing this weekend in the MG
Endurance Rally in St. Louis. We have the dubious honor of driving the first
Healey in the event. He and I will be driving his 1962 BT7.
Rounding out Team Healey is a fellow Club member and his friend championing
his squire body AH Sprite.
The rally is a TSD event open to old British cars (I think 1975 or older).
Each team is responsible for planning their own routes to 16 landmarks around
the state of Missouri taking pictures of them and their car as evidence. The
event has a time limit of 20 hours and covers a little less than 1,000 miles.
The team returning to the finish line with the least miles in the time
allotted wins.
Wish us luck and if you happen to be in Missouri this weekend and see a
non-Healey British car on the road, please do us a favor. Pull in front of
them and slow them down as best you can ;-)
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Join us for Springthing 2002. May 16-19 in Corydon, IN. Visit the web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> for a preview
and registration information.
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:41:52 EST
Subject: Erika the Red on T.V.
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From "Michael Couch" <couchma at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:07:16 -0500
Subject: Box Healey (Mark IV) Rear End
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From "Bradley H. Simmons" <email at bighealeys.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:14:39 -0600
Subject: 100-4 VIN Translation
Kindest Regards,
Bradley H. Simmons
BN6, BN1(inbound)
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:25:10 EST
Subject: Re: Team Healey Hits the Road
<< How was the Endurance Rally? >>
These Guys have a new use for the electric hand dryers in the rest room.
May be they will let everyone know.
Don
NTAHC
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 02:27:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Healey FAQ?
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:12:21 EST
Subject: Re: Team Healey Hits the Road
An Endurance Rally is something that everyone should
try. We had no mechanical problems in our 20.5 hours
and 860 some miles. We did make a serious map error in
choosing our route to the 16 sites required, thus we
failed to visit one site due to time limitations.
Carlos was amazed that he was able to ford 3 streams on
one leg that he was behind the wheel. We did try to
use all available roads to reduce mileage but gave up
on the unpaved ones once we realized our map error.
The winners did all 16 sites in about 760 miles in just
under 20 hours.
We will probably try it again next year.
Our only serious problem occur on the 350 mile drive
home from St. Louis. We encountered snow and rain
north of Springfield. After about an hour of wet
weather driving I cracked a distrributor cap and had no
spare. (I cracked a cap last October also when driving
in the rain for over an hour). Acualy the crack may
have been there before the failure but just showed up
because of the wet driving. We dried out the cap
using a restroom hand-dryer, wrapped in electrical
tape and off we went. Took two tries to get it right
but we made it well over 100 miles in that state.
Bob
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:20:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Push rod and lifter problems - need help
When I rebuilt my BJ8 motor, I used my old pushrods
with new lifters I sourced from AH spares, just like
you. I have had no problems whatsoever. 60K+ miles
later (& 13 years)the valve/rocker clearance hasn't
changed one micron.
My experience with AH Spares service has always been
very good. I suggest to you that you send them one of
your push rods and all of the defective lifters back
to them and ask them to replace all of your lifters
with properly fitted ones at no cost. I've done this
in the past with them and they have ALWAYS strived to
fix the problem for me.
If this fails, you can try www.cape-international.com
, but I have a feeling that AHSpares will get it
sorted for you.
By The Way - if you are ordering Healey spares from
Moss, you should ALWAYS order them directly from
www.britishcarspecialists.com - they honor all Moss
pricing, and the guys on the phone all have YEARS of
Healey knowledge under their belt.....particularly the
owner, David Nock. They also carry more consistent
stock of Healey parts than moss itself....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Perhaps the wisdom of the list can lift my spirits.
>
> Having rebuilt my BN7 engine a few months ago I am
> still chasing a valve clearance problem. If you
> recall, the valve clearances were loosening after 50
> miles or so and required readjustment.
>
> I believe that we identified the root cause of the
> problem. It is the fit of the push rod lower ball
> end
> into the cup of the lifter (cam follower). It turns
> out that the size of the lifter ball is slightly
> larger than the lifter cup. This was causing the
> push
> rod to not sit firmly into the bottom of the lifter
> cup and as a result the tolerances would loosen up
> as
> the push rod "beat" itself into the lifter. You can
> see the strange mating pattern when using machine
> die
> or a Sharpie marker in the mating surfaces. Since
> the
> lifter is softer, it is the looser here, The forged
> push rods, although not perfectly round on the lower
> ends appear as new.
>
> Now the sad part...
>
> My current engine parts were new and purchased from
> AHSpares. I ordered a set of replacement parts from
> Moss. They sent the push rods, but the lifters are
> on
> back order. The push rods that arrived, looked just
> like the forged push rods that I currently have. The
> machined lower ends are again not perfectly round.
>
> I checked the new push rods with one of my old
> lifters
> and it sits even higher in the cup. There is
> probably
> a .030 gap between the center of the cup and the
> bottom of the pushrod. So it is no better. The
> suppose that another test will be when the new
> lifters
> arrive, but I don't have any confidence that these
> new
> parts will be any better.
>
> AHSpares and Moss say they have never had a
> complain.
> I need the advise of the list here. Solving the
> problem by getting the right parts would seem to be
> the right solution, but I appear to be going to the
> same source through a different vendor.
>
> Point me straight!
>
> Dean BN7
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:27:25 EST
Subject: Re: 100-4 VIN Translation
<< The car is a 1954 model and the VIN is 18213553M; I do not see a reference
to that VIN in my Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide. Any insight as to the
specific production date, etc. would be most appreciated. >>
Bradley,
What has been listed as the Vin No. is actually the engine number and is
1B213553M. Notice that the second number, the 8, should actually be a letter
B. From this engine number this car was most likely built in the summer of
'54, possibly June or July and I would interpolate that the actual Vin
(Chassis) No. should be in the 157XXX to 159XXX range, but this is just a
SWAG.
You might also check on the right side of the engine bay firewall for the
small rectangular metal plate with the Batch/Body numbers. The second
number, the body number, will probably be in the range from 3500 to 4500.
This of course is all a moot point if the engine quoted in this number was
transplanted to another car, and I has seen a couple of BN2s with an engine
number in this range installed in them.
Bottom line, I would inquire further into the history of this car.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From ryoung at oro.net (Rich)
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:19:00 -0800
Subject: re: BT7 driver mods
Editor Gary - Thank you for your comments re your OD. Your experience
equates to a desireable result so far as I'm concerned. Lower revs at
highway speeds while in OD but no change while in "normal" would work well
for me. Many thanks for your reply.
Best regards,
Rich Young
'60 BT7
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From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 23:34:08 -0600
Subject: Gone
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:48:23 -0600
Subject: Cancelling Trafficators
I know this has been covered before but I'm having trouble making my turn
signal cancel. Any quick fixes?
Don
BN7
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:51:45 -0800
Subject: Re: May
Yes the All British Field Meet at Van Duesen Gardens in Vancouver is on
the docket. I will advise that some of us may want to peruse the cars,
then take off for other touring opportunities as I will be more or less
"stuck" with the car for the lion's share of the day. I relish the idea
of just blabbing with the other geezers about the finer points of all
this, but to others it can get boring and fast. (I must say the "r" word
here.) It could rain as summer is not in place by mid-May here.
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:56:51 -0800
Subject: Tri-carb cars
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:03:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Cancelling Trafficators
Anything I left out?
Mark
> Hey Guys:
>
> I know this has been covered before but I'm having trouble making my turn
> signal cancel. Any quick fixes?
>
> Don
> BN7
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FROM: Gary Martinet <gmartinet at cfl.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:42:19 -0500 (EST)
SUBJECT: The time was the summer.
A dogmatic and narrow-minded Lt. Herbert Sobel commanded their unit, known as
Easy Company of the 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment. Sobel was a clothing
salesman, not particularly athletic and was the first man assigned to Easy
Company.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of diverse.bat]
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of band of brothers.doc]
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:01:52 -0700
Subject: RE: What kind of shop am I looking for?
Have you tried any other sources? If what you want is available, I
sure wouldn't try to have them made. Having one or two parts custom-made
can get REAL spendy ---
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Wedeln [mailto:rotary@iname.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 12:10 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: What kind of shop am I looking for?
Guys,
I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I work behind a desk
pushing paper so I don't know where to go.
I am looking to have a couple bumper brackets/outriders made for me from
some plans someone here sent me. This is for the rear of the car and will
be used in conjunction with Sprite bumperettes.
I thought of ordering a pair from Cape International until I heard from a
couple owners who have had problems with them, so I thought if I could get
someone local to make them for me, I'd be all set.
Only problem I have is what type of shop do I have do this kind of work
and how much would I expect to pay?
--
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 07:27:14 -0800
Subject: FW: Suspension upgrade
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From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:09:31 -0600
Subject: Re: [bluegrassclub] Re: Team Healey Hits the Road
It was a lot of fun. Bob provided a good overview. I'll put up on the web a
good story with some great pictures today or tomorrow. I'll let you know when
it's there.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
----- Original Message -----
From: blkbt7@aol.com
To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com ; healeys@autox.team.net ;
bluegrassclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 9:12 PM
Subject: [bluegrassclub] Re: Team Healey Hits the Road
Jim,
An Endurance Rally is something that everyone should
try. We had no mechanical problems in our 20.5 hours
and 860 some miles. We did make a serious map error in
choosing our route to the 16 sites required, thus we
failed to visit one site due to time limitations.
Carlos was amazed that he was able to ford 3 streams on
one leg that he was behind the wheel. We did try to
use all available roads to reduce mileage but gave up
on the unpaved ones once we realized our map error.
The winners did all 16 sites in about 760 miles in just
under 20 hours.
We will probably try it again next year.
Our only serious problem occur on the 350 mile drive
home from St. Louis. We encountered snow and rain
north of Springfield. After about an hour of wet
weather driving I cracked a distrributor cap and had no
spare. (I cracked a cap last October also when driving
in the rain for over an hour). Acualy the crack may
have been there before the failure but just showed up
because of the wet driving. We dried out the cap
using a restroom hand-dryer, wrapped in electrical
tape and off we went. Took two tries to get it right
but we made it well over 100 miles in that state.
Bob
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Register now for Springthing 2002. Visit www.springthing.info
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club Meetings are held on the fourth Tuesday of the
month at TGI Friday's, Linn Station Road. Meeting starts at seven PM. See the
club web site at Bluegrassclub.com for a map and directions.
To change your mail list account status contact
information@bluegrassclub.com or visit the Bluegrass Club Mail List page at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bluegrassclub
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:45:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Canceling Trafficators
There are 2 possibilities. First the bad one: There are 2 small
articulated pieces inside the unit. The bottom tips of these stick out of
the main housing. These tips swing out of the way as you turn the wheel
and they pass over the "bump" in the metal piece which is stationary, but
part of the trafficator, just below the bakalite housing. When the wheel
is turned in the opposite direction, the articulated piece locks up, hits
the bump, gets pushed up, and cancels the turn signal. If one, or both, of
these little pieces is broken or missing, it won't cancel. These pieces
are hard to come by.
Second, the easy one: If just pushing up slightly so the bump makes better
contact w/ these articulated pieces makes the unit cancel, just bend the
piece w/ the bump up a little.
Good luck!
John Snyder
----------
> From: Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Cancelling Trafficators
> Date: Thursday, March 28, 2002 7:48 AM
>
> Hey Guys:
>
> I know this has been covered before but I'm having trouble making my turn
> signal cancel. Any quick fixes?
>
> Don
> BN7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:11:00 +0000
Subject: Re: replacing a radio/grounding
You can do what I have just done - buy a small (45mm cube) polarity
converter from Antique Automobile Radio Inc * (via a UK dealer in my
case). Neg 12v in, pos 12v out.
Done in 10 mins. Beats converting the car to negative earth, in my view,
unless you have other reasons to move to a neg-earth car.
* http://www.antiqueautomobileradio.com/
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:27:18 +0000
Subject: Re: 100-4 VIN Translation
The number is likely to be 1B 213553M.
Somebody has misread the B for an 8
This is also likely to be an engine number not a chassis number. However
these are, at this age, usually the same.
It is likely that the car is chassis number BN1 213553. If so it would
have been built at the end of August 1954 or the beginning of September
1954.
We do not have a record of this car on our Register
All the best
>I have purchased a 100-4 from a gentlemen that has yet to be delivered.
>The car is a 1954 model and the VIN is 18213553M; I do not see a
>reference to that VIN in my Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide. Any
>insight as to the specific production date, etc. would be most
>appreciated.
>
>Kindest Regards,
>
>Bradley H. Simmons
>BN6, BN1(inbound)
>
--
John Harper
100 Register Secretary
AHC UK
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:34:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Canceling Trafficators
Be very careful not to lose tiny parts as you disassemble! The tiny
springs can spew things around right when you least expect it. Other than
that it's basically the usual: disassemble, figure out how it works, clean
things up, lubricate, and re-assemble. Except for damaged parts, of course.
I've been known to use good ol' JB Weld to build up broken bakelite pieces.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Yarber [mailto:donyarber@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 8:48 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Cancelling Trafficators
Hey Guys:
I know this has been covered before but I'm having trouble making my turn
signal cancel. Any quick fixes?
Don
BN7
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:00:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Fender beading
a) Cauked the whole length of the fender (the bodyshop had put some
caulk that they got obviousely in tape form, maybe that anti-coorosin
tape that Mark is mentionning)
b) Stuck the beading into the caulk with straight tabs (beading
originnally form AH-spares)
c) Put all fender bolts lightly
d) Tightened the bolt one by one while pulling hard on the tabs. I
think the rear-most one in not reacheable and you just have to press
the beading from the top before tightening.
e) Bent the tabs where convenient
Hope it helps
Francois
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:21:23 +0000
Subject: Is my fuel pump older than my car?
I'm converting the pump to electronic control. The coil leads are both
sleeved black. The Burlen/SU instructions say the 'late' pumps have the
coils wires sleeved red and black; the early ones both black. Now, is
this 'early' measured in Healey years or Burlen/SU years? Is it that
1967 is 'early' in this context, or do I have a pump that is older than
my car?
The pump body is marked 'AUB662-1' - a part number that doesn't seem to
exist in the Burlen/SU catalogue.
Some pix here might help the detectives amongst you:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/Healey/
If I do have an older pump I will reconsider whether to convert it to
electronic control, or update the whole pump.
Thanks in anticipation of any help from those wiser in these matters
than I!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:42:35 +0000
Subject: Re: Cancelling Trafficators
Please help. It is 65 degrees and sunny and my Healey
is broken!
--Michael Williams
'55 BN1
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 22:55:16 +0000
Subject: Is my fuel pump older than my car? Web site correction
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Sorry if anyone has wasted time trying to access this.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm at hotmail.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 23:15:33 +0000
Subject: HELP REQUESTED - early BNI rear brakes
I recently discovered a very bad thing when I inspected my rebuilt spiral
bevel rear axle and brake bits and pieces which have been stored away for
several years. I am missing 1 of the 4 case-hardened adjuster links and have
come to conclusion that I'm not likely to find it. (A household move has
taken place since I last saw it). The links are depicted in the original
SERIES BN1 Service manual, July 1954, publication No.997 on page M/5 as
items 24 and 27. These parts are not identical due to the geometry of the
adjuster wedge and the brake shoe profiles.
I am hoping that someone can provide me with the part number for the links.
It gets somewhat confusing due to fact that item 24 is on the bottom on the
right side and on the top on the left side. Once the missing part is
identified I am also hoping that I can find a source of purchase.
Thank you in advance.
regards Gary
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 18:34:44 -0500
Subject: Fw: Healey 50th Anniversary at Road America Sept. 20-22
This promises to be a great event for all big Healey enthusiasts whether
racers or not. I raced and schmoozed with these midwest guys at Road
America a couple years ago, and I can tell you first hand....a wonderful
bunch of guys, and one remarkable race track.
Its a long tow from CT, but I'm already making plans to make this one. I
like Brian's idea of an all-Healey grid. Remember the 1990 Healey
Challenge? Be there!
Jim
BN1 #102
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Mertz" <bmertz@cox.net>
To: <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 1:15 PM
Subject: Healey 50th Anniversary at Road America x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
> Austin-Healey 100/3000 racers, mark your calendars and make travel plans
> for the Elkhart Lake Vintage Fall Festival at Road America, Wis., Sept.
> 20-22, where our cars will be the featured marque. (Sprites are
> welcome, of course. But hey, this is OUR year.)
>
> Observe the "big" Healey's 50th anniversary with tons of track time in
> three days of racing on one of the world's great circuits -- four miles
> of famous corners, three looooong straights (one's a little "kinky"),
> and spectacular scenery in Wisconsin's kettle moraine country.
>
> This anniversary event will attract racers from Connecticut to
> California, joining the half-dozen Big Healey enthusiasts who run the
> full VSCDA schedule every year.
>
> With sufficient early interest, we might even pull together an
> all-Healey grid. Contact me for information if you're interested.
>
> Brian Mertz
> bmertz@cox.net
> '57 A-H 100-Six #88
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:42:59 +0000
Subject: Re: replacing a radio/grounding
Done in 10 mins. Beats converting the car to negative earth, in my view,
unless you have other reasons to move to a neg-earth car.
* http://www.antiqueautomobileradio.com/
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 19:38:10 -0500
Subject: Red Line Gearbox Oil
A number of you recommended using MTL, but reading the descriptions on the
web site, it looks like MT-90 would have a viscosity nearer the original
specification. Why did you choose MTL?
Thanks,
Andy
BJ8
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:23:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Red Line Gearbox Oil
The MTL (75W/80W) is closer in viscosity spec than the MT90.(75W90) The
manufacturers spec for the gearbox o/d unit is 10-30 wt. motor oil.
Either product will work fine - they both have the same chemistry.
Earl Kagna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Phillips" <AndyP@cylogix.com>
To: "Healey-List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 4:38 PM
Subject: Red Line Gearbox Oil
For Listers using Red Line gear oil:
A number of you recommended using MTL, but reading the descriptions on the
web site, it looks like MT-90 would have a viscosity nearer the original
specification. Why did you choose MTL?
Thanks,
Andy
BJ8
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:49:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Cancelling Trafficators
I had my trafficator out for the same reason recently (turns out the
bakelite block that guides the articulated pins had broken, I was
unable to repair using JBWeld).
Anyway, you can do this without pulling the stator tube. There is
a set screw on the steering wheel hub--loosen it and the whole
trafficator can be withdrawn. There should be enough slack in the
wiring harness to pull the hub out 8 inches or so. You'll probably
have to pull the front right wheel so you can feed some wire through
the stator tube. Then you can dissassemble the hub enough to get to
the wiring terminals. This involves rotating the assembly just so that 3
(I think) set screws can be accessed. Make note of the terminal/wire
layout and disconnect the wires. From there you can finish dissassembling
the trafficator. Be careful, there are many small parts that can fall out and
be easily lost.
Study the trafficator. It'll seem baffling at first, but with a little
scrutiny the functioning will become apparent. They are actually
simple in operation and rather clever.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> To follow up on my earlier query: It appears I must
> remove the stator tube (or at least release it so that
> it can be pulled out far enough to gain access to the
> back of the plate) to get this mess sorted out. Am I
> right? If so, how is this done? Does it release at the
> steering box? Will I have to remove the grill?
>
> Please help. It is 65 degrees and sunny and my Healey
> is broken!
>
> --Michael Williams
> '55 BN1
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 17:56:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Is my fuel pump older than my car?
That pump appears to have a capacitor (condenser) instead of the
diode the later pumps had. The wiring from the coil appears to be
heavier (smaller gauge), with a thicker sleeve than any I've seen on
several pumps.
Otherwise, it looks like a BJ8 pump, and if it's been working I
would convert it (unless you're a stickler for originality). Please let me
know how the conversion works for you.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> My car is a 1967 BJ8.
>
> I'm converting the pump to electronic control. The coil leads are both
> sleeved black. The Burlen/SU instructions say the 'late' pumps have the
> coils wires sleeved red and black; the early ones both black. Now, is
> this 'early' measured in Healey years or Burlen/SU years? Is it that
> 1967 is 'early' in this context, or do I have a pump that is older than
> my car?
>
> The pump body is marked 'AUB662-1' - a part number that doesn't seem to
> exist in the Burlen/SU catalogue.
>
> Some pix here might help the detectives amongst you:
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/Healey/
>
> If I do have an older pump I will reconsider whether to convert it to
> electronic control, or update the whole pump.
>
> Thanks in anticipation of any help from those wiser in these matters
> than I!
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Len and Dorothy Kirby <l-dkirby at shaw.ca>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:03:42 -0800
Subject: K&N Air filters
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 21:33:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Cancelling Trafficators
Unless, of course, you have an RHD car.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Michael,
>
> I had my trafficator out for the same reason recently (turns out the
> bakelite block that guides the articulated pins had broken, I was
> unable to repair using JBWeld).
>
> Anyway, you can do this without pulling the stator tube. There is
> a set screw on the steering wheel hub--loosen it and the whole
> trafficator can be withdrawn. There should be enough slack in the
> wiring harness to pull the hub out 8 inches or so. You'll probably
> have to pull the front right wheel so you can feed some wire through
> the stator tube. Then you can dissassemble the hub enough to get to
> the wiring terminals. This involves rotating the assembly just so that 3
> (I think) set screws can be accessed. Make note of the terminal/wire
> layout and disconnect the wires. From there you can finish dissassembling
> the trafficator. Be careful, there are many small parts that can fall out
>and
> be easily lost.
>
> Study the trafficator. It'll seem baffling at first, but with a little
> scrutiny the functioning will become apparent. They are actually
> simple in operation and rather clever.
>
> Bob
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From Ananax3 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 02:01:10 EST
Subject: Healey engine or small block V8?
A few years ago, we purchased a basically rust free 1960 BN7 installed in
which is a very tired 1972 Ford Capri V6/trans. It's been sitting on blocks
but now its time to begin the restoration process.
1. Should I attempt to find a complete 29D and rebuild it, thereafter adding
a "Smitty" adaptor housing and an SR-5 5-speed transmission?
- Sources for the motor?
- Cost?
- Rebuilding costs?
- Is there a source for dash instruments? Most of mine were changed
to accommodate the Capri motor.
2. Should I install a crate motor (Ford 302 or Chevy 350) with either an
automatic transmission - (for my wife) or an appropriate manual transmission?
- Are there ready made engine mounts and transmission mounts or must
they be fabricated?
- Will these engines fit without chopping out the foot boxes?
- Will the stock differential and axles take the torque/power of a
V8?
Are there any specialized web sites for modified Healeys?
Should I go for the original configuration? I restored a TR3A featured in
"Original Triumph TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR3B" (the yellow one). Now I feel the
need for speed.
Please help me decide. Original or modified?
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 07:45:24 -0800
Subject: Fwd: Healey 50th Anniversary at Road America
>Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:15:16 -0800
>From: Brian Mertz <bmertz@cox.net>
>To: "vintage-race@autox.team.net" <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Healey 50th Anniversary at Road America
>
>Austin-Healey 100/3000 racers, mark your calendars and make travel plans
>for the Elkhart Lake Vintage Fall Festival at Road America, Wis., Sept.
>20-22, where our cars will be the featured marque. (Sprites are
>welcome, of course. But hey, this is OUR year.)
>
>Observe the "big" Healey's 50th anniversary with tons of track time in
>three days of racing on one of the world's great circuits -- four miles
>of famous corners, three looooong straights (one's a little "kinky"),
>and spectacular scenery in Wisconsin's kettle moraine country.
>
>This anniversary event will attract racers from Connecticut to
>California, joining the half-dozen Big Healey enthusiasts who run the
>full VSCDA schedule every year.
>
>With sufficient early interest, we might even pull together an
>all-Healey grid. Contact me for information if you're interested.
>
>Brian Mertz
>bmertz@cox.net
>'57 A-H 100-Six #88
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, CA
http://rsnover.home.netcom.com/
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:01:20 -0800
Subject: Fw: Red Line Gearbox Oil
There always has been a lot of controversy among enthusiasts as to which oil
to use in the cars. The factory manual definitely specifies the same oil in
the engine and trans o/d - check it out - different weights for different
conditions (10 -30, 10 - 40, 20 -50, etc etc).
I know many Healey people that use non-detergent in the gearbox and feel
that it does the best job - you have not been mistaken, although the factory
preferred a multi-grade.
I don't think anyone is all that wrong. The key is, whatever you decide to
use, keep it topped up, be wary of additives (because of the cone clutch),
and change it often!
I can remember sitting in a bar at a meet with Donald himself discussing
which oil was best to use in a Healey. Of course, everyone had a strong
opinion, everyone thought he knew best. Eventually everyone at the table
finally shut up, and someone thought to put the question to Donald.
His answer - "use the cheapest and change it often"! Shut us down right
quickly!
FWIW: Over the years I have experimented with all kinds of oils in the
gearbox. I wound up using whatever I put in the engine - usually 20/ 50 -
for many years until the discovery of the Red Line product, which I found
actually made a noteable difference.
'To each his own'
Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 4:31 AM
Subject: Re: Red Line Gearbox Oil
10 - 30? I was always told to use 30 wt non-detergent. That's what I have
used all along--except once I put in 40 wt ND.
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 29, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Red Line Gearbox Oil
>Andy:
>
>The MTL (75W/80W) is closer in viscosity spec than the MT90.(75W90) The
>manufacturers spec for the gearbox o/d unit is 10-30 wt. motor oil.
>
>Either product will work fine - they both have the same chemistry.
>
>Earl Kagna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andy Phillips" <AndyP@cylogix.com>
>To: "Healey-List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 4:38 PM
>Subject: Red Line Gearbox Oil
>
>
>For Listers using Red Line gear oil:
>
>A number of you recommended using MTL, but reading the descriptions on the
>web site, it looks like MT-90 would have a viscosity nearer the original
>specification. Why did you choose MTL?
>
>Thanks,
>Andy
>BJ8
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 12:09:42 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Red Line Gearbox Oil
> His answer - "use the cheapest and change it often"! Shut us down right
> quickly!
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 12:46:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Red Line Gearbox Oil
GM
----- Original Message -----
Donald told him they
> just put on enough paint to cover the primer. I think Donald liked to
shock
> his audience.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 17:59:37 +0000
Subject: 100-4 VIN Translation - Apology
Chassis number 213553 is BEFORE 219000 so the engine and chassis number
will NOT be the same.
However I believe that we are still dealing with an engine number; not a
chassis number. Therefore an engine with this number would have been
fitted to a 100 with a chassis number around 156xxx, built around the
end of May 1954. We cannot be more precise than this because there is
quite a considerable stagger in engine numbers around this time.
Just to give an idea the following is a list of engine numbers in
chassis number order taken over a two or three week period around the
end of May 1954
1B 213518
1B 213430
1B 221873
1B 213630
1B 213579
1B 213814
1B 122461
1B 214006M
Sorry about the mistake
All the best
The number is likely to be 1B 213553M.
Somebody has misread the B for an 8
This is also likely to be an engine number not a chassis number. However
these are, at this age, usually the same.
It is likely that the car is chassis number BN1 213553. If so it would
have been built at the end of August 1954 or the beginning of September
1954.
We do not have a record of this car on our Register
All the best
>I have purchased a 100-4 from a gentlemen that has yet to be delivered.
>The car is a 1954 model and the VIN is 18213553M; I do not see a
>reference to that VIN in my Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide. Any
>insight as to the specific production date, etc. would be most
>appreciated.
>
>Kindest Regards,
>
>Bradley H. Simmons
>BN6, BN1(inbound)
>
--
John Harper
100 Register Secretary
AHC UK
--
John Harper
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 16:56:29 -0500
Subject: Engine I.D. Tags
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 17:57:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine I.D. Tags
Hi Ed,
This is interesting as it implies that some tags were not painted along
with the engine block at the factory!
Scot
'66 BJ8
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From "Barry Fahlstedt" <barf at olypen.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 15:50:49 -0800
Subject: License Plate Mounting
Barry
BJ7
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 19:07:32 EST
Subject: Re: License Plate Mounting
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 20:00:34 EST
Subject: Nash-Healey Sighting
Rick
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 20:14:34 EST
Subject: Re: Healey engine or small block V8?
Rick
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From "Rick Naylor" <rick_naylor at lycos.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 20:15:13 -0500
Subject: BN2 parts for sale
--------------------
I am in the process of moving to Tucson Az. and have some stuff I wish to sell
off if a buyer is available.
Generally here is what I have:
Frount shroud -- been repaired, in need of repair.
Front suspension incl. brakes, axles, steering rods, stabilizer, lower half of
steering column.
Both front doors -- pretty rough condition.
Gas Tank
Windshield with most hardware -- not original glass.
Front springs, shocks, various brackets.
I found this car in a field and the prior owner was trying the old "stick a
chevy" in it trick. Rescued all I could, sold some and the rest is as above.
Basically I believe the entire front suspension system is among the saved items
including the limiting (rebound) bumpers.
I am interested in selling as a lot if possible.
Any interest anywhere??? Any suggestions???
Thanks
Dick Hogan
Murphys, Calif (up hwy 4 between Murphys and Arnold
(209) 728-3319
See Dave Matthews Band live or win a signed guitar
http://r.lycos.com/r/bmgfly_mail_dmb/http://win.ipromotions.com/lycos_020201/splash.asp
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From RobertH148 at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 22:43:17 EST
Subject: Re: License Plate Mounting
Bob Humphreys
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:36:04 EST
Subject: Re: License Plate Mounting
There are holes under the carpet that will originaly have a rubber plug in
them. They are located between the seat and the outer sill almost to the rear
upholetery panel.
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:21:57 -0500
Subject: Re:Early BN4 Flexoble Pipe
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:33:09 -0500
Subject: Shock tower available
As some of you may remember I am parting out this BN7 and am about to take a
load of Fe2O3 to the scrap yard. It is stripped down and the chassis is
separated from the frame. Absolutely nothing of the chassis is usable.
Nothing of the frame is usable except the left shock tower from the rear base
of the tower on the frame rail over to about half way across the cross member.
If anyone can make use of this contact me off list. You pay only shipping and
a $10 removal and handling fee.
Keith Pennell
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:59:44 -0500
Subject: Re:Trafficator
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:18:02 -0800
Subject: Tonneau stud
Thanks in advance,
John
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:42:01 -0500
Subject: Re:Parking Lamp Parts
I need either a new or excellent used parking lamp body, Lucas # 576105.
Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:30:19 -0800
Subject: Bumper stickers
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 16:44:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Bumper stickers
Bob Denton
John wrote:
> I want to thank all of you for the very positive responses I received to my
> query about removing old parking stickers from the bumper of our BJ8. I went
> down to the local Orchard Supply and got a can of Goof-Off. This loosened
> things up but did not seem to penetrate the sticker nor get underneath. So I
> poured more stuff on, let it sit overnight and the next day used an exacto
> knife to lift the stickers off. Bumper no clean. Clerk at Orchard asked what
> I was planning to do and I told him to remove old parking stickers. He said
> Goof Off was good, but C-4 worked faster. John Trifari
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:07:14 -0800
Subject: Replacement "Asbestos" and clear coat
I'm very concerned it will immediately get grungy and covered with black
fingerprints. Would like experience-based advice on whether there's a
product it can be sealed with so fingerprints can be wiped or washed off.
Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:10:26 -0800
Subject: Question re horn push-adjustable steering
Thanks in advance for any help.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:34:28 -0800
Subject: Re: Replacement "Asbestos" and clear coat
I used high-temp white paint. No problems, though I haven't worried
about cleaning it.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hello Listers,
> I recently bought a replacement for the Asbestos on my carb heat shield. It
> looks almost like drywall and is appallingly chalky-white.
>
> I'm very concerned it will immediately get grungy and covered with black
> fingerprints. Would like experience-based advice on whether there's a
> product it can be sealed with so fingerprints can be wiped or washed off.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From kenandi11 at comcast.net
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 16:36:37 -0800
Subject: Painting a Healey
I then painted the car with an Acrylic white and got the usual orange peel that
I expected. I put about 4 layers on the car. After removing the orange peel I
still had a "texture" in the paint, it looked like a rippled water effect. I
sanded more and the pattern seemed to disappear, but I am almost down to the
primer coat again.
Any comments would be helpful.
Thanks
Stephen
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 19:06:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Bumper stickers
-----Original Message-----
From: John <john4@attbi.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, March 31, 2002 4:38 PM
Subject: Bumper stickers
>I want to thank all of you for the very positive responses I received to my
>query about removing old parking stickers from the bumper of our BJ8. I
went
>down to the local Orchard Supply and got a can of Goof-Off. This loosened
>things up but did not seem to penetrate the sticker nor get underneath. So
I
>poured more stuff on, let it sit overnight and the next day used an exacto
>knife to lift the stickers off. Bumper no clean. Clerk at Orchard asked
what
>I was planning to do and I told him to remove old parking stickers. He
said
>Goof Off was good, but C-4 worked faster. John Trifari
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 16:32:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: License Plate Mounting
Get yourself the UK style front plate mount (you can
get it from www.cape-international.com or
www.ahspares.co.uk ). This unit is a bolt up unit and
can be drilled to take a US plate - it'll be a little
large, but some might think it looks "proper." That's
what I have on my BJ8 (take a look at
www.seigrist.com)
Cheers -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Barry Fahlstedt <barf@olypen.com> wrote:
> Need advice on mounting front license plate. In
> pictures it looks like holes
> have been drilled in bumper. I have a hard time
> coming to grips with this and
> don't want to lose any points.
> My Healey,a newly purchased BJ7, needs seat belts.
> Owners manual says BJ7 has
> attachment points built in. Do I need to lift
> carpet to find them?
>
> Barry
> BJ7
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 20:20:39 -0800
Subject: contact
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From "Robert C. Atkinson" <rca53 at columbia.edu>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 20:18:48 -0500
Subject: What "Year" is a Healey?
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
rca53.vcf]
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 20:47:10 EST
Subject: Re: What "Year" is a Healey?
The year on a registration, however, is immaterial. What matters in terms of
identifying the car you have is the chassis number and body number. If you
look at pars books running changes were always being made, and identified as
to when by either of these two numbers. And for sure a '66 would not bring
any more or less price than a comparable '65 or '67 as year just doesn't
matter. If it were a 4-port BN4 as opposed to a 6-port BN4, then this detail
would make a difference in value, but no that one was built in late '56/early
'57 and the other in late '57.
Roger
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 18:57:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What "Year" is a Healey?
I know exactly what you are talking about. I have a
'66 BJ8, but it most certainly would be a considered a
'65 by most healey experts, as it only has the
combined indicator/brake light set up. I believe my
car was manufactured in '65, possibly even in '64.
But alas, as was the procedure at the time, it was
sold in California in '66, and thus it is registered a
'66. I think this is all changed at Cal DMV and car
year is determined by the manufacturers, not date of
registration.....
Regards,
Alan
'55 BN1 '66 BJ8 (I think)
--- "Robert C. Atkinson" <rca53@columbia.edu> wrote:
> When a Healey is described as a '65 or a '66, for
> example, does the year
> refer to the year the car was manufactured or to the
> year it was first
> sold/first registered? I ask because the car I own
> has been registered
> in the US for as far back as I can find records as a
> "1966 Austin Healy
> 3000" yet it was manufactured in mid-1965 (according
> to chassis number
> and BMIHT certificate). What is the generally
> accepted convention for
> dating Healeys? If I were to sell it, should it be
> advertised as a '66
> (as it has been in the past, based on registration)
> or as a '65?
Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 22:21:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Painting a Healey
----- Original Message -----
From: <kenandi11@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2002 6:36 PM
Subject: Painting a Healey
> Good morning all. I have a few paint questions. I recently prepared my 62
3000 for a new paint job. I primed and sanded and primed and sanded and so
on.
>
> I then painted the car with an Acrylic white and got the usual orange peel
that I expected. I put about 4 layers on the car. After removing the orange
peel I still had a "texture" in the paint, it looked like a rippled water
effect. I sanded more and the pattern seemed to disappear, but I am almost
down to the primer coat again.
>
> Any comments would be helpful.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 22:22:53 -0500
Subject: re painting a healey
Dont know if your using laqcuer or urethane, lets asume its acrylic lacquer
since you used four coats. This paint is usually done in 4 coat shots,
since the paint is so thinned out. It is normal to wet sand lacquer in
between the 4 coats. You usually sand off about 2 coats, apply 4, sand off
2 ect. till ultra smooth and about 8-10 coats tot thickness. This is an
extreme amount of work, but when done these are the show car type finishes
folks die for. I must state I dont know what type of eqiupment your using
or how wet your applying your coats, this gets tricky with lacquer as you
run the chance of solvent pop or running the paint . Personally I like a
good wet coat, not dry or peeley. You need a fair amount of buildup in the
end product because you still have to buff out your final sand. remembering
lacquer is very soft. Buffing will eat up a coat or two also.
If a urethane is used just apply 2 more coats and sand buff , easy stuff to
use. Kep it a little on the wet side. Solvent pop rule can still apply here.
The less the peel the Better, practice makes perfect
Sorry for long wind, hope it is good advise
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations Inc.
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 22:54:28 EST
Subject: Year of Healey
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Guy Guarino" <guymark.studios@snet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 21:59:29 -0800
Subject: Three dumb questions
Thanks in advance,
John
'58 BN4
_________________________________________________________________
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