> This just keeps getting better; not for the Healey of course, but storywise.
>
> It raises a question though. What were six members of the Presidio Police
> doing on the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge in the Marin hedlands near
> Sausalito? From the Presidio to the hedlands isn't just a walk across the
> street!
Ron,
The Marin headlands, former Forts Cronkite and Baker, were part of the Army's
holdings along with the Presidio of San Francisco. Together they all now
constitute the Golden Gate National Recreation Area: probably all one police
force under the Park Service.
Back in the 60s those Army lands of the Marin headlands were open to the public
but not publicized as such. Today they are jammed, but then you could turn off
at Sausalito (Alexander Ave.- not marked as Sausalito exit now), flip around
under the Golden Gate Bridge north section then up the cliff on a road that
seemed about 50 degrees, coming out on the headlands for two or three miles
along
the bluffs above the Golden Gate Channel. Narrow, winding, beautiful and a
blast
in the Austin- no one else around but one or two fishermen on the rocks 500 feet
below (and the occasional MP patrol car- the occupants of which did not seem to
care about your speed as long as you kept your car on the road).
> The EMT did agreat job also. Airlifting the driver to Palo Alto some 30 plus
> miles south of San Francisco and the passenger went to a hospital forty
> miles east of Frisco. That's got to cost a bunch of bucks! I guess San
> Francisco is out of the hospital business.
Not just bucks but lives: there were major hospitals within 10 miles north or
south (e.g. UCSF). A lot of hospitals are out of the ER business thanks to our
solons of Congress (and a lot of doctors leaving medicine). Be careful where
you
have your heart attack.
Regards,
Pete Pollock
BJ7
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 07:26:45 -0400
Subject: RE: detaching driveline
Out cars have what are called "constant mesh" gearboxes.
When the box is in neutral and the output shaft is turned everything
inside the box except the reverse idler and the input shaft turns. This
produces plenty of lubrication for the box, assuming of course it has
oil in it, and is in fact no different a situation from when the car is
being driven normally.
And correct regarding the question of towing wire wheels backwards right
again. DON'T. They come off remarkably quickly. The patented Rudge
Whitworth self tightening system becomes the unpatented Rudge Whitworth
self loosening system.
Another point for all those folks having cars delivered to Tahoe. Be
sure to check the tightness of your wire wheel KO nuts before you use
the car. They can easily come loose in transit. Triumph issued a
bulletin on this around 1965.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of CNAArndt@aol.com
Sent: 31-May-02 10:31 PM
To: jearich@mindspring.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: detaching driveline
Hi All,
First of all I don't believe that you have to disconnect the driveshaft
on a
manual transmission car before towing it. This only applies to
automatic
transmissions and in fact a good friend of mine towed his BJ8 from Los
Angeles to Oregon and back with no problems many (about twenty?) years
ago
and the car suffered no ill effects and still runs well, however he'll
also
tell you that its not a good idea for other reasons, but that is not the
reason I'm writing.
Do I understand that Bob is recommending that a Healey, with wire wheels
and
knockoffs I have to assume, be towed with the rear wheels on a dolly
backwards!!! PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS, for in a very short number of
miles the knockoffs will come off followed by the front wheels and
you'll
find out when you hear a horrible scrapping and grinding noise from
where the
front end of your beloved Healey used to be! I hope he was just kidding
but
since I didn't see a "LOL" at the end of his statement I have to assume
that
he was serious. Folks, the knockoff arrangement is designed to tighten
as
you drive, forward, but not to be towed backwards for many hundreds of
miles.
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Rmoment at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 09:52:43 EDT
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> The theoretical reason for not hitting the knock-off with the wheel on the
> ground is due to the stress that puts on the spokes. With the wheel up in
> the air, the spokes don't take as much of a hit...as the wheel is free to
> rebound away from the blow. On the ground, the tire is held fast.
>
I do not believe this is correct. My understanding for the reason to have
the wheel off the ground is so that the tapered surfaces on the wheel hub can
seat against those on the splined driving hub. When mounted, the wheel is
actually "suspended" over the driving/axle splines by two tapered sufaces --
one on teh rear of the splined hub and the other on the inside of the KO.
The splines should only engage to provide driving or stopping force -- the
edges of the splines are not really in contact (i.e. should not be supporting
the weight of the car).
When you put a wheel on, gravity will push its hub splines down onto the
"axle" splines. When you tighten the KO, the tapered surfaces will raise
the wheel hub slightly as they seat. If there is weight on the wheel from
the car, you are having to raise the car as well.
Once seated, and driven, I would not suspect that giving a "safety" rap to
make sure the KOs are tight would require raising the car/wheel off the
ground. If the KO is quite loose, then you ought to jack up the wheel to
take the load off.
And finally, the reason KOs are so tight when you try to remove them is that
as the wheel rotates they have a natural tendency to tighten onto the hubs.
Roger
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 07:25:39 -0700
Subject: British Car Week Report
Listers,
Well, it's been a bad week for rubber. I washed the Morris this morning
and noticed that the windscreen wipers are also disolving, and they haven't
been anywhere near MBTE laced petrol. It might be age. I've owned this car
for 30 years next month and remember replacing most everything but now I'm
not sure when and the older I get, the less I am able to keep track of the
time frame.
I probably will go to Pep Boys and after they all get a big laugh (Jack has
a great sense of humour!) when I ask if these things come in any colour
than black (chrome or stainless is against the law in some places as it is
not "anti-dazzle") and they produce the lime green, flourescent pink, and
yellow jobbies with the airfoils to keep them on the glass at high speeds
or in heavy winds.
I will then go over to BAP on Sepulveda and they will tell me that they
don't handle British parts anymore except by special order and I will say,
"Dosesn't the "B" in BAP stand for British?" They will then say that the
"G" in GEON stands for GET LOST!
Then I will call Mini Mania and the wiper blades will be on backorder, so I
will go over to see Peter at Marina Motors who will adapt something from a
Land Rover in kakhi or olive drab that we will paint black. I wish I had a
time machine or knew of an interdimentional portal to go back a few decades
just to visit the parts store.
I've received a number of emails from folks who live in small towns who are
complaining about the lack of Britiron there. I fellow said that he had
half of the town's British car population IN HIS FRONT DRIVE!
You know, there is an advantage to living in a smaller town. Since I've
been driving my Morris in West Los Angeles (Venice, Santa Monica, Playa del
Rey and Marina del Rey) every day this week I have encountered the most
awful driving.
Now, my Minor is slow (948/smoothcase trans/42,000 original miles but it
has no trouble keeping up with the generally bumper to bumper traffic, BUT
other drivers are CRAZY and have no time for and no appreciation of cool
old cars - they honk and shake their fists and yell for me to get out of
their way - I've been repeatedly passed on the right in the parking lane by
huge SUVs and cut off in traffic by people on the phone in Benzes. I almost
hit one guy who wildly cut in front of me and crammed on the brakes, AS WE
APPROACHED A LINE OF STOPPED CARS WAITING FOR A RED LIGHT!!!
This is no place for an LBC - It once was a sleepy little tourist town but
it is now an enclave for type A personality entertainment execs and their
made-over trophy wives who are much more important than old guys in goofy
old cars. I might as well be trying to drive a Model T on the freeway!
A few more sightings today; A "New Bohemian" coffee hauser in a tatty
orange 71 MGB on Lincoln Blvd, A faded yellow Bugeye with a roll bar and
13" slot mags (WolfRace to you Brits) with a surfboard strapped over the
windscreen and rollbar (verrrry 1970s!)in front of a funky art/antique
store on Abbott Kinney Blvd, a blue TR7 roadster at the bank. There also
were a pair of Austin Healey 3000s that had made the pilgrimmage to see the
wizard at Peter's Marina Motors ( if you haven't guessed by now, one of the
only places in Venice that will even look at a British Car). Pete is quite
a magician - he always makes my money dissappear.
Cheers,
Rick in Venice, CA
*****************************************************
A few reports that were sent directly to me:
Well, Rick, the sightings could be like they are in my little burg...
every day this week, all I've seen is a red TR7 under a tarp (in my
yard), and what looks suspiciously like the hood of a GT6 directly in
front of the steering wheel of the car I'm driving.... <smile>
Cheers. Keep looking. (!)
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
*****************************************************
Hi Rick
Keep a stiff upper lip, old boy. In Long Beach (where I drive my '59 AH3000
EVERY DAY) this week I've seen "a few more" on the road than usual. A list
is: Jaguar 420, Jaguar Mk10, disc-wheel TR3, MGA coupe, rubber bumper MGB,
and a late chrome bumper MGB. Those that saw me waving at them waved back.
Probably new minis don't count, but I'm starting to see more of them. Funny
thing yesterday: Hispanic gang-looking kid with lip piercings and tatoos
correctly identified my car as a Healey. That was a surprise!
Thanks for all the information on LBC events, by the way...
Martin Johnson in Long Beach
*****************************************************
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 08:20:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey in San Mateo
>Original Message:
>Healey List,
>
>I am interested in a Healey for sale in San Mateo, CA. Is there anyone on
>the list nearby that might be willing to look at it for me? I live in the
>Seattle, WA area and would like to know if it is worth flying down to see
>it. Please contact me off list.
>
>Thanks,
>John
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:23:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: <fawcett1187@attbi.com>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Cc: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>; "Healey Forum"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
> Listers,
> I have a beautiful "derrington style" 120 degree slotted
> aluminum/wood steering wheel made by Moto Lita.
> Available from Gary Hodson at (913) 441-8335. Gary is in
> Kansas. When I got the sterring wheel, "Moto Lita-Made
> in France" was stamped into the center ring. When I
> bought mine, it was $195+$10 shipping and handling. I'll
> send a photo to anyone that asks.
>
> Mark Fawcett
>
>
> > The Motolita will look funky on a Healey because the
> wheel is supposed to have
> > three spokes spaced at 120 degrees and one spoke
> pointing upward so you can
> read
> > the gauges through the spokes. The cream of wheels
> for a Healey is the
> > Derrington wheel which was offered as an option. They
> are being reproduced,
> but
> > they're not cheap.
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From "Jim Hill" <jrhill at chorus.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:53:23 -0500
Subject: 100S "For Sale"
The second lists the engine number for #3801 as 1B222730, but gives no
current owner, and the third just contains a photo of the car as
"reconstructed" (for lack of a better term).
I would assume that the highest and best use of a 100S engine would be as a
replacement in a "real" 100S whose original engine had been destroyed or
long since removed. Of course, that only results in one complete car, which
conflicts with the rather unfortunate trend to take the various major parts
of one car and construct two or more "replicas". Presumably the car built by
Tom Kovaks for Dick Hansen was identified as a replica when it was sold to
whoever put it up for auction.
It's not clear from your note whether the "poor person" who bought the car
in the Barret-Jackson auction parking lot was provided with this information
. . . and it's not clear whether this is the same person who's now put the
car up for sale in Germany, describing it as a "restoration".
All very sad.
Jim Hill
Madison WI
======================
Bill Wood wrote:
>> 3801 is really just a 100S engine 1B222730 which came
>> in Alan Alfano's black and pink 100-4 from California.
>> It was removed and stored by Paul Haus and me for many years.
>> In 1989, I sold the motor to Dick Hansen in Illinois, who
>> had Tom Kovacs recreate a 100S from a 100-4 chassis.
>> When Dick sold it, it went to Barret-Jackson where I revealed
>> to Barret-Jackson of its true identity, so they threw it out of the
>> auction, but it was "sold" in the parking-lot to some poor person.
>> I suppose that "poor person" is now selling 3801 as a true 100S
>> to make his money back on some other unsuspecting buyer.
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From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 12:42:10 -0500
Subject: paint / rust removal
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From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 15:50:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Derrington Style Steering Wheels
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:53:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I have been trying to reach Gary Hodson as he was recommended by several
of
> you for me to contact regarding my ordering a Derrington Style Moto Lita
> wheel for my AH 3000 BT7. Well I finally got his wife today, I had left
> several messages, and Gary was out. Supposably she thinks he doesn't have
> any in stock and that his "source" is no longer. I will speak to him next
> weekend but wanted to ask the board if anyone knows of an alternative
source
> for these Derrington Style wheels?
> Thanks,
> Matt-
> 60 BT7
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From "Jack Feldman" <qualitas at millenicom.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:15:30 -0500
Subject: Anyone on the list live in Copenhagen?
Thanks,
Jack
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 23:34:34 +0100
Subject: Major photo feature on the Arthur Carter Collection
Published as the centre-fold in the June edition of RevCounter, it is
also featured on the web site - go to the link below and click on the
front page link.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 17:40:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Austin Healey 3000 Non-Adjustable Steering Wheels
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 19:04:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Major photo feature on the Arthur Carter Collection
Alan F Cross wrote:
> Paul Woolmer has put together a major photo feature of the 'special'
> Austin Healeys from the Arthur Carter collection, that we will be
> privileged to feature at the Thruxton race track as part of the UK's
> 50th Anniversary celebrations.
>
> Published as the centre-fold in the June edition of RevCounter, it is
> also featured on the web site - go to the link below and click on the
> front page link.
> --
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
> Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
> http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:48:07 -0700
Subject: disk studs
Sorry for so many questions lately ... using up my '02 allotment already
... but need some advice and Open Roads is approaching! The front hub
has 5 studs for attaching the brake disk. These studs have splines to
keep them from turning. I'm trying to install the studs into the new
hubs but no go. So, use a press? Oven heat the hub, cool the stud and
pound them in? Or is there a tool (broach) to make corresponding splines
in the hub? Or?
Many thanks and hail to the list,
-John
BJ7
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From JohnbS7257 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 22:14:19 EDT
Subject: Les Leston Steering Wheels
Any information would be appreciated.
John Stevens
BJ-8 Ruby
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 23:41:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Pete - Re: Healey accident
I'm definitely on the young(er) side (36), but I
definitely remember those days when you could head out
in the headlands in your healey and find a beach out
there with only 2 people on it on a crowded day. It
was only about 10 years ago it was still like that, 15
years ago it was even better. My guess is the
headlands got written up in the Lonely Planet guide
books about 10 years ago and that's probably what
caused the crush. Then again, I'm just old enough to
remember when a city fire fighter or a policeman made
enough money to buy a decent house in the city if
he/she wanted too... those days are definitely gone,
no thanks to the internet!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "P.M. Pollock" <pollpete@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> Ron Yates wrote:
>
> > This just keeps getting better; not for the Healey
> of course, but storywise.
> >
> > It raises a question though. What were six
> members of the Presidio Police
> > doing on the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge
> in the Marin hedlands near
> > Sausalito? From the Presidio to the hedlands isn't
> just a walk across the
> > street!
>
> Ron,
>
> The Marin headlands, former Forts Cronkite and
> Baker, were part of the Army's
> holdings along with the Presidio of San Francisco.
> Together they all now
> constitute the Golden Gate National Recreation Area:
> probably all one police
> force under the Park Service.
>
> Back in the 60s those Army lands of the Marin
> headlands were open to the public
> but not publicized as such. Today they are jammed,
> but then you could turn off
> at Sausalito (Alexander Ave.- not marked as
> Sausalito exit now), flip around
> under the Golden Gate Bridge north section then up
> the cliff on a road that
> seemed about 50 degrees, coming out on the headlands
> for two or three miles along
> the bluffs above the Golden Gate Channel. Narrow,
> winding, beautiful and a blast
> in the Austin- no one else around but one or two
> fishermen on the rocks 500 feet
> below (and the occasional MP patrol car- the
> occupants of which did not seem to
> care about your speed as long as you kept your car
> on the road).
>
> > The EMT did agreat job also. Airlifting the driver
> to Palo Alto some 30 plus
> > miles south of San Francisco and the passenger
> went to a hospital forty
> > miles east of Frisco. That's got to cost a bunch
> of bucks! I guess San
> > Francisco is out of the hospital business.
>
> Not just bucks but lives: there were major
> hospitals within 10 miles north or
> south (e.g. UCSF). A lot of hospitals are out of
> the ER business thanks to our
> solons of Congress (and a lot of doctors leaving
> medicine). Be careful where you
> have your heart attack.
>
> Regards,
>
> Pete Pollock
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From J & L Armour <sebring at illawarra.hotkey.net.au>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 10:31:00 +1000
Subject: Arthur Carter Collection
So let the 50th anniversary roll on.I look foward to it and will be
extremely gratefull to those hard working individuals who have taken the
time to arrange for Arthur Carter's ,Mike Darcey's and other's
collection to be on display at the same time.
Regards Joe
white one, my first car in 1966 [on hire purchase as a 17yo.] long gone
mustard one
blue one
red one
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 09:34:12 EDT
Subject: Yahoo Groups
Lately they have been a target for Spammers. If you do have a list with open
membership you will need to change the membership from open to moderated,
where you approve each member before joining and allowing to post.
My Porsche club mail list was hit by them (I'm just a member of that list)
and they upload files and send Spam to the list. This morning several of the
lists I control had the same Spammers try to join.
It is sports_gambling_pro <sports_gambling_pro@yahoo.co.uk>
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From dwflagg at juno.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 14:19:48 -0400
Subject: Re:Spacer
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 20:07:32 +0100
Subject: Another mysterious Healey picture
While at Brooklands today I met Maurice Rowe, who many of you may know
as a motorsport photographer of some note. While buying a couple of
Healey photos (Big Healeys in action in the Alps) we turned up a picture
of DMH and a Westland with the lower front right hand side wheel faring
(for Brits nearside front) torn off from the inside out to the edge, so
as to avoid the indicator lamp, starting below the radiotor grille and
ending up about six inches wide..
DMH is standing next to the car looking very dapper and happy in a
pinstripe suit. The car looks however like it might just have come off a
rally or cross country run. The location is believed to be outside the
RAC in Pall Mall. The registration plate is 219 NX - although the plates
might be trade ones.
Does anyone recognise this description of a photo they have and know of?
The photo isn't by Maurice, but the impression is that it is fairly
well-known...he actually had two copies.
Thanks in advance,
Peter Dzwig
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 20:12:53 +0100
Subject: The Triple SU experience
thank you all very much for the help and advice on the matter of triple
HD8s..there was a wide variety of experience and a good amount to dwell
on. That has left me with a lot to think about, although the concensus
seems to be that triple HD6s would be better than 8s, but that in any
case they would not be too difficult either to tune or to keep tuned. I
now need think about the options and the dynamics of the resulting car -
and to save up my pennies, I think.
Once again thank you...it's always great to ask you guys - and girls ,
there's so much experience to draw on.
Peter Dzwig
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 21:31:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Spacer
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
> Fren: dwflagg@juno.com
> Svara till: dwflagg@juno.com
> Datum: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 14:19:48 -0400
> Till: healeys@autox.team.net
> Dmne: Re:Spacer
>
> I have an aluminum spacer, 1/2" thick for a 1 3/4" SU carb. It would fit
> between the carb & air filter or stack. Any ideas what it would be used
> for? TIA.
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Doug
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 13:50:42 -0600
Subject: BN1 Hand Brake Installation
My first try at posting.
On the question of BN1 handbrake cables from Michael:
I have recently gone through this "drill". I could find no detailed
information on how to do this on the internet or in the many books that
I have. Although I did this on my BN2 I expect that the BN1 is similar.
The hand brake main lever is bolted to the drive shaft tunnel with two
through bolts which have captive nuts on the inside of the tunnel. Only
relevent because they sometimes get very loose & should be checked. On
the lower end of the main lever is a short cross shaft which extends
through the tunnel wall. On the inside of the tunnel the cross shaft has
a short spacer, the cable operating lever, & a retaining nut. This cable
operating lever has two flats on its inner hole which fit over matching
flats on the cross shaft. Again only relevent because if the inside
retaining nut gets loose the main handbrake lever will not move the
cable operating lever. I have encountered both problems.
On the lower end of the inside cable operating lever is a hole which
engages a clevis on the front end of the cable & is retained with a
short through pin which is retained by a cotter pin. Welded to the frame
is a small slotted bracket which holds the front of the short threaded
part of the cable housing. The housing is clamped to the bracket with a
nut over the threaded part of the cable housing. There is no cable
length adjustment at this end.
On to replacing the actual cable;
To get the "mess" apart;
Remove the transmission cover. Remove the front four drive shaft U joint
to tail shaft nuts, remove the four rear drive shaft to pinion flange
nuts, through the battery access opening & remove the drive shaft.
Reach in from the front of the tunnel & remove the clevis cotter pin &
the clevis pin.
Reach in through the front or back of the tunnel with a special wrench
& remove the nut on the front end of the cable housing.
Special wrench; I made a tool by heating & bending a nine sixteenths
combination open end - box end wrench, bend the open end at 90 degrees
to the main wrench, and about one inch back from the open end portion.
You should now have an L shaped wrench with a short open end on one end
& a box (ring) on the long end. Note (a crowfoot wrench attached to a
three eights socket extension might work in place of the "special"
wrench but the two parts easily separate when you don't want them to &
the crowfoot is more bulky & doesn't get to the nut as well as the special)
Reach into the tunnel with the open end of the special wrench & using a
screwdriver or some such lever in the ring end for leverage, undo the
cable housing nut one sixth of a turn at a time.
Remove the old cable & replace with the new in reverse order. Put the
rest of the parts back in reverse order.
You are finished.
Regards,
Dave Russell
1956 BN2
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 15:49:35 -0700
Subject: disk studs
> Oh mighty list,
>
> Sorry for so many questions lately ... using up my '02 allotment already
> ... but need some advice and Open Roads is approaching! The front hub
> has 5 studs for attaching the brake disk. These studs have splines to
> keep them from turning. I'm trying to install the studs into the new
> hubs but no go. So, use a press? Oven heat the hub, cool the stud and
> pound them in? Or is there a tool (broach) to make corresponding splines
> in the hub? Or?
>
> Many thanks and hail to the list,
>
> -John
> BJ7
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 19:06:31 -0400
Subject: oil leak
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 19:11:37 -0400
Subject: 3801
Probably, if the new owner did any research on 3801, he could have easily
found the truth about the car. As far as I know, no one tried to research the
car or its restoration after the auction time and sale in the parking lot.
Anyway, its a fake and always will be.
Bill Wood
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 20:00:14 -0700
Subject: The List Caps for Tahoe
Bob Denton
P.S. if you still haven't seen it, contact me off list ASAP.
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 20:59:00 EDT
Subject: naming your car
Lanny Pace
59 BT7
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 21:00:52 -0400
Subject: RE: oil leak
The most likely cause of the leakage at the valve cover plate rivets is
that they have not been correctly installed. I would suggest that you
remove the cover, thoroughly degrease the inside and then seal around
the rivets (on the inside) with gasket shellac or silicone.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of caudle1@charter.net
Sent: 2-Jun-02 7:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: oil leak
I have aprox. 3000 miles on a engine rebuild that was done just prior to
my
purchase of the car. Oil is starting to come out on the value cover top
where
the plates for "value clearance" and "Austin" is attached. Can anyone
suggest
what may be wrong? I am driving to Tahoe from the Carolinas. This is
leaving
quite a mess.
thanks Dave
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 17:38:46 -0700
Subject: Re: oil leak
Sounds like the engine re-builder likely drilled out the original blind
rivets to paint the valve cover - the usual procedure. What was used to
re-fasten the plates, likely pop rivets? which explains the leak.
Here's what I did: used stainless steel 'button head' machine screws, about
1/2" long. (cut them to the length you need, if necessary) The shape of
the head mimicks the original rivet real well.
The screw has a small socket for an allen wrench. Use silcone seal inside
the valve cover, a flat washer and a lock washer. It is vitally important
that you make sure that the nuts won't come loose and drop into the engine -
they'll really foul things up if they do! Locktite 'em. Be careful with
the silicone seal too - you don't want any blobs breaking loose and plugging
up any oil passages.
Worked real well for me. Come and say hello to the red tricarb from British
Columbia at the Tahoe meet!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb (Tahoe car)
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 4:06 PM
Subject: oil leak
I have aprox. 3000 miles on a engine rebuild that was done just prior to my
purchase of the car. Oil is starting to come out on the value cover top
where
the plates for "value clearance" and "Austin" is attached. Can anyone
suggest
what may be wrong? I am driving to Tahoe from the Carolinas. This is
leaving
quite a mess.
thanks Dave
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From Claude Vaughn <dncvaughn at yahoo.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 18:58:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey Coupe
A week or so ago I was flipping channels (wife was out
of town) and stopped on an infomercial on the Men's
Channel. It was for a stainless steel vortex
generator or something that is supposed to increase
gas mileage. I stopped at the channel because I
caught a glimpse of a familiar looking shape in the
background. There was a red coupe on a grease rack
but I couldn't tell what it was because the people
selling the snake oil vortex gen were standing in the
way. Obscuring just enough of it. It looked like the
100 coupe that DMH drove. The scene reminded me of
scenes on Home Improvement with Wilson. They leave
you wondering what Wilson's face looks like from the
upper lip down. It was maddening. The infomercial
was pretty obnoxious so I didn't stay with it too
long. Anybody else see this? Can you identify the
car? I haven't tried to look for it again.
Claude
BN2
BN7
AN5
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2002 20:31:34 -0600
Subject: Help identify carbs
Throttle bores are 1.75"
Mounting flanges are four bolt.
Float bowels are marked 3496.
Bodies are both marked AUC 6040X & hand engraved 6047 & 6053.
Manifolds are marked 1B2893 & 1B2894 (AH numbers)
Is this the AH 100M conversion or what?
Which rebuild kits do I need?
Thanks for your help,
Dave Russell
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:45:46 +1000
Subject: RE: Help identify carbs
They appear to be H6s SUs. Fitted to the 100S, 100M (& in the Le Mans kit) and
BN3s.
I may be mistaken but I think H6 SUs were also fitted to the Michellotti style
four-cylinder TR (TR4 and TR4A in this country)
The H6 is just the bigger bore version of the H4 that was original equipment.
Just tell your supplier of the type.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave & Marlene [mailto:rusd@velocitus.net]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Help identify carbs
I need help to identify the SU carbs on my recently acquired 1956 Austin
Healey BN2.
Throttle bores are 1.75"
Mounting flanges are four bolt.
Float bowels are marked 3496.
Bodies are both marked AUC 6040X & hand engraved 6047 & 6053.
Manifolds are marked 1B2893 & 1B2894 (AH numbers)
Is this the AH 100M conversion or what?
Which rebuild kits do I need?
Thanks for your help,
Dave Russell
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 22:50:32 EDT
Subject: Re: naming your car
> She will always be called LOUISE
Surely sounds like the only appropriate name to me.
Mari0n S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club-Membership Chmn. & Delegate
Concours Committee Chmn. Judges & Judging.
727/867-7129 Phone/Fax
BJ8 "Blackie"
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 00:02:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Help identify carbs
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 21:58:14 -0700
Subject: steering columns
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 22:38:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: steering columns
Non adjustable columns use a different hub/horn button
piece that both looks different and costs more to
make. In addition, with non-adjustable columns made
in much fewer quantities, there isn't the demand for
large production discounts.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- i erbs <eyera3@attbi.com> wrote:
> Just Wondering...
> Why do the non-adjustable trafficators cost so much
> more than THE ADJUSTABLE
> ones? They are more than twice as expensive to
> replace.
> Ira
> non-adjustable BT7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 22:47:30 -0700
Subject: Re: steering columns
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:51:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Major photo feature on the Arthur Carter Collection
If you read the text on the web site you will see that Paul says that he
understands some of these cars are for sale. That should make it fair!!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:28:48 -0400
Subject: Pertronix
Steve
61BN7
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:02:18 -0400
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
Thanks for the correction. I did know that the wheel is centered by the
tapers, and that the splines don't support the weight. Although I had never
thought about it that way, what you wrote makes good mechanical sense.
Dave Masucci
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rmoment@aol.com>
To: <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: K/O procedures?
> In a message dated 05/31/2002 7:58:31 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
> david_m@radiantsoundworks.com writes:
>
>
> > The theoretical reason for not hitting the knock-off with the wheel on
the
> > ground is due to the stress that puts on the spokes. With the wheel up
in
> > the air, the spokes don't take as much of a hit...as the wheel is free
to
> > rebound away from the blow. On the ground, the tire is held fast.
> >
> I do not believe this is correct. My understanding for the reason to have
> the wheel off the ground is so that the tapered surfaces on the wheel hub
can
> seat against those on the splined driving hub. When mounted, the wheel is
> actually "suspended" over the driving/axle splines by two tapered
sufaces --
> one on teh rear of the splined hub and the other on the inside of the KO.
> The splines should only engage to provide driving or stopping force -- the
> edges of the splines are not really in contact (i.e. should not be
supporting
> the weight of the car).
>
> When you put a wheel on, gravity will push its hub splines down onto the
> "axle" splines. When you tighten the KO, the tapered surfaces will raise
> the wheel hub slightly as they seat. If there is weight on the wheel from
> the car, you are having to raise the car as well.
>
> Once seated, and driven, I would not suspect that giving a "safety" rap to
> make sure the KOs are tight would require raising the car/wheel off the
> ground. If the KO is quite loose, then you ought to jack up the wheel to
> take the load off.
>
> And finally, the reason KOs are so tight when you try to remove them is
that
> as the wheel rotates they have a natural tendency to tighten onto the
hubs.
>
> Roger
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:30:27 -0600
Subject: Re: oil leak
> Dave:
>
> Sounds like the engine re-builder likely drilled out the original blind
> rivets to paint the valve cover - the usual procedure. What was used to
> re-fasten the plates, likely pop rivets? which explains the leak.
>
> Here's what I did: used stainless steel 'button head' machine screws,
about
> 1/2" long. (cut them to the length you need, if necessary) The shape of
> the head mimicks the original rivet real well.
>
> The screw has a small socket for an allen wrench. Use silcone seal inside
> the valve cover, a flat washer and a lock washer. It is vitally important
> that you make sure that the nuts won't come loose and drop into the
engine -
> they'll really foul things up if they do! Locktite 'em. Be careful with
> the silicone seal too - you don't want any blobs breaking loose and
plugging
> up any oil passages.
>
> Worked real well for me. Come and say hello to the red tricarb from
British
> Columbia at the Tahoe meet!
>
> Cheers,
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb (Tahoe car)
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <caudle1@charter.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 4:06 PM
> Subject: oil leak
>
>
> I have aprox. 3000 miles on a engine rebuild that was done just prior to
my
> purchase of the car. Oil is starting to come out on the value cover top
> where
> the plates for "value clearance" and "Austin" is attached. Can anyone
> suggest
> what may be wrong? I am driving to Tahoe from the Carolinas. This is
> leaving
> quite a mess.
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 10:09:45 -0400
Subject: RE: oil leak
This can be slightly messy but it is the only way I know to really check
for the condition of your rocker shaft. BTW the rocker shaft and bushes
should have been done during the engine rebuild.
First get he engine well warmed up 20 - 30 minutes of normal driving.
If possible park the car on a slight downhill slope to ensure that the
engine is as level as possible. You can drive the rear wheels onto a
couple of 2 x 4s to achieve the same thing.
Now remove the rocker cover.
If you car has a brake servo reconnect the vacuum line if you had to
take it off.
Start the engine and let it idle while you observe the oil flow at the
rocker shaft.
When all is well, with the oil hot, oil should dribble slowly off the
bottoms of each of the rockers at idle. It should not squirt out of the
holes on the tops of the rockers nor should it flow off the bottoms of
the rockers.
While you have it off seal the rivet holes in the cover as I mentioned
previously.
I have never seen the products from Rocker Arm Specialists, we do our
own, but I'm sure that they are quite satisfactory. The positioning of
the oil groves in the rockers is VERY IMPORTANT.
If the rocker shaft is in poor condition it is not unusual for someone
inexperienced in Healey engines to conclude that an engine rebuild is
required because oil will travel through the engine breather hose into
the rear carburetor and give very similar symptoms to worn or broken
rings on one or more of the rear 3 cylinders.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: caudle1@charter.net [mailto:caudle1@charter.net]
Sent: 3-Jun-02 9:10 AM
To: Michael Salter
Subject: Fw: oil leak
Michael,
How do I check to see if this is my problem?
Thanks Dave
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:15:23 -0700
Subject: BT7 Door Fitment - Southern California Shop Recommendation
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:15:50 -0700
Subject: BT7 Door Fitment - Southern California Shop Recommendation
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:15:56 -0700
Subject: BT7 Door Fitment - Southern California Shop Recommendation
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:17:04 -0700
Subject: BT7 Drivers Door Fitment Problems - So. Cal Repair Shop
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:18:54 -0700
Subject: e-mail issues... sorry for multiple sends
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 10:21:22 EDT
Subject: Re: oil leak
<< This can be slightly messy but it is the only way I know to really check
for the condition of your rocker shaft. >>
If you take the filler cap off and the front rocker shots oil out, then you
can assume the rest are as bad as the front one. If it does not, then go for
the full engine oil bath with the cover off.
Don
NTAHC
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 07:41:14 -0700
Subject: RE: 100S "For Sale"
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From "Robert Barback" <tippytoo at eatel.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:40:17 -0500
Subject: re: paint removal/rust Thank you
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 10:53:50 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S "For Sale"
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 15:23:13 +0000
Subject: RE: 100S "For Sale"
- Chinese Proverb
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From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:23:37 -0400
Subject: re:100S for Sale
The same is true of the 100S in question. Although clearly not an original
car, it is none the less mechanically and cosmetically identical to the real
thing. Since it was done by Forintune, I assume that it is breathtaking.
It is a valueable representative of the marque and should be valued for what
it is. Selling it as an original is something else altogether, though.
Although the point is probably moot since the materials to accurately
reproduce 100S's in any volume don't exist, this car should probably be
registered and tracked as Reconstructed or Replica. It is likely to be the
only one so registered, however.
John Cope
62BT7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:51:51 EDT
Subject: 100M--was 100S for Sale
> I have seen several 100M's for sale that are clearly prepped long after the
> dealer
> was out of business and yet they still embody the spirit of the 100M.
John--
It is important to differentiate between a BN2 "M" (factory-built) and a BN1
or BN2 "LeMans" most of which were either dealer or owner-converted, although
a few
BN1's were supposedly done at the factory for friends of DMH. You can build
up a "LeMans" today with the right parts but you cannot legitimately build up
an "M", claims to the contrary notwithstanding. It's more than just a
louvered hood....
Best--Michael Oritt (100 Lemans converted in 1957)
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:08:18 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M--was 100S for Sale
Out of curiosity, what happened to the original 3801?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:10:12 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M--was 100S for Sale
<< > I have seen several 100M's for sale that are clearly prepped long after
the
> dealer
> was out of business and yet they still embody the spirit of the 100M.
John--
It is important to differentiate between a BN2 "M" (factory-built) and a BN1
or BN2 "LeMans" most of which were either dealer or owner-converted, although
a few
BN1's were supposedly done at the factory for friends of DMH. You can build
up a "LeMans" today with the right parts but you cannot legitimately build up
an "M", claims to the contrary notwithstanding. It's more than just a
louvered hood....
Best--Michael Oritt (100 Lemans converted in 1957) >>
That is precisely his point. If they are "Le Mans" then what do you call a
100S replica (or major recintruction) it's not a factory 100S. How 'bout
"100 Sebring" ?
Rick
San Diego
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:16:24 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S "For Sale"
(For the record, I've been a long-time friend of Tom Kovacs, but we' have no
business relationship. I race with Dick Hansen)
Here's that facts as I know them. I was in Fourintune visiting a number of
times as that car was built. I also helped transport it to Dick Hansen's
when it was finished.
Tom at Fourintune and Dick Hansen refer to it as a replica. It was built
with parts bought from Bill Wood. The parts included 3801's engine, trans,
seats, steering, fuel tank, deck lid, bonnet, rear axle. The demise of the
original 3801 is unclear, but the car now in question was never represented
as anything but a replica with some of the original car's bits.
The car was not thrown out of the Barret-Jackson auction, but did fail to
make reserve. (Barrer-Jackson was aware of what it was... it was priced at
1/2 the going rate for a real S). A deal did take place in parking lot...
apparently Peter Kuprianoff (1990 Healey Challenge driver) was with the
parking lot buyer and called Kovacs to make sure buyer and seller were all
aware of all the facts. I believe the dealer involved also accurately
represented it.
I have no knowledge of whether the car is currently being represented as
"real", but the gentleman that built it (Kovacs) and the gentleman that paid
for it to be built (Hansen) have always considered it a "replica".
WST
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From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 11:30:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Arthur Carter Collection
--snip--
Joe:
Well said!
Best regards,
Fred
Red/ex-green one
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:24:52 -0400
Subject: Re: 100S "For Sale"
GM
----- Original Message -----
should be included
> in the 100S Register. Perhaps it lends too much legitimacy. Which is a
> clearer term? RECONSTRUCTION or REPLICA?
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:43:19 EDT
Subject: 100S and 100M -- Originals, etc. (long)
<< Although the point is probably moot since the materials to accurately
reproduce 100S's in any volume don't exist, this car should probably be
registered and tracked as Reconstructed or Replica. It is likely to be the
only one so registered, however. >>
Whether collector cars can be called originals, replicas, and reconstructions
is a fascinating semantic and philosophical topic, not to mention serious
legal and financial issue. If we draw examples from more expensive cars of
the same category (e.g. Jaguar C-types and D-types) then the major effort of
the registries is to establish through search of previous ownership whether a
current owner can claim an unbroken line of ownership back to the original
car produced. This assures that there are no "originals" claimed that don't
have one of the original serial numbers and that each of the original serial
numbers is claimed by only one owner. If that is the case, then it is the
"claim" that has intrinsic value in addition to the practical value of the
piece of metal on wheels that currently represents that car. And that
intrinsic value is not to be sneezed at. A C-type that is included in their
registry can be worth in the range of $1 million, give or take $200k. A
C-type that is exactly like it in all respects, having been built to the same
standards by the same company (e.g. Lynx) that restored the registry car,
isn't likely to be worth more than $150,000 -- essentially the cost of labor
and materials required to build the car.
Both will give the driver the same driving experience, but if the registered
car is lost (not crashed; these cars are never irrevocably broken) i.e.
stolen and untraceable, tucked away in some collector's garage never to see
light of day again) then the insurance claim will be $1million. If the car is
simply crashed into a tiny little ball of metal, then the claim will be
$150,000.
The issue for 100S owners, unlike that for 100M and LeMans-modified 100s, is
that a record exists of each and every car produced and there is no question
of the validity of that record. For 100M cars, there is a list of 640 BN2s
that were recorded as modified during production, but there may be as many as
600 BN1s that were modified by Healey Motor Works during production, and
there are an untold number of other BN1s and BN2s that were modified to
LeMans specs after purchase. For this reason, there is a bit of claim of
intrinsic value for the 640 recorded cars, but beyond that the premium paid
is simply for the quality of the restoration, and existence of the LeMans
modifications (even if, for example, the H6 carbs were manufactured last year
for a Triumph).
Just some thoughts for a Monday morning.
Cheers
Gary
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 09:45:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix
Solid black from Pertronix to original solid white wire.
Black/white wire from Pertronix to coil.
Original white/black wire to other side of coil.
New jumper wire from chassis ground to same side of coil as original
white/black.
BTW, I crimped on spade connectors to the Pertronix leads, so if I have to
revert to points, the original connectors are still intact.
BK
----------------
At 05:28 AM 6/3/2002, you wrote:
>Hi everyone, hope you all had a great weekend. I received my new pertronix
>ignitor and coil on Saturday and thought that I'd be relating stories on how
>great the car performed over the weekend. Well, that didn't happen. The
>instructions are kind of cryptic for the installation, and I'm looking for
>help from anyone that has had one installed. First off the car is positive
>ground and I have the correct unit. I installed it according to the
>instructions, with the black and white wire going to the negative side of
>the coil, and the black wire going to the switch wire. I reconnected the
>original white and black wire to the positive side of the coil. I now have
>2 wires connected to the brand new shiny coil. I tried to start the car,
>and although she turns over, there is no spark being generated. I know this
>because I have a timing light hooked up and it is not flashing as the engine
>turns over. There is a short piece of wire that was in the kit, but no
>instruction for it's installation. Although everything appears to be okay,
>I can't get a spark.. What am I doing wrong? TIA
>
>Steve
>61BN7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 11:00:36 -0600
Subject: Carb identity
Dave Russell
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 10:19:50 -0700
Subject: brake wheel cylinder for BT7
I usually order from Moss because they are just north and offer next
day ground delivery. However their brake cylinders for the BT7 come out
of New Jersey and take a week by ground. I can do second day air but
want to avoid the cost.
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
BT7
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:08:25 -0700
Subject: The Three R's and an O, (What if ???)
Does that make the car, Real, Replica, Reconstructed, or Original ?????
Kirk Kvam
59/60 100-6/3000 BN-7 #405 (Nasty Boy 302Ford)
A "Real" modified "Original" ????? ;-) ;-) ;-( Healey.
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:28:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re. BN1 Hand Brake Installation
....On to replacing the actual cable...
..........Reach in through the front or back of the
tunnel with a special wrench & remove the nut on the
front end of the cable housing.
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:47:22 -0700
Subject: Re: The Three R's and an O, (What if ???)
As one dark night last year at CHW, I still have occasional late night
escort services from Black Helicopters here in San Bernardino
County.
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: The Three R's and an O, (What if ???)
Kirk-
#405 is a certified Oooriginal. Not another one like it. Call it a
Kvam-Healey? Think the Kern County sheriffs are still looking for it?
Or listening for it, really?
-Roland
On Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:08:25 -0700, "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
wrote:
:: I hear tell of a "Original" G00000reen Healey, painted Reeeeeed.
::
:: Does that make the car, Real, Replica, Reconstructed, or Original ?????
::
:: Kirk Kvam
:: 59/60 100-6/3000 BN-7 #405 (Nasty Boy 302Ford)
:: A "Real" modified "Original" ????? ;-) ;-) ;-( Healey.
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:22:51 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S and 100M -- Originals, etc. (long)
I have a buddy that has a 275 short wheelbase Ferrari...( or had ) and he
was showing the only thing on the car that had any value what so ever...
and that was the Number plate.... After the number plate.... EVERY portion
of the car could be replaced.... and needed to.... as he was racing the
damn thing....
Today I have another friend who has THE original light weight Camaro of
Roger Penske and Mark Donahue.... and he races and wrecks it regularly....
( ouch ) and again the only care or concern is for the Data plate.... THAT
is what you register.... If you want my opinion on a rebodied car... it's
Still the original NUMBER and it's sitting there.... so in my mind that
makes it a REAL 100S,,, and in this case.... Geez guys... over half the car
to include the drive train is original...
If I could ever get my hands on that Flower Pot piece of Lexan.... Trust
me... Donalds Bonneville car would rise again.... ( I heard tales of a
Steering wheel being out there once )
Keith ( who cares what it costs if it's NOT for sale....past that total
integrity is required )( Try selling your wife's engagement ring and tell
me how that goes!!! )
----------
> From: Editorgary@aol.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: 100S and 100M -- Originals, etc. (long)
> Date: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:43 AM
>
> In a message dated 6/3/02 8:25:56 AM, naku@wayxcable.com writes:
>
> << Although the point is probably moot since the materials to accurately
> reproduce 100S's in any volume don't exist, this car should probably be
> registered and tracked as Reconstructed or Replica. It is likely to be
the
> only one so registered, however. >>
>
> Whether collector cars can be called originals, replicas, and
reconstructions
> is a fascinating semantic and philosophical topic, not to mention serious
> legal and financial issue. If we draw examples from more expensive cars
of
> the same category (e.g. Jaguar C-types and D-types) then the major effort
of
> the registries is to establish through search of previous ownership
whether a
> current owner can claim an unbroken line of ownership back to the
original
> car produced. This assures that there are no "originals" claimed that
don't
> have one of the original serial numbers and that each of the original
serial
> numbers is claimed by only one owner. If that is the case, then it is
the
> "claim" that has intrinsic value in addition to the practical value of
the
> piece of metal on wheels that currently represents that car. And that
> intrinsic value is not to be sneezed at. A C-type that is included in
their
> registry can be worth in the range of $1 million, give or take $200k. A
> C-type that is exactly like it in all respects, having been built to the
same
> standards by the same company (e.g. Lynx) that restored the registry car,
> isn't likely to be worth more than $150,000 -- essentially the cost of
labor
> and materials required to build the car.
>
> Both will give the driver the same driving experience, but if the
registered
> car is lost (not crashed; these cars are never irrevocably broken) i.e.
> stolen and untraceable, tucked away in some collector's garage never to
see
> light of day again) then the insurance claim will be $1million. If the
car is
> simply crashed into a tiny little ball of metal, then the claim will be
> $150,000.
>
> The issue for 100S owners, unlike that for 100M and LeMans-modified 100s,
is
> that a record exists of each and every car produced and there is no
question
> of the validity of that record. For 100M cars, there is a list of 640
BN2s
> that were recorded as modified during production, but there may be as
many as
> 600 BN1s that were modified by Healey Motor Works during production, and
> there are an untold number of other BN1s and BN2s that were modified to
> LeMans specs after purchase. For this reason, there is a bit of claim of
> intrinsic value for the 640 recorded cars, but beyond that the premium
paid
> is simply for the quality of the restoration, and existence of the LeMans
> modifications (even if, for example, the H6 carbs were manufactured last
year
> for a Triumph).
>
> Just some thoughts for a Monday morning.
> Cheers
> Gary
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From <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 16:32:59 -0400
Subject: Mallory Dual Point Distributor
Thanks so much for your help.
Best Regards, Joe
55 BN1
60 BT7
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:41:14 -0500
Subject: Re: 100S and 100M -- Originals, etc. (long)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: <Editorgary@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: 100S and 100M -- Originals, etc. (long)
> Okay.... let me share this with you....
>
> I have a buddy that has a 275 short wheelbase Ferrari...( or had ) and he
> was showing the only thing on the car that had any value what so ever...
> and that was the Number plate.... After the number plate.... EVERY
portion
> of the car could be replaced.... and needed to.... as he was racing the
> damn thing....
>
> Today I have another friend who has THE original light weight Camaro of
> Roger Penske and Mark Donahue.... and he races and wrecks it regularly....
> ( ouch ) and again the only care or concern is for the Data plate.... THAT
> is what you register.... If you want my opinion on a rebodied car... it's
> Still the original NUMBER and it's sitting there.... so in my mind that
> makes it a REAL 100S,,, and in this case.... Geez guys... over half the
car
> to include the drive train is original...
>
> If I could ever get my hands on that Flower Pot piece of Lexan.... Trust
> me... Donalds Bonneville car would rise again.... ( I heard tales of a
> Steering wheel being out there once )
>
> Keith ( who cares what it costs if it's NOT for sale....past that total
> integrity is required )( Try selling your wife's engagement ring and tell
> me how that goes!!! )
> ----------
> > From: Editorgary@aol.com
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: 100S and 100M -- Originals, etc. (long)
> > Date: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:43 AM
> >
> > In a message dated 6/3/02 8:25:56 AM, naku@wayxcable.com writes:
> >
> > << Although the point is probably moot since the materials to accurately
> > reproduce 100S's in any volume don't exist, this car should probably be
> > registered and tracked as Reconstructed or Replica. It is likely to be
> the
> > only one so registered, however. >>
> >
> > Whether collector cars can be called originals, replicas, and
> reconstructions
> > is a fascinating semantic and philosophical topic, not to mention
serious
>
> > legal and financial issue. If we draw examples from more expensive cars
> of
> > the same category (e.g. Jaguar C-types and D-types) then the major
effort
> of
> > the registries is to establish through search of previous ownership
> whether a
> > current owner can claim an unbroken line of ownership back to the
> original
> > car produced. This assures that there are no "originals" claimed that
> don't
> > have one of the original serial numbers and that each of the original
> serial
> > numbers is claimed by only one owner. If that is the case, then it is
> the
> > "claim" that has intrinsic value in addition to the practical value of
> the
> > piece of metal on wheels that currently represents that car. And that
> > intrinsic value is not to be sneezed at. A C-type that is included in
> their
> > registry can be worth in the range of $1 million, give or take $200k. A
> > C-type that is exactly like it in all respects, having been built to the
> same
> > standards by the same company (e.g. Lynx) that restored the registry
car,
>
> > isn't likely to be worth more than $150,000 -- essentially the cost of
> labor
> > and materials required to build the car.
> >
> > Both will give the driver the same driving experience, but if the
> registered
> > car is lost (not crashed; these cars are never irrevocably broken) i.e.
> > stolen and untraceable, tucked away in some collector's garage never to
> see
> > light of day again) then the insurance claim will be $1million. If the
> car is
> > simply crashed into a tiny little ball of metal, then the claim will be
> > $150,000.
> >
> > The issue for 100S owners, unlike that for 100M and LeMans-modified
100s,
> is
> > that a record exists of each and every car produced and there is no
> question
> > of the validity of that record. For 100M cars, there is a list of 640
> BN2s
> > that were recorded as modified during production, but there may be as
> many as
> > 600 BN1s that were modified by Healey Motor Works during production, and
> > there are an untold number of other BN1s and BN2s that were modified to
> > LeMans specs after purchase. For this reason, there is a bit of claim
of
>
> > intrinsic value for the 640 recorded cars, but beyond that the premium
> paid
> > is simply for the quality of the restoration, and existence of the
LeMans
>
> > modifications (even if, for example, the H6 carbs were manufactured last
> year
> > for a Triumph).
> >
> > Just some thoughts for a Monday morning.
> > Cheers
> > Gary
>
> ///
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 17:04:31 -0400
Subject: Re: searching for Tim Kin
Regards,
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 18:19:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Mallory Dual Point Distributor
You were exactly right. The web site for Mallory is under Mr. Gasket.
Thanks, Joe
On Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:21:33 -0700 "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
Joe,
Try under Mr. Gasket. Mallory is one of their companies now, I believe.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: healey27@mindspring.com [mailto:healey27@mindspring.com]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 1:33 PM
To: Healey
Subject: Mallory Dual Point Distributor
As the list may remember, I am having problems with a Mallory dual point
distributor on my 1955 BN1. I have been unable to secure a Lucas
replacement in time for Healey Day at VIR Raceway in Virginia Saturday so I
am going to replace the points in this Mallory and PRAY. I cannot find the
instructions for the Mallory or the Mallory web site. Any assistance with
instructions on installing and setting the dual point would be greatly
appreciated. Also, anyone know the Mallory website?
Thanks so much for your help.
Best Regards, Joe
55 BN1
60 BT7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 23:34:42 +0100
Subject: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
Is there a generic name for this head, so I can get hold of the right
type?
Thanks as ever for any help from the List.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 00:21:32 +0100
Subject: Re-using oversize holes for self-tapping screws - what options?
Usual problem - self-tappers into the bodywork, attaching trim parts, no
longer grip. What are my options, given that I can't get to the back of
the hole?
1. Use larger screws - OK but I want the same size head.
2. Move the holes and buy new undrilled trim parts? But I want to use my
original parts if possible.
3. Close the holes with "plastic metal" of some sort - can this be
redrilled for a self-tapper, or do I still have to move the holes?
4. Braze or weld shut, then redrill? Never done this before!
Are there any other options I've not thought of?? I don't fancy grinding
down the heads on the next size up!
TIA.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 19:43:54 -0700
Subject: rubber holder
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 16:48:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
As far as I know, those screws were originally not 'flanged' as you
describe, just a normal round head posidriv screw. It may be that someone
has replaced the ones on your car at some point in the past.
I know for a fact that those screws on my '62 are the originals, and I'm
almost certain that the ones on my BJ8 are as well.
Perhaps another lister can shed some light on the subject to confirm this.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 3:34 PM
Subject: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
I have to replace some of the missing self tappers that hold the door
sill inner trims in place. The existing screw heads are best described
as Posidriv mushroom heads that look like they have a washer fixed
permanently under the head. Is this head called "flange head"? I've only
seen it described as a "DIN 968", but that might not mean much outside
Europe!
Is there a generic name for this head, so I can get hold of the right
type?
Thanks as ever for any help from the List.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:57:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Re-using oversize holes for self-tapping screws - what
I've used J B Weld with good success. Don't know if it's available in the
UK.
Regards,
Larry Mercier
Atlanta
BN 6, AN 5, AN 6, AN 8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 7:21 PM
Subject: Re-using oversize holes for self-tapping screws - what options?
> I've tried the archives, without luck, and I'm an absolute novice when
> it comes to bodywork repairs ....
>
> Usual problem - self-tappers into the bodywork, attaching trim parts, no
> longer grip. What are my options, given that I can't get to the back of
> the hole?
> 1. Use larger screws - OK but I want the same size head.
> 2. Move the holes and buy new undrilled trim parts? But I want to use my
> original parts if possible.
> 3. Close the holes with "plastic metal" of some sort - can this be
> redrilled for a self-tapper, or do I still have to move the holes?
> 4. Braze or weld shut, then redrill? Never done this before!
>
> Are there any other options I've not thought of?? I don't fancy grinding
> down the heads on the next size up!
>
> TIA.
> --
> Alan Cross
> Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 01:00:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
Earl,
The screws I am referring to are those that hold the inner sill trim to
the floor, but, on my car, they are the same type that hold the shut
panels and the outer sill trims in place. I'm pretty sure that these
have not *all* been replaced (38 K miles, one previous owner), so would
venture that they are original. But the inner sills have been out for
re-carpeting at some time, and the screw holes have not taken too kindly
to the process. Also, given that the sills trims are not tight to the
sills, but separated by carpet, I can see the holes wearing through
vibration, kicking, etc.
Regards...
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 01:07:10 +0100
Subject: Re: Re-using oversize holes for self-tapping screws - what
Larry,
Many thanks for this. I've heard mention of it on the list before, and
thought it to be a US product. However, a web search has just revealed
that their European HQ is about 20 miles down the road from me! So J B
Weld it is - thanks again.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 01:35:29 +0100
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
From a Google image search, it seems truss head is usually just a
shallow mushroom head. The screw I have is like that, but with a
distinct impression of a washer (larger than the head) welded under the
head.
The screw I have is illustrated here.....
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Judging from its use for all my aluminium trim pieces, I'd say they are
original.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: <caudle1@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 02:28:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Re-using oversize holes for self-tapping screws - what
Mark Fawcett
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 23:36:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Pinewood Derby at Open Roads
Rotaryman,
The pinewood derby is going to be run by the Smoky Mountain AHC of Tennessee.
Try emailing the Club President, Bill Denton, at bill@morristown.net. I
imagine that there will be a class for kids and one for adults.
Look forward to seeing you and you son at Tahoe.
Vrooom vrooom.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 23:41:29 -0400
Subject: Tip
One of the most impossible pieces to remove on the big Healey is the cross rod
that is part of the accelerator pedal to carb linkage. You know . . . the
piece that hides up under the firewall above the bell housing and is only
visible with a mirror. Well, after receiving some new bushes from Bill Bolton
a while back I decided to tackle this since I was also having head work done
and thought it might be easier with no head in the way. Turns out it does not
make any real difference.
The usual suggestion is to remove the four 1/4 x 1/2 or so bolts holding the
two black brackets when the engine is out of the car or to pull the tranny
cover and attack from the cockpit side of things. The major trouble is not
just the remote and minimal space to work but also the curvature of the black
bracket does not allow most 7/16 sockets to go on the bolt head!
A month or so ago by working from the engine compartment and under the car I
managed to remove the bolts with much aggravation. Reinstallation went very
poorly as well until I discovered one 50-year old, cheap socket in my 1/4 inch
drive stuff. The installation of the last bolt went quickly with it! The
socket is 7/16 but only a touch over 9/16 long, 1/4 drive.
Today I perfected the procedure as I had to take the whole crossrod assembly
down as one of the bushes was still too tight on the shaft not allowing the
linkage to fully return (head on the engine but carbs were off). Here is the
procedure:
1. working from above loosen the forward passenger side bolt several turns
with the SUPER SOCKET and a 3 inch extension and 1/4 drive ratchet. Leave the
bolt in!
2. remove the rear passenger side bolt with the same SUPER SOCKET and 3
inch extension.
3. with the front of the car raised up for access move under the car on
pasteboard (gave my useless creeper away) and use the SUPER SOCKET and 3 inch
extension with ratchet to loosen the forward bolt on the driver's side several
turns. Having long arms here is helpful!
4. now use the SUPER SOCKET and extension to remove the rear bolt on the
driver's side.
5. finish removing the forward bolt, driver's side.
6. return to the passenger side, remove the forward bolt, slide the
assembly out toward the passenger's side.
"Assembly is basically the reverse of disassembly" but it does go a little
slower.
"Results may vary" but it worked well for me.
Keith Pennell
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 23:48:43 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S "For Sale"
> Which is a
> clearer term? RECONSTRUCTION or REPLICA?
>
>
I would say "replica." Reconstruction denotes that it was previously a
legitimate 100S. See you at Tahoe.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 01:44:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:46:58 -0700
Subject: Fw: Re-using oversize holes for self-tapping screws - what
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 19:50:43 +0100
Subject: Re: 100M--was 100S for Sale
I am not sure that I like this word supposedly. I have it in writing
from DMH that he knew the then owner of my 100 Le Mans and more recently
a strong recollection by Brian (Bic) Healey. The then owner ran a wine
bar in Curzon Street, close to the Healey London showrooms. DMH often
took his clients there.
All the best
--
John Harper
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From meditionm at netscape.net
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 02:42:21 -0400
Subject: RE: Tip
"Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net> wrote:
>Listers, a tip to share.
>
>One of the most impossible pieces to remove on the big Healey is the cross rod
>that is part of the accelerator pedal to carb linkage. You know . . . the
>piece that hides up under the firewall above the bell housing and is only
>visible with a mirror. Well, after receiving some new bushes from Bill Bolton
>a while back I decided to tackle this since I was also having head work done
>and thought it might be easier with no head in the way. Turns out it does not
>make any real difference.
>
>The usual suggestion is to remove the four 1/4 x 1/2 or so bolts holding the
>two black brackets when the engine is out of the car or to pull the tranny
>cover and attack from the cockpit side of things. The major trouble is not
>just the remote and minimal space to work but also the curvature of the black
>bracket does not allow most 7/16 sockets to go on the bolt head!
>
>A month or so ago by working from the engine compartment and under the car I
>managed to remove the bolts with much aggravation. Reinstallation went very
>poorly as well until I discovered one 50-year old, cheap socket in my 1/4 inch
>drive stuff. The installation of the last bolt went quickly with it! The
>socket is 7/16 but only a touch over 9/16 long, 1/4 drive.
>
>Today I perfected the procedure as I had to take the whole crossrod assembly
>down as one of the bushes was still too tight on the shaft not allowing the
>linkage to fully return (head on the engine but carbs were off). Here is the
>procedure:
>1. working from above loosen the forward passenger side bolt several turns
>with the SUPER SOCKET and a 3 inch extension and 1/4 drive ratchet. Leave the
>bolt in!
>2. remove the rear passenger side bolt with the same SUPER SOCKET and 3
>inch extension.
>3. with the front of the car raised up for access move under the car on
>pasteboard (gave my useless creeper away) and use the SUPER SOCKET and 3 inch
>extension with ratchet to loosen the forward bolt on the driver's side several
>turns. Having long arms here is helpful!
>4. now use the SUPER SOCKET and extension to remove the rear bolt on the
>driver's side.
>5. finish removing the forward bolt, driver's side.
>6. return to the passenger side, remove the forward bolt, slide the
>assembly out toward the passenger's side.
>
>"Assembly is basically the reverse of disassembly" but it does go a little
>slower.
>
>"Results may vary" but it worked well for me.
>
>Keith Pennell
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 09:29:48 +0200
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
The screw you are looking for has the item no DRF 116 at AH Spares in the
old UK.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:53:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
Magnus,
Yes, thanks, I missed them because for some reason they are on the door
(DRF) page, not the 'inner body panel' (IBP) page! My problem now is, as
you will have seen on the list, closing the old holes to grip.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:21:09 +0100
Subject: Lucas parts list for BJ8?
Is there a list on the web of Lucas part numbers for a 1967 AH, or can
anyone give me the ISBN of an appropriate catalogue reprint? Are these
part numbers listed in the Austin Healey parts catalogue itself, or have
AH part numbers been substituted?
TIA
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 07:57:17 EDT
Subject: Route 50 Tour - Louisville
Everyone is invited to join the Bluegrass Club as we welcome the Route 50
Travelers as they pass through Louisville. If you are passing through
Louisville on this date we have a block of rooms reserved at the hotel under
Austin Healey Club.
We have a private room off the Champions Grill (formerly Lords of London
Restaurant). Dinner will be your choice and on separate checks. The hotel bar
is attached to the room and we will have a private area for drinks before
dinner. 7 PM dinner reservation.
After dinner I have the Tack Room reserved for socializing. A large room near
the front door and it is easy to spill out into the parking lot and see the
cars. We will have a bartender on duty in the room. Please park near the
front entrance to the hotel and use the door on the right marked restaurant.
So far we have 18 visitors plus 17 people local participants. Please send me
an email if you plan to attend so I can make a final reservation number.
Hope everyone can join us!
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Visit my Healey Adventure site at www.jamesfwerner.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 05:08:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Tip [throttle cross rod]
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:37:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Pertronix
Steve
61BN7
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Katz [mailto:bkatz@handsonresearch.com]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:45 PM
To: Kocik, Stephen W
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Pertronix
Here's how mine is wired:
Solid black from Pertronix to original solid white wire.
Black/white wire from Pertronix to coil.
Original white/black wire to other side of coil.
New jumper wire from chassis ground to same side of coil as original
white/black.
BTW, I crimped on spade connectors to the Pertronix leads, so if I have to
revert to points, the original connectors are still intact.
BK
----------------
>61BN7
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:58:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Tip [throttle cross rod]
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Gerow [mailto:sgerow@singular.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 8:08 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: Tip [throttle cross rod]
Replacing the bolts with Allen heads works too.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:01:08 EDT
Subject: Supercharger For Sale
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:07:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Tip [throttle cross rod]
> Replacing the bolts with Allen heads works too.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>>
>> One of the most impossible pieces to remove on the big Healey is the
>> cross rod that is part of the accelerator pedal to carb linkage.
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 09:25:24 -0400
Subject: Another Tip
I just thought I'd share a tune-up experience that may help others.
I was checking to verify that my ignition timing and advance system was
working properly. I had determined that my vacuum advance was in fact
working, but it seemed sluggish to me. I wondered if after 38 years, maybe
the rubber bellow had hardened. My thought was that this could be changing
the curve (or moving the range) of the vacuum advance. After much
procrastination, I purchased a new vacuum unit.
Using my trusty Mity-Vac, I checked both the old and new vacuum units. The
old unit came to the end of it's movement range at 15 inches of mercury.
It's movement at the end of it's range was jerky and rough. The new unit was
all done at 12 inches of mercury. And it was smooth.
The car seems slightly more responsive, and just better behaved. I'm glad I
did it.
Dave
PS. I recently told the list that I was installing an earlier exhaust on my
BJ8, and that I'd report on how it fit. PERFECT! All mounts were there...in
the right places. One word of caution for anyone trying this: One mounting
point is on the rear outrigger. My car had the correct mounting holes in
place on the outrigger. But I had replaced that outrigger a while ago.
Assuming that they make the outrigger to fit more than BJ8's, original BJ8's
may or may not have that mounting location in the outrigger.
I LOVE the way it sounds, and I felt no change in power. The tailpipe is
narrower than the BJ8 pipes, but the resonators are gone. I'm guessing that
one compensates for the other. Anyway....this was just for anyone who might
be considering this change. Also...without those resonators in the way, it's
WAY easier to get my floor jack under the differential to jack the rear.
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From Joel Seguine <jseguine at umich.edu>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 09:46:24 -0400
Subject: Welch Seal
I took my crank to "my" machine shop this morning to have the scroll end
turned to take the Denis Welch oil seal retainer. My guy said he'd done
this job according to the instructions provided for three Triumph owners
who had trouble with the seal leaking. I don't know, and he couldn't
remember, if the Triumph kit was from Welch, but the retainer looked the
same to him. He did note that the Healey seal I showed him srewed
together, whereas the Triumph unit closed by torquing down the bearing
cap to which part of the retainer is bolted. He hadn't done any for
other Healey owners. He was just alerting me.
Anyone had problems with the Welch seal on 6-cyl motors (mine's from a
BJ8)?
Thanks.
Joel Seguine
Ann Arbor, MI.
GO WINGS!
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From Claude Vaughn <dncvaughn at yahoo.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 07:28:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey Coupe (More Info)
Due to the overwhelming response to my first try (see
below), I researched a little more. Actually, last
night after the local news I switched over to the
Men's channel as I had several times previously, and
there it was again. It is an infomercial for the
Tornado Fuel Saver. I watched the whole boring 30
minutes to see if I could get a better glimpse of the
mystery car. About 20 minutes into it they
interviewed the retired maintenance supervisor from
Norwalk (CT, I assume). Over his shoulder it was
clear that it WAS a red big Healey. The fender spears
are a dead giveaway. You can easily make out the
shape of the headlights and front end. It is also
clearly a coupe. Earlier in the show I could make out
the rear fairly well and, very dejectedly, told my
wife that it looked as if I had egg on my face because
it appeared to look like a red 240Z. This all changed
when the fellow from Norwalk appeared for his
interview. IT IS A HEALEY!! I did have moments of
self doubt and tried to rationalize the fender spears
as being reflections from the florescent lights. But
the shape of the fenders coming into the headlights
only meant one thing. As I said earlier: IT IS A
HEALEY.
The infomercial came on at 11:30 PM EDT on the Men's
channel. On DISH it is channel 223.
Maybe I'm making too much of this and it is not as
exciting as a Bay Area Healey sighting, but it is a
Healey Coupe sighting, after all!!! Maybe it belongs
to a California lister or club member. The
infomercial appeared to be taped in the garages of
Saddleback College in Orange County. Maybe some of
you SoCal Healeyists could check it out. The head of
the automotive technology department there was
interviewed so maybe he can tell who's it is or What
it is. I assume it is a replica. See this does tie
in with another (very popular) thread. Sorry to
ramble on so long but I do feel it is a significant
contribution.
Regards,
Claude
BN2
BN7
AN5
Listers,
A week or so ago I was flipping channels (wife was out
of town) and stopped on an infomercial on the Men's
Channel. It was for a stainless steel vortex
generator or something that is supposed to increase
gas mileage. I stopped at the channel because I
caught a glimpse of a familiar looking shape in the
background. There was a red coupe on a grease rack
but I couldn't tell what it was because the people
selling the snake oil vortex gen were standing in the
way. Obscuring just enough of it. It looked like the
100 coupe that DMH drove. The scene reminded me of
scenes on Home Improvement with Wilson. They leave
you wondering what Wilson's face looks like from the
upper lip down. It was maddening. The infomercial
was pretty obnoxious so I didn't stay with it too
long. Anybody else see this? Can you identify the
car? I haven't tried to look for it again.
Claude
BN2
BN7
AN5
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:32:21 +0100
Subject: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
Photo, along with the AH Spares sketch, at:
http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Does everyone agree that AH Spares are right, or is my solenoid correct
for at least some of the BJ8s? My car was a US export, June 1967.
TIA.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
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from somewhere else.
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:07:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Welch Seal
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Jon Asdourian <kriegerii at yahoo.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 08:14:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ& OD Solenoid
Jon
63 BJ7
59 Bug EYE
58 MGA
69 MGCGT
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Joel Seguine <jseguine at umich.edu>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 11:16:00 -0400
Subject: Welch Seal
Re my previous msg. I'm not used to remembering to chk the archives,
but I remembered after the fact this time. Previous replies say that
with careful machining the seal works fine. No need for further
responses unless there's some new caveat.
Thanks.
Joel Seguine
Ann Arbor, MI.
GO WINGS!
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from the original #6 to #8 to #10, and they are stripped again. Would
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:28:06 -0400
Subject: Door Trim Screws, BJ8
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:53:15 -0500
Subject: Re: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 9:32 AM
Subject: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
> My BJ8 is fitted with a starter solenoid that AH Spares list as for
> BN1-BJ7, with a different design for the BJ8.
>
> Photo, along with the AH Spares sketch, at:
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
> Does everyone agree that AH Spares are right, or is my solenoid correct
> for at least some of the BJ8s? My car was a US export, June 1967.
>
> TIA.
> --
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:56:05 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ& OD Solenoid
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Asdourian" <kriegerii@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:14 AM
Subject: BJ& OD Solenoid
> I just installed a new solenoid for my BJ7 and if I
> tighten all the way down it binds the shaft when
> activated, if I loosen it up, it works fine, I have
> tried to shim it from the OD unit, and it still jams
> if i tighten it all the say down, any suggestions.
>
> Jon
> 63 BJ7
> 59 Bug EYE
> 58 MGA
> 69 MGCGT
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 10:54:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Door Trim Screws, BJ8
Rivnuts would work... as will a stick on fastener on the back side...
this is a piece of double sided tape with a paper hole punch sized hole
attached to the nut .... which uses a 10/32 type fine thread screw....
punch the hole... peal the tape and stick it to the door and nut with the
panels off... install the handle... to get them absolutely correct.... then
take it back off and install the panels and handle permanently.... LONG
drawn out process... but I think it would be the best solution long term.
a piece of duct tape on the back side might work as well...
Okay now here is a problem... the door glass in the car on the BJ7/8 is
VERY close to those screws... and just ask Don.... you can scratch Brand
new glass with the tips of the screws if your not VERY CAREFUL...
Keith
----------
> From: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@prodigy.net>
> To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: Don Gschwind <dgschwind@netonecom.net>
> Subject: Door Trim Screws, BJ8
> Date: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:28 AM
>
> Hi, Listers,
> I have a problem with stripped screw holes for attaching the door
> interior pull handle to the door inner panel. I've gone up the size
> from the original #6 to #8 to #10, and they are stripped again. Would
> someone please suggest a permanent method of attachment for the handle
> (and for the smaller screws attaching the door arm rest)?
> Is there a system called "rivunuts" still around? They attach to
> the sheet metal like a "pop rivet", but are threaded inside for
> machine screw threads. They work in blind applications very well.
> (circa 1960's).
> Any help would be appreciated. TIA
> DON
> BJ8 Pandora
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:08:57 +0100
Subject: Re: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
Big difference in the AH spares drawing, though! And one is twice the
price of the other. The difference (according to AH Spares at least) has
to be more than you say.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:07:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Another Tip
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Masucci" <david_m@radiantsoundworks.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 8:25 AM
Subject: Another Tip
> Hi all,
>
> I just thought I'd share a tune-up experience that may help others.
>
> I was checking to verify that my ignition timing and advance system was
> working properly. I had determined that my vacuum advance was in fact
> working, but it seemed sluggish to me. I wondered if after 38 years, maybe
> the rubber bellow had hardened. My thought was that this could be changing
> the curve (or moving the range) of the vacuum advance. After much
> procrastination, I purchased a new vacuum unit.
>
> Using my trusty Mity-Vac, I checked both the old and new vacuum units. The
> old unit came to the end of it's movement range at 15 inches of mercury.
> It's movement at the end of it's range was jerky and rough. The new unit
was
> all done at 12 inches of mercury. And it was smooth.
>
> The car seems slightly more responsive, and just better behaved. I'm glad
I
> did it.
>
> Dave
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 09:20:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Door Trim Screws, BJ8
The rivnut system is available, check out http://www.bollhoff-rivnut.com/ and
look under 'contact us' for a list of distributors. I have only seen the machine
screw threaded inserts ... nothing for sheet metal threads. I would also be
careful about the length of the rivnut and any non-original screws because of
the
proximity to the glass.
I would be tempted to glue with epoxy or JB weld, a sheetmetal patch behind the
existing holes. Drill the proper size hole in the sheetmetal, clean the surfaces
well, add glue and use the handle and original screws to clamp the metal in
place
until it hardens. Should be as good or better than new if you use a thicker gage
of sheetmetal for your patch.
Regards,
John
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:35:01 -0400
Subject: fuel guage
Thanks to who all who responded to my fuel guage problem. I installed a
'jumper ' ground wire from the sender to the body. That fixed it!!! I don't
know how accurate it is but at least it's working. Thanks again.
Ted
BN1
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 09:41:49 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ& OD Solenoid
Sometimes you have to bend slightly the operating lever that the solenoid
plunger lifts to align things so that they are 'happy'.
The whole assembly should not bind at all when you lift the lever / plunger
by hand. Be careful not to upset the solenoid lever travel adjustment when
you do this!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Asdourian" <kriegerii@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: BJ& OD Solenoid
I just installed a new solenoid for my BJ7 and if I
tighten all the way down it binds the shaft when
activated, if I loosen it up, it works fine, I have
tried to shim it from the OD unit, and it still jams
if i tighten it all the say down, any suggestions.
Jon
63 BJ7
59 Bug EYE
58 MGA
69 MGCGT
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: JSoderling@aol.com
To: rotaryman@worldnet.att.net
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:42:30 EDT
Subject: re 100M -- if you don't care, delete
<< I am not sure that I like this word supposedly. I have it in writing
from DMH that he knew the then owner of my 100 Le Mans and more recently
a strong recollection by Brian (Bic) Healey. >>
As far as I can determine from VERY careful reading of Geoff Healey's books,
there is no question that the Donald Healey Motor Works was engaged in the
conversion of BN1s to LeMans specifications, including re-fitting bonnets
that had been sent back to Jensen's for louvering, in 1954 after introducing
the modification kit in late 1953. These conversions were first done on
customer cars, and sometime afterward, the Cape Works began doing the
conversions on cars in production that had not yet been shipped to dealers.
It seems to me that the only issue is whether these BN1s, which went through
essentially the same process as the BN2s, should properly be called "100Ms."
Based on the premise that the term "100M" wasn't used in marketing until the i
ntroduction of the BN2 versions, that it can't be applied to a car that was
modified before the term was introduced.
This is a fun semantic argument and will probably be continued forever.
Certainly I'll hold to my views until such time as someone can show me a
piece of sales literature advertising the 100M that has a printed date on it
earlier than September 1955. (and yes, I've seen sales literature for the
100Ms that is illustrated with a picture of what is clearly a BN1 from the
fenders and feature line, but I haven't seen one of those with a date on it
and I suspect those pieces of literature were designed and printed in
anticipation of the BN2 introduction.)
Cheers
Gary
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:35:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Coupe (More Info)
Claude,
One of the Northeast Region AHCA members has a BJ8 with a fiberglas hardtop
that turns the car into a fastback coupe. I don't know who the manufacturer
was, but it was aftermarket. The rear window was very 240Zish and this may
be the same top that you've seen.
Happy Healeying
Rick
In a message dated 6/4/02 10:30:13 AM, dncvaughn@yahoo.com writes:
<<Listers,
Due to the overwhelming response to my first try (see
below), I researched a little more. Actually, last
night after the local news I switched over to the
Men's channel as I had several times previously, and
there it was again. It is an infomercial for the
Tornado Fuel Saver. I watched the whole boring 30
minutes to see if I could get a better glimpse of the
mystery car. About 20 minutes into it they
interviewed the retired maintenance supervisor from
Norwalk (CT, I assume). Over his shoulder it was
clear that it WAS a red big Healey. The fender spears
are a dead giveaway. You can easily make out the
shape of the headlights and front end. It is also
clearly a coupe. Earlier in the show I could make out
the rear fairly well and, very dejectedly, told my
wife that it looked as if I had egg on my face because
it appeared to look like a red 240Z. This all changed
when the fellow from Norwalk appeared for his
interview. IT IS A HEALEY!! I did have moments of
self doubt and tried to rationalize the fender spears
as being reflections from the florescent lights. But
the shape of the fenders coming into the headlights
only meant one thing. As I said earlier: IT IS A
HEALEY.
The infomercial came on at 11:30 PM EDT on the Men's
channel. On DISH it is channel 223.
Maybe I'm making too much of this and it is not as
exciting as a Bay Area Healey sighting, but it is a
Healey Coupe sighting, after all!!! Maybe it belongs
to a California lister or club member. The>>
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Another Tip
That's great information that I didn't know. Thanks!!
Dave
From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 10:49:10 -0700
Subject: FW: Healey Coupe (More Info)
Ken Freese
65BJ8
http://www.kellisoncars.com/
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 13:54:23 -0500
Subject: Re: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
From George Castleberry <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:01:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Coupe (More Info)
George
BN1L-157155
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 19:03:01 +0100
Subject: Re: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
I'll take this up with AH Spares tomorrow!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:17:22 -0400
Subject: Le Mans cars
AUSTIN HEALEY LE MANS
We take great pleasure in announcing a new model Austin Healey to be known as
the Austin Healey 100 Le Mans, to supplement the existing "100." The new
model incorporates the following design features not found in the existing
model:
Mechanical
Engine-Full LeMans Kit plus high compression pistons 8.5:1 ratio,
which
increases the output of the engine to 115 BHP.
Front Suspension-Front shock absorbers incorporating racing settings.
Racing Type Anti-roll Bar.
Body Work
Two-tone paint work
Hood (Bonnet) louvred
Safety Strap fitted (similar to the Austin Healey 100-S type).
All mmodifications to this car are carried out by the Donald Healey Motor
Company in Warwick and does not in any way change the existing equipment of
the Austin Healey "100"
Retail price of this car is $3275.00 F.O.B. Coastal Port of Entry.
White side walls and under coating extra.
No date was on this announcement. Facts have it, of course, that Donald
Healey was aware that the six cylinder car was in the wings and so he thought
to use up 640 "kits" with this new model. Kits were known to still be for
sale in the early 1960's...dealers couldn't get rid of them!!!!!!! Louvred
Hoods were an option, but of course were not Jensen numbered. Probably not
many of the hoods were sold as the normal owner didn't want the rain water on
his engine.
Bill Wood
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:22:23 -0400
Subject: Streamliner Healey 100
If you have the bucks, I do have the Canopy, steering wheel, Donald's helmet
and driving shoes, should you want to "recreate" this car and event. I don't
think that the vehicle had a serial number plate because it was so "Special"
so you don't have to concern yourself or your accountant with this detail.
Regards,
Bill Wood
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:24:48 -0400
Subject: DD 300
Even the ID plate was not original to the UJB car!
Bill Wood
From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:28:36 -0400
Subject: Dealet Supplied kits
Bill Wood
From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:13:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: ice blue look-a-like
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:08:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Streamliner Healey 100
I had heard the Steering wheel was out there as well... and to be honest
Yes I would love to have it on my Healey when I go with a Healey...
The Camaro wouldn't seem quite right with a Healey Steering wheel and a
Healey nut behind it.... Someday we can use that part.... unfortunately
the real answer is nothing else is legal today... bummer really... cause
that was my first goal... to build a replica of the 100 streamliner... and
get in the Two Club.... but there are no records to be set in a car that
can run TIME only.... and you have to set a record....
Doug Odom owns the other Bugeye and races it out there... I tried to con
him into going to Tahoe with it... but the finances weren't available for
him to do that... and Race this year.... He has offered me a ride in the
car on the salt.. and I do have many of the parts from his car to use on
mine.... Shoot he even wanted to sell me the car I just didn't have the
extra money to buy another race car this year...
I'd love to just feel that steering wheel ... if you knew how many times
I've dreamed of hanging onto it attached to a record setting ride....
Someday.... it will happen..
Keith Turk ( here is my junk again ) http://downtown.ala.net/~kturk
----------
> From: Bill Wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Streamliner Healey 100
> Date: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 1:22 PM
>
> Hi Keith,
>
> If you have the bucks, I do have the Canopy, steering wheel, Donald's
helmet
> and driving shoes, should you want to "recreate" this car and event. I
don't
> think that the vehicle had a serial number plate because it was so
"Special"
> so you don't have to concern yourself or your accountant with this
detail.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Wood
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:19:35 -0400
Subject: 3801
It would appear that the only question in the whole story now is the serial
number plate, which is long gone in a scrap yard in California. I suppose
that if one were to find it, you could make another 3801......
Evidently, the only party in the whole sorted tale not to know of the problem
of authenicity was the person I spoke to at Barrett-Jackson who told me that
B-J didn't allow "Replica" cars to be sold on the auction block and that it
would be removed. Maybe, they retained the Reserve Status in order to get
some sort of commission on any sale in their parking lot.
Bill Wood
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: clutch hose brkt
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From William Wagner <wcwagner at soltec.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:42:17 -0500
Subject: Frame Dollies
Bill Wagner
e-mail: wcwagner@soltec.net
H-BJ8-L/41475, Metallic Golden Beige
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:49:16 -0400
Subject: RE: clutch hose brkt
As far as I recall all 6 cyl cars have that bracket on the frame to
secure the clutch hose to pipe joint. Interestingly the bracket has a
clip thingee over it which locks the hexagon of the hose so you don't
need 2 wrenches to remove the pipe or loosen the lock nut.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of joe mulqueen
Sent: 4-Jun-02 3:29 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: clutch hose brkt
Hello,
I noticed a BJ8 having a metal tab bracket that
secures the junction of the clutch slave cylinder hose
to the hydraulic pipe on the chassis. Should this be
present on all 6 cyl cars? My '60 lost it's original
RH frame rail and the replacement doesn't have one
attached. I hope this makes sense....
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From <busyrider at springmail.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 17:26:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Major photo feature on the Arthur Carter Collection
On Sat, 01 Jun 2002 19:04:54 -0700 "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
It isn't fair that all these magnicent cars belong in one collection. WOW!
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 21:51:44 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ& OD Solenoid
My Haynes shop manual specifies 0.008 to 0.010" end float on the operating
shaft. I slip a 0.008" feeler guage between the setting lever and the
overdrive casing to insure that I actually have the proper end float.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jon Asdourian
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:15 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ& OD Solenoid
I just installed a new solenoid for my BJ7 and if I
tighten all the way down it binds the shaft when
activated, if I loosen it up, it works fine, I have
tried to shim it from the OD unit, and it still jams
if i tighten it all the say down, any suggestions.
Jon
63 BJ7
59 Bug EYE
58 MGA
69 MGCGT
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
/
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:01:47 -0700
Subject: Test
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 20:19:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Le Mans cars
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bill Wood <healeybill@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> There were 1200 kits produced for the Le Mans Engine
> modification, available
> as Part number P-280 for the price of $300.00. Many
> kits were put on the BN1
> cars prior to the announcement of the Austin-Healey
> 100 LeMans.
>
> AUSTIN HEALEY LE
> MANS
>
> We take great pleasure in announcing a new model
> Austin Healey to be known as
> the Austin Healey 100 Le Mans, to supplement the
> existing "100." The new
> model incorporates the following design features not
> found in the existing
> model:
>
> Mechanical
>
> Engine-Full LeMans Kit plus high compression
> pistons 8.5:1 ratio,
> which
> increases the output of the
> engine to 115 BHP.
> Front Suspension-Front shock absorbers
> incorporating racing settings.
> Racing Type Anti-roll Bar.
>
> Body Work
>
> Two-tone paint work
> Hood (Bonnet) louvred
> Safety Strap fitted (similar to the Austin
> Healey 100-S type).
>
> All mmodifications to this car are carried out by
> the Donald Healey Motor
> Company in Warwick and does not in any way change
> the existing equipment of
> the Austin Healey "100"
>
> Retail price of this car is $3275.00 F.O.B. Coastal
> Port of Entry.
> White side walls and under coating extra.
>
> No date was on this announcement. Facts have it, of
> course, that Donald
> Healey was aware that the six cylinder car was in
> the wings and so he thought
> to use up 640 "kits" with this new model. Kits were
> known to still be for
> sale in the early 1960's...dealers couldn't get rid
> of them!!!!!!! Louvred
> Hoods were an option, but of course were not Jensen
> numbered. Probably not
> many of the hoods were sold as the normal owner
> didn't want the rain water on
> his engine.
>
> Bill Wood
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:38:05 -0700
Subject: top frame
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From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:54:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 01:04:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: What style starter solenoid for a BJ8?
The main difference is the more expensive solenoid has
a push button override (which is super handy for
tuning up the car), where as the other cheaper model
is a sealed unit and does not have the rubber push
button override.
My early BJ8 has the older, more expensive one, and
most BJ8s I've seen have the same. If you are in
doubt what was original on your car, you should buy
the expensive one with the push button override. It's
a more useful set up by far.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Alan F Cross <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> My BJ8 is fitted with a starter solenoid that AH
> Spares list as for
> BN1-BJ7, with a different design for the BJ8.
>
> Photo, along with the AH Spares sketch, at:
>
> http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
>
> Does everyone agree that AH Spares are right, or is
> my solenoid correct
> for at least some of the BJ8s? My car was a US
> export, June 1967.
>
> TIA.
> --
> Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 08:40:37 EDT
Subject: Was: identify a screw/head , Now Tie rod boots...
<< STG 232 tie rod boots are now some type of accordian design. >>
The Jag folks have a tie rod boot that is nearly exact. I will try to get
the company and part number for you.
Richard
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:41:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Fwd: Healey Coupe (More Info)
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Movies, Music, Sports, Games! http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of Fastback Hardtop.doc]
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 10:49:40 EDT
Subject: Cars for Sale
Check out <A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jwha_cars_for_sale.html";>JWHA
-Cars and parts For Sale 2</A> and contact the owners for more
information.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:03:49 +0000
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
- Chinese Proverb
> I have purchased the DRF 116 set.
> Luckily they are inexpensive, because I found them to be of low quality
> and so small as to be virtually unusable. Maybe you'll receive a
> different version than I did.
> The head takes something like a '00' size screwdriver that you cannot
> use for any type of torque. I had to drill pilot holes to install them.
> Because of the washer design, they really don't look too good in that
> application. I recently found a screw that looks better. I had bought
> it from Moss to hold the turnbuttons.
> The screws are a #4 x 1/2 oval head. The Moss screw looks chromed
> (#323-600)
> Most of the stuff I have been getting looks like it was made for a car
> other than the Healey.
> (STG 232 tie rod boots are now some type of accordian design. SUF 112
> cotter for the lower fulcrum is too long.)
> BTW, I've seen Clarke spares advertising chrome #10 screws with #8 heads
> for those of us that have oversized screw holes.
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:19:47 -0400
Subject: Re;Re; clutch hose brkt
....Also interestingly some of the modern replacements have the wrong
size nuts to allow this to happen!
Stephen
BJ8
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From <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 12:33:58 -0400
Subject: Tahoe 2002
Are there any plans to:
1. Daily update on the web with ( hopefully ) pictures so that we poor folks
can get in on a little of the fun.
2. A video of the activies to be purchased.
Best regards, Joe
55 BN1
60 BT7
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:09:21 +0200
Subject: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Yesterday, I experienced the first bad sound on my normally perfect sounding
BJ8.
While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if something came lose in the
engine department and the car was making a clicking / ticking sound that
increased in speed when revving. At idle it could be heard lightly, but
became very loud while driving, as if something was hitting the wheel, but
then inside the engine.
As I was close by home I drove back, carefully watching both the oil
pressure and the temperature. These 2 remained very normal. Once driving a
bit more the sound disappeared (I did engage the overdrive once being
suspicious it would be an overdrive problem).
I have searched the archive and did not find anything similar. I am sure
there is someone out there that experienced something similar and that can
assure me it is not too serious.
Summer is here, would like to have my car on the road and not at the
mechanics,
Thanks in advance and regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Healey Coupe 1954
BJ8 1966
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 13:53:12 EDT
Subject: Now Tie rod boots...
They are not exact, but they are 95% and a significant improvement over what
our usual sources are providing. At least from an appearance standpoint. I
am sure that the accordian type work quite well.
Richard
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 10:57:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe 2002
BrianM
http://www.sdhealey.org/meetpics.html
http://www.sandiegobritishcarday.org/photos.html
healey27@mindspring.com wrote:
> I am sure that there are a group of Healey owners who will be unable to
>attend Tahoe. My reason is a wife with recent back surgery.
>
> Are there any plans to:
>
> 1. Daily update on the web with ( hopefully ) pictures so that we poor folks
>can get in on a little of the fun.
>
> 2. A video of the activies to be purchased.
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 55 BN1
> 60 BT7
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:45:22 -0400
Subject: BN1 seats
In the Nov. 2001 issue of 'Classic and Sports Car' John Surtees drove a dozen
British sports cars including a 100M. One of his major complaints about the
Healey was the seats. He said he felt like he was going to fall out of the
car! I tend to agree with his assessment. Not only do the seat backs flex too
much, the contour is wrong - at least for me. The curve is too tight.
Now...the seats in a friends 100-6 feel quite different. The curve of the back
is more 'shallow' and a lot more comfortable for me. Also, his seatbacks
don't flex nearly as much as mine. Apparently the seats were improved for the
100-6.
Can 100-6 seats be used in a 100? Can just the backs be exchanged? It seems
to me that the seat bottom frames contribute to the 'flexiness' of the seats.
Is this right? What about 'repro' seats? With the lists expert help I'd like
to make some changes to the seating in car.
Thanks.
Ted Schroeder
1955 BN1
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:40:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Tahoe 2002
John May ( AHCA VP) has a digital camera and every day during past
conclaves he posted pictures from that day on the AHCA web site. He already
has a process set up and I am sure if you wanted to piggyback on his efforts
he would be glad to assist.
I also have a digital and will be giving him a few pictures each day to fill
in what he missed.
If you are interested in working with John on this I would suggest getting
in touch with him to make sure he isn't already overwhelmed with help.
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA
----- Original Message -----
From: <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:33 PM
Subject: Tahoe 2002
> I am sure that there are a group of Healey owners who will be unable to
attend Tahoe. My reason is a wife with recent back surgery.
>
> Are there any plans to:
>
> 1. Daily update on the web with ( hopefully ) pictures so that we poor
folks can get in on a little of the fun.
>
> 2. A video of the activies to be purchased.
>
> Best regards, Joe
>
> 55 BN1
> 60 BT7
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:35:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: PPG question
Has anyone used DUI (or equiv from other mfgrs) on the
chassis/monocoque?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:29:22 -0600
Subject: Temperature control
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 22:59:28 +0100
Subject: Re: Temperature control
On/off switch. Either open or closed - anything in between suggests a
fault.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:07:55 -0700
Subject: Re: Temperature control
------------------
At 02:29 PM 6/5/2002, you wrote:
>Can some one help me trouble shoot the temperature switch on the dash. Is it
>an on/off switch that operates the fan motor or is it a variable resistor
>between min and max. Should there be any resistance measured across the
>leads?
>Thanks,
>Sid 65 BJ8
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:17:09 -0700
Subject: stainless hydraulic hoses
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From Csooch1 at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:29:11 -0400
Subject: Re: stainless hydraulic hoses
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:47:04 -0400
Subject: Shock Mount Concern
I occasionally check them for tightness and put very little torque on them.
When I pulled them there looked to be grade 5 bolts. On one, I tapped a
7/16 coarse thread, and after talking to Bruce at Healey Surgeons tapped the
other to 7/16 20 fine. Both snugged up nicely with as much torque as I
could put with a socket wrench.
Question-----should I feel comfortable with the holding power of the new
bolts -- especially the coarse thread one? Both are grade 8.
BTW, I could have heli coiled the last one but opted to re-thread to the
7/16 20 one.
TIA
tom
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: HealeyRic2@aol.com
To: dncvaughn@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:44:14 EDT
Subject: List Hat...
Richard
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 16:30:42 -0600
Subject: RE: Temperature control
> Sid,
> The horizontal sliding knob has two functions. Sliding controls the heater
> water valve. Pulling the knob in and out turns the fan off and on. Only
one
> speed!
> The right side pull knob controls air coming from the fan into the heater
> box.
> The left side pull knob controls fresh air from the grill area to the
> drivers vent outlet.
> What is your serial number? mine is 29004.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bronson [mailto:bron@rmci.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 2:29 PM
> To: Healey
> Subject: Temperature control
>
>
> Can some one help me trouble shoot the temperature switch on the dash. Is
> it
> an on/off switch that operates the fan motor or is it a variable resistor
> between min and max. Should there be any resistance measured across the
> leads?
> Thanks,
> Sid 65 BJ8
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:48:41 EDT
Subject: Tie Rod boots
Jim,
Are these the old style non-clipping boots that go on the center tie rod
only (#19 p. 136 Moss catalog)? Or do they correspond to #26?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 00:17:25 +0100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?q?Cloisonn=E9_bonnet_=28hood=29_badges_up_to_which
Gary and Roger say that badges up to "mid 1967" were cloisonni,
thereafter painted.
My BJ8 is June 1967, and I'm not sure which side if the watershed I
fall. When I bought my car there was no colour at all - just plain
chrome ((keen PO with a lust for polishing, methinks. or perhaps it just
cooked off in Palm Springs!). Does this suggest it was painted, or does
cloisonni fall off just as easily?
My lady is car number L/41672. Can anyone identify cars around this
number with whether they were cloisonni or painted? Perhaps we can pin
the transition down to a precise car. Maybe someone has done so already.
I have painted mine, but much prefer cloisonni, and will re-do it if
that is correct for my car.
TIA as always....
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 00:24:06 +0100
Subject: Same key for ignition, glove box, and boot (trunk) on MkIII?
TIA
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:29:33 EDT
Subject: Re: stainless hydraulic hoses
Both Dennis Welch and Cape International in UK both have listings for the
brake hoses, I'm sure they could make up the clutch hose, too.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 6/5/02 6:22:01 PM, Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
<<Does anyone offer replacement stainless hoses for the brakes and the clutch
on a BJ8?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8>>
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 16:30:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Cloisonne bonnet hood badges up to which car number?
bk
----------------
At 04:17 PM 6/5/2002, you wrote:
>(Sorry if the "e-acute" does not translate in your mail program - it's
>fine leaving me!)
>
>Gary and Roger say that badges up to "mid 1967" were cloisonni,
>thereafter painted.
>
>My BJ8 is June 1967, and I'm not sure which side if the watershed I
>fall. When I bought my car there was no colour at all - just plain
>chrome ((keen PO with a lust for polishing, methinks. or perhaps it just
>cooked off in Palm Springs!). Does this suggest it was painted, or does
>cloisonni fall off just as easily?
>
>My lady is car number L/41672. Can anyone identify cars around this
>number with whether they were cloisonni or painted? Perhaps we can pin
>the transition down to a precise car. Maybe someone has done so already.
>
>I have painted mine, but much prefer cloisonni, and will re-do it if
>that is correct for my car.
>
>TIA as always....
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:32:39 EDT
Subject: Re: stainless hydraulic hoses - Moss
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From "CAS" <CASepich at hotmail.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:18:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Temperature control
er, Sid. Shop manual "discloses" quite clearly.
<< Should there be any resistance measured across the
leads?>>
Yes and No.
Cin
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:23:12 -0400
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Cloisonn=E9?= bonnet (hood) badges up to
Its badge was painted....
-skip-
Alan F Cross wrote:
>
> (Sorry if the "e-acute" does not translate in your mail program - it's
> fine leaving me!)
>
> Gary and Roger say that badges up to "mid 1967" were cloisonni,
> thereafter painted.
>
> My BJ8 is June 1967, and I'm not sure which side if the watershed I
> fall. When I bought my car there was no colour at all - just plain
> chrome ((keen PO with a lust for polishing, methinks. or perhaps it just
> cooked off in Palm Springs!). Does this suggest it was painted, or does
> cloisonni fall off just as easily?
>
> My lady is car number L/41672. Can anyone identify cars around this
> number with whether they were cloisonni or painted? Perhaps we can pin
> the transition down to a precise car. Maybe someone has done so already.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 17:32:43 -0700
Subject: Ratcheting Open End Wrenches
Check this site for these wrenches. Set comes in sizes from 3/8" thru 11/16"
for $29.95. I bought them and they look strong.
www.aldenwrench.net/order.htm
No financial interest--just enthused with the idea.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 17:37:40 -0700
Subject: =?Windows-1252?Q?Re:_Cloisonn=E9_bonnet_=28hood=29_badges_up_t
Your car had a painted front emblem almost for sure - the cloisonne does not
fall off easily at all, it cracks and fades, but the differences between the
two badges is immediately obvious.
A lot of owners didn't like the cheaper, painted badges and 'upgraded' to
the older 'nicer' ones - this will probably make it extremely difficult to
pin down the exact car that had the change.
For instance: When I acquired my BJ8 (42845) in 1980, a previous owner had
done just that - except the badge on the car was a 3000 MKII badge - guess
he couldn't find the right one! Since I also owned a BT7 MKII at the time
that had a rather ratty badge, I was very happy - bought a repro MKIII
badge, and there it sits today.
This same argument is ongoing as to when the change was made to the stick-on
valve cover decals from the riveted on plates (mid '67 BJ8 production) -
some people didn't like the change and replaced the whole valve cover with
an earlier one! We may never know the change point, and it is probably not
consistent with the badge change anyway!
Maybe another lister can shed more light on this issue.
On the keys: As far as I know, the BJ8's were delivered with two keys - one
for the ignition switch and both door locks, and the other for the boot-lid
and glove-box locks. The two keys were a slightly different shape to
distinguish between them.
Isn't it fun?
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan F Cross" <alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: Cloisonni bonnet (hood) badges up to which car number?
(Sorry if the "e-acute" does not translate in your mail program - it's
fine leaving me!)
Gary and Roger say that badges up to "mid 1967" were cloisonni,
thereafter painted.
My BJ8 is June 1967, and I'm not sure which side if the watershed I
fall. When I bought my car there was no colour at all - just plain
chrome ((keen PO with a lust for polishing, methinks. or perhaps it just
cooked off in Palm Springs!). Does this suggest it was painted, or does
cloisonni fall off just as easily?
My lady is car number L/41672. Can anyone identify cars around this
number with whether they were cloisonni or painted? Perhaps we can pin
the transition down to a precise car. Maybe someone has done so already.
I have painted mine, but much prefer cloisonni, and will re-do it if
that is correct for my car.
TIA as always....
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:41:31 EDT
Subject: Golden Anniversary Issue AHM
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 20:47:39 -0400
Subject: sticky windows
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:54:18 +1000
Subject: RE: sticky windows
I have found that a very light smear of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) works
wonders.
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas L. Blaskovics [mailto:u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu]
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 10:48 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: sticky windows
Evening listers,
I am looking for suggestions besides soapy water to
loosen up the grooves for me windows to slide up and down
more easily.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:04:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Shock Mount Concern
FWIW: The shock mount set-up on the big Healey is critical to accuracy of
the geometry of the front suspension - the shock arms form the upper part of
the whole set-up.
I'm not sure that oversize bolts would be the way to go here. Are you sure
that it's the bolts that are stripping, or much more commonly, the captive
nuts in the shock mounting pedestal. The reason these strip is because they
are prone to being overtightened by anxious owners who don't want their
front end falling apart!
The correct drill with these items is to check them for tightness at every
service interval (possibly a little less often now as hobby cars) with and
accurate torque wrench, peferably a 'click' type - at 35 ft/pounds - much
more and eventually the nuts will strip.
I have always repaired stripped shock nuts with helicoils - it's a pain, but
the orignal bolts (or equivalent) can then be used. David Nock once told me
that they gave up - they locktite the bolts so that they won't loosen. What
locktite they use, and what happens when a shock has to be removed, I don't
know, but that method is worth considering.
I would guess that you'll be okay the way you are, but keep an eye on
things - if you've overtightened this time, you could have a problem when
you next check them!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tricarb (torqued the shock bolts yesterday - they were all loose!)
'67 BJ8 ( better have a look soon!)
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom felts" <tfelts@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 3:47 PM
Subject: Shock Mount Concern
Within the last two years I have put new shock mounts on my BJ8. On the
right one, one bolt stripped and a bigger bolt was put in---by someone in
Austria. Recently two outboard bolts in the other side stripped.
I occasionally check them for tightness and put very little torque on them.
When I pulled them there looked to be grade 5 bolts. On one, I tapped a
7/16 coarse thread, and after talking to Bruce at Healey Surgeons tapped the
other to 7/16 20 fine. Both snugged up nicely with as much torque as I
could put with a socket wrench.
Question-----should I feel comfortable with the holding power of the new
bolts -- especially the coarse thread one? Both are grade 8.
BTW, I could have heli coiled the last one but opted to re-thread to the
7/16 20 one.
TIA
tom
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:14:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
It's hard to diagnose at a distance, but from your description, I would
suspect a problem in the valve-train - possibly a sticking valve or lifter.
Before the car is driven a lot more, I'd suggest that the rocker assembly be
checked for possible damage, and that the valve clearance adjustments be
carefully checked.
You need to rule out a few things here, or you could do some expensive
damage!
Good luck
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Dear Listers,
Yesterday, I experienced the first bad sound on my normally perfect sounding
BJ8.
While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if something came lose in the
engine department and the car was making a clicking / ticking sound that
increased in speed when revving. At idle it could be heard lightly, but
became very loud while driving, as if something was hitting the wheel, but
then inside the engine.
As I was close by home I drove back, carefully watching both the oil
pressure and the temperature. These 2 remained very normal. Once driving a
bit more the sound disappeared (I did engage the overdrive once being
suspicious it would be an overdrive problem).
I have searched the archive and did not find anything similar. I am sure
there is someone out there that experienced something similar and that can
assure me it is not too serious.
Summer is here, would like to have my car on the road and not at the
mechanics,
Thanks in advance and regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Healey Coupe 1954
BJ8 1966
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:18:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Shock Mount Concern
the main danger with shock mounts is if the bolts are
coming loose regularly - either the bolts will come
loose from their spot welded mounts or the bracket
itself will show signs of cyclical stress and crack on
the seams or bends. The best thing to do is to give
the bolts a firm (but not to firm) seating every 5-10
thousand miles with a wrench and that should be good.
the grade 8 or grade 5 bolts are more than sufficient
here - there's actually very little stress on the
shock mount bolts - just cyclical stress, but very low
amounts of it. the weakness in the link is the shock
mount plate, not the bolts.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- tom felts <tfelts@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Within the last two years I have put new shock
> mounts on my BJ8. On the
> right one, one bolt stripped and a bigger bolt was
> put in---by someone in
> Austria. Recently two outboard bolts in the other
> side stripped.
>
> I occasionally check them for tightness and put very
> little torque on them.
>
> When I pulled them there looked to be grade 5 bolts.
> On one, I tapped a
> 7/16 coarse thread, and after talking to Bruce at
> Healey Surgeons tapped the
> other to 7/16 20 fine. Both snugged up nicely with
> as much torque as I
> could put with a socket wrench.
>
> Question-----should I feel comfortable with the
> holding power of the new
> bolts -- especially the coarse thread one? Both are
> grade 8.
>
> BTW, I could have heli coiled the last one but opted
> to re-thread to the
> 7/16 20 one.
>
> TIA
> tom
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:26:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Ideas to check out:
Does the sound vary with engine speed when the car's in neutral and standing
still? That would indicate the problem's in the engine.
See if the fan's hitting something with the engine running. BE CAREFUL!
Does the radiator move?
Loosen the fan belt. Does it still sound? Then it's probably in the valve
train. Maybe next it's time to take off the valve cover & see if anything
jumps out at you. Does the water pump wobble.
Loosen the spark plug boots and leave them sitting on the plugs. Wear rubber
goves and take insulated pliers and remove the boots one at a time. Rev the
engine. See if this makes a difference in which cylinder makes a sound. A
variation on this would be to maybe try running it for brief periods without
each plug in place. Use all this to figure which cylinder is causing the
problem. Listen in each plug hole with a tube.
Run a compression test. Don't forget to block the throttle open and
disconnect the primary coil wire.
If you do all this and isolate which cylinder's making the sound--well,
then, you probably have a sticking valve.
Just some ideas to check out.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
> Yesterday, I experienced the first bad sound on my normally perfect sounding
> BJ8.
> While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if something came lose in the
> engine department and the car was making a clicking / ticking sound that
> increased in speed when revving.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:53:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Many things can cause this sound, some not to worry
about, others bad. A few suggestions:
1) Clicking squeeking sound (sometimes goes away after
a while)- This is a common symptom on six cylinder
cars caused by the rocker shaft - it's very long and
sometimes gunk gets up there and plugs up one or two
of the rocker arm oil feeding holes and one or two of
the rocker arms gets light on oil and squeeks or
clicks. This usually isn't too serious and can
usually be ignored unless you are uptight about these
sorts of things.
2) Clicking - Probably not a stuck lifter or stuck
valve as you would get more than just clicking, but a
bad running motor - did the engine run worse during
the clicking? If so, maybe this is it, but not
likely.
3) Clicking that goes away after a while - Were you
low on oil at the time (or under high power/ high
revs?)?? If so, you may have spun a main bearing. If
the engine block is making alot of noise when running,
but still seems to run relatively smoothly, then a
spun bearing may be the culprit. A good check here is
to remove the oil filter and see if there is metal
shavings in the oil filter. If so, you probably spun
a bearing.
My bet it is number 1 - meaning there's nothing to
worry about.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bruno Verstraete <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> Yesterday, I experienced the first bad sound on my
> normally perfect sounding
> BJ8.
> While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if
> something came lose in the
> engine department and the car was making a clicking
> / ticking sound that
> increased in speed when revving. At idle it could be
> heard lightly, but
> became very loud while driving, as if something was
> hitting the wheel, but
> then inside the engine.
>
> As I was close by home I drove back, carefully
> watching both the oil
> pressure and the temperature. These 2 remained very
> normal. Once driving a
> bit more the sound disappeared (I did engage the
> overdrive once being
> suspicious it would be an overdrive problem).
>
> I have searched the archive and did not find
> anything similar. I am sure
> there is someone out there that experienced
> something similar and that can
> assure me it is not too serious.
>
> Summer is here, would like to have my car on the
> road and not at the
> mechanics,
>
> Thanks in advance and regards,
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> Healey Coupe 1954
> BJ8 1966
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 18:59:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Shock Mount Concern
I just fixed two striped shock mount nuts last week. I used a helicoil kit and
installed new grade 8 bolts all around along with new lock washers with plain
washers underneath. I believe some of the loosening comes from the shock body
being so soft that the lock washer digs in after awhile. I'll see if the plain
washer helps in that regard.
Cheers,
John
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from time to time. Having such details collected together on many cars can
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:04:52 -0700
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Fw:_Cloisonn=E9_bonnet_=28hood=29_badges_up_to_w
Of course, it's hard by inspection of the cars now to make definite statements
of old part/new part cutoff points on parts that could have easily been
changed at some point during the life of a ~35 year old car, but the record of
current configuration shows the following. The date(s) of manufacture of each
car are given where recorded. You can draw your own conclusions about what
the "changeover point" for the nose badge was. This scatter is typical of
most of the construction details on BJ8s as recorded in the data. There would
appear to be no clean "changeover" on anything.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
27283
painted
27658
cloison
28020
cloison
28096
cloison
28257
cloison
(28 - 29 Jul 64)
28442
cloison
28548
cloison
28581
cloison
28735
cloison
(28 - 31 Aug 64)
28887
cloison
28911
cloison
28984
cloison
29156
cloison
29432
cloison
(16 - 20 Oct 64)
29859
cloison
30469
cloison
30589
cloison
30674
cloison
31487
cloison
(27 - 28 Apr 65)
31494
cloison
31827
cloison
32046
cloison
32227
cloison
32342
cloison
32483
cloison
32489
cloison
(5 Aug 65)
32653
cloison
32718
cloison
(20 Aug - 1 Sep 65)
33202
cloison
(28 Sep - 4 Oct 65)
33288
cloison
33437
painted
(13 - 14 Oct 65)
33502
cloison
(19 - 20 Oct 65)
33642
cloison
33951
cloison
34187
cloison
34481
cloison
35080
cloison
35168
painted
(24 - 25 Feb 66)
35223
cloison
35286
cloison
35453
cloison
35603
cloison
(30 - 31 Mar 66)
35791
painted
(6 - 7 Apr 66)
35824
cloison
36081
cloison
(27 - 28 Apr 66)
36111
cloison
(27 - 28 Apr 66)
36175
cloison
36264
cloison
36354
cloison
36567
cloison
36596
cloison
36666
cloison
(6 June 66)
36668
cloison
36671
cloison
(27 May - 1 Jun 66)
36865
cloison
37047
cloison
(22 - 23 Jun 66)
37151
cloison
37465
cloison
37751
painted
37833
cloison
38113
painted
38125
painted
(31 Aug - 1 Sep 66)
38139
cloison
(2 Sep 66)
38184
cloison
(9 - 16 Sep 66)
38195
painted
38206
painted
38244
painted
(23 - 26 Sep 66)
38291
painted
38348
painted
38381
painted
38405
cloison
38427
painted
(4 - 5 Oct 66)
38460
painted
38505
painted
38556
cloison
38735
painted
(18 Oct - 17 Nov 66)
38748
painted
(25 - 26 Oct 66)
38870
painted
39040
painted
39407
painted
(29 Nov - 14 Dec 66)
39453
cloison
39478
painted
(30 Nov 66 - 5 Jan 67) badge has been replaced
39603
cloison
(7 - 8 Dec 66)
39641
cloison
39939
painted
39947
cloison
40001
cloison
(3 - 10 Jan 67)
40045
painted
40150
painted
(13 - 16 Jan 67)
40234
cloison
(18 - 20 Jan 67)
40421
painted
(30 - 31 Jan 67)
40429
painted
(orig painted, now cloison)
40429
cloison
40644
painted
40964
painted
(8 - 9 Mar 67)
41065
painted
41070
painted
41096
cloison
41204
painted
41224
painted
(28 - 29 Mar 67)
41243
cloison
41393
painted
41564
painted
(5 - 8 May 67)
41618
painted
41637
painted
(18 - 19 May 67)
41672
painted
(24 - 31 May 67)
41695
painted
41737
painted
41869
painted
41889
painted
41916
cloison
(27 - 28 Jun 67)
41934
cloison
42114
painted
(XX Aug 67)
42179
painted
42226
cloison
(8 - 9 Aug 67)
42325
painted
42451
painted
(7 - 13 Sep 67)
42468
cloison
(7 - 13 Sep 67)
42483
painted
42521
painted
(12 - 13 Sep 67)
42623
painted
(22 - 25 Sep 67)
42667
painted
42683
cloison
(2 - 12 Oct 67)
42778
painted
42841
painted
(24 - 26 Oct 67)
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:53:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: steering cross rod
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 22:47:20 -0500
Subject: BN1 Exhaust Manifold
I took off the exhaust manifold tonight to fix a leak at the down pipe and
put on a new exhaust system. As I suspected the manifold to down pipe studs
are long gone and in their place were a few bolts and nuts of various sizes
left by one of the many previous owners. I cut the bolts off to separate
the exhaust pipe and what was left were large crudely cut oblong holes in
the flange. Can a machine shop weld up these holes and tap new threads for
suds in them or is there a better way to fix it? Help appreciated.
Mark
BN1 Nashville
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: stainless hydraulic hoses
Cheers,
ALan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> Ken,
>
> Both Dennis Welch and Cape International in UK both
> have listings for the
> brake hoses, I'm sure they could make up the clutch
> hose, too.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
>
> In a message dated 6/5/02 6:22:01 PM,
> Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com writes:
>
> <<Does anyone offer replacement stainless hoses for
> the brakes and the clutch
> on a BJ8?
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8>>
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 06:52:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Cloisonné bonnet (hood) badges up to which car number?
>>
>My BJ8 is June 1967, and I'm not sure which side if the watershed I
>fall. When I bought my car there was no colour at all - just plain
>chrome ((keen PO with a lust for polishing, methinks. or perhaps it just
>cooked off in Palm Springs!). Does this suggest it was painted, or does
>cloisonni fall off just as easily?
>
>My lady is car number L/41672. Can anyone identify cars around this
>number with whether they were cloisonni or painted? Perhaps we can pin
>the transition down to a precise car. Maybe someone has done so already.
>
>I have painted mine, but much prefer cloisonni, and will re-do it if
>that is correct for my car.
>
>TIA as always....
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 05:05:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: there is a difference at the steering wheel
The restoration of my BJ8 is going on well and I am at
the point that I am looking for the steeering wheel. I
realised, that there is a difference between the
original moto lita and the replikas you can buy. see
http://195.58.186.40/healey
Does anybody know, where I could get anoriginal one?
Did you realise the same differences?
happy healeying, Martin
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 05:12:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: There is a difference at the steering wheel!
http://195.58.186.40/healey
Does anybody know, where I could get anoriginal one?
Did you realise the same differences?
happy healeying, Martin
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 08:53:20 EDT
Subject: Cam work
-----------------------------------------
Do you know anybody that can build and grind a cam for a BJ8. I have found a
good one from Bobby Hadskey in Memphis (do you know any thing about his parts
business?) a company in OR can build it up and grind one, but the cost is too
high.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 09:58:11 -0400
Subject: Water valve position query
After four weeks of deftly applying Liquid Wrench and gentle pressure, I
finally succeeded in moving the little water valve on the right-hand side of
the head on my 1960 BT7. My guess is that this petcock hasn't been turned in
40+ years!
When I got the car, the little handle on the valve was missing, but I
threaded-in a nice stainless steel screw that came off a submarine radio
that I recently cannibalized to restore another (aboard the USS Albacore).
(BTW: I mentioned to my wife that this event made my day, but she didn't
seem impressed. Oh well).
Anyway, can someone kindly tell me which way is "open?"
I assume (you know the meaning of that word) that when the handle is at
right angles to the hose (pointing towards the wing) that it's closed, and
when the handle is in line with the hose (pointing down) that it's open.
I haven't been able to test the heater properly yet, and to complicate
matters, the heater blower is extremely noisy. I plan on pulling it out and
inspecting it to try and find the source of the noise. Has anyone tinkered
with these blowers? if so, your thoughts and observations would be much
appreciated.
Thanks! == Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 10:13:00 -0400
Subject: Mallory Dual Point Distributor
Best regards, Joe
55 BN1
60 BT7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 15:15:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Same key for ignition, glove box, and boot (trunk) on
Jim,
My car came with one key, that fitted the doors, ignition and glove box.
No key for the boot - I had to dismantle the lock to find the number
stamp, then get a key cut for it.
In my slow progress towards originality, I'd like to get the keys
properly sorted, but I've had three views so far - one to say just the
boot key is different, one saying everything should be on one key, and
you saying they are all different!
Anyone else want to weigh in to swing the balance??!!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 09:23:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Same key for ignition, glove box, and boot (trunk) on
The ignition and glove box cylinders both have numbers on them. You could
compare all of the numbers or order keys off of the numbers, then compare keys.
It could be that on my car one or more of the locks were replaced over
time. I do not know if the car originally had different keys for the boot
and glove box just that it came that way when I purchased it.
Best regards.
Jim
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:16:41 -0400
Subject: RE: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Years ago my Healey, a 1967 BJ8, developed an ignition miss at high RPMs.
After replacing the ignition wiring (which cured it) I went out for a test
drive. In gear (don't recall which), I rev'd the engine up to the orange
sector on the tach when---ka-BAM!--the windscreen was covered with water. I
thought I blew the engine.
What happened was that the original fan, which I had never removed or
serviced, flew apart. A major-sized piece exited out the wheel well on the
left-hand side, tearing a gash in the wing cowl down there. Of course, the
water pump and radiator were demolished.
Check your fan for tightness, and to see that it's properly centered. Just a
thought.
Good luck!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bruno Verstraete
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 1:09 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Dear Listers,
Yesterday, I experienced the first bad sound on my normally perfect sounding
BJ8.
While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if something came lose in the
engine department and the car was making a clicking / ticking sound that
increased in speed when revving. At idle it could be heard lightly, but
became very loud while driving, as if something was hitting the wheel, but
then inside the engine.
As I was close by home I drove back, carefully watching both the oil
pressure and the temperature. These 2 remained very normal. Once driving a
bit more the sound disappeared (I did engage the overdrive once being
suspicious it would be an overdrive problem).
I have searched the archive and did not find anything similar. I am sure
there is someone out there that experienced something similar and that can
assure me it is not too serious.
Summer is here, would like to have my car on the road and not at the
mechanics,
Thanks in advance and regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Healey Coupe 1954
BJ8 1966
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:29:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Same key for ignition, glove box, and boot (trunk) on
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:41:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Water valve position query
> when the handle is in line with the hose (pointing down) that it's open.
>
Actually when the handle is in line with the hose is correct, but it should
be point up in the direction of the heater behind the firewall.
A neighbor machined one of the "bat shaped" handles out of brass for a spare
water control valve that I have and unless my memory is failing me too, the
thread is 10-20. The hard part is tapping out the old broken off piece
without messing up the threads. This person is really great at machining
small items because he works on primitive weapons as a hobby.
I asked Don Lenschow about making some of these at one point in time.
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From STOCKLAND at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 10:52:03 EDT
Subject: Brake Booster
Jon
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:07:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Water valve position query
----- Original Message -----
From: <MBran89793@aol.com>
To: <alexmm@adelphia.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <Drtrite@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: Water valve position query
> A neighbor machined one of the "bat shaped" handles out of brass for a
spare
> water control valve that I have and unless my memory is failing me too,
the
> thread is 10-20. The hard part is tapping out the old broken off piece
> without messing up the threads. .
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 08:14:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Water valve position query
Your assumption about the water valve lever position is correct.
With the lever handle from the sub installed, I guess that your Healey will
run better underwater!
The blower motor is usually serviceable. I had a real noisy blower in our
MGB awhile back - thought it was thoroughly trashed. Turned out to be a
leaf (as in tree) that got past the debris screen (which had slipped
partially out of the way) that the spinning cage was contacting! Real easy
fix.
More likely, you will need to clean and lube the shaft/bushing area of the
blower motor - it's pretty obvious when you get it apart. One caution - be
gentle - the bakelite housing is easy to break!
For other listers trying to free up a water valve: a gentle tap or two with
a light hammer on the spring end of the shaft (as if to compress the spring
a bit more) generally breaks them loose quickly - it momentarily unseats the
ball in the body. This'll work for all three of the water valves. (on the 6
cyl car). I'll credit Bill Bolton with that tip - he passed it on a few
years back.
I guess we can't really blame our wives for being a bit less than
enthusiastic about our successes with these old cars after listening to us
for all these years. After awhile, their eyes tend to glaze - they really
just want to know if the car'll get there! Fair enough, I'd say.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex" <alexmm@adelphia.net>
To: "Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 6:58 AM
Subject: Water valve position query
Hi folks:
After four weeks of deftly applying Liquid Wrench and gentle pressure, I
finally succeeded in moving the little water valve on the right-hand side of
the head on my 1960 BT7. My guess is that this petcock hasn't been turned in
40+ years!
When I got the car, the little handle on the valve was missing, but I
threaded-in a nice stainless steel screw that came off a submarine radio
that I recently cannibalized to restore another (aboard the USS Albacore).
(BTW: I mentioned to my wife that this event made my day, but she didn't
seem impressed. Oh well).
Anyway, can someone kindly tell me which way is "open?"
I assume (you know the meaning of that word) that when the handle is at
right angles to the hose (pointing towards the wing) that it's closed, and
when the handle is in line with the hose (pointing down) that it's open.
I haven't been able to test the heater properly yet, and to complicate
matters, the heater blower is extremely noisy. I plan on pulling it out and
inspecting it to try and find the source of the noise. Has anyone tinkered
with these blowers? if so, your thoughts and observations would be much
appreciated.
Thanks! == Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
/
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:14:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Cam work
- Chinese Proverb
> I received the following from a local club member and wondered if anyone on
> the list could help him out in this? Thanks.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> -----------------------------------------
> Do you know anybody that can build and grind a cam for a BJ8. I have found a
> good one from Bobby Hadskey in Memphis (do you know any thing about his parts
> business?) a company in OR can build it up and grind one, but the cost is too
> high.
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 12:02:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Water valve position query
The blower fan is something you should be warned about.
First these things can be a bear to reinstall, particularly if you are
fitting new ducts. The bends in the ducts are very tight for that type
of material and if you install the ducts before installing the blower
you will find it very difficult to line up the 4 screws with the fender
on.
BTW one question that I have never been able to resolve on the assembly
sequence for a Healey is when the vent and blower hoses were installed.
It seems to be virtually impossible to install the hoses and blower with
the fender installed but it is equally impossible to reach some of the
fender bolts with the ducts installed. (I bet Roger knows :-))
If you intend to disassemble the blower be very careful of the bakelite
case. The screws that hold the bits together go into nuts that are
restrained from turning by hexagonal recesses in the casing. If the
threads are seized the nut will break the casing as it turns. New cases
are available but they are very expensive.
Good luck!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: 6-Jun-02 9:58 AM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Water valve position query
Hi folks:
After four weeks of deftly applying Liquid Wrench and gentle pressure, I
finally succeeded in moving the little water valve on the right-hand
side of
the head on my 1960 BT7. My guess is that this petcock hasn't been
turned in
40+ years!
When I got the car, the little handle on the valve was missing, but I
threaded-in a nice stainless steel screw that came off a submarine radio
that I recently cannibalized to restore another (aboard the USS
Albacore).
(BTW: I mentioned to my wife that this event made my day, but she didn't
seem impressed. Oh well).
Anyway, can someone kindly tell me which way is "open?"
I assume (you know the meaning of that word) that when the handle is at
right angles to the hose (pointing towards the wing) that it's closed,
and
when the handle is in line with the hose (pointing down) that it's open.
I haven't been able to test the heater properly yet, and to complicate
matters, the heater blower is extremely noisy. I plan on pulling it out
and
inspecting it to try and find the source of the noise. Has anyone
tinkered
with these blowers? if so, your thoughts and observations would be much
appreciated.
Thanks! == Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:05:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Can anyone help identify a screw/head used on my BJ8?
FYI, These are called Jackson head screws and are available from other
sources as well. (maybe not chromed, but SS sould be no problem)
I've had #8 with #6 heads (#8 Jackson head) chromed and used on the door
panels of my 100.
Ed A.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 12:30:14 EDT
Subject: Re:
"A painted version of the MarkIII and Wings emblem was introduced to replace
the cloisonne badge sometime around September 1966."
But if I were judging, I probably wouldn't deduct for either version of the
badge for cars produced in 1966. I'd be inclined to deduct a small amount for
cars produced in 1967 that didn't have the painted badge.
Empirical evidence is always interesting.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 12:53:55 EDT
Subject: Room available for Open Roads 2002
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 17:11:56 +0000
Subject: heart warming story
> Truly a heart warming story about the bond formed
between a little girl
and
> some construction workers. This makes you want to
believe in the goodness
of
> people and believe there is hope for the human race.
>
> A young family moved into a house next door to a
vacant lot. One day a
> construction crew turned up to start building a house
on the empty lot.
>
> The young family's 6-year-old daughter naturally took
an interest in all
the
> activity going on next door and started talking with
the workers.
>
> She hung around and eventually the construction crew,
gems-in-the-rough,
all
> of them, more or less adopted her as a kind of project
mascot.
>
> They chatted with her, let her sit with them while
they had coffee and
lunch
> breaks, and gave her little jobs to do here and there
to make her feel
> important.
>
> At the end of the first week they even presented her
with a pay envelope
> containing a dollar. The little girl took this home to
her mother who said
> all the appropriate words of admiration and suggested
that they take the
> dollar pay she had received to the bank the next day
to start a savings
> account.
>
> When they got to the bank the teller was equally
impressed with the story
> and asked the little girl how she had come by her very
own pay check at
such
> a young age. The little girl proudly replied, "I've
been working with a
crew
> building a house all week."
>
> "My goodness gracious," said the teller, "and will you
be working on the
> house again this week too?"
>
> She replied "I will if those useless sons of bitches
at the lumber yard
ever
> bring us any drywall that's worth a shit."
>
>
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 17:44:24 +0000
Subject: cheao hotel in Tahoe
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:46:53 -0400
Subject: Water valve position and USS Albacore
To see what's up in the sub Albacore's radio room, and to glimpse a mug shot
(be warned) of yours truly, go to:
http://www.antiquewireless.org/otb/albacore.htm
== Alex
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: Bullard, Ran [mailto:RanBullard@Clearchannel.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 12:53 PM
To: 'Alex'
Subject: RE: Water valve position query
Congratulations on breaking the valve loose! Usually, when the operating
handle is 90 degrees to the water line, the valve is SHUT. (Aboard a sub,
there's no such word as "closed"--sounds too much like "open" in a noisy
environment). :-) So what's up with the old Albacore? I served aboard the
Triton, SSN-586, as an ET back in the early sixties. Now, I'm doing a
frame-off restoration of my '67 BJ8. See you at Tahoe?
Ran Bullard
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex [mailto:alexmm@adelphia.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 6:58 AM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Water valve position query
Hi folks:
After four weeks of deftly applying Liquid Wrench and gentle pressure, I
finally succeeded in moving the little water valve on the right-hand side of
the head on my 1960 BT7. My guess is that this petcock hasn't been turned in
40+ years!
When I got the car, the little handle on the valve was missing, but I
threaded-in a nice stainless steel screw that came off a submarine radio
that I recently cannibalized to restore another (aboard the USS Albacore).
(BTW: I mentioned to my wife that this event made my day, but she didn't
seem impressed. Oh well).
Anyway, can someone kindly tell me which way is "open?"
I assume (you know the meaning of that word) that when the handle is at
right angles to the hose (pointing towards the wing) that it's closed, and
when the handle is in line with the hose (pointing down) that it's open.
I haven't been able to test the heater properly yet, and to complicate
matters, the heater blower is extremely noisy. I plan on pulling it out and
inspecting it to try and find the source of the noise. Has anyone tinkered
with these blowers? if so, your thoughts and observations would be much
appreciated.
Thanks! == Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 11:07:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Water valve position query
On both of my cars, when the heater water valve is 'on', its handle points
down. All the illustrations I've seen have it the same way.
Mike, this one valve is logical - inline with the hose is 'on' - 90 degrees
is 'off'. Both the block drain valve and the radiator drain valve are
'opposite', being British.
When I assembled the tri-carb, I had the ducts in before the fenders were
on. I had to remove the grille to blower duct in order to get the fender
bolts in and tightened, and then fight with the duct to get it back on, a
truly ugly job, even though it was the original duct!
The people that assembled these cars at the factory must have been
double-jointed.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@rogers.com>
To: "'Alex'" <alexmm@adelphia.net>; "'Healeys (E-mail)'"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: Water valve position query
I can't remember for sure about the direction of the handle but I have a
feeling that it is the opposite of the logical answer. It is of course
British!!
The blower fan is something you should be warned about.
First these things can be a bear to reinstall, particularly if you are
fitting new ducts. The bends in the ducts are very tight for that type
of material and if you install the ducts before installing the blower
you will find it very difficult to line up the 4 screws with the fender
on.
BTW one question that I have never been able to resolve on the assembly
sequence for a Healey is when the vent and blower hoses were installed.
It seems to be virtually impossible to install the hoses and blower with
the fender installed but it is equally impossible to reach some of the
fender bolts with the ducts installed. (I bet Roger knows :-))
If you intend to disassemble the blower be very careful of the bakelite
case. The screws that hold the bits together go into nuts that are
restrained from turning by hexagonal recesses in the casing. If the
threads are seized the nut will break the casing as it turns. New cases
are available but they are very expensive.
Good luck!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: 6-Jun-02 9:58 AM
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Subject: Water valve position query
Hi folks:
After four weeks of deftly applying Liquid Wrench and gentle pressure, I
finally succeeded in moving the little water valve on the right-hand
side of
the head on my 1960 BT7. My guess is that this petcock hasn't been
turned in
40+ years!
When I got the car, the little handle on the valve was missing, but I
threaded-in a nice stainless steel screw that came off a submarine radio
that I recently cannibalized to restore another (aboard the USS
Albacore).
(BTW: I mentioned to my wife that this event made my day, but she didn't
seem impressed. Oh well).
Anyway, can someone kindly tell me which way is "open?"
I assume (you know the meaning of that word) that when the handle is at
right angles to the hose (pointing towards the wing) that it's closed,
and
when the handle is in line with the hose (pointing down) that it's open.
I haven't been able to test the heater properly yet, and to complicate
matters, the heater blower is extremely noisy. I plan on pulling it out
and
inspecting it to try and find the source of the noise. Has anyone
tinkered
with these blowers? if so, your thoughts and observations would be much
appreciated.
Thanks! == Alex in Kennebunk, Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 11:07:32 -0700
Subject: OpenRoads 2002 - FAQs
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 14:25:39 -0400
Subject: Re: heart warming story
Cheers
John Slade
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 16:35:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Bruno Verstraete wrote:
>
> While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if something came lose in the
> engine department and the car was making a clicking / ticking sound that
> increased in speed when revving. At idle it could be heard lightly, but
> became very loud while driving, as if something was hitting the wheel, but
> then inside the engine.
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 16:35:09 -0400
Subject: Re: sticky windows
Remove the inner door panel, handles, etc.
Remove the window lift mechanism. Leave the glass in place and gently
lower to the bottom. (On the Jensen, by the way, the trick to getting
the window lift out, without undoing too much, is to remove the bolt
that holds the
bottom of the front vertical track, through the bottom of the door.
Then the mechanism comes out. It isnt the door skin that is your
problem, its
the front track.)
Clean and lube the track on the Bottom of the glass. the one that the
window lift arm moves in. Clean the window lift mechanism,
straightening any bent parts. Yes, it does happen. Clean the gearbox.
I use a solvent
like kerosene. Dry and lube everything, and pack that gearbox like you
would
a wheel bearing. Lube the tracks on the bottom of the glass, as well as
the end
of the window lift arm that runs in it.
Clean the vertical tracks too, while you are at it, as they are easy to
get to.
If any of the 3 nylon window guides are broken, then you should replace
them, but that multiplies this job by 7.3.
This is also a good time to make sure you have a good moisture barrier
between the metal door and your inner panel.
John May.
"Thomas L. Blaskovics" wrote:
> Evening listers,
> I am looking for suggestions besides soapy water to
> loosen up the grooves for me windows to slide up and down
> more easily.
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From GNpaper at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 16:56:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Excessive Oil Pressure
Thanks in advance for any suggestions,
Dan Brooks
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 16:17:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8( tx kooler )
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:20:29 -0700
Subject: RE: Water valve position query
2. Are there any parts suppliers in Canada that carry Texas Coolers?
TIA
Rob White
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 15:13:36 -0700
Subject: Hats
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 16:40:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Worrying clicking engine sound BJ8
Agree with you, the gasket between the headers and exhaust on my Morgan 4/4 has
a
small hole, the sound emanating from it sounds like tappets clicking.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
John May wrote:
> You would be amazed at how much a small leak in the exhaust flange
> gasket, at the bottom (output) of the exhaust manifold, sounds like a
> metal to metal
> ticking. I chased this like crazy on a 350 Camaro once, suspected
> lifter, etc, and
> that was it. My BJ8 did it last summer too, and that was it. This year
> it was
> the 75 Jensen, that has a cast iron exhaust manifold. Had the same
> symptom
> with a Scirocco once too. I was dumb and did a lot of extra work taking
> apart
> the Camaro. Have saved a lot of work on the others.
> John May
>
> Bruno Verstraete wrote:
>
> >
> > While driving uphill, it suddenly sounded as if something came lose in the
> > engine department and the car was making a clicking / ticking sound that
> > increased in speed when revving. At idle it could be heard lightly, but
> > became very loud while driving, as if something was hitting the wheel, but
> > then inside the engine.
>
> /
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 17:23:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Water valve position query
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 18:45:16 -0400
Subject: RE: Transmission Noise
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 20:57:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Booster
The brake booster was standard equipment on all BJ8s,
I'm suprised your car doesn't have one on it. I
believe the previous owner must have removed it.
Adding a brake booster is quite easy, particularly if
you are adding an original set up. You will need the
following parts:
1) original brake booster (available used or rebuilt)
2) brake booster brackets (available new)
3) steel brake line (available new)
4) brake master cylinder (available new)
All the parts should simply be bolt up to your BJ8.
The brake booster makes the healey a much greater
pleasure to drive.
regards,
alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- STOCKLAND@aol.com wrote:
> I have a BJ8 and am thinking of adding a break
> booster. The original auto
> came without one and I am wondering how big a deal
> it will be to do this.
> Thanks for your comments.
>
> Jon
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 11:07:25 EDT
Subject: test
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From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at tycohealthcare.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 11:55:48 -0400
Subject: RE: PPG question
I would be cautious when interpreting the specification for DUI. While PPG
says that DUI does not need to be clear-coated, keep in mind that on a
modern car, the areas painted with DUI-type paint do not get exposed to much
of anything. On the Healey, you need a tough paint on the chassis for both
rust protection and chip resistance.
In my opinion, you may be better off using a single-stage paint that is
matched to the base coat of your choice, be it DBU or DBC. If you are
using a metallic paint, the single-stage gets tricky but on the chassis, I
doubt that any metallic mottling will be visible enough to be an issue.
BTW, DBC is a better product than DBU as it has much less orange peel. The
main advantage of DBU was the reactive reducer which helped it lock down
quicker. Even so, DBC, in my opinion, is better. I believe that PPG is
now offering a reactive reducer with DBC as well but I haven't tried that.
Just another data point.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: joe mulqueen [mailto:joemulqueen@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: PPG question
Hello,
For those familiar with current paint tech - PPG
offers both DBU (base coat which reqs a clear coat)
and DUI (used for interiors/underhood and doesn't req
clear coat).
Has anyone used DUI (or equiv from other mfgrs) on the
chassis/monocoque?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 07:51:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Hats X 3
62 BT7 wrote:
> Hey Ron,
>
> I have three, so, does that make me soooo. soooo. sooo, cool ????
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 3:13 PM
> Subject: Hats
>
> > I have one and now I am soooo cool!
> > Ron
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:01:18 EDT
Subject: List Hat
Michael
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 22:07:33 -0400
Subject: re water valve
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 07:39:10 -0700
Subject: RE: Transmission Problems/Tx Cooler
Regards,
Rob White
BJ8
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From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:10:55 -0400
Subject: Question For Canadian AH sheetmetal purchasers
I'll be starting on the chassis and sheetmetal work on my '64 BJ8 and had a
question for those people located in Canada regarding parts sources. Out of
the usual subjects, which sources are best for cost in terms of purchase
price and shipping? Kilmartin seems like a good deal for the cost of parts
(due to favourable exchange rates with CAN$), but what are the costs
associate with shipping? Is it just better to stick with the US sources? I'm
very price sensitive, so that is my primary criteria.
If ordering from Kilmartin, is it better to go through local distributors,
US distributors, or direct?
Parts I'll be looking for are outriggers, rear frame components, fender
patch panels, etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ross.
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:24:21 EDT
Subject: Healey Streamliner
> I don't
> think that the vehicle had a serial number plate because it was so
> "Special"
> so you don't have to concern yourself or your accountant with this detail.
>
>
The serial number (SPL261 BN and engine number XSP 234-6) can be found on
page 125 of "The Healey Book." Specifications for the car except the weight
are included.
The book will be available for sale at Tahoe.
Bill Emerson
Author
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 14:40:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Hats X 3
Ron Rader wrote:
> KirK
> abso so so lutly
> ron R
>
> 62 BT7 wrote:
>
> > Hey Ron,
> >
> > I have three, so, does that make me soooo. soooo. sooo, cool ????
> >
> > Kirk Kvam
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 3:13 PM
> > Subject: Hats
> >
> > > I have one and now I am soooo cool!
> > > Ron
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 10:10:49 -0700
Subject: Test
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 13:00:10 -0600
Subject: Windshield installation tips?
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 14:33:13 -0600
Subject: 100M conversion
Couple of questions;
Where should the 30 inch long carb vent tubes be routed. My new tubes
now make a downward turn from the float bowel top & then go nearly 30
inches straight down.
How, where, & how much do you bend the LH cowl vertical support bracket
to line up with the new longer ( further outboard) top bracket.
Thanks all for tour help,
Dave Russell
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 16:44:14 EDT
Subject: Re: List Caps
I presented Alex the "List Cap" this morning as a small retirement gift (his
last work day today) and I received the biggest hug and kiss. :-}
Helga BN7
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From "mgnut" <mgnut at charter.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 17:46:23 -0400
Subject: 8th Annual British Car Festival - 9/7-9/8, 2002
Guest of Honor...John Twist of University Motors LTD, Grand Rapids, MI. is the
leading authority on MG's, British Cars and Technical Writer and Advisor to MG
Magazine, American MGB Association, and many other national and international
British Car Publications.
We have scheduled one main event for Saturday, September 7th. A Funkhana will
be held at the Ardie Dillen Industrial Park in Tipton starting at 12:30 pm.
You must pre-register for the event. You also won't want to miss the Saturday
night pig roast dinner and desserts at our President's home.
On Sunday, September 8th it's off to Delgrosso's Amusement Park. Registration
will begin at 10 am. Sunday is simply a day of showing your car and enjoying
the friendship of other British Car enthusiasts. Good food, rides, mini-golf,
go-karts and prizes..and NO Judging!! All British Cars are welcome, any
condition. John Twist will be present all weekend.
Pre-registration prices (good till August 30th) are as follows:
Entire Weekend @ $22.50 per person includes:
Friday 9/6: Hospitality suite at the Day's Inn (BYOB)
Saturday 9/7: Funkhana, Pig Roast & Desserts Bonfire party.
Sunday 9/8: Car show, Goodie Bag, Chicken Dinner, DelGrosso Sauces gift pack,
All Day Ride pass, Miniature Golf pass, and prizes.
Sunday only @ $15.00 per person includes:
Car show, Goodie Bag, Chicken Dinner, DelGrosso Sauces gift pack, All Day Ride
pass, Miniature Golf pass, and prizes.
Please email us at mgnut@charter.net and will be send you our brochure or
answer any questions that you may have.
Thanks
Jim & Lori Pastore
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 16:56:58 -0700
Subject: My chassis is back!
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at tycohealthcare.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 12:12:59 -0400
Subject: RE: Cam work
I have used Delta Cams and was pleased with their work. I think it cost me
$48 for a stock regrind. Turn-around was three days and they are (were?)
in Tacoma, WA.
I have also heard good things about Lunati but don't know their pricing.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: CAWS52803@aol.com [mailto:CAWS52803@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 5:53 AM
To: british-cars@autox.team.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Cam work
I received the following from a local club member and wondered if anyone on
the list could help him out in this? Thanks.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-----------------------------------------
Do you know anybody that can build and grind a cam for a BJ8. I have found
a
good one from Bobby Hadskey in Memphis (do you know any thing about his
parts
business?) a company in OR can build it up and grind one, but the cost is
too
high.
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 11:09:53 -0700
Subject: High Court Upholds Brown Sports Car Ban
Washington, D.C.
n an overwhelming seven-to-two vote, the United States Supreme Court
has upheld California's controversial ban on brown sports cars and
convertibles. Writing for the majority in California v. Datsun 280ZX
owners, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg declared that "terms like root-
beer metallic' and 'shoreline beige' are deceptive; these vehicles
are clearly brown and, as such, are visually offensive to any
reasonable person."
Only Justices Scalia and Thomas dissented, holding in part
that ". . . the remedy for execrable earth-tone paint jobs should not
be new federal laws but rather driving with one's eyes closed." The
latest case overturns two important pro-industry rulings from the
1970s: Cadillac v. Scheib, in which the U.S. Ninth Circuit found
carmakers could not be held liable for unspeakable colors applied
post-manufacture, and Michigan v. American Motors Corporation, which
granted AMC broad First Amendment protection in the case of a burnt-
ochre Gremlin.
Despite those court victories, however, American auto manufacturers
have voluntarily added warning labels to vehicles painted "misty
taupe," "burnt desert firemist," and other potentially brown colors
since 1982. In handing down this latest ruling, the Supreme Court
automatically lets stand a lower-court decision in the related case,
U.S. v. UPS.
Bill
(brown Islero, and former 76 brown metallic - Datsun colour - Interceptor)
_______________________________________________________________________
Courtesy the Jensen-cars mailing list. Subscribe and unsubscribe
info at: <http://www.british-steel.org/faq/jensen-cars.html>.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 17:28:16 -0700
Subject: Congrats Alex Z.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 20:33:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Congrats Alex Z.
Bob Denton
Bill Katz wrote:
> Just saw the KRON news about your retirement. Never knew you were an
> editor. Some nice shots of you and the Healey too!
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 17:31:33 -0700
Subject: Re: High Court Upholds Brown Sports Car Ban
----------------------
At 11:09 AM 6/7/2002, you wrote:
>High Court Upholds Brown Sports Car Ban
>
>Washington, D.C.
>
>n an overwhelming seven-to-two vote, the United States Supreme Court
>has upheld California's controversial ban on brown sports cars and
>convertibles. Writing for the majority in California v. Datsun 280ZX
>owners, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg declared that "terms like root-
>beer metallic' and 'shoreline beige' are deceptive; these vehicles
>are clearly brown and, as such, are visually offensive to any
>reasonable person."
>
>Only Justices Scalia and Thomas dissented, holding in part
>that ". . . the remedy for execrable earth-tone paint jobs should not
>be new federal laws but rather driving with one's eyes closed." The
>latest case overturns two important pro-industry rulings from the
>1970s: Cadillac v. Scheib, in which the U.S. Ninth Circuit found
>carmakers could not be held liable for unspeakable colors applied
>post-manufacture, and Michigan v. American Motors Corporation, which
>granted AMC broad First Amendment protection in the case of a burnt-
>ochre Gremlin.
>
>Despite those court victories, however, American auto manufacturers
>have voluntarily added warning labels to vehicles painted "misty
>taupe," "burnt desert firemist," and other potentially brown colors
>since 1982. In handing down this latest ruling, the Supreme Court
>automatically lets stand a lower-court decision in the related case,
>U.S. v. UPS.
>
>
>Bill
>(brown Islero, and former 76 brown metallic - Datsun colour - Interceptor)
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Nicholas Zarkades <zdesign at attbi.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 20:52:03 -0500
Subject: Brake Problems
Thanks for your help.
Nick Zarkades
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 17:49:23 -0700
Subject: Wire Wheel Balancing
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 22:05:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
--- Healeyguy@aol.com wrote: << Listers; Anyone have a marque and
model reference for the following:
Lucas 12 volt starter
25557A
M418G
Built 4/61
Got it for a friends Riley but its different then his. Aloha --Perry
>>
=====
J. Scott Morris
Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Movies, Music, Sports, Games! http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:23:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Cam work
No financial interest, just a happy customer.
John Snyder
----------
> From: Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@tycohealthcare.com>
> To: 'CAWS52803@aol.com'; british-cars@autox.team.net;
healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Cam work
> Date: Friday, June 07, 2002 9:12 AM
>
> Hi,
>
> I have used Delta Cams and was pleased with their work. I think it cost
me
> $48 for a stock regrind. Turn-around was three days and they are
(were?)
> in Tacoma, WA.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 21:37:14 -0600
Subject: 100M carb vent pipes
I recently inquired about carb float chamber vent pipes for the BN2 Le
Mans spec engine. I seem to be more confused than I thought. I purchased
a BN2 which has a partial but not completed 100M engine conversion. The
original vent pipes on my car were completely missing. Photos of the
factory publication "Austin-Healey Hundred (Model BN1), Special
Equipment and Tuning Instructions" show carb vent/overflow pipes which
are very long. The pipes which Moss Motors sent to me for the 100M are
the same as in the factory publication, about 30 inches long. Thus my
original question about routing of the long vent pipes. What do the long
pipes fit on?
Published photos of 100M engine conversions & of BN2 100M cars show a
short curved vent pipe to the cold air box & a couple of listers have
told me that theirs are the same. If this is correct was there a
difference between vent pipes for the BN1 & BN2 engine conversions? What
do I do with the long pipes that I presently have. Abandon them, cut
them off short or?
My other question still remains, how do I notch - bend the LH cowl
support to fit the extended cowl support bracket & to clear the cold air
box. The extended bracket came with the cold air box that I recently
purchased. (Engine is in car not much working room)
Sorry to be such a pain, just confused. There is not another BN2
anywhere near me that is original enough to use as a model. I have only
some photos & the Healey list for information.
Dave Russell
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From "Sooch" <Sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 23:41:10 -0500
Subject: test
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 23:10:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
I'm not sure on the semantics of long or short float
chamber vent pipes on a 100M, but the long pipes are
standard on all BN1s and BN2s. The long pipes simply
hang all the way down, they don't fix to anything, and
the long pipes are meant to clear overflowing fuel to
the pavement without getting in the engine
compartment. 6 cyl healeys use short pipes that
typically route via rubber tubes through the heat
shield on those cars. Don't cut the long pipes, they
are very useful even if 100Ms aren't supposed to have
them.
Part of the complete 100M kit is a modified shroud
bracket piece - is that what you are describing? You
can cut up and bend your current piece, but the right
way to do it is to get the proper shroud bracket.
They aren't very expensive, and you can get them from
www.britishcarspecialists.com or hemphills or any of
the healey specialist parts suppliers. Just buy a new
one and bolt it up. Maybe the one sent to you is
incorrect. You shouldn't have to muck around with the
fender mount.
Cheers,
alan
'53 BN1 (w/ 100M carbs) & '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> I recently inquired about carb float chamber vent
> pipes for the BN2 Le
> Mans spec engine. I seem to be more confused than I
> thought. I purchased
> a BN2 which has a partial but not completed 100M
> engine conversion. The
> original vent pipes on my car were completely
> missing. Photos of the
> factory publication "Austin-Healey Hundred (Model
> BN1), Special
> Equipment and Tuning Instructions" show carb
> vent/overflow pipes which
> are very long. The pipes which Moss Motors sent to
> me for the 100M are
> the same as in the factory publication, about 30
> inches long. Thus my
> original question about routing of the long vent
> pipes. What do the long
> pipes fit on?
>
> Published photos of 100M engine conversions & of BN2
> 100M cars show a
> short curved vent pipe to the cold air box & a
> couple of listers have
> told me that theirs are the same. If this is
> correct was there a
> difference between vent pipes for the BN1 & BN2
> engine conversions? What
> do I do with the long pipes that I presently have.
> Abandon them, cut
> them off short or?
>
> My other question still remains, how do I notch -
> bend the LH cowl
> support to fit the extended cowl support bracket &
> to clear the cold air
> box. The extended bracket came with the cold air box
> that I recently
> purchased. (Engine is in car not much working room)
>
> Sorry to be such a pain, just confused. There is not
> another BN2
> anywhere near me that is original enough to use as a
> model. I have only
> some photos & the Healey list for information.
>
> Dave Russell
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 23:16:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Problems
Welcome to the hallmark failure of the Girling brake
booster. Everyone who's ever had a BJ8 has had this
problem... usually when they break, the fill up with
brake fluid. Your booster needs to be rebuilt!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 (w/ two original boosters filled with
brake fluid, aftermarket PBR unit still working great
after 10 years)
--- Nicholas Zarkades <zdesign@attbi.com> wrote:
> Three weeks ago I got into my 1965 BJ8, started her
> up and started to move,
> I stepped on the brakes to slow down, no brakes. I
> have it towed to a BMC
> garage, they check it out no leaks at the drums,
> master brake cylinder or in
> the driver's side carpets. They fill with brake
> fluid and bleed the brakes,
> seems fine, however about 3 weeks later the same
> thing happens, we check it
> out, no leaks. Is it possible that the fluid is
> leaking into the brake
> booster?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Nick Zarkades
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 23:52:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Hats X 3
"R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" wrote:
> Alright, youse guys. Knock it off!
>
> Ron Rader wrote:
>
> > KirK
> > abso so so lutly
> > ron R
> >
> > 62 BT7 wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Ron,
> > >
> > > I have three, so, does that make me soooo. soooo. sooo, cool ????
> > >
> > > Kirk Kvam
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 3:13 PM
> > > Subject: Hats
> > >
> > > > I have one and now I am soooo cool!
> > > > Ron
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 23:50:32 -0700
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
The vent and drain pipe you are referring to is a 100 M part,
according to the Moss catalog (421-250). Similarly, the factory parts
book does not appear to list such a pipe for the standard 100, only a
"carbureter drain pipe" that attaches to the manifold, as mentioned
above.
-Roland
On Fri, 7 Jun 2002 23:10:53 -0700 (PDT), Blue One Hundred
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
:: Dave -
::
:: I'm not sure on the semantics of long or short float
:: chamber vent pipes on a 100M, but the long pipes are
:: standard on all BN1s and BN2s.
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 08:07:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
Fourth Month of 1961. (Later the first number changed from a month to a
week number)
>Got it for a friends Riley but its different then his. Aloha --Perry
>>>
>
>
>=====
>J. Scott Morris
>Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
>
All the best
--
John Harper
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 00:16:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
I stand corrected. My PO must have added them on to
the H4's.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com> wrote:
> The H4s on my BN1 do not have any sort of float
> chamber pipe, long or
> short. There are some drain pipes from the intake
> manifold, about 9"
> long and anchored to the block with clips, and there
> is a vent opening
> in the top of the float chamber, but that is all.
>
> The vent and drain pipe you are referring to is a
> 100 M part,
> according to the Moss catalog (421-250). Similarly,
> the factory parts
> book does not appear to list such a pipe for the
> standard 100, only a
> "carbureter drain pipe" that attaches to the
> manifold, as mentioned
> above.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Fri, 7 Jun 2002 23:10:53 -0700 (PDT), Blue One
> Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> :: Dave -
> ::
> :: I'm not sure on the semantics of long or short
> float
> :: chamber vent pipes on a 100M, but the long pipes
> are
> :: standard on all BN1s and BN2s.
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Karen Morrison" <karenm at telus.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:18:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Room in Tahoe
We have someone who is interested in the room in Tahoe. Can you forward the
info to me and we will gladly take over the reservation. We'll need your
registration and hotel confirmation number.
Thanks in advance
Karen Morrison
Vancouver BC, Canada
BC V6P 4X6
karenm@telus.net
604-261-1164
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 10:12:11 EDT
Subject: USS Albacore
Alex. Z. BN7
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 10:23:27 -0700
Subject: Re: USS Albacore
ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
> Alex,
> Fascinating story, although I didn't understand half of it, not knowing much
> about radio electronics. The shape of the Albacore looks like a predecessor
> to the nuclear subs. You mentioned it was a test bed. I can see where you got
> your taste for speed.
>
> Alex. Z. BN7
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From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 11:07:33 -0400
Subject: Solex carb info
If anyone could provide copies of this material, or could point me in a
suitable direction, or could recommend a book, I would be most obliged.
Thanks
John Slade
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 08:19:12 -0700
Subject: Sprite with Hemi
Rich
BT7
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 11:10:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Sprite with Hemi
http://www.ntahc.org/modifiedhealeys/Photos/126Marian/Marian.htm
It is beautiful in a rocket sort of way!!!
At 08:19 AM 6/8/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Can someone send me the URL for that amazing yellow Sprite with the
>Chrysler Hemi installed that was on the list a few weeks ago?
> Thanks!
>
>Rich
>BT7
>
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 12:39:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
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from the era is where you will find what you need. I think these carbs were
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 10:28:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Solex carb info
Good luck!
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Slade" <edalsj@igs.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 8:07 AM
Subject: Solex carb info
> Can anyone on the List help me out? I am looking for information about
> two models of 1950's era Solex carbs. The models are 32 PBIC and 32
> PBICT. What I am looking for are exploded diagrams of, hopefully, both
> models, and also any descriptive text which might help in disassembly,
> overhaul and rebuild.
>
> If anyone could provide copies of this material, or could point me in a
> suitable direction, or could recommend a book, I would be most obliged.
>
> Thanks
>
> John Slade
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 10:32:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Hayward Meet?
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 13:53:01 -0400
Subject: fuel tank
Thanks Dave
blue bj8
black/red bj8
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From HealeyinNH at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 13:56:07 EDT
Subject: Heritage Trust
Thanks,
Dave, BN4 (actually Ellie owns the car,... and me)
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 19:37:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Heritage Trust
A check on their web page....
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace%20certificate.htm
...suggests that they still do.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 20:43:31 +0200
Subject: Re: Solex carb info
there are some pages in "Glenn's Foreign Carburetors & Electrical Systems"
about the PBIC
carb. About 9 pages general info about the working of Solex carbs and 5 pages
about the
PBCI with an exploded view.
Do you have any access to the book or shall I scan and mail the pages?
BTW: Applications of the PBIC were ALFA ROMEO, BORGWARD, CITROEN,
MERCEDES-BENZ, FIAT
FORD, LANCIA, PEUGEOT, PORSCHE AND SIMCA.
VW beetle has 28PCI.
Which one is yours? Porsche 356A?
Best regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Slade" <edalsj@igs.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 5:07 PM
Subject: Solex carb info
> Can anyone on the List help me out? I am looking for information about
> two models of 1950's era Solex carbs. The models are 32 PBIC and 32
> PBICT. What I am looking for are exploded diagrams of, hopefully, both
> models, and also any descriptive text which might help in disassembly,
> overhaul and rebuild.
>
> If anyone could provide copies of this material, or could point me in a
> suitable direction, or could recommend a book, I would be most obliged.
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From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 13:35:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
Cheers, "Bob".
> From: Healeyguy@aol.com
> Reply-To: Healeyguy@aol.com
> Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 12:39:16 EDT
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
>
> Thanks to all who send responses to my query on this starter. How many of
> you have seen a Bedford truck before?
> Aloha
> Perry
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 15:47:19 -0400
Subject: 2 questions on front bearings
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 16:57:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Bedford truck
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <Healeyguy@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Help Identifying a Lucas Starter
> Thanks to all who send responses to my query on this starter. How many of
> you have seen a Bedford truck before?
> Aloha
> Perry
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 17:33:19 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel tank
I've run into this before. You'll need compressed air.
Disconnect the fuel tank line at the fuel pump, remove the gas cap, and blow
air into the line - you'll get bubling in the tank if the line is open. If
you hear a clog release back into the tank, you'll probably have to drain &
clean out the tank itself - something plugged the line and may do it again.
Don't be afraid to use lots of air - you won't hurt anything if the gas cap
is off.
Re-connect the line at the pump, disconnect the fuel line at the front carb,
and use the key to run a bit of gas into a container to see what the fuel
flow is like.
Good luck,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 10:53 AM
Subject: fuel tank
Well out for a run last night and sounded like the usual fuel pump quitting
(aaa call). Take the pump off today and install another only to find out no
fuel. Traced it back to not coming out of fuel tank. Yes it has a half tank
of
fuel. I have no idea what to do next? Any suggestions as always appreciated.
Thanks Dave
blue bj8
black/red bj8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 22:10:29 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
The Lemans kit requires very short vent pipes coming off the float chamber
banjo fittings which pass through conical shaped rubber fittings and
straight in to the cold air box. These are required to equalize the air
pressures between the two chambers. The long pipes were not fitted to cars
as part of the kit.
It is thought that maybe the Special Tuning publication was prepared very
early on before the need for equalized pressures was realized.
I believe this is dealt with by Geoff Healey in his first book on the Big
Healey.
Hope this helps.
Rich Chrysler
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 22:09:36 -0400
Subject: fuel tank
Thanks Dave
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 23:50:29 -0400
Subject: Fw: BN1 seats
I've sent this twice and have gotten no responses. Does anyone know who might
be a good person to contact to help me out?
----- Original Message -----
From: Ted Schroeder
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 2:45 PM
Subject: BN1 seats
Hi group,
In the Nov. 2001 issue of 'Classic and Sports Car' John Surtees drove a dozen
British sports cars including a 100M. One of his major complaints about the
Healey was the seats. He said he felt like he was going to fall out of the
car! I tend to agree with his assessment. Not only do the seat backs flex too
much, the contour is wrong - at least for me. The curve is too tight.
Now...the seats in a friends 100-6 feel quite different. The curve of the back
is more 'shallow' and a lot more comfortable for me. Also, his seatbacks
don't flex nearly as much as mine. Apparently the seats were improved for the
100-6.
Can 100-6 seats be used in a 100? Can just the backs be exchanged? It seems
to me that the seat bottom frames contribute to the 'flexiness' of the seats.
Is this right? What about 'repro' seats? With the lists expert help I'd like
to make some improvements to the seating in car.
Thanks.
Ted Schroeder
1955 BN1
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 21:15:11 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel tank
Multiple filters will not impede the flow of the fuel, unless they are
partially or fully plugged with dirt, rust bits, or other crap. I think you
will need to remove the tank and clean and treat it properly. You might also
want to blow out your fuel lines, and clean out you carb float bowls. You
never know what kind of debris may be lurking. Do all this, and then you'll
know if your full throttle hesitation is fuel related or something else....
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 7:09 PM
Subject: fuel tank
> Thanks for the replies. I (me) tried to blow back into the tank from
where I
> disconnected the pump, but no luck, not enough pressure. Tried the
compressor
> and got bubbles. Drained the tank, the gas had no obvious trash, so I gave
the
> gas to the lawnmower!! Installed small purlotaor filter and the common
> plastic bowl on tank side of the pump and another plastic bowl at the
> carb's.It started up fine. However when I took a drive, there is random
> quick hesitation at full throttle. I must have something floating around
in
> there?? To many filters??? At least I'm running again.
>
> Thanks Dave
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 01:06:45 EDT
Subject: "The Healey Book"
As many of you know Bill Emerson has spent most of the last year and a half
researching and writing a book about Healey's. Not just some Healey's, but
just about every Healey that you can think of or name. Fortunately for me
the publisher lives about 3 miles from me and the books arrived from the
printer yesterday. I was able to get a sneak preview of the book which will
be released at Open Roads 2002. I certainly didn't have time to read every
word, but I did get to spend some time looking through it and a couple of
thoughts come to mind:
WOW!!!
HOLY ^*&$!!!
I DIDN'T REALIZE THERE WERE THAT MANY HEALEY'S AND HEALEY BOATS!!!
UNBELIEVABLE, HOW DID HE EVER FIND ALL OF THEM???
The book is spectacular. The cars jump off the page at you. The information
contained here is the most complete compendium of detail anywhere. Patrick,
your BN3 looks fabulous. 263 large pages of coffee table size reading.
The publisher let me take a couple of photos which you can view at:
http://members.aol.com/healeyhundred/TheHealeyBook1.jpg
He will have them available at Tahoe, can't wait to get mine.
Congratulations Bill, there are not enough adjectives or praise to do you and
the book justice.
Two weeks, see ya there...
Richard Gordon
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From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at prodigy.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 01:58:01 -0400
Subject: Door Fastners,
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 23:47:08 -0700
Subject: Re: 2 questions on front bearings
The new bearing race will go in all the way if you use a drift to tap it in.
A drift is like a punch with a flat end. I bought a set of these of different
sizes from a vendor at a car show years ago, but you should be able to find
something similar at your local tool supplier. The drift is softer than the
bearing outer race, so won't damage it. Tap it in with a hammer and drift on
the edge of the race in a "spiral pattern" (tap around the circumference of
the race in a circle as the bearing moves down in the bore). It may be that
torquing the hub nut with all the items in the "stackup" in place will pull
the inner bearing outer race into place, but I haven't done it this way so I
don't know. The book does say to torque the hub nut with everything in place
before beginning the shim adjustment, to make sure everything is seated
properly.
"End float" is the in and out (parallel to the axle) play in the hub that you
will have if the amount of shims used is too thick. The book says to measure
this accurately, and I tried to do so with a precision dial indicator. But,
it was too difficult to get a consistent reading this way, so I gave up on the
indicator. I just put in a stack of shims over the stub axle and up to the
spacer, installed the tab lockwasher and nut, and torqued to 40 - 70 lb-ft.
(The inner bearing is greased at this point, and the oil seal is in, but the
outer bearing is not greased). Once the nut is torqued, pull/push the hub
in/out to see if there is any play (there should be if you used enough shims.
Add shims until you get the play). Now, you remove shims until you remove the
discernible in/out play with the nut torqued, while at the same time the hub
rotates freely and does not bind. This is trial and error. If you have a
quantity of 0.003, 0.005, 0.010 shims, you can use them in combination to add
or subtract 0.003, 0.005, 0.006, 0.008, 0.010, etc. and get the adjustment
pretty accurate. After you get all this correct, then you can grease the
outer bearing and do the final installation.
Once the end play is removed with the proper amount of shims, and the hub
still rotates freely, you may have trouble lining up the cotter pin hole in
the nut with the hole in the axle while still obtaining 40 - 70 lb-ft of
torque. If so, you can add your remaining shims as required between the hub
nut and the tabbed lockwasher to adjust the position of the cotter pin hole in
the nut until it lines up.
Good luck, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Hutchings
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 12:47 PM
Subject: 2 questions on front bearings
Hi folks! I'm replacing the front wheel bearings on my BJ8 (wire
wheels) which is a job I've never done before, so I printed some
advice from the archives, but I've still got two questions;
I'm putting new bearings into new hubs, and the inner bearing, outer
race is the same size as the old one,
but now I've got it flush with the opening in the hub, there's still
about 3/32" between the race and the "shoulder" that the old bearing
was pressed up against...I can only guess that the new hub has a
longer
dimension here. So, should I leave it where it is, or try to tap it
in further (which would be difficult because the old race I'm using
to tap it in with would start to bind in the bore.) Hope that's
understandable!
The second question is embarrassing, but could some one explain
end-float, and how to measure it, please...I've mastered these tasks
as they have come along, and this one's just come along!
Thanks for your patience, as always
Stephen, BJ8
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 09:24:54 EDT
Subject: Re: "The Healey Book" How to order...
The following information comes from a flyer the publisher had:
There are 3 versions:
1. The book with a glossy slip cover. $69.95 + $4.95 shipping US or $15.00
Canada.
2. The book limited edition (750 copies) in a hard presentation slip cover
for $99.95 plus shipping.
3. The book Special Edition (250 copies) signed by Margo and perhaps others
with a hard presentation slip cover with a metal Healey castle badge $149.95
plus shipping.
He can take credit card orders, or send a check or money order. Sure wish I
had a monetary interest in this one, but I don't.
Coterie Press Limited
19 Pin Oak Drive
Littleton, Colorado 80127
FAX: 303-973-3014
E-mail: coterieltd@aol.com
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From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 08:40:59 -0500
Subject: List Hat
I'm waaaaaaay behind on my Healey list reading, and can't seem to locate the
information about list hats. Can someone please let me know where can I
obtain a list hat?
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
Austrheamgafun@arczip.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 06:55:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: fuel tank
Thanks Dave
Sign-up for Video Highlights of 2002 FIFA World Cup
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 07:15:53 -0700
Subject: Re: List Hat
foxriverkid@earthlink.net
Ron Rader
Austrheamgafun@arczip.com wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm waaaaaaay behind on my Healey list reading, and can't seem to locate the
> information about list hats. Can someone please let me know where can I
> obtain a list hat?
>
> Much thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
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From <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 10:09:59 -0400
Subject: Re: fuel tank
Dave -
Have you done any work on the gas tank recently? Sounds like you got some
gunk floating around in there clogging up the tank's pickup.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
caudle1@charter.net wrote:
Thanks for the replies. I (me) tried to blow back into the tank from where
I
disconnected the pump, but no luck, not enough pressure. Tried the
compressor
and got bubbles. Drained the tank, the gas had no obvious trash, so I gave
the
gas to the lawnmower!! Installed small purlotaor filter and the common
plastic bowl on tank side of the pump and another plastic bowl at the
carb's.It started up fine. However when I took a drive, there is random
quick hesitation at full throttle. I must have something floating around
in
there?? To many filters??? At least I'm running again.
Thanks Dave
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
Do You Yahoo!?
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 10:48:22 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel tank
Then they fill the tank with water and place it on the gas BBQ and wait till
it boils. They report it works great. One owner said he put his power leaf
blower in the fuel filler hole to dry it out.
I've never tried it but it sounds interesting. In my case I had a new gas
tank. The previous owner had left the tank in the car without a fuel sending
unit or filler hose connected. While in the body shop the tank became dirty
with Bondo dust. I sent it to a radiator shop to be boiled out and apparently
that is all they do, fill it with water and heat it up.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 08:21:37 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel tank
I disagree with Doug Ingram (good friend) - I'll bet you've got too many
filters! The Healey BJ8 requires real good fuel flow at full throttle -
more than the earlier cars - those HD8's can be thirsty when your foot is
down.
Try removing the two plastic bowls, leaving the purolator filter where it
is - that is exactly how I run both cars, with a purolator filter between
tank and pump. I've had no problems over the years that way. See what that
does. There is always a possibility that fuel pump itself is not delivering
full flow, but I doubt that's the problem.
Watch the filter - if you see excessive debris starting to build up quickly
as you drive, say the first tank-full, you'll have to clean out the tank.
Let us know.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2002 7:09 PM
Subject: fuel tank
Thanks for the replies. I (me) tried to blow back into the tank from where
I
disconnected the pump, but no luck, not enough pressure. Tried the
compressor
and got bubbles. Drained the tank, the gas had no obvious trash, so I gave
the
gas to the lawnmower!! Installed small purlotaor filter and the common
plastic bowl on tank side of the pump and another plastic bowl at the
carb's.It started up fine. However when I took a drive, there is random
quick hesitation at full throttle. I must have something floating around in
there?? To many filters??? At least I'm running again.
Thanks Dave
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 14:49:44 -0600
Subject: Hundred rear bumper
The bumper which is on the car has a straight section in the middle
rather than curved to fit the body contour. Checking with a couple of
major parts suppliers shows that their replacement bumper is also
straight rather than curved.
I have looked at published photos of supposedly original or correctly
restored cars & the photos show a rear bumper with a curved to match the
body center section. What's the deal, no correct repro's available or am
I off on a tangent? Didn't find anything in the archives on this subject.
Thanks,
Dave Russell
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 16:33:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Hundred rear bumper
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 19:13:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Hundred rear bumper
> make a template out of cardboard of the curve desired from the curve of the
> rear shroud and then have a bumper rechromer straighten it with the desired
> curve. plan on having to rechrome the bumper. we just got through having
> to do the same thing on a tri-carb front bumper since the bumper didn't
> conform to the curve of the front valance.
>
OK folks,
I guess it's time for a tutorial on bumpers. The only way to get a correct
one is to have one re-shaped, whether old original or new. However,
rechromers have a nasty paractice of working the bumper to "close" shape and
then grinding/filing it smooth. Since the metal isn't all that thick to
begin with, the final thickness will vary all over and can end up rather thin
in places. Oh, the bumper may look pretty, but it is about as strong as a
fender. Since repro bumpers are of even thinner metal than the originals, it
is likely lthat if they are re-shaped and rechromed they will be pretty thin.
The real problem wilth this rechroming process is that the bumper will be so
thin that it cannot be re-shaped and cromed a second time, because the
grinding will likely even go through in places. Had this happen to me this
past year.
The solution is to find a truly talented and patient metal worker who will
take the time to hammer out the shape until the final grinding won't have to
remove more thaln 0.005 - 0.010" of metal. And even so, I'd tell the person
that you'd rather live with a few slight waves in the surface than have him
grind/sand it to laser-straight perfection. I doubt new ones in the '50s
were so minutely perfect anyway.
Then, find a plater who you can send the pre-polished bumper to so all he has
to do is any final polish (NO GRINDING!!!) and plate.
Yes, this will cost more $$$. I spent some $275 just getting my bumper
reshaped and polished before plating, but the chroming cost was only about
$75 since they didn't have to do any prep work. And the plater still said
he thought the bumper was too wavy for his standards, but I told him to leave
it as-is and just plate. I think it came out super!! And its edges are
still quite thick.
As for finding someone to do the metal work, the person who did mine is not
doing any more, so you'll have to work out solutions for yourselves.
Good parts restoration can often be far more involved and costly than you'd
like. But this is what it takes to get things right.
Roger
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:53:10 -0400
Subject: Re;Re; 2 questions on front bearings
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:02:43 EDT
Subject: Terry Parsons' Email Address
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From Healeygal at cs.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:47:23 EDT
Subject: Caravan to Tahoe
Please contact George direct at ghkeens@earthlink.net
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From Oilrag2000 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:50:08 EDT
Subject: Oil Spot Rallye July 20
The morning will feature a driving event that will include an easy Monte
Carlo style TSD, a Poker Run, and a Photo Tour all in a single drive ending
in a small Colorado town. The driving event will be followed by lunch at a
Mexican Restaurant, a car show, and a walking tour of the small town. Oh
yes, trophies will be awarded for the largest and most artistic oil spots
generated after the drive.
Why not join the friendly folks of the BMCNC for a low pressure day of fun
with British cars. The entry fee is only $35.00 for non-BMCNC members and
that includes lunch for your driver and navigator team. Registration is
required no later than July 15.
The starting line will be in Fort Collins, CO (about 70 miles north of
Denver, and 45 miles south of Cheyenne, WY). Driver's meeting at 8:00am,
first car out at 8:02am.
For more information, or to register, e-mail to oilrag2000@aol.com, or phone
970-484-6053.
Ray Glabach
BMCNC
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From KC Morgan <kc_morgan at jetemail.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 02:09:12 -0700
Subject: Car wash, polish and waxes
Thanks,
-K.C.
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:34:06 -0400
Subject: Pertronix?-update
A few weeks ago I posted to the list a problem with a new Pertronix ignition
not working and I'm happy to report that all is well. I called Pertronix and
Bill was very helpful explaining reasons for failure of the system and
agreed to replace same with new upon returning defective one.
The first question on the phone was to examine the module closely for any
cracks? and lo, there was a hairline crack!? Normally this can be caused by
reversed polarity?, or leaving the ignition "on" for more than 30 seconds or
so(without motor running)?
I rechecked the wiring and it appeared to be correct at the coil so I am not
sure if the unit was fried out of the box or if I "re-fried" it some how??
(I have negative grnd)
Bottom line is Pertronix graciously swapped for a replacement and it worked
the first time without having to make any timing adjustments.
Im not sure what to expect with performance other than there is a smoothness
in acceleration with power coming more on the high RPM's?
With the obvious benefit of not having to mess with points et al I'm a
satisfied customer of Pertronix!
Thanks to all for the normal outstanding responses and helpful suggestions.
Warren 67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:54:02 EDT
Subject: Lake Tahoe Room Available
I will be sharing a condo at Lake Tahoe with another couple. Hence, their
room
at the Horizon is available. First person to contact bobmac@i1.net with name
and
registration number can have the room. Their reservation is June 23rd for 5
nights.
Bobmac is out of communication visiting his in-laws until Wednesday, so a
quick response may not occur.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 05:06:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pertronix?-update
A few weeks ago I posted to the list a problem with a new Pertronix ignition
not working and I'm happy to report that all is well. I called Pertronix and
Bill was very helpful explaining reasons for failure of the system and
agreed to replace same with new upon returning defective one.
The first question on the phone was to examine the module closely for any
cracks? and lo, there was a hairline crack!? Normally this can be caused by
reversed polarity?, or leaving the ignition "on" for more than 30 seconds or
so(without motor running)?
I rechecked the wiring and it appeared to be correct at the coil so I am not
sure if the unit was fried out of the box or if I "re-fried" it some how??
(I have negative grnd)
Bottom line is Pertronix graciously swapped for a replacement and it worked
the first time without having to make any timing adjustments.
Im not sure what to expect with performance other than there is a smoothness
in acceleration with power coming more on the high RPM's?
With the obvious benefit of not having to mess with points et al I'm a
satisfied customer of Pertronix!
Thanks to all for the normal outstanding responses and helpful suggestions.
Warren 67 BJ8
Sign-up for Video Highlights of 2002 FIFA World Cup
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 08:47:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Hundred rear bumper
> Although the shape is right, it is corroded and rusty. Does that mean it
> has to be ground (and possibly inadvertently straightened) before plating?
> What do I do?
>
It might need some reshaping, but probably not much. Surface rust can me
removed without taking off too much metal. If there are deep rust pits, then
a better way is to have the rust taken off by one of these shops that dips
items to remove the rust. Then I believe there is a copper plating process
that can be used to build up a layer and in the process fill in the pits.
The surface can then be lightly ground back. The copper ends up like a "body
filler " in that it is basically used to fill in the deep pits. Of course
this costs more than normal plating, but you'll rescue the bumper. I
lsuggest you call around to plating shops and find one that seems to know
about how to do more than just the tradlitional plating. And get references.
And look at their work. But most iimportantly have them tell you what
grilnding processes they use and if thely've ever done bumpers without
grinding (or with very little)..
Good luck.
Roger
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:07:31 EDT
Subject: Wash & Wax
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:31:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Wash & Wax (Lengthy reply)
<< I have used a product called Liquid Glass and that
has done the job very well. I had the BN4 repainted about 4 years ago and
had it finished with a clear coat. I only use Dry Wash on it and being
black, it still has maintained that gorgeous look.
The trouble with wax is that it contains paraffin and that dissolves in a
month and leaves you unprotected. Great for a while, but then nothing. This
should open an interesting thread.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC >>
I've spent a fair amount of time talking to the technical guys at most of the
well-advertised car care products companies, especially Meguiar's, Griots,
Autoglym, and Zymol. (We did a polish-off test of these four about a year
ago).
I suspect that Liquid Glass, judging from its name, is similar to Autoglym.
The product is designed to put a clear seal over the finish. This is terrific
for brand new cars, and cars that have gotten a good paint job -- if you
start using the product before the car has ever been exposed to the elements,
and then renew it about every six months. They do wear off and for proper
care, Autoglym makes a "polish" that removes the old coat and smooths off the
finish before the new sealant is applied. So, according to the experts, that
is a "Good Thing."
Driwash, on the other hand, combines mild abrasives with a light wax,
basically doing both things pretty badly. Since you have a clearcoat, you
wouldn't have noticed how much of your finish is being removed every time you
use it, but since it does smooth off the top layer (which is actually what
creates the "shine" -- wax just protects a smooth finish), it appears to make
the car look good.
As an experiment, try using Driwash on a regular -- non-clearcoated -- paint
job using a white rag. I bet that by the time you've "polished" one section,
your white rag will have taken on the color of your car, due to the paint
you've removed.
As to waxes, you're right -- they don't last forever. That's why the experts
recommend polishing and waxing the car periodically. More frequently if it
sits outside a lot. The better the wax (that is, the more Carnauba and less
paraffin it has in it) the longer it will last. The expensive stuff (those
products mentioned above) typically contain 40-50 percent Canauba -- anything
more than 50 percent would be too dense to spread). Cheaper products, even
those that claim to contain carnauba, may contain no more that 10-15 percent.
And that's my (lengthy) two cents.
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 08:25:19 -0700
Subject: Speedo & Gauge Repairs
I contacted MoMa and was given their name.
I have a speedo with numbers over a gold background whereas the other gauges
have a silver background. Seems to be the correct speedo for the car according
to the Moss catalogue, SN 62155/21.
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:16:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Wash & Wax (Lengthy reply)
As my BJ8 is likely to get a new paint job (Healey blue - metallic)
within the next 12 months, can I ask any views on whether to apply any
treatments straight away (and if so which), otherwise how long to just
wash before applying a wax or whatever to fully hardened paint? And does
this depend on the type of paint used?
TIA
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:53:19 -0700
Subject: Video tape of OpenRoads 2002
Video tape of OpenRoads 2002 to be available
SUNNYVALE California (USA) -- June 8, 2002 - In response to an increasing
demand, the OpenRoads 2002 Healey International Committee has arranged to
have key events at the upcoming meet recorded on video tape. The tape will
be sold through regalia during the five-day event. It will also be
available through the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, Inc., host of the
2002 Healey International at Lake Tahoe, to those unable to attend the event.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will be held June 23 to 28 at
the
Horizon Hotel and Casino in Stateline, Nevada, and is shaping up to be the
largest Healey event ever staged. The meet celebrates the 50th anniversary
of the first Austin-Healey, the 100, and the popularity and longevity of
all Austin-Healeys, Austin-Healey Sprites and Jensen-Healeys, as well as
all Healeys built prior to 1952. So far, the event committee has taken in
close to 700 paid registrations, representing well over 550 Big Healeys,
Sprites and Jensen Healeys. Also registered are several 100Ss,
Healey-Nashs, Westlands, and other special Marque variants.
The tape will show the Popular Choice Car Show with over 500 Healeys on
display on Monday June 24, the June 24 concours judging and the Tuesday TSD
and observation rallyes. The tape will also focus on the autocross and
<-mile timed events at the Lake Tahoe Airport and the challenging funkhana
competition that has been set up. Also covered will be the Around-the-Lake
Tour on Thursday, June 27, the two banquet dinners and Healey auction, and
other OpenRoads 2002 events. Finally we plan interviews with the special
array of Healey guests at the event, including Bic and Gerry Coker, the key
designer of the 100.
The video tape can be pre-ordered from the Golden Gate Austin Healey
Club
at a special price of $17.95 or can be purchased through OpenRoads 2002
regalia at the show itself at a price of $25. The club plans to mail out
the tape to purchasers approximately six to eight weeks after the show.
To pre-order an OpenRoads 2002 video tape, please make out a check to
OpenRoads 2002 and send it to Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club, 1160B La
Rochelle Terrace, Sunnyvale, California 94089. California residents
please add 8% sales tax. Also please add $2.50 for domestic US shipping.
###
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:07:54 -0700
Subject: Paint curing, wax and polish
My car was beautifully painted last August (2 stage w/cc). It will receive
its inaugural coat of protective
polish this coming weekend just in time for its trip to Tahoe. So that's 10
long months. Of course, the car is garaged with a car cover and has received
a few gentle washings in that period. But I wanted to be absolutely certain
the paint
and c/c had a chance to fully cure before applying wax. As a related aside,
I just bought a new Volvo. The dealer told me to hand wash only and use no
wax for at least three months to let the new car paint "cure" properly.
Some time ago, a fellow lister told me about a "fabulous" show car polish he
uses that claims no abrasives, silicone or other paint damaging ingredients
and also protects against UV damage. Subsequently, a friend who builds and
shows custom rods confirmed that he's been using the same product and he
(and a number of his fellow hot rod fanatics) is totally sold on the
product. It's a series of auto care products made by a company called Zaino
Bros. It is pretty expensive stuff but if it performs half as well as their
testimonials state, I'll be quite pleased to use it this weekend on my 10
mo. old as-new paint job. Zaino Bros. - go to: http://www.zainobros.com/
Disclaimer: I've no affiliation w/Zaino other than as a potential customer
with $70 invested in their products in transit. Anybody with negative
experiences with these polishing products please let me know before this
Friday.
Coop ('66 BJ8)
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:50:20 -0700
Subject: OpenRoads video tape
Video tape of OpenRoads 2002 to be available
SUNNYVALE California (USA) -- June 8, 2002 - In response to an increasing
demand, the OpenRoads 2002 Healey International Committee has arranged to
have key events at the upcoming meet recorded on video tape. The tape will
be sold through regalia during the five-day event. It will also be
available through the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club, Inc., host of the
2002 Healey International at Lake Tahoe, to those unable to attend the event.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will be held June 23 to 28 at
the
Horizon Hotel and Casino in Stateline, Nevada, and is shaping up to be the
largest Healey event ever staged. The meet celebrates the 50th anniversary
of the first Austin-Healey, the 100, and the popularity and longevity of
all Austin-Healeys, Austin-Healey Sprites and Jensen-Healeys, as well as
all Healeys built prior to 1952. So far, the event committee has taken in
close to 700 paid registrations, representing well over 550 Big Healeys,
Sprites and Jensen Healeys. Also registered are several 100Ss,
Healey-Nashs, Westlands, and other special Marque variants.
The tape will show the Popular Choice Car Show with over 500 Healeys on
display on Monday June 24, the June 24 concours judging and the Tuesday TSD
and observation rallyes. The tape will also focus on the autocross and
<-mile timed events at the Lake Tahoe Airport and the challenging funkhana
competition that has been set up. Also covered will be the Around-the-Lake
Tour on Thursday, June 27, the two banquet dinners and Healey auction, and
other OpenRoads 2002 events. Finally we plan interviews with the special
array of Healey guests at the event, including Bic and Gerry Coker, the key
designer of the 100.
The video tape can be pre-ordered from the Golden Gate Austin Healey
Club
at a special price of $17.95 or can be purchased through OpenRoads 2002
regalia at the show itself at a price of $25. The club plans to mail out
the tape to purchasers approximately six to eight weeks after the show.
To pre-order an OpenRoads 2002 video tape, please make out a check to
OpenRoads 2002 and send it to Golden Gate Austin-Healey Club, 1160B La
Rochelle Terrace, Sunnyvale, California 94089. Don't forget to include
your shipping address. California residents please add 8% sales tax. Also
please add $2.50 for domestic US shipping.
###
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:07:11 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
<< The vent and drain pipe you are referring to is a 100 M part,
according to the Moss catalog (421-250). Similarly, the factory parts
book does not appear to list such a pipe for the standard 100, only a
"carbureter drain pipe" that attaches to the manifold, as mentioned
above.
>>
I'm assuming the tubes of which you speak have banjo openings and fit under
the top hold-downs of the float bowls (the fasteners which also hold the
brackets that extend out to the float bowls from the intake manifold.
The only thing I've been able to guess regarding the unnecessary length of
those tubes is that they were intended for a different application on a
different engine originally, perhaps actually as a float bowl drain, similar
to the six cylinder set-up.
In fact, what you do on the 100M conversion, is that you cut off all but
about two or three inches of those tubes so that they project into the cold
air box (there should be two holes in the cold air box opposite the float
bowls. The tubes go through some wierd-shaped grommets (they look like a
Hershey Kiss) set into the holes in the cold air box. There's a pretty good
picture of the set-up on page 39 of our book, Austin-Healey 100/100-6/3000
Restoration Guide.
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:11:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Caravan to Tahoe
<< Anyone from the Southern California area planning on making the trip to
Tahoe
up Highway 395 in one day? Mr. George Keens, original owner of an unrestored
40,000 mile Hundred (seen by many at California Healey Week in Solvang) is
making the trip on Sunday, the 23rd from San Pedro with his son. They can't
make it an overnighter, because his son is returning home to Texas from
vacation in Italy, and then flying in to LA. >>
Word to the wise about driving up 395 anytime between memorial day and labor
day -- count on it being HOT! Take plenty of drinking water, neck "coolers"
that can be dipped and refreshed in the ice bag/chest under your passenger's
legs (in which there should be lots of bottles of water and several neck
coolers). Probably a very good idea to run with your top up and side-curtains
out -- back window zipped out for you lucky BJ8 owners. There are only about
three trees between Los Angeles and the cut-off to go across to Tahoe. Leave
as early in the morning as you can to get as much driving out of the way
before the sun gets high.
Good luck.
Cheers
Gary
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:34:02 -0400
Subject: RE: Paint curing, wax and polish
I have used Zaino products for about 18 months and recently switched to
Maguiar's (Note: I collect car waxes like I collect tools ... I've tried
most of them). I believe that Maguiar's "show class" polish beats out Zaino,
although I still use the Zaino gloss enhancer (Zaino #6). To get the best
finish, I recommend:
1. wash with water mixed with a little Dawn dishwashing liquid to remove old
wax
2. prepare surface with a clay bar (kept well lubricated with car shampoo -
or use mothers clay bar which comes with it's own lube)
3. Maguiar's cleaner wax
4. Maguiar's "show class" wax
5. Zaino or Maguiar's gloss enhancer (Zaino smells the best!)
- use only white cotton towels, made in the USA (Zaino's web site explains)
It's worth the effort.
Andy
Shiny '67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1 [mailto:coop1@dnai.com]
My car was beautifully painted last August (2 stage w/cc). It will receive
its inaugural coat of protective
polish this coming weekend just in time for its trip to Tahoe. So that's 10
long months. Of course, the car is garaged with a car cover and has received
a few gentle washings in that period. But I wanted to be absolutely certain
the paint
and c/c had a chance to fully cure before applying wax. As a related aside,
I just bought a new Volvo. The dealer told me to hand wash only and use no
wax for at least three months to let the new car paint "cure" properly.
Some time ago, a fellow lister told me about a "fabulous" show car polish he
uses that claims no abrasives, silicone or other paint damaging ingredients
and also protects against UV damage. Subsequently, a friend who builds and
shows custom rods confirmed that he's been using the same product and he
(and a number of his fellow hot rod fanatics) is totally sold on the
product. It's a series of auto care products made by a company called Zaino
Bros. It is pretty expensive stuff but if it performs half as well as their
testimonials state, I'll be quite pleased to use it this weekend on my 10
mo. old as-new paint job. Zaino Bros. - go to: http://www.zainobros.com/
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 15:45:48 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M shroud bracket
<< My other question still remains, how do I notch - bend the LH cowl
support to fit the extended cowl support bracket & to clear the cold air
box. The extended bracket came with the cold air box that I recently
purchased. (Engine is in car not much working room) >>
Sorry that we didn't include a picture in our book of the bent-back support
with the cold air ducting removed so that you could see it. Basically, they
were just bent back at a convenient place below the cold air box (probably
where one of the holes is cut in the support which would be the easiest place
to make the bend. My guess from looking at the cars is that they just clamped
something (two boards maybe) around the bracket just below where it needed to
be bent, and then took two other boards or pieces of metal and put one in
front and one behind the bracket and made it bend. The bracket shows a crimp
in the metal on each side of the bracket at the bend.
If you can find someone with an M or LeMans, ask them to remove the ducting
and take a picture so you can see it.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:19:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Hundred rear bumper
<<
The bumper which is on the car has a straight section in the middle
rather than curved to fit the body contour. Checking with a couple of
major parts suppliers shows that their replacement bumper is also
straight rather than curved.
I have looked at published photos of supposedly original or correctly
restored cars & the photos show a rear bumper with a curved to match the
body center section. What's the deal, no correct repro's available or am
I off on a tangent? Didn't find anything in the archives on this subject. >>
You are quite right -- apparently modern technology is incapable of making a
rear bumper with a different profile than the front bumper, so the repros are
inaccurate. They should have a curve that is parallel with the rear shroud.
(The repros are also made out of an inferior grade of tin-foil rather than
decent English steel, which is the bad and the good.)
Unfortunately, Healey bumpers must have gotten hit a lot, because all the old
bumpers have disappeared off the face of the earth. No one, but no one has
these. I've know people to hunt diligently for years in the hope of finding a
restorable original with no luck.
So, what's a person to do? Well, the good thing about that thin repro is
that it can be bent. Find a bumper repair shop and bring them the bumper
along with a profile of the rear shroud traced on some paper or cardboard and
ask them to bend it the little bit it takes to make it the right shape.
That's the best you can do.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:17:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Paint curing, wax and polish
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:42:46 -0700
Subject: BJ8 carb tool tip
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:16:38 -0600
Subject: Thanks for help
Patrick Harris said that the upper shroud bracket as supplied by the
vendor for the 100M cold air box conversion would probably be too short
(not enough offset) to clear the air box. He was correct, the vertical
support does not clear the box with this bracket which has about 1.5
inches of offset (original is five sixteenths inch). It is going to take
a bracket with about two to three inches offset to clear the box.
Also I was concerned about how to bend the vertical shroud support to
fit the new offset bracket. Chris Dimmok said to just push it back with
my hand, Patrick said about the same. I previously thought that the
vertical "looked" too stiff to bend easily. They were right, It bent easily.
The rear bumper problem looks like there are two solutions, get a
correct bumper from AH Spares as Claude V. suggested or from Von
Patterson as Michael suggested. The option of having the old bumper
curved and or re chromed is not a very good option. The closest bumper
repair & chrome shop is 500 miles from me & I don't want to travel 1000
miles for a bumper, especially a tin bent one.
Has anyone had any recent experience with importing parts from England.
I have found UPS to be even more confused than usual on international
shipments. They screwed up my last order big time. Also charged me a cod
fee $26 on each package for "UPS Customhouse Brokerage" which I was
surprised about. A hidden cost?
Rich C. gave the best explanation of my long carb vent tube question. I
think that this is resolved.
Thanks to the many of you who have helped, I appreciate it. I can't be
of much help to Healey owners as I am just starting out on the resto
path. Had a BN2 in the early 60's but put a V8 in it. Wasn't interested
in restoration then. Really screwed it up but it was incredibly fast.
Dave Russell
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From Nicholas Zarkades <zdesign at attbi.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 18:49:41 -0500
Subject: Brake Booster
Thank to all who respond to my question.
Thanks
Nick
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:52:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Thanks for help - Buying parts from the UK
Dave,
I order parts all the time from AH Spares in England
and have them shipped to my home in California (which
is within driving distance from Moss in Santa
Barbara). I have never had a problem with customs or
delays. Even with the changes since 9/11 it only
takes a week. If they have the parts you want, I
would not let the distance bother you. On the other
hand, I have not had to deal with any returns and on
the infrequent occasion I was not satisfied with the
quality of the parts, I just wrote it off to
experience.
I believe that they follow a slightly different
process for exporting 30 year old car parts then you
would go through trying to import the parts yourself.
Let then handle the export forms and get a quote for
shipping so you can make an informed decision.
I can't say that I have no financial interest as they
have most of my money...
Dean BN7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 01:03:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Thanks for help - Buying parts from the UK
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 18:53:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Booster
Also try Apple Hydraulics in NY. Thier website is:
http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm
They're a little more pricey than Power Brake
Exchange, but they may have a booster in stock. I can
vouch for their quality of rebuilding - top notch. I
think they even brass sleeve the booster making it
last forever, essentially. In addition, I think they
can turn boosters around pretty quickly.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Nicholas Zarkades <zdesign@attbi.com> wrote:
> I am looking for a rebuilt booster for a BJ8 3000, I
> have called Power Brake
> Exchange in Calif. and they would rebuild my
> booster, however I was hoping
> to find one rebuilt because I am trying to get the
> car on the road for a
> show on June 30th.
>
> Thank to all who respond to my question.
>
> Thanks
> Nick
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 18:56:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 carb tool tip
You gotta get yourself the handy dandy 1/2" shorty
ratcheting "gearwrench." Makes that job a snap!
Carbs and linkages off in 10 minutes or less. I'll
have to try the distributor wrench sometime.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com> wrote:
> I figured out a new tool to remove and replace the
> BJ8 rear carb nut from
> hell, yesterday. A distributor wrench! The kind that
> has two box ends, 1/2
> and 9/16, and comes apart in the middle (3/8 drive
> coupler in the middle).
> You still have to start the nut with a finger from
> each hand, though.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 23:17:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Speedo & Gauge Repairs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Hewlett" <hewlettlj@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:25 AM
Subject: Speedo & Gauge Repairs
> Has anyone on the List used Alpha Instruments in Toronto for speedo or
tach repairs?
>
> I contacted MoMa and was given their name.
>
> I have a speedo with numbers over a gold background whereas the other
gauges have a silver background. Seems to be the correct speedo for the car
according to the Moss catalogue, SN 62155/21.
>
> Regards
> Larry Hewlett
> 63BJ7
> Peachland, B.C.
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 22:49:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedo & Gauge Repairs
I had a bad experience with Ted a few years ago, an instrument he rebuilt
did not work, and he wouldn't make it right. I will not deal with him
again.....
YMMV,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Hewlett" <hewlettlj@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 8:25 AM
Subject: Speedo & Gauge Repairs
> Has anyone on the List used Alpha Instruments in Toronto for speedo or
tach repairs?
>
> I contacted MoMa and was given their name.
>
> I have a speedo with numbers over a gold background whereas the other
gauges have a silver background. Seems to be the correct speedo for the car
according to the Moss catalogue, SN 62155/21.
>
> Regards
> Larry Hewlett
> 63BJ7
> Peachland, B.C.
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:55:27 +0100
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
>I'm assuming the tubes of which you speak have banjo openings and fit under
>the top hold-downs of the float bowls (the fasteners which also hold the
>brackets that extend out to the float bowls from the intake manifold.
>
>The only thing I've been able to guess regarding the unnecessary length of
>those tubes is that they were intended for a different application on a
>different engine originally, perhaps actually as a float bowl drain, similar
>to the six cylinder set-up.
>
Yes - You are correct. These are standard SU parts #AUC 3202 used on a
variety of cars.
All the best
--
John Harper
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from here for Tahoe and some other folks from my Capital Area Austin-Healey
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 05:25:00 EDT
Subject: Departure for Ocean City
I look forward to seeing and meeting lots of you in Tahoe and for those who
are driving--Have a great, adventurous and safe trip.
Best--Michael Oritt, 1955 100 LeMans
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 02:48:19 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
Bill Schmidt
56 100M
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 10:42:25 EDT
Subject: Road to Tahoe
There are some restrictions on crossing the dam, check this page out.
http://<A HREF="www.hooverdam.usbr.gov/traffic.htm">
www.hooverdam.usbr.gov/traffic.htm</A>
Texas Road Cowboys
NTAHC
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From Larry Hewlett <hewlettlj at shaw.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:05:52 -0700
Subject: Re:: Speedo & Gauge Repair
Regards
Larry Hewlett
63 BJ7
Peachland, B.C.
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 11:11:52 -0400
Subject: Overriders?
I also have available for sale or trade a pair of 1-3/4-in. HD6 carburetters
(Type AUC866) as fitted to BN4 (from CE48863) and BN6 100-6 Healeys from
1950 to 1959. These SUs include the original air filters, throttle and choke
connecting linkages.
Alex in Maine
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:34:21 -0400
Subject: Dowel Bolts
I am curious as to the proper location for the 2 dowel bolts. Also, I assume
the longer (1 1/2") bolt goes into the top right portion of the block looking
forward and is also the bolt to which the ground strap attaches.
Thanks.
Larry Swift
---
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 15:56:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Dowel Bolts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Swift" <mgtd51@adelphia.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 3:34 PM
Subject: Dowel Bolts
> There was a discussion about a year ago on dowel bolts, however, it did
not
> talk about location. Roger's article was published before I had a Healey
so I
> do not have it.
>
> I am curious as to the proper location for the 2 dowel bolts. Also, I
assume
> the longer (1 1/2") bolt goes into the top right portion of the block
looking
> forward and is also the bolt to which the ground strap attaches.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Larry Swift
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:47:53 -0400
Subject: RE: Dowel Bolts
"Hi again Roger, Bob and all,
Since I raised this subject I have done a little more research and am
starting to wonder if it is all a "tempest in a teapot"
When I measure the nominal diameter of various grade 5 and grade 8 3/8"
bolts and have discovered that the diameter of these is around 0.371"
and the diameter of the original dowel bolts is around 0.373".
Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly from our
collection most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently 0.370 to
0.3715.
What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are likely to
produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the largest
grade 5s in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou.
If you take time to ensure that the bolts are as loose a possible in the
dowel position holes before everything is buttoned up I'll bet you would
be within one thou.
IMHO that is not going to cause any problems.
"Writer ducks to avoid flak and nimbly dives into his foxhole ;-)""
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Swift
Sent: 11-Jun-02 3:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dowel Bolts
There was a discussion about a year ago on dowel bolts, however, it did
not
talk about location. Roger's article was published before I had a
Healey so I
do not have it.
I am curious as to the proper location for the 2 dowel bolts. Also, I
assume
the longer (1 1/2") bolt goes into the top right portion of the block
looking
forward and is also the bolt to which the ground strap attaches.
Thanks.
Larry Swift
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From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at tycohealthcare.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:05:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Dowel Bolts
The other way to "cheat" that comes to mind is to get a pair of regular 3/8"
dowels and pop them into the two locations while you tighten the rest of the
bolts. Once they are snug, remove the dowels and put in regular bolts.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter [mailto:magicare@rogers.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 1:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Dowel Bolts
>From the archives.........
"Hi again Roger, Bob and all,
Since I raised this subject I have done a little more research and am
starting to wonder if it is all a "tempest in a teapot"
When I measure the nominal diameter of various grade 5 and grade 8 3/8"
bolts and have discovered that the diameter of these is around 0.371"
and the diameter of the original dowel bolts is around 0.373".
Some grade 8 bolts are one or even 2 thou smaller but oddly from our
collection most of the grade 5 stuff is pretty consistently 0.370 to
0.3715.
What this all means is that the most misalignment that you are likely to
produce if you don't use the correct bolts but do stick to the largest
grade 5s in the dowel locations is 2 - 3 thou.
If you take time to ensure that the bolts are as loose a possible in the
dowel position holes before everything is buttoned up I'll bet you would
be within one thou.
IMHO that is not going to cause any problems.
"Writer ducks to avoid flak and nimbly dives into his foxhole ;-)""
Michael Salter
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 17:55:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Dowel Bolts
> There was a discussion about a year ago on dowel bolts, however, it did not
> talk about location. Roger's article was published before I had a Healey
> so I
> do not have it.
>
> I am curious as to the proper location for the 2 dowel bolts. Also, I
> assume
> the longer (1 1/2") bolt goes into the top right portion of the block
> looking
> forward and is also the bolt to which the ground strap attaches.
>
> Thanks.
>
> The dowel bolts go into the "1:00" and "7:00" positions. On the 6-cyl cars
these have hex heads and a small groove machined at the transition between
the smooth shank and threads. On 100s they are a little shorter than the
other bell housing bolts and have a round head with two flats only on them.
The ground strap goes to a bolt at the "5:00" position, just below the
starter on the bottom right side. This is just across form the other
mounting point on the iniside of the frame.
Roger
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From Rmoment at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:02:12 EDT
Subject: dowel bolts
I rechecked my parts book and found that on the 6-cylinder cars the dowel
bolts go in the "11:00" and "5:30" holes, top left and bottom right. The
ground strap goes to the bolt just above the bottom right dowel bolt, and
below the starter as I said.
However, on the 100s the position is as I stated -- top right and bottom
left. In fact, you'll find a circular countersink/recess in the bell housing
flange at these two positions, that helps the shorter bolt go in farther so
that enough treads are exposed on the other side.
Sorry about that.
Roger
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 18:11:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Thanks for help - Buying parts from the UK
Rick
In a message dated 6/10/02 9:09:03 PM, fawcett1187@attbi.com writes:
<<Dave,
I've bought parts from AH Spares, Denis Welsh and Cape
international with no problems.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
> > Has anyone had any recent experience with importing
> > parts from England.>>
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:29:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Mallory Dual Point Distributor
Had a Lucas before our trip to England. My mechanic thought that the
Mallory would be more reliable. ( What a joke !! )
I replaced the Dual Point with an electronic Mallory on Friday. Left for
VIR at 7:30 AM on Saturday. Beautiful morning drive of 1 and a half
hours. The car ran great. Ran 2 laps at VIR, not at speed, but I got some
good runs in. Visited with Gerry Coker and his wife. Wonderful man. Did
an interview for Roanoke, VA television. Hope to get a copy to find out if
I sounded like an idiot as I went on and on about Healey's. Met Jim Smith
who was running at VIR with a 100. Very impressive. Won a car show
trophy. The trip back to Raleigh went very well as I ran between 70 and
80 at times. The car ran great.
What a wonderful day to spend with Healey's.
Thanks for everyone's help. Hope the distributor problems are over.
Best regards, Joe
55 BN1
60 BT7
At 07:39 PM 6/11/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Joe, (Gee, sounds a little like Jimmy Hendrix!!!)
>
>Was the Mallory on your car when you got it? The shaft on the Mallory
>should be off the original distributor, so that's a start. How did it go
>at VIR? May have some news for you by the end of the week. Thanks.
>
>Regards,
>
>Doug
>
>On Mon, 03 Jun 2002 16:32:59 -0400 <healey27@mindspring.com> writes:
> > As the list may remember, I am having problems with a Mallory dual
> > point distributor on my 1955 BN1. I have been unable to secure a
> > Lucas replacement in time for Healey Day at VIR Raceway in Virginia
> > Saturday so I am going to replace the points in this Mallory and
> > PRAY. I cannot find the instructions for the Mallory or the Mallory
> > web site. Any assistance with instructions on installing and setting
> > the dual point would be greatly appreciated. Also, anyone know the
> > Mallory website?
> >
> > Thanks so much for your help.
> >
> > Best Regards, Joe
> >
> > 55 BN1
> > 60 BT7
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:52:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Thanks for help - Buying parts from the UK
The size of the item is not the determining factor, it's the cost of the
goods imported.
AT $250 the goods stop at Customs. Air shipments under $250 will come direct
to your door, but will require signature. You can pick up your own items at
Customs, once you've paid the duty or designate your own customs broker. If
you can order the parts through a US source, you'll probably make out better
in price since they get the benefit of cheaper shipping through containers.
Rick
In a message dated 6/11/02 6:14:46 PM, HealeyRic2@aol.com writes:
<<The only time I haven't had to pay a customs document fee is when I've
received parts from overseas that travel parcel post. Once the parts are
large enough to require shipping through a shipping company (UPS for example)
I've had to pay the document fee and on occasion, warehouse charges.
Rick>>
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:15:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Special Edition RWG - 6/16 & 6/17 & 6/18
> I talked with the Capitol's facilities management person today and they are
> willing to let all the cars park on the sidewalk in front of the capitol as
> long as the cars are not leaking oil.
Oh well--so much for that....
Best--Michael
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 19:26:26 -0700
Subject: What it's worth..
1 rebuilt idler arm assembly .... $
All new front bearings, shimmed to perfection... $$
First ride without the Healey scuttle shake........priceless!!!
Thanks to all,
John
BJ7
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:24:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Special Edition RWG - 6/16 & 6/17 & 6/18
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/11/02 2:31:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tganey@post-dispatch.com writes:
>
> > I talked with the Capitol's facilities management person today and they are
> > willing to let all the cars park on the sidewalk in front of the capitol as
> > long as the cars are not leaking oil.
>
> Oh well--so much for that....
> Best--Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:30:56 EDT
Subject: Ocean City photo-op & Hwy 50 trip
I'm tying up someone's phone and am wiped out from the 100+ degree heat, but
tomorrow I'll post all details of today's events and tomorrow's journey.
The big surprise today was that Bob Brown and Bob McElwee paid us a visit at
the designated meeting spot in the morning--they flew in just to make the
photo-op! What a great pair of guys...
More tomorrow--heading for bed.
Best--Michael Oritt (on the road to Tahoe)
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 00:46:49 EDT
Subject: Castrol High Mileage Oil
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 02:19:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Special Edition RWG - 6/16 & 6/17 & 6/18
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 08:58:41 +0200
Subject: HEALEY SPORTSCAR 1947
I came across a very interesting Healey, a Healey Sportscar 1947. Only 23
were made in RHD.
I am interested in buying the car, but despite my research I could not find
any good price indication on this type of car.
I was wondering whether any of you knows about a similar car for sale or
auctioned. This would give me a little bit of indication on how wacko I
could go on the bidding.
I am sure Bill (Emerson) must have come across a couple of these on his
conquest for the book.
The car seems to be in fairly good condition.
I appreciate the feedback.
Regards,
Bruno Verstraete
Healey Coupe 1954
BJ8 1966
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 00:58:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: HEALEY SPORTSCAR 1947
With so few around, it seems it's worth what you are
willing to pay for it. There was one on ebay a while
back in trashed but restorable shape asking $6 to 8K.
Hope that helps.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bruno Verstraete <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> I came across a very interesting Healey, a Healey
> Sportscar 1947. Only 23
> were made in RHD.
> I am interested in buying the car, but despite my
> research I could not find
> any good price indication on this type of car.
> I was wondering whether any of you knows about a
> similar car for sale or
> auctioned. This would give me a little bit of
> indication on how wacko I
> could go on the bidding.
>
> I am sure Bill (Emerson) must have come across a
> couple of these on his
> conquest for the book.
>
> The car seems to be in fairly good condition.
>
> I appreciate the feedback.
> Regards,
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> Healey Coupe 1954
> BJ8 1966
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 00:48:54 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Off on holiday
But it means I will be away from the Team.Net servers for some time, so if
something goes wrong I won't be in a position to fix it. So if you stop
getting mail, please refrain from the 'Is this thing on?' messages and wait
until the middle of next week to panic.
mjb.
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:06:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Castrol High Mileage Oil
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:28:51 -0700
Subject: Re: HEALEY SPORTSCAR 1947
The Healey on ebay was so trashed it was way beyond restoration and it did not
sell. I spoke to someone who had seen it in person.
Blue One Hundred wrote:
> 1947 - that must be a healey Duncan? Is it a coupe or
> convertible?
>
> With so few around, it seems it's worth what you are
> willing to pay for it. There was one on ebay a while
> back in trashed but restorable shape asking $6 to 8K.
> Hope that helps.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Bruno Verstraete <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
> wrote:
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > I came across a very interesting Healey, a Healey
> > Sportscar 1947. Only 23
> > were made in RHD.
> > I am interested in buying the car, but despite my
> > research I could not find
> > any good price indication on this type of car.
> > I was wondering whether any of you knows about a
> > similar car for sale or
> > auctioned. This would give me a little bit of
> > indication on how wacko I
> > could go on the bidding.
> >
> > I am sure Bill (Emerson) must have come across a
> > couple of these on his
> > conquest for the book.
> >
> > The car seems to be in fairly good condition.
> >
> > I appreciate the feedback.
> > Regards,
> >
> > Bruno Verstraete
> > Healey Coupe 1954
> > BJ8 1966
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 07:49:51 EDT
Subject: Re: HEALEY SPORTSCAR 1947
Bill Emerson
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 10:36:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Castrol High Mileage Oil
Don't forget that the really best oil is available in the USA, Penrite Oil
is formulated to be the best for your older engines whether is freshly
rebuilt or have a 100,000 miles on it. Older motors, pre late 70's, don't
like the new thin oils. Penrite's HPR 20W/60 is recommended for all Healeys.
You might take a look at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjcarri/oilinfo/oilinfo.htm
Let me know if I can be of service.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 12:46 AM 6/12/02 EDT, you wrote:
>I think their has been a thread on this subject before, but I couldn't find
>anything in the archives.
>Has anyone tried the High Mileage oil in their Austin Healey? Any
noticeable
>difference? Anyone studied this concept and understand the application and
>the advantages and any downside in using it in a Healey? According to
>Castrol's advertisement, sounds like old engines with high mileage are what
>it is intended for. Don't know technically what is different about high
>mileage oil.
>Appreciate any information or thoughts as I am ready to change my oil before
>heading to Open Roads 2002 at Tahoe.
>Vrooom vrooom,
>John
>100-Six Erika the Red
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 11:42:45 -0500
Subject: Hats, Hats, Hats
I'll still take orders if someone wants a hat as momento and even that
will stop soon.
We sold 60 something hats. Not bad.
If you ordered and haven't received it yet, it's on it's way.
Bob Denton
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From "terry s." <tvett68 at hotmail.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:10:55 +0000
Subject: Re: Castrol High Mileage Oil Tell Us More
_________________________________________________________________
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:50:15 EDT
Subject: Road to Tahoe--Days 1 & 2
About 12 Healeys showed up for the drive to OC which is the Eastern terminus
of highway 50. David and Joyce Stonely (London to Peking) who lives in Rock
Hall, MD hosted the drivers of three cars that had been shipped over from the
UK a few weeks ago: Peter and Ann Hunt of ATW/80 days and Julian Bowen and
Laurence MacDowell, also in a BT-7 rallye car, plus Clive Randall in a 1948
Westland Healey. Just before this group departed David's home to meet others
of us at a prearranged spot enroute to OC they were paid a surprise visit by
Bob Brown and Bob McElwee who flew into BWI to hook up for our departure
west! From the assembly point 10 Healeys (the four mentioned above, plus
myself, Gary Palsgrove and Allen Feldman, Pete Groh and Biff Jones, all of
the Capital Area Healey Club and Steve Byers of North Carolina) proceeded to
OC where a photo-op on the boardwalk had been arranged. The highway sign
showing the distance to Sacramento, CA had been taken down due to road work,
so Ocean City's finest held it over the grouped Healeys for the photo-op.
There were many bikini-clad young girls oggling the cars and many Healey
drivers oggling them in the process, but around three PM we tore ourselves
away and set out west on route 50--some returning home to DC and others of us
to David Stonely's house from where we began the drive this morning.
Yesterday's temperature was about 95+ degrees and I'll take that as an early
test of our cars' cooling systems. The heat notwithstanding, we were all
able to sustain 65 mph while playing tag with 200 degrees at times, but
everyone made it. I'm glad that I installed a Hayden fan--it was on all the
time.
This morning three cars left Rock Hall (myself, Bowen and Hunt), met Steve
Byers in Annapolis and drove west to Frederick, MD, then down thru Harper's
Ferry and arrived in Winchester around 3:00 PM. David Stonely and a chase
car (BJ-9) are following later today and Clive Randall is picking up his
sister at Dulles airport and meeting us later as well. The "Highway 50"
theme not withstanding, and despite the District Counsel's generous offer to
arrange a Driveby Shooting in our honor, we elected to divert around the
built-up DC area due to the heat forecast and stuck to more manageable
roads....
Tomorrow we'll be on 50 out through the mountains of West Virginia and on
into Ohio, stopping for the night in Athens. A front is supposed to pass
over us tonight so perhaps the temp's will be more pleasant.
Best to all and seeya in Tahoe.
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:07:53 -0500
Subject: I.D. TAG ON BN2
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:09:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Castrol High Mileage Oil Tell Us More
Penrite also has a Classic Full Synthetic 10W/50 which is for "modern
classics" such as the MGF and the Mazda MX5 etc.. Because of the other
Synthetics available in the US I do not carry this product, but if there is
enough interest I can order a quantity and have it available.
The Penrite formulas for their oils are set to meet and exceed what was
available for the original engines, transmissions, with or without
overdrives, and differentials for our classic cars.
If you are getting good service from Mobil 1 then by all means stick with
it. I have, however, known some who tried modern synthetics and didn't
like the results so they switched back to real oil.
If you will send your mailing address I would be happy to send a brochure
and about 8 pages of other info you might find interesting.
Also the link I referenced earlier was in a Nov 99 Car and Driver, take a
look if you haven't already.
http://home.earthlink.net/~cjcarri/oilinfo/oilinfo.htm
Thanks for your interest and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 07:10 PM 6/12/02 +0000, you wrote:
>John, not to be argumentative but speaking technically why and how could a
>petroleum based product possibly beat "Mobil 1" 15-50 synthetic oil in terms
>of heat range/lubricity and compatability with all common seals/gasket
>materials? They also have a 10-30, and 5-30- which I agree is too light for
>older and/or high performance applications. My older cars do very well on it
>and so does my modified Healey with a 1968 Mustang V8. Higher engine temps
>just aren't a problem(within reason). NO loss of oil pressure at any engine
>temp we'd experience and vastly reduced wear at start-up. (I have no
>connection with Mobil). Yes it is expensive but compared to the benefits in
>longer life, its cheap. Most major oil companies now produce a all
>synthetic, my experience is with Mobil 1.
>Terry
>1960 BN7
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 20:21:37 +0000
Subject: Tahoe Togs
The hat is great, Thanks so much for creating them...
I'll be staying at the ceasar's resort, look for me in
my cool togs. Anybody have a secrete handshake for lIST
MEMBERS TO USE?
dRIVING THE BJ9...
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 13:55:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe Togs
-------------
At 01:21 PM 6/12/2002, you wrote:
>OK<
>I got my "List" Tahoe hat, just picked up a beautiful
>Oregon Healey club OR2002 shirt, so who's got some
>OR2002 or List Pants and underwear for me?
>
>The hat is great, Thanks so much for creating them...
>I'll be staying at the ceasar's resort, look for me in
>my cool togs. Anybody have a secrete handshake for lIST
>MEMBERS TO USE?
>dRIVING THE BJ9...
>--
>Ira Erbs
>Digs-4 Solutions
>For training,network,PC and
>Macintosh
>"Learning without thinking is
>labor lost; thinking
>without learning is dangerous."
>
> - Chinese Proverb
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From "Bill Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:03:34 -0400
Subject: ID tag on firewall
The number 5593 indicates the batch or order number for about 500 cars between
body 11288 (approximately) to body 11765(approximately).
The car in question should have a Chassis Number about BN2L 229890 to
BN2L229906.
Your neighbor's car is not a Factory LeMans.
Bill Wood
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:48:13 -0600
Subject: fuel suppliers
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:03:07 -0700
Subject: Montreal F1 (No Healey Content)
Thanks
bk
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:12:40 EDT
Subject: EMERSON BOOK
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:32:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Montreal F1 (No Healey Content)
<< We're thinking to take his
motorhome up to the F1 race next year. Anyone know if there are any
facilities for parking motorhomes on/near the race track?
>>
They let a guy named Schmacher do it all the time; why shouldn't you be able
to.
Cheers
Gary
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:39:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Montreal F1 (No Healey Content)
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/12/02 3:10:22 PM, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
> << We're thinking to take his
> motorhome up to the F1 race next year. Anyone know if there are any
> facilities for parking motorhomes on/near the race track?
> >>
>
> They let a guy named Schmacher do it all the time; why shouldn't you be able
> to.
> Cheers
> Gary
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:08:56 EDT
Subject: Re: EMERSON BOOK
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 16:08:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Montreal F1 (No Healey Content)
---------------------
At 03:32 PM 6/12/2002, you wrote:
>In a message dated 6/12/02 3:10:22 PM, bkatz@handsonresearch.com writes:
>
><< We're thinking to take his
>motorhome up to the F1 race next year. Anyone know if there are any
>facilities for parking motorhomes on/near the race track?
> >>
>
>They let a guy named Schmacher do it all the time; why shouldn't you be able
>to.
>Cheers
>Gary
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From JRLNJ at aol.com
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:25:59 EDT
Subject: Transport to Tahoe/ CA
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From "CAS" <CASepich at hotmail.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:58:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Castrol High Mileage Oil Tell Us More
Easy Terry. All "NEW" stuff has a way TIGHTER "seal and gasket application
"system" then our cars do.
Wanna see most of that Mobil 1 go bye bye??
<<so does my modified Healey with a 1968 Mustang V8. >>
Not EVEN the same thing (IMHO).
Cin
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:33:48 -0600
Subject: [Fwd: Just what all British Auto Bums need!]
This was posted by one of my club mates in Nova Scotia. It would be the ideal
thing to sit on and read "British Car"!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
Return-path: <owner-batans-members@staff.corenetworks.com>
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Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 11:00:48 -0300
From: "Geoffrey P. Muttart" <gmuttart@mtdc.ns.ca>
Subject: Just what all British Auto Bums need!
Sender: owner-batans-members@staff.corenetworks.com
To: BATANS <members@batans.ca>
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BATANSkis
Go to:
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/acb/showdetl.cfm?st=0&st2=0&st3=0&CATID=56&Product_ID=2137&DID=10
I'm sure that this product would assist in straining some additional pleasure
from those hours of reading your favourite Brit car mag! :)
Geoff
Geoff Muttart
gmuttart@mtdc.ns.ca
Nova Scotia, Canada
AH 'Bugeye' Sprite
AH 100-Six Type BN4
MG Midget Parts
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 21:07:29 -0400
Subject: Turner Labs lead substitute?
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'bronson'" <bron@rmci.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:00:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: fuel suppliers
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com> wrote:
> Any one local to Lake Tahoe know if there is
> non-ethanol or non MTBE laced
> fuel available? Is NV less restrictive in fuel
> oxygenators?
> Names of stations and locations would be very
> helpful to us "out of towners
> "
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From frank yow <frankyow_99 at yahoo.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 11:38:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: LATEST FIRE REPORT FROM COLORADO
Our fire has grown from 8300 acres to 95oo acres and 600 firefighters, some
from Idaho and the federal government---prisoners from Idaho called heat
seekers, the fire tracters have to climb nearly vertical slopes as flames are
errupting very near them, can you imagine how it must be with all their
equipment on, with the hot sun and all the terrible smoke-- lucky for us the
wind is blowing the fire East and South as we are North and west--- tho the
wind could change-- they said they may not be able to contain the fire until
June 28-- this is only day 3 and it has cost $6,000 so far-- said today bears
were running out and that the fire fighters said they looked as tho they had
had a rough night. They are probably coming our way. We drive down the road
to look at it--- perfect views right from our road--- our sky is still blue but
we can see off in the distance, what looks like a funny cloud---and that is
the smoke cloud. Thanks for the E-Mail--- we plan to go to Utah tomorrow to
see Canyonlands and the Arches and will spend the night there in Moab. Be back
late Friday here. Much love to all, Mom and Frank
Sign-up for Video Highlights of 2002 FIFA World Cup
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 20:24:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 Shelly jack
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 03:42:56 +0000
Subject: Re: fuel suppliers
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 00:32:42 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 Grease Guns
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 21:36:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: fuel suppliers
The increased MTBE in 1992 had no effect on my
healeys, but oddly enough had a big effect on my '68
ford bronco. It had one of those combo mechanical
fuel pumps / vacuum wiper pumps on it, and I ran
through 4 pumps in two years. It would particualarly
crap out after I would fill up at a cheapo gas
station, so I think high MTBE plus high quantities of
alcohol/gasohol probably is a lethal combination for
old style rubber. Of course if it had leaked after
blowing the diaphram, it would have been a fire
hazard.
As a result, I never fill up at cheap no-name stations
with my healeys... so far so good.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- fawcett1187@attbi.com wrote:
> Alan,
> MTBE has been used as an additive since 1972
> everywhere "oxygenates" in gasoline are used, not
> just
> California. California is the only state that
> classifies
> MTBE as a carcinogen, the others classify it simply
> as a
> nuisance. California is also trying to ban it's use
>
> because it has been found in the water table, but
> the
> ban was recently postponed by Gov. Gray Davis due to
> the
> fear of driving gasoline prices ups.
> I have heard that there have been an increased
> number of
> vehicle fires due to the increased use of MTBE since
>
> 1992, but I'm not sure that the statistics will
> actually
> bear this out. MTBE is a flammable solvent that
> could
> easily penetrate and attack rubber fuel hoses
> especially
> older hoses and as such it may increase the fire
> hazard.
> --
> Mark
> 59 BT7
> Torrance Fire Dept
> Fire Investigator
> Underground Storage Tank Inspector
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "ryoung" <ryoung at oro.net>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 23:11:41 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel suppliers
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 08:40:57 +0100
Subject: Re: ID tag on firewall
I believe that your chassis number estimate is a little low
The nearest we have on our register to this body number is
11761.
This has a chassis number 230174.
All the best
>
>The number 5593 indicates the batch or order number for about 500 cars between
>body 11288 (approximately) to body 11765(approximately).
>
>The car in question should have a Chassis Number about BN2L 229890 to
>BN2L229906.
>
>Your neighbor's car is not a Factory LeMans.
>
>Bill Wood
>
--
John Harper
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From DMMax at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 08:46:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Montreal F1 (No Healey Content)
I'm virtually certain that they do not have RV's or any camping on the
Island. I think there are camp grounds outside of the city, but not too
close.
I went 6-7 years straight. Great fun at track and in City, but got too
popular & expensive with the accedence of Jacques V. ( Hookers on Saint
Catherine St. are up 50%)
You have to book VERY EARLY too. Or with GP Tours, which buys blocks of some
of the best seats.
Nothing like that profound pain in the inner ear and momentary loss of
balance, when that first Ferrari goes screaming by at close range, teaching
one that,'Yea, I'm here to hear em, but earplugs have their place.'
Hope you get a chance to go. "Make it so."
Cheers, David Maxwell
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 07:28:01 -0600
Subject: Re: fuel suppliers
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: fuel suppliers
> Just buy gas on the Nevada side of the line. Only
> california adds the MTBE. But FYI the MTBE doesn't
> effect either my BJ8 or my BN1 which came from Chicago
> two years ago.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- frogeye <frogeye@swcp.com> wrote:
> > Any one local to Lake Tahoe know if there is
> > non-ethanol or non MTBE laced
> > fuel available? Is NV less restrictive in fuel
> > oxygenators?
> > Names of stations and locations would be very
> > helpful to us "out of towners
> > "
> >
> > Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> > '59 AH :{) '54 100
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Allen Williams <awill at bama.ua.edu>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:28:50 -0500
Subject: Generator Field Coils
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:08:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Adjustable steering question
On the old wheel, the large ring just behind the wheel
is seized tight, I assume that it is what loosens the
locking pins. Is there any of this mechanism that
will be needed for the new installation, and if so,
how would I go about removing it? (fortunately is was
open enough to allow the removal of the wheel after
removing the circlip).
TIA,
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:49:42 +0000
Subject: looking for adjustable steering column
- Chinese Proverb
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:12:49 -0400
Subject: Sparkplugs
Steve
61BN7
PS... Michael keep the updates coming, I really enjoy reading them, wish I
could have made the trip... sounds great so far.
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From DENewman2 at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:25:33 EDT
Subject: Fuel Suppliers
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 13:38:34 -0700
Subject: Heatshields
Kenny
'61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:44:22 EDT
Subject: Help! - Bugeye brakes
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:08:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Heatshields
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:33:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Heatshields
theswed@hotmail.com writes:
> Do anyone have suggestions (other than Moss #021-783) for replacing the
> original asbestos heatshields on the firewall? Has anyone found something
> that works well and looks good? Thanks.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Tysonoxford at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 17:48:44 EDT
Subject: Tahoe Registration Available
Mal Bruce
905 339 3552
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:04:18 -0700
Subject: for California residents - AB 1058 legislation alert
-----Original Message-----
From: Senator Oller [mailto:Senator.Oller@sen.ca.gov]
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 2:46 PM
To: 'Freese, Ken'
Subject: RE: AB 1058 should be rejected
Unfortunately, AB 1058 has passed the Senate and is currently awaiting the
Governor's signature or veto. I have contacted the Governor and sent out a
press release (see below). I urge everyone to call the Governor's office at
(916)445-2841 and ask him to veto this wrong headed measure.
Sincerely,
Senator Rico Oller
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Press Release
Tuesday, May 14, 2002
Oller Sends Terse Letter To Governor Urging Veto of AB 1058
State Capitol, California - State Senator Rico Oller (R-San Andreas)
delivered a terse letter to Governor Gray Davis Tuesday, urging him to veto
Assembly Bill 1058 (Pavley).
AB 1058 would authorize the California Air Resources Board (CARB), without
any Legislative guidance or oversight, to adopt regulations providing for
the reduction in carbon dioxide emissions from passenger vehicles and
light-duty trucks.
"This bill gives unelected bureaucrats a blank check to potentially require
drivers to retrofit their cars to stop them from producing a naturally
occurring gas," said Oller. "This is the same gas that we exhale and trees
use for food Essentially, this bill seeks to force Californians into
smaller, less-powerful cars by making popular larger vehicles much more
expensive to buy and drive."
Oller said that he voted against the measure when it was heard in the Senate
two weeks ago and has been aggressively working to prevent its passage.
"The automobile is absolutely essential to transportation to this state.
Millions of Californians use vehicles to reach their places of employment
and education everyday. This is particularly true in rural areas where
personal automobiles are the only form of transportation available," said
Oller. "If this bill were to become law, its far-reaching effect could
easily cripple the state's economy."
The bill passed 22-13 in the Senate on May 2, and is now before Governor
Davis awaiting his approval or veto.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:19:59 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 3
I set out early, hopefully to somehow get ahead of the rain but the weather
was as advertised, and I drove the first two-lane 125 mile stretch in a
moderate downpour. FACTOID--Mother's Day was devised in Grafton, WV and
Father's Day in Fairmont, WV. (This is Hallmark country!) In Clarksburg the
road divided, the ceiling began to lift and by the time I got to Ohio the
rain had stopped and the driving was great.
We're stopped for the night in Athens, OH, home of Ohio University. It's Ann
Hunt's birthday tomorrow and Julian and Laurence and I went into town to buy
her a gift--something signifigant of her US tour. We found just the thing:
A Labrador Retreiver toilet paper dispenser (He holds the roll between his
paws.) I'm sure she'll love it.
Tomorrow we're off for Clarksburg, IN, just over the river from Louisville.
The Bluegrass Club has cooked up some big doings and I believe we'll be
picking up a few more cars. The forecast looks good and everyone seems to be
running well.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: frank yow <frankyow_99@yahoo.com>
To: mike batcheld <u2batch@hotmail.com>, David Batchelder
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:21:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 3
> Clarksburg, IN
make that Clarksville!
Michael
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From "Lawrence Mercier" <lmercibn6 at mindspring.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:13:06 -0400
Subject: Heatshields
> Do anyone have suggestions (other than Moss #021-783) for replacing the
> original asbestos heatshields on the firewall? Has anyone found something
> that works well and looks good? Thanks.
>
> Kenny
> '61 BT-7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:30:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Adjustable steering question
Sorry, your email is a bit difficult to understand.
I'm not sure what "large ring" you are talking about
in your email. can you repost and rephrase?
In putting on a derrington wheel and motolita hub, you
should only remove one piece from the original set up
- the old steering wheel. Everything else should stay
in place on the new set up including trafficator parts
and the chromed spring steering shaft cover & rear
ring.
Hope that is clear.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Jim Wood <jwood_kc@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I removed my adjustable steering wheel in
> preparation
> for installation of a Darrington wheel. I have the
> new wheel but the hub is on back order.
>
> On the old wheel, the large ring just behind the
> wheel
> is seized tight, I assume that it is what loosens
> the
> locking pins. Is there any of this mechanism that
> will be needed for the new installation, and if so,
> how would I go about removing it? (fortunately is
> was
> open enough to allow the removal of the wheel after
> removing the circlip).
>
> TIA,
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:58:09 -0400
Subject: Gold Open Roads Grille Badges
[Image][Image]
If the image has been removed by the time you see this note, click here
to see it.
These are beautiful grille badges, which may not leave your trophy case,
except for that special show. My pictures really don't do them
justice. This mailing is just
going to a limited number of people, because the demand may exceed the
remaining available badges pretty quickly. If you are not interested in
one of the 50 Gold
Grille Badges, the Honored Guest Fund is selling chrome unnumbered
grille badges for $30. We only have a few of these left (less than 20).
If you prefer a bar badge,
these can be purchased in chrome from the Open Roads Regalia committee,
if they are still available.
If you are interested in receiving a Gold Numbered Golden Anniversary
Open Roads Grille Badge, please send an email reserving your badge to
John Hunt
(jh67healey@aol.com) prior to mailing your donation to John Hunt at his
California address. Checks should be made available to the Honored
Guest Fund. If you will be at Open Roads, see someone who is around the
Healey boats.
Background on the Honored Guest Fund:
The Healey Honored Guest Fund was started in 1999, after more than a
year of planning, as a perpetual fund. Its stated intent was that of
assisting future event
organizers in their efforts to plan for the Honored Guest portion of
their event, and to help them manage the risk that is involved in
inviting Honored Guests. The inviting
of guests, and the commitments involved, normally come at a point when
the financial capabilities of the event budget are still unknown. By
providing a fund to advance
the Honored Guest travel expenses, a major event expense is assured to
be funded. The Austin Healey Honored Guest Fund has been established to
assist Healey
event organizers in assuming the financial risk of inviting Honored
Guests to events early in the planning stages for the event. The intent
of the Fund is to assure event
organizers that they can invite the appropriate Honored Guests with the
assurance that they can follow through with their commitments without
regard to the eventual
financial success of their event.
Accordingly, the Guest Fund will offer event organizers funding to be
determined for each event, with the funds to be used primarily for the
transportation of the
Honored Guests. The event organizers will select the Honored Guests,
considering the nature and size of the planned event. If the event is
successful, and the funds
are available at the conclusion of the event, the Honored Guest Fund
will be repaid in full the amounts advanced.
This concept of funding, helping, and returning the help will in the
future allow large successful events to assist smaller events to be
successful by inviting interesting
honored guests well in advance, thereby making their event more
appealing and enhancing the total experience of the attendees.
John May for John Hunt (because he is on AOL)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:22:36 EDT
Subject: Peculiar ignition problem
("Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?")
Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans on the road to Tahoe
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:28:58 -0300
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 3
Dean & Sue
----- Original Message -----
From: mds1md@aol.com
To: Awgertoo@aol.com ; healeys@autox.team.net ; CAAHC@yahoogroups.com ;
BGAHC@aol.com ; ahrdstr@hotmail.com ; BlkBT7@aol.com ; cbaustin@sgi.net ;
sales@julian-bowen.co.uk ; tfelts@prodigy.net ; bobmac@i1.net ;
JLore26@aol.com ; WIRKENEL@aol.com ; Secyahca@aol.com ; LarryRPH@aol.com ;
RLoosigian@aol.com ; MBran89793@aol.com ; jeanmc@i1.net ; jc9821@msn.com ;
rlanger@flex.net ; Dotdav@swbell.net ; baysail2@yahoo.com ; evorgslapg@msn.com
; ggilomen@hotmail.com ; peter@hunt.sol.co.uk ; exprexbob@email.msn.com ;
Tganey@post-dispatch.com ; cantrall@wrcresearch.com ; Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com
Cc: Orbittor@aol.com ; Merbear88@aol.com ; soritt@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 3
Dear Michael:
Once again, another great update. I have a couple of questions ...
Are you, or is someone at CAAHC or AHCA saving your updates for reprint in a
newsletter or for other archival purposes???
Yes, the WV state flower IS the big satellite dish - and I hear that they'll
really enjoy them - if / when they get electricity and/or TVs.
And finally, in totally politically incorrect poor taste, in WV isn't
Mother's Day also known as Cousin's Day???
Regards,
Matt
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 22:26:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Peculiar ignition problem
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I'm running a Mallory electronic Unilite distributor and an MSD Blaster coil.
> Beginning yesterday, when I turn off the ignition key the car will usually
> continue running for 3-4 seconds. It is NOT running on as with
> preignition--it is simply RUNNING. Stepping on the gas usually kills the
> engine. The key is definitely shutting off the ignition circuit--I know this
> because my driving lights are wired into it and also the "generator" light in
> the tach comes on when I turn the key off. The engine simply continues to
> run for a few seconds almost like energy is being stored and then depleted.
> No other ignition problems, no missing, no complaints. What's going on
> here--any thoughts or experiences?
>
> ("Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?")
>
> Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans on the road to Tahoe
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 23:18:47 -0400
Subject: Gold Grille Badge URL
http://pws.prserv.net/HGF/
John
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From "Dave Caudle" <caudle1 at charter.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 23:51:28 -0400
Subject: where to meet
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:28:57 -0700
Subject: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:47:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Peculiar ignition problem
Does your MSD coil have a ballast resistor in it?
According ot the MSD site, you MUST have a coil with a
ballast resistor when used with Mallory Unilite
systems:
http://www.msdignition.com/1msdcoil.htm
The coil may also be retaining a charge, and if the
electronic ignition doesn't fully ground the coil when
you turn the ignition off, you may get the conditions
you describe.
I'm not sure if any of this applies to you or not, but
it seems like a distinct possibility.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I'm running a Mallory electronic Unilite distributor
> and an MSD Blaster coil.
> Beginning yesterday, when I turn off the ignition
> key the car will usually
> continue running for 3-4 seconds. It is NOT running
> on as with
> preignition--it is simply RUNNING. Stepping on the
> gas usually kills the
> engine. The key is definitely shutting off the
> ignition circuit--I know this
> because my driving lights are wired into it and also
> the "generator" light in
> the tach comes on when I turn the key off. The
> engine simply continues to
> run for a few seconds almost like energy is being
> stored and then depleted.
> No other ignition problems, no missing, no
> complaints. What's going on
> here--any thoughts or experiences?
>
> ("Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the
> play?")
>
> Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans on the road to Tahoe
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 21:53:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Help! - Bugeye brakes
Did you bleed the brakes in the rear as well? When
you bleed brake lines that are empty, you should bleed
them at all four points. If there is a blockage in
the line somewhere, fluid will not bleed out the back
and that can help you diagnose your problem (i.e. if
the rear brake flex hose is bad & plugged you won't
get any bleeding in the back).
The rear brake slave pistons might be stuck as well...
some firm pushing on the brake pedal should release
them if there is some gunk built up in there.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
> I am visiting my daughter in Maryland and working on
> the Bugeye that I
> restored for her about 8 years ago. We had it
> stored in a large plastic bag
> and removed it for the first time in 4 years last
> week. She had no brakes.
> Upon checking, the reservoir was empty and in
> bleeding the brakes, was able
> to get good pedal pressure again. Adjusted the
> front just fine, but I can't
> get either of the rear brakes adjusted. Brake shoes
> are almost new. To
> adjust, I turned the adjuster too tight, then backe
> off one notch. The wheel
> won't turn when adjusted too much and when turned
> back
> one notch, the pedal will not engage the shoe to
> stop the wheel from
> turning. Any thoughts. I am only spending one more
> day with her and would
> like to get it right for her.
> Thanks in advance,
> Rudy Streng
> BN1, BN4 BT7
> Lenoir, NC
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 01:12:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Peculiar ignition problem
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 01:18:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Generator Field Coils
No problem. This wrapping will not effect performance
of the coils.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Allen Williams <awill@bama.ua.edu> wrote:
> While putting my generator back together the other
> day, I damaged the
> wrapping on end of the field coils- broke away about
> 3/4 inch of the
> wrap on both edges. The question is, will this
> affect the performance of
> the generator, as the function of the tape seems to
> me to bind the coil
> wire rather than insulate. Has anyone repaired the
> coils in place?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 07:40:06 EDT
Subject: Re: where to meet
We are meeting tonight in Clarksville, IN (Just across the Ohio River from
Louisville, KY).
Route 50 Tour
Dinner and Party
Friday, June 14
at the
<A
HREF="http://www.sixcontinentshotels.com/holiday-inn/?_franchisee=SDFCV";>Holiday
Inn | LOUISVILLE-N. KY (CLARKSVILLE,</A>
Click on the above link for hotel information
Everyone is invited to join the Bluegrass Club as we welcome the Route 50
Travelers as they pass through Louisville.
We have a private room off the Champions Grill (formerly Lords of London
Restaurant).
Dinner will be your choice and on separate checks. 7 PM dinner reservation.
After dinner we have the Tack Room reserved for socializing. We will have a
bartender on duty in the room. (Cash Bar)
Please park near the front entrance to the hotel and use the door on the
right marked restaurant.
We have reservations for 45 people and plenty of room for more.
If you would like to stay at the Hotel we have a group rate of $69 per night
under "Austin Healey Club"
Hope everyone can join us!
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:15:03 -0400
Subject: Re: ID tag on firewall
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:28:00 -0400
Subject: Re: for California residents - AB 1058 legislation alert
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass AHCA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "'Jensen'"
<jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:04 PM
Subject: for California residents - AB 1058 legislation alert
> We need to contact Governor Davis now. Smog equipment retrofits could
happen
> with this bill.
> Ken Freese
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Senator Oller [mailto:Senator.Oller@sen.ca.gov]
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 2:46 PM
> To: 'Freese, Ken'
> Subject: RE: AB 1058 should be rejected
>
> Unfortunately, AB 1058 has passed the Senate and is currently awaiting the
> Governor's signature or veto. I have contacted the Governor and sent out a
> press release (see below). I urge everyone to call the Governor's office
at
> (916)445-2841 and ask him to veto this wrong headed measure.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Senator Rico Oller
>
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE Press Release
>
> Tuesday, May 14, 2002
>
> Oller Sends Terse Letter To Governor Urging Veto of AB 1058
>
> State Capitol, California - State Senator Rico Oller (R-San Andreas)
> delivered a terse letter to Governor Gray Davis Tuesday, urging him to
veto
> Assembly Bill 1058 (Pavley).
>
> AB 1058 would authorize the California Air Resources Board (CARB), without
> any Legislative guidance or oversight, to adopt regulations providing for
> the reduction in carbon dioxide emissions from passenger vehicles and
> light-duty trucks.
>
> "This bill gives unelected bureaucrats a blank check to potentially
require
> drivers to retrofit their cars to stop them from producing a naturally
> occurring gas," said Oller. "This is the same gas that we exhale and trees
> use for food Essentially, this bill seeks to force Californians into
> smaller, less-powerful cars by making popular larger vehicles much more
> expensive to buy and drive."
>
> Oller said that he voted against the measure when it was heard in the
Senate
> two weeks ago and has been aggressively working to prevent its passage.
>
> "The automobile is absolutely essential to transportation to this state.
> Millions of Californians use vehicles to reach their places of employment
> and education everyday. This is particularly true in rural areas where
> personal automobiles are the only form of transportation available," said
> Oller. "If this bill were to become law, its far-reaching effect could
> easily cripple the state's economy."
>
> The bill passed 22-13 in the Senate on May 2, and is now before Governor
> Davis awaiting his approval or veto.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:15:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
An option: Go to an auto parts or tool supplier and buy a cheap 12 point 2
/ 3/16" socket. ( in that size, it will be a 3/4" drive, so you'll also
need an adapter to use it with a 1/2" drive bar or ratchet handle.)
You'll need to dress off the working end of the socket on a bench grinder so
that the socket engages the nut cleanly without sliping off - this is
obvious as soon as you see the set-up. I use a long breaker bar while
holding the socket against the hub (actually the lock-tab) with good force,
to avoid slipping. Works real well, and wasn't too expensive - I seem to
recall about $25.00 CDN.
One important reminder: One of the hub nuts is a reverse thread - the left
side, I think. This started with the BN4's, but not necessarily at the
beginning, and went right through to the end. If you look closely at the
hub nuts, they're identified - 'left' and 'right', I believe.
Hope this helps.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:28 PM
Subject: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
Would appreciate hearing from anyone in the Los Angeles area who might
consider loaning or renting me an octagon wrench for the rear axle nuts.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:48:22 -0500
Subject: Firend would like to sell her 76 MGB
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:41:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
You can get an excellent hub spanner -2 13/64" - (octagon) from Steve Jowett,
Northern Healey Center, for 15 UKP; similar ones are available from AH Spares or
Hemphill's Healey Haven (1-800-9-healey), the latter I believe for $25 US.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Earl Kagna wrote:
> Steve:
>
> An option: Go to an auto parts or tool supplier and buy a cheap 12 point 2
> / 3/16" socket. ( in that size, it will be a 3/4" drive, so you'll also
> need an adapter to use it with a 1/2" drive bar or ratchet handle.)
>
> You'll need to dress off the working end of the socket on a bench grinder so
> that the socket engages the nut cleanly without sliping off - this is
> obvious as soon as you see the set-up. I use a long breaker bar while
> holding the socket against the hub (actually the lock-tab) with good force,
> to avoid slipping. Works real well, and wasn't too expensive - I seem to
> recall about $25.00 CDN.
>
> One important reminder: One of the hub nuts is a reverse thread - the left
> side, I think. This started with the BN4's, but not necessarily at the
> beginning, and went right through to the end. If you look closely at the
> hub nuts, they're identified - 'left' and 'right', I believe.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:28 PM
> Subject: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
>
> Would appreciate hearing from anyone in the Los Angeles area who might
> consider loaning or renting me an octagon wrench for the rear axle nuts.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:07:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Octagon_Wrench_loan/rent=3F?=
> Steve:
>
> An option: Go to an auto parts or tool supplier and buy a cheap 12
> point 2 / 3/16" socket. ( in that size, it will be a 3/4" drive, so
> you'll also need an adapter to use it with a 1/2" drive bar or ratchet
> handle.)
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 16:38:58 +0000
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
- Chinese Proverb
> OK, I'll ask the question. How will a 12 pt socket fit on an octagon nut? In
> my mind it is not possible.
>
> > Steve:
> >
> > An option: Go to an auto parts or tool supplier and buy a cheap 12
> > point 2 / 3/16" socket. ( in that size, it will be a 3/4" drive, so
> > you'll also need an adapter to use it with a 1/2" drive bar or ratchet
> > handle.)
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 09:39:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
The 12 point socket will fit the eight point nut just the way it is - the
socket has 12 'notches' and the octagonal nut uses eight of them, (just like
a hexagonal nut uses six of them, and a 'square' nut uses four.)
The grinding is simply to make a better grip on the nut - the working end of
the socket will be somewhat rounded as it comes, and will tend to slip
because the nut is so thin, and also the lock-tab interferes somewhat. It's
much better to grind the face square.
Maybe I'm not describing this as well as I could be, but it works well -
several of us have done it! I believe that as soon as you have such a
socket in your hand, you will see it clearly.
A dedicated hub 'spanner' such as in Ed Drivers' posting is also an
excellent solution - it's just farther away and might wind up costing more
with duties, taxes, shipping, brokerage, etc.
Cheers, ------------------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
Earl,
Could you explain the grinding a little more? Am not sure how you make a
12-point fit and 8-Point.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
> Reply-To: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
> Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:15:20 -0700
> To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
>
> Steve:
>
> An option: Go to an auto parts or tool supplier and buy a cheap 12 point
2
> / 3/16" socket. ( in that size, it will be a 3/4" drive, so you'll also
> need an adapter to use it with a 1/2" drive bar or ratchet handle.)
>
> You'll need to dress off the working end of the socket on a bench grinder
so
> that the socket engages the nut cleanly without sliping off - this is
> obvious as soon as you see the set-up. I use a long breaker bar while
> holding the socket against the hub (actually the lock-tab) with good
force,
> to avoid slipping. Works real well, and wasn't too expensive - I seem to
> recall about $25.00 CDN.
>
> One important reminder: One of the hub nuts is a reverse thread - the left
> side, I think. This started with the BN4's, but not necessarily at the
> beginning, and went right through to the end. If you look closely at the
> hub nuts, they're identified - 'left' and 'right', I believe.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc: "Dean Caccavo" <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:28 PM
> Subject: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
>
>
> Would appreciate hearing from anyone in the Los Angeles area who might
> consider loaning or renting me an octagon wrench for the rear axle nuts.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 15:46:17 EDT
Subject: Ocen City to Tahoe--Day 4
As usual we left from the hotel in dribs and drabs. Shortly after leaving
Athens I ran thru a detour and mistakenly turned onto the wrong highway--Ohio
SR 32. By the time I figured out where I was and that 32 paralleled 50 to
Cincinatti there was no sense in backtracking. As it happened, it was a
wonderful road and I zipped across Southern Ohio, took the beltway around
Cincinatti through Kentucky and rejoined 50 just over the Indiana border.
I had identified a scenic route, highway 56, that tracks along the Ohio
river, so I picked this up and ran through some wonderful old riverfront
towns with names such as Aurora, Rising Sun and Patriot, along the river's
floodplain. Other villages were no more and are just placenames on the map,
no doubt casualties of the demise of the old Riverboats. There were,
however, several towboats with large rafts of barges bound both up and down
the river.
The road passed through Historic Madison, IN where I stopped on the Main
Street for lunch at "Hinkle's Hamburgers" (founded 1937 I believe). It's one
of those places that makes those little killer burgers fried on the
skillet-top, so I ordered up two with a chocolate shake to boot (sorry Mary!)
and watched the world go by on a table outside the restaurant. From there I
dropped down onto SR 62 and so into Clarksville.
Almost upon entering Indiana the country and roads became increasingly more
pleasant, and I shared the highway with more and more agricultural farm
equipment. The barns have changed from shed to gambrill roofs and silos are
more in evidence. This is what I think they call "Hoosier Country" and it
looks just like what I always thought Indiana should look like. I'm pleased
to report that the corn crop is doing well.
Julian and Laurance followed into the hotel right behind me and I'm off to
visit with them in the lobby. Others will no doubt be arriving as the
afternoon goes on. The Bluegrass Austin-Healey Club has scheduled a banquet
for our group tonight in the hotel. Tomorrow we drive to St. Louis and meet
up with another 15 or 20 cars. We lay over there Sunday and depart Monday.
More later.
Best to all--Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 17:24:30 EDT
Subject: Tach drive seal
I drive a 100 but I suspect that they may be the same for all cars--the part
looks like a rubber donut about 3/4" in diameter with a round spring around
the hole on one face.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 18:43:03 -0500
Subject: Minilite Replicas
I'm in the market for some Minilite replica knock-off wheels for my '57 BN4,
and would like some advice and possible sources for a set. I know there has
been some offers on the list from time to time, and if there are any orders
from the UK coming up, I'd like to add my name to the list.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
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From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 18:43:01 -0500
Subject: Early BN1 Carpet/Paint Question
I'm helping someone who needs to obtain the correct Healey blue for a respray
on his early BN1. He also needs a high quality "correct" carpet kit. He
lives in the northern California area, and would also like to have it
installed by a reputable source.
Please respond to me, and I will pass the information along to him.
Much thanks for your help,
Scott Helms
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 09:55:41 +1000
Subject: Update to Healey site
cylinder engine block project. Enjoy.
Regards
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 19:52:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Minilite Replicas
<< Hello,
I'm in the market for some Minilite replica knock-off wheels for my '57 BN4,
and would like some advice and possible sources for a set. I know there has
been some offers on the list from time to time, and if there are any orders
from the UK coming up, I'd like to add my name to the list.
Thanks, >>
There are several manufacturers on the market making "Minilite Replicas" such
as Panasport and Superlite. In addition to Scott's possible interest, I'd
like to know if anyone has tried any of these brands on their Healey and if
so, what experience they've had.
Cheers
Gary
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From "CAS" <CASepich at hotmail.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 19:40:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
You wrote and I quote "A dedicated hub 'spanner' such as in Ed Drivers'
posting is also an excellent solution -"
I am guessing you mean this:
<<You can get an excellent hub spanner -2 13/64" - (octagon) from Steve
Jowett,
Northern Healey Center, for 15 UKP; similar ones are available from AH
Spares or
Hemphill's Healey Haven (1-800-9-healey), the latter I believe for $25 US.
>>
THEN you wrote and I quote: "- it's just farther away and might wind up
costing more
with duties, taxes, shipping, brokerage, etc"
Huuum. You can't afford the right tool for the job?? AND you advocate
using the WRONG one??
That is REALLY nice of you especially in light of the ENORMOUS expenditure
of @$25.00!!!
Kinda makes me think I wouldn't want a motor, tranny. suspension, nor brakes
done by you.
Cin
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 18:03:50 -0700
Subject: Tahoe Healey Wall / resend
----- Original Message -----
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 9:10 AM
Subject: Tahoe Healey Wall
> To All,
>
> Since finishing my Healey trailer (box) I have attend several
> Healey events with it.
>
> During these events I have requested all participants to sign
> the interior walls, "The Healey Wall"
>
> The trailer will be parked at the Horizon behind the motorhome
> flying the Union Jack and Checkered flags
>
> Please stop by and sign the wall.
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 Tri-Carb
> 59/60 BN7 Nasty Boy
>
> p.s. I will be arriving Friday, vacuum, air, and tools will be available.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 21:25:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Update to Healey site
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: Update to Healey site
> Hello All
> I have just updated the site with some new images of the DMD Australia 6
>
> cylinder engine block project. Enjoy.
> Regards
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 22:49:59 -0400
Subject: engine painting tidbits
Tore down another BJ8 (67) engine compartment for repaint and detailing.
This engine was also blue under the green paint, distibutor was in place
while painted , and most interestingly the engine i.d. plate was definatly
masked before painting just inboard of the rivets.
For those who get into this kind of stuff.
Carroll Phillips
Top Down Restorations
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 20:58:01 -0700
Subject: Frozen Knockoff Blues
I'm stuck with a stuck knockoff and I've destroyed my wooden wrench trying
to get it off. This is a newish knockoff I've had off within the last 6 or 8
months.
Can I use Kroil to free it or do I have to destroy it to get it off by
hitting it with a sledge hammer.
Any guidance would be much appreciated!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 21:25:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Frozen Knockoff Blues
> Hello List,
>
> I'm stuck with a stuck knockoff and I've destroyed my wooden wrench trying
> to get it off. This is a newish knockoff I've had off within the last 6 or 8
> months.
>
> Can I use Kroil to free it or do I have to destroy it to get it off by
> hitting it with a sledge hammer.
>
> Any guidance would be much appreciated!
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
IMHO Kroil is magic. Start there with a good soak and then wail on it with a
heavy soft
lead hammer. If that fails, go to your sledge, they're not that expensive to
replace.
Bill Barnett
Santa Ana, Ca
BN1 #663
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 23:10:08 -0700
Subject: Three dollar rear axle seal driver
I cut a 1" slice off the union--this slips into the area normally occupied
by the wheel bearing and functions as a bushing for centering the driver
over the seal. The reducer is exactly the same diameter as the seal and it
drives the seal down into its recessed area. The PVC pipe is plenty strong
for this task and has the added advantage of not hurting the metal edges of
the seal recess.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 23:10:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Frozen Knockoff Blues
Before you beat the hell out of it, try packing the knockoff in dry ice for an
hour or two.
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar
bn1@pacbell.net wrote:
> Steve Gerow wrote:
>
> > Hello List,
> >
> > I'm stuck with a stuck knockoff and I've destroyed my wooden wrench trying
> > to get it off. This is a newish knockoff I've had off within the last 6 or 8
> > months.
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 23:20:18 -0700
Subject: Varley's site/DMD Engine
One would imagine the 3.8 liter version (232 cu in) would put out around 240
bhp with a set of Webers and DMD's high-lift roller rocker arms.
My question--is the car they finally put this engine into going to qualify
as a "Nasty Boy"? Seems appropriate.
Wonder what the use of the 3 liter version is when the cost would be
essentially the same for the 3.8. Why turn down free inches?
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 22:58:21 -0700
Subject: Frozen Knockoff Thawed!
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 07:49:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
I believe that you are all talking about a spanner/socket to fit late
BN1s onwards. The early BN1s had smaller hub nuts.
All the best
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 08:07:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Frozen Knockoff Blues
I am not sure of the best way to remove this but could it be that the
threads have "bottomed"? Over recent years I have suffered from this due
to poor quality reproduction knock offs. Their tapers are machined too
"deep" and the threads bind on the end of hub rather than the taper
"biting". One then keeps on tightening because the wheel still seems
loose and the end of the hub thread jams.
If this is the case then only brute force will shift the jammed thread.
Perhaps you could make up a long heavy bar with strong "fingers" around
the ears! If the knock off has jammed as above then it is scrap anyway.
It is the hub that needs to be left in good shape.
All the best
>
>I'm stuck with a stuck knockoff and I've destroyed my wooden wrench trying
>to get it off. This is a newish knockoff I've had off within the last 6 or 8
>months.
>
>Can I use Kroil to free it or do I have to destroy it to get it off by
>hitting it with a sledge hammer.
>
>Any guidance would be much appreciated!
>
--
John Harper
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 09:57:30 -0400
Subject: No turn signal
I have a prob I need help with. I have no flashing bulb for the LF turn
signal of the BN7.
The general history is the steering box has been removed, rebuilt, and
reinstalled. The trafficator removed and reinstalled. Things worked
perfectly before any work was begun.
The details are all turn signals and the dash indicator work but not the left
front. Checking with a volt meter I get intermittent power to the bulb holder
but bulb will not flash. With meter attached to the bulb holder I do not get
the voltage once I insert the bulb either. Showing intermettent voltage on #2
terminal of the relay too. Resistence check on the bulb shows OK. Does not
work with two other bulbs either. Have cleaned the connections for the traf
harness.
Any suggestions as to what to check?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 12:00:07 -0400
Subject: RE: No turn signal
The problem that you describe would appear to be caused by resistance in
the supply to that bulb.
Because your volt meter does not use much current there is a sufficient
supply to activate it, but, when the load of the bulb is applied the
circuit the resistance at the point of failure is sufficient to
substantially reduce current flow and thus indicate that there is no
voltage.
Best thing to do is first take the power and load connectors off your
flasher unit and join the two leads together. By doing this you will
avoid damaging the flasher if you inadvertently short something to
ground and you will also ensure that the action of the flasher unit will
not give you false readings.
You mentioned that the voltage at terminal 2 on the turn signal relay
was inconsistent. If this is still the case after removing the flasher
from the circuit then the contacts in the relay are suspect. The problem
is certainly at or after the relay because if it was ahead of the relay
all the signals would be affected.
There is a very good article on Larry Varley's web site as I recall on
servicing the relay.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 15-Jun-02 9:58 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: No turn signal
Hello Listers,
I have a prob I need help with. I have no flashing bulb for the LF turn
signal of the BN7.
The general history is the steering box has been removed, rebuilt, and
reinstalled. The trafficator removed and reinstalled. Things worked
perfectly before any work was begun.
The details are all turn signals and the dash indicator work but not the
left
front. Checking with a volt meter I get intermittent power to the bulb
holder
but bulb will not flash. With meter attached to the bulb holder I do
not get
the voltage once I insert the bulb either. Showing intermettent voltage
on #2
terminal of the relay too. Resistence check on the bulb shows OK. Does
not
work with two other bulbs either. Have cleaned the connections for the
traf
harness.
Any suggestions as to what to check?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 12:00:27 -0400
Subject: RE: No turn signal
The problem that you describe would appear to be caused by resistance in
the supply to that bulb.
Because your volt meter does not use much current there is a sufficient
supply to activate it, but, when the load of the bulb is applied the
circuit the resistance at the point of failure is sufficient to
substantially reduce current flow and thus indicate that there is no
voltage.
Best thing to do is first take the power and load connectors off your
flasher unit and join the two leads together. By doing this you will
avoid damaging the flasher if you inadvertently short something to
ground and you will also ensure that the action of the flasher unit will
not give you false readings.
You mentioned that the voltage at terminal 2 on the turn signal relay
was inconsistent. If this is still the case after removing the flasher
from the circuit then the contacts in the relay are suspect. The problem
is certainly at or after the relay because if it was ahead of the relay
all the signals would be affected.
There is a very good article on Larry Varley's web site as I recall on
servicing the relay.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 15-Jun-02 9:58 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: No turn signal
Hello Listers,
I have a prob I need help with. I have no flashing bulb for the LF turn
signal of the BN7.
The general history is the steering box has been removed, rebuilt, and
reinstalled. The trafficator removed and reinstalled. Things worked
perfectly before any work was begun.
The details are all turn signals and the dash indicator work but not the
left
front. Checking with a volt meter I get intermittent power to the bulb
holder
but bulb will not flash. With meter attached to the bulb holder I do
not get
the voltage once I insert the bulb either. Showing intermettent voltage
on #2
terminal of the relay too. Resistence check on the bulb shows OK. Does
not
work with two other bulbs either. Have cleaned the connections for the
traf
harness.
Any suggestions as to what to check?
TIA
Keith Pennell
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 09:04:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
-Roland
On Sat, 15 Jun 2002 07:49:44 +0100, John Harper
<John@jharper.demon.co.uk> wrote:
:: Just a word of caution.
::
:: I believe that you are all talking about a spanner/socket to fit late
:: BN1s onwards. The early BN1s had smaller hub nuts.
::
:: All the best
::
:: --
:: John Harper
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From Jim Morrison <nljm at shaw.ca>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:52:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
JM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAS
Sent: 14-Jun-02 5:41 PM
To: Earl Kagna; Steve Gerow
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
Gee Earl!?!?
You wrote and I quote "A dedicated hub 'spanner' such as in Ed Drivers'
posting is also an excellent solution -"
I am guessing you mean this:
<<You can get an excellent hub spanner -2 13/64" - (octagon) from Steve
Jowett,
Northern Healey Center, for 15 UKP; similar ones are available from AH
Spares or
Hemphill's Healey Haven (1-800-9-healey), the latter I believe for $25 US.
>>
THEN you wrote and I quote: "- it's just farther away and might wind up
costing more
with duties, taxes, shipping, brokerage, etc"
Huuum. You can't afford the right tool for the job?? AND you advocate
using the WRONG one??
That is REALLY nice of you especially in light of the ENORMOUS expenditure
of @$25.00!!!
Kinda makes me think I wouldn't want a motor, tranny. suspension, nor brakes
done by you.
Cin
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From "Michael Salter" <magicare at rogers.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:35:06 -0400
Subject: RE: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Morrison
Sent: 15-Jun-02 2:52 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
Oh, joy...
He's B-A-A-A----A-A-A-A-C-K !!!!
JM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of CAS
Sent: 14-Jun-02 5:41 PM
To: Earl Kagna; Steve Gerow
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: Octagon Wrench loan/rent?
Gee Earl!?!?
You wrote and I quote "A dedicated hub 'spanner' such as in Ed Drivers'
posting is also an excellent solution -"
I am guessing you mean this:
<<You can get an excellent hub spanner -2 13/64" - (octagon) from Steve
Jowett,
Northern Healey Center, for 15 UKP; similar ones are available from AH
Spares or
Hemphill's Healey Haven (1-800-9-healey), the latter I believe for $25
US.
>>
THEN you wrote and I quote: "- it's just farther away and might wind up
costing more
with duties, taxes, shipping, brokerage, etc"
Huuum. You can't afford the right tool for the job?? AND you advocate
using the WRONG one??
That is REALLY nice of you especially in light of the ENORMOUS
expenditure
of @$25.00!!!
Kinda makes me think I wouldn't want a motor, tranny. suspension, nor
brakes
done by you.
Cin
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 18:35:15 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 5
I ran with Julian Bowen and Laurence McDowall, travelling in one of the UK
rallye cars. From I-65 we took Indiana SR 60 west and then joined into
Highway 50 near Shoals, IN, (There's a watermelon-eating contest there on
July 6th), then stayed on 50 all the way to tonight's hotel. Driving in
Indiana is beautiful--many day lillies volunteering along the edges of the
cornfields and all the nice stuff that I noted yesterday.
Today's road signage was most interesting: Next to the Black Owl motel was
a church's sign stating "Forbidden fruit makes a bad jam"; Below the sign
for the Indiana Correctional Institute was another one saying "Do note pick
up hithchikers" (that makes sense!); and--my favorite for the day--an
industry-sponsored billboard stating "Beef Makes Meals More Satisfactory".
I was also admonished to "Chew Mailpouch"--who thought up that name, I
wonder?
We passed through Olney Illinois ("Home of the White Squirrels") and in the
pretty town of Salem we had a picnic in William Jennings Bryant Park (he was
from there). We continued on to the St. Louis Beltway which coincides with
50 and took it over the Mississippi River (it looked pretty muddy) around to
Sunset Hills. The Gateway Club is hosting us tonight at a restaurant next to
the hotel and I'm off to there now. BTW, we were joined this morning by
several more cars: Chuck and Edie Anderson and Dave and Carry Caudle of NC,
Sonny Moore and his son from the Louisville area trailering a bugeye, and I'm
sure I'm leaving someone out. Marion Brantley from Florida, and Gary
Palsgrove and Allen Feldman from my DC area club also arrived this afternoon.
I'll post more tomorrow--we're taking a layday here tomorrow before Monday's
departure. The locals have provided Keith Bester's garage for a maintenance
shop and I need to get under my car for a few small tasks.
Best for now--Michael Oritt
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From "Linwood Rose" <linwoodrose at hotmail.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 22:10:02 -0400
Subject: Smith's heater water valve question
I am rebuilding my 60 BT7 Smiths Heater and ran into a small assembly
problem associated with the new water valve. The water valve adaptor plate
at the bottom of the water valve is held to the top of the heater box with a
washer made of a soft metal (I assume aluminum?). The washer is cone shaped
and is meant to be bent to fit and secure the adaptor. However, I am not
sure how I fasten it to the base of the adaptor. Do I just push it down? If
so with what? Do I put the small end against the adaptor and push or the
large end?
Does anyone have experience with this? Also does the O Ring fit between
the top of the water valve and the adaptor plate? Or does it go between the
adaptor plate and the heater box top as the catalog illustration shows?
Thank you very much.
Lin Rose
roselh@jmu.edu
FAX 540-434-5960
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 21:25:11 -0500
Subject: Rubber ball joint grease boots
Help!
Alan (Soon naming my BJ8 as "Fun-aint-it"")
HBJ8L/34297
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 19:29:57 -0700
Subject: Where to lean
Thanks
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 22:54:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Rubber ball joint grease boots
Just did this replacement on the BJ8 and BN7 about two weeks ago. All 4 on
the BN7 were shot in about 2 years as you experienced. They came from HS I
believe. The replacments came from Moss and look the same. Guess I will be
replacing them in another 2 years. Only replaced 2 on the BJ8 as the other
2 looked good still - after 10 years! The old rubber had a very different
feel and appearance. Wish I knew where they came from!
I agree. Seems like we could get better quality rubber parts. But this
theme has been around before and little if anything seems to have changed.
Keith Pennell
> I discovered last week that the rubber boots I put on two years ago were
shot.
> They were split, cracked and totally useless. I ordered replacements from
AH
> Spares since the two year boots were from Moss figuring to get boots that
were
> different brand. Started replacement today and discovered they looked the
same
> as those that failed. In two years they are still being sold. Am I the
only
> one that has had this experience? It was not long age that there were a
couple
> of messages that talked about Jaguar ball joint boots. Has someone
discovered
> a boot that will last?
>
> Help!
>
> Alan (Soon naming my BJ8 as "Fun-aint-it"")
> HBJ8L/34297
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 22:50:59 -0400
Subject: Gold Numbered Badges follow up
John Hunt
1031 Burlington Dr.
Santa Maria, CA 93455
Make the check payable to "Honored Guest Fund"
Thanks,
John May
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From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 00:58:36 -0500
Subject: Re: No turn signal
I had the same problem about a month ago and John trifari guided me through a
check of the flasher relay - also mentioned his article in the Healey Marque.
The archives should have it or email me and I'll explain with reference to the
schematic of the relay.
Dick Brill
'62 BT7 Tricarb
Keith Pennell wrote:
> Hello Listers,
>
> I have a prob I need help with. I have no flashing bulb for the LF turn
> signal of the BN7.
>
> The general history is the steering box has been removed, rebuilt, and
> reinstalled. The trafficator removed and reinstalled. Things worked
> perfectly before any work was begun.
>
> The details are all turn signals and the dash indicator work but not the left
> front. Checking with a volt meter I get intermittent power to the bulb holder
> but bulb will not flash. With meter attached to the bulb holder I do not get
> the voltage once I insert the bulb either. Showing intermettent voltage on #2
> terminal of the relay too. Resistence check on the bulb shows OK. Does not
> work with two other bulbs either. Have cleaned the connections for the traf
> harness.
>
> Any suggestions as to what to check?
>
> TIA
> Keith Pennell
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:30:07 +1000
Subject: Re: Varley's site/DMD Engine
Steve Gerow wrote:
> The DMD engine is going to rock(et)!
>
> One would imagine the 3.8 liter version (232 cu in) would put out around 240
> bhp with a set of Webers and DMD's high-lift roller rocker arms.
>
> My question--is the car they finally put this engine into going to qualify
> as a "Nasty Boy"? Seems appropriate.
>
> Wonder what the use of the 3 liter version is when the cost would be
> essentially the same for the 3.8. Why turn down free inches?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 03:59:15 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Honey
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 03:06:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Larry Varley or other Listers:collapsable steering
I've been looking for some time to retrofit a
collapsable steering column to my BJ8 for safety
reasons. I've had my eye on Cape's unit, but the only
drawback is I would have to give up the trafficator...
so it wouldn't look original.
The last time I saw Robert Congdon (here in HK), he
mentioned to me briefly that amongst racers in
Australia it was common to use a triumph collapsable
set up that would allow me to keep the trafficator.
Is he full of it or is there an old triumph setup that
I can modify to fit on my BJ8? If so, do you know
what car and year I can find them on? Or do you have
any other solutions to this?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 06:29:14 -0700
Subject: Request for alternate rubber parts source
262-220 Steering LInkage dust boots--riddled with cracks after 2 months use.
280-140 Rubber Pad, Lucas Mirror--almost in pieces after 1 year.
I'm wondering if there's an alternate source for these parts which is known
for a fact to get their rubber from a different source than they do.
This reminds me of the old European rubber from the 50s and 60s which wasn't
worth a damn--and we don't even have the smog that used to eat that stuff.
I've also sent an email to Moss regarding this.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 15:47:37 +0200
Subject: Re: Larry Varley or other Listers:collapsable steering
I have a Cape unit and I retained the trafficator, stripped of its internal
parts. I simply made a metal bracket that screws into the steering wheel hub
and which in turn serves as an attaching point for the trafficator. The
trafficator will revolve around with the steering wheel but it looks
original. I transfered the turn signal and horn to a Lucas lever that
attaches to the outer column. It is pushed in to blow the horn.
All works beautiful but beware of one thing. The column was about 20 cm too
long when delivered from Cape. So I had to shorten it myself.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From <Austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 09:14:41 -0500
Subject: Thanks and another question
Thanks to all who answered my paint, carpet, and Minilite questions. I will
pass the information on to the rightful recipient.
Now I have another question......
Where can I obtain the proper wire ends for my wiring harness. I see a lot of
various designs that would work fine, but I would rather locate the correct
fittings if they are still available.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 07:27:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Request for alternate rubber parts source
I have had the same sort of experience with some of the rubber bits from
Moss. In addition, I have found some to not fit correctly. I would suggest
that you give Marty Macgregor a try. I have had good luck with his rubber
parts, and he is very knowledgeable. http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 6:29 AM
Subject: Request for alternate rubber parts source
> I've had the following rubber issues lately on parts ordered from Moss:
>
> 262-220 Steering LInkage dust boots--riddled with cracks after 2 months
use.
> 280-140 Rubber Pad, Lucas Mirror--almost in pieces after 1 year.
>
> I'm wondering if there's an alternate source for these parts which is
known
> for a fact to get their rubber from a different source than they do.
>
> This reminds me of the old European rubber from the 50s and 60s which
wasn't
> worth a damn--and we don't even have the smog that used to eat that stuff.
>
> I've also sent an email to Moss regarding this.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:02:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 5
> I was also admonished to "Chew Mailpouch"--who thought up that name, I
> wonder?
As well you should have been! Good stuff because it's not nearly as sweet as
Redman or Beechnut. Ah, the good old days when nothing was bad for you.
http://www.thebarnjournal.org/stories/story010/
More Mail Pouch barns for you.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 20:05:52 +0200
Subject: Another new Healey book
in the latest 'Revcounter' (AH-Club UK-Journal) there is an add for the Haynes
Hardback
book: Austin Healey, Haynes Great Cars by Bill Piggott (A history of classics),
ISBN 1
85960 850 7. Price 19,99 GBP
Seems to be another new book. Don't know more than this add. Haven't searched
the Haynes
UK website www.haynes.co.uk .
Does anyone know more about this book ?
BTW: The Bill Emerson Healey book is actually from a UK based publisher with
the URL:
www.coteriepress.com There are more informations.
Best regards
Martin
Germany
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 19:56:09 +0200
Subject: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
16:09 Sun - Trifecta and three-time victory for Audi
The team of Frank Biela, Tom Kristensen and Emanuele Pirro have won the 70th
edition of
the 24 Hours of Le Mans in front of 220,000 spectators. Audi has finished 1-2-3
this year,
marking their third consecutive win with the same team.
As far as I know, this has never been achieved before !
Number 4 is the Bentley.
If you like to know more (the Corvettes have been successful, too) have a look
at
http://www.lemans.org/
Enjoy
Martin
Germany
AH BN 4
Audi A3 quattro < G > 8-)) !!
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:07:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Request for alternate rubber parts source
> Hey Steve and All
>
> Try your local Hyundai dealer, almost .
> exact as OEM.
>
> P/N 56828-21010
> "Cover-Dust Tie Rod End"
>
> I've used these for several years with
> no deterioration, Zero, Not, Nodda.
>
> Mucho Goodoo Thick Rubber
>
> Kirk Kvam
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 6:29 AM
> Subject: Request for alternate rubber parts source
>
>
> > I've had the following rubber issues lately on parts ordered from Moss:
> >
> > 262-220 Steering LInkage dust boots--riddled with cracks after 2 months
> use.
> > 280-140 Rubber Pad, Lucas Mirror--almost in pieces after 1 year.
> >
> > I'm wondering if there's an alternate source for these parts which is
> known
> > for a fact to get their rubber from a different source than they do.
> >
> > This reminds me of the old European rubber from the 50s and 60s which
> wasn't
> > worth a damn--and we don't even have the smog that used to eat that
stuff.
> >
> > I've also sent an email to Moss regarding this.
> > --
> > Steve Gerow
> > Pasadena CA
> > 59 BN6
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 16:23:39 -0400
Subject: Re: no turn signal
Keith Pennell
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From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:59:22 +0100
Subject: Re: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
Peter Dzwig
PS Well done Bentley...next year!!!!
Helga & Martin Heim wrote:
>FYI, for all car / racing nuts in the world.
>
>16:09 Sun - Trifecta and three-time victory for Audi
>The team of Frank Biela, Tom Kristensen and Emanuele Pirro have won the 70th
>edition of
>the 24 Hours of Le Mans in front of 220,000 spectators. Audi has finished
>1-2-3 this year,
>marking their third consecutive win with the same team.
>As far as I know, this has never been achieved before !
>
>Number 4 is the Bentley.
>
>If you like to know more (the Corvettes have been successful, too) have a look
>at
>http://www.lemans.org/
>
>Enjoy
>
>Martin
>Germany
>AH BN 4
>Audi A3 quattro < G > 8-)) !!
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 14:24:00 -0700
Subject: 100/Six shocks with Australian Regd Design# ?
I am just in the process of swapping my leaking rear shocks with some
new ones from Moss.
The reason I am writing this is that the shocks provided by Moss have
a nice big paper sticker on the front that reads amongst other things
"MADE IN U.K." Then I am reading the embossed text on the actual
shock and I stumble across this on the rear of the unit:
"REGD: DESIGN NO873885
AUSTRALIAN REGD DESIGN NO. 32712"
Now here am I an Aussie living and working in California purchasing
parts for a '57 Healey and I see this?
Anyone shed some light on this for me ... they must be great shocks of course!
Thanks
Rohan
(Longbridge BN4 ... with Aussie designed shocks?)
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 14:26:46 -0700
Subject: Re: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:26:43 -0700
Subject: Re: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
By the way, the Bentley Speed 8 is Audi powered too. All so very complicated.
Bob
Steve Gerow wrote:
> So let me get it straight--all three of these drivers have won 3 years in a
> row?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
> >> The team of Frank Biela, Tom Kristensen and Emanuele Pirro have won the
>70th
> >> edition of
> >> the 24 Hours of Le Mans
> > From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
> > Organization: Summaventures Ltd
> > Reply-To: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
> > Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:59:22 +0100
> > To: Helga & Martin Heim <hm.heim@t-online.de>
> > Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
> >
> > I can confirm that whereas a number of teams have done won three years
> > in a row, this is the first time ever that the same team has one for
> > three consecutive years at Le Mans.
> >
> > Peter Dzwig
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:48:33 -0700
Subject: Re: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
Steve Gerow wrote:
> In the 1920s, Wolf Barnato won 3 years running for Bentley, but had a
> different co-driver one time out of the three.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> > Reply-To: "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
> > Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 18:26:43 -0700
> > To: Steve Gerow <sgerow@singular.com>
> > Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: 24h Le Mans 2002 [no Healey content]
> >
> > All three drivers of the number one car. I know it gets confusing.
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From Jerry Rude <gdrude at pacbell.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 16:09:02 -0700
Subject: Help - inner fender panel
I'm in a bit of a bind, and need some help. I just got the BJ8
frame/chassis back from the blasters, and new "lacy" sections have
surfaced. Two in fact.
The first is the floor board on the drivers side, just below the pedals
where the heat shields bolt. This shouldn't be a problem as I can make
that one, it being flat and all.
The second area, quite unexpected, is the passenger front inner fender
panel. It is rusted from the seam inwards, all over. A new one is quite
expensive ($370 or so from Moss), which is beyond my reach right now.
Anyone have an old chassis with a fair to good inner fender panel? I
need the section from the seam inwards. If it has a bad section where
it spot welds to the frame, thats okay as I can splice in a flat piece.
Jerry Rude
Prather California (near Fresno)
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From "Charlie & Adriane" <chadstew at texas.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 19:04:12 -0500
Subject: The Great Race
A '54 100M, '53 100-4, Triumph Spitfire and a couple of rice burners made a
road trip from Austin to San Antonio, TX to cheer on Peter Rafe Williams and
his navigator, Bruce Richards in their debut of The Great Race. Peter has
entered his first race in a '56 A-H, a very nice restored red over black 100M.
After introducing ourselves, he let us check out his car and all the equipment
for a very long and desolate drive to Anaheim, CA. Peter was sporting a
wicked blister on the top of his foot as the result of an air leak from the
tranmission tunnel, that would explain all the duck tape (around the tunnel
opening)... yep, duck tape saves the day again!
I stood at the start line with my 15 yo daughter for 1 1/2 hours to make sure
I was in a primo spot for a videotape of Peter's start. Unfortunately, I ran
out of tape before the Healey had it's start, so of course I re-wound the tape
and made sure I had enough for the full length of Peters intro and take off.
Wow, what a beautiful sight! I have to admit, I fantasized it was my daughter
and I making that journey... I was very jealous!
On our way back to Austin, we ran into a very welcome rain storm with the top
down (it was HOT as He!!). When we hit the wall of rain, I looked at Amanda
and she looked at me, we both had huge grins on our faces. It was one of
those special moments with your kid that you know you won't forget.
I hope you guys have an opportunity to meet Peter and Bruce and cheer these
two on.
Cheers,
Charlie and Amanda Stewart
Georgetown, TX
'53 A-H BN1
'71 TR-6
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:01:21 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 6
An informal display of the Highway 50 group and Gateway Healey folks' cars
took place this morning in front of the hotel and as a result of an
announcement in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch many other LBC's showed up along
with lots of the general public. Around 10:00 any of us who cared to go were
transported in BJ-9's to the Gateway Arch down on the river while guards
supplied by the Gateway Club were left posted around the cars. It was a
clear day and the view from the top of the arch was great. The Mississipi
River is, I guess, at a fairly high stage as a road along the waterfront
disappeared underwater and reappeared from time to time, looking something
like the back of the Loch Ness Monster.
This afternoon I took the opportunity to make use of the garage of Keith
Bester which apparently doubles as the clubhouse for the GAHC. Nice set-up
with a chandelier and oriental rugs plus a hydraulic lift.... I had been
told by Peter Hunt and Julian Bowen, both of whom learned from personal
experience, to remove the fiberglass-tape lagging from my tubular exhaust
manifold as it promotes rapid corrosion of the mild steel. About an hour
under the car and it was "off like a prom dress" as my daughter always liked
to say to me! Keith also provided use of his washer/dryer, so I am fresh for
the road.
Keith's house was also the site for this afternoon's sendoff barbeque hosted
by the GAHC. There were at least 25-30 cars there and at this point I have
lost track of how many will be departing tomorrow from St. Louis for the run
to Olathe, KS. I'll find out when we get there. The hit of the day was Ron
Varley's Ace-Bristol (Poor Ron had shipped his 100 to Tahoe via truck and was
reduced to driving non-Healey iron.) Everyone drooled over his car--a rare
gem in beautiful condition.
I've got a number of photos that I will try to load to photos.com but this
will involve first reading the instructions on both my camera and that site,
so if I am successful I will provide info in tomorrow's post. In the
meantime thanks to many of you who have expressed interest in and support for
my daily notes--I'll continue as we go along.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:05:07 -0400
Subject: Two Reborn Healeys
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 21:00:44 -0700
Subject: Disk rotor thickness
Rich
BT7
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From meditionm at netscape.net
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 00:53:39 -0400
Subject: RE: Disk rotor thickness
Rich Locasso <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com> wrote:
>Anyone know the stock thickness of the disc rotor on a BT7 and the
>minimum allowable thickness before replacement is needed?
> Thanks in advance,
>
>Rich
>BT7
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 22:43:44 -0700
Subject: Soon on the road to Tahoe
Eileen and I in our AN5, John and Sandy Bumpus in their BJ8, Earl Kagna and
Ann West in their BT7 tricarb, and Ian and Alana Clarke, also with a BT7
tricarb. In Olympia we will be joined by Walt and Zoe Harrison in their AN5,
to make a nice group of 5 cars for the tour.
We will arrive in Tahoe on Sunday the 23rd, so it is to be a fairly
leisurely pace, mostly following Hwy 97 (with a few scenic detours thrown
in) through southern Washington, all of Oregon and into northern California,
where we will likely pass through the Lassen Forest, then on to Jim Briske's
home in Penn Valley where we will pause for a day before the final bit into
Stateline.
It's around a thousand miles - a trip long anticipated and one we are all
eager to begin.
For those of you who will also be there - we'll look forward to renewing old
acquaintances and making new ones. For those who can't be there - too bad,
but we'll make sure we enjoy it enough for you, too.
Safe and happy Healeying,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 02:05:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Viruses on the List
I've noticed several variations of the Klez virus
invading the list over the last week or so. Please be
very careful with this one - it is sneaky - everytime
it comes up it randomly generates unassuming titles
like "meeting notice" or "postmaster: mail returned."
This is a brand spanking new virus, so if you haven't
updated your virus protection, you should do so.
Also - the email & attachment size is usually about
125K to 128K - so if you get an email this size, be
very wary.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:10:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Disk rotor thickness
I recently turned two old rotors for the BJ8. One started at around .420
and the other .425. Both had wobble to them. Wound up with .380 on both.
I seem to recall seeing .375 somewhere as a minimum.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
> Rich
> The shop manual says min thickness for the disc is .335 in. and that not
more than .040 in. should be removed from the disc. The book does not state
an original thickness, but if I add the numbers it looks like .375 in. the
manual lumps together BN7, BT7, BJ7 & BJ8.
> Ken Mason
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:53:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Soon on the road to Tahoe
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:55:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Disk rotor thickness
All 3000's up to BJ8 Phase 2 used a rotor that was 0.375" thick to start
and the factory recommendation is that the minimum thickness, after
grinding, should be 0.335" or more. In other words no more than 0.040"
in total should be removed.
The later MkIII cars started with 0.500" rotors; the same brake as was
used on early TR6s. Although the minimum thickness does not seem to show
up in the Healey Manual most Triumph and Girling literature indicates
that the minimum thickness for these discs is 0.450" i.e. no more than
0.050" should be removed in total.
I think that you can get away with a bit more on the later rotors but...
should you have a problem and get taken to task over a brake failure I
wouldn't like to bet on your chances if it could be proven that you knew
that the rotors were machined below the recommended minimum.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Keith Pennell
Sent: 17-Jun-02 10:10 AM
To: meditionm@netscape.net; Rich Locasso; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Disk rotor thickness
Ken et al,
I recently turned two old rotors for the BJ8. One started at around
.420
and the other .425. Both had wobble to them. Wound up with .380 on
both.
I seem to recall seeing .375 somewhere as a minimum.
Hope this helps.
Keith Pennell
> Rich
> The shop manual says min thickness for the disc is .335 in. and that
not
more than .040 in. should be removed from the disc. The book does not
state
an original thickness, but if I add the numbers it looks like .375 in.
the
manual lumps together BN7, BT7, BJ7 & BJ8.
> Ken Mason
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:32:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Disk rotor thickness
We certainly ARE getting confused - or at least I am!
What is the difference between "all 3000s up to BJ8 phase 2" and "the
later MkIII" ? As far as I can see the latest 3000/BJ8 WAS the phase 2!
Can someone enlighten me?
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 08:35:16 -0700
Subject: final report on Redline trans oil
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 11:54:32 EDT
Subject: RE: Where to lean
Alex. BN7
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 12:08:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Where to lean
ZManDino@aol.com wrote:
> I think you have it backwards, you don't want to lean the carbs but increase
> the air volume for the higher altitude. Actually, you may not need to make
> any adjustment since the SU carbs are self adjusting to a point, and you are
> only going to about 6000 ft. at the summit. If you do start to feel a major
> difference try opening the air volume screw (counter clockwise) a quarter
> turn, and the fuel idle screw (clockwise) the same on both carbs.
>
> Alex. BN7
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 09:21:01 -0700
Subject: Re: final report on Redline trans oil
Were you using the Redline MTL or the MT-90? I am currently using the MTL and
also have noticed some leaking. I was going to try the MT-90 next time around as
it is heavier weight oil. Would hate to give up the quieter 1st gear and
smoother
shifting that I noticed when changing to the Redline oil.
Regards,
John Loftus
BJ7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 12:44:40 -0400
Subject: RE: Disk rotor thickness
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alan F Cross
Sent: 17-Jun-02 11:33 AM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: 'Keith Pennell'; meditionm@netscape.net; 'Rich Locasso';
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Disk rotor thickness
In message <000001c2160f$0105e800$6600a8c0@CRICKET>, Michael Salter
<msalter@precisionsportscar.com> writes
>We are getting a little confused here.
>
>All 3000's up to BJ8 Phase 2 used a rotor that was 0.375" thick to
>start and the factory recommendation is that the minimum thickness,
>after grinding, should be 0.335" or more. In other words no more than
>0.040" in total should be removed.
>
>The later MkIII cars started with 0.500" rotors; the same brake as was
>used on early TR6s. Although the minimum thickness does not seem to
>show up in the Healey Manual most Triumph and Girling literature
>indicates that the minimum thickness for these discs is 0.450" i.e. no
>more than 0.050" should be removed in total.
We certainly ARE getting confused - or at least I am!
What is the difference between "all 3000s up to BJ8 phase 2" and "the
later MkIII" ? As far as I can see the latest 3000/BJ8 WAS the phase 2!
Can someone enlighten me?
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 09:39:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Where to lean
bk
--------------------
At 08:54 AM 6/17/2002, you wrote:
>I think you have it backwards, you don't want to lean the carbs but increase
>the air volume for the higher altitude. Actually, you may not need to make
>any adjustment since the SU carbs are self adjusting to a point, and you are
>only going to about 6000 ft. at the summit. If you do start to feel a major
>difference try opening the air volume screw (counter clockwise) a quarter
>turn, and the fuel idle screw (clockwise) the same on both carbs.
>
>Alex. BN7
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 11:58:58 -0500
Subject: Re: final report on Redline trans oil
If you are in need I have plenty of Penrite Gear Oil 30 and 40(for hotter
climates) in stock. Just let me know if I can help.
God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 08:35 AM 6/17/02 -0700, you wrote:
>I switched back to non detergent 30 weight over the week end. No more leaks!
>Ken Freese
>65 BJ8
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 12:29:06 -0500
Subject: Trafficator Question BT7
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Richard Rinaldo <rico1969 at adelphia.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 13:59:41 -0400
Subject: front hub remover
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 11:05:05 -0700
Subject: Axle Leak on 3000 BT7
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:11:24 +0200
Subject: Healey in advertising
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:22:20 -0400
Subject: RE: front hub remover
It sometimes helps to lift out the tanged washer which is located behind
the nut but other than that the bearings are a sliding fit over the stub
axle.
In the odd case the inner bearing cone will stay on the stub axle and
you will wreak the seal by pulling it over the bearing, but again it
should still come off with very little trouble.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Rinaldo
Sent: 17-Jun-02 2:00 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: front hub remover
I tried to search the archives but had not luck . I wanted to remover my
front hub to replace the front bearings . I have the caliper off and the
nut off shaft . I need to remove the hub and don't have the correct tool
. Do I have to go buy a hub remover or is there some trick and cheaper
way of doing this .
Thanks in advance ,
Rick Rinaldo
63 BJ 7
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:57:03 EDT
Subject: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
This months issue is quite large. A twenty page issue with over 45 color
photos so it comes in at 1.1 MB.
If you go to the web page you will find a Yahoo Groups sign up box just for
the newsletter distribution. If you would like to receive the newsletter each
month (normally about 400K) please feel welcome to join our newsletter list.
Once per month you will receive the newsletter directly to your email
account.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:20:33 -0400
Subject: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
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From "Classic-Car-World" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 21:58:33 +0100
Subject: Le-Mans 2002
Took my 3000 MkIII through France and joined numerous MG's, Triumphs,
Porsche, Ferrari, Healeys, Lotus, Lotus 7's in all shapes and sizes, =
Morris,
Lamborghini, TVR, Aston Martin, Bentley, Corvette, Morgan etc, etc..... =
on
route. The atmosphere was absolutely electric, to see the Audis passing =
the
Porsche 911 GT3's as though they were in reverse can not be described. =
You
have to feel it to believe it!!!
All I can say is that if you ever get the opportunity to go, don't think
twice about it. Just do it!!!
The Audi's in the race where just un-beatable but it was nice to see the
Bentley coming 4th in at the end!!
Regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 705 9115
URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
Letterhead top bar small.gif]
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:14:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
I think the problem has more to do with how far the pistons come out of
the calipers when the pads are worn well down. (Remember the song about
the truckload of bananas in Scranton PA.) ;-)
As far as using machined down late discs on an early car as I recall the
fit on the hub is different and they are not interchangeable but as far
as I'm aware they are cast iron right through.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: 17-Jun-02 4:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
With brake discs, is it a matter of how much you take off in total
because of the metallurgy?... I mean you can't take a later disc down
to the specs of an earlier disc, because of what happens to the metal
in the disc when too much is taken off?...I hope this question is
clear.
Stephen BJ8
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:23:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Bluegrass Club Newsletter
I do the newsletter in MS Publisher. Most commercial printers would prefer
PageMaker, anything but Microsoft Products. Microsoft has it's own set of
fonts that can wreak havoc with commercial digital printers so I keep my
fonts simple, mostly Arial.
After the newsletter is done I put it on a CD and deliver it and the mailing
labels to a commercial print shop that does digital print. They copy the
newsletter from the CD directly to the copy machine and we get incredible
photo quality. I always do a 5 sheet, two sided newsletter (10 pages) on
20lb paper. Always in black and white. This keeps postage to 34 cents. Each
five sheet newsletter costs 60 cents to print (digitally). That includes one
staple in the top corner. So roughly $1 per member per issue, 100 copies each
month for an annual expense of $1200.
I moved from a regular copy shop ($46 expense) to the digital shop ($60
expense) because of the growth in digital cameras among our members. The
digital print shop allows us to use more photos and get realistic quality. I
did have problems finding a printer who would accept it in Microsoft
Publisher.
After I drop it off our club Treasurer picks it up and pays for it. His wife
folds, staples, adds mailing labels and mails the newsletter. That is a
tremendous help for the newsletter editor who is really tired of looking at
this newsletter by this point.
For the web version I use Adobe Acrobat, the purchased version (not just the
reader). I have to thank Carl Brown for his help on this one. The full
package, which retails for $250, contains a program called Distiller.
Distiller compresses the file and allows you to select DPI for images. You
can go as low as 74 DPI but I use 1200 because it does not add that much file
size and increases quality for those who print it out. It also converts the
file to a postscript printer format that saves space. The difference in using
the purchased version is incredible. This months newsletter, which is huge by
our standards, would have come in at 5mb versus 1.1 MB using Distiller.
When I do the newsletter in it's original form I use a program Professor
Franklin's photo effects (came with my scanner) and reduce the size of the
images to around 15k each. I also looked at all my graphics and try to keep
the size small.
I upload the color pdf version to our web site. I also send it to our Club
Yahoo Mailing List. I also have a Yahoo Mailing list just for the newsletter
for non-club members, mostly other newsletter editors.
We just made the move to promoting receiving the newsletter via email. I
would hope that 50% of our members elect to do it. If so we would save $600
per year.
I like the pdf version because you can print it out, share it with a spouse
and read it at your leisure.
The club paid for all the software and also the computer printer I use. When
we have a drive we just print out 30 copies of the directions and no one
bears the individual expense.
I also have a strict tenth of the month deadline for submissions. I got tired
of people disrupting my life because of their procrastination. I've also been
very fortunate to have volunteers who contribute each month.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:21:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Le-Mans 2002
Don't tell anyone, but the Bentley is really an Audi badged as a Bentley.
Really.
Classic-Car-World wrote:
> Hi all, I have just returned from my first Le-Mans trip and can only
> describe it as beyond belief!!
>
> Took my 3000 MkIII through France and joined numerous MG's, Triumphs,
> Porsche, Ferrari, Healeys, Lotus, Lotus 7's in all shapes and sizes, =
> Morris,
> Lamborghini, TVR, Aston Martin, Bentley, Corvette, Morgan etc, etc..... =
> on
> route. The atmosphere was absolutely electric, to see the Audis passing =
> the
> Porsche 911 GT3's as though they were in reverse can not be described. =
> You
> have to feel it to believe it!!!
>
> All I can say is that if you ever get the opportunity to go, don't think
> twice about it. Just do it!!!
>
> The Audi's in the race where just un-beatable but it was nice to see the
> Bentley coming 4th in at the end!!
>
> Regards
>
> Tom
> Tom McCay
> Classic-Car-World Ltd
> Tel: 01522 888178
> Fax: 0870 705 9115
> URL: www.classic-car-world.co.uk
> E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:34:41 -0700
Subject: Help!!! Penn meet in August
Bob Denton
BN6
Sportsmobile
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:50:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Le-Mans 2002
<< Don't tell anyone, but the Bentley is really an Audi badged as a Bentley.
Really.
>>
Doesn't look like an Audi.
Cheers
Gary
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:54:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Le-Mans 2002
Editorgary@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 6/17/02 3:36:00 PM, foxriverkid@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << Don't tell anyone, but the Bentley is really an Audi badged as a Bentley.
> Really.
> >>
>
> Doesn't look like an Audi.
> Cheers
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from a friend and they fit perfectly. any ideas would be gratefully
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>; "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:34:23 -0700
Subject: Front Fenders/Trunk Lid
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:01:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
fit on the hub is different and they are not interchangeable but as far
as I'm aware they are cast iron right through.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: 17-Jun-02 4:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
With brake discs, is it a matter of how much you take off in total
because of the metallurgy?... I mean you can't take a later disc down
to the specs of an earlier disc, because of what happens to the metal
in the disc when too much is taken off?...I hope this question is
clear.
Stephen BJ8
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From JCareyPage at cs.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:41:17 EDT
Subject: Tahoe - Car Secure Accomodations Available
My name is John Carey and I am going to Tahoe International 2002 with my
Bugeye. A friend and I have reserved a home at North Shore with 4 bedrooms
and a secure driveway for parking several roadsters. We will have two
beadrooms extra and available at $50 (or less if both are spoken for) per
night starting Sun. June 23 and ending Wed. June 26 (four nights) with
checkout Thur. morning.
Yes, North shore is the quiet side opposite all of the events, but it is a
nice drive (30 miles) around the lake (equal distance either side) and offers
residential quiet security for the cars. We will cover our cars each night
and block the long driveway with one of our tow vehicles.
We will be at events all day and don't mind being unable to bop back to the
pad at short notice. If you value the price, availability, and security this
affords, drop me a note and I can send a picture of the home and provide more
details.
John
61 Bugeye at:>
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/jbcarey/index.html
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:14:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Axle Leak on 3000 BT7
Are the scratches in the area where the axle seal
mates with the hub? If this is the case, you can pull
out the seal and then re set it (with a new one,
preferably) after you've put a little silicon sealant
or permatex around the area that's scratched. That
should do it.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> Hello list-
> Does anyone know of a rear axle "seal saver" that
> will work to remedy an oil
> leak problem form my rear axle? Might I need to
> have one custom made? The
> axle itself has some deep gouge marks in it from
> someone years back not having
> had the correct tool to properly dismantle this area
> of the car. These gouges
> are keeping me from forming a tight seal on the axle
> itself. Axle oil is
> leaking back behind the hub and down all over the
> backside of my driver's side
> wire wheel and tire. Any help is appreciated.
> Regards,
> Matt-
> 1960 BT7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:16:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey in advertising
I actually think that sand car was made by someone on
the list about 3 or 4 years ago in California. That
picture is a stock photo with an agency somewhere and
it pops up every now and then.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bruno Verstraete <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
>
http://www.credit-suisse.com/en/who_we_are/ourbrand.html
>
>
> Check out the above mentioned link.
> Credit Suisse is making an add with what definitely
> looks like a Healey.
> The add was also in the international edition of the
> latest Newsweek.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> BN1 Coupe 54
> BJ8 66
> Zurich (Switzerland)
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:37:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Axle Leak on 3000 BT7
Essentially, its a carefully machined "slip cover" for your axle end. (Use
'em on Sprite race cars all the time)
Any good bearing house or a healey specialty shop should be able to come up
with the right part number.
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>; "Healey Forum"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Axle Leak on 3000 BT7
> Matt -
>
> Are the scratches in the area where the axle seal
> mates with the hub? If this is the case, you can pull
> out the seal and then re set it (with a new one,
> preferably) after you've put a little silicon sealant
> or permatex around the area that's scratched. That
> should do it.
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- matt wilson <mwilson18@cox.net> wrote:
> > Hello list-
> > Does anyone know of a rear axle "seal saver" that
> > will work to remedy an oil
> > leak problem form my rear axle? Might I need to
> > have one custom made? The
> > axle itself has some deep gouge marks in it from
> > someone years back not having
> > had the correct tool to properly dismantle this area
> > of the car. These gouges
> > are keeping me from forming a tight seal on the axle
> > itself. Axle oil is
> > leaking back behind the hub and down all over the
> > backside of my driver's side
> > wire wheel and tire. Any help is appreciated.
> > Regards,
> > Matt-
> > 1960 BT7
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
>
> /// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or
try
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:12:16 -0700
Subject: Tahoe-Honored Guests.
Could someone please enlighten us? John Hunt, perhaps.
Thank you,
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
(Was in Snowmass, missed Breckinridge, will be in Tahoe.)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 23:08:37 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 7
Got an early start today and diverted off of US 50 in Villa Ridge, MO onto SR
100 through Washington along the south side of the Missouri River through a
number of towns settled by German immmigrants. Stopped in historic Hermann,
MO at the local fishing tackle emporium perched precariously on the river
bank--many photos of large carp, catfish and "buffalos" but the proprietor
apparently doubted our being serious prospects and excused himself, leaving
us in the store with the doors unlocked.
After crossing over to the north bank of the river we took scenic route 94
(the Lewis & Clark trail) which runs along the river's flood plain--lots of
corn in what must be very rich soil. Judging by the lack of buildings
anywhere close to the river, the Missouri must be awesome when in flood
stage, and I can only imagine the hardships of those early settlers who
travelled along and up it. William Least Heat Moon, the author of Blue
Highways, wrote a book fairly recently entitled River Horse about his travels
from the Coast to Coast via small boat, and the section on the Missouri is
awesome.
Terry Ganey is a former Healey driver who lives in Jefferson City, MO. and
through his efforts the Governor declared today to be Austin-Healey Day
across the State. So we all met at Terry's house and proceeded to the State
Capital building, parked our cars in front and went to meet with the
Governor's representative who read the Proclamation and delivered it to Bob
Brown--the local media were present to record everything for tonight's TV
news. Following a tour of the building we departed and proceeded west along
50.
Healey driver Larry Dickstein of Lone Jack, MO (pop. 540 or so) had extended
an invitation for all to drop in on his place which most everyone did, and
what a place it is, out in the rolling countryside complete with an
old-fashioned windmill. His garage was state-of-the-art and contained his (I
believe ) BJ8 and pristine white AN5, along with a Norton bike and a couple
of MG's. Larry was in the process of loading up his Harley which is being
towed to Tahoe. From there I skirted south of KCM and crossed into Kansas and
on to the motel for the night.
Peter and Ann Hunt of ATW in 80 days fame are posting their daily
observations to their website which I believe is www.easterton.com. And
Clive Randall, also from the UK who is driving the Westland Healey is doing
the same--I think his site's address is www.8000miles.com and I'm sure their
perspectives are most interesting.
Tomorrow's a long day across Kansas and I'm tired--I still haven't posted any
photos but I'll try to get some up tomorrow.
Best to all and thanks for all the positive feedback--Michael Oritt
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 23:31:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
GM
----- Original Message -----
> With brake discs, is it a matter of how much you take off in total
> because of the metallurgy?... I mean you can't take a later disc down
> to the specs of an earlier disc, because of what happens to the metal
> in the disc when too much is taken off?...I hope this question is
> clear.
> Stephen BJ8
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 23:37:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
GM
----- Original Message -----
> I think the problem has more to do with how far the pistons come out of
> the calipers when the pads are worn well down.
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From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:36:26 -0600
Subject: Michael Oritt's traveloge
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From HundredSix at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 06:52:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe-Honored Guests.
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 07:05:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey in advertising
Bill Emerson
Meet Coordinator (With Bruce Erfer)
1985 Healey West Coast Meet
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 04:51:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey in advertising
Click on the picture and you'll see that it's a Healey
at the Beach. I think it is at that '85 Healey Meet.
I think the hat and scarf were added by computer.
Those sneaky computer graphics people!!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- OldHealeys@aol.com wrote:
> I think that the photo in the advertising is made of
> snow.... A slight
> change from the warm California sand of the Healeys
> that were made on the
> beach at Monterey in 1985.
>
> Bill Emerson
> Meet Coordinator (With Bruce Erfer)
> 1985 Healey West Coast Meet
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 04:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: It's Sand
http://www.credit-suisse.com/en/news/download/pdf/inventive_en.pdf
By the way Bill, everyone knows that when you go to
the beach in Monterey, you should wear a scarf and
knit cap, particularly in summer...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- OldHealeys@aol.com wrote:
> I think that the photo in the advertising is made of
> snow.... A slight
> change from the warm California sand of the Healeys
> that were made on the
> beach at Monterey in 1985.
>
> Bill Emerson
> Meet Coordinator (With Bruce Erfer)
> 1985 Healey West Coast Meet
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:33:06 -0400
Subject: RE: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
The starting thickness for their discs is 0.075" below the safe minimum
for the later disc of almost identical design!!
There is a very good article on "Scrap Thickness" at
http://www.dba.com.au/home.htm in the section entitled "consumer
Articles".
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of GM
Sent: 17-Jun-02 11:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
Correct, the cut limit is based on a conservative point above where
warpage
or crystallization can occur for a particular design. Nowadays there's a
cut
limit and lower value scrap limit.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> With brake discs, is it a matter of how much you take off in total
> because of the metallurgy?... I mean you can't take a later disc down
> to the specs of an earlier disc, because of what happens to the metal
> in the disc when too much is taken off?...I hope this question is
> clear.
> Stephen BJ8
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From Fred Hunter <fhunter at kcnet.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 07:44:19 -0500
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
So what's the name of this pub that we're all going to meet at?
Best regards,
Fred
SPL-224B/AHS-3804
A guy
Who drives
A car wide open
Is not thinkin'
He's just hopin'
--Burma-Shave--
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 20:47:29 +0800
Subject: Locating Simon Lachlan
If you're still lurking on the list please contact me off line.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 09:11:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Locating Simon Lachlan
Let me have your email as well.
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.371 / Virus Database: 206 - Release Date: 6/13/02
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:45:00 +1000
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
I saw this thread the other night .... and thought - I've had enough of
rotors for a few days.... but now you've mentioned DBA...
I actually fitted a new set of DBA (Disk Brakes Australia) rotors (094S L &
R) to my BJ8 last weekend. They are their slotted version (for all the good
reasons
outlined on their website, and after talking to their guys about my Healey).
Anyway, the manufacturers minimum recommended thickness of a rotor is
actually stamped on the outside edge of the rotor (at least it is on the old
and new ones I have here). Interestingly, the DBA slotted BJ8 rotor is
marked as min thickness 11.7mm (.4606 in) ; and a Brako brand 'standard
solid' rotor is marked min thickness 11.4mm (.4488 in). Both are half inch
(nominal) width (12.7mm) when new. DBA says (on their website) scrap is
11.4mm
So you only get 1mm - 1.3mm wear (40 thou -50 thou) worth of use out of a
disc brake rotor - yet a BJ7 rotor is 1/8in (3.175mm) thinner than a BJ8
rotor to start with when its new!!!!! I know what I'd do if I had an earlier
car...........
DBA also do a slotted cross drilled rotor - but in my opinion - you loose
as much as you gain when you drill and slot a solid (as opposed to a
ventilated) rotor. And it just wouldn't look right. They also make a
standard solid rotor (their code 094).
However - if anyone can ascertain whether 'old' worn out BJ8 rotors can be
'recycled' for earlier 3000's - I have a few sets here that I'm willing to
part with!! Seriously - if anyone has an old early 3000 rotor lying around -
measure accurately the offset etc - and see if there is any reason why a BJ8
rotor won't fit an early model 3000.
Hope this helps
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'GM'" <altec210@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 10:33 PM
Subject: RE: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
> That presents a rather scary prospect for those operating Healeys with
> the earlier brakes.
>
> The starting thickness for their discs is 0.075" below the safe minimum
> for the later disc of almost identical design!!
>
> There is a very good article on "Scrap Thickness" at
> http://www.dba.com.au/home.htm in the section entitled "consumer
> Articles".
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of GM
> Sent: 17-Jun-02 11:32 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
>
> Correct, the cut limit is based on a conservative point above where
> warpage
> or crystallization can occur for a particular design. Nowadays there's a
> cut
> limit and lower value scrap limit.
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > With brake discs, is it a matter of how much you take off in total
> > because of the metallurgy?... I mean you can't take a later disc down
> > to the specs of an earlier disc, because of what happens to the metal
> > in the disc when too much is taken off?...I hope this question is
> > clear.
> > Stephen BJ8
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 09:50:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 7
Peter and Ann Hunt of ATW in 80 days fame are posting their daily
observations to their website which I believe is www.easterton.com. And
Clive Randall, also from the UK who is driving the Westland Healey is doing
the same--I think his site's address is www.8000miles.com and I'm sure
their perspectives are most interesting.
Tomorrow's a long day across Kansas and I'm tired--I still haven't posted
any photos but I'll try to get some up tomorrow.
Best to all and thanks for all the positive feedback--Michael Oritt
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 07:27:46 -0700
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
"The Pub Tahoe"
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:58:43 +0800
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
The later model rotors will fit an early model 3000 (mine is car # 011-
1959) but you have to change the callipers as well. These are easy to find
as they were fitted to the early Escorts as well.
Cheers
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
> Hi Mike,
>
> I saw this thread the other night .... and thought - I've had enough of
> rotors for a few days.... but now you've mentioned DBA...
>
> I actually fitted a new set of DBA (Disk Brakes Australia) rotors (094S L
&
> R) to my BJ8 last weekend. They are their slotted version (for all the
good
> reasons
> outlined on their website, and after talking to their guys about my
Healey).
>
> Anyway, the manufacturers minimum recommended thickness of a rotor is
> actually stamped on the outside edge of the rotor (at least it is on the
old
> and new ones I have here). Interestingly, the DBA slotted BJ8 rotor is
> marked as min thickness 11.7mm (.4606 in) ; and a Brako brand 'standard
> solid' rotor is marked min thickness 11.4mm (.4488 in). Both are half inch
> (nominal) width (12.7mm) when new. DBA says (on their website) scrap is
> 11.4mm
>
> So you only get 1mm - 1.3mm wear (40 thou -50 thou) worth of use out of a
> disc brake rotor - yet a BJ7 rotor is 1/8in (3.175mm) thinner than a BJ8
> rotor to start with when its new!!!!! I know what I'd do if I had an
earlier
> car...........
>
> DBA also do a slotted cross drilled rotor - but in my opinion - you loose
> as much as you gain when you drill and slot a solid (as opposed to a
> ventilated) rotor. And it just wouldn't look right. They also make a
> standard solid rotor (their code 094).
>
> However - if anyone can ascertain whether 'old' worn out BJ8 rotors can be
> 'recycled' for earlier 3000's - I have a few sets here that I'm willing to
> part with!! Seriously - if anyone has an old early 3000 rotor lying
around -
> measure accurately the offset etc - and see if there is any reason why a
BJ8
> rotor won't fit an early model 3000.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
>
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
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From Sid_Shadle at dot.ca.gov
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:30:30 -0700
Subject: Test
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:43:11 -0700
Subject: Leaky rear differential
Wondering if anyone has tried a stop leak product of some kind and how
it worked out?
Thanks in advance,
Rich
BT7
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:59:44 -0700
Subject: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
My thinking is go with the stainless steel because it was rust that did
in my originals.
Wondering if anyone has any experience with this and if the stainless
are the best bet?
Also Moss list them at about $25/each - is that a good price?
Thanks in advance,
Rich
BT7
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From a-healey <a-healey at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 10:31:57 -0600
Subject: Re: FW: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
At 08:01 PM 17/06/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi Andy,
>
>Great to hear from someone in Scranton P.A.
>
>Weeellllll.. If you live in Scranton, you know about the big hill on the
>way into Scranton with the corner at the bottom.
>I've only been there once or twice but I remember it.
>
>Jim Croche was the artist and I can't for sure what the song was called
>but it was all about a truck driver hauling 50,000lbs of bananas.
>
>To cut a long song short he didn't make the corner.
>
>I thought everyone in Scranton know that song. I would make it the
>town's anthem.
>
>Michael Salter
>www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Andy Phillips [mailto:AndyP@cylogix.com]
>Sent: 17-Jun-02 5:49 PM
>To: 'msalter@precisionsportscar.com'
>Subject: RE: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
>
>Michaeil,
>What's that song about Scranton? (I'm on the board of the Scranton
>Chamber of Commerce ... First out of towner, out of stater, out of
>countrier but I like the place!)
>Andy
>'67 BJ8
>--------------------
>Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
>Andy Phillips
>CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
>www.cylogix.com
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 12:35:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
Don't even consider chrome. Yuck. I have always used stainless on both street
racers and track racers. The last thing in the world you want inside your
calipers
is flaking chrome.
Rich Locasso wrote:
> Moss lists both chrome and stainless steel replacement pistons for the
> disc brake caliper with the note that the stainless steel pistons are
> rust free.
>
> My thinking is go with the stainless steel because it was rust that
>did
> in my originals.
>
> Wondering if anyone has any experience with this and if the stainless
> are the best bet?
>
> Also Moss list them at about $25/each - is that a good price?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich
> BT7
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 12:29:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
I've had my stainless steel pistons going for over 4 years of pretty heavy
use. I have not had any problems since I installed them.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 11:59 AM
Subject: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
> Moss lists both chrome and stainless steel replacement pistons for the
> disc brake caliper with the note that the stainless steel pistons are
> rust free.
>
> My thinking is go with the stainless steel because it was rust that did
> in my originals.
>
> Wondering if anyone has any experience with this and if the stainless
> are the best bet?
>
> Also Moss list them at about $25/each - is that a good price?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich
> BT7
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 12:42:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 11:59 AM
Subject: Caliper Pistons - chrome or stainless steel
> Moss lists both chrome and stainless steel replacement pistons for the
> disc brake caliper with the note that the stainless steel pistons are
> rust free.
>
> My thinking is go with the stainless steel because it was rust that did
> in my originals.
>
> Wondering if anyone has any experience with this and if the stainless
> are the best bet?
>
> Also Moss list them at about $25/each - is that a good price?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich
> BT7
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 13:46:15 -0400
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: "Fred Hunter" <fhunter@kcnet.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: healeys@autox.team.net and Tahoe
> > So what's the name of this pub that we're all going to meet at?
> >
>
> "The Pub Tahoe"
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 11:17:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Leaky rear differential
Thoroughly clean all surfaces, put in a new diff to axle housing gasket,
teflon thread sealant on the plug threads, and make sure the breather is not
plugged.
I wouldn't mess with any fluid additives, the above should do the job,
assuming the mating surfaces are all in good shape.
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 8:43 AM
Subject: Leaky rear differential
> My rear differential housing has become wet and I am starting to get an
> occasional drop forming on the drain plug. Have not looked at it closely
> but assume it is a seal somewhere.
>
> Wondering if anyone has tried a stop leak product of some kind and how
> it worked out?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich
> BT7
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From DENewman2 at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:58:36 EDT
Subject: OR2002
Anxiously awaiting your arrival,
Don and Cathy Newman
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 15:11:46 EDT
Subject: OR2002 Traveling from SF South Bay on Sunday
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 16:53:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Re; RE: Disk rotor thickness
The scary part is that pad manufacturers generally don't pay any attention
to what the OEM spec'd, plus their 'recipe' varies from day to day WRT the
various metals content, and why they don't perform as well overall.
The worst of all is with vented rotors. Aftermarket often reduces the number
of cooling fins, but use the same thickness, etc., specs as OEM. These often
glaze over almost immediately and it's becoming increasingly common for them
to crack. So if you replace these, take the time to count the fins.
Thanks for the link, but I couldn't get it to load.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> That presents a rather scary prospect for those operating Healeys with
> the earlier brakes.
>
> The starting thickness for their discs is 0.075" below the safe minimum
> for the later disc of almost identical design!!
>
> There is a very good article on "Scrap Thickness" at
> http://www.dba.com.au/home.htm in the section entitled "consumer
> Articles".
>
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 15:20:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey book on ebay
RARE Austin Healey book by Browning & Needham is on
EBay at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1837736326
Chapters include 1)Donald Healey, 2)the Healey Elliot
and Westland, 3)The Healey Silverstone, 4)The
Nash-Healey, 5)The Healey Duncan, Sportsmobile,
Tickford, Abbott and Sports Convertible, 6) The
Austin-Healey 100, 7)The Austin-Healey 100s and 100M,
8) The Austin-Healey 100-Six, 9) The Austin-Healey
3000, 10) The Austin-Healey Sprite, and 11)
Postscript: Healey Climax and Jensen Healey
The Appendix contains: 1) The competition career of
Donald Healey, 2) Tuning the Riley-engined Warwick
built cars, 3) Tuning the Austin Healey 100, 100-Six,
and 3000, 4) Tuning the Sprite and Midget, 5)
Technical Specifications, 6) production figures, 7)
Jensen-Healey Specification, 8) International
competition results, 9) International records held by
Austin-Healeys, and 10) the Works Rally cars
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From ZManDino at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 18:49:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 7
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From "Cynthia Nesheim" <nesheim at quiknet.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 18:45:37 -0700
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe
Your notes on the trip across the country are just wonderful. For us geography
challenge Healey owners, it has been a great history lesson. I feel so
unadventurous as I worry if our Healey will make it all the way from
Sacramento to Tahoe !!
Cyndy
BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:31:45 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 7
We shoved off around 7:30 into a threatening sky--the forecast was somewhat
iffy with some strong cells and possible hail. After a short run on I-35 we
jumped off the interstate on US 50, then connected to US 58 (The OLD US 50
and the route of the Santa Fe trail). Weather seems to happen fast out
here--rain fell out of a seemingly clear sky then stopped but as we
approached McPherson suddenly the sky became leaden and unusual lightning
bolts danced down from--and horizontally between--the clouds. Inasmuch as
our tops (hoods) were down we were not ready for the heavy deluge that seemed
to be unavoidable, but our luck held and after perhaps 25 miles of moderate
rain we slid out from under the ceiling and by the time we stopped for a
picnic lunch in Great Bend the temperature had come up at least 20 degrees
and a hot dry breeze was blowing 20-25 mph out of the south.
Everything I had read and heard about Kansas included the word "flat",
although I am told that the locals prefer to use the term "level" (it does
seem less one-dimensional.) Being a transplanted South Floridian I can
report that to my eye there was much countour , esp. in the Eastern section.
The fields were like a checkerboard--dark green corn, tan and golden wheats
and probably other grains (what is a milo, anyway?) made for a very
attractive countryside, and with the air being so clean it seemed like the
visibility was greater, particularly as we progressed west. After Great Bend
most towns were visible in the distance first by the tall concrete grain
silos and then by the trees. As one town died into the rearview another
would come up--usually spaced 8-10 miles apart.
We ran along the tracks of the ATSF into Dodge City and after being welcomed
by Melvin Dale and his wife, who live a bit further west in Garden City and
own a BN1 in restoration, we were ushered to "Boot Hill" for a photo-op.
BTW, in light of all the hospitality that we have experienced I am tempted to
call this the "Mooch Across America" tour. Healey folks have been wonderful.
I have had a few inquiries as to what problems have been experienced thusfar
on the road, and seeing as how we passed the halfway point sometime today I
think that report is appropo: Probably the most serious concern was that of
Bob McElwee--his car was experiencing starting problems even before he
departed St. Louis. A new solenoid did NOT do the trick, and he simply
diverted by Victoria British's shop somewhere in Kansas today, replaced the
starter and he is here at the hotel and in good order. This morning Allen
Feldman had to have a tire puncture repaired prior to leaving Olathe. As I
approached Dodge City I smelled the giveway scent of melting wire insulation
coming from under the dash--the key switch developed some serious resistance
when in the "on " position and although it checked out okay with a test meter
between the posts there apparently is an internal problem. A quick trip to
the Ace Hardware and I threw a SPST switch in its place and all is well now.
I have run over 1500 miles since changing the oil before departing Maryland
and have added one quart--and most of the missing oil has landed on my right
knee as a result of the defective tach drive seal. Bob Brown had a slight
leak in one of his oil cooler lines and that has been repaired. That's all
that I am aware of so far!
Tomorrow is, I am told, the "worst" day--I have visions of steer heads
alongside the road. We're taking off early so I'll say "chow for now ".
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:57:28 EDT
Subject: Carb adjustment for altitude
Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 07:53:39 -0600
Subject: RE: Smith's heater water valve question
I didn't see a lot of responses, so I'll try to help. In my
opinion, the cone-shaped aluminum washer (used to mount the adapter to the
top of the heater box) is a bit "Mickey-Mouse", so I just used a modern
external-type retaining ring of the right size. I think I may have had to
sand it just a bit thinner. You may want to clean up the grove (in the
adapter) just a bit with a small file.
The O-ring goes between the adapter and the valve, if I remember
right. It is sandwiched between the conical depressions in these pieces,
gripping and sealing the inlet tube of the heater core. It's possible that
a second O-ring might be used underneath the top of the heater box. If so,
it wouldn't form a seal, but would just help mount/stabilize the heater
core.
Hope this helps,
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 Tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:linwoodrose@hotmail.com]
List,
I am rebuilding my 60 BT7 Smiths Heater and ran into a small assembly
problem associated with the new water valve. The water valve adaptor plate
at the bottom of the water valve is held to the top of the heater box with a
washer made of a soft metal (I assume aluminum?). The washer is cone shaped
and is meant to be bent to fit and secure the adaptor. However, I am not
sure how I fasten it to the base of the adaptor. Do I just push it down? If
so with what? Do I put the small end against the adaptor and push or the
large end?
Does anyone have experience with this? Also does the O Ring fit between
the top of the water valve and the adaptor plate? Or does it go between the
adaptor plate and the heater box top as the catalog illustration shows?
Thank you very much.
Lin Rose
roselh@jmu.edu
FAX 540-434-5960
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From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 07:39:22 -0700
Subject: Ocean City-Sacramento sign
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:16:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Ocean City-Sacramento sign
Statistics prove
Near and Far
That folks who drive like crazy
Are!
Burma Shave
(From VIA Magazine, July/Aug 2002)
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Ocean City-Sacramento sign
> Some of the travelers took their picture in Ocean City under the Highway
50
> sign to Sacramento. I thought I would let you know that there is a similar
> sign in Sacramento for the distance to Ocean City. (Another photo op)
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
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From "Jeff Crisconi" <karenjef at earthnet.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:18:17 -0600
Subject: Carb adjustment for altitude
I run lean weak needles, but then again, I live at 5,000 feet and only drive
up.
Jeff Crisconi
'56 100
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From "Mike" <mikebn2 at win.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 11:35:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Carb adjustment for altitude
We do things a little differently here in Kentucky. Usually when we go up a
hill we also end up gong down the hill at some point.
Mike Schneider
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Crisconi" <karenjef@earthnet.net>
To: "Healey Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 11:18 AM
Subject: Carb adjustment for altitude
> You won't find anything higher than 91 octane out here. As you go up in
> altitude the octane rating drops. As far as adjustments are concerned, it
> depends how long you will be here. At the top of Pike's Peak you will not
be
> able to compensate, but in Colorado Springs at approx. 5,000 feet, the
stock
> needles should be able to be adjusted to lean out the mixture enough.
>
> I run lean weak needles, but then again, I live at 5,000 feet and only
drive
> up.
>
> Jeff Crisconi
> '56 100
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:11:07 -0700
Subject: Re: OR2002
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/mtnhwys.htm
or
1-800-427-7623 (1-800-GAS-ROAD)
fyi,
Jim '62 BT7 TriCarb
----- Original Message -----
From: <DENewman2@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 11:58 AM
Subject: OR2002
> A last minute note to those planning on taking HWY 395 to Lake Tahoe.
Check
> in with the California Highway Patrol concerning the fire at Walker. They
> expect to have it contained by Thursday but are also predicting 3 days of
> heavy winds. There is a scenic detour beginning at Bridgeport but that
takes
> a little advance planning.
>
> Anxiously awaiting your arrival,
> Don and Cathy Newman
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 15:11:13 -0400
Subject: Stripped shock bolt
I have a friend's BJ8 for 3 weeks that he wants me to check over. The
car has not been maintained that well over the years, so I imagine I
will find a number of things requiring maintenance.
I have started checking the car over today and I was afraid that I
would find the front shock bolts loose as I noticed a clunk coming
from the front end on braking. All the bolts needed tightening and
seem to be OK except for one which is stripped. Any easy way to fix
just one stripped bolt? Would something like a helicoil work? His
daughter is hoping to get a ride to her graduation in the Healey so I
am trying to get this fixed by the weekend. Should the car be driven
if I cannot get this bolt fixed in time?
Also, I was wondering what is being used these days to refill the
shocks. Would something like a hydraulic jack oil be suitable?
As I receive the Healey list in digest form, if you have any
suggestions please email me directly.
Thanks,
Richard
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:39:53 -0700
Subject: noise
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 13:49:11 -0700
Subject: 12th ANNUAL VENTURA, CA BRITISH CAR SHOW & REGISTRATION FORM
The 12th Annual Ventura All-British Car Show
Sunday, July 28th 2002
OVER 100 British cars will be on display at the Ventura
Harbor Village, 1542 Spinnaker Drive in Ventura from 9AM
to 3PM. The featured car will be the MINI. Other cars at
the show will include MG, Austin-Healey,Triumph, Jaguar,
Morgan, Morris, Lotus, DeLoren, Land Rover, Sunbeam and
many more. Trophies will be awarded to all classes, with
a President's Award and 'Best of Show' winner.
Space is limited - Preregistration is $25, cutoff date
is JULY 14, 2002. All late registration, and day of show
entries will be $35. Reg form at the bottom of this page.
Visit us on the web at: http://ccbcc.org
For more information contact: Don Cole (805) 482-9636 or
email: member@ccbcc.org
Directions: From Los Angeles
U.S.-101 North
Seaward Ave Exit (Left on Seaward)
Left on Harbor Blvd.
Right on Spinnaker Drive
Directions: From Santa Barbara
U.S.-101 South
Seaward Ave Exit
Left on Harbor Blvd.
Right on Spinnaker Drive
-------------------------------------------------------
Please print out and snail mail with your cheque:
ENTRY APPLICATION PRINT CLEARLY DETACH AND MAIL
PLEASE INCLUDE: $25 PER CAR
Vendors please inquire (limited space) contact: Don Cole
(805) 482-9636 or email: member@ccbcc.org
OWNER____________________________________CLUB__________
ADDRESS________________________________________________
CITY_____________________________________ZIP___________
PHONE: DAYS(____)__________________EVES(_____)_________
E-Mail_________________________________________________
VEHICLE
MAKE:____________________TYPE/MODEL____________________
YEAR___________________________________________________
MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO: CENTRAL COAST BRITISH CAR CLUB,
2576 KIMBERLY AVE. CAMARILLO, CA 93010
Please read below and Sign!
This release of liability specifically includes losses
caused by negligence, whether active or passive, the
Central Coast British Car Club or any of their agents,
members, or the City of Ventura, Ca. Entrant agrees to
indemnify, defend and hold harmless the Central Coast
British Car Club, their directors, members, agents,
and the City of Ventura from any and all liability,
losses, damages, injuries, and claims by any person
arising out of the condition, location or operation of
the entrants vehicle on or about the premises of Show
location in connection to the CCBCC British Car Show
to which the application relates.
Signed_________________________Date__________________
Tell us about your
Vehicle:_____________________________________________
_____________________________________________________
Anything we should know about? (oil
leaks,etc.?)_________________________________________
-----------------------------------------------------
Pre-order Regalia
For information please contact Andrew Graves:
CCBCC_REGALIA@sbcglobal.net
Quantity Size
Red T-Shirt with Event Logo $10
Polo Shirt with Event Logo $18
Sun Visor with Club Logo $4
Sizes M L XL XXL
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From YourName <bjate at postoffice.pacbell.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 13:07:44 +0000
Subject: Complete Body for Sale
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From eyera3 at attbi.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 21:40:56 +0000
Subject: Re: Complete Body for Sale
--
Ira Erbs
Digs-4 Solutions
For training,network,PC and
Macintosh
"Learning without thinking is
labor lost; thinking
without learning is dangerous."
- Chinese Proverb
> Complete body for a 100-6 with all rust repaired and all panels fitted to a
> Healey buck by Ellery Engle of Piru, CA. Includes front and rear shrouds (4
> seater), all 4 fenders, doors/hinges, bonnet,deck lid, dashboard and cockpit
> surrounds. Located in Southern CA. $2500.00 plus any shipping. Contact Gerry
> Gardner at 805-497-1808. (Gerry is cyber inpaired so contact him, not me)
> Jim
> Agoura,CA
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 18:37:32 -0400
Subject: OT - World Cup light relief
Units are degrees Fahrenheit.
40 degrees - Californians shiver uncontrollably.
People in Scotland sunbathe.
35 degrees - Italian cars won't start.
People in Scotland drive with the windows down.
20 degrees - Floridians wear coats, gloves, and wool hats.
People in Scotland throw on a T-shirt.
15 degrees - Californians begin to evacuate the state.
People in Scotland go swimming in the sea.
0 degrees - New York landlords turn the heat on.
People in Scotland have a last barby before it gets cold.
-10 degrees - People in Miami are extinct.
People in Scotland lick flagpoles.
-20 degrees - Californians all now live in Mexico.
People in Scotland throw on a light jacket.
-80 degrees - Polar bears begin to evacuate the Artic.
Scottish Boy Scouts postpone winter survival exercise until it gets
cold enough.
-100 degrees - Santa Claus abandons the North Pole.
People in Scotland wear a vest and pull down their ear flaps
-173 degrees - Ethyl alcohol freezes.
People in Scotland are angry 'cos they can't thaw their whiskey kegs.
-297 degrees - Microbial life starts to grind to a halt.
Scottish cows complain of farmers with cold hands.
-460 degrees - ALL atomic motion stops.
People in Scotland start saying " A bit hill billy ...eh? "
-500 degrees - Hell freezes over.
Scottish people support England in the World Cup.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Richard Rinaldo <rico1969 at adelphia.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 18:58:23 -0400
Subject: front wheel bearing nut
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 19:03:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 7
> you should definitely know flat or level
Actually, Mike, I think that space mountain has been eclipsed by some of the
"Mount Trashmore's" that are springing up all along the Florida Turnpike to
the west of development. They'll probably be them parks of some kind in the
future.
Best--Michael
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 19:17:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Stripped shock bolt
> Also, I was wondering what is being used these days to refill the
> shocks. Would something like a hydraulic jack oil be suitable?
>
Richard,
Regarding shock oil, I and many others recommend and use Harley Davidson
shock oil. Can be purchased at any HD dealer and is cheaper that from parts
houses like Moss.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erike the Red
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:29:51 -0700
Subject: I need. . . .
Contact me off list, please.
Foxriverkid@earthlink.net
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:38:30 -0400
Subject: RE: front hub remover
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Richard Rinaldo
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 2:00 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: front hub remover
I tried to search the archives but had not luck . I wanted to remover my
front hub to replace the front bearings . I have the caliper off and the
nut off shaft . I need to remove the hub and don't have the correct tool
. Do I have to go buy a hub remover or is there some trick and cheaper
way of doing this .
Thanks in advance ,
Rick Rinaldo
63 BJ 7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:34:58 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 9
I think my day counter went awry back in St. Louis--wasn't I there for days 5
& 6? Including the layover this is the 9th day on the road so reset your
clocks if I misled....
Anyway, we finally made it out of Kansas (no offense to any Jayhawks, but the
state does seem to go on forever) and I cannot say that Eastern Colorado was
very different until the last 50 or so miles when the mountains came into
view and we began to climb just a bit more noticeably.
I ran today with the three UK cars, passing innumerable "Feed Lots" where
cows stand around eating. I haven't quite figured out why it is more
economical to carry the cows to the food rather than vica versa (of course,
you couldn't then call them "Western Fed" could you!) but I'm sure I am
missing something. BTW, thanks to the several folks who filled me in on
milo, apparently a version of sorghum which we have back east. Passing
through Lamar, CO I saw a sign pointing south for "Amache--Japanese/American
Resettlement Camp", referring no doubt to one of the internment sites during
WWII. What a rough spot area--most of the isolated farms and small towns
seem to be on the north side of the road and many of the houses turn their
backs to the northwest winter winds, facing into what I am told is a
prevailing hot, dry breeze from the SW. I saw more than a few homes with
substantial earthen berms around the northern walls. Winters must be an
experience on the plains.
Our only diversion off of US 50 was near Las Animas--we got onto SR 194 and
visited "Bent's Old Fort", an early 1840's vintage fortification built by
William Bent and his brother on the Arkansas River and the Santa Fe trail,
right at the then-US/Mexico border. It was apparently the only show in town
for hundreds of miles around, and Kit Carson was a resident buffalo hunter.
The USPS runs it and we had a great interpretive tour from one of the ranger
dressed in period costume.
After the customary picnic lunch in La Junta we drove on across the high
desert--temperatures had to have been over 100 and I could not push the car
much beyond 70 mph for any period of time without the needle creeping up
toward 212. As it was, Clive Randall's Westland is heat-challenged and he
set the pace, so we spent considerable time around 55-60 despite the high
speed limits (75 mph in places), making for a long day.
At Pueblo we diverted from 50 and took I-25 to Colorado Springs. We are
poised for an assault on nearby Pike's Peak in the AM--Steve Byers is also
here and the only consideration are the fires nearby. We met Bob Gilleland
at the hotel who drove up with Stella from Texas trailering his 100 and
apparently we are having dinner with a local Healey person so I'm sure we'll
get the latest news on the fires and what they mean to our route. After the
ascent (I'm just doing it because of the reportedly- wonderful icecream at
the summit) we are supposed to rejoin 50 near Poncha Springs tomorrow morning
and then catch up to the main group tomorrow night at Grand Junction. We'll
see what we are dealt.
That's about all I have got. Thanks to the many folks who have sent words of
encouragement. As usual, I am tired after a very hot day.
Best to all--Michael
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From "Peter Conover" <pconover at attbi.com>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:29:42 -0500
Subject: Flasher
Thanks,
Peter Conover
'63 BJ7 in restoration
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From Andy Turner <andyturner at shaw.ca>
From: Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: 'Stephen Hutchings' <hutching@the-wire.com>; healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:21:15 -0700
Subject: e-bay books
For those of you interested in Healey books give the following a try
www.abebooks.com
This is a used book search engine and is where I have found most of my
Healey library, and paid a lot less than some of the prices obtained on
e-bay
No interest or partnership etc. etc.
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 20:34:48 -0700
Subject: noise
> Hi everybody It`s bin awile I found the noise It`s bad crank needs to be
cut to .020 It`s now at .010 need to no if I change out the cam bearings do
I have to line bore as the book says or could I scrape out the babat for the
fit I need.I have the motor all apart is there any tricks I need to know
that the book does not tell you.Also I need diagram of the oil system if it
is out there could some one send it to me. Thanks Steve 58 bn4
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 07:45:33 -0500
Subject: Re: e-bay books
Other wise there was a lot of interesting stuff at the Abe sight.
Thanks Andy.
Mark
> Hi all
>
> For those of you interested in Healey books give the following a try
> www.abebooks.com
>
> This is a used book search engine and is where I have found most of my
> Healey library, and paid a lot less than some of the prices obtained on
> e-bay
>
> No interest or partnership etc. etc.
>
> Andy
>
> [demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had
a name of winmail.dat]
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From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 09:52:32 EDT
Subject: The Snake River Canyon Incident
I'm taking the LONG way to Tahoe from Charlotte NC, headed out to Charleston
SC so I can make coast-to-coast out of the trip. We are also making a side
trip to Yellowstone...
Well, yesterday, coming through a highway construction zone toward Alpine
Junction, along the Snake River Canyon, I hit a big ol' rock which had fallen
from one of the dump trucks several vehicles in front of us. The SUV,
pick-up, and flatbed tractor trailor cleared the rock. I, on the other hand,
well, you can imagine... It was one lane at the place of impact and it was
either ditch in the canyon below, or kiss the "new jersey" barrier to my
right. The rock caught my oil pan right at the drain plug, bent it back and
opened a ~2" gash. I looked in my mirror expecting to see exhaust system all
over the road. Instead, all I saw was a sickening trail of oil behind. I
pulled over about 100 yards up the road. The construction crew, esp. the
superintendent aptly named "Rip", have been helpful. They've picked up the
tab for everything. In order to continue, I'm getting the pan welded this
AM. The constr. co. is picking up the cost of the temporary repairs, and
have agreed to pay for any future repairs as well,as I'll have to get a new
pan when I get home.
(The people of Alpine Junction are a great bunch and we are making many new
friends.)
We'll know by noon if the repair will be adequate for the remainder of the
trip. All part of the adventure!!!! And hope to see ya at Tahoe...
Allen Hendrix, Hendrix Wire Wheels, thanks for the service last week, the
tires/wheels are flawless.
Robert
66BJ8 on the road
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From GeneralFolder at aol.com
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 12:50:19 EDT
Subject: Re: e-bay books
If any of you folks live near a Crowne Books Outlet or have a friend on the
inside who works at Barnes & Noble, Borders or any of the major book
retailers, have them to check in the "back" for one-off, canceled orders,
unknown ISBN's & mispalced automtovie books on the Healey.
I found a copy of the Original Austin Healey at the B&N in Old Towne
Pasadena. There was a little rip in the jacket (easily repaired with a piece
of tape) otherwise it was perfect...... $12 plus tax out the door - and all I
did was "ask."
eBay has its place, I mean if you hang around the website long enough, you'll
eventually find what you're looking for - but for buying & or selling Healey
gear, I'd rather hit up the folks right here on the list.
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 11:48:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 9
The travelogue has been interesting but if Steve (Byers) in traveling with you
(I
think he is) I would have hoped for an in-depth accounting of ornithological
changes from Appalachia to the Rockies - a very interesting gradient as is the
native vegetation - feedlots well seen one seen them all! Keep up the good
work!
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Dodge City, KS. to Colorado Springs, CO.
>
> I think my day counter went awry back in St. Louis--wasn't I there for days 5
> & 6? Including the layover this is the 9th day on the road so reset your
> clocks if I misled....
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From DENewman2 at aol.com
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 15:45:52 EDT
Subject: AH-OR2002
Still waiting for your arrival,
Don and Cathy Newman
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 16:59:11 -0400
Subject: Down pipes
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From Stan_Sierpina at translink.bc.ca
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:20:41 -0700
Subject: Dash Pot fluids
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 17:46:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Down pipes
The major difference between the 2 types of down popes is the distance
apart they are at the bottom when installed.
Also originally the BJ8 style have no slits at the bottom end as the
muffler pipes fit over the downpipes whereas the earlier type fit inside
the muffler pipes and therefore have slits to permit them to be clamped
onto the muffler.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dennis Broughel
Sent: 20-Jun-02 4:59 PM
To: austin healey
Subject: Down pipes
Dear listers:
When I took possession of my Long bridge Bn-4 there were a few boxes
that went with the car. I'm at the point of my restoration where im
actually putting parts back on. My question is, is there a difference
between the early 100-6 and the BJ-8 down pipes. If there is a
difference what is it, so I can tell what pipes I have. I want to think
that I have BJ-8 down pipes because the open end of the pipe fits over
the male ends of the muffler.
Thanks in advance
Dennis Broughel Bn-4 ......45281
Bn-4 ......30836 Parts car
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From Chris Gibson <cgibson99 at rogers.com>
From: "stephen tjepkema" <stjepkem@optonline.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 17:50:02 -0400
Subject: Speed vs RPM
Here's the problem foks. At 4000 RPM in an overdrive BJ8, I get about 71
mph - checked with a GPS. The tach was recently rebuilt and so is
presumably fairly accurate. My high school math a bit rusty, but near as
I can figure from the ratios in the Drivers Handbook, I should be
getting 90-ish mph at 4000 RPM. And yes, the o/d does engage (RPM
decrease when engaged and increase when disengaged). Is my math off, or
have I got a problem? All ideas gratefully received.
Chris Gibson
BJ8
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From "i erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:51:28 -0700
Subject: Dash Pot fluids
> What's the consensus of opinion on the best fluid to put in the SUs? I've
> heard of everything from nothing, water, 3 in 1 machine oil, brake fluid,
> sewing machine oil, ATF, 20/50, 10/30, 20 wt, etc. etc. I was running
brake
> fluid but was getting a flat spot accelerating in 3rd and 4th especially
> during a recent heat wave so was thinking brake fluid was too thin so
> switched to ATF which seems to be commonly recommended. So far, haven't
> experienced the flat spot although the ambient air temperature has
> decreased. Couple of questions..would the flat spots be caused by too
thin
> a fluid in the dash pots and what is the majority view on the best fluid
to
> put in my tri-carb? Many thanks.
>
> Stan..61 BT7
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 18:06:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Speed vs RPM
At this link you can find a PDF showing the Gear ratios for two popular tire
sizes with two rear end ratios and two overdrive ratios:
http://members.aol.com/wilko/healeygears.pdf
In a message dated 6/20/02 13:52:57, cgibson99@rogers.com writes:
<< Hello Listers,
Here's the problem foks. At 4000 RPM in an overdrive BJ8, I get about 71
mph - checked with a GPS. The tach was recently rebuilt and so is
presumably fairly accurate. My high school math a bit rusty, but near as
I can figure from the ratios in the Drivers Handbook, I should be
getting 90-ish mph at 4000 RPM. And yes, the o/d does engage (RPM
decrease when engaged and increase when disengaged). Is my math off, or
have I got a problem? All ideas gratefully received.
Chris Gibson
BJ8 >>
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From John <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 19:14:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Speed vs RPM
I would say your math is better than your tachometer.
Consider that the top speed of a BJ8 is about 125mph, and the engine
redlines at 5500rpm. Divide 5500 by 125 and you get about 44rpm per mph.
Multiply that by 90 and you get 3960rpm, as close to your 4000rpm
calculation as this crude estimate should get.
Time to re-calibrate your tach!
John New
London, Ontario, Canada
'67 BJ8
Chris Gibson wrote:
>Hello Listers,
>
>Here's the problem foks. At 4000 RPM in an overdrive BJ8, I get about 71
>mph - checked with a GPS. The tach was recently rebuilt and so is
>presumably fairly accurate. My high school math a bit rusty, but near as
>I can figure from the ratios in the Drivers Handbook, I should be
>getting 90-ish mph at 4000 RPM. And yes, the o/d does engage (RPM
>decrease when engaged and increase when disengaged). Is my math off, or
>have I got a problem? All ideas gratefully received.
>
>Chris Gibson
>BJ8
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 18:21:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Dash Pot fluids
Why not try Penrite Damper Oil for SU and Stromberg Carbs?
I have 125ml for $5.75 plus S&H.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph:903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 02:20 PM 6/20/02 -0700, you wrote:
>What's the consensus of opinion on the best fluid to put in the SUs? I've
>heard of everything from nothing, water, 3 in 1 machine oil, brake fluid,
>sewing machine oil, ATF, 20/50, 10/30, 20 wt, etc. etc. I was running brake
>fluid but was getting a flat spot accelerating in 3rd and 4th especially
>during a recent heat wave so was thinking brake fluid was too thin so
>switched to ATF which seems to be commonly recommended. So far, haven't
>experienced the flat spot although the ambient air temperature has
>decreased. Couple of questions..would the flat spots be caused by too thin
>a fluid in the dash pots and what is the majority view on the best fluid to
>put in my tri-carb? Many thanks.
>
>Stan..61 BT7
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 19:58:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash Pot fluids
It's purpose is to damp out rapid piston pulsing and over reacting to rapid
throttle changes that can lean out or flood it depending on whether the oil
is too thick or too thin.
Since I tended to drive mine hard I used nothing and kept the
piston/dashpots nicely polished, the downside being a more irratic idle than
the 3/4 race cam profile would otherwise have given. Made folks wonder just
what I'd done to it and yet still be streetable. :^) On other folks cars I
just kept them cleaned and used Marvel Mystery oil.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> What's the consensus of opinion on the best fluid to put in the SUs? I've
> heard of everything from nothing, water, 3 in 1 machine oil, brake fluid,
> sewing machine oil, ATF, 20/50, 10/30, 20 wt, etc. etc. I was running
brake
> fluid but was getting a flat spot accelerating in 3rd and 4th especially
> during a recent heat wave so was thinking brake fluid was too thin so
> switched to ATF which seems to be commonly recommended. So far, haven't
> experienced the flat spot although the ambient air temperature has
> decreased. Couple of questions..would the flat spots be caused by too
thin
> a fluid in the dash pots and what is the majority view on the best fluid
to
> put in my tri-carb? Many thanks.
>
> Stan..61 BT7
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 20:11:34 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 10
The day started with a threatening sky but we all (the three UK cars, myself
and Steve Byers, also Bob Gilleland towing a 100) took off with tops down for
THE CLIMB. Got to Pike's Peak road about 8:00 and was at the summit within
the hour. In a word, "TUBULAR", and in four words "A piece of cake".
The climb is spread over 19 miles and rises about 7k feet. The first 5 miles
are paved, the balance graded with berms for the first few miles and then
NOTHING after that all the way to the summit. There were many places where a
mistake would be a disaster, but I just kept the rev's up and stayed in the
power curve, going back and forth between 2nd and first on the hairpins. At
about 12k feet I came out of the treeline and into and through brief cloud
cover--at this point the engine was working a bit hard, but the air
temperature was low and the guage never went about 170! I did not need to
adjsut either timing or mixture. This is where the road got rather
"precipitous", with nowhere to go but down if you catch a wheel. However,
the hairpins were in the main pretty easy to negotiate with wide turns and
good sightlines uphilll, and I just dove for the apexes of the turns, kept
the revs up above 2000 and powered up to the summit (altitude 14,110--I
believe the highest place to which you can drive in North America).
I passed at least two crosses alongside the road at what were clearly
dangerous spots.... BTW, while I do not feel that we Jews are "The Chosen
People" I have come to believe that we must be safer, if not better drivers:
Think about it--when is the last time that you saw a Star of David stuck into
a road shoulder? Anyway, I passed Julian Bowen and Laurence McDowall about
500 feet below the summit--Julian was jettisoning his passenger at that point
due to a lack of power and poor Laurence had to make his own way to the top
on foot. In a few minutes the Westland arrived followed in short order by
the Hunts, Steve Byers and, finally, Julian. Bob ditched the trailer at the
bottom and ascended in the pickup truck.
I had done the climb in the usual uniform--shorts and a tee-shirt and at
14,000 feet it was COLD. I quickly layered up and we all repaired to the
summit concession stand for some cocoa and the obligatory bumper sticker
("Real Men Don't Need Guardrails--I survived Pike's Peak"). After a brief
stay at the top we descended with plans to meet at the nearest gas station on
SR 24 west--I was behind the Hunts and Julian and Laurence, passd Steve on
the way down--and that was the last that I saw of anyone in the group. After
waiting about 15 minutes at the first station (the first that I saw, anyway)
I figured I must be behind some and in front of the others. This was in,
BTW, Woodland Park, not too far SW of Denver and I was not even certain that
the road was open, but some locals told me that it probably was clear and I
headed west for Buena Vista, then dropped down to rejoin US 50 at Poncha
Springs.
Coming over successive passes I was reminded of the title of John McPhee's
book Basin and Range--that's just what it was like, with long ascents over
the the corderouy followed by similar descents into the next depression.
This is all a high desert, and with the exception of some bottomland
following on along the occassional stream there wasn't too much green. The
feedlots of yesterday have given way to what most old Western movies look
like, and the cattle (and even some Bison) wander around the range with the
only fence running alongside the road.
After rejoining US 50 I shortly began the ascent up Monarch Pass. Although
it is several thousand feet lower than Pike's Peak (11,312) and more gradual
a grade this was about midday and the road and air temperature were both HOT.
Nevertheless I kept up to the speed limit and plateau'd out just before the
temperature guage reached 200. Going in and out of overdrive on both the
ascents and descents is a real treat!
I fueled up in Gunnison, CO and as I pulled out of town I began to see lots
of bicycle riders coming into town from the West. It was the "Ride the
Rockie's" trip, and there had to be over a thousand bikers strung out along
the highway for the next 30 miles. Almost all were on roadbikes, some on
mountain types, many tandems, a few recumbents (reclining), and three or four
guys (I guess parapalegics) cranking their way along using just their arms on
special, low rigs. There were rest stops spaced every ten miles, and "sag
wagons" followed along picking up those who could not stay the course for
whatever reason. No baggage was in evidence so I guess the promoters provide
transport. I also saw some other riders apparently independent of the
tourgroup , one guy with a giant igloo cooler strapped to the bike and
another fellow--I am not making this up--who had a barbeque rig made from a
30 gallon oil drum across the rear carrier. That guy must really like to
grill.
As I neared Montrose the smoke from the Durango fires clouded the sky and
provided some shelter from the Sun, but once past town the atmosphere cleared
and it was killer hot all the way into Grand Junction, with hardly anything
but the gray-brown desert. Got lost entering GJ but arrived at the Country
Inn in good order. Folks are straggling in, and as I look out the window I
see the Hunts' car, so I guess everyone in my group made it.
I think that's it for the day.
Best to all--Michael
From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 20:56:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 10
Andy
'67 BJ8 which wishes it wasn't sitting in the garage.
--------------------
Message sent via Blackberry wireless device
Andy Phillips
CyLogix tel. (609) 750 5102
www.cylogix.com
From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 21:44:43 EDT
Subject: Snake River Canyon Incident (cont'd)
I'm sitting in a log cabin in Alpine Junction Wyoming as I write this
awkwardly on a laptop so bear with me (no pun intended).
As you recalled from the previous episode, I had a too-close encounter with a
rock in the middle of the road on the Snake River Canyon Road from Jackson to
Alpine. Road construction debris, construction co. picking up tab and all
that.
Had the car on a lift in Alpine today, with pan removed, cleaned up, some
straightening and rewelded okay. It's good til next oil change anyway. To
my consternation we also found another damage location, in line with the
first but on the OD cover, right side directly under the valve push rod. the
casting was busted off at the bottom. We matched up the tpi and size and
have inserted a bolt to stop up the hole. Because the break is oblique to
the centerline of the hole, cant get a copper washer against the casting and
the thing still leaks, mainly due to hydraulic pressure in the system. The
leak is about a drop every 3 to 5 seconds. We tried epoxy, with the bolt,
lok-tite etc. but it still leaks at the same rate. No crack in the casting
that can be detected. It is clearly leaking at the threaded fastener we
inserted. Don "the Man" doing the grunt work.
I took it off the lift and road tested at speed. The od seemed to engage and
disengage normally. It continues to leak at the mentioned rate until
pressure subsides in the system. We quit at 5:30 PM. Have some JB weld Kwik
but have not tried it. I just dont see that making a difference in the leak.
My question is can I travel safely with the condition. I have an ample
supply of 30w ND oil and intend to check the level frequently. Any
help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated... Still heading toward
Tahoe....
Thanks in advance to a great bunch of people.
Robert
66BJ8 black-over-red
From John Slade <edalsj at igs.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 22:28:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Snake River Canyon Incident (cont'd)
My advice is to be very careful with the oil level at least until you
know you have the leak stopped. The overdrive is sensitive to having a
reasonable oil level, and should you get below some minimum level, you
will probably burn out the clutch band inside it, and be in for an
expensive repair. On the other hand, the damage you have incurred sounds
as if you may be looking for a new overdrive casing anyway, or a
replacement overdrive, in the event it can't be welded, in order to fix
it properly.
On the subject of a temporary fix. I highly recommend a glue type
sealant called "Seal-All", which has been around for years. This comes
in a yellow squeeze tube, a couple of sizes, and is manufactured by a
company called "Eclectic Products Inc, Pineville, LA 71361". The label
claims it is good in the presence of both gasoline and oil. I can vouch
for its ability to seal gasoline leaks...while the leak was in progress.
I used to rally extensively, and on more than one occasion I fixed
leaks on the bottom of the gas tank on route. Squeezed some of the clear
glue like liquid out and smeared it over the leak...I remember on a
larger leak that I held the glue against the crack with my finger for a
short time, and it (the glue) set up and stayed there!
Best of luck, and keep the flag flying.
John Slade
From Alex Hope <ahope at jaques.com.au>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 14:45:06 +1000
Subject: Powder coating of wheels
Brief research into powder coating techniques reveals that the maximum
process temperatures seems to range from 50 degrees celcius to 200+ degrees
celcius. Has anyone on the list had first hand experience of powder coating
steel wheels (not wire wheels) ? Did it buckle the wheels ? How did the
finish survive having tires fitted ?
Any advice appreciated.
Alex Hope
Australia
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 18:53:47 +1000
Subject: Update to healey site
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 05:49:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 10
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <BGAHC@aol.com>; <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>;
<BlkBT7@aol.com>; "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>; "Julian Bowen"
<sales@julian-bowen.co.uk>; <tfelts@prodigy.net>; "Bob McElwee"
<bobmac@i1.net>; <JLore26@aol.com>; <WIRKENEL@aol.com>; <Secyahca@aol.com>;
<Awgertoo@aol.com>; <LarryRPH@aol.com>; <RLoosigian@aol.com>;
<MBran89793@aol.com>; <jeanmc@i1.net>; <jc9821@msn.com>; <rlanger@flex.net>;
<Dotdav@swbell.net>; <baysail2@yahoo.com>; <evorgslapg@msn.com>;
<ggilomen@hotmail.com>; <peter@hunt.sol.co.uk>; <exprexbob@email.msn.com>;
<Tganey@post-dispatch.com>; <cantrall@wrcresearch.com>;
<Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>; <Orbittor@aol.com>; <Merbear88@aol.com>;
<soritt@earthlink.com>; <nsr@adorno.com>; <jelesq@bellsouth.net>;
<Jan_S_Kukla@fpl.com>; <BogiStogi@aol.com>; <PVAurochs@cs.com>;
<TONEONPAX@aol.com>; <BLUEHARB@aol.com>; <philarkr@highwaay.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 8:11 PM
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 10
> Colorado Springs, CO to Grand Junction, CO via Pike's Peak.
>
> The day started with a threatening sky but we all (the three UK cars,
myself
> and Steve Byers, also Bob Gilleland towing a 100) took off with tops down
for
> THE CLIMB. Got to Pike's Peak road about 8:00 and was at the summit
within
> the hour. In a word, "TUBULAR", and in four words "A piece of cake".
>
> The climb is spread over 19 miles and rises about 7k feet. The first 5
miles
> are paved, the balance graded with berms for the first few miles and then
> NOTHING after that all the way to the summit. There were many places
where a
> mistake would be a disaster, but I just kept the rev's up and stayed in
the
> power curve, going back and forth between 2nd and first on the hairpins.
At
> about 12k feet I came out of the treeline and into and through brief cloud
> cover--at this point the engine was working a bit hard, but the air
> temperature was low and the guage never went about 170! I did not need to
> adjsut either timing or mixture. This is where the road got rather
> "precipitous", with nowhere to go but down if you catch a wheel. However,
> the hairpins were in the main pretty easy to negotiate with wide turns and
> good sightlines uphilll, and I just dove for the apexes of the turns, kept
> the revs up above 2000 and powered up to the summit (altitude 14,110--I
> believe the highest place to which you can drive in North America).
>
> I passed at least two crosses alongside the road at what were clearly
> dangerous spots.... BTW, while I do not feel that we Jews are "The Chosen
> People" I have come to believe that we must be safer, if not better
drivers:
> Think about it--when is the last time that you saw a Star of David stuck
into
> a road shoulder? Anyway, I passed Julian Bowen and Laurence McDowall
about
> 500 feet below the summit--Julian was jettisoning his passenger at that
point
> due to a lack of power and poor Laurence had to make his own way to the
top
> on foot. In a few minutes the Westland arrived followed in short order by
> the Hunts, Steve Byers and, finally, Julian. Bob ditched the trailer at
the
> bottom and ascended in the pickup truck.
>
> I had done the climb in the usual uniform--shorts and a tee-shirt and at
> 14,000 feet it was COLD. I quickly layered up and we all repaired to the
> summit concession stand for some cocoa and the obligatory bumper sticker
> ("Real Men Don't Need Guardrails--I survived Pike's Peak"). After a brief
> stay at the top we descended with plans to meet at the nearest gas station
on
> SR 24 west--I was behind the Hunts and Julian and Laurence, passd Steve on
> the way down--and that was the last that I saw of anyone in the group.
After
> waiting about 15 minutes at the first station (the first that I saw,
anyway)
> I figured I must be behind some and in front of the others. This was in,
> BTW, Woodland Park, not too far SW of Denver and I was not even certain
that
> the road was open, but some locals told me that it probably was clear and
I
> headed west for Buena Vista, then dropped down to rejoin US 50 at Poncha
> Springs.
>
> Coming over successive passes I was reminded of the title of John McPhee's
> book Basin and Range--that's just what it was like, with long ascents over
> the the corderouy followed by similar descents into the next depression.
> This is all a high desert, and with the exception of some bottomland
> following on along the occassional stream there wasn't too much green. The
> feedlots of yesterday have given way to what most old Western movies look
> like, and the cattle (and even some Bison) wander around the range with
the
> only fence running alongside the road.
>
> After rejoining US 50 I shortly began the ascent up Monarch Pass.
Although
> it is several thousand feet lower than Pike's Peak (11,312) and more
gradual
> a grade this was about midday and the road and air temperature were both
HOT.
> Nevertheless I kept up to the speed limit and plateau'd out just before
the
> temperature guage reached 200. Going in and out of overdrive on both the
> ascents and descents is a real treat!
>
> I fueled up in Gunnison, CO and as I pulled out of town I began to see
lots
> of bicycle riders coming into town from the West. It was the "Ride the
> Rockie's" trip, and there had to be over a thousand bikers strung out
along
> the highway for the next 30 miles. Almost all were on roadbikes, some on
> mountain types, many tandems, a few recumbents (reclining), and three or
four
> guys (I guess parapalegics) cranking their way along using just their arms
on
> special, low rigs. There were rest stops spaced every ten miles, and "sag
> wagons" followed along picking up those who could not stay the course for
> whatever reason. No baggage was in evidence so I guess the promoters
provide
> transport. I also saw some other riders apparently independent of the
> tourgroup , one guy with a giant igloo cooler strapped to the bike and
> another fellow--I am not making this up--who had a barbeque rig made from
a
> 30 gallon oil drum across the rear carrier. That guy must really like to
> grill.
>
> As I neared Montrose the smoke from the Durango fires clouded the sky and
> provided some shelter from the Sun, but once past town the atmosphere
cleared
> and it was killer hot all the way into Grand Junction, with hardly
anything
> but the gray-brown desert. Got lost entering GJ but arrived at the
Country
> Inn in good order. Folks are straggling in, and as I look out the window
I
> see the Hunts' car, so I guess everyone in my group made it.
>
> I think that's it for the day.
> Best to all--Michael
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 09:23:32 -0400
Subject: Hub bolt threads
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 07:53:41 -0600
Subject: RE: Powder coating of wheels
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 Tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex Hope [mailto:ahope@jaques.com.au]
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 10:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Powder coating of wheels
Hello Listers,
Brief research into powder coating techniques reveals that the maximum
process temperatures seems to range from 50 degrees celcius to 200+ degrees
celcius. Has anyone on the list had first hand experience of powder coating
steel wheels (not wire wheels) ? Did it buckle the wheels ? How did the
finish survive having tires fitted ?
Any advice appreciated.
Alex Hope
Australia
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:04:24 -0600
Subject: RE: Dash Pot fluids
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 Tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca
[mailto:Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca]
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 3:21 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dash Pot fluids
What's the consensus of opinion on the best fluid to put in the SUs? I've
heard of everything from nothing, water, 3 in 1 machine oil, brake fluid,
sewing machine oil, ATF, 20/50, 10/30, 20 wt, etc. etc. I was running brake
fluid but was getting a flat spot accelerating in 3rd and 4th especially
during a recent heat wave so was thinking brake fluid was too thin so
switched to ATF which seems to be commonly recommended. So far, haven't
experienced the flat spot although the ambient air temperature has
decreased. Couple of questions..would the flat spots be caused by too thin
a fluid in the dash pots and what is the majority view on the best fluid to
put in my tri-carb? Many thanks.
Stan..61 BT7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 11:00:29 -0400
Subject: Healey on TV-Raleigh, NC
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
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From Chris Gibson <cgibson99 at rogers.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 11:48:32 -0400
Subject: RPM vs Speed.
This list is without a doubt the most useful accessory ever developed
for the Healey. Thanks again to all those who responded - the consensus
being that I should start by hustling my tach into the local shop and
have it re-calibrated.
On a related note ... sorta. What is the overall impression of the 3.5
gear sets that were produced recently by one of the listers? I presume
that those who obtained them have now installed them on their vehicles
and can comment on the entire experience - installation, operation,
would you do it again, that sort of thing. I fished through the
archives, but I came up empty on a road and track type report on them,
so a thousand apologies if this issue has been beaten to death in the
list previously.
Cheers,
Chris Gibson
BJ8
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From Michael Giroux <MGIROUX at SGL.COM>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 12:57:18 -0400
Subject: seal-all
I have used seal-all on a rusty oil pan ( not a Healey) and it worked
well, but as I remember the surface had to be cleaned first.
Michael Giroux
62 BT7, 71 TR6, 81 Malibu(daily driver)
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 13:24:51 -0400
Subject: Dash Pot Oil -The Final Word
Herman
>Reply-To: "General Enquiries" <info@burlen.co.uk>
>From: "General Enquiries" <c_services@btconnect.com>
>To: "Herman" <herman@capitalhealeys.org>
>Subject: Re: 'Email from Web Site'
>Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 16:43:08 +0100
>X-Priority: 3
>X-Rcpt-To: <herman@capitalhealeys.org>
>X-DPOP: DPOP Version 2.4a
>Status: U
>
> The sole Manufacturer and Distributor of Genuine, New SU
>Carburetters and Fuel Pumps. Manufacturer and Distributor of genuine
>Zenith & Stromberg carburetters and Components.
>
>Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 3SA 00 44
>(0) 1722 412500 fax 00 44 (0) 1722 334221
><http://www.burlen.co.uk/>http://www.burlen.co.uk
><mailto:info@burlen.co.uk?subject='Reply to Online Order
>Message'>info@burlen.co.uk
>
>We accept payment in Sterling by...
>Visa, Access, Switch, Cheque, Cash
>Hours of business...
>08:45 - 17:15 Mondays - Thursdays
>08:45 - 16:30 Fridays
>
>BS EN ISO 9002:1994
>RS 34269
>
>All prices quoted include VAT unless stated otherwise.
>Dear Mr. Farrer,
>
>The correct grade oil for the dampers in SU carbs is SAE20 which we
>supply in 125ml plastic bottles @ #3.30 each. I have passed your
>request to be added to the links page to the relevant person here.
>
>Thankyou,
>
>Ray Choules
>Customer Services.
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://www.capitalhealeys.org
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From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 12:55:23 -0600
Subject: Engine won't start
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 13:23:45 -0700
Subject: Sealing Rear Axles
I managed to tear the rear axle paper gasket in a couple of places getting
it on over the 5 studs. This is the one between the end of the half-shaft
and the bearing enclosure.
My question: is Hylomar on both sides of the new torn paper gasket going to
seal this or do I need to use more of a Permatex-type RTV sealant? Can I
lose the paper gasket entirely? There's quite a lot of centrifugal force
here, so I'm wondering if Hylomar's gradually gonna get flung out of there.
Thanks in advance for any experience-based guidance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "Don Hambrick" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 15:55:13 -0500
Subject: SQUEALING BRAKES
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 14:26:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: SQUEALING BRAKES
Your brakes are squealing because you don't have the
anti-squeak shims. These shims fit between the front
caliper piston and the disk brake pad. It's pretty
common for them to be missing because so many POs and
dodgy brake mechanics threw them away when replacing
pads. You can buy these shims from any decent austin
healey supplier.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Don Hambrick <donham1@cox.net> wrote:
> Hello Listers, Need a remedy to squealing front
> brakes. Please advise.
> Don
> 62BJ7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 15:19:38 -0700
Subject: Re: SQUEALING BRAKES
----------------------
At 01:55 PM 6/21/2002, you wrote:
>Hello Listers, Need a remedy to squealing front brakes. Please advise.
>Don
>62BJ7
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 18:26:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe 2002
YES we are planning on a video of the event that should be available about
6-8 weeks after the meet.
Contact John Trifari to order your copy at john4@attbi.com
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main
Page</A>
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 18:29:02 EDT
Subject: Re: SQUEALING BRAKES
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:14:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Sealing Rear Axles
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
> Hello poor-devil-listers-like-me-who-aren't-going-to-Tahoe,
>
> I managed to tear the rear axle paper gasket in a couple of places getting
> it on over the 5 studs. This is the one between the end of the half-shaft
> and the bearing enclosure.
>
> My question: is Hylomar on both sides of the new torn paper gasket going to
> seal this or do I need to use more of a Permatex-type RTV sealant? Can I
> lose the paper gasket entirely? There's quite a lot of centrifugal force
> here, so I'm wondering if Hylomar's gradually gonna get flung out of there.
>
> Thanks in advance for any experience-based guidance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:23:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Sealing Rear Axles
No leaks yet.
Jim
BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>; "Mr. Finespanner"
<MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 4:23 PM
Subject: Sealing Rear Axles
> Hello poor-devil-listers-like-me-who-aren't-going-to-Tahoe,
>
> I managed to tear the rear axle paper gasket in a couple of places getting
> it on over the 5 studs. This is the one between the end of the half-shaft
> and the bearing enclosure.
>
> My question: is Hylomar on both sides of the new torn paper gasket going
to
> seal this or do I need to use more of a Permatex-type RTV sealant? Can I
> lose the paper gasket entirely? There's quite a lot of centrifugal force
> here, so I'm wondering if Hylomar's gradually gonna get flung out of
there.
>
> Thanks in advance for any experience-based guidance.
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 17:34:19 -0600
Subject: BN2 turn signal cancelling
I have a problem with the turn signal cancelling device on my BN2. The
mechanism is out of the car. It seems to switch & cancel ok when I set
the turn lever & then push the spring loaded "things" cancellation pins?
with my finger.
The problem is that the cancelling pawl?, bump?, lever?, cam?, which is
attached to & rotates with the steering wheel is about 3/8 inch too far
away, "outboard" to contact the cancelling pins. This lever may not even
be the correct part. It, the lever is L shaped, attaches under the
steering wheel nut & has a two prong end which maybe could contact the
cancelling pins if it was radically bent up (inboard) (about 3/8 inch)
to contact the cancelling pins.
Also the outer diameter of the stator tube base which the bakelite
switch mechanism is mounted on has an outer diameter which causes it to
be further outboard than the cancelling pins so that the cancelling
lever would have to be bent into a complex shape to miss the base &
still contact the cancelling pins.
The cancelling has never worked & it is possible that a previous owner
has installed the wrong parts or left something out. I have no idea how
the correct part relationship is supposed to look. Sorry this message is
so scrambled, I don't know exactly how to describe the parts.
Thanks for any ideas that you may have,
Dave Russell
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 16:53:45 -0700
Subject: Re: SQUEALING BRAKES
> From: "Don Hambrick" <donham1@cox.net>
> Reply-To: "Don Hambrick" <donham1@cox.net>
> Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 15:55:13 -0500
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: SQUEALING BRAKES
>
> Hello Listers, Need a remedy to squealing front brakes. Please advise.
> Don
> 62BJ7
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 20:29:38 -0500
Subject: Re: SQUEALING BRAKES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hambrick" <donham1@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2002 3:55 PM
Subject: SQUEALING BRAKES
> Hello Listers, Need a remedy to squealing front brakes. Please advise.
> Don
> 62BJ7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 21:33:55 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 11
Two items of housekeeping--
1) The actual count on the "Bike the Rockies" group was something upwards of
2500 riders!
2) It's time that I put in a plug for Mike Lempert's 3.54 differential:
Today I was driving at about 70-75 mph and turning just under 3000 rpm's.
The set is a delight for highway cruising and if Mike offers another run I
would recommend it to anyone who does any distance driving. Figuring
approximately 2500 engine revolutions per mile (2500 rpm's=60 mph=one mile
per minute) times 3500 miles gives me 8,750,000 total revolutions, so Mike
has saved me the better part of ONE MILLION engine revolutions on the way to
Tahoe alone. 'Nuff sed....!
We decided on a new strategy for desert driving and departed GJ at 5:00 AM.
We drove across the Uncompangre Plateau and passed through Crescent Springs
as light came up behind us, then on through Green River, an oasis in the
desert and just past there diverted onto SR 6 heading northwest for Provo.
At Helper, UT we stopped for fuel and, looking for some breakfast were sent
to the "Helper Emporium", just about as typical an American restaurant as you
could find. Thus far all breakfasts have been the free "continentals" that
have come with the rooms and Clive and Laurence had been waiting to say
"Sunnyside Up". They got what they ordered!
Helper, BTW got its name because it was a stop on the Rio Grande RR line
where the eastbound trains would pick up "helper" Mountain engines for the
push across the Rockies--undoubtedly there was a similar depot on the Eastern
slope--but with the advent of the diesel locomotive, Helper lost its purpose
and it is just hanging on.
This is coal country and, as we drove out of Helper, in the places where the
mountains had been cut for the road you could see black strata--coal
outcroppings in the sandstone. Frankly, I'm at a loss to describe the
experience of driving out here: The air is very clear and the horizons are
often very distant--it's almost like watching an Imax movie.
The closer we got to Provo the scenery began to change, the barren landscape
gave way to greenery and Pines and Aspens dotted the hills. After passing
through the town which straggles along the shore of Utah Lake we picked up SR
73 and ran west to join into SR 36 and so into Tooele. Just past Provo I saw
a billboard saying "Plural Marriage--Our Pioneer Heritage" and was referred
to www.polygamy.com (I haven't gone there yet). A WWII German Tiger tank sat
alongside the road painted in desert camoflage. Worms are $1.00 per dozen
and dust devils swirled their way across the plain near Silver City.
Just short of Toelle we came upon the "Deseret Chemical Depot"--set quite far
back from the road and looking very institutional. A flagwoman told me that
"They burn something over there, don't know what" and mentioned some
monitoring sites. After checking into the Hotel and talking with some folks
who pulled up in a US Govt. van I learned that this is where they burn nerve
gas, and the folks to whom I spoke were a team of "observers"--A Finn, two
Russians and another guy who didn't say too much. They have been here for
six weeks and were being replaced tomorrow by another team--they seemed
rather pleased to be leaving....
Bob Wirken's 100 is experiencing some brake problems and as I write
adjustments are being made. Not too much else to report, except that I went
to a movie this afternoon--saw "Minority Report". Tomorrow it's across the
Great Salt Lake Desert (that sounds inviting) and on through the Bonneville
Salt Flats area into Nevada, with a stop at Wendover to observe Mark Makaris
(I think I have that correct) who is responsible for keeping this list on the
air and is running his Healey at a vintage race.
Two more days to Tahoe!
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 18:39:32 -0700
Subject: Re: RPM vs Speed.
I just put 3,500 miles on my BJ8 in eight days with the Lempert
(3.55) rearend. Overall, I feel it makes the car more enjoyable to
drive First gear is more usable and third is now a better "around town"
gear (don't have to switch-on overdrive as much). The reduction in noise,
vibration and engine wear is a big plus. Loss of torque is generally not
noticable, but the clutch is a little "grabbier" during shifting. My navigator
thought there was a little more rearend noise, but it was slight and we only
noticed it when we had to put the hood up in a downpour. It's quite
possible the rearend noise is more noticable because the overall engine
and drivetrain noise is reduced.
My father and I installed the rearend. We were able to grind the spacer
to achieve the required pinion "checking" distance, and we got suitable
backlash by swapping the the spacers for the differential bearings (YMMV).
If I recall, we set pinion preload by removing the thinnest of the pinion
spacing shims. Took us most of the day, with a simple slide caliper and
a dial micrometer with magnetic base. The pinion preload--which is
required to be 15-25 inch-pounds--was set using my dad's experience
(he used to be an auto shop teacher and a factory rep for Ford).
You can calibrate your tach yourself (I just did it on mine). Some listers
have been able to do it without drilling, but I drilled a small (1/8", if I
recall) hole over the calibrating potentiometer ("pot") and used a jeweler's
screwdriver to pace the tach with a dwell-tach (Sears). If you pop the
light socket you can see the pot, but I couldn't reach it so I drilled the
hole and covered it with electrical tape when I was done. No regrets.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Thanks Folks,
>
> This list is without a doubt the most useful accessory ever developed
> for the Healey. Thanks again to all those who responded - the consensus
> being that I should start by hustling my tach into the local shop and
> have it re-calibrated.
>
> On a related note ... sorta. What is the overall impression of the 3.5
> gear sets that were produced recently by one of the listers? I presume
> that those who obtained them have now installed them on their vehicles
> and can comment on the entire experience - installation, operation,
> would you do it again, that sort of thing. I fished through the
> archives, but I came up empty on a road and track type report on them,
> so a thousand apologies if this issue has been beaten to death in the
> list previously.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chris Gibson
> BJ8
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 19:00:22 -0700
Subject: Re: RPM vs Speed.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:03:59 EDT
Subject: Generator / Dynamo bearings
Any suggestions? Is it better to rebuild or replace generators? How long
can a generator last with a minor whine? Any help would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks in advance for your expertise.
Cheers, Pete Sturtevant
******************************************************************************
********************
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 1966 Mustang GT
1964 Jaguar MK2 3.4 1966 Mustang Convertible
1959 AH Frogeye Sprite (Cindy's)
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
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From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:50:42 EDT
Subject: Snake River Canyon Incident update
Met up with Dan and his family from Wisconsin on the way to Tahoe... First
big healey I've see on the way. Saw a bug on a trailer in west Nebraska.
(Man, Nebraska was much bigger than it looks on the map!)
Washed the car tonite and she seemed to smile at me.
Thanks for the suggestions and the support. I really appreciate it.
Robert and Chris and the BJ8
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From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at btopenworld.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 09:43:40 +0100
Subject: Spin-on filter info requested.
The supplier made a mess of the price and the order. (I also
ordered a pair of headlight stoneguards and they only sent one
unit, in the presumption perhaps that I was driving a Rover
"Cyclops").
My car is a 3000, MkII BT7.
I finally have the adaptor on the car. However, I am very uneasy
as to whether it is the right one or not......there was much
discussion on the phone as to it being the right unit in the
wrong packaging or vice verca. And there were no instructions at
all.
(And the filter, admittedly very cheap, was tiny and had no check
valve.)
I wonder if anyone can help me? I know little about the internal
workings of any Healeys but my own.
I suppose the 100\4s had cartridge filters like my 3000?
I deducee these to be similar, but not identical?
The rod that passes through the filter cartridge housing on my
3000 has a fine thread. Does the 100\4 have a coarser, shorter
thread.?
My guess is that I've been sent the wrong kit, or better yet, a
mixture. The bag, into which the bits had been thrown, was not
sealed.
Can anyone describe their 3000 or 100\4 kits to me? It would help
me determine what I've go, or should have.
I appreciate that there is more than one manufacturer out there
and there will be variations. I suppose it's not use being coy
about the supplier.....it's SC Parts.
But, I must say that there service in the past has always been
first class and that, apart from this one appalling "picking"
error, they continue to be helpful. It's just that it's difficult
to sort these things out over the phone?
Any help, tips etc would be appreciated.
Simon Lachlan
Comfort House
Bradninch
Devon EX5 4NN
UK
01392-882248
March1962 MkII
HBT7 18111 (29E/RU/H4590)
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 09:52:47 -0400
Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
First some history.
The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new brake
lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and master
cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been fault-free
since. Until now.
The car has been off the road for two years as I stripped off the old
paint and re-painted it and fixed a problem with a rear hub extension.
When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up under
moderate pressure. Like going 30 mph and slowing down to pull into a gas
station 200 feet ahead. Sqealing tire, smoke and a violent pull to the
left. The other four brakes seem to be functioning normally.
Some additional details:
The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse although I
didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
When last driven there was no sign of this problem.
I first tried re-adjusting the shoes, including the steady posts. They
were in adjustment, I could lock them up and back them off fine. A road
test showed no change.
I removed the drums, shoes and springs to look for obvious damage. None.
I checked all the points as listed in the shop manual. No oil or
anything on the linings, no brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinder pistons
seem to be free. They can rotate in their bores and pushing one in about
1/4" causes the other to move out the same amount and vice-versa.
I cleaned everything up, lubed the proper points with Girling white brake
grease, reassembled, adjusted the shoes a little looser that I usually do
and road tested. No change.
The only thing left is the wheel cylinders I guess. Any opinions on
which one or both? Any other ideas for something I missed? The key is
that this seems to have deveolped by itself over the past two years while
the car was in the garage, not driven.
Thanks for your help.
Bill Schmidt
________________________________________________________________
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 00:12:51 +1000
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
My guess??
The right front wheel cylinders are the ones locked up solid. ie they don't
come on - the left front ones do - and the left front locks up, car pulls
left etc etc etc
I think you are looking inside the wrong drum....
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 11:52 PM
Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
> I need some advice on the above problem.
>
> First some history.
>
> The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
> thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new brake
> lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and master
> cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
> silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been fault-free
> since. Until now.
>
> The car has been off the road for two years as I stripped off the old
> paint and re-painted it and fixed a problem with a rear hub extension.
> When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up under
> moderate pressure. Like going 30 mph and slowing down to pull into a gas
> station 200 feet ahead. Sqealing tire, smoke and a violent pull to the
> left. The other four brakes seem to be functioning normally.
>
> Some additional details:
>
> The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse although I
> didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
> When last driven there was no sign of this problem.
> I first tried re-adjusting the shoes, including the steady posts. They
> were in adjustment, I could lock them up and back them off fine. A road
> test showed no change.
> I removed the drums, shoes and springs to look for obvious damage. None.
> I checked all the points as listed in the shop manual. No oil or
> anything on the linings, no brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinder pistons
> seem to be free. They can rotate in their bores and pushing one in about
> 1/4" causes the other to move out the same amount and vice-versa.
> I cleaned everything up, lubed the proper points with Girling white brake
> grease, reassembled, adjusted the shoes a little looser that I usually do
> and road tested. No change.
> The only thing left is the wheel cylinders I guess. Any opinions on
> which one or both? Any other ideas for something I missed? The key is
> that this seems to have deveolped by itself over the past two years while
> the car was in the garage, not driven.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bill Schmidt
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 09:38:26 -0500
Subject: Clutch Noise
Don
BN7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 12:12:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Clutch Noise
Your noise is probably bad news.
I very good gearbox is almost silent when rotating.
The most likely cause of your noise is damaged laygear bearings. The
laygear does not rotate while the clutch is down but does rotate when
the clutch is up, even when the gearbox is in neutral.
If you run the car too long with bad laygear bearings the bearing
surface on the inside of the laygear will be damaged and as well as
having to replace the layshaft and needle roller bearings you will need
to replace the laygear.
To inspect the layshaft for damage you have to remove the gearbox, take
off the bellhousing, stand the gearbox up on end overdrive down, and
extract the lay shaft. If you are careful not to move the gearbox while
the shaft is out you can then carefully slide it back into position in
the unlikely event that it is undamaged.
A sure sign that the laygear bearings and layshaft are bad is steel
filings on the overdrive drain plug magnets.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Don Yarber
Sent: 22-Jun-02 10:38 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Clutch Noise
My BN7 started making a noise that I can't understand. When the clutch
pedal is in the noise stops but with the clutch pedal out there is a
"rubbing" or "hissing" sound coming from the area of the clutch. Is
this normal? I had the tranny cover off looking for transmission leak
when I noticed this. Is it possible that the noise is always there and
I just haven't heard it before? I'm puzzled.
Don
BN7
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 12:28:46 -0400
Subject: RE: Engine won't start
I'm having difficulty following your wiring description but I think it
is wrong.
Here is what you should have, presuming that you have all the HT wires
in place.
Heavy cable ftom battery +ve to engine back plate.
Heavy cable from battery -ve to one starter solenoid big terminal.(Call
this Sol 1)
Heavy cable from other solenoid big terminal to starter big terminal.
Light wire from Sol 1 to coil -ve.
Light wire from coil +ve to distributor side terminal.
Take a jumper wire from Sol 1 and touch it on the small terminal on the
solenoid and the engine should crank over and start.
Some things to be very careful of.
1. When the engine starts it will accelerate to enormous RPM with very
little throttle opening so make sure that you know which wire to
disconnect to shut off the ignition.
2. With no exhaust system you will not be able to hear bad mechanical
noises over the exhaust noise so it is very easy to think the engine is
ok when in fact it is rattling itself to death.
3. Make sure that the engine is VERY WELL supported. When you crack open
the throttle the torque reaction will roll it over if it is not held
down.
4. Make sure that you have established oil pressure with the starter
before you try to start the engine.
5. If you have no coolant in the engine don't run it for more than a few
seconds.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bruce Starke
Sent: 21-Jun-02 2:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Engine won't start
I have been attempting to start my recently rebuilt tricarb engine,
without
success, on the bench. I have it mounted on a wooden cradle in my
garage.
Ihave not been able to get any spark at the plugs and it does not show
on the
inductive pickup of my timing light at any of the 6 plugs. I have new
plugs,
condenser, points and coil. I have tried 3 different new coils. I have
swopped
the whole distributor unit, including cap, wires etc from my running BJ7
without success. The fault must lie with the wiring to the coil and
distributor!
I have it wired as follows:
thick ground wire from +battery to ground on the engine
thick wire from -battery to starter (with a switch on/off)
thin wire from +coil to +battery and LT lead distributor
thin wire from battery to -coil
Obviously I am doing something wrong!!
HELP
Thanks
Bruce Starke
Golden BC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 12:42:44 -0400
Subject: RE: BN2 turn signal cancelling
Your canceling mechanism does not work because you are missing a
critical component.
You should have a large die cast canceling ring like the one in the
photo attached that you can see but all the listers can't ;-).
You will notice that it has a slot in it to accommodate the lever that
you are talking about and a bump on the inside that pushes the pawls up
as it passes when you turn the steering wheel.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: 21-Jun-02 7:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN2 turn signal cancelling
Hello to the list,
I have a problem with the turn signal cancelling device on my BN2. The
mechanism is out of the car. It seems to switch & cancel ok when I set
the turn lever & then push the spring loaded "things" cancellation pins?
with my finger.
The problem is that the cancelling pawl?, bump?, lever?, cam?, which is
attached to & rotates with the steering wheel is about 3/8 inch too far
away, "outboard" to contact the cancelling pins. This lever may not even
be the correct part. It, the lever is L shaped, attaches under the
steering wheel nut & has a two prong end which maybe could contact the
cancelling pins if it was radically bent up (inboard) (about 3/8 inch)
to contact the cancelling pins.
Also the outer diameter of the stator tube base which the bakelite
switch mechanism is mounted on has an outer diameter which causes it to
be further outboard than the cancelling pins so that the cancelling
lever would have to be bent into a complex shape to miss the base &
still contact the cancelling pins.
The cancelling has never worked & it is possible that a previous owner
has installed the wrong parts or left something out. I have no idea how
the correct part relationship is supposed to look. Sorry this message is
so scrambled, I don't know exactly how to describe the parts.
Thanks for any ideas that you may have,
Dave Russell
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Cancelling ring.jpg]
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 13:08:26 EDT
Subject: Getting my tri-carb going
Am the original owner of a 1962 BT7, which was driven into a garage (San
Francisco Bay area) 10+ years ago, and, for one reason or another, left alone
ever since. There was fluid in all receptacles; though I'll refill and check
for leaks. Doesn't seem to be any noticeable rusting anywhere; gas tank
smells OK. I've put air in the tires, pulled the plugs and squirted some oil
into the cylinders. Want to get it running, but do not want to harm anything
(including myself :-), ha ha) in the process. Any ideas????
Dick Hosmer
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 13:09:48 -0400
Subject: RE: Locking front brake on BN1
We have encountered this type of problem with drum brakes before and
have usually found that it will go often away of its own accord after a
bit of light use of the brakes.
One trick is to move the brake drums side to side. I know not why but it
often makes the brake settle down.
If that doesn't work try moving the top shoe to the bottom and the
bottom to the top or if you are lucky enough to have shoes with adjuster
pins that go right through swap one shoe to the other side.
I would hesitate to think that the cylinders are the problem if they all
move freely on both sides and do not leak.
Good luck. Bet you are getting good at taking the drums on and off:-)
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of William F Schmidt
Sent: 22-Jun-02 9:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
I need some advice on the above problem.
First some history.
The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new brake
lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and master
cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been fault-free
since. Until now.
The car has been off the road for two years as I stripped off the old
paint and re-painted it and fixed a problem with a rear hub extension.
When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up under
moderate pressure. Like going 30 mph and slowing down to pull into a
gas
station 200 feet ahead. Sqealing tire, smoke and a violent pull to the
left. The other four brakes seem to be functioning normally.
Some additional details:
The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse although I
didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
When last driven there was no sign of this problem.
I first tried re-adjusting the shoes, including the steady posts. They
were in adjustment, I could lock them up and back them off fine. A road
test showed no change.
I removed the drums, shoes and springs to look for obvious damage.
None.
I checked all the points as listed in the shop manual. No oil or
anything on the linings, no brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinder
pistons
seem to be free. They can rotate in their bores and pushing one in
about
1/4" causes the other to move out the same amount and vice-versa.
I cleaned everything up, lubed the proper points with Girling white
brake
grease, reassembled, adjusted the shoes a little looser that I usually
do
and road tested. No change.
The only thing left is the wheel cylinders I guess. Any opinions on
which one or both? Any other ideas for something I missed? The key is
that this seems to have deveolped by itself over the past two years
while
the car was in the garage, not driven.
Thanks for your help.
Bill Schmidt
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:05:57 -0400
Subject: Re: RPM vs Speed.
I do not have a Lempert rearend (love that sound) but I seem to recall it
was 10/35 which makes it a 3.5. Is that right?
Keith Pennell
> Slight correction: the gear set is 3.54, not 3.55
>
> bs
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:01:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Interesting point. I was thinking about this possibility this morning as
I was mowing the lawn. I'll check it out over the next few days.
Thanks,
Bill
On Sun, 23 Jun 2002 00:12:51 +1000 "Chris Dimmock"
<cd3000@bigpond.net.au> writes:
> Bill
>
> My guess??
>
> The right front wheel cylinders are the ones locked up solid. ie
> they don't
> come on - the left front ones do - and the left front locks up, car
> pulls
> left etc etc etc
>
> I think you are looking inside the wrong drum....
>
> Chris
>
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 11:52 PM
> Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
>
>
> > I need some advice on the above problem.
> >
> > First some history.
> >
> > The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
> > thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new
> brake
> > lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and
> master
> > cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
> > silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been
> fault-free
> > since. Until now.
> >
> > The car has been off the road for two years as I stripped off the
> old
> > paint and re-painted it and fixed a problem with a rear hub
> extension.
> > When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up
> under
> > moderate pressure. Like going 30 mph and slowing down to pull
> into a gas
> > station 200 feet ahead. Sqealing tire, smoke and a violent pull
> to the
> > left. The other four brakes seem to be functioning normally.
> >
> > Some additional details:
> >
> > The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse
> although I
> > didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
> > When last driven there was no sign of this problem.
> > I first tried re-adjusting the shoes, including the steady posts.
> They
> > were in adjustment, I could lock them up and back them off fine.
> A road
> > test showed no change.
> > I removed the drums, shoes and springs to look for obvious damage.
> None.
> > I checked all the points as listed in the shop manual. No oil or
> > anything on the linings, no brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinder
> pistons
> > seem to be free. They can rotate in their bores and pushing one
> in about
> > 1/4" causes the other to move out the same amount and vice-versa.
> > I cleaned everything up, lubed the proper points with Girling
> white brake
> > grease, reassembled, adjusted the shoes a little looser that I
> usually do
> > and road tested. No change.
> > The only thing left is the wheel cylinders I guess. Any opinions
> on
> > which one or both? Any other ideas for something I missed? The
> key is
> > that this seems to have deveolped by itself over the past two
> years while
> > the car was in the garage, not driven.
> >
> > Thanks for your help.
> >
> > Bill Schmidt
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:14:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
I'm not sure what you mean by moving the drums side to side. Do you mean
swapping left and right ? Sounds like a plan. If that's want you mean
I'll do it. If NG I'll try the shoe swap.
I had been tending to think it might be one of those problems that would
go away with a bit of use when it first happened but it hasn't after
about 10 brake applications and is too scary to give it more time to heal
itself.
Last night I had the drums off and on three times, adjusted twice, shoes
off and on once plus three road tests in 3 hours!! Look out NASCAR pit
crews!
Thanks, Bill
On Sat, 22 Jun 2002 13:09:48 -0400 "Michael Salter"
<msalter@precisionsportscar.com> writes:
> Hi Bill,
>
> We have encountered this type of problem with drum brakes before and
> have usually found that it will go often away of its own accord
> after a
> bit of light use of the brakes.
> One trick is to move the brake drums side to side. I know not why
> but it
> often makes the brake settle down.
> If that doesn't work try moving the top shoe to the bottom and the
> bottom to the top or if you are lucky enough to have shoes with
> adjuster
> pins that go right through swap one shoe to the other side.
> I would hesitate to think that the cylinders are the problem if they
> all
> move freely on both sides and do not leak.
> Good luck. Bet you are getting good at taking the drums on and
> off:-)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of William F Schmidt
> Sent: 22-Jun-02 9:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
>
> I need some advice on the above problem.
>
> First some history.
>
> The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
> thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new
> brake
> lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and
> master
> cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
> silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been
> fault-free
> since. Until now.
>
> The car has been off the road for two years as I stripped off the
> old
> paint and re-painted it and fixed a problem with a rear hub
> extension.
> When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up
> under
> moderate pressure. Like going 30 mph and slowing down to pull into
> a
> gas
> station 200 feet ahead. Sqealing tire, smoke and a violent pull to
> the
> left. The other four brakes seem to be functioning normally.
>
> Some additional details:
>
> The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse
> although I
> didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
> When last driven there was no sign of this problem.
> I first tried re-adjusting the shoes, including the steady posts.
> They
> were in adjustment, I could lock them up and back them off fine. A
> road
> test showed no change.
> I removed the drums, shoes and springs to look for obvious damage.
> None.
> I checked all the points as listed in the shop manual. No oil or
> anything on the linings, no brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinder
> pistons
> seem to be free. They can rotate in their bores and pushing one in
> about
> 1/4" causes the other to move out the same amount and vice-versa.
> I cleaned everything up, lubed the proper points with Girling white
> brake
> grease, reassembled, adjusted the shoes a little looser that I
> usually
> do
> and road tested. No change.
> The only thing left is the wheel cylinders I guess. Any opinions on
> which one or both? Any other ideas for something I missed? The key
> is
> that this seems to have deveolped by itself over the past two years
> while
> the car was in the garage, not driven.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bill Schmidt
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:19:59 EDT
Subject: Re: RPM vs. speed
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:20:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Locking front brake on BN1
Swapping things side to side is actually a good way to find the root
cause of the problem as well.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: William F Schmidt [mailto:ah100m@juno.com]
Sent: 22-Jun-02 3:14 PM
To: msalter@precisionsportscar.com
Cc: ah100m@juno.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Mike-
I'm not sure what you mean by moving the drums side to side. Do you
mean
swapping left and right ? Sounds like a plan. If that's want you mean
I'll do it. If NG I'll try the shoe swap.
I had been tending to think it might be one of those problems that would
go away with a bit of use when it first happened but it hasn't after
about 10 brake applications and is too scary to give it more time to
heal
itself.
Last night I had the drums off and on three times, adjusted twice, shoes
off and on once plus three road tests in 3 hours!! Look out NASCAR pit
crews!
Thanks, Bill
On Sat, 22 Jun 2002 13:09:48 -0400 "Michael Salter"
<msalter@precisionsportscar.com> writes:
> Hi Bill,
>
> We have encountered this type of problem with drum brakes before and
> have usually found that it will go often away of its own accord
> after a
> bit of light use of the brakes.
> One trick is to move the brake drums side to side. I know not why
> but it
> often makes the brake settle down.
> If that doesn't work try moving the top shoe to the bottom and the
> bottom to the top or if you are lucky enough to have shoes with
> adjuster
> pins that go right through swap one shoe to the other side.
> I would hesitate to think that the cylinders are the problem if they
> all
> move freely on both sides and do not leak.
> Good luck. Bet you are getting good at taking the drums on and
> off:-)
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of William F Schmidt
> Sent: 22-Jun-02 9:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
>
> I need some advice on the above problem.
>
> First some history.
>
> The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
> thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new
> brake
> lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and
> master
> cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
> silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been
> fault-free
> since. Until now.
>
> The car has been off the road for two years as I stripped off the
> old
> paint and re-painted it and fixed a problem with a rear hub
> extension.
> When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up
> under
> moderate pressure. Like going 30 mph and slowing down to pull into
> a
> gas
> station 200 feet ahead. Sqealing tire, smoke and a violent pull to
> the
> left. The other four brakes seem to be functioning normally.
>
> Some additional details:
>
> The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse
> although I
> didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
> When last driven there was no sign of this problem.
> I first tried re-adjusting the shoes, including the steady posts.
> They
> were in adjustment, I could lock them up and back them off fine. A
> road
> test showed no change.
> I removed the drums, shoes and springs to look for obvious damage.
> None.
> I checked all the points as listed in the shop manual. No oil or
> anything on the linings, no brake fluid leaks. The wheel cylinder
> pistons
> seem to be free. They can rotate in their bores and pushing one in
> about
> 1/4" causes the other to move out the same amount and vice-versa.
> I cleaned everything up, lubed the proper points with Girling white
> brake
> grease, reassembled, adjusted the shoes a little looser that I
> usually
> do
> and road tested. No change.
> The only thing left is the wheel cylinders I guess. Any opinions on
> which one or both? Any other ideas for something I missed? The key
> is
> that this seems to have deveolped by itself over the past two years
> while
> the car was in the garage, not driven.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Bill Schmidt
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:29:50 -0400
Subject: Re: RPM vs. speed
Keith
> I believe the standard gearsets were 10/41, 11/43, and 11/39; this gives
> 4.100, 3.909, and 3.545, to three decimal places - most people round off.
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 16:00:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
> I need some advice on the above problem.
>
> First some history.
>
> The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
> thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new brake
> lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and master
> cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
> silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been fault-free
> since. Until now.
>
> When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up under
> moderate pressure
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 17:10:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
One of the curious things is is that the wheel does NOT lock up when the
car is off the ground. Spin the wheel, step on the brakes and the wheel
stops. Let go of the brakes and the wheel spins again.
By the way, the right front brake seems to work so they idea of the
problem being on that side is probably not the case.
This evening I'm going to swap drums first and then shoes to see what
that does. If I can get the problem to move to the right side then it's
a step toward being solved.
Thanks again,
Bill
On Sat, 22 Jun 2002 16:00:44 -0500 "Mr. Finespanner"
<MrFinespanner@prodigy.net> writes:
> Bill,
> Your problem is most likely the silicone fluid, which can swell and
> stiffen the wheel cylinder seals. With the drum off, press the
> brake
> pedal to move the wheel cylinder pistons out. If the pistons do not
> return when the pedal is released then the seals have swollen to the
>
> point that the return springs can't work, thus the brakes are
> locked.
> I have seen this problem in several cars running silicone brake
> fluid.
> CASTROL LMA BRAKE FLUID IS THE ONLY FLUID THAT
> SHOULD BE PUT IN A HEALEY.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 8:52 AM
> Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
>
>
> > I need some advice on the above problem.
> >
> > First some history.
> >
> > The car was completely restored 15 years ago and only has a couple
> > thousand mile put on it since then. The braking system got new
> brake
> > lines, hoses, shoes or liners, springs, new or rebuilt wheel and
> master
> > cylinders. After putting the system back together, filling it with
> > silicon fluid, bleading and adjusting the shoes it has been
> fault-free
> > since. Until now.
> >
> > When I took it for a ride yesterday the left front brake locked up
> under
> > moderate pressure
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 18:02:33 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 12
Since today's run was rather short (250 miles) and because there was to be
some semi-organized activity we took off at around 7:30 for the drive out
across the Great Salt Lake Desert, and it is certainly aptly named--a saline
lake in a desert depression. For the first 90 or so miles we sped west
across the basin on I-80. The four-laned road runs along two causeways, with
water on either side of and between them for the first 30 or 40 miles. If I
had been dropped there blindfolded I would have sworn I was along the New
England coast somewhere, as it smelled from brine like the seaside.
The first stop was just before the Nevada State Line to run out a peninsular
road about five miles to the site of the Bonneville Raceway, where Healeys
made early speed runs. Warnings notwithstanding, Julian Bowen felt compelled
to drive about 1/4 mile onto the flats and I predict that he will have the
lightest Austin-Healey at Tahoe. The corrosive salt--and it is all
SALT--tastes saltier than any salt I have ever tasted. I don't know if there
are scientific limits of absolute saltiness, but this was SALTY. And I also
now understand why those folks back in Kansas prefer the word "level", as
compared to this area that was the Himalayas, and I guess the name "salt
flats" says it all....
Following some group photos (about 10-12 cars) we ran into Wendover, which
straddles the Utah/Nevada State Line, with the attendant welcoming casinos.
Mark Bratakis (I think that is the correct spelling) from Salt Lake City,
this list's Meisterperson, was involved with some racing that was going on at
the Historic Wendover Airport. There was about a two-mile roadcourse set up,
and a Lotus 11 (For sale--$75k) was running around the track along with other
cars, ranging from modified rice burners thru a Viper or two. Talk was that
we were going to be permitted to run a demonstration lap or so, but I wanted
to beat the heat as did Clive and Pam in the Westland, so the two of us took
off down Alt. SR 93.
We had gone about 5 miles when a flagman stopped us, and there were several
State Police alongside the road. Turns out that tomorrow this 50-mile
section of road will be used in the "Bonneville 100 Rally", being run by
muscle cars that will have to average anywhere from 120 MPH or more,
depending on class over the highway (north, then back), with several time as
well as speed checkpoints along the way. The guys in the 120 mph class, for
example, cannot exceed 165 mph and radar guns are hidden randomly along the
route. There is also an unlimited class with cars expected to reach speeds
of 225 mph. This all happens along a two-lane State Road that is shut down
for the day, and there were folks from Texas and other parts further east
that were running speed runs, which is why we were stopped--holding until the
road cleared.
Anyway, as we came to a stop for the flagman a large puddle of gasoline
appeared under Clive's car. It turns out that his front carburettor float
was sunken and gas was pouring out of the top vent. This was particularly
signifigant in light of the challenge that Clive had made: Folks are able to
subscribe to a "betting pool" on his website (I don't have the address right
now but will post it later), wagering when he would break down (A breakdown
is defined as something that takes him off the road for three hours or more.
All proceeds go to "Save the Children" and winners get something like 500
europounds). Luckily I was carrying some JB Weld in my spares, and after
removing and repairing the offending float we took off again WELL WITHIN ONE
HOUR. Julian and Laurence had by this time rejoined us, and after the road
cleared we headed for Lades Junction, ate a quick lunch and then got onto SR
93 for the final 50 miles into Ely.
Several cars diverted from the Bonneville route at Grand Junction, CO, and
apparently spent last night in the Delta, CO area in order to go through
Moab. We are not all at the same motel but I assume that everyone who is
supposed to be here will be ready to shoot across the final and longest leg
of the trip along US 50 tomorrow (370 miles) into Tahoe. I am planning on an
early departure. I'll come back later with Clive's website and any other
news, but that's it for now.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
Tahoe tomorrow!
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 18:13:19 -0400
Subject: Sticking valve
This is not good! My BN1 engine sounds kind of 'clattery' so I figured I
should adjust the valves. I used the roll the car method. A couple valves were
slightly loose but most were okay. Then I got to the rear most valve and it
stuck open! I hit the end of the valve with a light hammer and it popped
closed. Not good!
The car seems to run okay but I really haven't had any Healey experience. The
engine kind of 'lopes' at idle. Is this normal? The valve train seems to quiet
down some when hot but it still 'ticks'.
It there some magic stuff I can dump in the oil to fix it? Probably not!
Any advice?
Ted Schroeder
1955 BN1
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 19:13:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: RPM vs. speed
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your ad for free now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 19:51:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 12
<<Best to all--Michael Oritt
Tahoe tomorrow!
>>
Godspeed, Michael. I'm sure many of us who can't make it to Tahoe and have
been enjoying your road reports would enjoy a report of your daily activities
at OR2002.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 20:10:13 -0400
Subject: Locking brakes on BN1
Bill Schmidt
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 20:37:22 -0500
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?eBay_Motors_item_1838744877_=28Ends_Jun-29-02=A0
Brian Collins
Click on the link below to go to the auction. Current bid is $100
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1838744877&ind
exURL=5&photoDisplayType=2#ebaylargephotohosting
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of
=?iso-8859-1?Q?eBay_Motors_item_1838744877_=28Ends_Jun-29-02=A0182823_P?=
=?iso-8859-1?Q?DT_=29_-_BMW__M-Series.url?=]
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 23:22:44 EDT
Subject: Clive Randall's website
Best--Michael
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From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 23:44:19 EDT
Subject: Snake River Canyon Incident-Final (hopefully) Report
I headed out at 6:30 am from West Yellowstone this morning, leaking 30w ND
oil but full. First stop was Idaho Falls, where I had planned to meet Jim
Sailer for another assault on the OD cover leak which has been plaguing me
since Wednesday afternoon. After a few stops around town I pulled into the
Rocky Mountain Toyota dealership. Jim came on down in his Land Rover
Defender, a really neat ride. Bill at the RM Toyota dealership put the
Healey up on a rack. We drained the trans and od and let it drain for a
while. Got a good close-up of Don's (from Alpine Junction) work. Basically
a bored out bolt with access hole about 3/8" from the head of the bolt to
allow oil to circulate in the system. Don is to be highly commended. I'm
definitely saving this bolt as a souvenir of the trip! I had picked up some
JB Weld waterweld, never used it before but it sets up fast and cures fast.
Bill built up a pretty good layer over several hours. Jim stayed there for
the duration, (thanks a bunch Jim, I really appreciate it). Took it down off
the lift, test drove it leak-free. Off Chris and I went after lunch with
Jim. Ran another 340 miles leak free. What a relief!!!
thanks everyone, for your support. I hope I have thanked everyone that
responded directly with suggestions. What a Great Bunch of People Healey
Folks Are...
Robert and Chris
in a 66BJ8 in beautiful Wells, NV
this whole country is magnificent and I'm privileged to be seeing some of it
through the windows of a Healey
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From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 23:10:41 -0500
Subject: Fixied my overdrive - Thanks
After several months of intermittent operation, my overdrive gave up for
good last month. After very carefully reading my Haynes and BMC manuals and
spending a good amount of time in the archives of this excellent list, I
decided to fix it today or bust, despite my fears of opening things up that
I might not be able to put back together again (I am by no means a mechanic,
but I manage to keep the healey on the road by close reading of the manuals
and this list). I admit to being a little shamed by all those brave souls
making their way to Tahoe, but I really enjoy reading all the travel posts
from them.
After following all the recommended diagnostic procedures I was able to
narrow it down to a non-functioning solenoid, and thence to a disintegrated
rubber stopper under the plunger. It was almost completely gone, and the
plunger seemed to be too far down, or at a bad angle, and wouldn't close. I
cleaned everything up and scrounged a little rubber foot from a discarded
small appliance (That's why I save everything, dear), applied a razor blade
to it, applied a little black silicone sealant to hold it in and voila, OD
again. I know this might not be too much to some of the pro's on this list,
but I was very pleased to have fixed it myself.
I am a little worried however, and I wonder if anyone can answer this
concern: the top of the solenoid was melted pretty badly, with icky stuff
running down it (some was inside and on the plunger too). So, I am wondering
if this is cause or effect? In other words, could the failure of the little
rubber stopper have caused the plunger to stick and thus cause the solenoid
to overheat? Or, could something have caused the solenoid plastic to have
melted, making a gooey mess on the plunger and thus causing the OD to fail?
It works ok now, so I am not going to order a new one unless someone who
knows better tells me to stop driving immediately and get a new solenoid
because I have a fire hazard or something else very bad going on.
While I was browsing the archives, I saw the reference to the Char Broil
Smoker Insulating Blanket to use in covering the trans cover. Since I had
all the carpet up anyway, I took the Del Sol over to Menards and sure
enough, they had 5 - I bought em all. Covered everything up nicely, put
everything back, got my sweetie out of her garden and we tested it out. She
thinks it is cooler and it may be, but to me it seemed like maybe the
difference between the 6th and 4th circles of hell or something - still very
warm.
Anyway, thanks to all on the list for supplying such good information over
the years. If anyone wants any of these insulating blankets, I have two left
over and will be glad to send them off. Two should be all you need to cover
the floors and trans cover unless you botch it once :-(
Terry Disz
62 BT7 TriCarb
93 Del Sol
98 JD 4100
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 10:06:20 -0400
Subject: RE: Fixied my overdrive - Thanks
The missing rubber stopper could definitely have caused your
solenoid to overheat. In fact, I am surprised that it still
works after all this. Here is a simple explanation:
The solenoid has two windings, one with a high current draw to
pull in the plunger and another with a lower draw to hold it in.
At the top, there is a set of contacts which open when the plunger
reaches the top of its stroke in order to cut out the pull in winding.
The current draw on the pull-in winding is high enough to melt the
wires in the overdrive harness or in the solenoid itself. If the
solenoid is operating normally and is adjusted properly, the pull-in
winding is only on for a second or two, not long enough to cause damage.
In your case, however, the plunger never got to the full up position, so
the pull-in winding stayed on, causing the damage which you observed.
As a bit of insurance, I put an inline fuse into the overdrive circuit
between the fuse block and the contacts of the overdrive relay (terminal
C1 or C2, whichever one is now connected directly to your fuse block).
Experiment with fuse sizes until you find the smallest size which does
not blow when you switch the overdrive on.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Terry Disz
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2002 12:11 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Fixied my overdrive - Thanks
Hello All,
After following all the recommended diagnostic procedures I was able to
narrow it down to a non-functioning solenoid, and thence to a disintegrated
rubber stopper under the plunger. It was almost completely gone, and the
plunger seemed to be too far down, or at a bad angle, and wouldn't close. I
cleaned everything up and scrounged a little rubber foot from a discarded
small appliance (That's why I save everything, dear), applied a razor blade
to it, applied a little black silicone sealant to hold it in and voila, OD
again. I know this might not be too much to some of the pro's on this list,
but I was very pleased to have fixed it myself.
I am a little worried however, and I wonder if anyone can answer this
concern: the top of the solenoid was melted pretty badly, with icky stuff
running down it (some was inside and on the plunger too). So, I am wondering
if this is cause or effect? In other words, could the failure of the little
rubber stopper have caused the plunger to stick and thus cause the solenoid
to overheat? Or, could something have caused the solenoid plastic to have
melted, making a gooey mess on the plunger and thus causing the OD to fail?
It works ok now, so I am not going to order a new one unless someone who
knows better tells me to stop driving immediately and get a new solenoid
because I have a fire hazard or something else very bad going on.
Terry Disz
62 BT7 TriCarb
93 Del Sol
98 JD 4100
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 08:14:24 -0700
Subject: Lempert Diff.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 11:51:43 -0400
Subject: Wire Wheel Tire mounting
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From Daniel Sherman <dsherm at mindspring.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:47:14 -0400
Subject: web page
Healey's (especially Sprite)
Mustang's
Gold Wing Motorcycles
I would like permission to include this group in on the web page by
putting a link to join the group. And what things other then a great
passion for the LBC.
Also on the Healey part of it I am going to put a part of it into a
showcase for Healey owners to put a pic of their LBC plus a story
about them or the car or both.
I would like some help with some stats and other info on all types of
Healeys. (production numbers, engine sizes available, costs when new,
options, etc.)
Now also is there anyone in or close enough to Harrisburg, PA. with a
MKII Sprite that I could get a picture of for on the main page. (since
mine is still in the process or restoration)
Will let you all know the site name once it is up if you wish.
Thanks Much
Daniel Sherman
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 11:19:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Tire mounting
Wire/knockoff wheels require a special adapter in order to balance the
wheel properly. Ask the shop to show you the adapter they use to
balance wires. If they say "we don't got to show you no stinkin' adapter"
go elsewhere. Otherwise, it's a reasonable indication they've done some
wires and should be OK.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> A local tire shop tell me that their tire mounting equipment will not
> harm wire wheels. What should I look for to satisfy myself that this
> is true? I know that the machines I remember being common in North
> American garages exerted a lot of lateral force.
> Stephen BJ8....new wheels
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From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 13:48:12 -0700
Subject: Re: SQUEALING BRAKES
Try a very very thin coating of blue gasket sealer spread out on the
back of the disc pad. Use an anti-squeal shim also. I've used this for
years to good effect.
Rich
BT7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 22:57:49 +0100
Subject: Finding the timing mark (BJ8)
I've located the pointer, but am not sure where to look on the
pulley/damper for the TDC mark. The manual does not make it clear (to me
at least). Is it on the pulley or the damper that rotates with it? If
the damper, is it on the periphery or on the face? If on the pulley, is
it on the part that is in contact with the belt? What does the mark look
like?
While I'm here, is there a write-up on the web that gives a bit more
detail about how to set up the timing than just the figures in the
manual? If I don't see what I should see, I'd like to know which error
is down to centrifugal problems and which to vacuum problems.
Thanks, as always.....
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From JLore26 at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:13:32 EDT
Subject: re:Who is Michael Oritt
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bbq
group1.JPG]
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:47:40 EDT
Subject: Ocean City to Tahoe--Day 13 (arrival!)
We had a long day ahead of us (370 miles) so got the "desert start" at 5:00
AM. Clive had removed the grill in his Westland yesterday morning which
relieved his over-heating problem somewhat, and we were able to travel at
higher speeds, esp. in the morning coolness. Actually, we had gained another
hour on arrival in Nevada and it was already breaking light when we departed
west on US 50. By the time the Sun came up high enough to light up the
valleys we had already crossed the Eagan Range and made our first stop for
gas in Eureka (I think the locals named the town for the price that the
traffic would bear for gas--$2.10 for 89 octane). From there it was about
180 miles to Fallon, our breakfast destination, and we zipped across
successive mountain ranges and valleys--things got particularly pretty as we
passed beyond Austin and Shoshone Mountains. There were several US Navy
installations along the desert route which struck me as curious--turns out
that the Top Gun Fighter School has been relocated to this area.
I just missed a jack rabbit which chose to cross ahead of me and shortly
after that got a bird strike on the windshield--luckily for me it was just
below the frame and the glass did not shatter but I'm afraid the bird did not
fare too well. I had, btw, gotten a star-chip several days ago back in
Kansas from a gravel truck, but I don't plan to deal with this until getting
back to Maryland.
After breakfast in Fallon, Peter and Ann Hunt caught up and ran the balance
of the trip with us, so the UK contingent finished the trip as they started.
Julian has a 3' x 5' Union Jack on a collapsible pole which attaches to his
rear bumper and we stopped so that he could erect it for the grand entry into
Tahoe. Nevertheless our arrival was somewhat anti-climactic with no waiting
brass band, and we were unceremoniously directed to the rear parking lot
which is a vertible field of Healeys. Folks are still reaching and thus far
both the Horizon staff and the Open Roads folks have done their best to
handle the jam--I was registered in both places within 30 minutes of arrival.
So that's it! As far as I know everyone in the Highway 50 group completed
the trip with little problem and great aplomb. My small diffiulty with the
key switch may have been related more to overcurrent caused by an undersized
supply wire to the MSD Blaster coil and/or lack of a ballast resistor. All
talk about our cars' being fragile and undependable notwithstanding, I
remain another satisfied Healey customer.
I'll leave it to others to write about Open Roads--I'm here to enjoy and
participate. My wife is joining me in a few days and after the event is over
we are travelling down the PCH to LA where my children live. My daughter
will travel with me for a few days to Albuquerque over the July 4th weekend
and then I'll return to the East Coast alone.
Early in Blue Highways William Least Heat Moon referred to Travels With
Charley, Steinbeck's famous book about driving around the US in a van with
his dog, saying that being on the road with no companion--animal or
human--makes for a better observer. Much of the detail about which I have
reported came from not being distracted by conversation and/or from talking
to the locals about what was what. So unless something of general interest
comes up I'll sign off for a few weeks and will resume posts when my limited
powers of observation are enabled by solitary driving.
Best to all and thanks to those who waded through the trip with me--Michael
Oritt
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From "T.R. Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:58:47 +0000
Subject: Conclave
T.R.
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:05:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking brakes on BN1
No, the left front dosen't lock up permenantly (sp) when I'm driving. It
grabs severly under moderate pressure but releases normally. Like one
shoe is wedged against the drum. Smoke and squeals and a left turn!
The tests on jack stands indicate the brakes are functioning normally so
obviously it's not a true test.
More test results in a few days. I was going to do more today but it was
such a lovely day here today on Long Island (NY) my wife and I went
bicycling out in Bridgehampton. Saw a few million Porches and Bimmers,
one Roller, a TR4A, a Fiat 124 Spyder, some newish Aston Martin, a 365
Ferrari conv, 3 Model A Fords, a 39 Ford Vicky, a 68 Impala. All being
driven like they were normal (!) cars.
Thanks,
Bill
On Sun, 23 Jun 2002 10:10:38 -0500 <Austrheamgafun@arczip.com> writes:
> Hi Bill,
>
> Just curious. I didn't get the chance to read all of your details,
> but
> you've got my curiosity. When the brake locks up while driving,
> does it
> eventually release? Is it pulling severely to one side, then
> releases when
> you let off the brake? I believe you said that it releases fine
> when the
> car is on jack stands, but it doesn't release while driving. Are
> you
> applying the same amount of foot/pedal pressure while the car is on
> jack
> stands?
>
> It sounds as if you either have a wheel cylinder problem, or you
> might have
> a contaminated brake lining causing one to grab harder than the
> other,
> therefore pulling to one side. If it's not releasing properly, then
> I'd
> have to say you have a wheel cylinder problem.
>
> Scott Helms
> Austrheamgafun@arczip.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 7:10 PM
> Subject: Locking brakes on BN1
>
>
> > Well, I swapped front drums, left to right. No change - the left
> front
> > still locks up. Next (tomorrow) the shoes.
> >
> > Bill Schmidt
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 19:51:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking brakes on BN1
This was suggested by another and it made sense. However, the right
brake seems to be working fine, but I'll keep it in mind.
Thanks,
Bill
On Sun, 23 Jun 2002 12:17:17 -0400 "Bob Coates"
<Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com> writes:
>
> I am just jumping in to this, however, I had a similar situation
> with one
> front brake locking up. The problem was that the other front brake
> was not
> working and all of the front pressure was going to one piston as the
> other
> one was frozen up and not functioning. Just a personal comment from
> personal experience. Regards.
>
>
> BOB COATES
> REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: HundredSix@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:15:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Peter-
Another good possibility. I will check it out and reply back.
Thanks,
Bill
On Sat, 22 Jun 2002 14:48:53 EDT HundredSix@aol.com writes:
> Bill,
> My guess would be the brake hose. The rubber could have
> collapsed inside
> making it act almost like a one way valve under pressure.
> Peter
________________________________________________________________
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: Hoylehouse@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:08:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Scotty-
Nope. Front shoes I think can only be put on one way but I'll double
check when I get back into it. Anyway, who snuck into my garage and
switched 'em?
To me it's as if the brake drum isn't round or is not centered on the
hub. But it WAS round and centered the last time I drove the car!
Thanks,
Bill
On Sat, 22 Jun 2002 11:27:00 EDT Hoylehouse@aol.com writes:
> SOUNDS LIKE LEADING SHOE ON WRONG.......IF MEMORY SERVES THE SMALL
> SHOE GOES
> TO THE FRONT........SCOTTY
________________________________________________________________
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 22:32:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking brakes on BN1
Mark and Mike-
On the posibility of bad flex hoses. This would be a possibility except
for the fact that with the wheels of the ground the brake acts normally.
Press on the brake and a spinning wheel is stopped. Release the brake
and the wheel again spins free.
It seems more to be a problem of the shoes being jammed ("over
self-servoed") against the spinning drum when the car is actually on the
road. Like I said before, tomorrow I'll try swapping the shoes
left-to-right. If that dosen't do it I'm going to start dismantling the
hydraulics for the wheel.
One thing I checked was to make sure that the drum was properly seated on
the shoulders of the four mounting studs on the hub. If it wasn't that
would cause my problem. It WAS porperly seated. Oh well. That would
have been too easy I guess. Plus, how did it happen sitting in the
garage?
Bill
On Sat, 22 Jun 2002 20:25:08 -0500 "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
writes:
> Bill,
>
> I have come in a little late in this discussion but I wonder if you
> have
> replaced the flexible brake hoses on the front of your car? They
> have a bad
> habit of swelling up on the inside (where you can't see it) and
> causing the
> release of the pressure to be restricted. Usually they work fine
> under the
> high pressure of the master cylinder but won't let the brake fluid
> go
> backwards when your release the brakes. They will slowly allow it's
> return
> so after a period of time the brakes will release and act normal
> until you
> press on the pedal again. It can be diagnosed by creating the
> problem and
> then loosening the hose at the caliper and see if it moves back to
> normal
> position. I have been there a couple of times over the years.
>
> Mark
> BN1
> Nashville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 7:10 PM
> Subject: Locking brakes on BN1
>
>
> Well, I swapped front drums, left to right. No change - the left
> front
> still locks up. Next (tomorrow) the shoes.
>
> Bill Schmidt
>
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 20:56:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Getting my tri-carb going
Car is in Marin Co., but it was garaged in SF. I only put the location in to
indicate that it had never been salted, etc. We're in the process of
relocating to Colusa (one hour NW of Sacramento). I had visions of driving it
- my better half insists on towing/trailering. She is probably right. I
shouldn't rush the job.
Thanks for the note - email me anytime.
Dick
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 21:02:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
The leading (primary) shoe goes to the front, or top in this case IIRC, and
the braking material itself has less cross sectional area than the back, or
bottom, shoe. I've seen them reversed and also seen two primaries on one
corner with two secondaries on another. Either can cause what you describe.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> The left front dosen't seem to lock up when going in reverse although I
> didn't go 30 mph in reverse to be certain (!).
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 22:59:23 -0700
Subject: motor paint
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 23:12:35 EDT
Subject: The funniest sight of the whole trip
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 23:17:32 -0700
Subject: Re: The funniest sight of the whole trip
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I forgot to mention this earlier: Today while driving through--I
> think--Silver Springs we passed a very large oak tree standing alone along
> the north side of US 50. Hanging from its branches were hundreds of pairs of
> shoes of all types. Anyone know anything about this?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 01:43:38 EDT
Subject: Fwd: [CAAHC] Th, e funniest sight of the whole trip
> Michael,
>
> Is this the tree you saw?
>
> On Highway 50 near Middle Gate, Nevada, a lone cottonwood stands, clotted
> with hundreds of shoes. One tipster tells us the first pair was thrown
> during a wedding night argument by a young couple; later, their children's
> shoes were added to the bough. Whatever its origins, the tree now seems to
> suck up all the discarded footwear in the county.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Well, I thought it was a bit further west and I obviously don't know an oak
from a cottonwood, but that's the one!
Biff gets the award for the "sole" correct answer.
Best--Michael
Return-Path: <biffjones@erols.com>
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From: "Biff Jones" <biffjones@erols.com>
To: <awgertoo@aol.com>
References: <19c.43722a1.2a47e823@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [CAAHC] The funniest sight of the whole trip
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 23:58:34 -0400
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Michael,
Is this the tree you saw?
On Highway 50 near Middle Gate, Nevada, a lone cottonwood stands, clotted
with hundreds of shoes. One tipster tells us the first pair was thrown
during a wedding night argument by a young couple; later, their children's
shoes were added to the bough. Whatever its origins, the tree now seems to
suck up all the discarded footwear in the county.
I take it all the rt50ers made it, ie, Steve Byers who is to pick up my copy
of 'The Healey Book'?
After reading the journals of the trip, I'm sitting here kicking myself for
not planning in advance....
Enjoy,
Biff
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 18:24:23 +1000
Subject: Re: The funniest sight of the whole trip
| Was probably a shoe tree.
|
| Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
|
| > I forgot to mention this earlier: Today while driving through--I
| > think--Silver Springs we passed a very large oak tree standing alone
along
| > the north side of US 50. Hanging from its branches were hundreds of
pairs of
| > shoes of all types. Anyone know anything about this?
| >
| > Best--Michael Oritt
|
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From BSands8417 at aol.com
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:03:32 EDT
Subject: Re: The Funniest Sight on the Whole Trip (More Info)
"I forgot to mention this earlier: Today while driving through--I
think--Silver Springs we passed a very large oak tree standing alone along
the north side of US 50. Hanging from its branches were hundreds of pairs of
shoes of all types. Anyone know anything about this?
Best--Michael Oritt "
////////////////////
Could this have been EUREKA Springs, Arkansas? If you go to GOOGLE and search
for "oak tree", shoes, you will get a number of hits which will lead you to
entries such as the following (note that the route numbers in the Beaver
entry do not match Michael's Route 50):
Beaver, <A HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/map/ar.html";>AR</A> - Shoe Tree
Yes, maybe a thousand shoes dangle from the tree now, and a handful from its
neighbors -- maybe it's branching out? This is on the southern half of the
route 187 loop to Beaver Lake just northwest of Eureka Springs. (The first
junction with it as you leave town.) It's about one mile from route 62, and
on the north side of the road (right side if you're coming from town), with a
large gravel area you can park in about 100 yards east of it. Sneakers are
the most common hangings, but I saw cowboy boots, firemen's boots, dress
shoes, sandals and lots more. I didn't see any high heels, though! Some of
the newer additions were signed and dated; a bit of "Kilroy was here" and a
bit of "Johnny loves Cindy." [Robert Matthews, 11/20/1999]
//////////////////////
Another entry shows he following tree(s)
Shoe Trees may be the greatest embodiment of the American Spirit you can
find on the highway (free of admission charge, anyway). While cultural
anthropologists trumpet the aggregated populist statement of the gum tree or
the gob rock, we believe Shoe Trees soar to greater heights. A shoe tree
starts with one dreamer, tossing his or her footwear-of-old high into the
sky, to catch on an out-of-reach branch. It usually end there, unseen and
neglected by others. But on rare occasions, that first pair of shoes triggers
a shoe tossing cascade. Soon, teens are gathering up their old Adidas and
Sauconys, families are driving out after church with Dad's Reeboks and
grandma's Keds. The shoe tree blooms with polymer beauty. A work of art like
this may last for generations, tracing our history by our sneakers . . . <A
HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/news/000514ARBEA.html";>as
long as the tree doesn't die</A>. On Highway 50 near Middle Gate, <A
HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/map/nv.html";>Nevada</A>, a lone
cottonwood stands, clotted with hundreds of shoes. One tipster tells us the
first pair was thrown during a wedding night argument by a young couple;
later, their children's shoes were added to the bough. Whatever its origins,
the tree now seems to suck up all the discarded footwear in the county.
Another lone Shoe Tree is reported between Alturas, CA and Lakeview, <A
HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/map/or.html";>Oregon</A>,
on Hwy 395. The tree features scores of sneaker pairs dangling from branches,
a strange ritual by bored locals. The Shoe Tree in Beaver, <A
HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/map/ar.html";>Arkansas</A> is on the
road to Beaver Dam, a few miles from <A
HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/map/ar.html";>Dinosaur World</A>. It has
been mysteriously
chosen, one of many thousands of trees and woods lining an otherwise
featureless highway. Hundreds of old sneakers and running shoes dangle, some
over 30 feet off the ground. Why this particular tree instead of its scores
of flanking arboreal brethren? There's a dirt shoulder where tourists and
contributors pull off. Many of the shoes have names and messages scrawled on
them in magic marker. Closer inspection reveals that shoes have spread to
branches on adjacent trees, like sneaker kudzu. Eventually, this whole
stretch of road will be choked with shoe trees. (Shoe Trees: #1: Middle Gate,
NV, Hwy 50. #2: South of Lakeview, OR, Hwy 395. east side of 2-lane highway.
#3: Hwy 187, 1 mi from Rt. 62, Beaver, AR ) May 14, 2000: The Shoe Tree in
Beaver, Arkansas was felled by a bad storm, waterlogged shoes possibly
contributing to its demise. See the <A
HREF="http://www.roadsideamerica.com/news/000514ARBEA.html";>news story</A>.
Michael, do any of these ring a bell?
Ben Sands
Vienna, VA
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:40:18 -0400
Subject: Re: The funniest sight of the whole trip
You shoed have listened to her! They hang on trees!
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From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:09:47 -0600
Subject: Engine won't start
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 08:19:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Both shoes function as trailing shoes with the car in reverse, so it would
take a higher pedal effort to get the same result--there's no servo effect
in reverse.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
> From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
> Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 04:31:07 -0400
> To: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
> Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Hmm, then only the rears are leading/trailing. OK, are the fronts dual
> piston slave cylinders, or dual single units?
>
> TIA,
>
> GM
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> GM,
>> They're double-leading shoe brakes--both shoes are identical and primary.
>> --
>> Steve Gerow
>> Pasadena CA
>> 59 BN6
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:52:04 -0400
Subject: a day in the life...(little long)
Steve
61BN7
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 09:04:51 -0700
Subject: Re: motor paint
If I recall correctly from your earier posts, your car is a "transition" BN4
built when production was being moved from Longbridge to Abingdon. If so,
the engine might have been originally painted Morris olive green. I have
one of these cars also and the engine still has the original dark green
paint. It is my understanding that the BMC green that Moss sells for
Spridgets is the same color.
John
'58 BN4
>From: stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
>Reply-To: stephen tjepkema <stjepkem@optonline.net>
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: motor paint
>Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 22:59:23 -0700
>
>Hi can anyone tell me were I can get the right motor paints for my 58
>bn4,If anybody would like to pass along pictures of there motors that would
>be great Thanks Steven
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:33:07 EDT
Subject: timing chain seal
The seal the supplier sent looks like a seal you would use on a wheel
bearing. Did I get the wrong seal or is there a trick to this?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 10:23:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Starter not engaging
Occasionally when I go to start my BJ8 with the key,
the starter will not engage. If I reach down behind
the solenoid and press the manual button, it will work
fine, and then the key will work as well.
Is the likely problem with the solenoid?
Thanks in advance
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 10:51:05 -0700
Subject: Seat Belt Recommendations for BJ8?
Thanks all.
GW
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 13:49:41 -0400
Subject: Neat Search Engine
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:24:26 -0400
Subject: Paging Mal Bruce
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From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 13:45:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: oscillating idle (6 cylinders)
The problem is on an Aston DB2 but since it is a 6 banger with 2
SU's, I thought you guys might have an idea.
Cheers
Francois
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:44:32 -0400
Subject: generator testing
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From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 19:20:22 -0400
Subject: Re: generator testing
I can say for certain that my service manual states that the resistance
of the field coils should be about 6 ohms and that they (the field
coils) should draw about 2 amps when hooked to a 12 v source. Also, the
manual states that if output is in the 1/2 to 1 volt range (when tested
on the car) that it is most likely damaged field coils.
I hope this helps
Nick
Dennis Broughel wrote:
>
> Listers:
> I am at the point in my Healey saga where I would like to check the
> performance of my generator. I have mounted the generator on a stand and
> hooked an old washing machine motor to it via a belt. I plug in the
> electric motor and drive the generator (in the proper direction) . set
> my multi meter to 20 D.C. volts and the meter reads 0.37 - 0.39
> volts. I have taken the generator apart and cleaned the inside and the
> armatures with brake cleaner, fine steel wool and fine sand paper, being
> very careful not to damage any of the windings,and the volt meter reads
> the same.
> The car has been in storage for 25 years. Am I not testing correctly
> ? or should I just take this to a professional.
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:27:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Seat Belt Recommendations for BJ8?
Have just been through this hoop myself.
Points to consider:
1. An automatic belt coil will normally sit at floor level, so that its
axis is horizontal - you might find it difficult to fix these, and the
factory-installed anchor point is badly placed for this.
2. You can get a special design that will mount the coil on the upper
attachment point, and work at other angles, but I think it only has one
locking mechanism (fast unreel). Belts ideally will lock on either fast
unreeling or heavy braking.
3. If you put a coil at the upper attachment point, you will be unable
to fold down the rear seat back into the parcel shelf position.
4. If your belts are bolted in place, you will be unable to thread them
through the flaps in the tonneau cover when this is installed over the
rear half of the cockpit. You will need clip-ons or clevis pin
attachments at the lower points to achieve this (at least for the sill
fixings).
In the end I opted for non-recoil belts, with clip-ons at the lower
points (as I had eyes already installed), and a fixed swivel mounting
for the upper attachment. Has a UK specialist company make them up to my
spec, with classic chrome buckles and chromium-plated clip-ons and
bolts.
Hope this helps.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:01:46 -0400
Subject: Brake bleeding BN1
Please help. The brake reservoir is topped up, I'm getting fluid into
to the master cylinder, the internals of the master cylinder look to be
in good shape, I've connected my Mighty Vac suction gizmo to the bleeder
screw (I tried this at all four wheels) and opened the screw a tad, I
give it about 15 pumps and I see vacuum indicated on the guage, I get
just a tiny bit of fluid and a lot of air bubbles (not a lot of fluid
and a few air bubbles as hoped for). I replaced all the brake lines so
I'm thinking I have to draw a lot of air out before I start to draw any
fluid but I'm just not getting any fluid. I even disconnected the line
that goes from the reservoir into the 5 way connector and tried to draw
fluid from it but I got nothing. Any thoughts? I'm losing a whole lot
of sleep over this. Thanks , Dan.
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From William F Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:20:25 -0400
Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
Bill Schmidt
________________________________________________________________
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:26:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
William F Schmidt wrote:
> Tonight I swapped the shoes on the left brake, top for bottom. Adjusted
> 'em, went for a ride down the driveway - no difference. Next it's shoes
> left to right although I'd be willing to bet the results will be the
> same.
>
> Bill Schmidt
>
> __
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 00:06:31 -0400
Subject: Synthetic vs silicone
A friend posed this question and I could only make a guess. Are silicone
brake fluids and synthetic brake fluids the same?
Keith Pennell
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From "bob & bev hatcher" <bandbhatcher at hotmail.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:52:53 +1000
Subject: Drum brakes squealing
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From "rob" <rob at iwjlaw.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:50:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Seat Belt Recommendations for BJ8?
TIA
Rob White
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 01:05:32 EDT
Subject: Ideas, good, bad, neutral?
I also intend to change the rear end from 3.91 to 4.10 (which wasn't offered
in the 3000) to get a bit more 'dig'. I do not particularly care if the car
is fast (too many things can go wrong at high speed) but I want it to be
quick.
And, I'm toying with the idea of somehow mounting the spare over the location
of the "occasional" seats. Of course, I would want to do it in such a way
that nothing structural was permanently altered, and that was neatly
upholstered and finished. Does anyone know if a "kit" to do this has ever
been available?
Thanks,
Dick Hosmer
former: 59BN7 (one of the first on the West Coast)
present: 62BT7-tricarb (Best of marque, Sports Car Olympics - Squaw Valley
1963)
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:57:20 +0800
Subject: Re: Ideas, good, bad, neutral?
Looks like that cam is from a BJ8. Not much racing about it. If you add a
couple of 2" SU's ie HD8's it will run a lot better.
Been there, done that - to my 1959 BT7.
Cheers
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 1:05 PM
Subject: Ideas, good, bad, neutral?
> As part of long range plans for my BT7, I plan to scavenge the cam from a
> spare 29K engine that I bought years ago. If I read the literature
correctly,
> this is the old factory 'racing' cam, AEC865, 51-21/16-56? The engine,
> though it is missing a lot of topside stuff, does still have the
distributor.
> I'm assuming I should swap that too, since the weights or springs just
might
> be a tad different? Does this change make sense? Would carbs need to be
> enlarged at the same time? I hope not - that would be a fitting problem
> (unless HD6s bolt to HS4 holes), to say nothing of visually destroying the
> originality. I'd like to approach the Rudd power level without great
expense,
> if I can capitalize on using some of my hoarded parts!
>
> I also intend to change the rear end from 3.91 to 4.10 (which wasn't
offered
> in the 3000) to get a bit more 'dig'. I do not particularly care if the
car
> is fast (too many things can go wrong at high speed) but I want it to be
> quick.
>
> And, I'm toying with the idea of somehow mounting the spare over the
location
> of the "occasional" seats. Of course, I would want to do it in such a way
> that nothing structural was permanently altered, and that was neatly
> upholstered and finished. Does anyone know if a "kit" to do this has ever
> been available?
>
> Thanks,
> Dick Hosmer
> former: 59BN7 (one of the first on the West Coast)
> present: 62BT7-tricarb (Best of marque, Sports Car Olympics - Squaw Valley
> 1963)
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:30:40 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Brake bleeding BN1
Al (BJ8 Fun-aint-it)
> Listers,
>
> Please help. The brake reservoir is topped up, I'm getting fluid into
> to the master cylinder, the internals of the master cylinder look to be
> in good shape, I've connected my Mighty Vac suction gizmo to the
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From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:07:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Brake bleeding BN1
Steve
61BN7
Please help. The brake reservoir is topped up, I'm getting fluid into
to the master cylinder, the internals of the master cylinder look to be
in good shape, I've connected my Mighty Vac suction gizmo to the bleeder
screw (I tried this at all four wheels) and opened the screw a tad, I
give it about 15 pumps and I see vacuum indicated on the guage, I get
just a tiny bit of fluid and a lot of air bubbles (not a lot of fluid
and a few air bubbles as hoped for). I replaced all the brake lines so
I'm thinking I have to draw a lot of air out before I start to draw any
fluid but I'm just not getting any fluid. I even disconnected the line
that goes from the reservoir into the 5 way connector and tried to draw
fluid from it but I got nothing. Any thoughts? I'm losing a whole lot
of sleep over this. Thanks , Dan.
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:31:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Subject: The funniest sight of the whole trip
If you ski at Grand Targhee in Wyo or Bogus Basin in Idaho you can see a
subspecies of the "Shoe-tree" ... the famous and rare "Women's
Underwear-Tree"..
Jim Sailer
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:39:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Subject: The funniest sight of the whole trip
James Sailer wrote:
> Micheal,
>
> If you ski at Grand Targhee in Wyo or Bogus Basin in Idaho you can see a
> subspecies of the "Shoe-tree" ... the famous and rare "Women's
> Underwear-Tree"..
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:08:25 +0100
Subject: Disposing of Club magazines - UK
I am disposing of the following UK Club magazines - the new owner collects! (As
they are very heavy, posting overseas from the UK is not feasible).
1. "Rev Counter" from September 1979 to January 1994 inclusive. The majority
are bound in 5 volumes, the remainder are unbound.
2. South Western Centre Newsletters November 1979 to July 1990 inclusive.
(These are all A4 size, unbound, but contain a wealth of technical and
historical information).
If anyone is interested, please e-mail me off-list.
Regards
Paul
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: William F Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: mark@nashvilletn.org
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:40:53 -0400
Subject: Locking Brake on BN1
________________________________________________________________
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:42:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Doug-
Piston return, on jackstands, seems proper on both front wheels. Even on
the road the left unlocks after you take your foot off the brake. It's
just the locking under light-to-modearte pressure that's the problem.
Thanks,
Bill
On Mon, 24 Jun 2002 22:49:25 -0500 "Mr. Finespanner"
<MrFinespanner@prodigy.net> writes:
> Bill,
> Did you check the piston return as I suggested? I see no reference
> to this in your post.
> Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 8:20 PM
> Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
>
>
> > Tonight I swapped the shoes on the left brake, top for bottom.
> Adjusted
> > 'em, went for a ride down the driveway - no difference. Next it's
> shoes
> > left to right although I'd be willing to bet the results will be
> the
> > same.
> >
> > Bill Schmidt
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> >> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:52:19 -0700
Subject: Tahoe Pics
Anyway, we took a loop around the lake late Sunday afternoon. By then it
finally cooled down. (Who knew Tahoe was so hot!?) That's where we came
across the HackerCraft boat. The rest of the pics are of the event at the
school, and a few as we got close to home. (Total fog, 55 degrees!)
For the listers that made it to the pub Sunday, nice to meet you all. Same
for Reid, Blair, Greg K.
Bill B., your Silverstone is awesome.
Here's the link. www.handsonresearch.com/tahoe The thumbnails are small,
but I left the pix full size, so they may take a while to load.
BK
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:46:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Tahoe Pics
Jim
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 11:54:01 -0600
Subject: Tahoe Pics
Really enjoyed the photos.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Well it turned out to be a shorter trip than I planned. My nephew and I
drove up Sunday morning, following the route that Gary Anderson mapped out.
(Thanks Gary, nice scenery.) Despite a radiator that looks like it will
turn to dust, my temp never went over 190 the whole way.
Anyway, we took a loop around the lake late Sunday afternoon. By then it
finally cooled down. (Who knew Tahoe was so hot!?) That's where we came
across the HackerCraft boat. The rest of the pics are of the event at the
school, and a few as we got close to home. (Total fog, 55 degrees!)
For the listers that made it to the pub Sunday, nice to meet you all. Same
for Reid, Blair, Greg K.
Bill B., your Silverstone is awesome.
Here's the link. http://www.handsonresearch.com/tahoe The thumbnails are small,
but I left the pix full size, so they may take a while to load.
BK
/
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:22:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
Pulling to one side when braking is trivializing it. Upon moderate
pressure the LF just STOPS! Smoke, squeal and a hard turn to the left!
(By the way, BN1's have drums, not discs on the front).
I wish the problem WERE a simple one. It may wind up the the RF is NOT
braking but this is down my list of causes. I still am favoring a bad
flex hose.
Thanks,
Bill
On Tue, 25 Jun 2002 11:14:57 -0400 "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg@juno.com>
writes:
> Bill,
>
> I have been sort of following this thread and have a question. By
> locking you mean that the car pulls to one side or the other when
> braking? I'm by no means an expert, but would that mean one side is
> not braking? Even if both pistons contact the rotor one side is
> possibly not holding pressure. The problem is a very simple one.
>
> regards,
>
> Doug
>
> On Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:42:15 -0400 Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
> writes:
> > --------- Forwarded message ----------
> > From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
> > To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
> > Cc: Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:12:25 -0400
> > Subject: Re: Locking front brake on BN1
> >
> > Doug-
> >
> > Piston return, on jackstands, seems proper on both front wheels.
>
> > Even on
> > the road the left unlocks after you take your foot off the brake.
>
> > It's
> > just the locking under light-to-modearte pressure that's the
> > problem.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> >
> > On Mon, 24 Jun 2002 22:49:25 -0500 "Mr. Finespanner"
> > <MrFinespanner@prodigy.net> writes:
> > > Bill,
> > > Did you check the piston return as I suggested? I see no
> > reference
> > > to this in your post.
> > > Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 8:20 PM
> > > Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
> > >
> > >
> > > > Tonight I swapped the shoes on the left brake, top for bottom.
>
> > > Adjusted
> > > > 'em, went for a ride down the driveway - no difference. Next
>
> > it's
> > > shoes
> > > > left to right although I'd be willing to bet the results will
> be
> >
> > > the
> > > > same.
> > > >
> > > > Bill Schmidt
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From Bill Schmidt <ah100m at juno.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:24:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Locking Brake on BN1
Not a bad idea, although the way the brake lines are routed on a 100 it's
hard to crimp one but I'll check it out.
Thanks,
Bill
On Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:52:41 -0500 "Wm. Severin Thompson"
<wsthompson@thicko.com> writes:
> Bill, have you carefully inspected the lines from beginning to end on
> that
> side? Perhaps revoving any clips and running you fingers behind to
> check all
> surfaces for any crimping?
>
> WST
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 9:40 AM
> Subject: Locking Brake on BN1
>
>
> > Chris-
> >
> > Tire (tyre) pressures are fine, no flat spot (although I'm working
> on
> > one!), dampers are OK as well. No suspension problems, backing
> plates
> > are good and secure.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill
> > On Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:37:49 +1000 "Chris Dimmock"
> > <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> writes:
> > > Ok Bill
> > >
> > > If the wheel cylinders are both 'free' ie one isn't solid (my
> first
> > > guess) -
> > > then its time to check tyres & shocks.
> > >
> > > Is one tyre flat ie lower tyre pressure?
> > > Is one tyre flat spotted?
> > > Is one shock leaking or leaked out the fluid?
> > >
> > > That would explain why it doesn't lock in the garage - but does
> on
> > > the road.
> > >
> > > Good luck
> > >
> > > Chris
> > > ______________________________________
> > >
> > > Chris Dimmock
> > > Sydney Australia
> > > 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> > >
> > > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> > > ______________________________________
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 11:20 AM
> > > Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
> > >
> > >
> > > > Tonight I swapped the shoes on the left brake, top for
> bottom.
> > > Adjusted
> > > > 'em, went for a ride down the driveway - no difference. Next
> it's
> > > shoes
> > > > left to right although I'd be willing to bet the results will
> be
> > > the
> > > > same.
> > > >
> > > > Bill Schmidt
> > > >
> > > >
> ________________________________________________________________
> > > > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > > > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > > > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________
> > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> >
> >> NOT be
> sent.
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 13:37:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Locking Brake on BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
To: <wsthompson@thicko.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: Locking Brake on BN1
> WST-
>
> Not a bad idea, although the way the brake lines are routed on a 100 it's
> hard to crimp one but I'll check it out.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> On Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:52:41 -0500 "Wm. Severin Thompson"
> <wsthompson@thicko.com> writes:
> > Bill, have you carefully inspected the lines from beginning to end on
> > that
> > side? Perhaps revoving any clips and running you fingers behind to
> > check all
> > surfaces for any crimping?
> >
> > WST
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 9:40 AM
> > Subject: Locking Brake on BN1
> >
> >
> > > Chris-
> > >
> > > Tire (tyre) pressures are fine, no flat spot (although I'm working
> > on
> > > one!), dampers are OK as well. No suspension problems, backing
> > plates
> > > are good and secure.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Bill
> > > On Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:37:49 +1000 "Chris Dimmock"
> > > <cd3000@bigpond.net.au> writes:
> > > > Ok Bill
> > > >
> > > > If the wheel cylinders are both 'free' ie one isn't solid (my
> > first
> > > > guess) -
> > > > then its time to check tyres & shocks.
> > > >
> > > > Is one tyre flat ie lower tyre pressure?
> > > > Is one tyre flat spotted?
> > > > Is one shock leaking or leaked out the fluid?
> > > >
> > > > That would explain why it doesn't lock in the garage - but does
> > on
> > > > the road.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > > ______________________________________
> > > >
> > > > Chris Dimmock
> > > > Sydney Australia
> > > > 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> > > >
> > > > http://www.myaustinhealey.com
> > > > ______________________________________
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "William F Schmidt" <ah100m@juno.com>
> > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 11:20 AM
> > > > Subject: Locking front brake on BN1
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Tonight I swapped the shoes on the left brake, top for
> > bottom.
> > > > Adjusted
> > > > > 'em, went for a ride down the driveway - no difference. Next
> > it's
> > > > shoes
> > > > > left to right although I'd be willing to bet the results will
> > be
> > > > the
> > > > > same.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bill Schmidt
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From "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 15:54:42 -0500
Subject: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
I hope someone turned off the lights before they left...
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From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:57:02 -0400
Subject: NC - Test
Nick
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:08:28 -0400
Subject: positive Generator test
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:15:37 -0700
Subject: ebay BJ8
Anyone know how this car's VIN can be HBJ8L53199? I thought they stopped at
43043.
Bill Katz
Bay Area, CA
'67 BJ8 (42032)
'94 325is
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 20:05:06 -0400
Subject: Update on BN1 brake bleeding
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:25:15 -0400
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 4:54 PM
Subject: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
> Anyone out there...
>
> I hope someone turned off the lights before they left...
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From "bob & bev hatcher" <bandbhatcher at hotmail.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 10:04:43 +1000
Subject: Drum brakes squealing
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 20:15:57 -0700
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
John, I thought you went.
Bob
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 10:43:52 +1000
Subject: RE: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
I would love to tak about Italian cars. In my second career as a motoring
writer I am lucky to test many. Lancias, Alfa Romeos, Maseratis, Ferraris,
Lambos etc all lovely motor cars.
My favourites so far have been a 1952 212 Inter Ferrari with Vignale bodywork
and then a Alfa Sprint Sprint Speciale. The Alfa would have to be the Audrey
Hepburn of Italian cars.
In fact if someone were to offer me a Birdcage Maserati for the BN3/1 I would
just have to say yes.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
ps. It's Winter here and walking from the station this morning it was a chilly
9 degrees C. Cold for here.
-----Original Message-----
From: R.Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 1:16 PM
To: Healeyolic
Cc: C. Cruz; Healey List
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
Since no one's here to tell, let's talk about Italian cars...shhhhhhhhh.
John, I thought you went.
Bob
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:46:14 -0600
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello... small revision
You've got to be kidding - you can afford electricity - you need to move North
where there's light- we can read the newspaper in the little house out back by
sunlight at 10 PM that is if the sulfide and methane don't get you first - wink!
Kind regards
Ed
Healeyolic wrote:
> They are turned back on. Not everyone was lucky enough to be able to go to
> Tahoe.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 4:54 PM
> Subject: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
>
> > Anyone out there...
> >
> > I hope someone turned off the lights before they left...
>
> t.
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:45:30 -0700
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
I have had early Maseratis too. My favorite was an A6G Vignale coupe that I
owned years ago.
I bought my first Lancia when I lived in France in the early sixties. But I
still cry when I see a Lancia Rally dressed in red, white and green colors.
And I still have a 1965 Fiat 1500 OSCA spider.
Bob Denton
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Greetings
>
> I would love to tak about Italian cars. In my second career as a motoring
>writer I am lucky to test many. Lancias, Alfa Romeos, Maseratis, Ferraris,
>Lambos etc all lovely motor cars.
>
> My favourites so far have been a 1952 212 Inter Ferrari with Vignale bodywork
>and then a Alfa Sprint Sprint Speciale. The Alfa would have to be the Audrey
>Hepburn of Italian cars.
>
> In fact if someone were to offer me a Birdcage Maserati for the BN3/1 I would
>just have to say yes.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> ps. It's Winter here and walking from the station this morning it was a
>chilly 9 degrees C. Cold for here.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 1:16 PM
> To: Healeyolic
> Cc: C. Cruz; Healey List
> Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
>
> Since no one's here to tell, let's talk about Italian cars...shhhhhhhhh.
>
> John, I thought you went.
>
> Bob
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 11:52:42 +1000
Subject: RE: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
Regards
Patrick
-----Original Message-----
From: R.Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 2:46 PM
To: Quinn, Patrick
Cc: Healeyolic; C. Cruz; Healey List
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
Having owned many Ferraris and many Alfas in my sixty some-odd-years, I have
many favorites. The little Ferrari Barchetta ranks as numero uno for me. I
currently have a 308GTSiQV and a
rare Alfa 1900C with coachwork by Boano. This coupe is a bit reminiscent of the
Boano "Tophat" coupes made for Ferrari in the early fifties. Mine is my
campaigner for La Carrera
Panamericana (The Mexican Roadrace) that I have run a few times. My best Alfa
was a part of my life when I was too young to realize what I had. It was a 1929
P3 with touring coachwork
by Lepori of Lugano, Switzerland. The car now resides in New Zealand.
I have had early Maseratis too. My favorite was an A6G Vignale coupe that I
owned years ago.
I bought my first Lancia when I lived in France in the early sixties. But I
still cry when I see a Lancia Rally dressed in red, white and green colors.
And I still have a 1965 Fiat 1500 OSCA spider.
Bob Denton
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> Greetings
>
> I would love to tak about Italian cars. In my second career as a motoring
>writer I am lucky to test many. Lancias, Alfa Romeos, Maseratis, Ferraris,
>Lambos etc all lovely motor cars.
>
> My favourites so far have been a 1952 212 Inter Ferrari with Vignale bodywork
>and then a Alfa Sprint Sprint Speciale. The Alfa would have to be the Audrey
>Hepburn of Italian cars.
>
> In fact if someone were to offer me a Birdcage Maserati for the BN3/1 I would
>just have to say yes.
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
>
> 1947 healey Duncan Saloon
> 1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
>
> ps. It's Winter here and walking from the station this morning it was a
>chilly 9 degrees C. Cold for here.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 1:16 PM
> To: Healeyolic
> Cc: C. Cruz; Healey List
> Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
>
> Since no one's here to tell, let's talk about Italian cars...shhhhhhhhh.
>
> John, I thought you went.
>
> Bob
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 20:42:00 -0700
Subject: Paging Peter Hunt
tia,
Jim '62 BT7 Tri Carb
Fern Creek Lodge
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 21:46:28 -0700
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET 2002
Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in California.
over 600 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected
to fill the field at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, for the 25th Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
SATURDAY
The Official British Car Tour To The Sea. Starts at El Camino Park in Palo
Alto - The same place as the Sunday Show. We will be sending cars off
between 9AM and 10AM. Don't be late! We are considering a poker run and a
proper Le Mans start!!! This is a no cost option for people who like to
drive their cars rather than just show them. The event again will probably
end again at Camerons Pub in Half Moon Bay. More details as they are
available.
SUNDAY
The Best All British Car Show In The West. Don't have a show car? Don't
worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods & works-in-progress are
as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great British food, jazz, parts,
literature, toys and gifts and more fun than you'll be able to tolerate!
People's Choice awards in six classes.
Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the park. The American
MGB Association will once again be having their National West Coast
Convention. Cars will be placed on the field by marque, starting at
9:00AM, and the fun goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at
the gate. There is no preregistration. All participants will receive a
commemorative gift. Spectators park and attend free.
El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of University
Avenue, oppisite the Stanford Shopping Center, From 101 take University Ave
west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino
Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El
Camino. Trailer parking is available on-site at the park.
DO NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT PLEASE!
For information call: 310-392-6605 or email: "Britmeet 2002"
<rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 09:09:57 -0400
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
Cc: "C. Cruz" <ahrdstr@hotmail.com>; "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: HELLO...HELlo...Hello...hello...
> Since no one's here to tell, let's talk about Italian cars...shhhhhhhhh.
>
> John, I thought you went.
>
> Bob
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From john lakie <doelakie at yahoo.com>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 13:43:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 tach loop
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From PINNSYSGRP at aol.com
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 16:55:02 EDT
Subject: 50th Anniversary in England
Am curious if anyone is going to England to celebrate the 50th anniversary of
the Healey 100 over there. I had asked my wife some time ago if she wanted to
go to Tahoe or to Wokefield, England to celebrate this event with the Healey
club over there. The answer was an affirmative for England. Didn't matter to
me either way. We are leaving July 24th to get in some sightseeing prior to
the opening of the show on Sunday, July 28th. You can get all of the
particulars by logging onto austin-healey-club.com. Am curious if anyone else
on the list is planning to attend this event.
Thanks
John Downing
'61 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 (Hers)
'50 MG TD
'54 MG TF 1500
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:18:03 +0800
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary in England
I'll be travelling to the UK as well for the week.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 1959
----- Original Message -----
From: <PINNSYSGRP@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 4:55 AM
Subject: 50th Anniversary in England
> Hi all:
>
> Am curious if anyone is going to England to celebrate the 50th anniversary
of
> the Healey 100 over there. I had asked my wife some time ago if she wanted
to
> go to Tahoe or to Wokefield, England to celebrate this event with the
Healey
> club over there. The answer was an affirmative for England. Didn't matter
to
> me either way. We are leaving July 24th to get in some sightseeing prior
to
> the opening of the show on Sunday, July 28th. You can get all of the
> particulars by logging onto austin-healey-club.com. Am curious if anyone
else
> on the list is planning to attend this event.
>
> Thanks
>
> John Downing
> '61 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 (Hers)
> '50 MG TD
> '54 MG TF 1500
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 20:56:25 EDT
Subject: Link to Healeys At Montreal Grand Prix
Rick
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From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
From: Bill Schmidt <ah100m@juno.com>
To: MrFinespanner@prodigy.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 21:10:47 EDT
Subject: Re: 50th Anniversary in England
******************************************************************************
********************
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 1966 Mustang GT
1964 Jaguar MK2 3.4 1966 Mustang Convertible
1959 AH Frogeye Sprite (Cindy's)
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 03:24:33 +0000
Subject: Re: generator testing
Dennis:
When Pontius was a pilot and I was being taught rotating electrical
equipment theory I seem to remember that the way to test a D.C. generator is
by motoring it. If you have a postive ground Healey, connect a battery
positive side to the frame of the generator. Then jumper the generator
'Field' and 'Output' terminals together and make a momentary contact to them
with the negative terminal of the battery.
There will be spark and the generator will start to 'motor' if it okay.
(watch for the torque which will try to rotate the generator). If it starts
to 'motor' you can then make the negative battery contact permanent and the
generator will continue to 'motor'.
If your generator 'motors' it is probably fine. A generator will not
provide output unless the 'Field' winding is provided with current - that's
the job of the regulator - I suspect your descibed test is being carried out
with on unenergized field winding.
Hopes this helps
Regards Gary BN1
________________________________________________________________________
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: generator testing
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:44:32 -0400
>Listers:
I am at the point in my Healey saga where I would like to check the
performance of my generator. I have mounted the generator on a stand and
hooked an old washing machine motor to it via a belt. I plug in the electric
motor and drive the generator (in the proper direction) . set my multi meter
to 20 D.C. volts and the meter reads 0.37 - 0.39 volts. I have taken the
generator apart and cleaned the inside and the armatures with brake cleaner,
fine steel wool and fine sand paper, being very careful not to damage any of
the windings,and the volt meter reads the same.
The car has been in storage for 25 years. Am I not testing correctly ?
or should I just take this to a professional.
Thanks in advance
Dennis Broughel Bn-4....45281 (longbridge)
Bn-4....30836 parts car
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 19:40:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 tach loop
The metal U fits through the ignition wire loop (white
wire) over the plastic thingy and then fits onto the
back of the tach. It all goes together like a puzzle,
so it's actually pretty hard to screw it up. If it
doesn't fit well on the back of the tach, then you
have some of the pieces fitted together wrong. Just
play around with it until it all fits up properly.
BTW, you may have to reverse the ingoing and out going
ends of the wire on the ignition wire loop (white
wire) if your tach doesn't work after you hook it up.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- john lakie <doelakie@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Help!!! About a year ago I decided to refinish the
> dash on my 65 BJ8,(and the rest of the interior)and
> now I'm in the process of reassembling things. I
> did
> a pretty good job of labelling wires and cables but
> have run into a problem with the loop on the
> electronic tach. I removed the loop, leaving it
> attached to the nylon fitting, then put back the
> metal
> "u" shaped thing to the tach using the "knurled"??
> round nut. HOW DO I RE-ATTACH THE LOOP? What
> "position" is it mounted in?
> It's probably difficult to describe, but I would
> greatly appreciate an attempt at it - (anyone with a
> picture?)
> thanks in advance,
> John Lakie,
> 65 BJ8
> Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 1:34:41 -0400
Subject: San Diego AH Club wins in Tahoe !
Sandy Leon
5th place Bugeye
Udo & Gisela Putzke
1st place BT7 tricarb
Ron Martin
5th place BT7 tricarb
Erik Hoopengardner
1st place 100M
Jim Albeck
7th place BJ8
Ken Derringer
2nd place modified
Ron & Debbie Rader
3rd place Observation rallye
Neil Tabachki
BN ?
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From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 01:10:19 -0700
Subject: Re: San Diego AH Club wins in Tahoe !
A round of Mt. Dew and Budweiser (mixed together in a paper cup, who knew)
for all! (Ask Udo.)
>From your new friend and honorary member here in the Eastern Sierras,
Jim, '62 ('61?) BT7 TriCarb, Honorary SDAHC Member with Hat to Prove It
----- Original Message -----
From: <lgalper1@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 10:34 PM
Subject: San Diego AH Club wins in Tahoe !
> There were 518 cars on the field Monday.
> Congrats to San Diego Club Members:
> Ron Davies
> 4th place modified
>
> Sandy Leon
> 5th place Bugeye
>
> Udo & Gisela Putzke
> 1st place BT7 tricarb
>
> Ron Martin
> 5th place BT7 tricarb
>
> Erik Hoopengardner
> 1st place 100M
>
> Jim Albeck
> 7th place BJ8
>
> Ken Derringer
> 2nd place modified
>
> Ron & Debbie Rader
> 3rd place Observation rallye
>
> Neil Tabachki
> BN ?
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 09:44:20 EDT
Subject: Open Roads 2002 Quick Recap
Check in to the OR 2002 event was also smooth. Received our package
including itinerary, event tickets, etc., and everything was flawless. The
event was very well organized from the start.
Bought Bill Emerson's new Healey book and some regalia right away, then went
to the hotel's back parking lot. Unbelievable! Had to be over 400 Healeys
parked there...literally all shapes, sizes and colors. Spent about two hours
gawking at the cars. Peter and Ann Hunt's "Around-the-World" car was there
and Clive Randall's 1948 Westland-Healey, along with other early Healeys,
Sprites, Jensen-Healeys, Hundreds, Hundred-Sixes, 3000's, and, even three
Healey boats. Talk about drool!
Went to the hotel bar and spotted a group of weather-beaten/tired Healey
folks. Turned out to be part of the overseas (US 50) contingent (Clive
Randall, Julian Bowen, Pam Lindh and Lawrence McDowell) trying to quench
their thirst after crossing Nevada. We shared some champagne and some really
cool stories from their trip to Tahoe. [Lawrence had someone in the eastern
U.S. (at a stop light) ask him why his steering wheel was on the right side
of the car...He told them, "Because, if it was on the other side, I wouldn't
be able to reach it!"]
Monday morning we watched the cars depart from the hotel parking lot for the
"Popular Choice" and "Concours" competition at the local "Middle School".
The departure was a once-in-a-lifetime show in itself.
At the school, they were organized by class and filled the athletic oval
field, with some overflow into the parking area. Over 500 cars were on
display. There were about 150 BJ8s...split into two 75-car groups (for
handling)...lots of BN1s, BN2s, 1000-6s and 3000s...two 100-S models, a
smattering of early Healeys and the three Healey boats.
Some ten or 15 Concours entries were lined up with the judges pouring over
them for hours. They looked at every nut, bolt and detail of each car.
Judges included Roger Moment, Richard Gordon, Richard Chrysler, Reid Trummel,
etc. They spent a lot of time pouring over Blair Harbor's 138031 (First
Production BN-1) car.
Tuesday brought two rally competitions, one TSD (Time, Speed and Distance)
and one Observation rally with some trick questions. I suspect he resale
value of Healeys dropped significantly around Lake Tahoe. You couldn't spit
without hitting a Healey, they were everywhere...how could they possibly be
considered rare?
For Tuesday evening's double supper seating around the hotel pool they
displayed Roger Moment's 100, Richard Gordon's 100 and Fred Hunter(?)'s 100-S
(Called "Millie", one of the four pre-production cars that became the first
100-S models, she participated in several Mile Miglias, hence the name) on
the lawn around the pool.
The awards program after supper announced the winners of the "Popular Choice"
voting and the results of the Concours judging, followed by an auction.
There were up to seven trophies in each class and I can't remember all the
results...I'm sure an official list will be published soon. I recall Peter
and Ann Hunt's car was overall Peoples Choice and Blair Harbor's first
production Hundred was second choice. There were several Gold, Silver and
Bronze Concours winners. They announced that they couldn't finish judging
the first production Hundred until they did some more research, but would
announce the results within a couple of weeks.
We had to leave early Wednesday (yesterday) morning just as the Autocross
event was starting up at the local airport. Hopefully, someone else will
post their observations after tonight's award banquet.
The event was really well organized. The organizers and the Horizon Resort
deserve a huge pat on the back for a job well done.
There will be an official DVD or video tape that can be ordered from John
Trifari (john4@attbi.com).
(Also, I highly recommend Bill Emerson's new book!)
Steve Mickelson
Really inspired to get my Healey going.
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 10:02:34 -0400
Subject: Conclave 2003 Web Site Up
Just as Open Roads is winding down the Capital Area Austin Healey
Club is ramping up for Conclave 2003: A Capital Experience June
25-30! We are planning many special opportunities unique to the
Washington, DC Area in addition to the regular Conclave events.
For up-to-date information and to download a registration form, visit
Conclave 2003 on the Web at http://www.capitalhealeys.org.
DC in 2003!
Herman Farrer
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 11:11:22 -0300
Subject: Sticky Valve
Dean
BJ8
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 12:59:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Sticky Valve
> I am ready to put my BJ8 on the road after 3 yrs in restoration. But I
> have a valve that is sticking intermittently. Is there anything I can
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 14:17:31 -0400
Subject: need wheels
Please reply off list
Thanks,
Carroll Phillips Top Down in NY state
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From "Dean" <dht at erols.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 14:50:12 -0300
Subject: Re: Sticky Valve
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: <alan@andysnet.net>
To: <dht@erols.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Sticky Valve
> Try Marvel Mystery Oil. Can you tell which valve is sticking? If not,
squirt
> Marvel Mystery Oil into all cylinders. This oil is really great for sticky
> valves.
>
> > I am ready to put my BJ8 on the road after 3 yrs in restoration. But I
> > have a valve that is sticking intermittently. Is there anything I can
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 15:48:27 EDT
Subject: Open Roads 2002 Quick Recap Addendum
Forgot to mention that there were quite a few modified Healeys, both Sprites
and Big Healeys with V-6s and V-8s...some definitely qualified as Nasty Boys.
I counted, at least, (63) BN-1s and BN-2s at the Monday show. I got the
serial numbers/engine numbers/batch and body numbers from all that I could to
add to my little unofficial registry.
The Healey family was well represented and Gerry Coker was there. Gerry
donated a couple of reduced and colored drawings for the auction. One was a
red Sprite and the other was a green Hundred. They went for something on the
order of $800-$950...way out of my league. They even auctioned off the
banner that was strung out over U.S. Highway 50 in front of the Horizon
Hotel...the largest banner ever hung there...think it went to Gary
Lownsdale...somewhere between $150 and $600...it was kind of confusing. Not
sure what one would do with it...it looked to be about 100' long!
There were several "Original Owner" entries, including George Keens' 1954
(was 39,000-mile, will be 40,000-mile,) BN-1 (that won second place in the
people's choice voting in the original owners class).
George is on the order of 84 years old and drove his car from San Pedro to
pick his son (David, from Texas) up at the (LAX?) airport, then they headed
north with David driving and George navigating. I think they did a caravan
with Sharon Tanihara ("Healeygal" that spent $87 to get people edited out of
a picture of her Healey in front of the Queen Mary) and a friend of hers from
the San Diego club.
We went up on the Gondola Tram near Heavenly Valley ski resort and met a
couple that owned a 1954 BN-1 that knew nothing about the Open Roads event
but just happened to be vacationing at Lake Tahoe and stumbled on the show.
They don't belong to a club and had never submitted their serial numbers to
any of the registries, so, essentially, I "found" another Healey.
Met one couple in the parking lot and, while he was telling me how great
their Healey was, she was telling my wife that they rarely got from point A
to point B without a breakdown...that the car had been towed farther than it
had ever been driven...she packs a folding chair, a book, a blanket and a
small ice chest to keep herself busy and comfortable while he crawls under
the car. She said that they almost always broke down out of cell phone
range and had to get a passerby to call the tow truck for them.
Another couple were towing a Sprite on a trailer and the trailer broke down
in the Midwest. They searched high and low for a rental trailer, but the
closest they came was a stock trailer with no way to secure the car inside.
They ended up leaving the Sprite and coming to Tahoe without it.
One resourceful guy participated in one of the rallies with his car on a
trailer...don't know why, but I think he actually placed in the top 10!
All I can remember for now.
Hope my ramblings are informative for those that were unable to attend.
Steve Mickelson
Still fired up
What a great show!
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 13:50:50 -0700
Subject: Keep your eyes up!
A 36-year-old woman should have been doing that Thursday when a cow
strayed from a hillside pasture to the top of a tunnel entrance and
then fell onto her Austin.
The woman was hospitalized with minor chest and foot injuries. Her
husband, in the passenger seat, was unharmed. The cow died after being
hit when it fell 15 feet just as the car was leaving the tunnel.
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 17:27:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Open Roads 2002 Quick Recap Addendum
Thanks for the reports from Tahoe. Makes good reading for us poor souls who
couldn't make the trip.
Jim
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:14:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Open Roads 2002 Quick Recap Addendum
> We went up on the Gondola Tram near Heavenly Valley ski resort and met a
> couple that owned a 1954 BN-1 that knew nothing about the Open Roads event
> but just happened to be vacationing at Lake Tahoe and stumbled on the show.
>
> They don't belong to a club and had never submitted their serial numbers to
>
> any of the registries, so, essentially, I "found" another Healey.
>
>
After driving in the "Around the Lake" tour up to Incline Village and going
up the the Squaw Valley summit camp in the gondola, Mary and I drove up to
Truckee for lunch. In the front of a mechanic's shop on the mainstreet was a
bugeye in serious need of adoption.
This event has been sensational and the organizers deserve several rounds of
applause. Seeing hundreds of cars driving around the lake today in a line
today was the best!
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:17:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Keep your eyes up!
> A 36-year-old woman should have been doing that Thursday when a cow
> strayed from a hillside pasture to the top of a tunnel entrance and
> then fell onto her Austin.
>
> The woman was hospitalized with minor chest and foot injuries. Her
> husband, in the passenger seat, was unharmed. The cow died after being
> hit when it fell 15 feet just as the car was leaving the tunnel.
>
>
Beef fresh off the grill!
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:22:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Open Roads 2002 Quick Recap Addendum
I met Bic Healey in line at the bar, Michael Oritt and Gary Anderson in the
elevator, Reid Trummel at the Concours judging area and about a hundred
Healey folks, including several from the mailing list, just here and there.
I really feel privileged to have attended the first two days and wish I could
have stayed for the rest. Hope someone will give us a recap of the remainder.
Hope all is well with you and your two Hundreds.
Regards.
Steve
In a message dated 6/27/02 2:30:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bluechipracing@snet.net writes:
<< Hi Steve:
Thanks for the reports from Tahoe. Makes good reading for us poor souls who
couldn't make the trip.
Jim >>
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:53:12 EDT
Subject: sticky valve
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From "Rich VanBuskirk" <rwvanbuskirk at ucdavis.edu>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 16:38:44 -0700
Subject: Serial number registration
As a newcomer to the list I wanted to say a quick hello and let everyone
know that I'm about to embark upon the restoration of a 1966 BJ-8. I've
been a member of the Land Rover Owners listserve in the past, and I'm glad
to discover that there's an equally knowledgeable and enthusiastic community
out there for Healey owners. I'm sure that I'll be turning to the list
frequently in the years to come.
I am wondering, though, about the registries of Healey serial numbers. An
earlier post mentioned this and made me think that it might be interesting
to get my car listed. Can anyone give me some more info on this process and
what I might expect to learn about my car.
Thanks,
Rich
-----------------------------------------------------
Richard VanBuskirk, Ph.D.
NPB - Animal Communication Lab
University of California
One Shields Avenue
Davis, CA 95616
-----------------------------------------------------
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From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:04:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey International at Lake Tahoe
<< As a big Healey owner as well as a little Healey owner, I subscribe to the
Healey list. Over the last several days we've been treated to a wonderful
daily report from Michael Oritt describing his travels from Ocean City, MD to
Tahoe in his 100 LeMans, complete with references to William Least Heat Moon
and John Steinbeck. >>
Michael's complete writing on the Routr 50 Tour to Tahoe have been posted to
http://members.aol.com/route501
Ann Hunt and Clive Randall both from Scotland made the trip with Michael and
many others. Ann and Clive have there version of the trip at
http://www.wasterton.com
and
http://www.8000miles.com
Bob, also along for the ride
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:25:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey International at Lake Tahoe
> Bob, also along for the ride
>
>
Make that "Bob Brown who, along with Bob McElwee, put the Highway 50 tour
together". Hats off to you guys--you did a wonderful job.
Michael Oritt
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From <Joe at Farley.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 18:29:41 -0700
Subject: Tahoe Pics (44)
I have posted my pics (mainly from the Monday Car Show)
but a few from the Horizon Parking lot and a couple from
the Observation Rally.
Enjoy.
BTW these pics are 25% resolution and size so they will
download at reasonable rates on the net. Still around
200k to 500k per pic. If anyone would like a specific
pic at full resolution (2540x1900) or around 2meg per pic
let me know and I will be glad to email (assuming your
email provider will allow attachments that large).
http://blackwolfprod.com/tahoe2002/
=============================================
Joe@Farley.net
'66 BJ8
'77 C77/R @ DVO
NIL DESPERANDVM ET ILLIGITIMVM CABERVNDON EL MONDO
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From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 21:25:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Serial number registration
>I am wondering, though, about the registries of Healey serial
>numbers. An earlier post mentioned this and made me think that it might be
>interesting to get my car listed. Can anyone give me some more info on
>this process and what I might expect to learn about my car.
Hi Rich,
You can email the following information to the BJ8 registry:
Chassis Number (VIN/Car Number)
Owners Name
City, State
Also, any additional details that you have on your car's construction (body,
engine numbers, etc.) would also be welcomed. Send it to:
Steve Byers
135 Craven Drive
Havelock, NC 28532
(252) 447-8812 home
(252) 464-5648 work
byers@cconnect.net
Good luck on your restoration!
GW
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 02:22:05 EDT
Subject: Tahoe International Finale
My wife Mary arrived late Wednesday and we are departing tomorrow, spending
the night in Columbia, CA, then heading over to the Monterey area and
continuing down the coast. My son and daughter live in Los Angeles and we
will get there on Tuesday.
I hope that many of you will consider coming to Washington, DC next summer
for Conclave 2003--my club, the Capital Area Austin-Healey Club, is throwing
it and we guarantee a great time.
I'm tired from a full day and can't stopped smiling.
More in a few days....
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:28:45 +0200
Subject: Healey 50
I will be attending with 2 cars, my good faithful BJ8 (clicking sound did
not come back yet), which I am driving to Belgium today from Switzerland
(some 500 miles).
And as second car the 1954 Healey Coupe, which is currently in the end of
the restoration (and will hopefully be finished on time for the concours).
Hope to see a lot of you there.
It would certainly be fun to thank all of the listers in a more personal way
for this great support.
Bruno Verstraete
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:32:34 +0200
Subject: Healey 100 Synchro Mesh
I am currently looking for a replacement Synchro mesh for my Healey 100 BN1,
May 1954.
Do you need to buy an entire gearbox or are there any parts suppliers that
sell replacement ones for the early Healeys.
Appreciate all help
Thanks in advance,
Bruno Verstraete
Zurich (Switzerland)
Car in Belgium
Bruno Verstraete
Catey Asset Management
GSM : +32 486 07 10 50
Tel : +41 1 283 18 88
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
www.catey.com <http://www.catey.com/>
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:33:13 +0800
Subject: Re: Healey 100 Synchro Mesh
I don't profess to have much knowledge on BN1's but SC Parts list
'Synchroniser cone' and 'Inner hub synchroniser' for the BN1 as part numbers
SC3901 and SC3927.
Their email is enquiries@scparts.co.uk and the web page is www.scparts.co.uk
Regards from OZ
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
3000 Mk 1 1959
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 4:32 PM
Subject: Healey 100 Synchro Mesh
> Hi Listers,
>
> I am currently looking for a replacement Synchro mesh for my Healey 100
BN1,
> May 1954.
> Do you need to buy an entire gearbox or are there any parts suppliers that
> sell replacement ones for the early Healeys.
>
> Appreciate all help
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> Zurich (Switzerland)
> Car in Belgium
>
>
>
> Bruno Verstraete
> Catey Asset Management
> GSM : +32 486 07 10 50
> Tel : +41 1 283 18 88
> bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
> www.catey.com <http://www.catey.com/>
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 06:52:02 -0700
Subject: need car looked at
Ronald Davies
The OTHER Ron Davies :-)
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:21:16 -0400
Subject: wire wheels available
Bill Eggert
'67 BJ8
Annapolis
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From "Dwight Patten" <patten at charter.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:52:31 -0400
Subject: Radio install on a BJ8
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From "Dave Lee" <dlee at usfamily.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:12:33 -0500
Subject: Brake Servo
Dave Lee
1966 BJ-8
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:28:38 -0500
Subject: Sticky valve
One other thing you can do as a regular treatment is about every 2nd or 3rd
tank of gas add 4oz of Marvel Mystery Oil per 10 gal of gas. It helps
lubricate the whole upper end of the engine as well as keeps the fuel
system cleaned out.
God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 11:31:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Radio install on a BJ8
You didn't say what type or manufacturer's of radio you have there, so I'll
take a few guesses.
First of all, connecting the radio's main DC feed to the "N colored wire
will feed it +12 V (on your modified car) and therefore it should be able to
play with the ignition key Off. However, from your note, it seems that the
vendor suggests wiring your radio so that the ignition key is ON in order to
play the radio, or perhaps it's some type of "accessory" position, where the
ignition/starter circuit is off, but the radio can be fed +12 V so that it
plays even when the engine isn't running.
Moreover, perhaps the yellow wire that goes directly to the fuses and
battery is meant to maintain the radio's memory, if it has one. You may want
to simply connect the red and yellow wires together and then wire that combo
to the N connector at 67 on the diagram, so that it's fused (although
there's probably another fuse with the radio).
That's my suggestion given without seeing what you have, or a schematic or
wiring diagram for your radio. Does the vendor's )literature or installation
instructions indicate why there are two wires (as well as ground)?
== Alex in Maine, AI2Q
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Dwight Patten
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 10:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Radio install on a BJ8
Forgive the somewhat ignorant question but, I need some advise on the
install of a radio/ cassette player in my NEGATIVE ground BJ8. From the
wiring diagram I see that the radio was originally connected to a brown wire
(noted as "n" in the color code). However, the radio I am installing shows
two wires to be connected: a red wire to ignition switch and a yellow wire
direct to fuses and battery. Which should be connected to the brown? The
red or the yellow? I would guess that the red one would be but, I am not
sure. I don't want to drain the battery and of course there is no ACC
position on a Healey switch. There seems to be an extra spade connection to
the lower right of the ignition switch for an option called the "cigar
lighter". Any helped much appreciated. The good news is that I am all
negative ground now and no isolation required from the chassis.
dp
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 08:36:48 -0700
Subject: Disc wheel brake drums--trade desired
Please contact me offline. I may post this again next week to catch more
returnees.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 08:43:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Servo
In general, apple hydralics does excellent work. I
believe their servos are rebuilt with brass sleeves,
which will make that servo last a heck of alot longer.
People on the list have also had good experiences with
Power Brake Exchange in San Jose California at about
half the cost of Apple. I don't know if they do
resleeving like apple - if they don't I would suggest
going with Apple.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave Lee <dlee@usfamily.net> wrote:
> I fear I'm in line for some work on the brake servo
> of my 1966 BJ-8. Would
> appreciate any brake servo overhaul experience
> listers have had with Apple
> Hydraulics. After reading good things here on the
> list about Worldwide Auto
> Parts in Madison, WI., I checked with them, but they
> don't do servos.
>
> Dave Lee
> 1966 BJ-8
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Austin Healey <ah62bn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 09:11:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Healey road test book on Ebay
Now on Ebay: a brand new 1994 paperback book by
Transport Source Books containing a compendium of
reprinted road tests of the Austin Healey 3000 from
1959 to 1984. Compiled by Trevor Alder. 82 pages.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840187453&ssPageName=ADME:B:LC:US:1
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 12:38:31 -0400
Subject: Re: wire wheels available
Bob Johnson
> Purchasing new wheels in @ August. Have set of wire wheels w/knockoffs
currently on car to sell. More than likely were original equipment.
Excellent shape. Photo available. Offers?
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 13:04:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Radio install on a BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Patten" <patten@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: Radio install on a BJ8
> Forgive the somewhat ignorant question but, I need some advise on the
> install of a radio/ cassette player in my NEGATIVE ground BJ8. From the
> wiring diagram I see that the radio was originally connected to a brown
wire
> (noted as "n" in the color code). However, the radio I am installing
shows
> two wires to be connected: a red wire to ignition switch and a yellow wire
> direct to fuses and battery. Which should be connected to the brown? The
> red or the yellow? I would guess that the red one would be but, I am not
> sure. I don't want to drain the battery and of course there is no ACC
> position on a Healey switch. There seems to be an extra spade connection
to
> the lower right of the ignition switch for an option called the "cigar
> lighter". Any helped much appreciated. The good news is that I am all
> negative ground now and no isolation required from the chassis.
> dp
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 14:30:34 -0400
Subject: Re: wire wheels available
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: <CAACH@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: wire wheels available
> How many spokes is the *right* number of spokes for a chrome wheel on a 66
> 3000?
>
> Bob Johnson
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:11:53 +0100
Subject: Using a timing strobe - understanding the workshop manual specs
Keen to draw some meaningful conclusions from my new digital
singing-and-dancing timing strobe, I find that the stroboscopic timing
at 600rpm is 15 deg BTDC - spot on according to the workshop manual.
Dwell is coming up at 34 degrees, also fine (yes, I remembered to do the
(100% - dwell%) conversion for my positive earth car!).
However, I'm not sure how to interpret or use the other figures given in
the manual. There are several figures (at different rpm) under the
heading 'decelerating check'. Are these instantaneous readings as the
revs are dying - ie no throttle and no load? Impossible to measure of
course. Or the reading after the revs have been higher and allowed to
decay to, and rest at, the rpm in question? And are these the readings
one should read off a strobe with an advance dial? I find I'm seeing
much more advance than these figures suggest (eg 35 deg at 2000 rpm),
but more than anything I suspect my interpretation. Should I subtract
the vacuum advance degrees for these measurements, or disconnect the
vacuum pipe?
Grateful as ever for any help in this area. Got a few clues from the
archive, but not enough to shut me up!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 13:28:34 -0700
Subject: VIN number change
Thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten me.
Ron
Ronald Davies, DDS
Anesthesiology for Dentistry
www.DentalAnesthesia.com
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 16:45:03 -0500
Subject: Re: VIN number change
rdavies wrote:
> I'm interested in a BJ8 for sale in Texas. The owner just informed me that
> the prior 2nd owner bought the car in the midwest and moved to Florida. The
> current owner was told by the party he bought the car from that the Florida
> owner was made to change the VIN number to reflect the Florida registration,
> so that now the VIN number starts with FL, then 2 different digits, and the
> rest of the VIN number is the same. Has anyone ever heard of something like
> this? Is this a big red flag? Seems very strange, but the owner has been
> very up front with me.
>
> Thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten me.
> Ron
>
> Ronald Davies, DDS
> Anesthesiology for Dentistry
> www.DentalAnesthesia.com
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 15:17:13 -0600
Subject: RE: wire wheels available
72-spoke wheels are a common upgrade. They are obviously stronger,
and are available in wider versions. The 5.5" width is a good one for
185/70 tires. This setup will definitely provide more cornering grip.
For most people, one of these two combos is probably best.
Personally, I don't drive real hard, and prefer the more original appearance
of the 60-spoke. However, appearance is a matter of opinion, and many
certainly prefer the extra strength and performance of the 72-spoke combo.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 Tricarb
***********************************
How many spokes is the *right* number of spokes for a chrome wheel on a 66
3000?
Bob Johnson
> Purchasing new wheels in @ August. Have set of wire wheels w/knockoffs
currently on car to sell. More than likely were original equipment.
Excellent shape. Photo available. Offers?
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 17:15:28 -0400
Subject: Tahoe
What a great job, IMHO
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 14:53:02 -0700
Subject: BJ8 for sale in Tahoe
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 15:27:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: seat rail studs
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 19:18:17 EDT
Subject: Open Roads 2002 at Tahoe
Imagine a Popular Car Show with 524 Healeys of all types and models gathered
on a football field with a back drop of snow capped ski mountains. Big
Healeys, little Healeys, Nash Healeys, Jensen Healeys, Sliverstone Healeys,
Westland Healeys, modified Healeys, concours Healeys, driver Healeys. A
technical TSD rallye and a fun observation rallye; hours of auto cross and
1/4 mile drag raucous Healey exhaust symphonics and tire squeal; funkahana
fun and laughter; Healey golf tournament; around the lake tour and Squaw
Valley High Camp visit; biggest ever arts & crafts and photography show;
informative technical sessions; RC races and pinewood derby; banquets and
awards; a terrific closing slide-to-music show of our fun-filled week; and of
course blackjack and slots.
The result of all this was five days of highly effective Healey int
oxication!!!!
Bev and I enjoyed meeting and talking to so many of you. Hope all of you
who attended had as much fun as we did.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 16:36:17 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 for sale in Tahoe
rdavies wrote:
> Hi gang,
> Does anyone remember or have any info about the blue BJ8 for sale on the
> memo board at Tahoe? I'm still in the market for a car.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Ronald Davies, DDS
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 18:38:32 -0500
Subject: NOT HEALEY RELATED DELETE NOW IF YOU WANT TO.
I'm having a Senior Day. For the life of me I can't figure out how to wire a
simple GE timer to control an outside "street light" type fixture that I bought
my wife for her birthday.
Since I can't post a picture, I will send via e-mail a picture of the
"workings" of the timer to all who respond. Have mercy on an Old Senior
Citizen who is having thought processing problems. To think I once was a whiz
at this stuff.
Don
BN7
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 17:59:43 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: BJ8 to evaluate
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 07:12:52 -0700
From: "rdavies" <rdavies@cox.net>
Subject: BJ8 to evaluate
Can anyone recommend someone for me to contact to check out a BJ8 for sale
in Colleyville, just west of DFW airport?
Thanks so much,
Ronald Davies
The OTHER Ron Davies :-)
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:26:22 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 for sale in Tahoe
> Does anyone remember or have any info about the blue BJ8 for sale on the
> memo board at Tahoe? I'm still in the market for a car.
>
Ron,
The car is owned by Len Martin from Post Falls, Idaho. I thought he was
listed in one of the national club's directories, but I just checked and
don't see it. A friend of mine bought a very similar car that Len had
restored and brought to the Grants Pass, Oregon meet last year. He does very
nice work. I'll try harder to lacate his phone number and send it to you.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
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From IanN191650 at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:53:46 EDT
Subject: Open Road 2002 Photos
http://hometown.aol.com/iann191650/healey_photos.htm
Photos:
Car Show Panorama (File Size +800k)
Rally Car
Westlake
Nash
100/4 Concours Entry
Healey / Coker Autograph Session
Misc Personal Healey Photos
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:07:01 -0500
Subject: Healey Guys Helping Me Out
Don
BN7
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 21:11:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Guys Helping Me Out
How many of us came up with the same answer?
Mark "Sparky"
Nashville BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 8:07 PM
Subject: Healey Guys Helping Me Out
Wow! In one hour I had nine guys willing to help. Thanks to all of you. I
sent all a picture.
Don
BN7
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From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:21:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Open Road 2002 Photos
John
BN4 (Project for sale)
BN7 (In transit)
>From: IanN191650@aol.com
>Reply-To: IanN191650@aol.com
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>CC: IanN191650@aol.com
>Subject: Open Road 2002 Photos
>Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 20:53:46 EDT
>
>Here is my contribution to the photo coverage of Open Roads 2002.
>
>http://hometown.aol.com/iann191650/healey_photos.htm
>
>Photos:
>Car Show Panorama (File Size +800k)
>Rally Car
>Westlake
>Nash
>100/4 Concours Entry
>Healey / Coker Autograph Session
>Misc Personal Healey Photos
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 23:42:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe International Finale
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> My wife Mary arrived late Wednesday and we are departing tomorrow, spending
> the night in Columbia, CA, then heading over to the Monterey area and
> continuing down the coast. My son and daughter live in Los Angeles and we
> will get there on Tuesday.
>
> Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 08:50:50 -0600
Subject: Tahoe - hats
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 09:53:49 -0500
Subject: need car looked at
Jackie:
This an interesting issue. Points for thought:
1. If a BJ8 is taken to a name restorer and it is completely rebuilt,
including a new chassis and some hard to find used parts from a second
donor car, is it a restored car? Or is it a car that is totaled out and
"re-manfactured"?
2. Typically, states issue a remanufactured title when the cost of repairs
following an accident exceeds the value of replacing the car. Fifteen to
thirty years ago, these cars were worth $500 to $3000. It would not take
much for an insurance company to claim "total" and write a check instead of
permitting repairs. I paid $750 for '61 BT7 in 1968. My brother bought a
BJ8 for $2,500 in 1973.
3. If an engine is switched from one car to another is the surviving car
remanufactured because one car is made from two? It would not surprise me
if 90% of the existing AHs have parts from donor cars. Its like a blood
transfusion to keep the marque alive!
4 The cost of restoring almost any old car is more than it will be worth
when completed. What does that mean regarding the 'cost of repair test'?
5. If the car has been in a serious wreck and had the right front
suspension of a donor car cloned onto it, why is that repair treated
differently than installing a new chassis under an old body. What if the
front end is rebuilt using aftermarket parts instead of original parts from
a donor car?
6. Is the test tempered by the type of garage that repairs the car? If a
name restoration shop fixes the car and uses some hard to find (or more
desirable) donor car parts, is that a 'restoration ' while if a local gas
station does the work its a 'remanufacture'?
It seems to me that remanufatured titles have their place for modern cars
and unsuspecting consumers but seeing a remanufactured title with an LBC
only alerts the buyer to look the car over carefully and research the
repairs that have been effected.
Unless you are buying a concours car with a pristine provenance, an LBC
will likely be more than one car put together.
Best regards,
Jim
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From "joe levitch" <joe_lev at msn.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 10:42:53 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 for sale in Tahoe
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 15:25:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe
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From "James Leaverton" <jamesleaverton at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 14:07:52 -0700
Subject: Healey Service in the San Jose - Bay area
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 17:32:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Service in the San Jose - Bay area
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 18:23:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Open Roads 2002 Quick Recap Addendum
<< One resourceful guy participated in one of the rallies with his car on a
trailer...don't know why, but I think he actually placed in the top 10!
The story was that he broke down between the first and second check point,
hitched a ride back to the hotel, picked up his trailer, got the car, and
then, being of the Press On Regardless school, finished the rally with his
car on the trailer. They decided that since the car had started and
finished, and passed all checkpoints, it was still eligible for awards.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 18:29:55 EDT
Subject: Tahoe pix of Healey Little S
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 18:59:23 EDT
Subject: Re: seat rail studs
<< My seat rails and sliders have a few broken studs 1
on one rail and 2 on another. >>
I recall that when my BN7 was restored, a friend helped me out by drilling
out the old stud fragments, then just slotted in some bolts of the correct
size and welded them in. (He may have ground the heads down a bit to allow
slider clearance.)
Cheers
Gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:10:24 EDT
Subject: Re: need car looked at
<< It seems to me that remanufatured titles have their place for modern cars
and unsuspecting consumers but seeing a remanufactured title with an LBC
only alerts the buyer to look the car over carefully and research the
repairs that have been effected.
Unless you are buying a concours car with a pristine provenance, an LBC
will likely be more than one car put together. >>
All interesting questions -- I think the bottom line is that when buying a
Healey, one should always be very careful to check for evidence of serious
frame damage and a salvage title would be a clue to be very, very careful.
Typical tests include checking that the main frame members are square and
parallel, and that the front frame supports don't show evidence of damage or
poor repair.
We recently discussed the question of donor frames in Concours. The
conclusion was that if an original Healey frame, or one of the new frames
manufactured to original specs was used, there would be no per se deduction.
On a concours car, if a Jule frame is used, because its appearance differs
significantly from original, there is a deduction. However, it's worth noting
that the developers of the Jule frame claim that their version is actually
superior to the original frames, with significantly more torsion resistance.
Incidentally, I've never found in watching auctions that there is any premium
for Healeys with "matching numbers" with the exception of cars claimed to be
original factory 100Ms or 100Ss.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:16:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey Service in the San Jose - Bay area
<< I'm experiencing heating problems with my BN7 and I haven't been able to
sort
it out myself. I live in the San Jose California area and am looking for a
reference to a good healey garage/mechanic in the area to resolve the problem.
Regards
Jim L >>
Couple of possibilities -- Closest good shop is O'Connor Classics in Santa
Clara, but their one mechanic gets booked up way ahead of time. The Engine
Room in Santa Cruz specializes in Morgans, but does Healeys and has been
there a long time, with a good reputation. British Car Specialists in
Stockton is good, of course, but may be a little out of your way. Lilves
Racing in Corte Madera is a home-based operation, and specializes in British
car race tuning, but is good, though a little out of the way. Also, I have a
good friend who is an exceptional Healey mechanic and does some freelance
work on smaller jobs that can be completed in your garage if you draw a blank
otherwise.
If anyone else knows any good British car mechanics San Francisco and south,
please post the info to the web, or let me know so I can check them out.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
British Car Magazine
Los Altos, CA
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:17:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey International at Lake Tahoe
<< Ann Hunt and Clive Randall both from Scotland made the trip with Michael
and
many others. Ann and Clive have there version of the trip at
http://www.wasterton.com
and >>
That should have been www.Easterton.Com
Cheers
Gary
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From Daniel Sherman <dsherm at mindspring.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 20:10:57 -0400
Subject: Re: need car looked at
I know in PA if a car is considered totaled by the insurance company
it is sold at auction for salvage. Then the buyer has the right to
transfer title of the car or get a junk certificate. Not if they get a
junk certificate and then later decide to repair the car for any
reason they can get a reconstructed title. Or perhaps transfer title
to another state which might remove the remanufactured part (unknown
if that will work or not).
>
>2. Typically, states issue a remanufactured title when the cost of repairs
>following an accident exceeds the value of replacing the car. Fifteen to
>thirty years ago, these cars were worth $500 to $3000. It would not take
>much for an insurance company to claim "total" and write a check instead of
>permitting repairs. I paid $750 for '61 BT7 in 1968. My brother bought a
>BJ8 for $2,500 in 1973.
>
We had a car in our body shop that the owner wanted it fixed no matter
what the cost (car was nothing special guess he just loved the car
alot). The insurance company totaled it and gave him the money for the
car then he bought it back from the insurance company and paid the
difference to have it repaired. Title did not change.
>3. If an engine is switched from one car to another is the surviving car
>remanufactured because one car is made from two? It would not surprise me
>if 90% of the existing AHs have parts from donor cars. Its like a blood
>transfusion to keep the marque alive!
>
I replace engines regularly where I work for several reason. Neglect,
something inside broke and a remanufactured is cheaper, or what ever.
Title still stays the same.
>4 The cost of restoring almost any old car is more than it will be worth
>when completed. What does that mean regarding the 'cost of repair test'?
>
Insurance companies wouldn't repair them they are only out for a buck.
>5. If the car has been in a serious wreck and had the right front
>suspension of a donor car cloned onto it, why is that repair treated
>differently than installing a new chassis under an old body. What if the
>front end is rebuilt using aftermarket parts instead of original parts from
>a donor car?
>
I have replaced a few frames in my time. Most recent was a fairly new
Explorer. Driver lost control and hit a culvert and tore up the
underneath to bad and they want the frames replaced not straightened.
Also I have replaced the bodies on two LN9000 ford semi's and the
title never changed.
>6. Is the test tempered by the type of garage that repairs the car? If a
>name restoration shop fixes the car and uses some hard to find (or more
>desirable) donor car parts, is that a 'restoration ' while if a local gas
>station does the work its a 'remanufacture'?
>
Nope by what the previous owners did with the title. Even if I sold a
car to a salvage yard and someone else bought it they would probably
get a reconstructed title.
>It seems to me that remanufatured titles have their place for modern cars
>and unsuspecting consumers but seeing a remanufactured title with an LBC
>only alerts the buyer to look the car over carefully and research the
>repairs that have been effected.
>
Many people worry about it and it does affect the value (in Pa at
least). Just because it has a remanufactured title means it had been
wrecked it could have been a blown engine that the owner didn't want
to bother with replacing and the Healey was just a car to him.
>Unless you are buying a concours car with a pristine provenance, an LBC
>will likely be more than one car put together.
And probably alot of concours cars are put together from other cars
also.
>
best to research the car before buying it and if you already bought
it try to see if there is a way to go back to using the original
serial number.
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:50:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe pix of Healey Little S
--------------
At 03:29 PM 6/29/2002, you wrote:
>Did anyone get pictures of the very rare racing Bugeye Sprite that has just
>been found and restored, which was built to race by DMH using spare 100S
>parts that he had laying around? If you missed seeing this car at Tahoe, you
>missed a rare treat.
>
>Cheers
>Gary
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 22:59:01 -0400
Subject: Re: seat rail studs
Clarke Spares & Restorations
Doylestown, PA
215 348 0595
clarkespares@worldnet.att.net
He produces all sorts of bits for AH's and MGA's. His latest catalog lists
the studs.
Larry Swift
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From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:58:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Service in the San Jose - Bay area
Also, I found a guy in San Fran that still balances wheels on the car.
Ken's Wheel Service, (415-543-1815). He's been doing it for 25-30 years.
Nice guy. My car had a really bad shimmy-shake at 60-70. He said my right
front wheel was way untrue, and the right rear tire wasn't quite round.
Even with all that, after he balanced them on the car, I just feel a little
hint of the out of true wheel, but no shimmy. Nothing like it was. It will
tide me over until I can afford new wheels/hubs.
bk
-------------------------
At 04:16 PM 6/29/2002, you wrote:
>In a message dated 6/29/02 2:11:28 PM, jamesleaverton@ix.netcom.com writes:
>
><< I'm experiencing heating problems with my BN7 and I haven't been able to
>sort
>it out myself. I live in the San Jose California area and am looking for a
>reference to a good healey garage/mechanic in the area to resolve the problem.
>Regards
>Jim L >>
>
>Couple of possibilities -- Closest good shop is O'Connor Classics in Santa
>Clara, but their one mechanic gets booked up way ahead of time. The Engine
>Room in Santa Cruz specializes in Morgans, but does Healeys and has been
>there a long time, with a good reputation. British Car Specialists in
>Stockton is good, of course, but may be a little out of your way. Lilves
>Racing in Corte Madera is a home-based operation, and specializes in British
>car race tuning, but is good, though a little out of the way. Also, I have a
>good friend who is an exceptional Healey mechanic and does some freelance
>work on smaller jobs that can be completed in your garage if you draw a blank
>otherwise.
>
>If anyone else knows any good British car mechanics San Francisco and south,
>please post the info to the web, or let me know so I can check them out.
>
>Cheers
>Gary Anderson
>British Car Magazine
>Los Altos, CA
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From "patrick harris" <rotaryman at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 23:22:15 -0700
Subject: Tahoe and other healey thoughts
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:11:16 EDT
Subject: BABY S
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from furthest to nearest until there are no more bubbles. One important tip:
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:13:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake bleeding BN1
> I used to use the Mighty Vac until I had trouble bleeding the brakes on a
> Peugeot 504. There is enough leakage around the bleed screw to prevent
> bleeding. I went back to the pump the brake method.
>
> Al (BJ8 Fun-aint-it)
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > Please help. The brake reservoir is topped up, I'm getting fluid into
> > to the master cylinder, the internals of the master cylinder look to be
> > in good shape, I've connected my Mighty Vac suction gizmo to the
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:16:25 -0700
Subject: Re: BABY S
Hoylehouse@aol.com wrote:
> IT WAS THE FIRST TIME BRIAN AND JOHN HEALEY SAW IT TOO......BRIAN REALLY
> LIKED IT THOUGH AS HE OWNS A BUGEYE WITH 50,000 MILES ON IT........CAN'T
> BELIEVE THAT DMH BUILT A CAR THAT THEY WOULDN'T KNOW ABOUT.......SCOTTY
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 07:23:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe and other healey thoughts / 302 Ford
Just read your mail to the list.
Thanks for the nice comments about my car.
It's a 59/60 BN-7, 302 Ford, (NASTY BOY)
I didn't retune for 7,000 feet as I was happy the
way it was running even though it was down approx
35 % on power. (-5% per 1,000 feet ?)
Goes like stink at sea level.
The "4 pipe exhaust" you mentioned is a Jag XKE
V-12 exhaust tip.
Sorry we didn't hook up as you and I also could have just
sat down and shot the shit, kicked tires and told lies while
enjoying a Guiness, oh well, next time.
What part of the county do you live ?
Kirk Kvam
San Bernardino, CA
(Nasty Boys Live)
----- Original Message -----
From: "patrick harris" <rotaryman@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2002 11:22 PM
Subject: Tahoe and other healey thoughts
> Responding to where were you listers at, I met several and am glad to
report
> that they were a great group of guys. I met people from all over and it
was
> so enjoyable to just sit down and automatically shoot the shit with a guy
> about his car. I met one fellow from illinois who had his 4 cylinder
engine
> putting out 190 hp had built his own copies of d type wheels out of alloy
for
> his silver 100 and had taken a 100 6 hardtop and retrofitted it to fit the
100
> 4 perfectly. He had cut the top to fit the shorter length and then
> recontoured the back it was a great job. He told me the he does alot of
race
> restorations and that he tumbeled the blocks with shot and would often
remove
> a cup full or more of slag materials out of the water passages inside jags
and
> healeys. That combined with a radiator which although it fit in the stock
> mounts and looked stock except for the fins had 1/3 more cooling capacity
and
> even with the higher race engine resulted in a healey 100 which would run
at
> 170 in traffic. The other car that really impressed was the fellow who
ran
> what i think was a 1/4 mile at the airport and was pushing 110 mph at the
end
> of the run. I believe the engine was a ford 302 or 360 and it sounded so
> bitching at the end of the run but you could hear him coming right from
the
> start. The car was a beautiful blue grey combo with a custom 4 pipe
exhaust
> with uncapped side exhausts for the race events. Overall an excellent
event
> and a excellent operation by the people who put it together. My only
> complaint would be it was too much to take in and the size of it stretched
the
> capacities of the pa and the ac systems at the hotel but it will be along
time
> before we see this size group again. More thoughts tomorrow Patrick
Harris
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 12:21:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Tahoe and other healey thoughts
I enjoyed Joe's pictures of the Silver 100 with the hardtop. It is gorgeous!
Do you have the name and address of the owner? I'd like to learn more about
the hardtop. Thanks.
Ted Schroeder
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "patrick harris" <rotaryman@worldnet.att.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 2:22 AM
Subject: Tahoe and other healey thoughts
> Responding to where were you listers at, I met several and am glad to
report
> that they were a great group of guys. I met people from all over and it
was
> so enjoyable to just sit down and automatically shoot the shit with a guy
> about his car. I met one fellow from illinois who had his 4 cylinder
engine
> putting out 190 hp had built his own copies of d type wheels out of alloy
for
> his silver 100 and had taken a 100 6 hardtop and retrofitted it to fit the
100
> 4 perfectly. He had cut the top to fit the shorter length and then
> recontoured the back it was a great job.
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From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:10:45 -0700
Subject: Re: San Diego AH Club wins in Tahoe!
>Ron & Debbie Rader
>3rd place Observation rallye
>
>Neil Tabachki
>BN ?
Also:
Terry Cowan
5th place, Special Healeys (Sprinzel Sebring Coupe)
Plus, Udo won several Arts & Crafts awards, and several of our members won
various prizes in the speed events (e.g., Sandy Leon 1st place in Autocross
for Stock Sprites under 1000cc and Terry Cowan 2nd place in Autocross for
Race Prepared Sprites).
Rick
--
Rick Snover, President
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:22:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. Healey Service in the San Jose - Bay area
British European on Winchester (in Campbell) mainly
works on Range Rovers but one of their mechanics does
work on older British sports cars.
Good Luck!
Joe Mulqueen
60 BT7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:26:34 -0700
Subject: 2052
When it happens, PLEASE, someone dig me up along
with my Healeys and transport us (Ron, et al.) to the event.
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri Carb
59/60 BN7 (Nasty Boy)
"NASTY BOYS LIVE FOREVER"
P.S. Thanks Golden Gate and ALL !
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 10:30:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Restoration sequence
Its currently a bare, stripped chassis. All the
rough body work and fitting is complete.
I was thinking of the often quoted:
Paint the chassis.
Install hydraulics, harness and firewall components;
build up a driving chassis to prove out the
mechanicals.
Paint undersides of fenders and shrouds off the car.
Install shrouds and body parts.
Mask
Finish paint outer body surfaces.
My concern is paint overspray. Is it truly possible
to prevent sticky overspray from contaminating the
detailed firewall/harness/suspension and other bits?
Thanks for any advice...
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 14:31:06 -0400
Subject: Re: NOT HEALEY RELATED DELETE NOW IF YOU WANT TO.
You old romantic, you. And you're still married?
Sorry I can't help with the wiring. IANALE[1], but I'll try anyway.
I like to keep things simple.
Take out the switch for a moment, and you grab two wires
from an outlet (a black and a white, usually), and wire them
to the two wires of the outside light. The light will always
be on. Simple.
Add in a switch: You cut one of the wires (the "hot" one),
and attach the loose ends to each terminal of the switch.
Flip the switch, the connection is completed, and the light
goes on. Flip it again, the connection is broken, and the light
goes out. Still pretty simple.
Now for the timer. My guess it has a relay (a switchable switch).
Feed juice to the timer (two wires from an outlet) and it can keep
time. Run two more wires out the other side of the timer (relay) to
the outside light. At some point the timer will trip the relay, which
will complete the circuit to the outside light.
This is oversimplified, but it may help you figure it out.
In very poor ASCII:
Main
Fuse ===== outlet ===== timer ===== light
Panel
HTH,
Kent
'56 100 BN2, Bugeye wannabe
[1] I am not a licensed electrician
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 12:01:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Frnt whl brg removal
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 12:11:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Tahoe - hats
A group of us met at the Pub Tahoe on Sunday evening and throughout the week I
met many more listers. I saw at least 20 list hats but must admit that I wore
mine only in the evening (sorry Bob, but it was too hot and sunny to wear a
black
hat all the time!). Name tags were a good way make connections.
My short list of listers that I met there is Ray Juncal, Sharon Tanihara, Alan
Alfono, Jerry Anderson, Mike Salter, Steve Byers, Carrol Goldsworth, Bill
Barnette, Don Lenschow, Blair Harper, Allen Hendrix, Reid Trummel, Darryl
Anderson, Bill Katz, Ron Rader, Steve Cloyes, Brad Weldon, Ron Rader. I met many
others...lots of lurkers out there. I met someone from New Mexico and asked
about
you...I'm sure your ears were burning.
I talked to Gerry Coker about my Virtual Healey project (thanks Editor Gary for
showing it to him) and we were able to 'talk shop' about car design. What a
thrill. Well, the whole Open Roads experience was a thrill ... the cars, the
people, the rally, the drive up and back and around the lake. Glad to be part
of
it and meet some of you.
Cheers,
John Loftus
yellow and black BJ7 (valve cover off to show the roller rockers)
Laguna Beach, CA
frogeye wrote:
> Well, made it back from the great meet...didn't see one single other "list"
> hat..Where were you guys? Only one from the list I met was Mike Salter. Must
> say it was nice to put a face on one of you all.
>
> Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 100
> http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 15:40:46 -0400
Subject: re restoration sequence
Factory painted chassis together complete, then added suspention components
engin/trans wiring, ect.
Sometimes for the non factory assembly line folk (thats all the rest of us
after they stopped making healeys) choose to paint chassis, doors ,fenders,
hood, ect. separate , but I would recomend you try to paint these within
the same timeframe as much as possible.
Just be carefull upon assembly and you can touch up your painted fasteners
where acclicable.
A final touch up buff will take care of any slight mishandlings.
Make sure paint is well cured before fender covers or protection is applied
to finished surfaces.
reguards,
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 13:02:47 -0700
Subject: Tahoe and photos
the view from the window was mind boggling. I have some digital pictures but I
do not have a place to post them.
this brings an interesting point. the Jag list has a page were the listMiester
allows for posting of pictures of cars, parts, and other things of interest.
Is there anyway to expand our list with a web page for the showing of our cars
and parts?
ron R
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 16:02:30 -0400
Subject: re re resto sequence
Would also recomend installing both shrouds before painting , alum bends too
easily and will guarentee you will be doing so till you get it right.
Sorry I missed that part in the first reply
Carroll
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 16:30:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Tahoe and other healey thoughts
> Patrick,
>
> I enjoyed Joe's pictures of the Silver 100 with the hardtop. It is gorgeous!
> Do you have the name and address of the owner? I'd like to learn more about
> the hardtop. Thanks.
>
> Ted Schroeder
> BN1
The 100 is owned by Mark Baker, 9169 ForestPreserve Rd, Durand, IL 61024
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 15:34:45 -0700
Subject: Seat Covers
Anyone know of a source for good quality--preferably sheepskin--seat
covers custom-tailored for BJ8's?
Bob
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 18:56:06 EDT
Subject: Tahoe to Los Angeles, part one
We got a late start Saturday and ran down SR 49 to Mariposa, then made our
way across the Merced Valley and down through Los Banos. The folks who name
places seem to use poetic license: I would have called it a desert, the only
green that I saw was where the pumps were active, and it was a hot day to be
sure. But up across the Diablo range and it was apparent that we were
nearing the coast, as each successive climb and descent brought cooler air,
and when we finally dropped into the Watsonville area we could see, smell and
feel Monterey Bay.
Our destination for that night was Pacific Grove after checking into the
Gosby House Inn situated on Lighthouse Avenue we decided to end the day with
a ride along 17 Mile Drive--and then it almost happened! Just as I backed
out of my diagonal parking space along the main drag, a Mercedes 500 sedan
started to reverse out of a space just in front of me. I had already engaged
first gear, and with my left hand I laid on the horn while I stirred
furiously with my right trying to find reverse. It was one of those times
when I couldn't get the gears to engage and as I sat there helplessly I
watched the space between my bow and his stern decrease to four feet, then
three, then two--and his backup lights went out and he drove off! After
returning the room to change my underwear, we drove the scenic route down
through Pebble Beach, saw how the other 1/2% lives, and called it a night.
This morning we had a breakfast that couldn't be beat and got onto Highway 1,
heading down through Big Sur. The fog was just lifting as we got on the road
and I felt sooooooo cool--what a place to be driving a Healey! From time
to time we'd pass through an aromatic grove of Eucalypts, and met the usual
"former Healey owners" at each scenic turnout. We're doing our best to be
ordinary tourists and hit all the recommended spots--drove through Pfeiffer
Big Sur SP and stopped for the night in San Simeon--we have tickets to do the
Hearst Castle tour tomorrow morning.
Destination is Solvang tomorrow night and Los Angeles on Tuesday--See ya'll
then....
Best--Michael Oritt
From Lou G <lgalper1 at cox.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 16:46:35 -0700
Subject: Tahoe pix of Healey Little S
Was there a count of how many doors flew open during the autocross ??
http://www.geocities.com/louie92120/LakeTahoe.html
From dwflagg at juno.com
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 19:46:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater Knobs From Moss
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2 (Healey Blue)
From "John Peak" <johnepeak at hotmail.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 17:40:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Heater Knobs From Moss
From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 11:17:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Leaky rear differential
(Of course, once someone observes this kind of problem with
brake lines ... they will never let a year pass without bleeding
the brakes and inspecting the outflow fluid for signs of rust
coloration....lol)
hope that isn't your problem, but if it is, it is worth dealing
with now.
-skip-
Rich Locasso wrote:
>
> My rear differential housing has become wet and I am starting to get an
> occasional drop forming on the drain plug. Have not looked at it closely
> but assume it is a seal somewhere.
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 22:56:09 -0400
Subject: o.d. screen
From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Yrag Rehsem" <yragm@hotmail.com>
To: brougheldp@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 22:41:35 -0700
Subject: OR2002 Observation Rallye Answers
1. Love's Wedding Chapel
2. Trooper Gary Gifford
3. Wood
4. Change lanes
5. Bears
6. 7000 feet
7. Ponderosa Ranch
8. NV 28 or 28
9. Highway Patrol
10. 714_ (almost any other number)
11. 9 miles
12. State Capital
13. WP449 or 449
14. Train
15. Meek's Lumber Co.
16. 60 MPH
17. Lonesome
18. Cross
19. 6205 or Washoe Pines Ranch or Foresta Institute
20. 1940 Lincoln Continental
21. Fire Engines
22. Ophir Famous Mill Town
23. Reduction of ore
24. 1961
25. Victims of Drunken Drivers
26. 70
27. Old Geiger Grade
28. Soybeans
29. Geiger
30. Delta
31. $400,000,000
32. 18 hours in any two week period
33. 62
34. Gold Hill
35. 1859
36. 89428
37. 1858
38. 35 MPH
39. VW Beetle spider
40. Flint
41. 3100
42. Sierra Nevada Gold Ranch and Genoa Lakes Golf Club
43. 1851
44. Dayton
45. Mormon Station
46. Show Shoe Thompson
47. $585,000
48. $17.50
49. Golf bags
50. 2
The Other Len, Rallyemaster
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