> Lou, are you sure about the statement below? Since the cap works on
> pressure, how would a pressure cap on the radiator allow coolant back into
> the radiator when it has a need?
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:39:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring follow up question
I have been watching this string with some interest since having an
overheating problem on an attempted trip from Omaha to Elkhart Lake, WI. I
didn't make it to Des Moines In my BJ8. Had to nurse it back slowly,
stopping frequently to allow cool down and top up the rad. after a boilover.
Finally found a combination that allowed me to get home without stopping (45
MPH and heater on full blast on a near 100 degree day). I have no shrouding
on either side of the rad., I tried adjusting timing, by guess, along the
road, but with no luck. Some friends, one of whom is a long time LBC
mechanic suggested I might have a blown head gasket, allowing combustion
gases into the water jacket, thus superheating the coolant. Anyone have an
opinion on this possibility? I had just replaced the stock fan blade with a
Flex Fan from Moss. Anyone have any opinion on that change or should I order
a Texas Kooler? Finally, is anyone using a front mounted electic fan (either
with or without the water pump mounted fan) and with what results.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:39:17 -0400
Subject: RE: The DoubleTree advert
== Alex
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of MOWOGMAN@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 10:30 PM
To: alexmm@adelphia.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: The DoubleTree advert
Alex, it's absolutely a Healey, go look at your own car, it should look very
much like the ad!
John:)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:42:05 EDT
Subject: Tahoe Car Show photo
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 08:59:44 -0700
Subject: Fender install
In a short while I'll be putting my fenders back on. What have people
done
in the past to insulate the steel/aluminum contact. I have painted both the
fender and shroud where they bolt together. In addition, I was thinking of a
clear silicon caulk that never hardens. Anybody used something else that has
stood the test of time?
Goo me,
Greg
BJ8
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From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 12:41:32 EDT
Subject: Re: 100M Question
<< I own 100M BN2-L229850, which has a
BMIHT certificate listing "Colour, exterior" as Old English White and "trim"
as "Red" (Not Reno or Carmine Red, just Red). A picture of the car, which I
obtained from the second owner, and showing the car before restoration in its
original color scheme, indicates a white car with red coves. Can I assume
from the above that my car is in fact the one car built with this color
combination? >>
As noted by Pat Quinn, what your certificate says is that the car was shipped
from the factory with a white exterior and a red interior. So your car most
likely was NOT the one that Emerson refers to in the book. However, it's
possible that the coves were painted by the retail dealer before the car was
sold or as a part of the sale. That was very typical during that period. In
fact, even at the factory the second color was painted over the first.
While we've never been confronted with the situation, if a car was inspected
for the Concours Registry and the owner had the original paperwork from the
dealer showing that the car was painted in the two-tone before it left the
dealership, we would most likely accept that color combination without
deduction.
Cheers
Gary
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 13:09:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring
Bob
BJ7
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:33:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Fender install
Good Luck, Mark
> Hello List'ners,
>
> In a short while I'll be putting my fenders back on. What have people done
> in the past to insulate the steel/aluminum contact. I have painted both
the
> fender and shroud where they bolt together. In addition, I was thinking of
a
> clear silicon caulk that never hardens. Anybody used something else that
has
> stood the test of time?
>
> Goo me,
>
> Greg
> BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 16:40:03 -0400
Subject: 100M Question
> I just received my copy of "The Healey Book" today and noted on page 115,
> covering the 100M, that there is a history of factory 100M color
> combinations. This listing shows only one car was built with a color
> combination of White over Reno Red. I own 100M BN2-L229850, which has a
> BMIHT certificate listing "Colour, exterior" as Old English White and
"trim"
> as "Red" (Not Reno or Carmine Red, just Red). A picture of the car, which
I
> obtained from the second owner, and showing the car before restoration in
its
> original color scheme, indicates a white car with red coves. Can I assume
> from the above that my car is in fact the one car built with this color
> combination?
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hawkes
> 100M
> BJ8
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:38:50 -0600
Subject: RE: Radiator re-coring follow up question
I don't think that a blown gasket is likely in the absence of other
symptoms. If the gasket were blown, coolant would enter the cylinder(s) at
least on the intake stroke, and there would be a lot of white "smoke"
(mostly water vapor, I think) out the exhaust.
Have you tried a "water wetter" such as Red Line? Although it sounds like
you have other problems which need to be corrected, this stuff can really
help with typical Britcar overheating problems. Running a weaker
anti-freeze solution can help too, because water is a better coolant than
ethylene glycol.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: BANJOJOHN@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 7:39 AM
Hi listers:
I have been watching this string with some interest since having an
overheating problem on an attempted trip from Omaha to Elkhart Lake, WI. I
didn't make it to Des Moines In my BJ8. Had to nurse it back slowly,
stopping frequently to allow cool down and top up the rad. after a boilover.
Finally found a combination that allowed me to get home without stopping (45
MPH and heater on full blast on a near 100 degree day). I have no shrouding
on either side of the rad., I tried adjusting timing, by guess, along the
road, but with no luck. Some friends, one of whom is a long time LBC
mechanic suggested I might have a blown head gasket, allowing combustion
gases into the water jacket, thus superheating the coolant. Anyone have an
opinion on this possibility? I had just replaced the stock fan blade with a
Flex Fan from Moss. Anyone have any opinion on that change or should I
order
a Texas Kooler? Finally, is anyone using a front mounted electic fan
(either
with or without the water pump mounted fan) and with what results.
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 15:55:53 -0700
Subject: Golden Gate Austin Haeley Club Event Alert
EVENT ALERT
SUNDAY AUGUST 4
We've received an invitation to exhibit our Healeys at the Monterey
Scottish Games this coming Sunday August 4
starting at 8 AM and running to 3 PM. In addition to a car show there will
be typical scots activities and a
pot-luck lunch, so bring a contribution.
The meet will be held in the Toro Regional Park on Route 68 between Salinas
and Monterey.
Take the 68 exit south from 101 in Salinas and follow until it becomes a
two lane road. Park will be to your left,
so loop under the highway. If you go past Laguna Seca you've gone too far.
For more information contact Rich Saylor at 831-372-9215 or at
rich.saylor@redshift.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 16:56:56 -0600
Subject: Head gasket or cylinder head leak - Was radiator re-core
In my last forty years of experience I have had two cases of persistent
engine overheating which WERE caused by an internal engine leak.
Radiators, fans & everything else were changed without benefit. In both
cases the leak was very small. Small enough that coolant would not leak
out of the engine or be drawn into it on the intake stroke. The two
hundred or more PSI of combustion would cause combustion gasses to leak
into the cooling system. The hot gasses caused an increase in coolant
temperature & also forced some of the coolant out of the over flow.
There was no leak to the outside or into the cylinders because there is
only atmospheric pressure (15 {PSI or less) to push the coolant into the
cylinder. Much less than combustion pressure.
At the time I finally learned that some radiator shops had a "tester"
which could chemically determine if combustion gasses were present in
the coolant. This test is probably still available. One problem was a
leaking head gasket & the other was a small crack in a cylinder head. At
the time I finally learned that some radiator shops had a "tester" which
could chemically determine if combustion gasses were present in the
coolant. I didn't want to accept the fact that one of my Chrysler Hemi
heads was cracked & changed a whole lot of other things first.
It is a long shot but easy to check with the chemical test.
Regards,
Dave Russell
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 17:53:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Fender install
There have been many ways of corrosion proofing our Healeys when doing a
restoration. Here is what I did:
The chassis upright panel that the rear shroud fastens to is critical - it
forms one outer layer of the electrolytic 'disaster', the other being the
fender flange, with the aluminum shroud flange in the middle, right over the
rear wheel! And this all unpainted at the factory. We've all seen what
happens with that over the years!
If you have properly primed and painted all of the flange surfaces and the
chassis itself, you are already way ahead of the way it came out of the
factory. It is unlikely that you would need any sealer or 'goo' for
corrosion protection. IMHO, it is better to leave the painted surfaces as
they are - if moisture ever gets underneath the goo or sealer, you may well
have created a problem where none may have otherwise existed.
To water seal the boot area of the car, I got the shroud installed in it's
final location - pop rivets in place, and then used strip caulk - sometimes
called 'dum dum putty' all along the chasis/shroud interface, and in the
boot at the shroud/chassis seam. I did this before the fenders were bolted
on - lots easier! The stuff can be found at any reputable body shop supply
house. If it'l help, I'll send you the part number, etc.
I also put a bit of putty on the fender bolt washers to prevent water from
working it's way in along the bolt threads. (We Healey nuts tend to wash
out our wheel arches alot!).
It turned out to have been a fortuitous move to do it that way - I had to
take the whole rear section apart again after a rear-ender. If I'd have
used silicone, it would have been a lot harder, and I would have done a lot
more damage. The putty washed off easily with white gas (camp fuel) after
the parts were removed. (try that with silcone!)
I should mention that the boot has always been absolutely water-tight - the
strip caulk worked beautifully, and a boot lid rubber sourced from David
Nock is the best I've seen anywhere.
I'm sure that you'll get many different opinions from people about this.
The thing to remember is that these cars are highly unlikely to be used
again as they were in their 'first lives'. They are pampered and babied and
probably will never again see anything like road salt or huge quantities of
wet leaves. I suspect that washing them constantly will do more damage than
driving them, now!
You've been goo'd!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 8:59 AM
Subject: Fender install
Hello List'ners,
In a short while I'll be putting my fenders back on. What have people done
in the past to insulate the steel/aluminum contact. I have painted both the
fender and shroud where they bolt together. In addition, I was thinking of a
clear silicon caulk that never hardens. Anybody used something else that has
stood the test of time?
Goo me,
Greg
BJ8
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 18:36:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring
----------
> From: R. Poague <rapoague@gte.net>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring
> Date: Thursday, August 01, 2002 1:09 PM
>
> Another $.02 worth: For cars NOT using an overflow tank...a point I
haven't
> seen mentioned yet is to not fill the radiator clear to the top. Coolant
> needs some room to expand when it gets hot. (Note that the name of the
top
> radiator tank is "expansion tank".) If the tank if filled to the top when
> cold, it will invariably push coolant out the overflow hose, most
noticeable
> when the car is stopped and turned off, such as at a rest stop. The owner
> often assumes it "boiled over", and at the first opportunity, "tops off"
the
> radiator. Then the cycle repeats. A cold coolant level about 1 1/2 inches
> below the radiator opening (at the bottom of the cap) seems to work well
for
> me.
>
> Bob
> BJ7
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 02:55:50 +0100
Subject: Thursday was Karting Day for the UK's AH50 celebrations
The day started overcast, but soon cleared to blue skies. The day was
split between those wanting to do 'Heritage' drives - Warwick, Abingdon,
Gaydon, etc, and those who went to the Thruxton Karting circuit.
Photographs of the Karting event are now on the UK AHC web site, and
there's a link to the Thruxton Karting site as well, for some background
reading.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:26:37 -0400
Subject: re fender install
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:29:54 -0400
Subject: fuel sender install
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 19:40:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Seat Rail Overhaul
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from Victoria British. The gasket they sent appears to be rubber (neoprene?)
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 20:29:23 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel sender install
Anyone else used this type of gasket? I'm assuming the original would be
cork.
bs
ps. many Listers recommend hylomar is usually recommended for sealing fuel
gaskets
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> What was the consensus on gasket sealer for the cork gasket on the sending
> unit on top of the tank?
> usually use permatex black but is there better.
> Carroll
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 20:49:26 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel sender install
Glad to see someone else has discovered dum dum - it's amazing how many uses
I've found for that stuff!
I've used a variety of Permatex sealers for the sending unit - # 300 last
time I did one.
For others reading this, don't use a silicone sealer - most of them react
with gasoline and cause problems. A real thin coat on both sides of the
cork gasket is the ticket.
It is also important to make sure that the little copper washers are present
on the six attatching screws - they seal the screw threads so gas can't
migrate up. It is usually necessary to tighten the screws a couple of times
within a few weeks after installation - the cork gasket will compress
slighly after a few days. Nothing worse than having your BVD's smell like
91 octane after a run!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
BT7, BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 7:29 PM
Subject: fuel sender install
What was the consensus on gasket sealer for the cork gasket on the sending
unit on top of the tank?
usually use permatex black but is there better.
Carroll
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 22:55:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring follow up question
not to be insulting but did you perhaps install the new fan backwards?
why would it over heat with the new fan and not the old one.
I installed a 4 core radiator, new water pump, HEALEY 6 bladed desert fan,
and 160 thermostat.
50/50 anti freeze. It now runs COLD!
In my E we installed baffles to force all of the air THROUGH the rad.
also installed a foam "hat" to keep the air from flowing over the rad.
Ron R
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
BANJOJOHN@aol.com wrote:
> Hi listers:
>
> I have...overheating problem ... In my BJ8.
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 06:53:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Block Tester Was: Head gasket or cylinder...
Nick
Dave & Marlene wrote:
>
> At the time I finally learned that some radiator shops had a "tester"
> which could chemically determine if combustion gasses were present in
> the coolant. This test is probably still available.
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From "Nick G." <nickeg at northridge.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 07:15:30 -0400
Subject: Visiting the UK.. Where are the Healeys? :-)
Nick
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 08:16:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Visiting the UK.. Where are the Healeys? :-)
The National Motor Museum in Beaulieu has lots of different automobiles and
I think one healey.
The Museum in Gaydon is also worth a trip.
Larry Swift
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 06:56:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Subject: Seat Rail Overhaul, My BJ8 progress and Misc..
I've been in the process of getting all my bits and pieces zinc plated ....
silver and yellow depending on the pieces and what I could determine.... The
guy I am using for plating (An old timer whom seems very fastideous and does
wonderful work..).. refurbishes the seat rail without taking them apart ...
I have seen some finished product from other varieties of cars and they look
great... I take mine to him this week... (Had to get some new studs welded
on first..) I can let you know the outcome in a few weeks.....
As for cad plating... I don't think anyone does cad plating much more
because of the generation of haz waste.. I believe all is yellow zinc... In
addition.. my seat rails were definitiely silver zinc plated... anybody out
there have more info on yellow versus silver zinc on these??
As for my BJ8 progress... most small painted parts are now powder coated
(black or red as appropriate) .... I will tackle the rear next and plan to
get the black parts powder coated as well ....chassis rust almost all
repaired... fenders, doors, bonnet and boot bead blasted.. (most paint off
at least).. the car should come back from the body shop in late September
(as they are doing this as a filler project .. and giving me a break on
cost) ...bolts, nuts and hardware at the plater for zinc (back next week and
will be purdy)...chrome bits (other than bumpers which are already done) at
the plater.. much will just be polished to retain some original patina....
Considering recoring the radiator or possibly an aluminum radiator..
(tackling Teton Pass at regular intervals may call for the aluminum radiator
option... hmmmmm
and the misc... well my new Cooper S on order... (yes that dreaded
non-Healey topic).. production will not be until December now as I wait for
the upgrade sound system and British Racing Green... Oh well.. she won't be
driven in the winter in Idaho much anyway...
Cheers all..
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
93 NAS Land Rover D110
2003 (was 2002) Cooper S on order
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 09:58:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring follow up question
Thanks for all the opinions and info. I realized after reading some of the
posts that there is supposed to be a shroud funneling the air into the
radiator. Mine is missing. Apparently a DPO decided it was not needed. I
now have one on order. I have not yet checked for the head gasket leak,
might do that if other things don't correct the problem. I also thought I
might have installed the new fan backwards, but have verified that it is
correct. I was having problems before changing the fan, thus the reason for
changing it. I have also adjusted the timing. It was off some. Also, good
info on the expansion tank. I don't have an overflow tank installed, so will
be sure to keep the coolant level down about 1 1/2" from bottom of the filler
neck.
This list is very valuable. I'll let you know if the shroud solves the
problem.
Thanks again
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 10:01:51 EDT
Subject: Membership booklet
We send new members the "Book" and a welcome package with a cover letter,
Austin Healey License plate, Refrigerator magnet and other assorted goodies
we have.
It's been well received by the new members. I now have software that allows
me to post it on the web (it's twenty-four pages). I have it at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/jwerner/newmembershipweb.html";>Bluegrass
Club New Membership Package</A> (700 KB in a PDF format).
I'm in the process of updating it and would welcome any suggestions. If your
club would like to modify it for your use feel free. (I copied most of it
myself from websites.)
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 07:33:43 -0700
Subject: RE: Seat Rail Overhaul
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 11:51:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Visiting the UK.. Where are the Healeys? :-)
"The 100M was introduced in 1955, its modifications similar to those on the
1953 Le Mans cars.
Delivered new to the late Earl of Wharncliffe, it competed in hill climbs
and other motor sporting events, until the Earl suffered serious injuries in
a car accident (not in this car).
The car was then stored in a garage for many years until undergoing a
complete restoration by Alastair Naylor of Shipley."
from their website http://www.beaulieu.co.uk/
Andy
P.S. Beaulieu also offers a lot for families, not just the car enthusiast.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Swift
The National Motor Museum in Beaulieu has lots of different automobiles and
I think one healey.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 12:49:08 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel sender install
<< usually use permatex black but is there better. >>
Wonder if you meant Permatex black "Adhesive" or Permatex black silicone
gasket maker and sealant. As I learned last week, those are two different
products and do different things.
Regardless, for the fuel sender unit, the very best is Hylomar, which has
better resistance to gasoline than the regular Permatex gasket sealants.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
British Car Magazine
www.BritishCar.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2002 13:15:45 -0700
Subject: Vicious Rumor Proved False! Hylomar lives!
It appears on their web site, but to make sure I inquired from corporate and
received the following reply:
> From: "Dobruck, Tom" <Tom.Dobruck@Permatex.com>
> Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 15:49:11 -0400
> To: 'Steve Gerow' <sgerow@singular.com>
> Subject: RE: Is Hylomar going to be discontinued?
>
> Steve,
> I have not heard anything of the product being discontinued from the
> Permatex line.
> Tom Dobruck
> Marketing Communications
> Permatex, Inc.
Whew!
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 14:00:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Subject: Seat Rail Overhaul, My BJ8 progress and Misc..
--- James Sailer <heliskier@direcway.com> wrote:
> Hi Joe:
>
> I've been in the process of getting all my bits and
> pieces zinc plated ....
> silver and yellow depending on the pieces and what I
> could determine.... The
> guy I am using for plating (An old timer whom seems
> very fastideous and does
> wonderful work..).. refurbishes the seat rail
> without taking them apart ...
> I have seen some finished product from other
> varieties of cars and they look
> great... I take mine to him this week... (Had to get
> some new studs welded
> on first..) I can let you know the outcome in a few
> weeks.....
>
> As for cad plating... I don't think anyone does cad
> plating much more
> because of the generation of haz waste.. I believe
> all is yellow zinc... In
> addition.. my seat rails were definitiely silver
> zinc plated... anybody out
> there have more info on yellow versus silver zinc on
> these??
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 14:04:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: zinc vs cad and colors
......Also, cad plating can be dyed various colors.
So what (if anything) on a healey was gold zinc?
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 16:19:59 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel sender install
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: bjcap <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 7:29 PM
Subject: fuel sender install
> What was the consensus on gasket sealer for the cork gasket on the sending
> unit on top of the tank?
> usually use permatex black but is there better.
> Carroll
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From john mann <jemann58 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 14:25:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: part needed
john mann jemann58@Yahoo.com
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 17:16:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: door will not open
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 20:18:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Fender install
For a car that lives mostly in a garage and in the dry, and especially away
from road salt, they aren't likely to be exposed to enough moisture to cause
a problem with corrosion due to dissimilar metals, even without special
protection. Of course, my experience is in humid eastern North Carolina, so
those in Illinois where killer condensations are the rule may want to
consider other advice that makes more sense.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Wilkinson <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: To Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 8:59 AM
Subject: Fender install
> Hello List'ners,
>
> In a short while I'll be putting my fenders back on. What have people done
> in the past to insulate the steel/aluminum contact. I have painted both
the
> fender and shroud where they bolt together. In addition, I was thinking of
a
> clear silicon caulk that never hardens. Anybody used something else that
has
> stood the test of time?
>
> Goo me,
>
> Greg
> BJ8
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 02:34:48 +0100
Subject: AHC now reporting six days of UK event in photos
Perfect weather again (must remember to thank our Weather Procurement
Officer!).
This was a truly magic day. More Healeys than ever before in one place
on UK soil - something approaching 400 cars, I'm told. More celebrities
associated with the car that you could ever imagine at a single event.
More special cars under one 'roof' than you could ever hope for.
Many of us took the opportunity to spin our Healeys round the Thruxton
circuit for an exhilarating 15 minutes. Then it was the turn of many of
our celebrities to do the same with some of the very special cars. A
truly nostalgic cavalcade.
The trade stands and our AHC regalia shop were all doing excellent
business.
Many more photos are on film, and will be put on the web in a few days -
the cars, the celebrities, and the track time.
Apologies if 'Day 6' takes a little longer to load than the others -
it's 2:30am and I don't have time to optimise the image sizes - and I do
have to get up tomorrow for yet another day at Thruxton! This time it's
a Race Day - several races, and not just Austin Healeys!
Click on the link on the bottom of the web front page to see the
photos.....
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 02:38:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Visiting the UK.. Where are the Healeys? :-)
Keep an eye on the 'Calendar' on the UK Austin Healey Club web site
(address below) - this will be updated in the next few days and might
have some new attractions of interest to you.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From john gillespie <austinbj8 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 21:09:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: stuck door, thanks to all who replied
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 09:20:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Vicious Rumor Proved False! Hylomar lives!
CB
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From John New <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 03 Aug 2002 10:26:23 -0400
Subject: Valve Adjustments
I bought a Clik-adjust tool made by Gunson for this job, and one of the
ways to calibrate the tool is to determine the threads per inch of the
adjusting screw. So, does anyone know what the TPI of the screw is on
the 6-cylinder engines, specifically a 3000 MkIII?
Thanks,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 07:30:44 -0700
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET 2002
Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in California.
Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected
to fill the field at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, for the 23rd Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
--------------------------------------------------
SATURDAY - September 7th
The Official British Car Meet Tour To The Sea starts at El Camino Park in
Palo Alto - The same place as the Sunday Show. This is a no cost option for
people who like to drive their cars rather than just show them. We will be
sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:00AM. Don't be late! The event will
end at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and
telling tall tales in the car park into the afternoon.
--------------------------------------------------
SUNDAY - September 8th
Join us for the Best All British Car Show In The West! Don't have a show
car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods &
works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great
British food, jazz, parts, literature, toys and gifts and more fun than
you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards in six classes. Join
your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
The American MGB Association will join us with their National West Coast
Convention. We are expecting over 100 MGBs and Spridgets to line the rows
in front of the stage. There will be special additional AMGBA awards in
classes that will be open to all MGB/Spridget owners, Members, or not.
Another special area will be provided for members of the Arcane Auto
Society who will display their automotive oddities from around the globe.
Cars will be placed on the field by marque, starting at 9:00AM, and the fun
goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. There is
no preregistration. All participants will receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
-------------------------------------------------
DIRECTIONS
El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of University
Avenue, opposite Stanford Center, From 101 take University Ave west, go
under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino Real.
>From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El Camino,
stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the overpass,
then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. Trailer parking is
available on-site at the park.
DO NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT PLEASE!
For information call: 310-392-6605 or email: "Britmeet 2002"
<rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 11:01:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator re-coring follow up question
I completed a tour of Europe last year, and had very few
problems with my car boiling over. We were at high altitudes,
low altitudes, climbing in high heat (through the Alps), etc.
One one leg, for a short time the car behind me reported
smelling some anti-freeze. Upon inspection, sure enough, there
had been a small spill-over near the radiator cap. I normally
keep about 1 inch air space in the top of my radiator (to allow
for expansion), but apparently in my over-anal dilligence to
keep check on the radiator water, I one morning added some
water. I shouldn't have, and the car reminded me that it is
best to keep 1" of air in the top of the tank. (Point number
1: Do NOT fill the radiator to the top.)
There was one car that had no problems with overheating on our
trip. I mean "NO" problems at all. Even in bumper to bumper 2
mile per hour traffic for upwards of 1 hr, in 95 (plus) degree
heat. The car did not go over 200 degrees!!!. Did he have a
"Texas cooler"? (no)... Did he have a special electric fan?
(no)... Did he have extra tubes in his radiator? (no). Did he
have a recent engine overhaul/radiator rebuild? (no!! [surprised
me on that one]) He had extra shrouding. The logic is simple.
The car is quite capable of keeping cool if there is adequate
(cool) air flow through the radiator. The operative words are
"cool air flow". When the cars are not moving at a reasonable
speed, there is a very high tendency for air from the engine
compartment to recirculate through the radiator. In other
words, the hot air from around the engine finds it way to the
front of the radiator. Fancy fans (without proper shrouding)
merely move that hot air faster past the radiator. If the car
has a little speed on the road, then there is a tendancy to
collect a bit more outside air, and so the cars work fine (or at
least OK). The fancy fans, and extra tubing in the radiator
core will do marginal improvements. But if the air being
circulated is too hot, they aren't going to make the "big"
difference. The key to making the cars run at 200 degrees (or
less) is to have the cars moving... (or to put shrouding around
the radiator that forces the air that goes through the radiator
to come from outside the car, and not from inside the engine
bay). My car has the original, small, and only partially
effective shrouds on the two sides in front of the radiator.
That seems to have been adequate for almost all conditions that
I witness. (Point number 2: Add shrouding if you want to add
the single most effective modification for reducing an
overheating problem.)
A couple of weeks ago I drove from Boston to Pittsburgh when the
outside air temperatures never fell below 91 degrees, and were
often over 97 degrees. The car temperature ran between 170 and
190 throughout the weekend. The one exception: In stop and go
traffic, going uphill, to enter the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand
Prix grounds, the car temperature rose to 210 after 40
minutes. I think I am going to add some more shrouding to my
car. It is the stop & go stuff that is the killer.
(Truth in pontificating: I should add the following
disclaimer. Last year in preparation for my European trip, I
did an engine overhaul (which included boiling out the block)
and I had a new (original style) core put into my radiator....
In other words, I know that my car engine and radiator operate
at whatever was their designed efficiency/effectiveness. A
clogged radiator or engine block would probably have resulted in
more overheating problems for me. However, the point remains:
getting proper shrouding is probably the single most important
"extra" that one can do to prevent overheating in a Healey.)
-skip-
BANJOJOHN@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi listers:
>
> I have been watching this string with some interest since having an
> overheating problem on an attempted trip from Omaha to Elkhart Lake, WI. I
> didn't make it to Des Moines In my BJ8. Had to nurse it back slowly,
> stopping frequently to allow cool down and top up the rad. after a boilover.
> Finally found a combination that allowed me to get home without stopping (45
> MPH and heater on full blast on a near 100 degree day). I have no shrouding
> on either side of the rad., I tried adjusting timing, by guess, along the
> road, but with no luck. Some friends, one of whom is a long time LBC
> mechanic suggested I might have a blown head gasket, allowing combustion
> gases into the water jacket, thus superheating the coolant. Anyone have an
> opinion on this possibility? I had just replaced the stock fan blade with a
> Flex Fan from Moss. Anyone have any opinion on that change or should I order
> a Texas Kooler? Finally, is anyone using a front mounted electic fan (either
> with or without the water pump mounted fan) and with what results.
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 10:05:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Vicious Rumor Proved False! Hylomar lives!
Any auto parts store, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Car Quest supplied, etc. that
carries Permatex can get it if they don't have it. I get from CarQuest.
Sam
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 11:49:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Vicious Rumor Proved False! Hylomar lives!
CB
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:19:35 EDT
Subject: Fwd: cheap extended auto warranty 1178t
Best--Michael Oritt
> Car troubles always seem to happen at the worst possibletime. Protect
> yourself and your family with a quality Extended Warranty for your car so
> that a large expense cannot hit you all at once. We cover most vehicles
> with less than 150,000 miles
>
>
> We offer fair prices and prompt, toll-free claims service; Get an Extended
> Warranty on your car today
Return-Path: <Ibei622533262874@aol.com>
Received: from web41 (web41.aolmail.aol.com [205.188.161.2]) by
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Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 12:48:36 EDT
From: Ibei622533262874@aol.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
To: undisclosed-recipients:;
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Message-ID: <11b.1449c8a6.2a7d6365@aol.com>
Car troubles always seem to happen at the worst possible<br>time. Protect
yourself and your family with a quality<br>Extended Warranty for your car,
truck, or SUV, so that a<br>large expense cannot hit you all at once. We cover
most<br>vehicles with less than 150,000 miles<br><br><br>We offer fair prices
and prompt, toll-free claims<br>service; Get an Extended Warranty on your
car<br>today<br><br><br><UL>Warranty plan also includes:<br><LI>* 24-Hour
Roadside Assistance.<br><LI>* Rental benefit<br><LI>* Trip interruption
intervention<br><LI>* Extended towing benefit</UL><br><br><br>Please visit <a
href="http://www.52932.com/?refid=randomnumbers";>HERE</a> for more
info<br><br><br><br><br>20283c
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:24:03 EDT
Subject: Defective Brake Switch
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 13:23:54 -0400
Subject: Re:BN2 Dash
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:27:12 EDT
Subject: Ignition switch
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:46:04 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap extended auto warranty 1178t
CB
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From John New <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 03 Aug 2002 14:41:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
According to my parts manual, the rocker arm adjusting screw is not a
standard bolt, and thus it can't be referenced to a UNF/UNC bolt code (I
don't think). But then I thought, there is a locking nut that goes onto
that screw that might be a standard nut.
Sure enough, the parts manual specifies the nut as FNN 206, which,
according to Anderson/Moment p. 186, is a plain, non-lock type nut
(FNN), lock nut (half thickness) and normal strength (2), 3/8" screw
diameter (06). Ignoring the apparent contradiction between the FNN and 2
designations, the table on p. 184 states a 3/8" shank diameter UNF
thread has 24 threads per inch! Of course I am assuming that the screw
has a UNF (not UNC) thread.
Anyone care to comment on my brilliant sleuthing abilities? :-)
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Sat, 2002-08-03 at 10:26, John New wrote:
> Having recently come out of the break-in period for my re-built engine,
> I am now going to attempt to check the valve clearances (as well as a
> number of other items).
>
> I bought a Clik-adjust tool made by Gunson for this job, and one of the
> ways to calibrate the tool is to determine the threads per inch of the
> adjusting screw. So, does anyone know what the TPI of the screw is on
> the 6-cylinder engines, specifically a 3000 MkIII?
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 15:24:03 -0400
Subject: RE: Ignition switch
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 3-Aug-02 1:27 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Ignition switch
My ignition switch gave out recently. Can I retain and reuse the old
key
cylinder and simply replace the electrical portion?
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 15:25:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Defective Brake Switch
It is not even that hard.
If you have the correct replacement to hand and your brake reservoir is
full just loosen, then quickly replace the switch. The small amount of
fluid that will spill out can be flushed off with water. The problems
come when it turns out that the replacement has a different thread :-(
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 3-Aug-02 1:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Defective Brake Switch
My brake switch seems to be stuck in the closed (circuit made) position.
I've read that I can cover the brake cylinder vent hole with plastic and
remove and replace the old switch while someone puts gentle force on the
pedal to avoid getting air into the system. Has anyone tried this
technique
and if so with what results?
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 15:29:12 -0400
Subject: RE: Valve Adjustments
Your sleuthing is correct.
The adjusting screw is not a standard bolt because it has a ball on one
end, a reduced diameter slot in the other end and is hollow to permit
oil to be fed to the ball end, but the nut is a 3/8" NF thread thin nut.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John New
Sent: 3-Aug-02 2:41 PM
To: John P. New
Cc: Healey-List
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
With some more investigation on my part, I may have answered my own
question.
According to my parts manual, the rocker arm adjusting screw is not a
standard bolt, and thus it can't be referenced to a UNF/UNC bolt code (I
don't think). But then I thought, there is a locking nut that goes onto
that screw that might be a standard nut.
Sure enough, the parts manual specifies the nut as FNN 206, which,
according to Anderson/Moment p. 186, is a plain, non-lock type nut
(FNN), lock nut (half thickness) and normal strength (2), 3/8" screw
diameter (06). Ignoring the apparent contradiction between the FNN and 2
designations, the table on p. 184 states a 3/8" shank diameter UNF
thread has 24 threads per inch! Of course I am assuming that the screw
has a UNF (not UNC) thread.
Anyone care to comment on my brilliant sleuthing abilities? :-)
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Sat, 2002-08-03 at 10:26, John New wrote:
> Having recently come out of the break-in period for my re-built
engine,
> I am now going to attempt to check the valve clearances (as well as a
> number of other items).
>
> I bought a Clik-adjust tool made by Gunson for this job, and one of
the
> ways to calibrate the tool is to determine the threads per inch of the
> adjusting screw. So, does anyone know what the TPI of the screw is on
> the 6-cylinder engines, specifically a 3000 MkIII?
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 15:29:36 -0400
Subject: RE: Defective Brake Switch
It is not even that hard.
If you have the correct replacement to hand and your brake reservoir is
full just loosen, then quickly replace the switch. The small amount of
fluid that will spill out can be flushed off with water. The problems
come when it turns out that the replacement has a different thread :-(
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 3-Aug-02 1:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Defective Brake Switch
My brake switch seems to be stuck in the closed (circuit made) position.
I've read that I can cover the brake cylinder vent hole with plastic and
remove and replace the old switch while someone puts gentle force on the
pedal to avoid getting air into the system. Has anyone tried this
technique
and if so with what results?
Best to all--Michael Oritt
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 14:27:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Defective Brake Switch
During the trip to Tahoe, I noticed that my left front brake hose was
positioned to chafe against the shock absorber arm. I buffered it with duct
tape until I got home, then repositioned it. That required loosening the
brake hose and line fittings. I used the above technique, and didn't lose a
drop. Of course, I didn't take the lines completely apart, either.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 1:24 PM
Subject: Defective Brake Switch
> My brake switch seems to be stuck in the closed (circuit made) position.
> I've read that I can cover the brake cylinder vent hole with plastic and
> remove and replace the old switch while someone puts gentle force on the
> pedal to avoid getting air into the system. Has anyone tried this
technique
> and if so with what results?
>
> Best to all--Michael Oritt
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From george hermance <hermance at erols.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 15:45:33 -0400
Subject: 61 bt7
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 13:48:38 -0400
Subject: Re: cheap extended auto warranty 1178t
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 1:19 PM
Subject: Fwd: cheap extended auto warranty 1178t
> I received the following email solicitation--wonder if they'll cover my
100
> LeMans...
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> > Car troubles always seem to happen at the worst possibletime. Protect
> > yourself and your family with a quality Extended Warranty for your car
so
> > that a large expense cannot hit you all at once. We cover most vehicles
> > with less than 150,000 miles
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:03:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Pesky Brits
>
> Mike--
By way of thanks - Thanks. You gave us a great
> time, and I really am lost for words and means -just thanks. I'd be obliged
> if you'd do me a great favour and send to me the e-mail addresses of all
> and any of the people we met whilst we were there - I'd like to pass on my
> thanks to them as well and maybe stay in touch... If that ain't possible,
> would you please get Keith a beer and give him a big slap on the back from
> me (that's Keith Bester). Apart from yous guys, he would be my best man at
> any wedding I might plan. AS IF.
> Keep in touch, and Mike - let me know what sort of deal Nissan Healey gave
> you for the gearbox. Mary - keep well, I love you. Laurence
>
Laurance--
t was great being with you and your compatriots--I look forward to seeing you
next summer when we--hopefully--get our car over for the UK 2003 tour. I'm
afraid that I don't have any way of gettng those folks' addresses to you--I
had them lumped into a larger group and frankly cannot match up emails to
names. Guess you'll have to return and meet everyone again.
I will, however, forward this to Route 50 crowd and the general
"Austin-healey" mailing list and tell them to identify you as the English
fellow in the tan skirt (LOL) with the terminal sunburn...
Best--Michael
Best--Michael
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 13:12:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Pedal Hanger Cross Pin
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 19:16:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Pedal Hanger Cross Pin
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 21:22:07 -0400
Subject: Re:BN2 Dash
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven at torchlake.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 22:22:27 -0400
Subject: really hot
Can someone explain what was going on? Was the fuel boiling? Would one of
those high zoot Texas fans have helped?
Thanks,
Ted
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 23:03:18 -0400
Subject: Re: really hot
The 'bucking' is probably fuel vaporizing in the carb inlets - 'vapor
lock' - and is typical for 'hot 100's'.
I've been used to, in the past, popping the bonnet to the safety latch
whilst in traffic to let some heat out, then re-seating it when convenient.
However, since I put on a louvered bonnet, the temp has not been a problem.
Seems like air flow is the key.
See some recent list postings about rad ducting, etc.
Good luck,
CB
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 20:08:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Defective Brake Switch
You can usually just unscrew the thing real fast and
then screw the new one in immediately and you won't
have to bleed the system. I actually did that with my
BN1 right before tahoe. Brakes worked just fine w/o
bleeding.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> My brake switch seems to be stuck in the closed
> (circuit made) position.
> I've read that I can cover the brake cylinder vent
> hole with plastic and
> remove and replace the old switch while someone puts
> gentle force on the
> pedal to avoid getting air into the system. Has
> anyone tried this technique
> and if so with what results?
>
> Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 23:17:52 EDT
Subject: Re: really hot
> See some recent list postings about rad ducting, etc.
>
>
I'd be interested to know if any other 100 owners have had any luck with
ducting.
My car is no longer temperature sensitive in traffic since adding a Hayden
fan, but pushing the car about 70-75 on a hot day can drive the temps up to
200 or so indicated. A slight decrease in speed always drives the temp back
down to 180-190 .
Michael Oritt
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 23:17:47 -0400
Subject: PVGP memorabilia
I have access to past years memorabilia for the Pittsburgh Vintage GP.
This includes pins, dash plaques, posters, programs, patches, shirts, etc.
Send me your want list and I can get the items mailed off to you.
All proceeds go to the Charities - Autism Society and Allegheny Valley
School.
1995 was Healey marque of the year with a distinctive poster and dash
plaque and program.
If anyone has items to donate for us to sell, let me know.
Thanks,
C
B
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 13:20:04 +1000
Subject: Re: really hot
If the electric fan is in front of the radiator - then the fan itself is
blocking airflow at higher speeds. At the Bathurst Healey races in 1999, the
fastest 100 there had the same problem - his car ran as cool as a cucumber
in parades - but boiled everytime he raced it. He didn't believe me when I
told him to remove his twin theromostatic electric fans from infront of the
radiator and fix the missing ducting infront of the radiator. He was very
skeptical - and he took a lot of convincing .... We removed the electric
fans, made up some ducting with race tape & cardboard - and he very
reluctantly went out for the final practice session. He came in cool - and
his car was cooler than it had ever run.....
I had experienced exactly the same thing with my bugeye sprite 20 years
ago - and solved the problem exactly the same way. The only way to use a
thermatic electric fan is instead of - not in addition to - the waterpump
engine fan - and fit it behind the radiator - not in front of it.
On a 100/4 - if you can see your sway bar when you look down through the
grille - your ducting is missing.....
On a 3000 MK III - if you can look through your front wheel arch - and see
your grille - your ducting is missing....
I don't have a 100/6 or early 3000 - so I don't know what the ducting looks
like....
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cbaustin@sgi.net>; <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: really hot
> In a message dated 8/3/02 11:11:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cbaustin@sgi.net
> writes:
>
>
> > See some recent list postings about rad ducting, etc.
> >
> >
>
> I'd be interested to know if any other 100 owners have had any luck with
> ducting.
> My car is no longer temperature sensitive in traffic since adding a Hayden
> fan, but pushing the car about 70-75 on a hot day can drive the temps up
to
> 200 or so indicated. A slight decrease in speed always drives the temp
back
> down to 180-190 .
> Michael Oritt
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "George" <leavcast at infomagic.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 21:37:02 -0700
Subject: Re: really hot
George Castleberry
1954 BN1L-157155
1973 GMC Painted Desert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Schroeder" <Tedseven@torchlake.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 7:22 PM
Subject: really hot
> I entered my BN1 in a parade. Not a good idea. It was in the 80's. I
noticed
> little green trails on the street from the other British cars in front of
me.
> One of the spectators kindly informed me that my car was leaving deposits
as
> well. My temp gauge needle was pointing to the oil pressure numbers -
above
> 230. When the parade mercifully ended and I was able to get out of first
> gear, the car did not want to run well at all. It 'hunted' and 'bucked'
for
> three or four miles until it finally smoothed out. I believe the temp had
> returned to 160 well before it returned to normal smooth running.
>
> Can someone explain what was going on? Was the fuel boiling? Would one of
> those high zoot Texas fans have helped?
>
> Thanks,
> Ted
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 00:16:13 EDT
Subject: Healey International Results Open Roads 02
Popular Choice Car Show
100/4
1 Mark and Kathy Baker
2 Joy and Danya Beasley
3 Don and Gayle Southworth
4 Earl and Joanne Yarnell
5 Dick and Beth Lunney
6 Norman and Shona Nock
7 Luther and Alexia Gentry
100 M
1 Eric Hoppingarner
2 Bill and Marie Naretta
3 Tom and Marie Taft
4 Bill Meade
5 Randy and Jeanne Hicks
100 S
1 Roland and Sally Prevost
2 Robert Griffin
BN4 / BN6
1 Neil and Lois Buhman
2 David and Jerri Nock
3 Peter and Alexandra Roses
4 Jerry and Tammie Wall
5 Neil and Nancy Tabachka
6 Roger and Lise Hamel
BN7 / BT7
1 Jerry and Alice Price
2 Robert and Barbara Humphrey
3 Bob and Sheila Findlay
4 Bill and Andriann Wycoff
5 Steve and Leigh Sanders
6 Gary and Genie Anderson
7 Alex and Helga Zanini
BN7 / BT7 TRI CARB
1 Udo and Gisela Putzke
2 Joe and Susie Johnson
3 Len and Martha Thomas
4 Bert and Betty Hand
5 Ron Martin
6 David and Gail Mackenroth
7 Rocky Santiago
BJ7
1 Jim and Maryann Hunt
2 Louis and Patricia Ballard
3 Bob and Millie Poague
4 Bob and Jean Slater
5 Allen and Ione Williams
BJ8 GROUP 1
1 Dennis and Jan Saxon
2 Ed and Anna Orr
3 Dan ObMahoney
4 Ed and Evie Siegrist
5 Jim and Linda Cox
6 George and Marvelle Burkhardt
7 Jim and Shirley Albeck
BJ8 GROUP 2
1 Walt and Joy Kiser
2 Ken and Carol Hiller
3 Dominic and Mary Falconeiri
4 Charlie and Jackie Asbill
5 John and Karen Steck
6 Robert and Yvonne Jones
7 Brian and Beth Bacigalupo
BJ8 Best of show
Walt and Joy Kiser
Box Sprites
1 Gary and Paulette Lownsdale
2 Joseph and Danielle Uhalde
3 Max and Betty Hottell
4 Jack and Mary Brashear
BUGEYE SPRITES
1 Brian and Janice Thornton
2 Doug and Eileen Ingram
3 Bob Segui
4 Sonny and Linda Moore
5 Sandy and Lily Leon
Healey Boats
1 John and Debbie Hunt
2 John May
3 Charlie Lownsdale
JENSEN HEALEYS
1 Larry and Marie Emerson
2 Dave and Chris May
3 Sandi Baker
4 Bob and Vada Strattan
MODIFIED
1 Vaughn Marion
2 Ken and Jeanne Deringer
3 Dennis and Linda Delzer
4 Ron and Sandi Davies
NASH HEALEYS
1 Jim and Maurita Walton
2 Gloria MacDonald
3 Wayne and Dana Redding
4 Cliff and Julie Stranburg
EARLY HEALEYS
1 Bill Emerson
2 Clive Randall
ORIGINAL OWNERS
1 Mal and Ruth Doherty
2 Lou and Carol Boido
3 Don and Cathy Newman
4 George Keens
SPECIALS
1 Peter and Ann Hunt
2 Blaire and Norma Jane Harbor
3 David and Joyce Stonley
4 Bob Segui
5 Terry and Ann Cowan
6 Bill and Pat Bolton
CONCOURS
1 Blaire and Norma Jane Harbor
2 Kent and Judith Lambert
3 Richard and Juli Gordon
4 Roger and Lily Moment
5 Doug and Gerri Knight
RACE CARS
1 Chris and Judy Kellner
2 Tom and Dottie Hidell
3 Craig Anderson
4 Henry and Chris Morrison
BEST OF SHOW over all
Jim and Mauritta Walton
Concours Awards
Gold Level Awards:
Richard Gordon BN1 Denver, Colorado
Blair Harber BN1 St. David's, Ontario
Doug Knight BN1 Burlington, Ontario
Kent Lambert BJ8 Hood River, Oregon
Roger Moment BN1 Longmont, Colorado
Silver Level Award
Bob & Anita Smith BJ8 Chatham, New Jersey
Bronze Level Awards
Dave Grundies BJ8 La Jolla, California
Kent & Sue Keilholtz BN2 Orange, California
RESULTS OF THE AUTOCROSS
OPENROADS 2002
Wednesday June 26, 2002. South Lake Tahoe Airport
Weather: Low of 56 F. High of 91F. Altitude 6,200 Ft.
Sprite Stock Under 1000cc. 1. Leon Sanford 35.098
2. Brian Thornton 38.151
3. Ken Olendzki 39.424
Ladies 1. Barb Olenski 39.916
Sprite Stock Over 1000cc. 1. Rod Hill 29.800
2. Walt Harrison 34.350
3. Nathan York 35.733
Ladies 1. Betty Hottell 37.794
Sprite Non-Stock Over 1000cc. 1. Rex Urban 30.492
2. Dan Parsons 31.194
3. John Casey 31.728
Ladies 1. Susan Joppa 33.599
2. Joan Wright 43.177
Sprite Race Prepared 1. H. Silverstone 33.396
2. Terry Cowan 33.492
100bs (BN-1, 2, 100M, 100S) Stock 1. Tom Taff 32.698
2. Donald Southworth 33.044
3. Bobby Ward 33.159
100bs Non-Stock 1. Bob Gilleland 32.536
2. Michael Oritt 32.724
3. Bob Berry 32.989
Ladies 1. Karen Gilleland 33.198
2. Hilary Cooper 36.662
100bs Race Prepared 1. Craig Anderson 28.633
2. Daniel Smith 29.578
3. Michael Salter 33.589
100-6/3000 Stock (BN4,6,7,BT7) 1. John Jones 33.785
2. Randy Szczesny 33.869
3. Rocky Santiago 34.356
Ladies 1. Julie Miller 37.039
2. Krissy Klein 37.398
3. Ginnie Klein 42.222
100/6 Non-Stock 1. Del Border 31.412
2. Julian Bowen 32.33
3. Henry Morrison 32.574
Ladies 1. Ann Hunt 37.173
3000 Mk II Stock (BJ7, BJ8) 1. Michael Flaws 33.519
2. Marty Allen 33.670
3. Jim Briske 33.674
Ladies 1. Edie Anderson 42.432
3000 Non-Stock 1. Bub Brown 33.866
2. Walt Kiser 33.894
3. Ken Freese 34.310
Modified (Non-Healey Engines) 1. Robert Greer 33.258
2. Ron Davies 33.406
3. David Boles 33.770
Jensen Healey (Stock) 1. Dave May 32.981
2. John May 33.045
3. Chris May 33.609
Ladies 1. Sandi Baker 36.329
2. Kate ObLeary 35.291
FUNKHANA WINNERS
DRIVER NAVIGATOR FROM TIME
1. Michael Flaws Barbara Flaws Lake Forest, IL
2:22
2. Frazier Monroe Taelor Monroe Plano, TX
3:03
3. Mike Scaglione Sheila Scaglione San Jose, CA
3:28
4. Ken Olendzki Barb Olendzki Arlington Heights, IL
3:29
5. Sanford Leon Amber Urban San Diego, CA
3:30
Arts and Crafts
Photos
Motion
1 Jerri Nock
2 Ron Yates
3 Charlie Lownsdale
Pride and Joy
1 John Soderling
2 Roger Cutting
3 Alan Teague
Humor
1 Cynthia Nesheim
2 Ron Yates
3 Ron Davies
Club Activities
1 Alex Zanini
2 Michael Flaws
3 Gary Lownsdale
Healey Collectables
1 Gary Lownsdale
2 Udo Putzke
3 Terry Parsons
Healey Crafts
1 Udo Putzke
2 Cyndi Marble
3 Susan Bardellini
Healey Memorabilia
1 Bob Hall
2 Mal Doherty
3 Don Fisher
RESULTS OF THE SPEED RUN
(Note: Several drivers did not fill in their entry form completely. If your
name is listed and the class does not correspond to what was driven, you left
the "Make, Model or Year" blank.)
Placings with identical times were determined by fastest average on total
runs made.
Sprite Stock (Over 1000cc) From Best (Miles per Hour)
1. Gordon Gilamen Peoria, IL 66
2. Walt Harrison Olympia, WA 65
3. Nathan York Oklahoma City, OK 63
4. Rod Hill San Jose, CA 59
5. Sanford Leon San Diego, CA 56
1. Jan Saxon (Ladies) Auburn, WA 52
Sprite (Non-Stock)
1. Max Hottell (M) Corpus Christi, TX 64
1. Betty Hottell (L) " 61
Sprite (Non-Stock Over)
1. Dan Parsons Ferndale, MI 71
2. Frazier Monroe Plano, TX 69
3. Richard Eiselle Ann Arbor, MI 69
4. Sam Hamilton " 67
5. Bill Cantrall Downers Grove, IL 65
6. John Carey San Jose, CA 65
7. Leroy Joppa Laona, WI 63
8. Roger Cotting Lyon Township, MI 61
9. Jon Monies Columbus, IN 59
1. Susan Joppa (L) Laona, WI 70
2. Joan Wright (L) Nashville, IN 54
Sprite (Race Prepared)
1. H. Silverstone Baldwin Park, CA 74
2. Rex Urban Salem, OR 74
100s Stock (BN1,2, 100M)
1. Mike McPhail Austin, TX 70
2. Bobby Ward Weatherford, TX 68
3. Donald Southworth Alta Loma, CA 67
4. Walt Mainberger Sarasota, FL 63
5. Dennis Meehan Sparta, NJ 63
100s (Non-Stock)
1. Bob Gilleland Burleson, TX 73
2. Michael Oritt St. Leonard, MD 72
3. Bill Naretta Lovebs Park, IL 69
1. Marie Naretta (L) " 69
100-6/3000 (BN4, 6, 7, BT7)
1. Steve Sanders Humboldt, TN 72
2. Leonard Thomas Stone Mtn., GA 72
3. Randy Szczesny Deer Park, IL 70
4. John Jones Waxhaw, NC 70
5. Henry Morrison Cedar Crest, NM 68
6. John Weinlen " 66
7. James Slostad Graham, WA 65
8. Brett Miller Austin, TX 65
9. Laurie Wilford Cambridge, ON 64
1. Hilary Cooper (L) Hurst, TX 70
2. Julie Miller (L) Austin, TX 55
100-6 (Non-Stock)
1. Dave Case Louisville, KY 85
2. Jerry Costanzo Granite Bay, CA 79
3. John Turney Concord, CA 78
4. Del Border Glen Rock, PA 72
5. Julian Bowen Nottingham, UK 70
6. Wiet Huidehoper San Bernardino, CA 70
7. Michael Flaws Lake Forest, IL 69
8. Dale Sorensen Keshena, WI 62
9. Udo Putzke Poway, CA 57
1. April Gentile (L) Louisville, KY 84
3000 Mk III Stock (BJ7, BJ8)
1. Robert Delaney Tucson, AZ 75
2. Jim Briske Penn Valley, CA 71
3. Ken Freese Diamond Springs, CO 71
4. John Bumpus Sidney, BC 71
5. Chuck Anderson Monroe, NC 70
6. Ed Orr Stoney Creek, ON 70
7. Tom Haubert Midland, ON 70
8. Don Lenschow Boyd, TX 70
9. Bob Slater Breslau, ON 69
10 John Davidson Mooresville, NC 69
11 Jim Cox Tappahannock, VA 68
12 Bruce Goodrich Suquamish, WA 68
13 Marty Allen Oakland, CA 66
14 Pete Sandy Huston, TX 65
15 Allan Gross Vancouver, WA 64
3000 Mk III (Non-Stock)
1. Walt Kiser Cumming, GA 70
2. Bob Brown Warrenville, IL 70
3. Len Hartnett Vacaville, CA 69
1. Pat Brown (L) Warrenville, IL 70
Jensen Healey
1. Sandi Baker (L) Alamo, CA 69
1. Bob Stratton Tulsa, OK 66
2. Kate ObLeary (L) Antioch, TN 65
Specials
1. Peter Hunt Blackford, Scotland 70
Modified
1. Chuck Breckenridge Edmonds, WA 107
2. Jim Boles Goleta, CA 106
3. Charlie Breckenridge Edmonds, WA 103
4. Martin Small Portland, OR 101
5. Bob Berry Wrightwood, CA 100
6. Kirk Kuam San Bernardino, CA 99
7. Ron Davies Redlands, CA 78
8. Robert Greer Sonoma, CA 72
9. Ed Pittman Sedona, AZ 37
Pinewood Derby Results
(XXX) indicates registration number
Junior Class/Stock Cars
1st Haley Lawrence (485)
2nd Kenzie Tillit (228)
3rd Christopher Small (621)
Junior Class/Modified Cars
1st Paul Fabisch (303)
2nd Britney Bliven (630)
3rd Jack Baker (68)
Senior Class/Stock Cars
1st Norman Nock (21)
2nd Shona Nock (21)
3rd Bruce Jackson (183)
4th Rich Miller (322)
Senior Class/Modified Cars
1st Allen Hendrix (397)
2nd Gary Lownsdale (160)
3rd Gale Fabisch (303)
RC Races Results
Junior Class b Healey Body
1st Elliott Flaws
2nd Andrew Flaws
Junior Class b Non-Healey Body
1st Jack Baker
Senior Class b Healey Body
1st John Steck
2nd Udo Putzke
3rd Michael Flaws
Senior Class b Non-Healey Body
1st Paul Fabisch
2nd Mark Baker
David Nock
co/chaiman Healey International 2002
June 23/28 2002
Horizon Casino Resort
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 08:37:35 EDT
Subject: test
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 09:45:19 EDT
Subject: Healey Club and BRITISH CAR Magazines
1. CHATTER (AHCA Magazine prior to name-change)--February '90 thru April '93
2. AUSTIN HEALEY (AHCUSA magazine)--August '98 thru July '02
3. HEALEY MARQUE (AHCA magazine)--1999 thru 2001
4. BRITISH CAR MAGAZINE--October '98 thru September '01
The price is FREE---just agree to reimburse shipping costs, etc. You don't
need to take them all--just one lot. Send name & shipping address, etc.
Thanks--Michael Oritt
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 23:22:57 +1000
Subject: advertising space for sale on Cooper S roof on eBay!! (No
How enterprising is this??
"For $30,000 I am willing to let your company place it's logo on the roof of a
Mini Cooper-S that I will buy with the money"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1755556844
If anyone was thinking of bidding........... call me first - I'll buy a bigger
car with a bigger roof with your money !!!!
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 10:10:24 EDT
Subject: Re: advertising space for sale on Cooper S roof on eBay!! (No
> "For $30,000 I am willing to let your company place it's logo on the roof of
> a
> Mini Cooper-S that I will buy with the money"
>
>
Chris--
Gee, I was going to bid on it but then saw that the ad will remain on the car
only for 18 months.
I have some space on the underside of my diffferential that I'll sell for
$5--good until the first rollover....
Best--Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 10:34:17 EDT
Subject: remaining magazines
Michael
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 10:58:41 EDT
Subject: all gone
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 10:44:42 -0700
Subject: RE: Fender install
I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips regarding what to use
between
the fender and shroud. I have painted both surfaces with epoxy appliance
spray paint for rustproofing, then I'll apply a thin coat of silicone on
both surfaces, keeping separate until cured. Once dry, I'll install the
chrome beading. A special hats off to Jerry for suggesting Dynamat on the
outside of the pedal box before putting the fender back on. That's seeing
the "Big Picture"
Thanks all,
Greg
'67 BJ8
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From "Linwood Rose" <linwoodrose at hotmail.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 09:01:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey International Results Open Roads 02
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 12:15:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey International Results Open Roads 02
Linwood Rose wrote:
> Tahoe attendees:
> For those of us who could not attend, but wanted to oh so badly, any chance
> of someone matching up vehicle photos with the list of winners provided by
> David Nock?
> Lin
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From TC <tm-c at gmx.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 22:34:54 +0200
Subject: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
a. drain the battery
b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
What4s the advice ?
Best regards
Tim Campe
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 16:58:53 -0700
Subject: BN6 carb heat shield
Bob Denton
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 16:04:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
Bill
60 BT7 61 AN5
TC wrote:
>Hi Listers,
>
>I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
>radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
>heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
>which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
>as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
>off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
>
>Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
>and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
>all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
>a. drain the battery
>b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
>
>What4s the advice ?
>
>Best regards
>Tim Campe
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:07:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
Anyone who has turned off their engine when it was a warm day,
has probably noticed the dashboard temperature guage climb to
what appears to be alarming numbers. However, once they restart
the engine, the temps immediately drop to reasonable values.
Your analysis, of course, provides the reason for this
phenomenon. There is cool (at least cooler than the engine
water) water in the radiator, and once the engine is restarted,
this cool (er) water brings the temp guage reading back down to
normal ranges.
Bottom line: no need to add an electric fan... (but good ducting
will do the trick whether you are going fast or slow...)
-skip-
TC wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
> radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
> heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
> which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
> as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
> off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
>
> Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
> and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
> all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
> a. drain the battery
> b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
>
> What4s the advice ?
>
> Best regards
> Tim Campe
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From John New <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 04 Aug 2002 19:23:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
If you did install a thermostatically controlled fan, the thermocouple
would have to be located in the radiator. If you put it in the block,
when you turned off the engine, the temperature at the thermocouple
would remain high for quite awhile (as another reply has pointed out)
and the fan would certainly drain the battery (unless it had a
time-limited switch as well).
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Sun, 2002-08-04 at 16:34, TC wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
> radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
> heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
> which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
> as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
> off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
>
> Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
> and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
> all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
> a. drain the battery
> b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
>
> What4s the advice ?
>
> Best regards
> Tim Campe
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 19:35:55 -0500
Subject: Re: BN6 carb heat shield x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 19:50:01 -0500
Subject: Advertisement
Don
BN7
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 19:56:00 -0500
Subject: Cooling Fan after engine shuts off
Don
BN7 (That I may have to sell to pay for the rice-burner)
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 18:33:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cooling Fan after engine shuts off
Congrats on getting the Honda hybrid. I think it is
very cool that a healey guy would get hybrid vehicle.
When I head back to the states, that'll be high on my
list (although my fiance has her eye on the new
mini!). I hope you won't have to sell your BN7 to pay
for it!
It's very common for many modern vehicles to run the
fan after they are turned off (particularly compacts).
I believe it has to do with the fact that newer cars
run significantly hotter than our healeys (hotter
temps aid combustion, particularly for a hybrid/fuel
economic engine - they run something like 200++), and
if the fans don't run after the engine is shut off,
they can boil over particularly on a hot day, so the
fans help remove heat after the car is shut off. Plus
the hybrid probably has a pretty small radiator to
boot....
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Don Yarber <donyarber@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Hey Gang:
> I just bought the new 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid. I
> won't go into the details but will say that I'm real
> pleased with it so far. The electric cooling fan
> stays on for about 5 minutes after the engine is
> shut down. I don't know anything about the
> engineering principles but I do know that Honda is
> an excellent vehicle and if their engineers think it
> is important to keep the cooling fan running after
> shut down, then there has to be a good reason.
>
> Don
> BN7 (That I may have to sell to pay for the
> rice-burner)
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:42:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Additional cooling fan when engine not running?
In a message dated 8/4/2002 2:11:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tfsbj
7@mindspring.com writes:
> Your skepticism is well warranted. If the water isn't
> circulating, the temp in the engine will rise, and the temp in
> the radiator will cool.
>
> Anyone who has turned off their engine when it was a warm day,
> has probably noticed the dashboard temperature guage climb to
> what appears to be alarming numbers. However, once they restart
> the engine, the temps immediately drop to reasonable values.
> Your analysis, of course, provides the reason for this
> phenomenon. There is cool (at least cooler than the engine
> water) water in the radiator, and once the engine is restarted,
> this cool (er) water brings the temp guage reading back down to
> normal ranges.
>
> Bottom line: no need to add an electric fan...
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 22:02:55 -0400
Subject: Re: really hot
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:42:55 -0500
Subject: "Reply to All" please
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Wilkinson <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: To Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: Fender install
> Hi all,
>
> I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips regarding what to use between
> the fender and shroud. I have painted both surfaces with epoxy appliance
> spray paint for rustproofing, then I'll apply a thin coat of silicone on
> both surfaces, keeping separate until cured. Once dry, I'll install the
> chrome beading. A special hats off to Jerry for suggesting Dynamat on the
> outside of the pedal box before putting the fender back on. That's seeing
> the "Big Picture"
>
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Greg
> '67 BJ8
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 22:54:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Advertisement
Rick
In a message dated 8/4/02 8:54:53 PM, donyarber@earthlink.net writes:
<<For $30,000 I'll tattoo your company's name on my butt cheeks and walk down
Broadway bare-assed.
Don
BN7>>
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2002 21:15:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
If your Healey overheats on the road, pull over, turn the engine off and
turn the fan on. After a few minutes of cooling the coolant in the radiator,
start the engine and move that coolant into the block, then shut down and
repeat the sequence several times. You can have your engine back to a
reasonable temperature in a few minutes rather than having to wait until it
cools down at ambiant air temperature. You would be back on the road in
five or ten minutes. It has worked for me the few times that I have needed
it.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 1:34 PM
Subject: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
> Hi Listers,
>
> I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
> radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
> heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
> which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
> as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
> off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
>
> Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
> and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
> all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
> a. drain the battery
> b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
>
> What4s the advice ?
>
> Best regards
> Tim Campe
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 23:31:44 -0500
Subject: Re: "Reply to All" please
Rick Ollah
Duluth MN
54 100-4
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 23:37:32 -0500
Subject: Re: really hot
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 17:07:08 +1000
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
| Hi Listers,
|
| I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
| radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
| heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
| which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
| as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
| off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
|
| Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
| and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
| all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
| a. drain the battery
| b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
|
| What4s the advice ?
|
| Best regards
| Tim Campe
|
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From "Lance Werner" <brshwrks at bellatlantic.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 05:43:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 12:15 AM
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
> There is one advantage to a supplemental cooling fan that has not been
> mentioned. Mine is installed with a thermostat and a separate on/off
> switch.
>
> If your Healey overheats on the road, pull over, turn the engine off and
> turn the fan on. After a few minutes of cooling the coolant in the
radiator,
> start the engine and move that coolant into the block, then shut down and
> repeat the sequence several times. You can have your engine back to a
> reasonable temperature in a few minutes rather than having to wait until
it
> cools down at ambiant air temperature. You would be back on the road in
> five or ten minutes. It has worked for me the few times that I have
needed
> it.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
> To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>; <healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 1:34 PM
> Subject: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
>
>
> > Hi Listers,
> >
> > I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of the
> > radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and in
> > heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
> > which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set temperature
> > as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been turned
> > off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
> >
> > Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
> > and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense at
> > all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
> > a. drain the battery
> > b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
> >
> > What4s the advice ?
> >
> > Best regards
> > Tim Campe
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 07:25:01 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Additional_coolign_fan_when_engine_not_runni
Al 67BJ8 (Aint-it-fun)
> An Australian company (Davies-Craig) that makes electric fans has now
> come up with an auxiliary water pump that fits in the lower radiator
> hose. They claim one advantage is that after the engine is off it
> continues to circulate the water to ensure everything cools.
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:50:16 -0400
Subject: Re: really hot
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
cyfied
<cyfied@uslink. To: Bob Coates
<Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com>
net> cc: Charley Braum
<cbaustin@sgi.net>,
08/05/02 12:37
healeys@autox.team.net, Tedseven@torchlake.com
AM Subject: Re:
really hot
Sent by:
owner-healeys@a
utox.team.net
Please respond
to cyfied
That's interesting, I never thought of the condenser. Our 59 MGA does the
same
thing. I always thought it was the starter overheating.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:51:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Werner" <brshwrks@bellatlantic.net>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 2:43 AM
Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
> Hi all:
> I don't know for a fact, but I would think that the difference in the
block
> temp and the radiator temp would create some small amount of circulation;
> therefore bringing the overall temp down.
> lance
> 54 bn1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 12:15 AM
> Subject: Re: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
>
>
> > There is one advantage to a supplemental cooling fan that has not been
> > mentioned. Mine is installed with a thermostat and a separate on/off
> > switch.
> >
> > If your Healey overheats on the road, pull over, turn the engine off and
> > turn the fan on. After a few minutes of cooling the coolant in the
> radiator,
> > start the engine and move that coolant into the block, then shut down
and
> > repeat the sequence several times. You can have your engine back to a
> > reasonable temperature in a few minutes rather than having to wait until
> it
> > cools down at ambiant air temperature. You would be back on the road in
> > five or ten minutes. It has worked for me the few times that I have
> needed
> > it.
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA, USA
> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "TC" <tm-c@gmx.net>
> > To: "Healey Chat" <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<healeys-owner@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 1:34 PM
> > Subject: Additional coolign fan when engine not running?
> >
> >
> > > Hi Listers,
> > >
> > > I have installed in my BJ8 an additional electrical fan in front of
the
> > > radiator which helps keeping the temperature in line on hot days and
in
> > > heavy trafic. Now someone suggested to link the fan to the thermostat
> > > which would enable it to automatically kick in at a pre-set
temperature
> > > as well as run for a couple of minutes after the engine has been
turned
> > > off (only if the pre-set temperature is reached).
> > >
> > > Now I was wandering if having the fan working while the engine is off
> > > and no water is circulating through the engine block makes any sense
at
> > > all. With my limited technical understanding all this would do is :
> > > a. drain the battery
> > > b. reduce the temp in the radiator a bit but not the engine.
> > >
> > > What4s the advice ?
> > >
> > > Best regards
> > > Tim Campe
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 10:29:13 -0600
Subject: Missing Person?
I haven't seen or heard anything from Ed Adams since June. Wondering if
he has disappeared, or busy, or what. Anyone know?
Thanks,
Dave Russell
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:36:41 -0400
Subject: Fwd: Is it really the condenser?
It's an adventure driving any old car! When my Healey was new, it was as
reliable as a hammer, and I drove it during Dallas summers (100+ degrees)
without overheating problems. Sometimes I'd feel the need to kick the idle
up to 1500 rpm or so at a stoplight, though.
Regarding the condenser, sometimes procedures work for the wrong reason.
While the problem could well be the condenser, it could also be a hairline
crack in the rotor, that only opens up enough to be a problem when things get
really hot. By the time the condenser has been swapped out, the rotor has
cooled enough to be temporarily O.K. You can see how that would lead to a
neverending cycle of replacing condensers.
I once cracked a rotor while changing points. The crack was invisible, but
was determined to be there through direct replacement. There was no spark at
the plugs at all; it was all going straight to ground through the crack in
the rotor.
Happy motoring,
--
John Miller
Hotlanta
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 11:50:54 -0500
Subject: Re: 5000 miles in a Bugeye
> Hi all,
> I have just put up some photos of our drive from Illinois to Lake Tahoe
> this June.
>
> http://www.wrcresearch.com/rt50.html
Great pictures, Bill. Thanks for helping make Lone Jack almost nearly famous.
I'm glad you had a good time and it was fun having you all.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:39:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Safety Gauge
Dean BN7 (Planning to drive to Monterey for the
historics and would like to see the real temp)
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:46:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: replacing just a door - Fixed!
Had the car at the Ventura All British car show and
didn't hear anyone snickering about the repair job...
at least not within ear shot.
Thanks again!
Dean BN7 (back on the road)
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 11:58:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Advertisement
Terry
Don Yarber wrote:
> For $30,000 I'll tattoo your company's name on my butt cheeks and walk down
>Broadway bare-assed.
>
> Don
> BN7
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 14:58:58 -0400
Subject: Healey spotted on rt. 17, NY
Andy
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:10:14 -0400
Subject: RE: Valve Adjustments
I just did my valves with a click-adjust tool. I found it very easy to use
and relatively quick. I used the following method:
1. slacken off locking nut
2. using a 10 and 12 thou' gauge together and turn the click-adjust until it
bottoms (the loud click)
3. remove the 12 thou' and count the number of clicks until it bottoms ...
this is the number of clicks equaling 12 thou' (I believe it was 7 when I
did it, but you should determine this yourself)
4. for each valve, without any feeler gauge, turn click-adjust until it
bottoms. Now undo it for the number of clicks determined in #3. Tighten and
move on to the next.
This method takes into account any wear, so is much more accurate than you
could achieve simply using a wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge.
Good luck.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: John New [mailto:jnew@hazelden.ca]
Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2002 10:26 AM
To: Healey-List
Subject: Valve Adjustments
Having recently come out of the break-in period for my re-built engine,
I am now going to attempt to check the valve clearances (as well as a
number of other items).
I bought a Clik-adjust tool made by Gunson for this job, and one of the
ways to calibrate the tool is to determine the threads per inch of the
adjusting screw. So, does anyone know what the TPI of the screw is on
the 6-cylinder engines, specifically a 3000 MkIII?
Thanks,
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 12:26:58 -0700
Subject: Healey Spotted - For Sale
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
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From john lakie <doelakie at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 14:42:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: o/d drain plug
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 15:53:18 -0700
Subject: Re: o/d drain plug
Yes, right hand threads ... righty tighty (CW) ... lefty loosey (CCW).
A OD drain plug removing tool would be the best thing to use. I have only seen
them for sale in British Car Specialists catalog. Others have made them by
notching a pipe to fit the OD notches and boring a hole for a handle or welding
one on. A pin spanner of the right size should also work (they look a bit like a
letter G in profile)
You should be able to remove it with large channel locks or a drift but risk
damage to the plug. Perhaps some sealant was used when last installed and is
making it hard to turn.
G'luck,
John
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 19:07:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge
<< Gary,
Thanks for the invite. As a spectator, wandering
around the pits is the best part. Will you be racing
on Saturday?
Dean BN7
>>
For anyone interested in the Monterey Historics, all classes have one
practice sessino each on Friday, starting at 9:00 am. This is the cheapest
day to attend, has the least crowds, and every car will be running. The
sessions are only for "practice" but since no one (except Stirling Moss) ever
takes the Historics seriously, there won't be significant differences between
the "races" on Saturday and Sunday, and the practice sessions.
On Saturday, the bigger bore cars run, including at least one Healey (Dan
Klenke's 100M) in the over 2500cc 55-67 production class. On Sunday, the
smaller bore cars (like my MGA in the under 2500cc 55-67 production class)
will run. On those two days the cars all have one practice session in the
morning, and one ten-lap "race" in the afternoon.
Saturday is the big day, with most of the crowds. If you don't want to sit
in long lines waiting to get in, come early (e.g. before 8:00 am).
if you want to see the cars but avoid the crowds entirely, and don't want to
pay big bucks to get in, come for the prehistorics this coming weekend. Most
everyone will be there -- it's sort of a dress rehearsal -- and all the cars
will run for one practice session on Saturday and one race on Sunday. Come
anytime Saturday or Sunday. You'll have to "Join" HMSA to get into the
paddock, but they sell associate memberships with membership cards that look
suspiciously like movie tickets for about $10
If anyone comes, stop by my pit and say hello. I'll have a bright red MGA,
number 5. (I could never bring myself to do to my Healey what you have to do
to make a vintage car raceable.)
Cheers
gary
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 19:09:26 EDT
Subject: Re: o/d drain plug
<<
You should be able to remove it with large channel locks or a drift but risk
damage to the plug. Perhaps some sealant was used when last installed and is
making it hard to turn. >>
When you do get it off, be sure not to lose the funny rubber washer in the
bottom of the plug under the drain basket (don't lose that either). That's a
magnetized rubber disk that is supposed to pick up the odd gear filing that
gets chewed off the transmission or overdrive.
Cheers
gary
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 19:07:32 -0400
Subject: Re: o/d drain plug
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: john lakie <doelakie@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: o/d drain plug
> I'm currently in the process of trying to change my
> overdrive fluid but have run into a problem removing
> the big drain plug. Mine appears to be made of brass
> with notches around the circumference, so I tried
> tapping it with a drift to turn it but no luck. I've
> moved up to a large pipe wrench ( with an extension
> handle) but still no luck! Are the threads right hand
> threads, ie turn COUNTER-clockwise to undo? Any
> suggestions???
> thanks in advance,
> John Lakie
> 65 BJ8
> Ontario, Canada
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 20:27:26 -0400
Subject: Re: 5000 miles in a Bugeye
Jim
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From WmsRbt at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:06:10 EDT
Subject: Re: o/d drain plug
I made a tool a couple of years ago for this job. It is basically a 1/4"
flat bar 1" wide and 18" long. I welded two 1/4" x 1 3/4" square bar to the
flat bar, 2 9/16" apart, and in alignment with the centerline of the 1/4"x1"
flat bar. I welded the square bar all-around except for the last 1/4", where
there is no weld. The 2 9/16" gap between the square bars starts 2" from the
end of the flat bar. I have a slight bend in the flatbar to keep the skin on
my knuckles and not on the frame. The ends of the square bar fit neatly into
two opposing notches in the bronze cover plate. I know a bar at each notch
would give more leverage all around the plate, but this tool had worked fine
for several years. It is light enough to use easily while flat on my back
under the car, too.
Hope this explanation is clear enough. Let me know how it goes...
Robert
66BJ8
In a message dated 8/5/02 5:45:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
doelakie@yahoo.com writes:
>
> I'm currently in the process of trying to change my
> overdrive fluid but have run into a problem removing
> the big drain plug. Mine appears to be made of brass
> with notches around the circumference, so I tried
> tapping it with a drift to turn it but no luck. I've
> moved up to a large pipe wrench ( with an extension
> handle) but still no luck! Are the threads right hand
> threads, ie turn COUNTER-clockwise to undo? Any
> suggestions???
> thanks in advance,
> John Lakie
> 65 BJ8
> Ontario, Canada
> Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
> http://health.yahoo.com
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 20:53:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge; and follow-up to radiator re-coring thread
I'll answer your question and at the same time bring everyone up to date on
my overheating problem that kicked off the long thread on radiator
re-coring.
Yesterday, I did exactly what you're proposing to do. After I removed my
temp gauge from the car for easier -- and more accurate -- testing, I
discovered that the needle went almost to 230 degrees F when the temp bulb
was immersed in rapidly boiling water (I live at sea level, by the way, so
the temperature of boiling water here should be exactly 212 F). So, the
gauge was inaccurate after all and reading high. As I stated earlier, I had
tested the gauge in place, and it did go to 212; but the bulb is very
sensitive to temperature changes, so it's possible that the cooling of the
pan from stove to garage was enough to make the gauge register 212 when it
was actually measuring something less than that, even though I tried to keep
the water boiling throughout with a propane torch. Another factor
influencing accuracy was, with testing in the car, it takes two people to do
it. I did note that with the temperature in the garage at 94 degrees on
Sunday, the dash gauge said it was between 100 and 110 (no water in the
block, thermostat and thermostat housing removed).
So, with the gauge out of the car, I pulled the needle, put the temp bulb in
boiling water on the stove, and replaced the needle pointing to 212. The
gauge is now reinstalled, and the needle is sitting firmly on the low peg.
I still have the water pump and radiator to reinstall before I can start the
engine and see how it does. I'll report again when it's all back together.
It would make me very happy if I don't have to re-core my radiator and if I
don't later find my temp needle lying in the bottom of the case.
My recommendation is that you need to know exactly what temperature the temp
bulb is seeing before you can reposition the needle to an accurate setting.
Boiling water at sea level provides a convenient "fixed" point, but I guess
you could use any temperature within the range of the gauge as long as you
can compare with another accurate thermometer. The boiling point is the
important one, though. If you just pull off the needle and reposition it to
sit on the peg, you don't really know what you've done to the accuracy of
the instrument.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: healey (E-mail) <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 2:39 PM
Subject: Safety Gauge
> To reset my temp gauge (doesn't return to 90) remind
> me why I would not just pull off the trim bezel, take
> out the glass, pull the needle and reinstall it in the
> correct position.
>
> Dean BN7 (Planning to drive to Monterey for the
> historics and would like to see the real temp)
> Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 21:59:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Additional cooling fan when engine not running?
Anyway, the bottom line remains. An electric fan on the
radiator is going to take a long time to be effective at cooling
the engine block if the water isn't being circulated.
Here's a suggestion: Run an experiment. Try running your car
on a hot day, and watch how warm the engine gets... but do it in
your yard with the radiator open top and bottom and add fresh
water (slowly) from a hose... (if you are adding too much water
the car could run really cold because of the continuous addition
of fresh cool water... so add the water at a slow enough pace to
allow the engine to come up to something like 140degrees or
so...)
Then stop the engine, and keep adding fresh (cool) water to the
radiator. You'll see the registered water temperature rise...
(it won't rise quite as high as the water inside the block,
because the thermocouple that measures the water temp is near
the fresh water supply... but the cool water from the radiator
will not get the engine temp to drop (mostly because the now
stopped water pump is now acting like a nearly-closed water
valve. Once you restart the engine... the temp will suddenly
drop again.
Good debates though... I like your thought process.
Thanks
-skip-
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 22:11:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge; and follow-up to radiator re-coring thread
> My recommendation is that you need to know exactly what temperature the temp
> bulb is seeing before you can reposition the needle to an accurate setting.
> Boiling water at sea level provides a convenient "fixed" point, but I guess
> you could use any temperature within the range of the gauge as long as you
> can compare with another accurate thermometer. The boiling point is the
> important one, though. If you just pull off the needle and reposition it
> to
> sit on the peg, you don't really know what you've done to the accuracy of
> the instrument.
>
>
If it is inaccurate at 212 is it reasonable to assume that this inaccuracy is
constant throughout the guage's range?
To be conclusive I think that you would need to take readings at where the
needle comes off the lower peg, at each mark on the guage and ultimately put
the car in a pressure chamber to raise the boiling so that you can get up to
the high peg for your final measurement and then interpolate the results.
Alternatively, you could just ignore the guage and keep on driving, like we
both did from Ocean City to Tahoe and back!
Best--Michael
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From john lakie <doelakie at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 19:19:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: o/d drain plug
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:31:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge; and follow-up to radiator re-coring thread
I take your second paragraph to be tongue-in-cheek, but accuracy throughout
the range doesn't really matter. All we really need is to have confidence
that when the needle gets to 212, the coolant is in fact close to boiling!
It's the part of the gauge higher than 212 that we need to be concerned about,
and I saw the needle at and above that too many times (and I was CONCERNED!)
..... accuracy of low and intermediate temperatures isn't as significant, and
I guess that's why most modern cars don't bother with numbers on the temp
gauge anyway.
I kept on driving, but I couldn't ignore the gauge (maybe another use for duct
tape?)
Cheers!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: byers@cconnect.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2002 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge; and follow-up to radiator re-coring thread
If it is inaccurate at 212 is it reasonable to assume that this inaccuracy
is constant throughout the guage's range?
To be conclusive I think that you would need to take readings at where the
needle comes off the lower peg, at each mark on the guage and ultimately put
the car in a pressure chamber to raise the boiling so that you can get up to
the high peg for your final measurement and then interpolate the results.
Alternatively, you could just ignore the guage and keep on driving, like we
both did from Ocean City to Tahoe and back!
Best--Michael
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:01:11 EDT
Subject: Re: "Reply to All" please
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 23:51:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge; and follow-up to radiator re-coring thread
CB
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:03:28 -0700
Subject: Wiring Diagram BJ8 phase 2
So there I was on my 5th cup of coffee, trying to pull my wiring harness
out. Labeling as I went, using the wiring diagram in the manual as a double
check. You might say I was doubley wired. Tracing a black line in the book,
finding the code, putting my finger on the line so as not to loose my spot
and looking on the next page to see what the code translated to. "Wow,
wouldn't it be cool if this was bigger? yeah, and in color. YEAH! So I
scanned the book and traced all the wires and printed it out on 13" x 19"
paper. Now what to do. Sell it? Nah. Give it away? Why not. It's in Adobe
Illustrator, if you don't have the program, most print shops like Kinko's
can print it out for you. The file is a about 1.5M uncompressed or 190K
zipped. If your interested, drop me a line. No color code please.
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at attglobal.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 23:44:55 -0500
Subject: O/D Drain Plug Wrench
I bought a custom made wrench to turn the "big brass plug" on the bottom
of the A type Overdrive from:
http://www.britishtool.com
I also acquired an "adjustable hook spanner wrench" which works pretty
well. See:
http://www.armstrongtools.com/catalog/products.jsp?groupID=863
A low cost option might be this set of adjustable spanner wrenches (I
can't comment on quality or function since I don't have these):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41243
brgds, Jay Holekamp
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 21:03:30 -0700
Subject: RE: "Reply to All" please
At the request of Mark, I have recapped the emails sent to me pertaining to
the fender install thread. My question was "What have people done in the
past to insulate the steel/aluminum contact between shroud and fender?"
Putty tape sold by Victoria British
Epoxy primer or top coat
Black gooey stuff that Bill Bolton sold. It looks like asphalt tar.
butyl strip caulking that is used around roof openings in RVs but it's quite
messy.
"dum dum" strip caulk. "I found that if you lightly press it on to the flange
on the shroud, then hold the waxed paper over it then you can roll it flat
without it sticking to the roller. I bought a cheap small roller at a
hardware store which I think they use in flattening seams when wall paper
hanging."
I would stay away from silicone, much harder to clean up and it might affect
your paint.
I think I have roll of the CORRECT material in stock. Ed "Scotch Tape"
With regard to the Dynamat Extreme, I must clarify that I consider the
entire foot area the "pedal box" I know that's not accurate. What Jerry was
saying was to put the Dyna on the outside of the scuttle side assembly. Part
#19 page 186 of your Moss catalog. Under the 3 holed bracket that supports
the hinge pillar.
Thanks again,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:33:33 -0400
Subject: hylomar
Thanks again,
Carroll
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 13:35:52 +0100
Subject: Change of part spec from AH Spares (UK)
I thought you might be interested in this response from AH spares re the
rubber strip alongside the carbs. Thanks to you Listers, and the
Anderson/Moment book, I was able to raise this issue with confidence!
In message <NEBBLIPCALJPLNIELJFIEEMACOAA.ahspares@dial.pipex.com>, A H
Spares <ahspares@dial.pipex.com> writes
>Dear Mr. Cross,
> Thank you for looking into this matter for us. We have now changed the
>length to 26" for future stock. Thank you for pointing this out and we hope
>that we can be of assistance in the future.
>Kind regards,
>Jon
>
>A H Spares
>Visit our website www.ahspares.co.uk for
>secure online ordering facility.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Alan F Cross [mailto:alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk]
>Sent: 04 August 2002 12:56
>To: ahspares@dial.pipex.com
>Subject: FAO Jonathan Hill - re BON125, 126, 127
>
>
>Jon,
>
>We had a conversation at the AH50 event, about bonnet buffers and rubber
>strips.
>
>I can now confirm that the strip (BON 125) should be about 26 inches
>long. Page 82 of the Anderson/Moment book says:
>
>"When the MkIIs were introduced, the middle buffer was also deleted and
>the rubber strip was lengthened to 26 inches..."
>
>Then, on page 153, referring to the BJ8, it says:
>
>"Even though the model had reverted to two carburettors, the same
>26-inch-long rubber sealing strip as on the MkII roadsters was pressed
>onto the left hand lip of the hood opening."
>
>The strip on my BJ8 measures 26 1/4 inches. The one you offered me was
>several inches shorter than this. I'd be interested in your comments and
>to hear whether you might be modifying the length of this part.
>
>Another minor point, on part BON126, although the part is correct, you
>have it illustrated "outside in" - the part is fitted with the hole
>towards the engine, and the head of the rivet (BON 227) is on the engine
>side, the legs being peened over inside the rubber fold against a
>washer, in the rain channel.
>
>I hope this is of some help. And thanks for the support from AH Spares
>for our event, which was a resounding success!
>
>Best regards....
>--
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
>
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:59:50 -0400
Subject: Speaking of Special Tools...
Bob Johnson
66 BJ8
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:46:15 -0500
Subject: Re: "Reply to All" please
Mark
> don't like to talk about my book of tech. articles would somebody tell him
,
> i think it would help him , Norman Nock. Thank you .
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 08:19:55 -0600
Subject: RE: hylomar
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: bjcap [mailto:bjcap@frontiernet.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 6:34 AM
Subject: hylomar
Thanks to all who replied to the fuel sending gasket sealer thread, can I
get the permatex product number please ? It was given in Napa form, but I
have access to order from local parts store so need Perm part #.
Thanks again,
Carroll
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 09:16:53 -0400
Subject: Re: O/D Drain Plug Wrench
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp@attglobal.net>
To: "john lakie" <doelakie@yahoo.com>
Cc: "TR List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 12:44 AM
Subject: O/D Drain Plug Wrench
> John,
> Last year I decided to find the right tools to turn the notched brass
> drain plug on the bottom of the A type overdrive with these results:
>
> I bought a custom made wrench to turn the "big brass plug" on the bottom
> of the A type Overdrive from:
> http://www.britishtool.com
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 08:17:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
The threaded screw with the large slot that you found on top of the steering
box is the adjustment screw for the steering gear - it tightens / loosens
the cam and peg arrangement. There is also a locking nut for the screw.
You don't want to mess with that unless the steering needs adjustment - it's
a pretty picky thing to get just right!
The oil fill plug is the hex head bolt slightly higher up (to the rear of
the car) on the cover. It should have a sealing washer under the head. It
is much larger than the other (cover mounting) bolts, and, if memory serves,
is a Whitworth size. I usually am able to find something metric that will
fit it. With a bit of fiddling, an adjustable wrench will work. Simply
fill it 'till it overflows.
While you're at it, check the oil level in the steering idler box on the
right side - its easy - the square plug on the top cover is what to remove.
No washer there, it's a tapered plug. I have always added a bit of
Moly-slip to both boxes - they use gear oil, same as what goes into the
diff.
Ain't it fun!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 5:59 AM
Subject: Speaking of Special Tools...
Since my car is running again, it occurred to me to check the oil level in
the
steering gear box. Checked my Haynes manual to make sure I was going to the
right place. Haynes showed a nice plug that was made to grab from the side.
Super! Went to car and found instead, a threaded plug with a large
screwdriver
slot. In order to get the *great, big Craftsman more pry bar than
screwdriver*
into the groove I would have to remove several large body parts and duct
work
and still not have a straight shot at the screw plug. Is this my unique
problem or have other had it, and how have you solved it? I am not wild
about
grabbing the side of the plug with pliers of some sort and really messing up
the threads.
Bob Johnson
66 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 11:41:06 EDT
Subject: BN1 ignition switch
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 09:15:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge - keeping the water boiling...
Just make sure your insurance is paid up!
Dean BN7
> ...cooling of the
> pan from stove to garage was enough to make the
> gauge register 212 when it
> was actually measuring something less than that,
> even though I tried to keep
> the water boiling throughout with a propane torch...
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 11:08:45 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 ignition switch
It sounds to me as if you had a quite different switch in your '54.
-Roland
On Tue, 6 Aug 2002 11:41:06 EDT, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
:: My ignition switch was faulty so I bought a new one--a modern replacement
:: with slip-on type connectors rather than the two holes threaded for screws.
:: I was told that the portion that is operated by the key (the part that
:: rotates and actuates the switch innnards) was held in by a little
:: spring-loaded dot thingie that I would access via a hole when the switch was
:: in the "on" position. However, upon removing the OLD switch from the dash I
:: found that the shaft went thru the back of the switch and is held on by a
:: nut. It looks like I could drill a hole in the rear of the modern
:: replacement and insert the working portion but I wonder if my car used a
:: different configuration switch than what I have purchased--my car was built
:: in 12/54--BN1L222333. Anyone got any info?
::
:: Best--Michael Oritt
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 11:10:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge - keeping the water boiling...
-Roland
On Tue, 6 Aug 2002 09:15:31 -0700 (PDT), Dean Caccavo
<healeybn7@yahoo.com> wrote:
:: Steve,
:: In the past I have done this by using a small camping
:: stove. Picture this: Hood up - way up. Towels on the
:: fenders. Plywood over the engine compartment and the
:: camp stove a burnin'.
::
:: Just make sure your insurance is paid up!
::
:: Dean BN7
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:24:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
Bob Johnson
66 BJ8
> Bob:
>
> The threaded screw with the large slot that you found on top of the
steering
> box is the adjustment screw for the steering gear ...
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:37:52 EDT
Subject: Re: o/d drain plug
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 16:17:19 -0700
Subject: Fw: How to Bathe a Cat ! (I JUST HAD TOO SEND THIS)
Sorry gang, I just had to forward this.
If you're not sitting down, (you had better),
as you're going to fall down laughing.
Kirk :-)
:-)
How toBathe a
Cat
1. Thoroughly Clean The Toilet
2. Add the required amount of shampoo to the toilet water and put both lids
up.
3. Pick up the cat and soothe it while you carry it towards the bathroom.
4. In one smooth movement, put the cat in the toilet and close both lids.
You may need to stand on the lid so it cannot escape.
The cat will self agitate and make ample suds.
Never mind the noise that comes from your toilet.
The cat is actually enjoying this.
5. Flush the toilet three or four times.
This provides a b power washb andb rinseb which I have found to
be quite effective.
6. Have someone open the door to the outside and ensure, that there are
no people
between the toilet and the outside door.
7. Stand behind the toilet as far as you can, and quickly lift both
lids.
8. The now clean cat will rocket out of the toilet, and run outside
where it will
dry itself.
Sincerely
The Dog
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 17:11:14 -0700
Subject: BJ8 float settings
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 17:17:38 -0700
Subject: stuck wheel adjustment-fixed
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 20:13:20 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 float settings
It's 7/16
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Freese, Ken <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 8:11 PM
Subject: BJ8 float settings
> What is the correct height for HD8 float settings? The new carbs I got
were
> set to 1/2 inch. I think it should be 7/16, but the Healey manual is a bit
> confusing on it. For some reason, I had the old carb Grose jets set to
5/16.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 21:08:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
I just removed the steering box filler plug yesterday -- a 3/4-inch socket
fits it just fine. I'm giving the Penrite lube from Jon McLeroy a try,
since my steering box began leaking during the trip home from Tahoe.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Bob Johnson <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
> Bob:
>
> The threaded screw with the large slot that you found on top of the
steering
> box is the adjustment screw for the steering gear - it tightens / loosens
> the cam and peg arrangement. There is also a locking nut for the screw.
> You don't want to mess with that unless the steering needs adjustment -
it's
> a pretty picky thing to get just right!
>
> The oil fill plug is the hex head bolt slightly higher up (to the rear of
> the car) on the cover. It should have a sealing washer under the head.
It
> is much larger than the other (cover mounting) bolts, and, if memory
serves,
> is a Whitworth size. I usually am able to find something metric that will
> fit it. With a bit of fiddling, an adjustable wrench will work. Simply
> fill it 'till it overflows.
>
> While you're at it, check the oil level in the steering idler box on the
> right side - its easy - the square plug on the top cover is what to
remove.
> No washer there, it's a tapered plug. I have always added a bit of
> Moly-slip to both boxes - they use gear oil, same as what goes into the
> diff.
>
> Ain't it fun!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 19:18:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
> From: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
> Reply-To: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
> Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:10:14 -0400
> To: "'John New'" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
> Cc: "Healey-List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: Valve Adjustments
>
> John,
>
> I just did my valves with a click-adjust tool. I found it very easy to use
> and relatively quick. I used the following method:
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 20:13:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
I guess it's the adjusting screw lock nut that's Whitworth - I know one of
them is weird! Thanks for the heads-up.
Good luck with the leak. I know that some people have filled the steering
box with grease when they got tired of re-filling a leaking box. I'm not
sure that I'd recommend that to anyone, with a cam-and-peg steering system.
The inevitable fact is that you wind up eventually doing a re-build anyway
to solve the problem!
Keep Tarheely healthy, cheers, ---------- Earl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
Hi, Earl -
I just removed the steering box filler plug yesterday -- a 3/4-inch socket
fits it just fine. I'm giving the Penrite lube from Jon McLeroy a try,
since my steering box began leaking during the trip home from Tahoe.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
To: Bob Johnson <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: Speaking of Special Tools...
> Bob:
>
> The threaded screw with the large slot that you found on top of the
steering
> box is the adjustment screw for the steering gear - it tightens / loosens
> the cam and peg arrangement. There is also a locking nut for the screw.
> You don't want to mess with that unless the steering needs adjustment -
it's
> a pretty picky thing to get just right!
>
> The oil fill plug is the hex head bolt slightly higher up (to the rear of
> the car) on the cover. It should have a sealing washer under the head.
It
> is much larger than the other (cover mounting) bolts, and, if memory
serves,
> is a Whitworth size. I usually am able to find something metric that will
> fit it. With a bit of fiddling, an adjustable wrench will work. Simply
> fill it 'till it overflows.
>
> While you're at it, check the oil level in the steering idler box on the
> right side - its easy - the square plug on the top cover is what to
remove.
> No washer there, it's a tapered plug. I have always added a bit of
> Moly-slip to both boxes - they use gear oil, same as what goes into the
> diff.
>
> Ain't it fun!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 01:01:45 -0400
Subject: Wiper wheel boxes
Ken Mason
BJ7 someday
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
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From John New <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 07 Aug 2002 01:01:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
A Clik-adjust is a tool, made by Gunson, that replaces the
wrench-and-feeler-gauge approach to adjusting valves. It is essentially
a micrometer and wrench built into one. The wrench loosens the locking
nut on the adjusting screw; the micrometer turns the adjusting screw and
is calibrated to emit an audible click every 1/30th of a revolution.
Once you figure out how many clicks it takes to set your valve gap (with
feeler-gauges - ok, so you have to use them one last time :-)), you no
longer need the feeler gauges to adjust the valves. You can read about
it at http://www.mgcars.org.uk/electrical/Clikadjust_0.html.
I purchased mine from the Little British Car Company, www.lbcarco.com.
They were great to deal with and I would deal with them again (I have no
affiliation, etc.). Moss also sells them.
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Tue, 2002-08-06 at 22:18, Steve Gerow wrote:
> What is a click-adjust tool and where do you get it?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
> > Reply-To: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
> > Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:10:14 -0400
> > To: "'John New'" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
> > Cc: "Healey-List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: RE: Valve Adjustments
> >
> > John,
> >
> > I just did my valves with a click-adjust tool. I found it very easy to use
> > and relatively quick. I used the following method:
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2002 23:12:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <sgerow@singular.com>
Cc: "Healey-List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustments
> What is a click-adjust tool and where do you get it?
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Pasadena CA
> 59 BN6
>
> > From: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
> > Reply-To: Andy Phillips <AndyP@cylogix.com>
> > Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 15:10:14 -0400
> > To: "'John New'" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
> > Cc: "Healey-List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: RE: Valve Adjustments
> >
> > John,
> >
> > I just did my valves with a click-adjust tool. I found it very easy to
use
> > and relatively quick. I used the following method:
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from the "weep hole" on the bottom of the bell housing. Pulled the
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:45:57 EDT
Subject: Oil leak
TIA
Bob
BJ7 & BN2(almost)
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 07:51:18 -0700
Subject: RE: Valve Adjustments
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 11:55:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leak
<< It runs down the back side of the plate and originates at the crank shaft/
bearing cap area. Space is tight and I can't see exactly.
Any suggestions?
There is an aftermarket rear main seal kit and I have used this on a six cyl.
engine but the one for a four cyl. engine requires machining the crank and
bearing cap. If anyone knows of another solution, or other suggestions, I'm
all ears. >>
Sorry to say that you've got the infernal Archimedes Screw weep and the
aftermarket seal is the only fix for it. It does require machining on the
four-cylinder engine.
Like most British cars of the period (e.g. my MGA which has the same problem
under racing conditions) the Healey engine is designed to minimize leakage
around the drive shaft at rear of the engine with a "reverse Archimedes
screw" (named for the Greek who designed a screw pump to get water up out of
wells). On the engine, the theory is that with only a thou clearance between
the shaft and the rear of the block, the shaft can get some lubrication to
keep from wearing the engine block, but the oil seeping around the shaft will
encounter the screw, which will spin it back into the sump.
On yours, the clearance has probably widened over the decades this engine has
been running, and the screw is no longer adequate to force the oil back.
Incidentally, as a back-up to the back-up, the little cotter pin hanging in
the bellhousing hole is there to keep the hole from getting clogged up, so
that oil that does seep through will have a place to drip out, rather than
building up to the point where the flywheel starts throwing it on the clutch
plate. So of course you wouldn't want to plug up that little hole.
More info than you probably wanted, but I thought I'd warm up my typing
fingers first thing this morning.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
The only American magazine for British car enthusiasts
www.BritishCar.com
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 12:10:55 -0400
Subject: Re: hylomar
(I went to my shop to check out my tube.. and discovered that I
had none in stock... so I guess it is off to my local store for
my own supply too...:-) )
-skip-
bjcap wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who replied to the fuel sending gasket sealer thread, can I
> get the permatex product number please ? It was given in Napa form, but I
> have access to order from local parts store so need Perm part #.
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 12:23:48 -0400
Subject: more on hylomar
users ( & non-users) of hylomar might find this site interesting
http://igscorp.com/hylomar.htm
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 10:01:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge - Fixed!!
So, now that I saved $100 on a gauge rebuild, what
should I buy??? hummmm
Dean - BN7
--- Charley Braum <cbaustin@sgi.net> wrote:
> That's a plan it you're sure it's reading
> correctly at 212 (H20 boiling
> point). If so, just be careful that you don't bend
> the stem, or distort the
> spring attached internally.
>
> Good luck,
>
> CB
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 13:39:03 -0400
Subject: Re: more on hylomar
They also make gaskets and seals; we get all our gasket material there
as well as gasket cutting kits and supplies. They do make 'specials' for odd
applications also.
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 13:41:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge - Fixed!!
CB
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 13:43:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Safety Gauge - Fixed!! Now let's solve the Hylomar (nt)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 13:50:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leak
> Sorry to say that you've got the infernal Archimedes Screw weep and the
> aftermarket seal is the only fix for it. It does require machining on the
> four-cylinder engine.
>
>
I had this seal added and my engine no longer leaks oil from the rear--still
a wee bit around the front though!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Mr. Finespanner" <MrFinespanner at prodigy.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 14:55:55 -0500
Subject: 100 oil leak
>Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:45:57 EDT
>From: HealeyBJ7@aol.com
>Subject: Oil leak
>Completely rebuilt a 4 cly engine with all new bearings etc., etc., etc.
>Have a major oil leak from the "weep hole" on the bottom of the bell
>housing.
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From john_burton at aschulman.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 16:24:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Front Oil leak
The front leak often occurs from the front Crank seal. I fixed mine by
modifying the inside of the timing cover to accept a rubber spring seal
just like the later cars, (My TR3 ) uses. I also made a sleeve to fit over
the crank diameter which rides in the bore of the seal,,again no leaks.
All I have to do no is fix all the other leaks !
Johnb
1960 TR3A
1954 BN1
Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent by: To: Editorgary@aol.com,
HealeyBJ7@aol.com,
owner-healeys@auto Healeys@autox.team.net
x.team.net cc:
Subject: Re: Oil leak
08/07/02 01:50 PM
Please respond to
Awgertoo
In a message dated 8/7/02 12:05:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
> Sorry to say that you've got the infernal Archimedes Screw weep and the
> aftermarket seal is the only fix for it. It does require machining on
the
> four-cylinder engine.
>
>
I had this seal added and my engine no longer leaks oil from the
rear--still
a wee bit around the front though!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 15:29:25 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Wiper wheel boxes
Alan BJ8L/34297 (Aint-it-fun)
> I am working on the windshield wiper motor and the related spring
> driven gear train. In looking at the wheel boxes, there appears to be
> a seal just under the spline where the blade arm attaches. Both seals
> are only a memory. Have any of you replaced these seals, and if so
> where can they be secured? To replace them, the spline or the gear on
> the opposite shaft end need to be removed. Which one? They both look
> to be pressed onto splined shaft ends that are then peined over. How
> about wheel box shaft lubrication? Any help will be appreciated.
>
> Ken Mason
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:21:43 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil leak
The real cause of the leakage is not oil running out, but air escaping
from the crankcase and carrying oil with it.
The theory is that you use a little of the engine vacuum to evacuate the
crankcase and by so doing you reverse the air flow through the rear main
seal.
The volume of air flow required to evacuate the crankcase to a pressure
slightly below atmospheric is relatively small and can easily be
compensated for by installing needles with a slightly richer mixture at
idle.
It worked for me but this is not something for the person who doesn't
have some idea of what he is doing.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyBJ7@aol.com
Sent: 7-Aug-02 9:46 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil leak
This is my first posting to the list and I hope it hasn,t been throughly
discussed before. I tried the archives and had no luck. Completely
rebuilt a
4 cly engine with all new bearings etc., etc., etc. Have a major oil
leak
from the "weep hole" on the bottom of the bell housing. Pulled the
transmission and flywheel, pan and rear engine plate. Removed the rear
main
bearing cap to reinspect the bearing and oil thrower (screw threads on
the
back of the crank). Re-assembeled being extra careful with the felt
dowels
and using flang sealer on the surfaces between the bearing cap and the
block.
Started engin without the tranny in and still have a leak. Everything
warmed,
engine at 1100 - 1500RPM, oil pressure at 55psi and oil drips off the
bottom
of plate at 10 drops per min.
It runs down the back side of the plate and originates at the crank
shaft/
bearing cap area. Space is tight and I can't see exactly.
Any suggestions?
There is an aftermarket rear main seal kit and I have used this on a six
cyl.
engine but the one for a four cyl. engine requires machining the crank
and
bearing cap. If anyone knows of another solution, or other suggestions,
I'm
all ears.
TIA
Bob
BJ7 & BN2(almost)
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 19:53:46 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leak
I have done this on several more conventional engines & it worked well.
How do you make a vacuum connection to a Hundred Four & what specific
PCV valve do you use.
Dave Russell
BN2
Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Although this may seem a little academic I had a similar with a Healey
> race engine and to get through the season I installed a PCV (positive
> crankcase ventilation system) which completely eliminated the oil
> leakage.
>
> The volume of air flow required to evacuate the crankcase to a pressure
> slightly below atmospheric is relatively small and can easily be
> compensated for by installing needles with a slightly richer mixture at
> idle.
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From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at earthlink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:00:20 -0400
Subject: 2003 Activity Info
Can someone(s) please fill in the blanks below:
Encounter 2003
Dates:
Place:
For more info contact:
National Rally (Australia) 2003
Dates:
Place:
For more info contact:
Texas Healey Roundup 2003
Dates:
Place:
For more info contact:
Healey Weekend (UK) 2003
Dates:
Place:
For more info contact:
Thanks!
Reid Trummel
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:07:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leak
> How do you make a vacuum connection to a Hundred Four & what specific
> PCV valve do you use.
>
>
I thought that the downward-facing tube that comes off the left side of the
block was just that--a crankcase vent. NO?
Best--Michael Oritt
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 19:13:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Suspension for the winding road
A little background - I haven't spent much time
driving Big Healeys so I'm not exactly sure how my BT7
(Oct '59 build) will feel after I finish restoring
it. I bought it as a non runner.
Question: With an early six cyl car, does the
handling seem "out of balance" while driving
aggressively when compared to a later BT7 or BJ7? The
reason I ask is that, in June 1960, the factory
upgraded front springs to a stiffer coil. I'm
assuming this mod was only to improve handling and not
prevent "bottoming".
So I think I can modify/improve(?) my front end two
different ways:
1) Later, (stiffer) front coils with the orig sway
bar.
2) My original (softer) coils with a larger dia front
sway bar.
What is the best compromise in keeping with more
modern handling concepts? I do plan to drive bumpy
roads by the way...
More questions: If I do install new coils will I need
new rear springs to level the car? I've heard new
leaf springs have much variation, are very stiff, and
hope not to change 'em. Also, I have a foggy
recollection of a guy racing a lowered light green BT7
at a Sears Point vintage race (now called something
else!) who felt soft at the rear made for the best
handling. Does that ring a bell with anyone?
Thanks for any answers to some confusing questions.
I've owned 3 great handling MGA's (still have a '56)
and hope to improve the handling a wee bit on my
someday to be reborn BT7.
Joe Mulqueen
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 20:24:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leak
A positive crankcase vent system requires a connection to controlled
engine vacuum to draw crankcase air into the engine, thus a connection
to the intake manifold with a control (PCV) valve.
What we are trying to do is cause a negative crankcase pressure to
prevent oil from exiting the rear seal.
The downward facing tube is just a vent in the crankcase to allow excess
pressure to escape.
Regards,
Dave Russell
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I thought that the downward-facing tube that comes off the left side
> of the block was just that--a crankcase vent. NO?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:32:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leak
But, if the crankcase vent pipe/hose is connected to one of the air cleaners,
as it is supposed to be, doesn't that alone create a slight negative pressure
without using any sort of PCV valve?
Dick Hosmer
62 BT7L18556
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 20:44:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leak
The connection to the air cleaner provides virtually no negative
pressure. The pressure drop across the air filter is the only negative
pressure & unless the air filter was completely plugged there would no
useful negative pressure. The connection to the air filter is mostly a
place for excess crankcase pressure & fumes to reenter the engine to be burned.
Dave Russell
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> But, if the crankcase vent pipe/hose is connected to one of the air cleaners,
> as it is supposed to be, doesn't that alone create a slight negative pressure
> without using any sort of PCV valve?
>
> Dick Hosmer
> 62 BT7L18556
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:08:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil leak
Mark
Nashville BN1
What we are trying to do is cause a negative crankcase pressure to
prevent oil from exiting the rear seal.
The downward facing tube is just a vent in the crankcase to allow excess
pressure to escape.
Regards,
Dave Russell
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I thought that the downward-facing tube that comes off the left side
> of the block was just that--a crankcase vent. NO?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 23:29:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil leak
Check page 98 of Norm Nocks Tech Tip book and he has a tech article on how to
do it. Anyone tried Norms way?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:52:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil leak
Dave & Marlene wrote:
> Dick,
>
> The connection to the air cleaner provides virtually no negative
> pressure. The pressure drop across the air filter is the only negative
> pressure & unless the air filter was completely plugged there would no
> useful negative pressure. The connection to the air filter is mostly a
> place for excess crankcase pressure & fumes to reenter the engine to be
>burned.
>
> Dave Russell
>
> RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Listers,
> >
> > But, if the crankcase vent pipe/hose is connected to one of the air
>cleaners,
> > as it is supposed to be, doesn't that alone create a slight negative
>pressure
> > without using any sort of PCV valve?
> >
> > Dick Hosmer
> > 62 BT7L18556
>
> /
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2002 22:45:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil leak
There is no natural suction or, at least very little, created by the
rotating assembly. Any small suction from this source would be
completely overshadowed by the combustion pressure which leaks past the rings.
It is true that the air cleaner connection provides a path for
ventilation air to enter the engine. The exit for the air is the block
vent tube (road draft tube) which is thought to provide a small amount
of suction on the crankcase by virtue of its diagonally cut exit being
in the car's air stream. This old system never did work very well &
certainly does not provide enough suction to overcome gasses leaking by
the piston rings & still keep a negative pressure on the crankcase to
prevent oil leakage.
If there was "natural suction created by the rotating assembly" then
there would be no "excess pressure to be evacuated out the block vent
tube" Or are you saying that the rotating assembly pulls air in at one
end & pushes it out of the other end. If so, I don't know why a rotating
assembly would be directional to the extent that it would pull in from
the air cleaner & push out at the block vent tube
More modern systems use an intake manifold connection to suck on the
crankcase & to draw a little air in through the air cleaner connection.
You could connect the block vent through a PCV, as you say, IF the other
side of the PCV valve was connected to the intake manifold. A variation
of this is what Michael Salter & I were discussing.
On some drag race cars a crankcase extractor system is plumbed into a
negative pressure region in the exhaust header. This is used mainly
because at full throttle there is no manifold vacuum to use in the
conventional manner. It would not work at all on a street engine.
Dave Russell
BN2
cyfied wrote:
>
> I thought the air cleaner connection was filtering the air being pulled into
>the
> engine by the natural suction created by the rotating assembly? Then the
>excess
> pressure is evacuated out the block vent tube. So by using the block vent and
> helping the process with a little vacuum this should reduce the pressure on
>the
> seals. An other method is to add a drag tube to the exhaust pipe. Connect the
>block
> vent through a PCV. The exhaust passing the added tube acts as a vacuum.
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 22:47:05 -0700
Subject: Oil leaks 100
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 02:33:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: I'd like to uprate the Brakes on my early BN1
Any suggestions on how to uprate the brakes without
changing the set up on my early '53 spiral bevel BN1?
Ideally, I'm looking simply for brake shoes with
uprated/road rally brake pad material. Does anyone
have these or can I have my shoes done by anyone?
I like the BN1 as it is (it's very light with the
spiral bevel axle) - but I'd like to improve braking
response and reduce the brake fade on the car - the
fade comes rather quickly after moderate amounts of
hard braking.
Also, do I need to do anything with the drums? how do
I check for wear and if they are worn what do I do
with them?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 12:47:59 +0000
Subject: On the road again...
Now, my wife and I are hurrying through dinner each
night so we can take turns driving around town. Good to
be back!
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:10:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
Your being a cabinet-maker explains how you may have gotten 'glued to
the screen'.
I thought (and I'll be corrected, I'm sure) that the downward movement
of the pistons, on the intake stroke (4 stroke engines only) created a
vacuum that 'pulled' the air-fuel mixture into the cylinder, through the
intake manifold, carburetors and air cleaners (in reverse order). At this
point there would be a slight pull on the rings as well.
However, the rings separate the two parts of the engine into the
explosion area and the power transfer-lubrication area. Are these two
'systems' supposed to exchange gasses?
Since at least one piston is on the intake stroke at almost all times,
there is a relatively constant vacuum in the intake manifold. A PCV valve
regulates the flow into the intake manifold so it is relatively constant,
maintaining the pressures on both sides of that valve.
However, due to some blow-by across the rings, there is easily a slight
positive pressure in the crankcase. The vent tube is to relieve that. There
should be no great 'exchange of air' between these two 'systems'.
I'm not sure that the cut on the vent tube would create any pressure
drop, especially at the speeds these cars achieve, and more importantly, the
fact that the tube is not in the streamlined flow at the outer edge of the
body. I would think that this cut might have been intended to 'pull gasses'
from the crankcase due to the prior experience of automotive engineers of
that day with early aircraft (DMH especially)(pitot-static tubes).
One more note on the crankcase vent - in a perfect world there would be
no gas getting past the rings, however the simple fact of oil pressure and
increasing, and/or constant, temperature in the oil/oil vapor atmosphere of
the crankcase would increase the pressure slightly and thus require venting.
Sorry, let it fly,
CB
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From "Dorin" <dorin.oprea at alcatel.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 8 Aug 2002 09:21:22 -0400
Subject: Tire wearing
The problem is tire excessive wearing towards the inside of the car on
Lexus RX300. I suppose the cause to be the alignment. The question is
whether this is covered by the warranty program (there are only 24K km)
and if the dealer should do the alignment and also change the tires?
I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Dorin
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:16:05 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Erratic Tach
A couple of weeks ago I promised info on the BJ8 electronic tach. I haven't
forgotten....I've been in bed for two weeks. For some unknown reason or
injury, I've had terrible, almost debilitating shoulder pain. Doctors have
no clue what's wrong. So I've been heavily drugged up, and doing basically
nothing. I slowly seem to be getting better though, and will return to
normal soon...I hope! I will get that information out to everyone as soon as
I can.
Sorry for the delay.
Dave Masucci
BJ8
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:52:59 EDT
Subject: Healey in commercial
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:59:04 EDT
Subject: Re: I'd like to uprate the Brakes on my early BN1
> (it's very light with the spiral bevel axle)
>
Light? Have you ever had to lift one of those puppies? I've called them many
things, but never light.
A non-original fix that I have done on my '53 BN1 ( #484 ) is to replace the
single-chamber master cylinder with a dual-chambered one from a VW. It now
has separate front and back brake systems and much improved braking.
Carroll
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:00:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
Ideally, there would be zero exchange, as you note below, but...
> Since at least one piston is on the intake stroke at almost all times,
> there is a relatively constant vacuum in the intake manifold. A PCV valve
> regulates the flow into the intake manifold so it is relatively constant,
> maintaining the pressures on both sides of that valve.
...more than that, it makes it possible to have a very slight vacuum in the
crankcase, which you can readily see in the case of the engine under
discussion, would be a Good Thing.
> One more note on the crankcase vent - in a perfect world there
> would be no gas getting past the rings, however the simple fact of oil
> pressure and increasing, and/or constant, temperature in the oil/oil vapor
> atmosphere of the crankcase would increase the pressure slightly and thus
> require venting.
Yes, but -- and here's the key -- venting to the atmosphere isn't sufficient.
What's needed is a closed system, in which the PCV valve helps maintain that
very slight vacuum in the crankcase.
--
John Miller
Ex-BJ8 pilot
Hotlanta
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:45:09 EDT
Subject: Re: I'd like to uprate the Brakes on my early BN1
The Oregon Healey Club Newsletter always carries an ad for uprated brake
shoes. Reportedly better stopping power and impervious to oil. I can't seem
to find a copy now (it's a great newsletter by the way).
Maybe someone could share the details and their experiences?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:07:32 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
As a 17 year-old kid, a friend and I tapped into the intake manifold on his
Austin 1100 and connected up a wolf whistle. We cruised down main street and
pulled the dashboard knob to emit a loud wolf whistle to attract the ladies
... as cool as you can be in an Austin 1100, except it acted like a vacuum
brake sending the hydrolastic suspension into a nose dive ... the silly
things kids do :-)
Andy
'67 BJ8 sans wolf whistle
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 09:41:28 -0700
Subject: PCV system
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From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 14:29:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil leaks 100
michael e gougeon wrote:
> This list is fantastic. The rear leak on my 100 is more than Bob
> discribes, but it sounds like there may be hope out there. I was planning
> to remove the engine this winter, line bore and install the seal. I
> haven't dug out Norman's "fix," but I will as soon as I get a chance.
> This makes so much sense to me. I'm a cabinetmaker, so I'll need real
> basic instruction. Meanwhile, I'm glued to my screen.
> Mike Gougeon
> 55BN2
>
> .
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 16:50:04 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
You're in luck, check out http://www.julianos.com/wolfwhistle.html
If you can hook it up to your crankcase as well you can stop oil leaks at
the same time as you wow the ladies!
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com [mailto:Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 2:30 PM
To: Andy Phillips
Cc: Healey-List; owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
Dear Andy,
Do you, or anybody know where I can one of those wolf whistles? That's
right up my alley.
Oh come on, you all know you were thinking the same thing, but didn't want
to be the one to ask. ;-}
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From Bob.H.Walker at Rogers-corp.com
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 13:55:32 -0700
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
I think "hot damn" is the appropriate response.
Thank you ,and best regards,
Bob Walker
Rogers - Advanced Circuit Materials Division - Flexible Products
e-mail: bob.h.walker@rogers-corp.com
Tel: 480-917-5233
FAX: 480-917-5256
Andy Phillips
<AndyP@cylogix To:
"'Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com'" <Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com>
.com> cc: Healey-List
<healeys@autox.team.net>,
owner-healeys@autox.team.net
08/08/2002 Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 &
engine operation
01:50 PM
Bob,
You're in luck, check out http://www.julianos.com/wolfwhistle.html
If you can hook it up to your crankcase as well you can stop oil leaks at
the same time as you wow the ladies!
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com [mailto:Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 2:30 PM
To: Andy Phillips
Cc: Healey-List; owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
Dear Andy,
Do you, or anybody know where I can one of those wolf whistles? That's
right up my alley.
Oh come on, you all know you were thinking the same thing, but didn't want
to be the one to ask. ;-}
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <JBHawkes@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 17:15:09 -0400
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
Since this equipment was available during the complete product lifecycle of
the Austin Healey I think it should be fine for Concours judging. Maybe we
should ask for it to be specifically allowed in the rule book?
All the best and beware of swooners when they hear the whistle (and
rear-enders when you stall the Healey during whistle use!)
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com [mailto:Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 4:56 PM
To: Andy Phillips
Cc: Healey-List; owner-healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Oil leaks 100 & engine operation
Dear Andy,
I think "hot damn" is the appropriate response.
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From "Allan Casavant" <allancas at utinet.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 17:51:53 -0400
Subject: Fw: Think of it!
> > > > YOU THINK A GALLON OF GAS IS EXPENSIVE?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >This makes one think, and puts things in perspective.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Diet Snapple 16 oz $1.29 .........$10.32 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Lipton Ice Tea 16 oz $1.19 ....... $9.52 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Gatorade 20 oz $1.59 ............. $10.17 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Ocean Spray 16 oz $1.25 ......... $10 .00 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Brake Fluid 12 oz $3.15 . $33.60 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Vick's Nyquil 6 oz $8.35 ......... $178.13 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Pepto Bismol 4 oz $3.85 .......... $123.20 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Whiteout 7 oz $1.39 ............... $25.42 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Scope 1.5 oz $0.99 ................. $84.48 per gallon
> > > > > >
> > > > > >And this is the REAL KICKER......
> > > > > >Evian water 9 oz for $1.49 ........ $21.19 per gallon.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >$21.19 FOR WATER! ....And the buyers don't even know the source.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >So, the next time you're at the pump, be glad your car doesn't
run
> on
> > > > > >water, Scope, or Whiteout, or Heaven forbid, PEPTO BISMOL or
> > > > > >NYQUIL!!!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Just a little humor to help ease the pain of your next trip to
the
> > > > > >pump...........!
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:09:24 EDT
Subject: Wolf Whistles in Concours
<< Since this equipment was available during the complete product lifecycle of
the Austin Healey I think it should be fine for Concours judging. Maybe we
should ask for it to be specifically allowed in the rule book? >>
Following concours policies -- accessories that were available from the
Austin-Healey dealer at the time the car was purchased can be accepted
provided that the owner of the car carrying the accessory can produce proof
of the accessory's availability at the time the car was purchased through
such documentation as dealer invoices, dealer catalogs, accessory catalogs,
and magazine advertisements of the period.
The accessory in question must be exactly the same as described in the
advertisement (i.e. it can not be simply an accessory that performs the same
function as the original accessory available at the time. For example, if the
owner can produce an advertisement for the Raydot mirror on his car, he can
have that specific Raydot mirror accepted without deduction; however, he
can't have just any fender mirror on the car)
Therefore, if you can find a period manifold-powered wolf whistle, and an
advertisement for that whistle from the J.C. Whitney catalog of the month the
car was sold, then you are welcome to mount it on your car for concours
without deduction (however, actually demonstrating it while the judges are
judging the engine compartment might be grounds for disqualification,
depending on where the judge's ear was when the whistle was actuated.)
Grins
Gary Anderson
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:43:19 EDT
Subject: Engine vacuum and attracting females
> I tapped into the intake manifold on his
> Austin 1100 and connected up a wolf whistle. We cruised down main street
> and
> pulled the dashboard knob to emit a loud wolf whistle to attract the ladies
> ... as cool as you can be in an Austin 1100, except it acted like a vacuum
> brake sending the hydrolastic suspension into a nose dive ... the silly
> things kids do :-)
>
>
I had one of these rigged into the intake manifold of my first Healey when I
was in college I lived in Miami Beach and would cruise up and down Collins
Avenue trying to pick up girls using the wolf-whistle as an attractant. Boy
did I feel cool but I don't remember getting any girls in the car!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 19:03:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
I lived in Miami Beach and would cruise up and down Collins
> Avenue trying to pick up girls using the wolf-whistle as an attractant.
Boy
> did I feel cool but I don't remember getting any girls in the car!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:27:29 EDT
Subject: Re: I'd like to uprate the Brakes on my early BN1
One recommendation that local Southern California Healey guru Mal Doherty
taught me some years ago is actually something that he learned from the Ford
Model A folks.
Some of you that were at Tahoe may have met Mal or at least have remembered
his car, a modified black '54 BN1 with a custom hard top and the most
noticeable feature, the four seat conversion that he did in the late fifties
to accommodate his kids. You'll be hard pressed to find any Healey let alone
any 100 that runs as smoothly or as well as Mal's car and it stops as well
also.
Mal's recommendation is simply to replace the stock Healey brake linings with
what are called "Woven Segmented Brake Linings" which according to him have
been used by the Model A community for years to improve the braking.
According to Mal, this is the closest thing to installing disc brakes in an
all drum brake car. These linings are sold by the foot and can be bonded to
your stock brake shoes with little difficulty by any good brake shop.
He put me in touch with the local shop in Los Angeles that sells this product
and even though I can't vouch for them personally since my car is not on the
road yet, if Mal recommends them it's good enough for me.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 8/8/02 2:36:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hi -
Any suggestions on how to uprate the brakes without
changing the set up on my early '53 spiral bevel BN1?
Ideally, I'm looking simply for brake shoes with
uprated/road rally brake pad material. Does anyone
have these or can I have my shoes done by anyone?
I like the BN1 as it is (it's very light with the
spiral bevel axle) - but I'd like to improve braking
response and reduce the brake fade on the car - the
fade comes rather quickly after moderate amounts of
hard braking.
Also, do I need to do anything with the drums? how do
I check for wear and if they are worn what do I do
with them?
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8 >>
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 19:50:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
As Mr. Taggert said in 'Blazing Saddles", 'What in the wide, wide world
of sports is a-going on here?".
How is this thread title going to look in the archives??
Keep it up,
CB
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 19:49:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
(He'd get killed by his wife if she knew...!@!@!@... Mike's no
idiot!)
-skip-
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 8/8/02 11:13:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> AndyP@cylogix.com writes:
>
> > I tapped into the intake manifold on his
> > Austin 1100 and connected up a wolf whistle. We cruised down main street
> > and
> > pulled the dashboard knob to emit a loud wolf whistle to attract the ladies
> > ... as cool as you can be in an Austin 1100, except it acted like a vacuum
> > brake sending the hydrolastic suspension into a nose dive ... the silly
> > things kids do :-)
> >
> >
>
> I had one of these rigged into the intake manifold of my first Healey when I
> was in college I lived in Miami Beach and would cruise up and down Collins
> Avenue trying to pick up girls using the wolf-whistle as an attractant. Boy
> did I feel cool but I don't remember getting any girls in the car!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 19:59:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
(OK.. just kidding... I'll get flamed (no pun intended) for that
one for sure ...)
-skip-
(I'm going back to my wine cellar .... and start thinking about
more modifications to Harriet)
Charley Braum wrote:
>
> Now here we've gone from trying to help a fellow lister solve an oil
> leak problem to a (my opinion) intelligent discussion of air flow through
> and around Healey engines and now we've come to this!!!
>
> As Mr. Taggert said in 'Blazing Saddles", 'What in the wide, wide world
> of sports is a-going on here?".
>
> How is this thread title going to look in the archives??
>
> Keep it up,
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:03:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
> How is this thread title going to look in the archives??
>
>
I hang my head in shame....Michael
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:08:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
CB
ps: OK, so where were we???
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:57:10 EDT
Subject: A Question
(Trying to incorporate all current threads into one sentence)
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 21:33:59 -0500
Subject: More shameless commercialism
While you're loading up the engine, you could buy the 5 half shafts I
also found. They look good. No, I didn't have them magnafluxed and I
probably won't either. I'm not going to magnaflux the extra 948 head
either. Make another offer!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
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From "C. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:48:53 -0400
Subject: To purchase
Contact Chuck at hallc@vianet.on.ca
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From "C. Hall" <hallc at vianet.on.ca>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:51:19 -0400
Subject: Looking for a 3000 project
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:18:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine vacuum and attracting females
E X T R E M E L Y E A S Y answer, CB!!!!!!!
K__________I__________S__________S !
Simple enough???
Anon
PS: Ooooops, toooo simple!!!
PPS: further comments have been PC deleted!
PPPS: LMAO, tho (thanks!!)
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:21:18 -0500
Subject: Re: A Question
Of course NOT, Jim!!!!!!
Geeeeesh, YOU "should" know it also!!!
The water ain't been "Wetter[ed])!!!!
Man, you are loooooosin' your "pressure!!!!!!
Sorry to learn!!
Anon
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 08 Aug 2002 23:09:45 -0400
Subject: O/D drain plug wrench
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:08:20 -0700
Subject: Ignition switch
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 03:45:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Ignition switch
It sounds like to me that you have either a short in
your wiring harness somewhere (it happens, even with
new harnesses). Try running a new wire between the
coil and the switch, and another new wire between the
voltage regulator and the fuse box and see if that
helps.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham@juno.com> wrote:
> (I know, I'm supposed to be waiting for the dust to
> clear and get
> difinitive direction on 100 oil leaks, but...) I get
> back from some
> errands and turn the key "off" and the engine keeps
> on running. Pull the
> car in the garage, pop the clutch in 4th and of
> course it dies. Silence
> except the fuel pump clicking every so often. And
> the ignition light on,
> too. Pull the switch off the dash, pull the thick
> white and the thin
> white off one terminal and the brown off the other
> and now that the
> wires are dangling free of each other and the car...
> the fuel pump
> continues to click- I think the ignition light went
> off. I finally pulled
> the battery out of the whole thing and finally
> silence. How does the pump
> stay on when all the wires to the switch are off the
> switch? (Among other
> questions.)
> Mike Gougeon
> 55BN2 (With a BN1 wire harness, I figured
> out.)(Don't ask.)
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 06:16:19 -0500
Subject: Healey Vacuums and Blazing Saddles
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 06:45:41 -0700
Subject: proper door seals-BJ8
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:03:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Wolf Whistles in Concours
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:07:11 -0600
Subject: My BJ8 Progress
Thought I'd drop a post as I am getting excited about the progress of my
bits and pieces, baggies of parts, chassis etc.
Chassis essentially done... some new panels (sills, trunk floor, and small
misc bits..) .. the body panels get hung back on soon .. then minor body
work to the passenger side will be done (new dog leg to replace prior
hatchet-job and remove about a gallon of bondo from the front fender)...
then everything will be painted red .... The passenger side was all bead
blasted.. as were the bonnet and the trunk lid... (again about a gallon of
bondo on the trunk lid will be removed...).... but these end bits are going
to be quick and I should have all the finished, painted pieces back from the
body shop in september.....
Motor - done 2 years ago but is having a new front seal .....
I picked up all the nuts and bolts, hose clamps, pins, washers, etc. from
the plater.... wonderful silver zinc.. guy did amazing work... I did a few
things in zinc that are not original for durability (bonnet catches) ....
droppped off the seat rails to be silver zinced... will be back in a week
with all the chrome (either polished or plated) .... Hardware for the
valve cover getting chromed to go along with an alloy valve cover...
all the minor bits of black and red are powder coated and in various sized
ziplock bags.. soon to get the proper nuts and bolts re-dispersed to the
bags according to the notes in each....
Exhaust manifolds heading to the powder coater to be coated with aluminum
heat dissapating material.... again non-original but will help the heat
dissapation greatly (and looks great).... (and importantly .. any mod can
be unbolted and original installed)..
Next jobs... rip apart the front suspension and rear and get everything that
was black powder coated....
All new suspension bushings, clips, wiring , misc screws, brake lines etc.
waiting in boxes....
needs still.... new gas tank (thinking aluminum).. better radiator...
(thinking a Cape International 'modified' radiator) ..
upgrades contemplated ... bilsteins.... Smitty's conversion,... hmmm
Cheers.
jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - coming along
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:42:32 EDT
Subject: Timing question
This may be a dumb question, but I need some info on adjusting the timing on
my BJ8. I read somewhere (now can't locate the source) that the timing
should be set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. I calculated that 10
degrees would be about 3/4 inch on the engine pulley, so I put a mark there
and adjusted the timing to put that mark in line with the pointer on the
timing cover, with the vacuum disconnected. Then reconnected the vacuum and
noted that the timing was now considerably further advanced at the same RPM
(1000) as would be expected with a functioning vacuum advance unit.
First, is my info accurate? Second is my technique correct?
I'm checking this in connection with trying to solve my overheating problem.
I added the missing radiator shroud this week, but am still severely
overheating within about 5 miles on a mid 70's evening drive. No boilover,
but showing very hot (well past the 230 degree mark on the gauge).
Any info and help appreciated.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:04:17 -0700
Subject: OD Drain Plug
Item# 1849968639
Kirk Kvam
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 11:07:35 EDT
Subject: Timing question NOT dumb
> This may be a dumb question, but I need some info on adjusting the timing on
>
> my BJ8. I read somewhere (now can't locate the source) that the timing
> should be set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. I calculated that 10
>
> degrees would be about 3/4 inch on the engine pulley, so I put a mark there
>
> and adjusted the timing to put that mark in line with the pointer on the
> timing cover, with the vacuum disconnected. Then reconnected the vacuum
> and
> noted that the timing was now considerably further advanced at the same RPM
>
> (1000) as would be expected with a functioning vacuum advance unit.
> First, is my info accurate? Second is my technique correct?
>
Not only is this question not dumb, but to my mind it deserves answers that
are posted to the entire list as well as just to John. I'd sure like to know
the collective wisdom on this tehcnique, even if it is not unanimous! It
would also be good if folks reply with the timing settings that they use to
enrich the discussion. This is WAY more important than wolf-whistles!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 08:54:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing question
The workshop manual specifies 15 degrees BTDC at 600 rpm. I unplug the vacuum
line too but don't see much if any advance occurring at the low rpm.
I have a BMC technical service bulletin dated September 1, 1964 which has the
following fractional info for 5, 10 and 12 degrees. I added the decimal, mm
conversion and the 15 degree line. (don't know why the 15 degree line was
missing
when that is the one you want!)
-----------------
Re: Ignition Timing for Austin Healey 3000 Mark I, II and
III.
We have received many requests asking for the actual
crankshaft pulley
measurements necessary for adjusting and checking the
ignition
timing.
We would like to advise you that the corresponding distance
from the
T.D.C marking on the crankshaft pulley is as follows:
5 degrees - 17/64" (.265625 or 6.747 mm)
10 degrees - 17/32" (.53125 or 13.494 mm)
12 degrees - 21/32" (.65625 or 16.669 mm)
15 degrees - 51/64" (.796875 or 20.241 mm)
---------------------
I have painted a white line on the crank pully at about .80" from TDC. I also
use
a timing light with an advance dial function which allows you to double check
the
timing marks. Remember that you can fine tune the timing with the micro
adjusting
knob on the distributor once you are within a couple degrees. Also, the dwell
angle should be set first to 35 +-3 degrees and the maximum advance is 35
degrees
(1.86" or 47.23 mm)
Hope that helps,
John
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 10:16:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing question NOT dumb
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 9:07 AM
Subject: Timing question NOT dumb
> In a message dated 8/9/02 10:44:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> BANJOJOHN@aol.com writes:
>
>
> > This may be a dumb question, but I need some info on adjusting the
timing on
> >
> > my BJ8. I read somewhere (now can't locate the source) that the timing
> > should be set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. I calculated that
10
> >
> > degrees would be about 3/4 inch on the engine pulley, so I put a mark
there
> >
> > and adjusted the timing to put that mark in line with the pointer on the
> > timing cover, with the vacuum disconnected. Then reconnected the vacuum
> > and
> > noted that the timing was now considerably further advanced at the same
RPM
> >
> > (1000) as would be expected with a functioning vacuum advance unit.
> > First, is my info accurate? Second is my technique correct?
> >
>
> Not only is this question not dumb, but to my mind it deserves answers
that
> are posted to the entire list as well as just to John. I'd sure like to
know
> the collective wisdom on this tehcnique, even if it is not unanimous! It
> would also be good if folks reply with the timing settings that they use
to
> enrich the discussion. This is WAY more important than wolf-whistles!
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 12:14:59 EDT
Subject: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
Thanks,
Richard
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 12:18:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: O/D drain plug wrench
" Overdrive Filter Plug Spanner: A very useful tool to help you
properly maintain your overdrive. This tool is designed to grip the
filter plug securely. Keep the skin on your knuckles, and the plug in
good condition. Outside Diameter is 2.75 inches. This tool fits:
Austin-Healey, Triumph, Jaguar, and any car with the same filter plug.
Part Number: BT8 $45.50 "
Since BRITISH TOOL CO. is located in U.S.A., [709 MARIETTA N.E., GRAND
RAPIDS, MI 49505; (616) 363-6666] I assume the price to be in US
dollars.
--Scott Morris ['62 BT7 tricarb driver; '60 BN7 project]
--- Healeyolic <healey6@optonline.net> wrote: << For those of you who
are looking for a OD drain plug wrench, there is one corrently on eBay
item number 1849968639. It looks new. Listed for $9.99 but who knows
what it eventually will go for. --John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your ad for free now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 10:22:14 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing question
Sorry that you are still having trouble. A couple of things come to
mind.
What, exactly, have you done so far to solve the problem? There was a
previous long list of possible solutions in the previous responses.
>No boilover, but showing very hot (well past the 230 degree mark on the gauge).
This statement leads me to question the accuracy of your temperature
gage. If the temperature is truly well above 230 degrees, there should
be some indication of boiling. Maybe the engine is not as hot as the
gage is reading. In an earlier thread there is a good, detailed
explanation of how to check temp gage calibration. Have you done this?
I still think that you need to check for combustion gasses in the
coolant if you haven't done so. A radiator shop can quickly check this
for you. I know that it is a little scary to think about. Better not to
know about a possible major problem, but in the end you really need to
know for better or worse.
On the timing thing, I believe that the vacuum advance uses ported
vacuum. The vacuum take off point is down stream (on the engine side) of
the throttle butterfly. This causes the vacuum advance to receive no
vacuum, or very little, when the throttle is closed at idle. Then as
the throttle is opened, the vacuum port is exposed to engine vacuum so
that advance can occur. The vacuum port may or may not be partially
uncovered at idle speed depending upon how far the butterfly is open at
idle. On a fast idle you certainly could have some vacuum advance
showing. Possibly at a slower idle setting there would be no vacuum
advance. Timing is probably not a factor in the overheating problem as
long as the timing is reasonably close to correct. (Within five degrees
of correct)
There are other things to investigate but try these "easy" things first.
You can't logically go very far in diagnosing the problem until you know
that the temperature gage is correct. The first thing to do!
Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2
BANJOJOHN@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Listers:
>
> This may be a dumb question, but I need some info on adjusting the timing on
> my BJ8. I read somewhere (now can't locate the source) that the timing
> should be set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. I calculated that 10
> degrees would be about 3/4 inch on the engine pulley, so I put a mark there
> and adjusted the timing to put that mark in line with the pointer on the
> timing cover, with the vacuum disconnected. Then reconnected the vacuum and
> noted that the timing was now considerably further advanced at the same RPM
> (1000) as would be expected with a functioning vacuum advance unit.
> First, is my info accurate? Second is my technique correct?
> I'm checking this in connection with trying to solve my overheating problem.
> I added the missing radiator shroud this week, but am still severely
> overheating within about 5 miles on a mid 70's evening drive. No boilover,
> but showing very hot (well past the 230 degree mark on the gauge).
> Any info and help appreciated.
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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from Classic & Speed Parts in Arcadia CA. They ship all over.
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 09:31:01 -0700
Subject: Good Price on Pertronix
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From WhoCares56 at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:22:32 EDT
Subject: Calif Re-Registration
The company is called C.A.R.S. and the phone number is 909-645-4331.
I have no connection, financial interest, etc. . . .just passing on info for
those with a need.
Carroll
BN1 #484 - about to be registered for the first time in about 15 yrs.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 10:48:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing question
I've looked at some of the replies - they seem to have covered the situation
quite well.
A quick way to test the temp gauge that I've used: Most good auto shops
will have at least one tech that has a coolant temp checker. It's a
pistol-like device (can't remember the name - made by Snap-on, I think) that
is aimed at the radiator's top tank with the engine running and up to temp,
and reads the coolant temerature instantly - quick and easy! The reading
should be in the ballpark (5 degrees or so) of what your gauge says, if
thermostat is open and coolant is circulating.
If the gauge is off, and you are really not overheating, then the procedure
to calibrate the gauge previously described on the list can be used, or you
could send it for a re-build.
If the gauge is close, then you've got to look elsewhere to solve the
overheating problem.
I once did a timing test on a late Healey: set the timing by the static
method to 10 degrees BTDC ( I used a 9/16 open end wrench in the notch on
the crankshaft pulley) as described in the manuals. When I started the
engine and checked with an advance-type timing light, I got a reading of
exactly 15 degrees! As pointed out by a fellow lister, you must be sure
that the idle is on spec. when using a light - if it's too fast, the
mechanical advance in the distributor will begin to advance and mess up the
readings. I've never bothered disconnecting the vaccuum pipe on a Healey
when using a light for this reason.
Another thing that we would all agree on - there are no dumb questions when
one is trying to resolve an overheating problem in a Healey!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 7:42 AM
Subject: Timing question
Hi Listers:
This may be a dumb question, but I need some info on adjusting the timing on
my BJ8. I read somewhere (now can't locate the source) that the timing
should be set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. I calculated that 10
degrees would be about 3/4 inch on the engine pulley, so I put a mark there
and adjusted the timing to put that mark in line with the pointer on the
timing cover, with the vacuum disconnected. Then reconnected the vacuum and
noted that the timing was now considerably further advanced at the same RPM
(1000) as would be expected with a functioning vacuum advance unit.
First, is my info accurate? Second is my technique correct?
I'm checking this in connection with trying to solve my overheating problem.
I added the missing radiator shroud this week, but am still severely
overheating within about 5 miles on a mid 70's evening drive. No boilover,
but showing very hot (well past the 230 degree mark on the gauge).
Any info and help appreciated.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:56:32 -0400
Subject: RE: Timing question
So far folks have mentioned checking timing and contamination of coolant.
One thing to check is that you have the right solution of anti-freeze/water
- 100% anti-freeze would run hotter than 1/3 anti-freeze ... I know it
sounds silly that anyone would put 100% anti-freeze in but you'd be
surprised what previous owners might have done. Also check that there is no
emulsified oil on the inside of the oil filler cap ... a sign of long term
storage (not a problem if you change the oil) OR a leaking head gasket.
Andy
'67 BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: BANJOJOHN@aol.com [mailto:BANJOJOHN@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 10:43 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Timing question
Hi Listers:
This may be a dumb question, but I need some info on adjusting the timing on
my BJ8. I read somewhere (now can't locate the source) that the timing
should be set to 10 degrees BTDC with a timing light. I calculated that 10
degrees would be about 3/4 inch on the engine pulley, so I put a mark there
and adjusted the timing to put that mark in line with the pointer on the
timing cover, with the vacuum disconnected. Then reconnected the vacuum and
noted that the timing was now considerably further advanced at the same RPM
(1000) as would be expected with a functioning vacuum advance unit.
First, is my info accurate? Second is my technique correct?
I'm checking this in connection with trying to solve my overheating problem.
I added the missing radiator shroud this week, but am still severely
overheating within about 5 miles on a mid 70's evening drive. No boilover,
but showing very hot (well past the 230 degree mark on the gauge).
Any info and help appreciated.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:37:21 EDT
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
http://capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
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From skip <tfsbj7 at mindspring.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 15:48:14 -0400
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
CAWS52803@aol.com wrote:
>
> The Meet is June 25 - 30, 2003 on the outskirts of Washington, DC
> Here is their Website:
>
> http://capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
>
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
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From dougi at shaw.ca
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 12:49:32 -0700
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
Rendezvous 2003 (formerly the West Coast Meet) will be held July
7th to 11th in the redwoods and on the beaches of the beautiful north
coast of California in the city of Eureka.
Hope to see many of you there!
Doug Ingram
Victoria BC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: caws52803@aol.com
> Date: Friday, August 9, 2002 11:37 am
> Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
>
> > The Meet is June 25 - 30, 2003 on the outskirts of Washington, DC
> > Here is their Website:
> >
> > http://capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
> >
> > Rudy Streng
> > Lenoir, NC
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 13:08:00 -0700
Subject: Re: proper door seals-BJ8
As far as I can tell, the advice that you've had is basically correct - the
vent-window frame seal is a fabric covered material, while the door frame
portion should be a 'fuzzy' type finish.
However, it sounds like you've got an earlier doorseal. The difference is
the size of the 'bulb' portion of the seal. The BJ8's (and possibly the
BJ7's - don't know - can anyone else comment?) had a larger bulb size
compared to the one for the sidescreen roadsters - the finished door panel
is a bit further away from the sill.
I've seen many different doorseal cross sections over the years from the
various suppliers. To an extent, they sell whatever they can get their
hands on, although most suppliers seem to be paying more attention to
originality in recent years.
I can direct you, if you wish, to a reliable specialty British car trim
supplier in Ontario - off list - he will be able to provide the information
that you need, and the correct parts if required.
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8 - with the correct seals installed!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 6:45 AM
Subject: proper door seals-BJ8
My 67BJ8 needs the door seals replaced.
They look original by the condition and are the same material from vent to
floorboard.
However, I'm being told by two different suppliers that the
upper seals by the vent windows are supposed to be a different material from
the seal that goes down and across the door frame. The upper short piece is
a larger black material with woven nylon backing and the longer seal is
furry(furflex?) with a smaller diameter rubber hose. I currently have the
woven nylon all around. It doesn't look like the thinner material will
seal.
Suggestions before I send it back or try to install?
Thanks
Ron
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 14:33:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Timing question (correction)
>On the timing thing, I believe that the vacuum advance uses ported
>vacuum. The vacuum take off point is down stream (on the engine side) of
>the throttle butterfly.
I should have said; The vacuum take off point is down stream (on the
atmospheric side) of the throttle butterfly.
If anyone cares!!!
Dave Russell
BN2
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:08:35 EDT
Subject: Timing question follow up
Thanks for all the good info on timing. I intend to recheck things this
weekend. I may have found part of my overheat problem this morning.
Apparently when I filled the Rad. last night before my test run, there was a
major bubble in the system. This morning I opened the cap and couldn't see
any coolant. Had to add almost another gallon to get full again. Yes I am
using 50/50 mix. Running a gallon low would explain the high heat, and the
lack of boil-over. The thermocouple and the water pump were probably running
dry. I'll try it again tonight and let you all know how I come out.
Hopefully I didn't screw up anything else.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:15:28 -0400
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
> The Meet is June 25 - 30, 2003 on the outskirts of Washington, DC
> Here is their Website:
>
> http://capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
>
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
I just checked out the events schedule for the 2003 Conclave, and note that
it runs Wednesday 25th through Monday 30th.
I understand that these events are very carefully planned out noting years,
even decades of past experience to "fine tune" the events. I have been
involved in the core committees of two Conclaves in the past, and appreciate
what it takes to plan an event like this.
I would like to "gently" point out that this schedule will require most
people to book off two weeks of vacation time instead of one. I believe the
majority of attendees who drive to these events (hopefully) are within an
800 or so mile radius.
For the past number of years a national meet beginning with a Sunday
registration and running events from Monday through Thursday, winding up and
departing on Friday will allow most folks to travel the weekend before and
after the event....one week required, not two.
I know this doesnt affect those who are in their retirement years, but there
are still an awful lot of us who still have to book our few precious
vacation weeks very carefully.
Just an observation....I'll be there anyway!
Rich Chrysler
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 17:58:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing modification
That caught my attention, and now that you mention it, I wanted to mention a
small modification I made to my BJ8.
THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
But it helped my car. One day I noticed that "peculiarity" while tinkering
with whichever SU they take the vacuum from. I'd had difficulty getting the
timing just right. If the timing was retarded enough to smooth out the
exhaust note, performance suffered. If it was advanced to optimum
acceleration (just short of pinging), the exhaust note got ragged at
near-trailing throttle. (Overheating was never an issue, and this was in
Dallas, TX.)
Being young and reckless, and reasoning that vacuum advance was supposed to
come from a spot where there was vacuum, I simply plugged the existing hole
into the carb throat, and drilled another one on the engine side of the
butterfly. This was under a small cover plate that holds the brass tube
where the hose attaches.
Looking back on it, it shouldn't have worked. But in fact the car had more
of a Jaguar purr around town, without sacrificing performance.
If any one has noticed that one of their SUs has two vacuum ports, one of
them plugged, you may have my car, or at least the carb from it.
Best,
John Miller
Hotlanta
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 19:16:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing modification
When we see some of our P.O.'s well intentioned modifications, then
think that they 'tuned the car' as well, how did some of those cars run??
CB
ps: Regards the 'timing/overheating thread - I'm in agreement that at
230 deg.F, the coolant should be sputtering out, especially at a stop, and
the car might likely have a low speed miss as well (fuel delivery). I'm
suspecting the sending unit/gauge is at fault.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 22:07:19 -0600
Subject: Mechanical tachometer problem
This may be of interest if anyone else ever has this problem. It only
applies to the earlier mechanical tachs. I am pretty sure that it would
also apply to all speedometers.
I was just out in the BN2 driving about ten miles from home when the
most awful squealing noise started. I imagined all sorts of problems
since I really don't trust the car very much yet. Seems like there is
always something more to go wrong in spite of restoration & maintenance.
In any event I found that the noise changed when I grabbed the tach
cable on the back of the tach & with a semi sigh of relief found that
disconnecting the cable on the back of the tach stopped the noise.
Got home & removed the tach from the dash & investigated. Turned the
tach by chucking a squared nail in the drill press & inserting it into
the square drive spindle. This showed a very rough rear bearing which
squealed. Discovered that turning the chrome bezel would release the
front glass. Two screws on the back of the housing were all that held
the mechanism in the housing. Carefully applied aerosol white lithium
grease to the outside of the bearing, let it run inside, & wiped off the
excess. Checked it again & no noise & much smoother. Cleaned the tach
face & inside of the glass & reassembled. Pulled the cable, cleaned &
lubed it with white lithium grease.
This thing works better than it ever has! The needle used to bounce
around & generally act erratic. Perfectly smooth now & as far as I can
tell the calibration was not disturbed. Forty six years is a long time
to expect the original grease to last.
Guess that I will have to do the same with the speedometer. It jumps
around a bit also.
Dave Russell
BN2
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 02:45:50 EDT
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 08:43:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Mechanical tachometer problem
You will have to do a little more on the speedo because you have the
trip and mileage mechanisms to deal with. You may find the the two shall
shafts with the fibre worm wheels attached are stiff in the frame. There
are small circlips at the pawl ends which can be removed and the above
shafts removed for cleaning and greasing.
These are prone to becoming dry and one of the things you might notice
is that the speed indicated will drop and rise at regular intervals.
This is the mechanism getting stiff to the point where it winds up the
cable a little as the distance wheels are advanced.
All the best
>
>This may be of interest if anyone else ever has this problem. It only
>applies to the earlier mechanical tachs. I am pretty sure that it would
>also apply to all speedometers.
>
>I was just out in the BN2 driving about ten miles from home when the
>most awful squealing noise started. I imagined all sorts of problems
>since I really don't trust the car very much yet. Seems like there is
>always something more to go wrong in spite of restoration & maintenance.
>
>In any event I found that the noise changed when I grabbed the tach
>cable on the back of the tach & with a semi sigh of relief found that
>disconnecting the cable on the back of the tach stopped the noise.
>
>Got home & removed the tach from the dash & investigated. Turned the
>tach by chucking a squared nail in the drill press & inserting it into
>the square drive spindle. This showed a very rough rear bearing which
>squealed. Discovered that turning the chrome bezel would release the
>front glass. Two screws on the back of the housing were all that held
>the mechanism in the housing. Carefully applied aerosol white lithium
>grease to the outside of the bearing, let it run inside, & wiped off the
>excess. Checked it again & no noise & much smoother. Cleaned the tach
>face & inside of the glass & reassembled. Pulled the cable, cleaned &
>lubed it with white lithium grease.
>
>This thing works better than it ever has! The needle used to bounce
>around & generally act erratic. Perfectly smooth now & as far as I can
>tell the calibration was not disturbed. Forty six years is a long time
>to expect the original grease to last.
>
>Guess that I will have to do the same with the speedometer. It jumps
>around a bit also.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
--
John Harper
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 08:43:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Timing question (correction)
I think you will find that it is only downstream when the throttle
butterfly disc is opened a little. At idle it is right in line with the
edge of the disc. I understand that the theory is that the small vacuum
outlet is intended to be masked in the idle position so as not to create
any vacuum at the distributor. As soon as the throttle is opened then as
you say the hole is downstream.
All the best
>I should have said; The vacuum take off point is down stream (on the
>atmospheric side) of the throttle butterfly.
>
>Dave Russell
>BN2
>
--
John Harper
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From Reid Trummel <rtrummel at earthlink.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 18:55:37 -0400
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
Reid
http://www.healeyhighlights.com
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 08:43:05 -0700
Subject: PCV valve question.
Is it true all we have to do is--install a PCV valve in the hose from the
valve cover to the air cleaner and attach a source of vacuum to it, as from
the booster port in the intake manifold?
Would appreciate experience-based clarification on this. Thanks in advance.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Herman <herman at capitalhealeys.org>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 12:44:55 -0400
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
Rich:
You make a good point for having a Conclave from Monday through Friday. We
felt that having the Conclave in the Washington DC area would be impossible
if we didn't go over a weekend. The reason is that the stop and go traffic
in town during the week is just too much for our fragile cars. The weekends
leaves the city more open with less traffic.
Washington has a lot to offer in the way of sights but there is no way to
see it in our cars during the day because of traffic. Many of our events
are out in the countryside. Such events as the White Post Restoration Tour,
the trip to Summit Point Raceway, the rallye and even the popular car show
are all held outside the beltway away from prime traffic. But events like a
tour to Mount Vernon, a Twilight tour of the monuments, or the Sunday
Potomac River Champaign Cruise we felt would just not work during the week.
We do have an excellent subway system and the hotel will provide a free
shuttle to and from a close subway station, as well as to nearby shopping so
it will not be necessary to take the cars into town other than for our
events as described above. Incidentally, were hoping for a police escort to
the monuments at twilight and maybe even a photo opportunity with the
Capitol in the background. This is still in the planning stages though.
By the way, I understand why you said an 800 mile radius but I would hope we
attract people from greater distances than that. I just returned from Tahoe
which was a lot more than 800. Thankfully, I am retired and had the time as
you pointed out.
We're glad to hear you will come anyway. You deserve an answer as to why we
scheduled this event when we did. We believe that any club from a large
city that wanted to show off some sights would need to do the same
scheduling as we did.
Looking forward to seeing you next year, Rich.
Sincerely,
Allen Feldman
Cochairman, Conclave 2003
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
To register for Conclave 2003 visit our Web site.
http://capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html
>I just checked out the events schedule for the 2003 Conclave, and note that
>it runs Wednesday 25th through Monday 30th.
>I would like to "gently" point out that this schedule will require most
>people to book off two weeks of vacation time instead of one. I believe the
>majority of attendees who drive to these events (hopefully) are within an
>800 or so mile radius.
>For the past number of years a national meet beginning with a Sunday
>registration and running events from Monday through Thursday, winding up and
>departing on Friday will allow most folks to travel the weekend before and
>after the event....one week required, not two.
--
Capital Area Austin Healey Club
http://www.capitalhealeys.org
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 16:19:40 -0400
Subject: Re: When is 2003 Rendezvous?
> To Rich and other hopeful Conclave 2003 attendees. Allen asked me to
> post this reply to Rich's questions regarding the scheduling of
> Conclave next year.
>
>
> Rich:
>
> You make a good point for having a Conclave from Monday through Friday.
We
> felt that having the Conclave in the Washington DC area would be
impossible
> if we didn't go over a weekend. The reason is that the stop and go
traffic
> in town during the week is just too much for our fragile cars. The
weekends
> leaves the city more open with less traffic.
>
> Washington has a lot to offer in the way of sights but there is no way to
> see it in our cars during the day because of traffic. Many of our events
> are out in the countryside. Such events as the White Post Restoration
Tour,
> the trip to Summit Point Raceway, the rallye and even the popular car show
> are all held outside the beltway away from prime traffic. But events like
a
> tour to Mount Vernon, a Twilight tour of the monuments, or the Sunday
> Potomac River Champaign Cruise we felt would just not work during the
week.
>
> We do have an excellent subway system and the hotel will provide a free
> shuttle to and from a close subway station, as well as to nearby shopping
so
> it will not be necessary to take the cars into town other than for our
> events as described above. Incidentally, were hoping for a police escort
to
> the monuments at twilight and maybe even a photo opportunity with the
> Capitol in the background. This is still in the planning stages though.
>
> By the way, I understand why you said an 800 mile radius but I would hope
we
> attract people from greater distances than that. I just returned from
Tahoe
> which was a lot more than 800. Thankfully, I am retired and had the time
as
> you pointed out.
>
> We're glad to hear you will come anyway. You deserve an answer as to why
we
> scheduled this event when we did. We believe that any club from a large
> city that wanted to show off some sights would need to do the same
> scheduling as we did.
>
> Looking forward to seeing you next year, Rich.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Allen Feldman
> Cochairman, Conclave 2003
> Capital Area Austin Healey Club
I had originally written:
> >I just checked out the events schedule for the 2003 Conclave, and note
that
> >it runs Wednesday 25th through Monday 30th.
>
>
> >I would like to "gently" point out that this schedule will require most
> >people to book off two weeks of vacation time instead of one. I believe
the
> >majority of attendees who drive to these events (hopefully) are within an
> >800 or so mile radius.
>
>
> >For the past number of years a national meet beginning with a Sunday
> >registration and running events from Monday through Thursday, winding up
and
> >departing on Friday will allow most folks to travel the weekend before
and
> >after the event....one week required, not two.
>
> --
> Capital Area Austin Healey Club
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 22:15:13 EDT
Subject: Re: PCV valve question.
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 12:18:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Healey Duncan Drophead Coupe on eBay
" Healey Duncan Drophead Coupe first reqistered Feb 1947.Photo on page
14 of The Healey Book by Bill Emerson.Chassis number A1511 so a very
early model,only one earlier chassis known.The only Drophead Coupe left
out of two made,and the only one made on an A-type chassis.The car is
not derelict as much work has been done,but there is much work still to
do.Professional completion should not cost more than about #12000,to
give a completed car worth about #20000. Interior terrible but
suitable for patterns.Exterior sound but needs work.Excellent wooden
frame with solid aluminium panels.Chassis good and rust free.Mechanics
mostly good/excellent but needs some assembly. "
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1850558600
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your ad for free now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From JXLmail at aol.com
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 12:33:22 EDT
Subject: Looking for the Jaguar list address ?
Jim L.
56 BN2
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 13:39:45 -0400
Subject: Hundred Outer Valance Holes
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 16:34:11 -0400
Subject: jag list url
Heres my favorite and you can get all the others from there.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/
Carroll
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <CReeves@barnet.com>
To: William Hawkins <WHawkins@barnet.com>; Lee Heap <LHeap@barnet.com>; Joe
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 15:32:15 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
Don
BN7
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 17:36:56 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
> Sorry to bomb the list again for another electrical problem.
> My catfish pond has a 3 hp pump used for aeration. I had it out over the
winter months and used a different set up. Now I put it back in service and
connected it the same way it was running last year. Now, the motor (and
pump) starts, stops, starts, stops, starts, stops. (Ad infinitum).
> Does this indicate a bad or faulty start capacitor? What could the
trouble be?
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 18:57:43 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
> Might be circuit breaker built into the pump that kicks out then resets,
> etc.etc.
> .
> -
>
> > Sorry to bomb the list again for another electrical problem.
> > My catfish pond has a 3 hp pump used for aeration
Don--
Are these electrical catfish? Could be reversed polarity....
Michael
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 19:04:01 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
Have you considered adding a wolf whistle and a Texas Cooler to see if it
works better?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 19:47:48 -0400
Subject: Re: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
CB
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 19:53:56 EDT
Subject: Re: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
> If you had a negative catfish and a positive eel in the same pond, would
> they swim in circles or cook themselves???? Are you positive?
>
>
Which reminds me of the story about the two atoms that walk out of a bar.
The first atom says: "Damn, I left one of my electrons in the bar,"
The second atom says "Are you sure?", and the first replies: "Yes, I'm
positive."
Best--Michael Oritt (<------ducking)
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 18:07:39 -0600
Subject: Re: No Healey Content/Electrical Question
Regards
Ed
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/11/02 7:48:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cbaustin@sgi.net
> writes:
>
> > If you had a negative catfish and a positive eel in the same pond, would
> > they swim in circles or cook themselves???? Are you positive?
> >
> >
>
> Which reminds me of the story about the two atoms that walk out of a bar.
> The first atom says: "Damn, I left one of my electrons in the bar,"
> The second atom says "Are you sure?", and the first replies: "Yes, I'm
> positive."
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (<------ducking)
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From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 20:58:26 -0400
Subject: Voltage Regulator
Regards
Tom
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 20:59:35 EDT
Subject: Disc minimum thickness
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From <Joe at farley.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 18:50:21 -0700
Subject: RE: Disc minimum thickness
Entering rotor thickness in the archive search returns the following:
====================================================================
To: "'Keith Pennell'" <pennell@whro.net>, <meditionm@netscape.net>,
"'Rich Locasso'" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Disk rotor thickness
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:55:15 -0400
In-Reply-To: <002101c21608$bd7e0fa0$76840540@hv20001>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
We are getting a little confused here.
All 3000's up to BJ8 Phase 2 used a rotor that was 0.375" thick to start
and the factory recommendation is that the minimum thickness, after
grinding, should be 0.335" or more. In other words no more than 0.040"
in total should be removed.
The later MkIII cars started with 0.500" rotors; the same brake as was
used on early TR6s. Although the minimum thickness does not seem to show
up in the Healey Manual most Triumph and Girling literature indicates
that the minimum thickness for these discs is 0.450" i.e. no more than
0.050" should be removed in total.
I think that you can get away with a bit more on the later rotors but...
should you have a problem and get taken to task over a brake failure I
wouldn't like to bet on your chances if it could be proven that you knew
that the rotors were machined below the recommended minimum.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
--End include --
Joe Farley
'66 BJ8
'77 C177RG @ DVO
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 19:29:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Heater parts
And for sale, I have the following heater parts avail:
1)The fwd side of the heater box that attaches to the
inside of the firewall.
2)The rear facing side of the heater box. Has the
stamped ID tag and air duct valve.
3)The heater box top panel.
4)Heater core.
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:59:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Hundred Outer Valance Holes
Mine are just barely 5/16" diameter, centered in the apron right at 28 1/4 "
center to center (14 1/8" out from center), between 7/16" and 15/32" back
from the leading edge (since it's a curved surface, that measurement is
actually radial). If I hook my tape on the outer pointy corners, the holes
measure right at 10" in.
I can sketch, scan and email to you if not perfectly clear.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
BN1L-156610
In a message dated 8/11/02 10:42:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
<< Hello Listers,
I need to know the precise position and size of the two grommet holes on the
front splash panel on the Hundred (BN1 and BN2). These are the holes where
rubber buttons fit to keep the front bumper from coming into contact with the
painted valance surface. Can someone please give me the measurement in from
the ends, and in from the front face? I think it's a 5/16" hole, but could
that also be verified?
Thanks very much.
Rich Chrysler >>
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 20:29:08 -0700
Subject: Virtual Healey
Just a quick note to let you know the Virtual Healey website has been
updated. New thumbnail format, new interior parts, all new renderings,
etc.
http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
Cheers,
John
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 02:27:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey
Awesome John!!! Hopefully you can get the makers of
the Playstation game "Driver" to put your healey in
their catalogue of cars.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- John Loftus <loftusdesign@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> Just a quick note to let you know the Virtual Healey
> website has been
> updated. New thumbnail format, new interior parts,
> all new renderings,
> etc.
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 08:23:17 -0400
Subject: has anyone heard of
Thanks,
Fred
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:06:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing question
<snip>
As pointed out by a fellow lister, you must be sure
that the idle is on spec. when using a light - if it's too fast, the
mechanical advance in the distributor will begin to advance and mess up the
readings.
As they used to say in the RV commercials: (SLAP). Thanks, I needed that.
Thanks everyone. Now off to do the static setting I was to lazy to do to start
with.
Bob Johnson
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:31:20 -0700
Subject: test it again.
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 09:33:24 -0700
Subject: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
How about it Gary Anderson ??
Kirk Kvam
62BT7 Tri-Carb
60BN7-405 (302 Ford Nasty-Boy)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 8:29 PM
Subject: Virtual Healey
> Hi folks,
>
> Just a quick note to let you know the Virtual Healey website has been
> updated. New thumbnail format, new interior parts, all new renderings,
> etc.
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/virtual_healey.htm
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 12:56:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
62BT7@prodigy.net writes:<< I nominate this "Virtual Healey" for the,
"FIRST, VIRTUAL CONCOURS GOLD LEVEL BADGE".
How about it Gary Anderson ?? >>
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:00:09 EDT
Subject: 60 BT7 for sale...
1960 Austin Healey 3000
Mark I (2 + 2)
64,400 Miles
Old English White
Red Interior
2912 cc twin carburetors "straight 6" cylinders
Electric Overdrive
Only 3 owners, garaged since 1960
Pirelli P2000 tires
Wire spoke wheels
Copy of original shop manual
Extra brand new tonneau cover (never installed)
Includes valuable rights to
Colorado license plate name "Healey"
Spare tire and spoke wheel
Side curtain frames
Convertible frame and top
$ 25,000.00
Contact Brad at:
bbuchanan@bygroup.com
303-393-6370
720-201-1518 (cell)
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:03:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
Kind regards
Ed
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> Kirk, I think this one would definately take "Best of Show" in the
> popularity show, but I can't tell if it would qualify for Concours, there
> might be a V8 hiding in there...<Grin>
> Richard
>
> 62BT7@prodigy.net writes:<< I nominate this "Virtual Healey" for the,
> "FIRST, VIRTUAL CONCOURS GOLD LEVEL BADGE".
> How about it Gary Anderson ?? >>
>
> /
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:15:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:28:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
HealeyHundred@aol.com wrote:
> edriver@sk.sympatico.ca writes:<< Gee Richard no faith?!!!
> Kind regards
> Ed >>
> Now Ed, let's not get into Religion or Politics on the list
> :-))
> Richard
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 10:50:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
Cheers,
-John
62BT7 wrote:
> I nominate this "Virtual Healey" for the,
>
> "FIRST, VIRTUAL CONCOURS GOLD LEVEL BADGE".
>
> How about it Gary Anderson ??
>
> Kirk Kvam
> 62BT7 Tri-Carb
> 60BN7-405 (302 Ford Nasty-Boy)
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:21:24 +0200
Subject: Fuel gauge
At the rear of the housing there are two strips with, in total, 3 prongs on
which a connector can be pushed. I would understand one earthing clip, but why
three?
Furthermore two slots at the rear are marked 'B' and 'T', used for fixing
solenoid-like things inside the housing, but no trace of any insulating
washers - just plain metal washers. Looks like someone has been fiddling.
Can anyone help please?
Hope my English is understandable - being Dutch, it is difficult for me to
express myself clearly in technical matters in a foreign language.
Thanks in advance (is that the written version of 'TIA'?)
Jack Aeckerlin
Capelle a/d Yssel, The Netherlands
BJ8 29432
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 15:57:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Virtual Healey / Virtual Concours
<< Oh no ...please don't get Gary to open his notebook ... I'll never get
this
thing finished! Let's just call it a daily driver and the hood release is
broken
;)
Cheers,
-John >>
John,
Gary is adamant about having cars judged in less than an hour and a half. So
this one should take VIRTUALLY no time at all!
;-)
Richard
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From "Tom O'Brien" <tomobrien at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 02:35:51 -0700
Subject: has anyone heard of
> gasket cinch and if so where may I purchase it?
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
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From John New <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 12 Aug 2002 17:53:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing question
Well, I wouldn't think you should abandon strobe timing because the idle
is too fast.
I would have thought the procedure would be:
1) Adjust the timing. If advancing the timing, the idle will probably
rise, so set the strobe advance to something less than 15 degrees, to
counter the mechanical advance due to increased RPM. If retarding, the
idle will probably fall, so there may be no need to compensate on the
strobe (if the idle is already in the 600-800 RPM range).
2) Reset the idle.
3) Repeat 1) and 2) until the changes to both timing and idle RPM are
negligible.
I also remember the following from the archives:
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200011/msg00666.html
> I would like to add though, if you have trouble keeping the revs at
> 600 you can use any figure below 1000. If the distributor is correctly
> set, the advance will not come on before well over 1000. To be really
> sure that you have got the timing right check it at 4000 revs, which
> incidentially is the most important figure because pinking at high
> revs is what causes most damage. Ideally the timing should be 35-36
> degrees advanced at these revs. If you find that yours isn4t and the
> timing at idle still is correct, then your distributor is set up
> wrongly.
>
>Magnus Karlsson
>SWEDEN
I have always thought that timing and carb tuning were linked. If I am
off-base here, somebody please correct me!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Mon, 2002-08-12 at 09:06, Bob Johnson wrote:
> Once again the list solves my problem by explaining someone else's. Not really
> wanting to set timing using static method. I took it to the local shop that I
> use for really light work. They used a light and set to 15 degrees (I
> suppose). Car has been running really rough since then. Well, the car was
> probably idling at somewhere near 1500-2000 rpm. Now I know why it is so rough
> because as Earl Kagna pointed out, while pointing out what someone else said:
>
> <snip>
>
> As pointed out by a fellow lister, you must be sure
> that the idle is on spec. when using a light - if it's too fast, the
> mechanical advance in the distributor will begin to advance and mess up the
> readings.
>
> As they used to say in the RV commercials: (SLAP). Thanks, I needed that.
>
> Thanks everyone. Now off to do the static setting I was to lazy to do to start
> with.
>
> Bob Johnson
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 16:50:48 -0600
Subject: Rear shroud paint scuff
How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud. There is a small air gap
beneath the steel bar/top material which I can see daylight through and
gaps & between the bar & the Tenax fasteners but wind motion flaps the
top enough to noticeably scuff the paint. I have considered putting some
kind of padding under the back part of the top where it contacts the
paint but there isn't much space for anything. Not putting the top up is
not an option for me. I don't live in a tropical climate. The marks can
be wet sanded out & buffed but the paint won't stand this remedy many
times. There is also a problem with the tonneau scuffing the paint but I
have solved it by installing a non standard "short" tonneau. Also I
don't drive with the windshield in the down position as the rubber
windshield seal also flaps & scuffs the paint.
Am I the only one who has had this problem? Paint scuffs on an expensive
paint job are not fun. I guess that you can tell that I am not a long
experienced Hundred Four owner.
Thanks for your help,
Dave Russell
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 16:25:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Marlene
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 3:50 PM
Subject: Rear shroud paint scuff
Hi list,
How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud. There is a small air gap
beneath the steel bar/top material which I can see daylight through and
gaps & between the bar & the Tenax fasteners but wind motion flaps the
top enough to noticeably scuff the paint. I have considered putting some
kind of padding under the back part of the top where it contacts the
paint but there isn't much space for anything. Not putting the top up is
not an option for me. I don't live in a tropical climate. The marks can
be wet sanded out & buffed but the paint won't stand this remedy many
times. There is also a problem with the tonneau scuffing the paint but I
have solved it by installing a non standard "short" tonneau. Also I
don't drive with the windshield in the down position as the rubber
windshield seal also flaps & scuffs the paint.
Am I the only one who has had this problem? Paint scuffs on an expensive
paint job are not fun. I guess that you can tell that I am not a long
experienced Hundred Four owner.
Thanks for your help,
Dave Russell
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 19:27:40 -0400
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 16:39:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
Bob
> Hi list,
>
> How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
> from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud. There is a small air gap
> beneath the steel bar/top material which I can see daylight through and
> gaps & between the bar & the Tenax fasteners but wind motion flaps the
> top enough to noticeably scuff the paint. I have considered putting some
> kind of padding under the back part of the top where it contacts the
> paint but there isn't much space for anything. Not putting the top up is
> not an option for me. I don't live in a tropical climate. The marks can
> be wet sanded out & buffed but the paint won't stand this remedy many
> times. There is also a problem with the tonneau scuffing the paint but I
> have solved it by installing a non standard "short" tonneau. Also I
> don't drive with the windshield in the down position as the rubber
> windshield seal also flaps & scuffs the paint.
>
> Am I the only one who has had this problem? Paint scuffs on an expensive
> paint job are not fun. I guess that you can tell that I am not a long
> experienced Hundred Four owner.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Dave Russell
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From "Max Vanderploeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 19:57:23 -0400
Subject: Stainless steel fasteners
Thanks,
Mick VanderPloeg
Raleigh, NC
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 17:13:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing question
I'm going to jump in here - wouldn't want any of us to unintentionally
mislead other listers trying to learn! Timing and carb tuning are definitly
connected - how else could we justify to our partners the great amounts of
time we spend in the garage trying to 'get it right'.
We've probably all heard by now the expression 'the problem with SU carb's
is usually the Lucas ignition' (this works just as well the other way
around - depending on what's wrong with the car, or who you're trying to
impress!)
The practical end of this: the timing has to be right in order to have any
hope of getting the mixture settings right. Any changes in basic timing
will affect the idle speed - so will mixture setting changes. Best bet is
to get the timing right - at the specified idle speed, then go to the
mixture settings, and then finish up with idle speed (if necessary), choke,
fast idle, etc. If the car was way off to start with, sometimes you have to
go back and forth a bit. Best make sure there's plenty of cold beer!
One thing for people to note: If you run and electronic ignition as many of
us do, or plan to in the future, you'll need to be able to time the engine
with a light. (This is why I started using a timing light). There is a tool
to enable static timing when using an electronic ignition, but it's quite
expensive. One of the advantages of an electronic ignition is the
minimizing of the timing 'wander' that our old Lucas distributors are
capable of because of shaft wear - the timing is more accurate.
Another point to consider: half of the BJ8's that I've been asked to help
out with come to me idling on the cold idle screws rather than the idle
mixture screws. Either the carbs need a re-build (or there is some other
induction problem - air leaks at the manifold, etc.), or the last guy simply
didn't know how to do it right. It's almost impossible to properly tune a
car this way - the idle will be inconsistent - actually affected by the
choke cable, and we all know how accurate those are!
Bottom line ---------- These cars are a pain to get 'right' for most uf us
amateurs, but when they're 'right' they're incredibly satisfying.
Earl Kagna, Victoria
---- Original Message -----
From: "John New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Timing question
Bob,
Well, I wouldn't think you should abandon strobe timing because the idle
is too fast.
I would have thought the procedure would be:
1) Adjust the timing. If advancing the timing, the idle will probably
rise, so set the strobe advance to something less than 15 degrees, to
counter the mechanical advance due to increased RPM. If retarding, the
idle will probably fall, so there may be no need to compensate on the
strobe (if the idle is already in the 600-800 RPM range).
2) Reset the idle.
3) Repeat 1) and 2) until the changes to both timing and idle RPM are
negligible.
I also remember the following from the archives:
http://www.team.net/html_arc/healeys/200011/msg00666.html
> I would like to add though, if you have trouble keeping the revs at
> 600 you can use any figure below 1000. If the distributor is correctly
> set, the advance will not come on before well over 1000. To be really
> sure that you have got the timing right check it at 4000 revs, which
> incidentially is the most important figure because pinking at high
> revs is what causes most damage. Ideally the timing should be 35-36
> degrees advanced at these revs. If you find that yours isn4t and the
> timing at idle still is correct, then your distributor is set up
> wrongly.
>
>Magnus Karlsson
>SWEDEN
I have always thought that timing and carb tuning were linked. If I am
off-base here, somebody please correct me!
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Mon, 2002-08-12 at 09:06, Bob Johnson wrote:
> Once again the list solves my problem by explaining someone else's. Not
really
> wanting to set timing using static method. I took it to the local shop
that I
> use for really light work. They used a light and set to 15 degrees (I
> suppose). Car has been running really rough since then. Well, the car was
> probably idling at somewhere near 1500-2000 rpm. Now I know why it is so
rough
> because as Earl Kagna pointed out, while pointing out what someone else
said:
>
> <snip>
>
> As pointed out by a fellow lister, you must be sure
> that the idle is on spec. when using a light - if it's too fast, the
> mechanical advance in the distributor will begin to advance and mess up
the
> readings.
>
> As they used to say in the RV commercials: (SLAP). Thanks, I needed that.
>
> Thanks everyone. Now off to do the static setting I was to lazy to do to
start
> with.
>
> Bob Johnson
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:06:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
> > Hi list,
> > How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
> > from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud. The marks can
> > be wet sanded out & buffed but the paint won't stand this remedy many
> > times. There is also a problem with the tonneau scuffing the paint but I
> > have solved it by installing a non standard "short" tonneau. Also I
> > don't drive with the windshield in the down position as the rubber
> > windshield seal also flaps & scuffs the paint.
This is a problem we all experience in the normal use of the car.
I always used the tonneau, the correct full one, when the top wasn't up. Of
course, the top was rarely ever up, only if torrential rains and slow
traffic forced the issue.<grin> The point is that if the tonneau or the top
are always in place, the scuffing marks will never be seen by others, will
they! And if they are seen she's earned her battle scars.
As for the use of one of those "short style" non original tonneau things,
what's worse for the car, a bit of paint scuffing, or drilling all those
holes across the rear shroud surface to fit those studs.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:11:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
I've found, after three repaints, that the two part (color coat/clear
coat system) allows much more buffing to remove these marks. I've been doing
this since '95 (last repaint) and have not worn through yet.
I'll catch grief from the concourse folks, but, these cars were built
for driving and racing and a few stone chips or top marks were not thought
of as a problem. I remember DMH at the big meet in Seven Springs, PA in '88
(correct me if I'm wrong, on the year only!) saying that he much more liked
the cars that were used, and a little beat up, as opposed to the 'spotless,
trailered ones'.
Of course, this is from someone who has a used, marked up car!!
Keep on buffing,
CB
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From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:32:33 -0400
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
"Scott H."
<austrheamgafun To: "Bob Coates"
<Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com>
@arczip.com> cc:
<healeys@autox.team.net>
08/12/02 08:33 Subject: Re:
STRANGE SITING
PM
Hi Bob,
What you've described might be a Swallow Doretti. It's very similar to the
MGA and Healey. They're fairly rare, and there's been two recent
restorations in my home town. Take a look at
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/ra.html (toward the bottom of the page) and
see if it's the same car you spotted.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com>
To: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
> Sunday morning driving through New Hartford, CT I spotted an interesting
> vehicle behind an abandoned garage. From a distance it had lines between
a
> Healey and an MGA, more leaning to the Healey. It had the tail lights of
> an MGA. It had the chrome beads between the fenders and shrouds. It
> appeared to have a wide grill opening similar to a Nash Healey. The dash
> had a large round tach on the left in front of the steering wheel and the
> speedo was on the right in kph. The rest of the gages were in between.
It
> also had a stubby shifter on a high tunnel. The hood had a center raised
> portion. I could not find a name on the vehicle. Any ideas?
>
> BOB COATES
> REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 18:41:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
Is this the car that you saw? Only 106 were made:
http://www.datsuns.com/modelguide/spl213.jpg
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Coates <Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com> wrote:
> Sunday morning driving through New Hartford, CT I
> spotted an interesting
> vehicle behind an abandoned garage. From a distance
> it had lines between a
> Healey and an MGA, more leaning to the Healey. It
> had the tail lights of
> an MGA. It had the chrome beads between the fenders
> and shrouds. It
> appeared to have a wide grill opening similar to a
> Nash Healey. The dash
> had a large round tach on the left in front of the
> steering wheel and the
> speedo was on the right in kph. The rest of the
> gages were in between. It
> also had a stubby shifter on a high tunnel. The
> hood had a center raised
> portion. I could not find a name on the vehicle.
> Any ideas?
>
> BOB COATES
> REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates at ingersoll-rand.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:47:14 -0400
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
BOB COATES
REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
AFTERMARKET DIVISION
THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
Blue One
Hundred To: Bob Coates
<Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com>,
<international_ HealeyHundred@aol.com
investor@yahoo. cc:
healeys@autox.team.net
com> Subject: Re:
STRANGE SITING
08/12/02 09:41
PM
Bob -
Is this the car that you saw? Only 106 were made:
http://www.datsuns.com/modelguide/spl213.jpg
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Coates <Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com> wrote:
> Sunday morning driving through New Hartford, CT I
> spotted an interesting
> vehicle behind an abandoned garage. From a distance
> it had lines between a
> Healey and an MGA, more leaning to the Healey. It
> had the tail lights of
> an MGA. It had the chrome beads between the fenders
> and shrouds. It
> appeared to have a wide grill opening similar to a
> Nash Healey. The dash
> had a large round tach on the left in front of the
> steering wheel and the
> speedo was on the right in kph. The rest of the
> gages were in between. It
> also had a stubby shifter on a high tunnel. The
> hood had a center raised
> portion. I could not find a name on the vehicle.
> Any ideas?
>
> BOB COATES
> REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 18:57:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
Page 3-75 of Mid America Corvette accessory catalog # 102F (just received
it) lists some "static cling" film for doing just what you are asking
about. Two year warranty. I think it is Mylar. It is precision cut to fit
Corvettes, but as fat as they are, You could probably trim to fit an Austin
Healey. The kit is $19.99. You can contact Mid America at 800-500-VETT,
or www.madirect.com.
No financial interest, just trying to help, totaled my last Vette into a
36" Oak tree.
John Snyder Four AH 3000s
> Hi list,
>
> How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
> from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud. There is a small air gap
> beneath the steel bar/top material which I can see daylight through and
> gaps & between the bar & the Tenax fasteners but wind motion flaps the
> top enough to noticeably scuff the paint. I have considered putting some
> kind of padding under the back part of the top where it contacts the
> paint but there isn't much space for anything. Not putting the top up is
> not an option for me. I don't live in a tropical climate. The marks can
> be wet sanded out & buffed but the paint won't stand this remedy many
> times. There is also a problem with the tonneau scuffing the paint but I
> have solved it by installing a non standard "short" tonneau. Also I
> don't drive with the windshield in the down position as the rubber
> windshield seal also flaps & scuffs the paint.
>
> Am I the only one who has had this problem? Paint scuffs on an expensive
> paint job are not fun. I guess that you can tell that I am not a long
> experienced Hundred Four owner.
>
> Thanks for your help,
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From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 19:13:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: rear axle "pre-load"
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From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:51:38 -0500
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Coates" <Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com>; <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
> Bob -
>
> Is this the car that you saw? Only 106 were made:
>
> http://www.datsuns.com/modelguide/spl213.jpg
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Bob Coates <Bob_Coates@ingersoll-rand.com> wrote:
> > Sunday morning driving through New Hartford, CT I
> > spotted an interesting
> > vehicle behind an abandoned garage. From a distance
> > it had lines between a
> > Healey and an MGA, more leaning to the Healey. It
> > had the tail lights of
> > an MGA. It had the chrome beads between the fenders
> > and shrouds. It
> > appeared to have a wide grill opening similar to a
> > Nash Healey. The dash
> > had a large round tach on the left in front of the
> > steering wheel and the
> > speedo was on the right in kph. The rest of the
> > gages were in between. It
> > also had a stubby shifter on a high tunnel. The
> > hood had a center raised
> > portion. I could not find a name on the vehicle.
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > BOB COATES
> > REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> > AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> > THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> > PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> > VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 20:16:09 -0700
Subject: Lucas headlamps
I'm trying to up the points on my Virtual Healey and I don't think Moss
carries these anymore ;)
Cheers,
John
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 01:07:06 EDT
Subject: Sighting in Danville, CA
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 22:21:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Looking for the Jaguar list address ?
list manager: http://www.jag-lovers.org/cgi-bin/majordomo
ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
> Does anyone know the address for the Jaguar list ?
>
> Jim L.
> 56 BN2
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 23:44:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
> I have the same problem on my BJ8. when the top is up yo can see themarks
>created by the tonnea on the rear shroud. i instaklled soem soft material but
>after a few miles it still leaves a mark. The boot vocver does the same thing.
Ron R
BJ8
>
> > How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
> > from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud.
> > Paint scuffs on an expensive paint job are not fun.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 23:46:10 -0700
Subject: concorso Italiano
Listers:
does anyone have a corral pass they are not going to use?
we are driving the E FHC from LA on Thursday and although we have a
parking pass for the Concorso we would like to park in the British car Corral.
Ron Rader
1967 E FHC
1965 BJ8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 00:51:31 -0700
Subject: Rear shroud paint scuff, take 2
I have the same problem on my BJ8.
When the top is up you can see the marks created by the tonneau on the rear
shroud.
I installed some soft material but it still leaves a mark.
The cover for the top when folded does the same thing.
Ron R
BJ8
> > How do you keep the soft top on the two seater models (Hundred Four)
> > > from scuffing the paint on the rear shroud.
> > > Paint scuffs on an expensive paint job are not fun.
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From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 03:51:45 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Greece Export BJ8
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Alan Alfano" <aalfano02@snet.net>
Subject: Greece Export BJ8
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 16:17:36 -0400
I received a phone call this week from a man restoring a Greece export BJ8.
It has wire wheels and no overdrive.
I have heard of Germany export big Healeys, having different parking lights
and steering wheel locks.
What options would have been on a Greece export BJ8 ?
Either legally required or owner selected that is specific to Greece
exports.
Thank You,
Alan Alfano
Editor, Big Healey Concours Guidelines
------- End of forwarded message -------
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 06:43:13 -0700
Subject: Re: STRANGE SITING
Bob Coates wrote:
> Sunday morning driving through New Hartford, CT I spotted an interesting
> vehicle behind an abandoned garage. From a distance it had lines between a
> Healey and an MGA, more leaning to the Healey. It had the tail lights of
> an MGA. It had the chrome beads between the fenders and shrouds. It
> appeared to have a wide grill opening similar to a Nash Healey. The dash
> had a large round tach on the left in front of the steering wheel and the
> speedo was on the right in kph. The rest of the gages were in between. It
> also had a stubby shifter on a high tunnel. The hood had a center raised
> portion. I could not find a name on the vehicle. Any ideas?
>
> BOB COATES
> REGIONAL SALES ENGINEER
> AFTERMARKET DIVISION
> THE TORRINGTON COMPANY
> PH 860-673-3881 FAX 860-673-2238
> VOICE MAIL 4138 CELL 860-480-4235
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:06:50 +0000
Subject: Stumble problem
I have two as yet unconfirmed suspicions - old fuel pump
not providing enough gas under load, or primary
ignition, or both.
Fuel - Sometimes when I turn on the ignition switch, I
get the reassuring load pump clatter for a few seconds,
then it stops as expected. Other times, I get a very
weak single click.
Ignition - car idling in garage with lights out (don't
ask)and ZAP a spark appears from the coil's high tension
lead to the + low tension lead.
Replace 'em both???????????????
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:52:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff, take 2
CB
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:16:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Stumble problem
That'd be a safe bet.
That coil problem definitely needs to be fixed. If a thorough cleaning and
new high-tension boot don't do it, then a replacement is in order.
Hard to say about the fuel pump. What you describe may or may not be
symptomatic of a problem. You need monitor the fuel pressure while the car
is being operated. (The previous owner of my XK-120 thought so highly of the
concept that he installed a fuel pressure gauge in the dash.)
Oh, and while we're on the subject, my BJ8 used to stumble after being driven
gently around town for a few days. Turned out that the "recommended" spark
plugs were a tad too cold for that sort of driving. A few trips to the
redline would burn off the deposits, and things would be back to normal.
Happy motoring,
John Miller
Hotlanta
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from the starter motor or solenoid. I've tried to manually operate the
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 10:48:39 EDT
Subject: Starting problems
Any ideas?
Dave, 57 BN4
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:01:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff, take 2
Charley Braum wrote:
> I don't know, Ron. Spell check seems to take some of the sponteani//
> spontentai// spontenntiall// - you know, impulsive style out of a message!
>
> CB
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:10:27 EDT
Subject: SPEEOMETER QUIT
I really did try to find the answer to this question in the archives but no
luck!
My speedometer quit suddenly.The cable was broken at the point it enters the
rear of the speedometer. I removed the stub that remained in the
speedometer , and replaced the cable. Still not working!
Is the problem the angle drive? When you buy the angle drive as shown in the
catalogs, do you get everything you need or are there some "innards" that
should also be replaced?
Is the replacing the angle drive a big job?
Thanks for any and all advice!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:13:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Larry Wysocki
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:18:03 EDT
Subject: Re: rear axle "pre-load"
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:26:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Start by isolating the problem to the starter motor, solenoid or starter
switch. Probably not the latter, since manual activation of the solenoid
doesn't work, either. If the solenoid doesn't click, that would normally be
indicative of a switch or solenoid problem, but since manually operating the
solenoid produces nothing, it suggests a problem either with the starter
motor or a loose electrical connection in the starter circuit. I'd re-check
all connections, PARTICULARLY the engine ground, before proceeding.
Then, if shorting across the starter terminals on the solenoid produces no
results, it's probably time to replace the starter motor. But you should
first confirm that by using a short battery cable to connect momentarily
straight from the battery to the starter. You can't be sure until you can
reliably produce the fault.
Keep us updated, please!
John Miller
Hotlanta
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:27:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Stainless steel fasteners
You might consider plating them yourself:
http://www.eastwood.com/
Search for item number "10049 Z". $69.99.
HTH,
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:40:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Stainless steel fasteners
Kent McLean wrote:
> Max Vanderploeg wrote:
> > I'm in the middle of a BN4 restoration & the pile of rusty screws, nuts, &
> > bolts is growing by the day. Is anyone aware of a company that sells these
> > fasteners in stainless steel, preferably as a set? I'd settle for a zinc
> > plated set.
>
> You might consider plating them yourself:
>
> http://www.eastwood.com/
>
> Search for item number "10049 Z". $69.99.
>
> HTH,
> Kent
> '56 100 BN-2
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:45:55 -0400
Subject: Temperature probe
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 16:42:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Had just this towards the end of our AH50 event. Starter sometimes good,
sometimes sluggish, sometimes nothing. I think I found the problem last
night. I think thrashing the poor lady round Thruxton racing circuit
must have loosened the connections to the starter solenoid. Tightened
them up and the starter spins faster than ever!
The fact that you can get nothing when you operate the solenoid manually
certainly indicates a problem with your battery-to-starter connections,
or the starter itself. Have you tried putting a bulb between the starter
motor connection (on the solenoid) and chassis? This will tell you if
the solenoid is doing its stuff - if it is, then your problem is either
within the starter motor or with your engine earthing strap (this must
be a really good connection!)
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 10:53:05 -0500
Subject: E MAIL TEST
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:08:39 -0500
Subject: FW: Rear Track Width, BT7
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brashear, Jack, N
> Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:37 AM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Rear Track Width, BT7
>
> Hi Listers, During my almost-finished restoration, I switched from wire
wheels to Healey bolt-on 5 stud hubs on the front. I used the wire wheel rear
hubs just by not installing the spline adaptor. I replaced all the stock
studs with 3" dirt track studs and I'm using wide face lug nuts. I'm using
3/4" spacers on the rear only. I'm using bolt-on 5.5x15 KN Minotaur alloy
wheels. Here's the problem: the front wheel track is perfect but the rear
wheel track seems excessively narrow, even with the spacers. I'm at the max
length of the 3" studs, so more spacers won't work. Did I do wrong using the
wire wheel rear axle?? Is it the manufactured wheel rim offset that's the
problem?? Is there another KN Minotaur wheel with a different offset?? Is
there a web site for KN?? I'm trying to tap the awesome knowledge of this
list.
> Thanks,
> Jack Brashear
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From dougi at shaw.ca
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:36:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Starting problems
I would suggest checking all the electrical connections related to the
starter. Take them apart, polish the connections with emery cloth, add
a very thin film of dilectric grease, and reassemble. You will also
want to take the starter out and make sure there is a good clean ground
(free of paint, dirt, and rust) between the starter case and the
engine. Don't forget the engine to chassis ground.
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: HealeyinNH@aol.com
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 7:48 am
Subject: Starting problems
> Been having an occasional, random, problem with the starter motor
> not
> operating. I can hear the fuel pump clicking away but there's not
> a sound
> from the starter motor or solenoid. I've tried to manually operate
> the
> solenoid and nothing happens but then I can let the car sit for,
> sometimes,
> just a few minutes and it starts perfectly. Other times it may
> take a day.
> Battery is good, lights work, horn works and it jump starts with
> the
> slightest push right away. I've had the starter motor out of the
> car and it
> operates on the bench. Put it back in and it works fine. Motor
> temp or
> outside air temp does not seem to be an influence.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Dave, 57 BN4
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From "Rich VanBuskirk" <rwvanbuskirk at ucdavis.edu>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:53:24 -0700
Subject: Bringing an engine out of hibernation
Well it's finally come time to start into my 1966 BJ8. It's been in storage
for about 14 years and is in need of a full frame-up restoration. It's
going to be a big project.
Before I start into the big tear-down, however, I'd like to fire up the
engine and see how it's held up. What I'd like to hear from the group are
some tips on how to prep an engine that hasn't been run for about 14-15
years. Anything from your favorite way of lubing up the block to assessing
the state of the floats in those SU carbs would be appreciated.
I'm assuming that it will be easier to approach this task before starting
into the disassembly of the car. (It's complete but has numerous areas of
problem rust, thus the need to work on the frame.) However, if there are
other options I'm open to hearing about them.
Thanks,
Rich
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:57:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
<< I'll catch grief from the concourse folks, but, these cars were built
for driving and racing and a few stone chips or top marks were not thought
of as a problem. I remember DMH at the big meet in Seven Springs, PA in '88
(correct me if I'm wrong, on the year only!) saying that he much more liked
the cars that were used, and a little beat up, as opposed to the 'spotless,
trailered ones'. >>
The only grief you'll catch from us concours (no "e") folks is misspelling
concours. I suspect many people are not aware that Healey concours
discourages trailer queens by allowing "normal road use wear" and "damage
enroute to the meet" (I got gold with a dent in my fender placed there at the
motel the day before arriving at Skamania in 93), by not being competitive --
if there's nothing to win, you don't try to beat the other guy by being
cleaner and shinier -- and by only judging gold-level cars once every other
year so there's no inclination to continue trailering them to protect their
"judgability."
So, those of you out there who are thinking about doing your cars to original
specs, don't be afraid to do concours for fear it means you'll have to
trailer your car.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
The only American magazine for British car enthusiasts.
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 13:09:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Stumble problem
<< Fuel - Sometimes when I turn on the ignition switch, I
get the reassuring load pump clatter for a few seconds,
then it stops as expected. Other times, I get a very
weak single click.
Ignition - car idling in garage with lights out (don't
ask)and ZAP a spark appears from the coil's high tension
lead to the + low tension lead.
Replace 'em both??????????????? >>
Definitely replace the coil - easy and relatively cheap. Possibly consider
replacing the fuel pump, but try taking it apart, cleaning up, replacing
points, and adjusting to specs (see Norman Nock's book or the workshop
manual) before replacing it.
Definitely also clean and check the carbs -- you could have a piston hanging
up in the carb.
Cheers
Gary
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 10:52:25 -0700
Subject: Lucas Headlamp
http://www.loftusdesign.net/lucasheadlamp.htm
Upon further research I found the following which looks close:
http://www.vintage-headlamp-restoration.co.uk/Headlamps.htm
Scroll down to the bottom ... and enlarge the Lucas Lemans sealed
beam unit. Was this unit made in a non-Leman's version?
-John
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:46:29 -0600
Subject: RE: Temperature probe
I don't know all the details of the different models, but are you
sure that the temp gauge is really supposed to measure the RADIATOR temp??
On every car I'm familiar with, the temp reading is taken high in the block
or in the head ---- the hottest part of the engine. A radiator temperature
gauge would be worthless until the thermostat opened. And if the thermostat
were stuck closed, the engine could overheat badly and you'd never see it on
the gauge. I'd go for the location just below the thermostat.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Broughel [mailto:brougheldp@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:46 AM
Subject: Temperature probe
Dear list:
I know that the Longbridge 100/6 with the two port head are some
what peculiar in many ways. When I got my car in boxes there was a
oil/temp guage with a silver(white) face , with a 3/8 pipe thread gizmo
to screw the temp bulb into the radiator. I had the radiator recored and
is now in place. I can't screw the temp bulb into place because the
receptical for the bulb has the same male threads as the bulb gizmo.
My questions are:
1. Do I have the wrong guage
2. Am I missing an adapter
3.Even though the cylinder head is different, there is a plug below the
thermostat housing like on the 6 port head, can I take the plug out and
put the temp bulb in there.
As always thanks in advance
Dennis Broughel.........Bn-4 ..........45281
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 14:29:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Stainless steel fasteners
Dang! The URL should have had an extra "co" in it.
For DIY zinc plating, try http://www.eastwoodco.com/
and search for item number "10049 Z".
I hate cmoputers. (sic) :-)
Kent
'56 100 BN-2
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:41:27 -0700
Subject: Re: SPEEOMETER QUIT
Maybe you're driving too fast - I had to follow you all the way across
Nevada, Utah, and part of Colorado a few weeks ago, remember!
To diagnose the speedo set-up: Jack the rear wheels - use jack stands -
start the engine use a forward gear, and run the drive-line slowly with the
cable disconnected at the speedo head. If the inner cable turns, the speedo
drive gears in the overdrive, and the angle drive are okay, the new cable is
okay, and the problem is the speedo head itself. (There is a remote
possibility that the angle drive is slipping - I've had it happen - and will
drive the cable, and not the speedo head)
If the cable is not turning, the angle drive is probably toast. Replacement
is easy - you can do it from underneath or take the tunnel cover off. No
other bits are required.
My own best guess is that something has gone wrong with the speedo head if
either the short angle drive cable (it's integral with the angle drive) or
the main cable break like that. You could try the speedo from the other car
to prove it out.
Cheers, Earl ------------- Victoria
----- Original Message -----
From: <LarryRPH@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 8:10 AM
Subject: SPEEOMETER QUIT
Listers,
I really did try to find the answer to this question in the archives but no
luck!
My speedometer quit suddenly.The cable was broken at the point it enters the
rear of the speedometer. I removed the stub that remained in the
speedometer , and replaced the cable. Still not working!
Is the problem the angle drive? When you buy the angle drive as shown in
the
catalogs, do you get everything you need or are there some "innards" that
should also be replaced?
Is the replacing the angle drive a big job?
Thanks for any and all advice!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:20:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
Bob
BJ7
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 15:31:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
<< Another interesting DMH quote, from the 1984 West Coast Meet in
Cottage Grove, Oregon, was "any color is a Healey color". >>
I believe he would have said "any colour is a Healey colour".
<grin>
Richard
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:40:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Temperature probe
The temperature sending unit in some cars is located in the header tank of
the radiator. In others, it is located in the engine head near the
thermostat housing. (I'm not sure of the car model versus sending unit
location specs. In my BJ7, the sender is in the engine head, and in at least
some 100-6's, it's in the header tank.)
I have observed that "engine head sender" cars tend to show higher temp
readings than "header tank sender" cars, especially after shutting down at
rest stops. Previous posts to the List in this subject area have discussed
the relative cooling-off characteristics of the radiator versus the engine
block which probably account for this.
Given a choice, I think I would prefer to have the temp sender (probe)
mounted in the head (thermostat housing area). It seems to me it provides a
truer representation of engine temp. And bear in mind that high temp
readings (over 212) don't necessarily indicate a problem, due to the higher
boiling point provided by a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix and the proper
pressure cap.
Bob
BJ7
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 15:57:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
Isn't it amazing that when someone says color, some folks hear it as
colour and here in Pittsburgh we hear keller, here.
CB
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 17:36:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
<< Another interesting DMH quote, from the 1984 West Coast Meet in
Cottage Grove, Oregon, was "any color is a Healey color".
>>
Sorry, I've heard that, too, but my view is that Donald was just being kind.
In fact, those who have gone through the production records not that there
were very, very few cars that were ever produced in colors other than those
available in the dealer lists. The idea that you could just stroll into your
Healey dealer and specify that you wanted it in two-tone Windsor Blue over
Octavian Gray (not that there's anything wrong with those colors), and get
the car delivered on the next boat just doesn't appear to be true.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 17:58:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Temperature probe
Hi Dennis,
Sounds like you may be missing the adapter piece. On your Longbridge BN4 the
temp. bulb should indeed go into the radiator and therefore you have the
correct gauge. This is one of the many features carried over from the
Hundreds.
Try to keep her original, it's fun to retain the peculiarities of these
early sixes.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 07:56:12 +1000
Subject: Re: Lucas Headlamp
The project is a credit to you and your skills.
Best
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 3:52 AM
Subject: Lucas Headlamp
> Here is a scan of what I was looking for:
>
> http://www.loftusdesign.net/lucasheadlamp.htm
>
> Upon further research I found the following which looks close:
>
> http://www.vintage-headlamp-restoration.co.uk/Headlamps.htm
>
> Scroll down to the bottom ... and enlarge the Lucas Lemans sealed
> beam unit. Was this unit made in a non-Leman's version?
>
> -John
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 08:08:54 +1000
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
Same thing happened here in Australia in 1977. DMH awarded his trophy for
'best Austin Healey' in Australia to a car with triple webers, roll bar,
side exhaust etc which was regularly driven on weekdays, and regularly raced
on weekends.
See pics of DMH, the car, and the trophy here:
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/1977_DMH_tour.html
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
> I'll catch grief from the concourse folks, but, these cars were built
> for driving and racing and a few stone chips or top marks were not thought
> of as a problem. I remember DMH at the big meet in Seven Springs, PA in
'88
> (correct me if I'm wrong, on the year only!) saying that he much more
liked
> the cars that were used, and a little beat up, as opposed to the
'spotless,
> trailered ones'.
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 19:18:10 -0400
Subject: Laguna Seca Historics 2002
Bill Emerson
"On the Road Again"
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 20:39:39 EDT
Subject: Sven's New Austin Healey
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From "Capt.Don" <captdon at usa.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 20:56:02 -0400
Subject: Re: [Bringing an engine out of hibernation]
Don Zielke
"Rich VanBuskirk" <rwvanbuskirk@ucdavis.edu> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Well it's finally come time to start into my 1966 BJ8. It's been in
storage
> for about 14 years and is in need of a full frame-up restoration. It's
> going to be a big project.
>
> Before I start into the big tear-down, however, I'd like to fire up the
> engine and see how it's held up. What I'd like to hear from the group are
> some tips on how to prep an engine that hasn't been run for about 14-15
> years. Anything from your favorite way of lubing up the block to assessing
> the state of the floats in those SU carbs would be appreciated.
>
> I'm assuming that it will be easier to approach this task before starting
> into the disassembly of the car. (It's complete but has numerous areas of
> problem rust, thus the need to work on the frame.) However, if there are
> other options I'm open to hearing about them.
>
> Thanks,
> Rich
Don Zielke
1960 BT7
HTB7L05788
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 21:21:08 -0400
Subject: Stainless fasteners
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 21:30:15 EDT
Subject: DISC THICKNESS
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 19:19:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Bringing an engine out of hibernation
If the car has been stored in an area where there
isn't too much humidity or standing water, the engine
should actually fire up with very little effort. If
anything, you should try the folloring first:
1. Drain the oil and put new oil in.
2. Take the spark plugs out and then hand turn the
crank pully through a few rotations. If it turns
easily, skip to #4.
3. If the crank does not turn easily, put a little
kerosene in each cylinder and let it sit for a few
days until it can be turned by hand. If it doesn't
free up, the cylinders/pitson rings are rusted/fused
and you need to pull the motor and rebuild it.
4. Clean out the carbs with a good carb cleaner.
5. Hook up the battery and turn on the ignition and
see if you get gas flowing into the carbs - if you do
then it should all be ready to go.
6. put the plugs back in and turn it over - if it
doeasn't start, check to see if you are getting a
spark at the plugs - if not do an ignition system
check. If ignition is working, it should start up
with little effort.
I've had my BJ8 sit as long as a year w/o running and
it still starts the first try every time.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Rich VanBuskirk <rwvanbuskirk@ucdavis.edu> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Well it's finally come time to start into my 1966
> BJ8. It's been in storage
> for about 14 years and is in need of a full frame-up
> restoration. It's
> going to be a big project.
>
> Before I start into the big tear-down, however, I'd
> like to fire up the
> engine and see how it's held up. What I'd like to
> hear from the group are
> some tips on how to prep an engine that hasn't been
> run for about 14-15
> years. Anything from your favorite way of lubing up
> the block to assessing
> the state of the floats in those SU carbs would be
> appreciated.
>
> I'm assuming that it will be easier to approach this
> task before starting
> into the disassembly of the car. (It's complete but
> has numerous areas of
> problem rust, thus the need to work on the frame.)
> However, if there are
> other options I'm open to hearing about them.
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 10:04:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Temperature probe
"R. Poague" wrote:
> Bob Frisby,
>
> The temperature sending unit in some cars is located in the header tank of
> the radiator. In others, it is located in the engine head near the
> thermostat housing. (I'm not sure of the car model versus sending unit
> location specs. In my BJ7, the sender is in the engine head, and in at least
> some 100-6's, it's in the header tank.)
>
> I have observed that "engine head sender" cars tend to show higher temp
> readings than "header tank sender" cars, especially after shutting down at
> rest stops. Previous posts to the List in this subject area have discussed
> the relative cooling-off characteristics of the radiator versus the engine
> block which probably account for this.
>
> Given a choice, I think I would prefer to have the temp sender (probe)
> mounted in the head (thermostat housing area). It seems to me it provides a
> truer representation of engine temp. And bear in mind that high temp
> readings (over 212) don't necessarily indicate a problem, due to the higher
> boiling point provided by a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix and the proper
> pressure cap.
>
> Bob
> BJ7
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:55:52 +0100
Subject: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
I had something very similar happen to me last year. It turned out that the
speedo had seized and broken the angle drive. (I suspect that the cable was OK
simply because it was almost new and hence still strong).
The cure was to rebuild the speedo, clean and re-lube the cable and replace the
right angle drive.
The latter is a bit of a squeeze on the side change cars (and may be on the
centre change cars also). I found one of these rubber loop wrenches (aka "Baby
Boa") very useful to loosen and tighten the drive into the rear extension of
the overdrive.
Replacement right angle drives come as a complete unit but check that the new
one turns freely before trying to fit it - they can vary.
Let us know how you get on, please!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:10:27 EDT
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Subject: SPEEOMETER QUIT
Listers,
I really did try to find the answer to this question in the archives but no
luck!
My speedometer quit suddenly.The cable was broken at the point it enters the
rear of the speedometer. I removed the stub that remained in the
speedometer , and replaced the cable. Still not working!
Is the problem the angle drive? When you buy the angle drive as shown in the
catalogs, do you get everything you need or are there some "innards" that
should also be replaced?
Is the replacing the angle drive a big job?
Thanks for any and all advice!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 11:31:19 -0400
Subject: Re: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
Randy Cooper
BT7
TR650 Tiger
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From "Bruno Verstraete" <bruno.verstraete at catey.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 18:10:30 +0200
Subject: Who was in UK for the Healey meet?
Would be fun to get in touch with all the listers who were at the Healey
meet in the UK at the end of July.
I met a couple of them, but I am sure far from all.
Regards,
Bruno Verstraete
BJ8 1966
BN1 Coupe 1954
bruno.verstraete@catey.com <mailto:bruno.verstraete@catey.com>
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:17:31 -0700
Subject: RE: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
Udo Putzke
Putzke's "FAHRSPASS"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Paul Negus
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 7:56 AM
To: Healey List (E-mail)
Subject: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
Larry
I had something very similar happen to me last year. It turned out that the
speedo had seized and broken the angle drive. (I suspect that the cable was
OK simply because it was almost new and hence still strong).
The cure was to rebuild the speedo, clean and re-lube the cable and replace
the right angle drive.
The latter is a bit of a squeeze on the side change cars (and may be on the
centre change cars also). I found one of these rubber loop wrenches (aka
"Baby Boa") very useful to loosen and tighten the drive into the rear
extension of the overdrive.
Replacement right angle drives come as a complete unit but check that the
new one turns freely before trying to fit it - they can vary.
Let us know how you get on, please!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 11:10:27 EDT
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
Subject: SPEEOMETER QUIT
Listers,
I really did try to find the answer to this question in the archives but no
luck!
My speedometer quit suddenly.The cable was broken at the point it enters the
rear of the speedometer. I removed the stub that remained in the
speedometer , and replaced the cable. Still not working!
Is the problem the angle drive? When you buy the angle drive as shown in
the
catalogs, do you get everything you need or are there some "innards" that
should also be replaced?
Is the replacing the angle drive a big job?
Thanks for any and all advice!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 13:53:29 EDT
Subject: Nose Bra
No association with Putske's, yada yada yada.
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:16:57 -0400
Subject: Tachometer
Bob Johnson
BJ8
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:31:44 -0400
Subject: Fuel gauge troubles
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 11:55:52 -0700
Subject: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
I see that Moss actually lists a 1st gear for the BJ8 but does not list the
Laygear. Has anyone had experience with the Moss 1st Gear? I am very curious
about it's quality. Additionally I am not 100% sure I am going to need a
Laygear but my guess is that I will. My present 1st gear sounds HORRIBLE
which I am told would likely also indicate the need for replacing the
Laygear.
So... I am sure I am not the first person to be faced with this problem. Can
anyone out there please recommend where I can go to get the highest quality
1st and Laygears for my BJ8 Transmission?
Your help is REALLY appreciated.
Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7 *converted to centershift and yes... running a BJ8 transmission and
overdrive unit.
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:03:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Nose Bra
> typically, if the bra is ill fitting you will get scuff marks, also and much
> worse is if the bra gets wet and is allowed to dry on the car, the result
> is
> a haze in the paint that will not buff out.
>
>
Sorry Fred, but I must disagree--I left the bra on for about 6 weeks,
including overnight--only had it off the day of the car show at Tahoe. I
went through about three days of rain and lots of sun: No hazing, no scuff
marks and NO stone chips (except for the ones that were there previously!).
I'll be at Encounter tomorrow thru Saturday and will be happy to dmeonstrate
these results to anyone who is interested. My car is, BTW, clear-coated.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:24:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge troubles
I didn't say this, and I don't mean to start another 'thread', but a
fresh cut gasket with Hylomar on both sides is the best sealing system I've
found for the sending units. After reassembly, just make sure the unit is
still grounded or you'll read empty all the time.
Good Luck,
CB
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:29:14 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:39:37 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
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From "Phil Leslie" <phil at lesliecompanies.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:30:09 -0500
Subject: Droopy rear end
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From Editorgary at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 17:20:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Who was in UK for the Healey meet?
<< Hi Listers,
Would be fun to get in touch with all the listers who were at the Healey
meet in the UK at the end of July.
I met a couple of them, but I am sure far from all.
Regards,
Bruno Verstraete >>
Does anyone know approximately how many Healeys were at the English meet --
am interested in knowing which of the two 50th meets was bigger (Classic and
Sportscar was saying that the English meet was expected to e the biggest
Healey meet ever (in other words bigger than Tahoe.) If the hobby managed to
have two meets the same summer each with over 500 cars, that would be pretty
noteworthy.
Cheers
Gary
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 16:41:56 -0500
Subject: RE: Disk Wheel Problems, BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken [mailto:Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 9:26 AM
To: Brashear, Jack, N
Subject: FW: Rear Track Width, BT7
Jack,
I have a 1 inch adapter on the rear with a 3/8 spacer. My adapter is an off
the shelf item and has the same bolt pattern for the studs and the holes.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Freese, Ken
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:27 AM
To: 'Brashear, Jack, N'
Subject: RE: Rear Track Width, BT7
Jack,
What is your wheel offset? My GT wheels seem intended for a VW Super Beetle
or something, so not very good in the offset department.
I will check my spacer tonight. Right now, I can't remember if I just have a
spacer or an bolt on adapter and a spacer. I know it is real borderline for
the tire sidewalls hitting the bolts on the bump stop box. I have to change
the bolts to countersunk screws. BJ8 anyway. On the front, I cut the splines
off the wire wheel hub and bolted on an adapter(easy with the BJ8 style hub)
Ken Freese
-----Original Message-----
From: Brashear, Jack, N [mailto:JNBrashear@garverengineers.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:09 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: FW: Rear Track Width, BT7
I've been having EMail troubles...I hope this request gets posted this time.
Jack
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brashear, Jack, N
> Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:37 AM
> To: 'Healey List'
> Subject: Rear Track Width, BT7
>
> Hi Listers, During my almost-finished restoration, I switched from wire
wheels to Healey bolt-on 5 stud hubs on the front. I used the wire wheel
rear
hubs just by not installing the spline adaptor. I replaced all the stock
studs with 3" dirt track studs and I'm using wide face lug nuts. I'm using
3/4" spacers on the rear only. I'm using bolt-on 5.5x15 KN Minotaur alloy
wheels. Here's the problem: the front wheel track is perfect but the rear
wheel track seems excessively narrow, even with the spacers. I'm at the max
length of the 3" studs, so more spacers won't work. Did I do wrong using
the
wire wheel rear axle?? Is it the manufactured wheel rim offset that's the
problem?? Is there another KN Minotaur wheel with a different offset?? Is
there a web site for KN?? I'm trying to tap the awesome knowledge of this
list.
> Thanks,
> Jack Brashear
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:32:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
Bob
----------
>From: "Phil Leslie" <phil@lesliecompanies.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Droopy rear end
>Date: Wed, Aug 14, 2002, 1:30 PM
>
> This may sound like a personal problem but it is actually my BJ8's left rear
> that droops. The left rear appears to be about 1" to 1 1/2" lower than the
> right. A friend in the club says that it's probably a weak spring. Does this
> sound right? If so, how difficult is the fix?
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 23:13:53 +0100
Subject: Re: Who was in UK for the Healey meet?
We have an unofficial figure for the number of Healeys and Austin
Healeys at our Friday 'Track Day' at Thruxton of in excess of 500, and
possibly up to 700. This includes the 50 special cars put on display for
the event by Paul Woolmer.
Not that we're in competition here - it's just great that we have been
able to pull together two very successful and very well-attended events
between us. And let's not forget the smaller events that have taken
place this year, in other parts of the world, that have all contributed
to an amazing 'global' golden anniversary.
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 16:28:32 -0600
Subject: RE: Temperature probe
Clearly it's "correct" for the temp probe to be in the radiator (and I admit
that surprises me), but it seems less than ideal. Obviously our love of
these cars doesn't depend on their technical perfection!
Bob Frisby
-----Original Message-----
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group [mailto:foxriverkid@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 9:05 AM
To: R. Poague
Cc: rfrisby; HealeyList
Subject: Re: Temperature probe
I think that the only difference between the two locations is the "warm,
fuzzy
feeling" factor. Doesn't matter where you read it, the coolant is the same
temperature.
"R. Poague" wrote:
> Bob Frisby,
>
> The temperature sending unit in some cars is located in the header tank of
> the radiator. In others, it is located in the engine head near the
> thermostat housing. (I'm not sure of the car model versus sending unit
> location specs. In my BJ7, the sender is in the engine head, and in at
least
> some 100-6's, it's in the header tank.)
>
> I have observed that "engine head sender" cars tend to show higher temp
> readings than "header tank sender" cars, especially after shutting down at
> rest stops. Previous posts to the List in this subject area have discussed
> the relative cooling-off characteristics of the radiator versus the engine
> block which probably account for this.
>
> Given a choice, I think I would prefer to have the temp sender (probe)
> mounted in the head (thermostat housing area). It seems to me it provides
a
> truer representation of engine temp. And bear in mind that high temp
> readings (over 212) don't necessarily indicate a problem, due to the
higher
> boiling point provided by a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix and the proper
> pressure cap.
>
> Bob
> BJ7
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From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 17:42:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
> This may sound like a personal problem but it is actually my BJ8's left rear
> that droops. The left rear appears to be about 1" to 1 1/2" lower than the
> right. A friend in the club says that it's probably a weak spring. Does this
> sound right? If so, how difficult is the fix?
>
>
Not too difficult if you have a whole day. For three or four days prior to the
operation, spray your favorite penetrating fluid on all the threads. Keep in
mind that most folks will tell you to replace leaf springs in pairs--myself
included. While you're there, check the shocks, shock links, and radius arms.
All of it is old so it makes very little sense to replace part of it, budget
considerations aside.
I just did the whole saggy rear end deal. I got my springs from Victoria
British
and they worked fine. It wouldn't hurt to have access to a hot wrench and a
sawzall, or equivalent.
It worked out to be 7 hours and 7 beers for the job. I figure I'm batting
1,000%.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 528 (New census numbers)
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From "Rich VanBuskirk" <rwvanbuskirk at ucdavis.edu>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 16:08:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Bringing an engine out of hibernation - Highlights and
Run or rebuild:
The jury is out on whether to run or rebuild an engine that has been sitting
idle for many years. Rusty cylinder walls, fused piston rings, pistons
frozen to connecting rods and bad carburetor diaphragms were all cited as
potential issues. The bottom line seems to be that if you can't hand turn
the crank pulley after a bit of prep work, or the valves show any signs of
being stuck, then you're better off putting your time into a rebuild.
Lubing the cylinders:
Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders is the lubricant of choice. Kerosene
was also mentioned as a option for loosening things up before trying to hand
crank the pulley shaft. With the plugs out you should be able to hand crank
the engine easily if everything is turning freely.
Oil pressure:
With the plugs out and a rag over the openings, crank the engine and check
the oil pressure. A good target is 50-55psi
Compression test:
Low compression can sometimes be improved by addition of Marvel Mystery oil
and hand turning of the engine two to three times a week. This approach
increased compression from 30 to 150psi over a span of two months.
Turning it over:
Clean the gas lines and carbs thoroughly. One alternative is to make a
gravity feed gas tank from a 3lb coffee can in order to take the fuel lines
and tank out of the picture temporarily. Make sure that there is fresh oil
in the sump. Hook everything up, turn it over and see what happens.
I'll be working through this process on my BJ8 over the next couple of weeks
and will let everyone know the end result. Thanks again for all of the
feedback!
Rich
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 19:40:23 -0400
Subject: Seat Belts
Alain Giguhre
BN7 Bits
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From OldHealeys at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:04:56 -0400
Subject: UK Meet Count
In a message dated Wed, 14 Aug 2002 4:20:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Editorgary writes:
> If the hobby managed to
> have two meets the same summer each with over 500 cars,
> that would be pretty
The British Meet was different than the Tahoe meet in that there were two
venues that people could attend. The first was Sunday to Saturday and had 200+
people. There were 20 cars from South Africa, about the same from Norway and
Sweden. The countries of Belgium, Denmark,France,Germany, Holland, and
Switzerland, all had cars. The USA was there but without cars, so the
British provide some exciting rides for the Yanks. (Prescot hill climb in the
rain in an open Healey Silverstone) Or Thruxton racing circuit in a factory
rally car!!
The Second venue was the two day meeting at Thruxton on Thursday and Friday...
BEAUTIFUL days!! The Healeys started to arrive early Thursday and kept on
arriving.... Abbots, Tickfords, Westlands (That went VERY fast on the track)
for the early Healey lovers. No Nash-Healeys. But every garage in Britain
that held an Austin-Healey must have been emptied. I did not see any
Jensen-Healeys.... A count in excess of 640 was being given by some energetic
people going up and down countless rows of Healeys!!
Let us say Thruxton certainly looked like more real estate was being used by
Healeys than at the Popular show in Tahoe.
Well done Chaps across the pond.
Bill Emerson
(Who had a marvelous time thanks to people from all the countries mentioned)
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:07:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:51:23 -0400
Subject: Re;Re: Fuel gauge troubles
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:03:53 +0800
Subject: Fw: Who was in UK for the Healey meet?
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From "Donald" <Mk23000 at attbi.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:56:27 -0500
Subject: "Duncan" e-bay
At e-bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1850558600
I wrote the seller and asked why no pics. The reply was as follows: (and
from : M & M Highfield <mm.highfield@ic24.net> )
<<no pictures as I am a dinasaur and have not worked out how to do it.Photos
in the Healey Book were taken earlier this year and show the car much better
than I could.I hope to be able to post copies of those pictures shortly.>>
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 19:34:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
My BJ7 has sagged more on the driver side since purchasing 3 years ago. I read a
list report indicating that Moss had replacements that were more accurate and
equal to the OEM spec in stock for the 6's and 4's. So B.T. (before Tahoe) I
installed a set which immediately increased the ground clearance about 1.25" at
the derriere. A.T. (after Tahoe) a re-measurement showed about the same sag as
with the old springs. Hello square one. Currently my precious is in the shop for
reversing the damage caused by a negligent SUV pilot (please don't ask). The old
italian craftsman doing the panel beating is going to rearc the springs, not
with
a press but by hammering them into a tighter curve. He claims the work hardening
will hold the curve better and he can adjust the driver side for more lift. Will
be interesting to see how well it works.
Cheers,
John
62 BJ7
02 VBN1
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 22:34:33 -0400
Subject: BJ8 swivel pin washers
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From "Max Vanderploeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 22:42:17 -0400
Subject: To be original or not be original
Mick VanderPloeg
'57 BN4
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
To: "'Healeys (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:24:11 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 swivel pin washers
Don't know who would have a selection of washers for the Healey kingpins - I
would try Nocks.
I have used MGB washers - they are in plentiful supply (at least here in
B.C.) I made a spacer out of household copper wire to get the hole a bit
smaller to keep the washer from floating around. I figured that the round
section of the spacer would also let the grease get in where it needs to be.
Seems to have worked just fine.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "bjcap" <bjcap@frontiernet.net>
To: "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 7:34 PM
Subject: BJ8 swivel pin washers
Who lately has the varing thickness floating thrust washers for the BJ8
front suspention?
Can MGB washers be used (they do fit in the trunnion) but are bigger in the
inside dia hole.
Thanks,
Carroll Phillips
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From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:13:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Nose Bra
> In a message dated 8/14/02 2:26:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> fred.scheuble@intel.com writes:
>
>
> > typically, if the bra is ill fitting you will get scuff marks, also and
much
> > worse is if the bra gets wet and is allowed to dry on the car, the
result
> > is
> > a haze in the paint that will not buff out.
> >
> >
>
> Sorry Fred, but I must disagree--I left the bra on for about 6 weeks,
> including overnight--only had it off the day of the car show at Tahoe. I
> went through about three days of rain and lots of sun: No hazing, no
scuff
> marks and NO stone chips (except for the ones that were there
previously!).
> I'll be at Encounter tomorrow thru Saturday and will be happy to
dmeonstrate
> these results to anyone who is interested. My car is, BTW, clear-coated.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 20:44:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
>From what I've seen, keeping a car totally "factory"
doesn't have much bearing on the value of the car
unless it is a gold ++ level concourse, particularly a
car with a long or unique pedigree.
Otherwise, if you are planning on driving the car
often and are satisfied with you car being B+/A-
rather than A+++ , then I would highly suggest you set
it up the way you want to and enjoy it as much as
possible. Besides, healey blue over white is still a
factory color combination for a BN4, and is very
attractive.
I deal with this issue on both of my healeys, there's
nothing on either car that can't be taken off and the
original stuff bolted on. So eventhough my BJ8 is got
alot of Mods on it (rear brake disks, rose-jointed
anti-roll bar, pertronix, facet fuel pump, six bladed
radiator fan, ramflo air filters, excel radiator
core), the car can be converted to original spec with
very little effort, but the car is much more reliable
and runs like a banshee = bigger smiles on a daily
basis.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Max Vanderploeg <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> I have a philosophical question. I'm rapidly
> approaching a crossroads in my
> early BN4 (#38789) restoration. The car has all of
> the original bits &
> pieces, including the 2 port head & H type carbs.
> The original colors were
> Old English Ivory with black top & interior. The
> question is whether to
> maintain total originality or go my own way. I
> admit that I like the idea of
> turning the car back into what it was when it left
> the factory, but would that
> be at the expense of my driving enjoyment? If I
> installed a 6 port head, I
> could always slap the original head back on if I
> sell the car, however, the
> paint is another story. Is it worth keeping the
> original colors per the
> British Motor Heritage Trust Certificate, or paint
> it a color I like better
> (Healey blue over ivory looks pretty good). Does
> factory originality make
> that much of a difference in price? I'm open to all
> opinions, so don't hold
> back!
>
> Mick VanderPloeg
> '57 BN4
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 01:06:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Nose Bra
CB
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 22:11:27 -0700
Subject: non-healey humor
Ira
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 02:50:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear shroud paint scuff
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From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 20:24:35 +1000
Subject: Re: Nose Bra
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 05:54:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Nose Bra
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From <paul at jenningsok.freeserve.co.uk>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 12:16:53 +0000
Subject: Oil Seal
_______________________________________________________________________
Freeserve AnyTime, only #13.99 per month with one month's FREE trial!
For more information visit http://www.freeserve.com/time/ or call free on 0800
970 8890
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 07:59:13 -0500
Subject: Syncros
Thanks for your inputs to the list, Mark
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From John New <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 15 Aug 2002 09:11:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
I have the exact opposite problem: my rear springs have too much of an
arch, and the car (BJ8) sits much higher than it is supposed to. A Phase
II BJ8, which normally sits higher, just looks silly riding even higher
than that. The car has recently come out of a very long restoration
process, and the restorer told me the springs would settle. Well, it's
been almost a year since I got the car back, and the rear end is still
at the same position it was when I picked up the car.
When I asked him about it, the restorer finally admitted that the car
had been on those springs since mid-'94. I think they've done all the
settling they're going to do! So, off it is to the spring shop to have
them re-arched.
Any tips on how to tell the spring shop just exactly how much arch to
take out? Is it as simple as saying "Lower the car x inches", or is
there more to it than that?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-08-14 at 16:30, Phil Leslie wrote:
> This may sound like a personal problem but it is actually my BJ8's left rear
> that droops. The left rear appears to be about 1" to 1 1/2" lower than the
> right. A friend in the club says that it's probably a weak spring. Does this
> sound right? If so, how difficult is the fix?
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:21:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Gasoline
One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I am unsure as to how to
access the archives which I hear mentioned) is fuel. I would think that was a
big problem, or else it has been solved and everyone knows the answer(s). Of
course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily (into the late 1970s)
leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on "Flying A"
(Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's 101 was OK, but not quite as
good.
Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can find, but:
(1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can still be found, desirable?
Mandatory?
(2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
(3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make everything OK?
(4) Any other helpful suggestions?
Thanks to all in advance.
Dick Hosmer
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from Brit. Wire Wheel for approx. 2 years. I have clocked a whole 1000
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:34:42 -0500
Subject: New Wire Wheel help
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:30:16 +0100
Subject: UK Meet Count & 100 Register
Having been very fortunate to be able to attend both the Tahoe and the
UK event I am not sure that comparisons will get us anywhere. They were
both great in their own way with a similar number of cars attending. I
doubt if any of the organisers will now exact numbers because I am sure
that there were Healeys at both events that were not formally booked in.
For example at Thruxton people were just paying at the gate to come in.
There were so many arriving at the peak that I cannot see how anybody
could have recorded their arrival accurately.
On the Friday at Thuxton my wife and I set up a special desk to record
all the 100s that arrived. The plan was to either check owners records
on the 100 Register or add any that were missing. We were very busy at
times and did not catch everybody. The parking marshalls asked all 100
owners to come to our desk but still we missed some.
We set up a desk again on the Saturday in the main marquee and collect
more information but still we found more 100s in the outfield later in
the day.
As I say direct comparisons are not going to get us very far.
Incidentally we collected 100 Register information at both events plus
the odd one at Limpley Stoke run by Trudy and Peter Healey.
We have a massive update exercise to now go through which will include
around 90 new 100 registrations from Australia and an unspecified number
still to arrive from the Belgium Club.
I estimate that after this we will be getting quite close to 2000
registrations. I will publish figures for those who are interested when
we get this all sorted out.
All the best
>
>
>
>The British Meet was different than the Tahoe meet in that there were two
>venues
>that people could attend. The first was Sunday to Saturday and had 200+
>people.
>There were 20 cars from South Africa, about the same from Norway and Sweden.
>The countries of Belgium, Denmark,France,Germany, Holland, and Switzerland,
>all had cars. The USA was there but without cars, so the British provide some
>exciting rides for the Yanks. (Prescot hill climb in the rain in an open
>Healey
>Silverstone) Or Thruxton racing circuit in a factory rally car!!
>
>The Second venue was the two day meeting at Thruxton on Thursday and Friday...
>
>BEAUTIFUL days!! The Healeys started to arrive early Thursday and kept on
>arriving.... Abbots, Tickfords, Westlands (That went VERY fast on the track)
>for
>the early Healey lovers. No Nash-Healeys. But every garage in Britain that
>held an Austin-Healey must have been emptied. I did not see any Jensen-
>Healeys.... A count in excess of 640 was being given by some energetic people
>going up and down countless rows of Healeys!!
>
>Let us say Thruxton certainly looked like more real estate was being used by
>Healeys than at the Popular show in Tahoe.
>Well done Chaps across the pond.
>
>Bill Emerson
>(Who had a marvelous time thanks to people from all the countries mentioned)
>
--
John Harper
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:05:36 -0600
Subject: RE: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
I'd say you can count on needing a laygear. New ones are
occasionally available, but rebuilts are common, and should work fine.
Either way, they aren't cheap. I've found A-H Spares (www.ahspares.co.uk)
to be an excellent source of gearbox (and other) parts, with VERY
competitive pricing. When they rebuild a laygear, they usually machine off
1st gear and weld on a new one.
I recently had a BJ8 gearbox rebuilt, didn't need much except
bearings and synchro ("baulk") rings. I got new (steel) rings from A-H
Spares and cross-hatched the working surfaces lightly with a Dremel tool.
Theory is that this will improve the synchro action. The 'box is not yet
back in the car, so I can't report on the results. Has anyone out there
ever done anything like this?
Bob Frisby
-----Original Message-----
From: matt wilson [mailto:mwilson18@cox.net]
Subject: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
Dear Healey Forum-
I am about to have my transmission rebuilt and I am trying to run down what
to
do about these most difficult to locate parts.
I see that Moss actually lists a 1st gear for the BJ8 but does not list the
Laygear. Has anyone had experience with the Moss 1st Gear? I am very
curious
about it's quality. Additionally I am not 100% sure I am going to need a
Laygear but my guess is that I will. My present 1st gear sounds HORRIBLE
which I am told would likely also indicate the need for replacing the
Laygear.
So... I am sure I am not the first person to be faced with this problem.
Can
anyone out there please recommend where I can go to get the highest quality
1st and Laygears for my BJ8 Transmission?
Your help is REALLY appreciated.
Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 BT7 *converted to centershift and yes... running a BJ8 transmission and
overdrive unit.
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 10:26:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
Too bad we can't shim to compensate for droop.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
> Listers,
>
> I have the exact opposite problem: my rear springs have too much of an
> arch, and the car (BJ8) sits much higher than it is supposed to. A Phase
> II BJ8, which normally sits higher, just looks silly riding even higher
> than that. The car has recently come out of a very long restoration
> process, and the restorer told me the springs would settle. Well, it's
> been almost a year since I got the car back, and the rear end is still
> at the same position it was when I picked up the car.
>
> When I asked him about it, the restorer finally admitted that the car
> had been on those springs since mid-'94. I think they've done all the
> settling they're going to do! So, off it is to the spring shop to have
> them re-arched.
>
> Any tips on how to tell the spring shop just exactly how much arch to
> take out? Is it as simple as saying "Lower the car x inches", or is
> there more to it than that?
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> 67 BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 10:37:26 -0400
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
The satisfaction and enjoyment you will get out of the Healey in the color
of your choice
will far outweigh the possible added value of the factory color. Follow
your heart, go with Healey Blue over Ivory.
Just my $.02
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Max Vanderploeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 10:42 PM
Subject: To be original or not be original
> I'm open to all opinions, so don't hold
> back!
>
> Mick VanderPloeg
> '57 BN4
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:30:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Gasoline
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:21 AM
Subject: Re: Gasoline
> Listers,
>
> One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I am unsure as to how to
> access the archives which I hear mentioned) is fuel. I would think that
was a
> big problem, or else it has been solved and everyone knows the answer(s).
Of
> course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily (into the late 1970s)
> leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on "Flying A"
> (Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's 101 was OK, but not quite
as
> good.
>
> Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can find, but:
> (1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can still be found, desirable?
> Mandatory?
> (2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
> (3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make everything OK?
> (4) Any other helpful suggestions?
>
> Thanks to all in advance.
>
> Dick Hosmer
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 17:28:22 +0200
Subject: Re: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
in the latest Revcounter there is an add from SC Parts Group www.scparts.co.uk
with the
following on Laygear Clusters:
##Quote:
SC909 & SC910 (BN7, BT7 & BJ7) #200,00
SC911 (BJ8) #195,00
Laygears for some models have not been available for several years. Produced
from forgings
to ensure maximum tooth strength, which are then comuter machined into gear
blanks. These
are then gear cut, heat treated and then ground internally and on each end to
ensure taht
these laygers are a perfect and accurate reproduction.
Currently under final stages of manufacture & available very soon.
##End of quote
Sounds good for me. No personal connection, just FYI
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'matt wilson'" <mwilson18@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 4:05 PM
Subject: RE: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
> Matt,
>
> I'd say you can count on needing a laygear. New ones are
> occasionally available, but rebuilts are common, and should work fine.
> Either way, they aren't cheap. I've found A-H Spares (www.ahspares.co.uk)
> to be an excellent source of gearbox (and other) parts, with VERY
> competitive pricing. When they rebuild a laygear, they usually machine off
> 1st gear and weld on a new one.
>
> I recently had a BJ8 gearbox rebuilt, didn't need much except
> bearings and synchro ("baulk") rings. I got new (steel) rings from A-H
> Spares and cross-hatched the working surfaces lightly with a Dremel tool.
> Theory is that this will improve the synchro action. The 'box is not yet
> back in the car, so I can't report on the results. Has anyone out there
> ever done anything like this?
>
> Bob Frisby
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 11:32:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:41:06 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'matt wilson'" <mwilson18@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: RE: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
> Matt,
>
> I'd say you can count on needing a laygear. New ones are
> occasionally available, but rebuilts are common, and should work fine.
> Either way, they aren't cheap. I've found A-H Spares (www.ahspares.co.uk)
> to be an excellent source of gearbox (and other) parts, with VERY
> competitive pricing. When they rebuild a laygear, they usually machine
off
> 1st gear and weld on a new one.
>
> I recently had a BJ8 gearbox rebuilt, didn't need much except
> bearings and synchro ("baulk") rings. I got new (steel) rings from A-H
> Spares and cross-hatched the working surfaces lightly with a Dremel tool.
> Theory is that this will improve the synchro action. The 'box is not yet
> back in the car, so I can't report on the results. Has anyone out there
> ever done anything like this?
>
> Bob Frisby
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: matt wilson [mailto:mwilson18@cox.net]
> Subject: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
>
>
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I am about to have my transmission rebuilt and I am trying to run down
what
> to
> do about these most difficult to locate parts.
>
> I see that Moss actually lists a 1st gear for the BJ8 but does not list
the
> Laygear. Has anyone had experience with the Moss 1st Gear? I am very
> curious
> about it's quality. Additionally I am not 100% sure I am going to need a
> Laygear but my guess is that I will. My present 1st gear sounds HORRIBLE
> which I am told would likely also indicate the need for replacing the
> Laygear.
>
> So... I am sure I am not the first person to be faced with this problem.
> Can
> anyone out there please recommend where I can go to get the highest
quality
> 1st and Laygears for my BJ8 Transmission?
>
> Your help is REALLY appreciated.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7 *converted to centershift and yes... running a BJ8 transmission
and
> overdrive unit.
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From "Bob Johnson" <imdatabob at earthlink.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 11:54:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing Question
Bulletin
5 degrees - 17/64" (.265625 or 6.747 mm)
10 degrees - 17/32" (.53125 or 13.494 mm)
12 degrees - 21/32" (.65625 or 16.669 mm)
15 degrees - 51/64" (.796875 or 20.241 mm)
my calcs:
diameter PI circumference len 1 deg
8 3.141593 25.13274 0.069813
deg hdth in. 16th in.
5 0.35 5/16-3/8
12 0.84 13/16
15 1.05 1
35 2.44 2 7/16
I don't really know how much diff .2 makes (at 15 deg), but I would guess
rather a lot. Am I doing something wrong, do the crank pulleys come in
difference sizes?
Bob Johnson
66 BJ8 36653
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:57:57 -0700
Subject: Re: New Wire Wheel help
You could try Bull Frog Rust Blocker. http://www.bull-frog.com I've used the
Rust Remover on garden tools, shop tools, old sinks, etc and it puts down a
protective barrier to seal the metal. The blocker seems better suited for your
application though.
Cheers,
John
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 10:32:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing Question
Regards,
John
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From TRICARB at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 14:44:50 EDT
Subject: Plug removal tool
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 15:37:29 EDT
Subject: Re: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
Thee was no way to get at the angle drive from underneath the car. So, I took
the trans tunnel off one more time. I got the angle drive off and discovered
that a plug (looks like a miniature freeze plug) at the angle had come loose,
allowing the gear to also come out when the car travels in reverse.
I found a new plug, cleaned and lubed everything and re-installed. THe speedo
worked fine!! I was ready to order a new angle drive and wound up fixing
the old one at the great expenditure of 40 cents.
Thank you and all the listers that took the time to answer my questions! You
guys saved me big bucks!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 13:22:50 -0700
Subject: Re: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
Bob
----------
>From: LarryRPH@aol.com
>To: Paul.Negus@iplbath.com, Healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: SPEEDOMETER QUIT
>Date: Thu, Aug 15, 2002, 12:37 PM
>
> Paul,
>
> Thee was no way to get at the angle drive from underneath the car. So, I took
> the trans tunnel off one more time. I got the angle drive off and discovered
> that a plug (looks like a miniature freeze plug) at the angle had come loose,
> allowing the gear to also come out when the car travels in reverse.
>
> I found a new plug, cleaned and lubed everything and re-installed. THe speedo
> worked fine!! I was ready to order a new angle drive and wound up fixing
> the old one at the great expenditure of 40 cents.
>
> Thank you and all the listers that took the time to answer my questions! You
> guys saved me big bucks!
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 14:57:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. To be original or not be original
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 22:42:17 -0400
From: "Max Vanderploeg" <MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com>
Subject: To be original or not be original
I have a philosophical question.
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 18:24:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Plug removal tool
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <TRICARB@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 2:44 PM
Subject: Plug removal tool
> Hi, for a photo of the tool to remove the O/D notched drain plug go to:
> http://www.members.aol.com/healeyhundred/OilPlug.jpg
> One can be purchased at most hardware stores. Cheers, Bill
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From "John and Felicia Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 19:04:20 -0400
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
When "properly" done, there isn't even a concours deduction for using a
factory original color that wasn't originally on your car, but was available
for your model year. The deduction for a factory standard Healey color that
wasn't available for your model is modest.
I would dare say that neither would have a noticeable effect on the value of
the car restored to any level of quality other than concours (including a
very expensive restoration to "popular" standard.) "Earl Scheib" jobs
excluded.
By the way, as best I can tell the most expensive cars at auctions like
Barret-Jackson aren't councours. In fact, some of them are clearly
"incorrect" colors.
another 2 cents worth.
John
62BT7
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From John <john4 at attbi.com>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 16:10:09 -0700
Subject: Mendocino Tour August 24
The Golden Gate Austin Healey Club will sponsor the annual Mendocino Run up
the North Coast on Saturday, August 24, returning to the Bay Area on Sunday
August 25. Departure is from the parking lot of the former Remark's Harbor
House in Vallejo at 9AM Saturday.
To get to the former Harbor House (now called the Barge or something
like
that) take I-80 to Tennessee Street in Vallejo. If heading east exit right
and head back over the freeway. Follow Tennessee Street to the end at Mare
Island Way at the entrance to the old Mare Island Navy Yard. Turn left.
Take your first right onto Harbor Way. The restaurant is about a < mile up
on the left.
This year we're going to vary the run up and spend more time on the
coast.
Here's the plan: From Vallejo we'll head north through Napa to Calistoga
on the Silverado Trail. Then we head west on Petrified Forest/Porter Creek
Road/Mark West Springs Road to 101. Then we will take River Road to Route
116 down the Russian River to Jenner where we will pick up Route 1 north to
Mendocino/Fort Bragg. We have also arranged for a dinner at the Little
River Inn just south of Mendocino.
We will be staying at the Tradewinds Lodge in Ft. Bragg, and there may
still be some rooms available there under the name "Austin Healey". Call
707-964-4761. We need to know how many will be coming and how many will be
coming for dinner. If you're interested in making this trip with us, make
your reservations at the Tradewinds, then contact John or Karen Trifari at
408 541-9608 or at john4@attbi.com.
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <fred.scheuble@intel.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 16:25:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Gasoline
I have put about 25,000 miles on my overhauled engine over a period of many
years, at least 15,000 of it using unleaded premium gas, no particular
brand. I use Marvel Mystery Oil, as do many Healey friends, per
directions...4 ounces per 10 gallons of gas. Valves and head are stock,
timing is per specs. If there are any adverse side effects, they have yet to
rear their ugly heads (not to say they won't someday).
Bob
'63 BJ7
RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
Listers,
One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I am unsure as to how to
access the archives which I hear mentioned) is fuel. I would think that was
a
big problem, or else it has been solved and everyone knows the answer(s).
Of
course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily (into the late 1970s)
leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on "Flying A"
(Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's 101 was OK, but not quite as
good.
Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can find, but:
(1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can still be found, desirable?
Mandatory?
(2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
(3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make everything OK?
(4) Any other helpful suggestions?
Thanks to all in advance.
Dick Hosmer
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at gate-way.net>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 20:00:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Gasoline
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 18:39:37 -0700
Subject: New Rear Springs (was Droopy rear end)
It's been a problem with new rear springs on and off for quite a while,
especially, it seems, for the BJ8.
A friend here in Victoria installed new rear springs in his BJ8 while doing
a complete restoration. They were sourced from M*** about 3 years ago. Not
only did the car sit high, as you describe, but the ride was pogo-stick like
at the rear - very odd, and possibly unsafe in wet weather. The basis for
comparison was my own BJ8, still on it's original springs.
My friend eventually refurbished the car's original springs, which were in
good shape, and re-installed them - problem solved.
The point I make is that even if you have the springs re-arched so that the
ride height is correct, the car is not going to ride right - it'l be stiff
and jittery while the front will seem to be too soft.
If you are still lucky enough to have the car's original rear springs, and
they're useable, that may be the best way to go. Other than that, I would
investigate what is available currently from the suppliers, given the
problem.
Maybe some input from a couple of listers in the business would help -
Michael Salter, David Nock, are you guys out there? Or maybe talk to AH
Spares in the UK and see what they've managed to do about rear springs.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
Listers,
I have the exact opposite problem: my rear springs have too much of an
arch, and the car (BJ8) sits much higher than it is supposed to. A Phase
II BJ8, which normally sits higher, just looks silly riding even higher
than that. The car has recently come out of a very long restoration
process, and the restorer told me the springs would settle. Well, it's
been almost a year since I got the car back, and the rear end is still
at the same position it was when I picked up the car.
When I asked him about it, the restorer finally admitted that the car
had been on those springs since mid-'94. I think they've done all the
settling they're going to do! So, off it is to the spring shop to have
them re-arched.
Any tips on how to tell the spring shop just exactly how much arch to
take out? Is it as simple as saying "Lower the car x inches", or is
there more to it than that?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-08-14 at 16:30, Phil Leslie wrote:
> This may sound like a personal problem but it is actually my BJ8's left
rear
> that droops. The left rear appears to be about 1" to 1 1/2" lower than the
> right. A friend in the club says that it's probably a weak spring. Does
this
> sound right? If so, how difficult is the fix?
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From "Max Vanderploeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 21:48:39 -0400
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4
----- Original Message -----
From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
> Any "restoration" in which there is a color change should, if one is
really
> interested in the financial value of the result, be such that the original
> color is not discernable because there is none of it left. Any time any
car
> is repainted a different color without a complete stripping of the
original
> color one is faced with the "Earl Scheib Syndrome". That is the paint job
> seems inferior simply because of the fact that the original color is
> apparant in so many areas. Such a color change reduces the desireability
of
> a '92 Honda just as much as a Healey.
>
> When "properly" done, there isn't even a concours deduction for using a
> factory original color that wasn't originally on your car, but was
available
> for your model year. The deduction for a factory standard Healey color
that
> wasn't available for your model is modest.
>
> I would dare say that neither would have a noticeable effect on the value
of
> the car restored to any level of quality other than concours (including a
> very expensive restoration to "popular" standard.) "Earl Scheib" jobs
> excluded.
>
> By the way, as best I can tell the most expensive cars at auctions like
> Barret-Jackson aren't councours. In fact, some of them are clearly
> "incorrect" colors.
>
> another 2 cents worth.
> John
> 62BT7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 22:42:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Stainless steel fasteners
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From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at cylogix.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 23:04:25 -0400
Subject: Wouldn't start when hot
I tried searching the archives but all I came up with was a mention that if
you fit a coil meant for a ballast system and you don't have a ballast
system then it will become very hot ... could this be the case? The new coil
was 2/3rds smaller than my old coil (dated 1976) and the box listed that it
fit BMW and Landrover (didn't specify what models).
Andy
'67 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 23:15:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Seal
> the 4 cylinder Healey will require the engine to be removed and striped.
>
What color do you recommend?
Michael
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 22:03:11 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
Note that the synchro rings were changed to steel by the factory for the
BJ8's - all the earlier Healey gearboxes were built with brass synchro
rings. Supposedly, for some reason which escapes me right now, they are not
supposed to be interchangeable. Too bad, because the steel rings in the
BJ8's last a lot longer!
There is another option: a sintered bronze ring made by one of the
Australian suppliers. I sourced a set from David Nock at British Car
Specialists awhile back - they seem to work fine and theoretically will last
longer than the brass ones - I used them in an early topshift box with a
100-6 gearset inside, in my BJ8 for awhile, before I installed a Smitty /
Toyota conversion.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
To: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>; "'matt wilson'" <mwilson18@cox.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
Just because the "mating" surface on the gear ring is case hardened, I be
hard pressed to suggest using steel baulk rings. The original brass variety
last for many many years ( we all know that we don't abuse our cars anymore)
and run quietly. Furthermore, the synchro rings work by friction, removing
material would do little more than exasperate wear rates and decrease
overall efficiency in the long haul.
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'matt wilson'" <mwilson18@cox.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: RE: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
> Matt,
>
> I'd say you can count on needing a laygear. New ones are
> occasionally available, but rebuilts are common, and should work fine.
> Either way, they aren't cheap. I've found A-H Spares (www.ahspares.co.uk)
> to be an excellent source of gearbox (and other) parts, with VERY
> competitive pricing. When they rebuild a laygear, they usually machine
off
> 1st gear and weld on a new one.
>
> I recently had a BJ8 gearbox rebuilt, didn't need much except
> bearings and synchro ("baulk") rings. I got new (steel) rings from A-H
> Spares and cross-hatched the working surfaces lightly with a Dremel tool.
> Theory is that this will improve the synchro action. The 'box is not yet
> back in the car, so I can't report on the results. Has anyone out there
> ever done anything like this?
>
> Bob Frisby
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: matt wilson [mailto:mwilson18@cox.net]
> Subject: BJ8 1st Gears and Laygears
>
>
> Dear Healey Forum-
> I am about to have my transmission rebuilt and I am trying to run down
what
> to
> do about these most difficult to locate parts.
>
> I see that Moss actually lists a 1st gear for the BJ8 but does not list
the
> Laygear. Has anyone had experience with the Moss 1st Gear? I am very
> curious
> about it's quality. Additionally I am not 100% sure I am going to need a
> Laygear but my guess is that I will. My present 1st gear sounds HORRIBLE
> which I am told would likely also indicate the need for replacing the
> Laygear.
>
> So... I am sure I am not the first person to be faced with this problem.
> Can
> anyone out there please recommend where I can go to get the highest
quality
> 1st and Laygears for my BJ8 Transmission?
>
> Your help is REALLY appreciated.
> Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 BT7 *converted to centershift and yes... running a BJ8 transmission
and
> overdrive unit.
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 23:38:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Gasoline
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: Gasoline
> Listers,
>
> One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I am unsure as to how to
> access the archives which I hear mentioned) is fuel. I would think that
was a
> big problem, or else it has been solved and everyone knows the answer(s).
Of
> course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily (into the late 1970s)
> leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on "Flying A"
> (Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's 101 was OK, but not quite
as
> good.
>
> Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can find, but:
> (1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can still be found, desirable?
> Mandatory?
> (2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
> (3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make everything OK?
> (4) Any other helpful suggestions?
>
> Thanks to all in advance.
>
> Dick Hosmer
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:52:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Wouldn't start when hot
A theoretical question here, that has just occurred to me when reading
this post, and that may have practical implications..
Ignoring the inductive effect, current is flowing through the coil
primary when the points are closed. For points that are set to a dwell
of 35 degrees, the current will be flowing for 35/60 of the time
(6-cyl). Coil temperature will therefore be very dependent on dwell
angle. Leaning this down to the lower end of acceptable dwell could
lower the coil temperature.
As I say, this ignores the effect of inductance, which may be the
overriding factor at high revs / high temperature.
Any comments from the theorists out there?
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 10:47:25 +0100
Subject: Re: Wouldn't start when hot
I would go back to your supplier. Mine (Dunlop brand but made in India) are
nearly 20 years old and are only just starting to show signs of minor rust in
places.
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
---------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:34:42 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject: New Wire Wheel help
Listers,
I have been running a NEW set of painted (gray) Dayton wire wheels
from Brit. Wire Wheel for approx. 2 years. I have clocked a whole 1000
miles approx. Car is garage kept and not winter driven and has seen very
little rain driving.
I have noticed a "rust dust" accumulating where the spokes meet the
spline hubs and it seems to wipe off(its not brake dust). This is the last
thing I expected out of a new set of wires wheels. I realize they need more
TLC as far as keeping them tuned and tweaked, but is this something that an
new set of wheels should be doing this early in their life? They look like
they have a clear coat for protection, but maybe not down in the crevices.
Silicone sealant was applied to keep grease from spewing.
Please don't tell me I have to get out the cotton swabs and wax around
the base of every friggin wire. I was willing to put up with the "ugly
gray" color that this company chooses to use but NOT this labor intensive
project. Should I exercise my three year warrantee?
Any solid wheels for sale out there?
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
------------------------------
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 04:04:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re:
I have dunlops made in India as well (72 spoke
chrome), about 15 years old - by the 5th year I had
them I had almost 80 broken spokes between the four
wheels and chrome was flaking off significantly and
rust was very prevalent. It was so bad I sent the
wheels to BWW finally about 7 years ago and had all
the wheels relaced w/ SS spokes. Now they're fine.
I think the quality depends alot on who is building
the wheel and how much experience he has.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Paul Negus <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com> wrote:
> Mark
>
> I would go back to your supplier. Mine (Dunlop brand
> but made in India) are nearly 20 years old and are
> only just starting to show signs of minor rust in
> places.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> Longbridge BN4
>
> ---------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:34:42 -0500
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
> <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Subject: New Wire Wheel help
>
> Listers,
> I have been running a NEW set of painted
> (gray) Dayton wire wheels
> from Brit. Wire Wheel for approx. 2 years. I have
> clocked a whole 1000
> miles approx. Car is garage kept and not winter
> driven and has seen very
> little rain driving.
> I have noticed a "rust dust" accumulating where
> the spokes meet the
> spline hubs and it seems to wipe off(its not brake
> dust). This is the last
> thing I expected out of a new set of wires wheels.
> I realize they need more
> TLC as far as keeping them tuned and tweaked, but
> is this something that an
> new set of wheels should be doing this early in
> their life? They look like
> they have a clear coat for protection, but maybe not
> down in the crevices.
> Silicone sealant was applied to keep grease from
> spewing.
> Please don't tell me I have to get out the
> cotton swabs and wax around
> the base of every friggin wire. I was willing to
> put up with the "ugly
> gray" color that this company chooses to use but NOT
> this labor intensive
> project. Should I exercise my three year warrantee?
> Any solid wheels for sale out there?
>
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 04:11:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Gasoline
It probably has to do with the fact that your head and
block haven't been surfaced all that much. In
addition, if your mechanic put in Low compression
pistons, you'll get this result.
In retrospect, I wish I put in low compression pistons
in my Healey 13 years ago when I rebuilt the BJ8's
motor, but they weren't available then in 40 over
size. I still have to use premium with an octane
boost to keep it from running on.
Cheers,
Alan
--- Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> From the responses on The List, it would appear that
> I am the only Healey
> driver that does not use high octane premium
> gasoline in his car. My engine
> was overhauled in November of 1991, approximately
> 40,000 miles ago. I have
> always used regular (87 octane) gasoline. My engine
> does not knock. I have
> not noticed any lack of performance (69 mph in the
> quarter mile speed run at
> Tahoe, just about on the average of all BJ8s, stock
> and non-stock). I am of
> the school that says don't waste money on something
> that your car does not
> need. I buy my fuel on the basis of lowest cost.
> There have been no
> negative impacts to the best of my knowledge.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Gasoline
>
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I
> am unsure as to how to
> > access the archives which I hear mentioned) is
> fuel. I would think that
> was a
> > big problem, or else it has been solved and
> everyone knows the answer(s).
> Of
> > course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily
> (into the late 1970s)
> > leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on
> "Flying A"
> > (Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's
> 101 was OK, but not quite
> as
> > good.
> >
> > Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can
> find, but:
> > (1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can
> still be found, desirable?
> > Mandatory?
> > (2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
> > (3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make
> everything OK?
> > (4) Any other helpful suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks to all in advance.
> >
> > Dick Hosmer
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 12:25:02 +0100
Subject: RE:
Mine are painted and I believe that there were subsequent changes of ownership
of Dunlop's India operation. I would still go back though with a three year
warranty if rust marks came after two years!
As you say, stainless will prevent such problems but I don't know if they are
as strong as mild steel spokes - may be an issue for the 48 spoke wheels. Can
any listers comment?
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: 16 August 2002 12:05
To: Paul Negus; Healey List (E-mail)
Subject: Re:
Paul -
I have dunlops made in India as well (72 spoke
chrome), about 15 years old - by the 5th year I had
them I had almost 80 broken spokes between the four
wheels and chrome was flaking off significantly and
rust was very prevalent. It was so bad I sent the
wheels to BWW finally about 7 years ago and had all
the wheels relaced w/ SS spokes. Now they're fine.
I think the quality depends alot on who is building
the wheel and how much experience he has.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Paul Negus <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com> wrote:
> Mark
>
> I would go back to your supplier. Mine (Dunlop brand
> but made in India) are nearly 20 years old and are
> only just starting to show signs of minor rust in
> places.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> Longbridge BN4
>
> ---------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:34:42 -0500
> From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
> <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
> Subject: New Wire Wheel help
>
> Listers,
> I have been running a NEW set of painted
> (gray) Dayton wire wheels
> from Brit. Wire Wheel for approx. 2 years. I have
> clocked a whole 1000
> miles approx. Car is garage kept and not winter
> driven and has seen very
> little rain driving.
> I have noticed a "rust dust" accumulating where
> the spokes meet the
> spline hubs and it seems to wipe off(its not brake
> dust). This is the last
> thing I expected out of a new set of wires wheels.
> I realize they need more
> TLC as far as keeping them tuned and tweaked, but
> is this something that an
> new set of wheels should be doing this early in
> their life? They look like
> they have a clear coat for protection, but maybe not
> down in the crevices.
> Silicone sealant was applied to keep grease from
> spewing.
> Please don't tell me I have to get out the
> cotton swabs and wax around
> the base of every friggin wire. I was willing to
> put up with the "ugly
> gray" color that this company chooses to use but NOT
> this labor intensive
> project. Should I exercise my three year warrantee?
> Any solid wheels for sale out there?
>
>
> Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:51:19 -0400
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
I had Hendrix prepare my wheels and tires prior to the UK tour
2000. Everything worked perfectly. A year later I put new Dunlop's and 72
chrome wires on my 100. Running great. Please give Allen Hendrix and
Jerry Anderson my best.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 09:48 PM 8/15/2002, you wrote:
>I think the verdict is in. It's gonna be Healey Blue over Old English
>Ivory. And, everything will be painted blue that's supposed to be blue,
>since I'm stripping the car down to a rolling chassis and painting it inside
>& out. I've also decided to keep the 2 port heads for now, & maybe make a
>change down the road, once my bank account has had time
>to recover! Thanks to everyone who gave me their 2 cents worth, it's very
>much appreciated. I think I got at least a bucks worth.
>Now, to find a decent restoration facility somewhere in or near North
>Carolina. Anyone have any good recommendations? I'm visiting Hendrix Wire
>Wheel next weekend to check out their work. Has anyone had experience with
>them?
>
>Mick Vander Ploeg
>'57 BN4
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John and Felicia Cope" <naku@wayxcable.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 7:04 PM
>Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
>
>
> > Any "restoration" in which there is a color change should, if one is
>really
> > interested in the financial value of the result, be such that the original
> > color is not discernable because there is none of it left. Any time any
>car
> > is repainted a different color without a complete stripping of the
>original
> > color one is faced with the "Earl Scheib Syndrome". That is the paint job
> > seems inferior simply because of the fact that the original color is
> > apparant in so many areas. Such a color change reduces the desireability
>of
> > a '92 Honda just as much as a Healey.
> >
> > When "properly" done, there isn't even a concours deduction for using a
> > factory original color that wasn't originally on your car, but was
>available
> > for your model year. The deduction for a factory standard Healey color
>that
> > wasn't available for your model is modest.
> >
> > I would dare say that neither would have a noticeable effect on the value
>of
> > the car restored to any level of quality other than concours (including a
> > very expensive restoration to "popular" standard.) "Earl Scheib" jobs
> > excluded.
> >
> > By the way, as best I can tell the most expensive cars at auctions like
> > Barret-Jackson aren't councours. In fact, some of them are clearly
> > "incorrect" colors.
> >
> > another 2 cents worth.
> > John
> > 62BT7
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From ahy3000 at attbi.com
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 13:06:00 +0000
Subject: Double take
So I followed the car for a while and finally gave up
and went home. I was jsut telling my wife about the
healey sighting when the car in question sails by my
driveway. I ran out to the street and flagged him
down. After dismissing the fact that I might be a
lunatic, he stopped and pulled into my driveway. When
he spotted my healey he understood (that I was a
lunatic?).
So now I understand why you all love to get together.
We spent the next hour looking at engines, comparing
travel stories, and swapping phone numbers. So, if you
are near Chelmsford Massachusetts you might just see two
red healeys driving around, a 100-6 and a 3000. Double
take.
BW
--
Burt Weiner
'63 BJ7
ahy3000@attbi.com
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 08:35:16 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content - Delete Now if Not an Elvis Fan
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From "Udo Putzke" <putzke_u at bilstein.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 07:17:40 -0700
Subject: RE: New Rear Springs (was Droopy rear end)
Udo Putzke
Bilstein leading the race
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Earl Kagna
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:40 PM
To: John New
Cc: Healey List
Subject: New Rear Springs (was Droopy rear end)
John:
It's been a problem with new rear springs on and off for quite a while,
especially, it seems, for the BJ8.
A friend here in Victoria installed new rear springs in his BJ8 while doing
a complete restoration. They were sourced from M*** about 3 years ago. Not
only did the car sit high, as you describe, but the ride was pogo-stick like
at the rear - very odd, and possibly unsafe in wet weather. The basis for
comparison was my own BJ8, still on it's original springs.
My friend eventually refurbished the car's original springs, which were in
good shape, and re-installed them - problem solved.
The point I make is that even if you have the springs re-arched so that the
ride height is correct, the car is not going to ride right - it'l be stiff
and jittery while the front will seem to be too soft.
If you are still lucky enough to have the car's original rear springs, and
they're useable, that may be the best way to go. Other than that, I would
investigate what is available currently from the suppliers, given the
problem.
Maybe some input from a couple of listers in the business would help -
Michael Salter, David Nock, are you guys out there? Or maybe talk to AH
Spares in the UK and see what they've managed to do about rear springs.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: Droopy rear end
Listers,
I have the exact opposite problem: my rear springs have too much of an
arch, and the car (BJ8) sits much higher than it is supposed to. A Phase
II BJ8, which normally sits higher, just looks silly riding even higher
than that. The car has recently come out of a very long restoration
process, and the restorer told me the springs would settle. Well, it's
been almost a year since I got the car back, and the rear end is still
at the same position it was when I picked up the car.
When I asked him about it, the restorer finally admitted that the car
had been on those springs since mid-'94. I think they've done all the
settling they're going to do! So, off it is to the spring shop to have
them re-arched.
Any tips on how to tell the spring shop just exactly how much arch to
take out? Is it as simple as saying "Lower the car x inches", or is
there more to it than that?
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-08-14 at 16:30, Phil Leslie wrote:
> This may sound like a personal problem but it is actually my BJ8's left
rear
> that droops. The left rear appears to be about 1" to 1 1/2" lower than the
> right. A friend in the club says that it's probably a weak spring. Does
this
> sound right? If so, how difficult is the fix?
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From "Rich VanBuskirk" <rwvanbuskirk at ucdavis.edu>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 09:33:03 -0700
Subject: High vs. low compression pistons
Thanks,
Rich
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 15:11:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Wouldn't start when hot
I am not sure that we have to go into any theory at all. When I was "a
lad" it was always said that one should not leave the ignition switched
on with a dead engine because one would burn the coil out. Obviously
this depended where the engine had stopped and whether the points were
open or not. This was in the era of oil filled coils such as fitted to
the early 100s. Somewhere around 1955 coils were introduced that would
normally survive being left "on" even though they did get rather hot.
The improvement I believe was due to better insulation material.
My guess is that all we have here is a wrong coil fitted and likely to
be one that should have a ballast resistor.
All the best
>In message <000d01c244d1$a1480320$7ba53bd0@cable.rcn.com>, Andy Phillips
><andyp@cylogix.com> writes
>>I have been having trouble starting my '67 BJ8 when hot. I found that
>>the metal part of the rotor arm was loose so I replaced it (even though
>>the bad rotor arm was new too). This didn't fix my starting problem.
>>Once the car did start it drove perfectly. I had recently fitted a new
>>standard coil (the one in the M*** catalogue), for cosmetic reasons. I
>>put my old coil back on and this fixed the starting problem. I did
>>notice that the new coil had got very hot to the touch.
>>
>>I tried searching the archives but all I came up with was a mention
>>that if you fit a coil meant for a ballast system and you don't have a
>>ballast system then it will become very hot ... could this be the case?
>>The new coil was 2/3rds smaller than my old coil (dated 1976) and the
>>box listed that it fit BMW and Landrover (didn't specify what models).
>>
>>Andy
>>'67 BJ8
>
>A theoretical question here, that has just occurred to me when reading
>this post, and that may have practical implications..
>
>Ignoring the inductive effect, current is flowing through the coil
>primary when the points are closed. For points that are set to a dwell
>of 35 degrees, the current will be flowing for 35/60 of the time
>(6-cyl). Coil temperature will therefore be very dependent on dwell
>angle. Leaning this down to the lower end of acceptable dwell could
>lower the coil temperature.
>
>As I say, this ignores the effect of inductance, which may be the
>overriding factor at high revs / high temperature.
>
>Any comments from the theorists out there?
--
John Harper
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 18:30:28 +0100
Subject: Re: Wouldn't start when hot
John
I would have guessed that you would contribute to this one!
Yes, it was/is always a no-no to leave the ignition on with the engine
not turning, in case the points were closed. But we have a different
situation in a turning engine:
1) the resistive current averages to a function of the mark/space ratio
on the contacts (dwell)
2) the inductive effect which will tend (I think!) to reduce the average
current that would apply to a resistive load.
But, whether the function is linear or not, I think it's fair to say
that:
more dwell = more current = more heat = hotter coil!
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:02:54 -0600
Subject: Air filters 100-4
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From "Walter Conklin" <wjc3 at citlink.net>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 17:24:55 -0400
Subject: Encounter Info request
I'm requesting general information about East Coast Encounter in Princeton,
NJ.
Tanks,
John
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 14:42:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: re. New Wire Wheel help
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:34:42 -0500
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
Subject: New Wire Wheel help
Listers,
I have been running a NEW set of painted (gray)
Dayton wire wheels from Brit. Wire Wheel for approx. 2
years. I have clocked a whole 1000 miles approx.
Car is garage kept and not winter driven and has seen
verylittle rain driving. I have noticed a "rust dust"
accumulating where the spokes meet the spline hubs and
it seems to wipe off(its not brake dust). This is the
last thing I expected out of a new set of wires
wheels.....
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
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From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 17:50:15 -0400
Subject: Re: To be original or not be original
I had Hendrix Wire Wheels install a set of 72 spokes about 18 months ago.
After 7,000 mile they
are still running true. Alan and Jerry are good people, and I'm sure you
will enjoy their quality of
professionalism. Not only will they balance and true your wheels, they
will balance your brake drums.
Alex
BJ8 34180
Linden NC
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 18:34:49 -0500
Subject: Whealeying & Dealing
I have a couple of items to sell that some of you might be interested in
acquiring for your British car hobby or related business. For those of you who
appreciate a good deal from time to time, please read on......
One item is a very nice XTN Series, Model XV2100 Motorola 2-way radio, and the
other is a digital, portable, PosiTector 6000-2 Series film coating thickness
gage. The thickness coating gage would be very useful for when checking the
paint thickness on that classic Healey you've been looking to buy, and the
2-way radio would come in handy for communicating while toolin' around in your
British car during rally's or road trips with others. If you're interested,
inquire within or take a look at the web site listed below for more
information.
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/for_sale.html
This is on a first come first serve basis......
May all your spokes be true to you,
Scott Helms
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 19:01:24 -0500
Subject: 2003 Events Listings Needed
It's me again. I am beginning to work on year 2003 Austin-Healey and other
British car events listings that may be available for early posting on the
AHCUSA activities listings, as well as the British Car Week events listings.
If any of you have any early listings for me to get started on, it would be
greatly appreciated. For best results, please send your listings to the e-mail
address I've provided below.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
BritishCarEvents@arczip.com
http://www.healey.org/events.shtml
http://users.arczip.com/zntech/events.html
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 20:09:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Encounter Info request
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Conklin" <wjc3@citlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 5:24 PM
Subject: Encounter Info request
> Hi,
>
> I'm requesting general information about East Coast Encounter in
Princeton,
> NJ.
>
> Tanks,
> John
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 19:16:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Wouldn't Start When Hot....
I haven't read all the replies yet, so this might be redundant. I had the
same problem with my MGA. The carbs were either too lean or too rich. I
can't remember right off hand, but once I corrected the problem, the car
started all the time, whether too hot or too cold. I believe they (the carbs)
might have been too rich, once the engine was hot, it only made the matter
worse.
Scott Helms
In message <000d01c244d1$a1480320$7ba53bd0@cable.rcn.com>, Andy Phillips
<andyp@cylogix.com> writes
>I have been having trouble starting my '67 BJ8 when hot. I found that
>the metal part of the rotor arm was loose so I replaced it (even though
>the bad rotor arm was new too). This didn't fix my starting problem.
>Once the car did start it drove perfectly. I had recently fitted a new
>standard coil (the one in the M*** catalogue), for cosmetic reasons. I
>put my old coil back on and this fixed the starting problem. I did
>notice that the new coil had got very hot to the touch.
>
>I tried searching the archives but all I came up with was a mention
>that if you fit a coil meant for a ballast system and you don't have a
>ballast system then it will become very hot ... could this be the case?
>The new coil was 2/3rds smaller than my old coil (dated 1976) and the
>box listed that it fit BMW and Landrover (didn't specify what models).
>
>Andy
>'67 BJ8
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from using the small coil.
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 21:15:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Wouldn't start when hot
Rick Ollah
54 BN1
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>>
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 19:31:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: new seat rails?
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From "rod shepherd" <rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 13:05:20 +1000
Subject: Re: Wouldn't start when hot
In message <003c01c2457c$2292c320$4af78ec6@rodshepherd>, rod shepherd
<rodshepherd@optusnet.com.au> writes
>Hi Listers,
>
>FWIW, Years ago 1955/1970, when I owned and drove a BN1, MGTC,
>numerous Austins and Morris cars a symptom we used to deal with was failure
>to start when hot. The fix in those days was to remove the contact points,
clean
>and refinish the contact area or replace the contact set - always seemed to
fix
>the problem.
>
>Rod Shepherd,
>BN4(modified.)
>Brisbane. Australia.
Rod,
Did you mean to send this to the List? It appears to be address just to
me.
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 06:10:37 -0400
Subject: Re: new seat rails?
> Anyone ever see or purchase new seat rails that are
> commonly available? The reason I ask is that my
> rebuilding effort has been very frustrating and time
> consuming. <snip>
I've used the new reproduction rail sets a couple of times on restoration
projects, and unless the old ones are really in good condition, I would not
hesitate to use the new ones for all the reasons you described.
I'm a nut for originality, and the only nit I can pick with them is that if
anything, they are too nicely plated. At a glance they are almost as bright
as chrome.
This time I give the repro boys full marks for a job well done.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Walter Conklin" <wjc3 at citlink.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 08:52:44 -0400
Subject: : Encounter Info request / Thank you
Bye
john
healeys@autox.team.net
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 13:31:44 EDT
Subject: over-heating
Thanks
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 14:43:06 EDT
Subject: Re: over-heating
Good luck
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 17:05:06 -0500
Subject: Original Shroud Finish
The backsides of my front and rear shrouds ('57 Longbridge BN4) appear to have
never been painted. Mostly bare aluminum and just a little bit of over spray
and under coating splattered here and there. Does anyone happen to know how
they originally came from the factory?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 18:50:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: Original Shroud Finish
> Hello,
>
> The backsides of my front and rear shrouds ('57 Longbridge BN4) appear to
have
> never been painted. Mostly bare aluminum and just a little bit of over
spray
> and under coating splattered here and there. Does anyone happen to know
how
> they originally came from the factory?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 19:54:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Stainless steel fasteners
<< Is anyone aware of a company that sells these
fasteners in stainless steel, preferably as a set? >>
Mick, You will find some SST things for Healeys at <A
HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
Let me know if I can help with other fastners.
Thanks
Don
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2002 22:57:39 -0500
Subject: Encounter 2002, Princeton, NJ
I saw some of the most beautiful Healeys I have ever seen and met some
of the nicest people I have ever met. I even fell in love.She is a red
and white Warwick War Wagon; a BJ8 endurance Rally car.
The Princeton event was so well organized it was hard to believe that it
was a car event.
Again a big thanks to you, we made gold.
Bob Denton
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 00:46:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Encounter 2002, Princeton, NJ x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
A hearty congratulations, Bob on achieving the gold level award!
It sounds like you really understand what it's all about; lots of work,
dedication, money, and keen unwavering enthusiasm got you (and the car) what
you deserve.
Now, you've got your gold, go turn the key, hit the starter button, and
enjoy the car to the fullest, driving her as often and a sfar as you can.
Rich Chrysler
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 01:05:03 +1000
Subject: Re: Gasoline
The Autocar roadtest (Autocar 12 June 1964) was 85mph, 17.2 secs for a stock
BJ8, running super premium grade 101 fuel.
So - can we draw the conclusion that Autocar got 19% better performance by
using fuel with 14% more octane..... <wink>
I personally believe that fuel is important, and I buy the best fuel I can &
tune accordingly. But then again - everyone is entitled to their own
opinion, and to do whatever they want with their own cars, their own money,
and their own Autocar road test results.
Best
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Gasoline
> From the responses on The List, it would appear that I am the only Healey
> driver that does not use high octane premium gasoline in his car. My
engine
> was overhauled in November of 1991, approximately 40,000 miles ago. I
have
> always used regular (87 octane) gasoline. My engine does not knock. I
have
> not noticed any lack of performance (69 mph in the quarter mile speed run
at
> Tahoe, just about on the average of all BJ8s, stock and non-stock). I am
of
> the school that says don't waste money on something that your car does not
> need. I buy my fuel on the basis of lowest cost. There have been no
> negative impacts to the best of my knowledge.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Gasoline
>
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I am unsure as to how to
> > access the archives which I hear mentioned) is fuel. I would think that
> was a
> > big problem, or else it has been solved and everyone knows the
answer(s).
> Of
> > course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily (into the late 1970s)
> > leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on "Flying A"
> > (Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's 101 was OK, but not
quite
> as
> > good.
> >
> > Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can find, but:
> > (1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can still be found,
desirable?
> > Mandatory?
> > (2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
> > (3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make everything OK?
> > (4) Any other helpful suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks to all in advance.
> >
> > Dick Hosmer
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 13:04:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Gasoline
I would ass/u/me that the Autocar test was done at sea level and the Tahoe
one was at 7,000 feet. Therefore the octane had only a minor effect and the
altitude was the contributing factor...35% loss of horsepower and all that.
But sometimes I let my imagination run away from reality <grin>
cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
<< The Autocar roadtest (Autocar 12 June 1964) was 85mph, 17.2 secs for a
stock
BJ8, running super premium grade 101 fuel.
So - can we draw the conclusion that Autocar got 19% better performance by
using fuel with 14% more octane..... <wink>
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 13:25:58 EDT
Subject: British car magazines for sale
British Car & Bike
1986 Issues #3 & #4 (First year)
87 all 6 issues
88 2 of Car & Bike, then became just British Car for remaining 4 issues.
89, 90, 91 all six issues
92 4 issues (Feb, April, June, Dec)
93, 94, 95 all six issues
97 3 issues (Dec/Jan, Feb/March, Aug/Sept)
Classic & Sportscar (British magazine)
84 9 issues (April to Dec)
85 4 issues (Jan, Feb, March, May)
89 12 issues
90 11 issues (Jan - Nov)
91 12 issues
Thoroughbred & Classic Cars (British magazine)
88 2 issues (Feb, April)
89 3 issues (Feb, June, Dec)
90 3 issues (Jan, Feb, June)
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 10:21:33 -0700
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITISH 2002
Remember there will be NO preregistration - show
up early and prepare to be processed.
**************************************************
THE PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET
SATURDAY TOUR - SUNDAY SHOW,
September 7th & 8th, 2002
Be part of the biggest all British automotive lawn event in California.
Over 500 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected
to fill the field at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, for the 23rd Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
--------------------------------------------------
SATURDAY - September 7th
The Official British Car Meet Tour To The Sea starts at El Camino Park in
Palo Alto - The same place as the Sunday Show. This is a no cost option for
people who like to drive their cars rather than just show them. We will be
sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:00AM. Don't be late! The event will
end at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and
telling tall tales in the car park into the afternoon.
--------------------------------------------------
SUNDAY - September 8th
Join us for the Best All British Car Show In The West! Don't have a show
car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods &
works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great
British food, jazz, parts, literature, toys and gifts and more fun than
you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards in six classes. Join
your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
The American MGB Association will join us with their National West Coast
Convention. We are expecting over 100 MGBs and Spridgets to line the rows
in front of the stage. There will be special additional AMGBA awards in
classes that will be open to all MGB/Spridget owners, Members, or not.
Another special area will be provided for members of the Arcane Auto
Society who will display their automotive oddities from around the globe.
Cars will be placed on the field by marque, starting at 9:00AM, and the fun
goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. There is
no preregistration. All participants will receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
-------------------------------------------------
DIRECTIONS
El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of University
Avenue, opposite Stanford Center, From 101 take University Ave west, go
under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino Real.
>From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El Camino,
stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the overpass,
then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. Trailer parking is
available on-site at the park.
DO NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE SHOPPING CENTER PARKING LOT PLEASE!
For information call: 310-392-6605 or email: "Britmeet 2002"
<rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
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From Bob.H.Walker at Rogers-corp.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 12:11:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
I have just found out the same thing this week, the undersides of the
shrouds are also only oversprayed, in my case a rainbow of white, red,
white and yellow from various poor repaints.
The shrouds on my car came mostly stripped (it is an incomplete car, looks
like it was either covered up in a junk yard for a long time, or someone
started a restore, lost lots of stuff, and gave us).
Question to the group is, what techniques are good to finish stripping,
knock out the dents, and straighten these out. I assume careful
hammer/dolly work is ok (hammer on dolly seems like a bad idea on soft
aluminum), but are gathering hammers ok? Is it possible to shrink aluminum
with a torch like steel? Is removal of the old finish best done with
chemical stripping, or will that hurt the aluminum. These body parts are
so delicate.
Thank you in advance,
Bob Walker
Rogers - Advanced Circuit Materials Division - Flexible Products
e-mail: bob.h.walker@rogers-corp.com
Tel: 480-917-5233
FAX: 480-917-5256
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 21:01:45 +0100
Subject: Boot (trunk) badge: "Austin Healey Motor Works"
An enquiry has come my way which I cannot answer from my small Healey
library.
I'm trying to find the usage and authenticity of this boot (trunk)
badge, reading "Austin Healey Motor Works"
Photo here: http://www.proaxis.demon.co.uk/healey/
Any help appreciated
--
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 13:45:22 -0700
Subject: fender and wheel arch
TIA,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 16:49:18 EDT
Subject: AHCA Bylaws and Charter
Best--Michael Oritt
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From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 14:43:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Encounter 2002, Princeton, NJ x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
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From "mgnut" <mgnut at charter.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 17:46:23 -0400
Subject: 8th Annual British Car Festival
Guest of Honor...John Twist of University Motors LTD, Grand Rapids, MI. is the
leading authority on MG's, British Cars and Technical Writer and Advisor to MG
Magazine, American MGB Association, and many other national and international
British Car Publications.
We have scheduled one main event for Saturday, September 7th. A Funkhana will
be held at the Ardie Dillen Industrial Park in Tipton starting at 12:30 pm.
You must pre-register for the event. You also won't want to miss the Saturday
night pig roast dinner and desserts at our President's home.
On Sunday, September 8th it's off to Delgrosso's Amusement Park. Registration
will begin at 10 am. Sunday is simply a day of showing your car and enjoying
the friendship of other British Car enthusiasts. Good food, rides, mini-golf,
go-karts and prizes..and NO Judging!! All British Cars are welcome, any
condition. John Twist will be present all weekend.
Pre-registration prices (good till August 30th) are as follows:
Entire Weekend @ $22.50 per person includes:
Friday 9/6: Hospitality suite at the Day's Inn (BYOB)
Saturday 9/7: Funkhana, Pig Roast & Desserts Bonfire party.
Sunday 9/8: Car show, Goodie Bag, Chicken Dinner, DelGrosso Sauces gift pack,
All Day Ride pass, Miniature Golf pass, and prizes.
Sunday only @ $15.00 per person includes:
Car show, Goodie Bag, Chicken Dinner, DelGrosso Sauces gift pack, All Day Ride
pass, Miniature Golf pass, and prizes.
Please email us at mgnut@charter.net and will be send you our brochure or
answer any questions that you may have.
Thanks
Jim & Lori Pastore
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 15:40:43 -0700
Subject: Re: fender and wheel arch
Jumping the gun,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 16:54:09 -0700
Subject: keeping trafficator in its place
Ronald O. Davies
67 BJ8 37444
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 19:45:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
The aluminum is very soft so gently use a body hammer/dolly to hammer out
any dents. Sine the aluminum is so soft I do not think it wise to try and
shrink aluminum with a torch.
My experience with only one Austin Healey. Others I am sure have worked on
many more.
Alan (Aint-it-fun) HBJ8L/34297
> I have just found out the same thing this week, the undersides of the
> shrouds are also only oversprayed, in my case a rainbow of white, red,
> white and yellow from various poor repaints.
>
> The shrouds on my car came mostly stripped (it is an incomplete car, looks
> like it was either covered up in a junk yard for a long time, or someone
> started a restore, lost lots of stuff, and gave us).
>
> Question to the group is, what techniques are good to finish stripping,
> knock out the dents, and straighten these out. I assume careful
> hammer/dolly work is ok (hammer on dolly seems like a bad idea on soft
> aluminum), but are gathering hammers ok? Is it possible to shrink
aluminum
> with a torch like steel? Is removal of the old finish best done with
> chemical stripping, or will that hurt the aluminum. These body parts are
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 19:53:20 -0500
Subject: Re: keeping trafficator in its place
Alan (Aint-it-fun) HBJ8L/34297
> I just reviewed the archives and didn't see what I was looking for, so
here
> goes.
> After finally unlocking the lock nut on the adjustable wheel on my 67 BJ8,
I
> was able to push the wheel in another inch or so. Naturally I hadn't the
> sense to leave well enough alone and decided to see how far towards me the
> wheel would come. That was fine until I pushed the wheel forward again to
> its stop. That left the trafficator sticking out several inches. I
pushed
> it back in but it tends to work its way out half an inch or so when I
drive.
> So how do you get it to stay pushed in?
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 20:43:10 -0400
Subject: Lubricating the water pump
My old waterpump was a rebuilt unit that had permanently sealed bearings, so
no screw to remove for lubricating the pump. The spare pump I just installed
does have the screw. The workshop manual has a diagram shoing the screw, but
doesn't mention how to lubricate the bearings once the screw is removed. The
screw hole is thoughtfully located just in-line with the rear edge of the
pulley, so it isn't possible to screw in an angled zerk. I could probably get
a straight zerk in there with some difficulty, but then I couldn't get the
coupling of the grease gun on it anyway.
What is the proper technique for lubricating this type of water pump, and at
what interval?
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:29:45 -0400
Subject: RE: new seat rails?
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of joe mulqueen
Sent: 16-Aug-02 10:31 PM
To: healey list
Subject: new seat rails?
Anyone ever see or purchase new seat rails that are
commonly available? The reason I ask is that my
rebuilding effort has been very frustrating and time
consuming. Here's the detail:
Spent a frustrating hour+ taking 'em apart (try it
sometime).
Degrease orig caked on crud.
Conclude that wire wheeling will not sufficiently
clean 'em up for later plating.
Knock out damaged/suspect studs (not always a simple
task).
Get new bolts and grind tops so they'll look halfway
correct.
Locate elsewhere new steel balls ($8 worth).
Take rails and bolts to welder and provide
instructions.
Find out (after waiting one week) that they screwed up
a simple task by not ensuring the bolts were square to
the rails and not even wire wheeling the surfaces
clean prior to welding!. When I tried to "straighten"
one of the crooked bolts, the weld broke. I'm now
suspicious of all the welds. I spent more time with
that welder than they spent with my parts and this was
a large shop!
So all this and I still need to get the rails grit
blasted and then plated.
I'll spend 200.00 for new rails to get out of this two
week nightmare!
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
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From "Larry Swift" <mgtd51 at adelphia.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 22:59:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
Thanks,
Larry Swift
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 20:32:27 -0700
Subject: trafficator solution
Ronald Davies
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 00:00:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Lubricating the water pump
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 8:43 PM
Subject: Lubricating the water pump
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> What is the proper technique for lubricating this type of water pump, and
at
> what interval?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 21:50:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Gasoline
- Professional VS amateur driver.
- Altitude and condition of Autocar test track.
- Age, mileage, and condition of vehicle.
- Accuracy of the distance and the speed gun and the competence of the gun
operator (please do not take that as any kind of negative comment about the
Tahoe gun or its operator).
- Actual octane by today's standards of the 101 fuel used in 1964.
I'm sure your <wink> implied that you knew all that.
In case you don't have the results, of the 40 Big Healeys that ran the speed
runs at Tahoe, only one did 85 mph and that was a 100-6 (Non-stock). I
don't know what modification(s) made it non-stock. Next best time was 84
mph by a woman in the same class (hmm! Could it have been the same car ??).
The next fastest was 79 mph. The average for the 40 Big Healeys was 69.48
mph. I'm sure that many of these cars were running on premium fuel.
I'm perfectly happy to see that my Healey is no slouch when compared to 39
other cars running under the same conditions.
To lighten things up a bit, let me note that my car gets great mileage,
doesn't exceed any speed limits, and can be a zero-emissions vehicle while
sitting still and being admired at a car show (California State Fair, August
22; Palo Alto All British, Sep 8; Autumn Classic, San Juan Bautista, Oct
19-20).
P.S. I just thought of a new subject for future consideration. Is there a
chance that the gasoline I buy for $1.47 at the low cost station is the same
gasoline that costs $1.65 or more at the expensive gas station? Is it
possible that this is excess production at the refinery that is sold to any
station?
:-) Healey On! :-)
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: Gasoline
> > 69 mph in the quarter mile speed run at
> > Tahoe, just about on the average of all BJ8s, stock and non-stock
> > ....... always used regular (87 octane) gasoline
>
> The Autocar roadtest (Autocar 12 June 1964) was 85mph, 17.2 secs for a
stock
> BJ8, running super premium grade 101 fuel.
>
> So - can we draw the conclusion that Autocar got 19% better performance by
> using fuel with 14% more octane..... <wink>
>
> I personally believe that fuel is important, and I buy the best fuel I can
&
> tune accordingly. But then again - everyone is entitled to their own
> opinion, and to do whatever they want with their own cars, their own
money,
> and their own Autocar road test results.
>
> Best
>
> Chris
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 16, 2002 4:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Gasoline
>
>
> > From the responses on The List, it would appear that I am the only
Healey
> > driver that does not use high octane premium gasoline in his car. My
> engine
> > was overhauled in November of 1991, approximately 40,000 miles ago. I
> have
> > always used regular (87 octane) gasoline. My engine does not knock. I
> have
> > not noticed any lack of performance (69 mph in the quarter mile speed
run
> at
> > Tahoe, just about on the average of all BJ8s, stock and non-stock). I
am
> of
> > the school that says don't waste money on something that your car does
not
> > need. I buy my fuel on the basis of lowest cost. There have been no
> > negative impacts to the best of my knowledge.
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Vacaville, CA, USA
> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <RAHosmer@aol.com>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 6:21 AM
> > Subject: Re: Gasoline
> >
> >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > One thing I have yet to see discussed (although I am unsure as to how
to
> > > access the archives which I hear mentioned) is fuel. I would think
that
> > was a
> > > big problem, or else it has been solved and everyone knows the
> answer(s).
> > Of
> > > course, when I was driving my 62BT7 tricarb daily (into the late
1970s)
> > > leaded gas was standard. Mine always ran best on "Flying A"
> > > (Tidewater/Associated) super premium, Chevron's 101 was OK, but not
> quite
> > as
> > > good.
> > >
> > > Obviously, one buys the highest octane they can find, but:
> > > (1) Is a lead substitute additive, if one can still be found,
> desirable?
> > > Mandatory?
> > > (2) Dare one run original exhaust valves?
> > > (3) Or, will simply retarding the timing make everything OK?
> > > (4) Any other helpful suggestions?
> > >
> > > Thanks to all in advance.
> > >
> > > Dick Hosmer
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 04:50:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 00:49:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
You can bump aluminum to remove damage. Get some hard wood blocks approximately
2" X 4" and sand all 6 sides to a different contour. You will find a shape you
need as you work down the panels.
Yes you can shrink aluminum the same as steel. You just don't need as much heat.
Go to this site and order the video tape on gas welding aluminum. You will find
it enlightening.http://www.fournierenterprises.com/
I hope some of this helps. there's may have suggestions you'll find more useful.
Good luck
Rick Ollah
54 BN1
Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com wrote:
> Dear Scott and all,,
>
> I have just found out the same thing this week, the undersides of the
> shrouds are also only oversprayed, in my case a rainbow of white, red,
> white and yellow from various poor repaints.
>
> The shrouds on my car came mostly stripped (it is an incomplete car, looks
> like it was either covered up in a junk yard for a long time, or someone
> started a restore, lost lots of stuff, and gave us).
>
> Question to the group is, what techniques are good to finish stripping,
> knock out the dents, and straighten these out. I assume careful
> hammer/dolly work is ok (hammer on dolly seems like a bad idea on soft
> aluminum), but are gathering hammers ok? Is it possible to shrink aluminum
> with a torch like steel? Is removal of the old finish best done with
> chemical stripping, or will that hurt the aluminum. These body parts are
> so delicate.
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Bob Walker
> Rogers - Advanced Circuit Materials Division - Flexible Products
> e-mail: bob.h.walker@rogers-corp.com
> Tel: 480-917-5233
> FAX: 480-917-5256
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 06:15:16 -0400
Subject: Ding King
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 23:21:07 +1000
Subject: Re: Gasoline
<wink>
My (tongue in cheek) point yesterday was really that in the same way Len
expressed his opinion that octane over 87 was a waste of money - I
personally believe that fuel octane is important, and I (personally) buy the
best fuel I can & tune accordingly. Currently that is a choice of 98 octane
Shell Optimax or 98 Octane Mobil 8000 here in Australia.
No arguement with Len - just a different opinion : )
As I said yesterday - "everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and to do
whatever they want with their own cars, their own money, and their own
Autocar road test results."
Enjoy,
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
> Chris,
>
> I would ass/u/me that the Autocar test was done at sea level and the
Tahoe
> one was at 7,000 feet. Therefore the octane had only a minor effect and
the
> altitude was the contributing factor...35% loss of horsepower and all
that.
> But sometimes I let my imagination run away from reality <grin>
>
> cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
> << The Autocar roadtest (Autocar 12 June 1964) was 85mph, 17.2 secs for a
> stock
> BJ8, running super premium grade 101 fuel.
>
> So - can we draw the conclusion that Autocar got 19% better performance
by
> using fuel with 14% more octane..... <wink>
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From HealeyinNH at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:16:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
Dave
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From Olivier_M_Grandjean/Corporate/ThoughtWorks/US at ThoughtWorks.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:28:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Ding King
Olivier
No Healey yet
"Warren Dietz"
<flyhihealey@hotm To: healeys@autox.team.net
ail.com> cc:
Sent by: Subject: Ding King
owner-healeys@aut
ox.team.net
08/19/02 05:15 AM
Please respond to
"Warren Dietz"
Listers,
Anybody have any info on this seemingly neat tool I,ve seen advertised on
TV
called "Ding King' to repair dents. A uninsured runaway grocery cart caught
a fender on the BJ9. I was able to pull out most of the dent with a big
rubber suction type tool but I can't seem to get a good smooth finale. No
paint damage just dent.
Warren
67 BJ8
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From Bob.H.Walker at Rogers-corp.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 08:36:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
Bob Walker
Rogers - Advanced Circuit Materials Division - Flexible Products
e-mail: bob.h.walker@rogers-corp.com
Tel: 480-917-5233
FAX: 480-917-5256
"Larry Swift"
<mgtd51@adelph To: "Alan Schultz"
<alan@andysnet.net>,
ia.net> <Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com>
cc: "Scott H."
<austrheamgafun@arczip.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>,
08/18/2002 <owner-healeys@autox.team.net>
07:59 PM Subject: Re: Original Shroud
Finish
The shrouds on my 59BT7 were also unpainted on the underside. On another
note, the floor board metal panels in my car are not fully welded along
each
seam. They are tack welded here and there. Was this common when the cars
were built or am I looking at a poor restoration?
Thanks,
Larry Swift
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 08:51:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 100S at Monterey Auction didn't sell at $150,000
Saturday night RM Auctions offered this Healey up to a
crowd of stock market shocked bidders and didn't close
the deal. Many cars went unsold. Bidding started at
$100,000 and quickly went to $150,000 where no further
money was found. We estimated the reserve was no
where in sight as the auctioneer quickly moved the car
off the stage. "No sale.. Take it away" were his
words.
The catalog contained only the following unique
description of this vehicle. All the rest of the
words went on to describe a 100S in general.
"AHS3707 was delivered by the US west coast
distributor and lead an active life in club racing."
http--www.rmauctions.com-img-carpics-MO02_159_1.jpg
There were other four other Healeys auctioned, maybe
someone else can report on these.
Dean (BN7) And we drove there in the Healey from LA.
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 10:57:48 -0500
Subject: RE: Stainless steel fasteners - Great source
-----Original Message-----
From: Drtrite@aol.com [mailto:Drtrite@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2002 6:54 PM
To: MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Stainless steel fasteners
In a message dated 8/12/02 5:02:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
MVANDERPLOEG@nc.rr.com writes:
<< Is anyone aware of a company that sells these
fasteners in stainless steel, preferably as a set? >>
Mick, You will find some SST things for Healeys at <A
HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A>
Let me know if I can help with other fastners.
Thanks
Don
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 11:23:35 -0500
Subject: trafficator solution needed - PART II
-----Original Message-----
From: rdavies [mailto:rdavies@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 10:32 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: trafficator solution
Thanks to all who responded to the grub screw solution to my trafficator
problem.
With the appropriate tiny flathead screw driver I fixed it in place. I'm
cruisin'.
Ronald Davies
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:38:28 -0700
Subject: FW: Monterey
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From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:51:21 -0700
Subject: 67 BJ8 values?
Anyway, my buddy knows very little about Healeys (he's a Porsche nut) so he
wants to explore selling it. He took it to a sleazeball collector/reseller
in So. Calf. and of course the guy wanted to steal it. Knowing that I own a
similar condition '66 BJ8 he asked me for an opinion. Since I'm not selling,
I haven't been following the recent auctions (and they're misleading I
think). Asking prices on the internet are all over the place and it seems
most truly nice cars don't sell on ebay as they never reach the seller's
reserve. I know that our cars have shot up in value but by how much? So is
there anyone out there that can enlighten me on recent BJ8 resale values?
Thanks
Randy "they'll bury me in mine" Harris ('66 BJ8)
BTW - I just spent the most amazing Saturday at the Monterey Historic Auto
Races. I'm still reeling from the excitement of it all.............
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:16:50 EDT
Subject: Re: trafficator solution needed - PART II
> I believe asking the vendor for help would be a waste of my time
Hi Jack-
If the supplier is still in business, I would not hesitate to ask them about
a replacement hub with the grub screw holes in the proper locations.
Marion
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From SigiBKoenigs <SigiBKoenigs at comcast.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 13:41:07 -0400
Subject: Test- delete
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 14:14:57 -0400
Subject: Classic Car Show
This past weekend I entered my Ice Blue '66 BJ8 in a classic and vintage
car show in the Seattle area. The show was part of a larger venue of
music,speakers,kids activities,food booths,etc. The attendance was in
excess of 150,00 for the 2-day event.
A total of about 75 cars were present and placed in various categories such
as vintage and classic,muscle,trucks,hot rod and custom,etc. Most of the
people there were probably not car enthusiasts but walked through the show
because it was part of the venue.
People were given the opportunity to vote for their favorite car in each
of the above mentioned categories. The Healey(mine was the only one) was
the OVERALL winner in the popular choice voting. The show had some very
nice Corvettes and Mercedes from the 50's and 60's,mint Nash Metro's, 30's
vintage Fords, Jag XKE's,etc. The point being,a nice cross section of
automobiles.
By the way, I would classify my BJ8 as a top-tier driver,a solid 10-footer.
My reason for relaying this to the list is not to gloat (OK, maybe a
little...), but to say that we own a very special automobile whose lines
appeal to a great many folks, car people or not!
This has given me a great confirmation of my hobby and has made me very
proud to be a Healey owner.
I think all of us can take pride that our marque stands pretty tall when
compared to the rest.........
Scot
(HBJ8L36081)
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 15:35:09 EDT
Subject: Unusual encounter at Encounter
The owner of the article and I could not come to terms on a purchase, but
I've since found that Florida State University has back-issues in its
archives--hopefully I can get a copy off microfilm. But in any case, I
wonder what the "odds" are on such an occurence--pretty long I'd bet!
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From JSoderling at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 17:13:08 EDT
Subject: Re: trafficator solution needed - PART II
> threaded holes for the grub screws but they appear to be in the wrong
> location...they are behind the trafficator plate which is supposed to be
> held by the grub screws. The grub screws are therefore in mid-air and do
> nothing to retain the trafficator plate. What's the problem?? Any ideas
> on a fix?? Is this a defective hub?? I believe asking the vendor for help
> would be a waste of my time.
> Jack
>
Jack,
For some reason, the adjustable steering hubs supplied with wood steering
wheels for Austin Healeys are not machined correctly. The machined area on
the hub that the new steering wheel sits against is not machined deep enough.
The result is that the black trafficator cover rests against the steering
wheel while the trafficator cancel plate is about 3/16" infront of the
machined hub area where it is supposed to rest. In this postion, the grub
screw end up behind the cancel plate.
This can be corrected by having the area on the hub where the steering wheel
sits against machined 1/8 to 3/16 inch deeper. Or you can do what I did when
I installed my Derrington wheel four months ago. With the cancel ring
oriented correctly (cancel tab at 6:00 o'clock), I marked the three areas on
the cancel ring where the grub screws will make contact, and then very
carfully bent those three spots back about 3/16" using a visegrip pliers so
that the three areas made contact with the seating area in the hub while the
trafficator hub sits about 1/8" beyond the face of the steering wheel (just
enough so it doesn't rub against the wheel when turning the wheel).
Works great for me. You just need to use care when bending the three spots
on the ring so you don't break the ring from the stator tube.
Vrooom vrooom.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 18:10:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Original Shroud Finish
Thanks to everyone who answered my shroud question. It appears that most
were left unfinished, so I'll most likely leave that part alone. Of course
I'll protect the flange areas very well.....
Scott Helms
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 19:21:11 -0400
Subject: Distriutor Opposite rotation
Does anyone out there in Healeyland have a reverse rotation 4 cylinder
Lucas distributor?
I have found that the one that I had for the 100S rally engine I am
building is normal rotation.
They were fitted to Early type Sunbeam Alpines, and Talbots and some
Renault Gordini's and probably some other cars.
Thanks.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 16:50:42 -0700
Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
Ronald Davies
BJ8 37444
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 18:56:50 -0500
Subject: BN1 Seat Back and Foam
Mark
BN1
Nashville
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 19:41:39 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:50 PM
Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Hi!
> I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil filter adapter but only
came
> up with answers on the filter to use.
> Can list members who have installed and used the spin-on adapters give me
> some advice on which to buy and if it is worth it?
> Thanks so much,
>
> Ronald Davies
> BJ8 37444
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 19:03:53 -0700
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
I drive my Healey a lot (4-6,000 miles a year). Anything that makes routine
maintenance easier is a big plus to me, it leaves me more time and energy to
do other upkeep (I also have a Pertronix igition; no changing/adjusting points).
If you get the spin-on adapter, I recommend Wix filters. I used Fram for
awhile (that's what came with the adapter), but the Wix is much better
construction
overall (I've dissected both of them). In addition, the anti-drainback valve
on the
Wix actually works. Usually, I let the oil drain for a couple of hours or
even a
day or two. The Fram would spill its contents if I changed it within a couple
of
hours, but after a day or two it would be empty (having let all the oil drain
back
into the engine). The Wix holds oil indefinitely. This probably saves at
least a
second or two of "dry running" at startup. They cost a couple bucks more,
but well worth it in my opinion. Also, I believe Napa brand filters are
actually
Wix.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Hi, Ron -
> If you don't like spilling oil all over the place when you change the
> throw-away element, having to special-order the filter elements, and then
> dealing with the leaks afterwards, then the spin-on adapter is worth it. It
> was the first mod I did to my BJ8, back about 1984. Moss came out with the
> adapter, and I jumped right on it. The style they are selling now is a bit
> different, I think, with the filter screwing into the adapter at a right
> angle to the block, whereas the one I bought has the filter in the same
> orientation as it was originally, parallel to the block. I wouldn't go back
> to the old style.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> > Hi!
> > I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil filter adapter but only
> came
> > up with answers on the filter to use.
> > Can list members who have installed and used the spin-on adapters give me
> > some advice on which to buy and if it is worth it?
> > Thanks so much,
> >
> > Ronald Davies
> > BJ8 37444
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 19:33:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
I bought that very same moss oil filter adaptor for my
BJ8 in 1985 - you are lucky you didn't run it on your
car for very long. After fiddling with the thing
incessantly to put it on to my Purolator/Tecalemit
Filter head, I realized that the thing didn't work at
all - the holes were set up in a way that the oil
would simply bypass the filter all together - I used
it for a while but finally chucked it and replaced it
with an adaptor I bought from Victoria British which
bolted onto the block. About two years later I guess
Moss figured out that adaptor was no good and switched
to the one that all the suppliers sell these days.
So you can get it from moss, or Victoria, or anyone
else for that matter - they're all basically the same
these days (unless you get the one that has the oil
cooler adaptor on it).
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> Hi, Ron -
> If you don't like spilling oil all over the place
> when you change the
> throw-away element, having to special-order the
> filter elements, and then
> dealing with the leaks afterwards, then the spin-on
> adapter is worth it. It
> was the first mod I did to my BJ8, back about 1984.
> Moss came out with the
> adapter, and I jumped right on it. The style they
> are selling now is a bit
> different, I think, with the filter screwing into
> the adapter at a right
> angle to the block, whereas the one I bought has the
> filter in the same
> orientation as it was originally, parallel to the
> block. I wouldn't go back
> to the old style.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:50 PM
> Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
>
>
> > Hi!
> > I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil
> filter adapter but only
> came
> > up with answers on the filter to use.
> > Can list members who have installed and used the
> spin-on adapters give me
> > some advice on which to buy and if it is worth it?
> > Thanks so much,
> >
> > Ronald Davies
> > BJ8 37444
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 19:49:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: trafficator solution needed - PART II
The motolita hub will actually go farther down the
stalk than the original hub - the trafficator is
actually being restricted by the end of the steering
column rod - i.e. you're being confused because the
trafficator is all the way forward, but the motolita
hub is even a litte more forward, so they don't mate
together.
To get the hub to mate up with the trafficator, you
simply have the loosen the hub and pull it out 1/4 or
1/2 inch until the grub screws contact the trafficator
plate, then tighten the motolita hub in place.
It's simple!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Brashear, Jack, N"
<JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> wrote:
> Hi Listers, I recently added a Moto-Lita steering
> wheel (from a very well known vendor)) on my nearly
> complete BT7-II restoration. I purchased the wheel
> in 1998 but just now installed it. The new hub
> supplied with the wheel has the three threaded holes
> for the grub screws but they appear to be in the
> wrong location...they are behind the trafficator
> plate which is supposed to be held by the grub
> screws. The grub screws are therefore in mid-air
> and do nothing to retain the trafficator plate.
> What's the problem?? Any ideas on a fix?? Is this
> a defective hub?? I believe asking the vendor for
> help would be a waste of my time.
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rdavies [mailto:rdavies@cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 10:32 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: trafficator solution
>
>
> Thanks to all who responded to the grub screw
> solution to my trafficator
> problem.
> With the appropriate tiny flathead screw driver I
> fixed it in place. I'm
> cruisin'.
>
> Ronald Davies
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From mga <mga at napanet.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 21:15:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Trailer space available Ohio to CA
Once again, apologies if this is received in duplicate.
My friend, Dan Grinnell, who used to have a British car repair shop in Santa
Rosa, CA, is driving a large truck with trailer from Ohio westward to
California. He can be reached at 508-369-3359 or e-mailed at
mymokeis@hotmail.com. He can haul cars, car parts, motorcycles, etc.
I continue to recommend him highly- he brought my TR8 from PA to Napa Valley
and my MGA from the Sierras. And a few months back he transported a '66 MGB
for me; not a long distance but had to get it through some mud that was a
foot deep!
Don Scott
'91 Miata BRG
'80 TR8
'73 MGB GT
'62 MGA
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From Nick Jones <NJones at web.de>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 09:30:05 +0200
Subject: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
Nick Jones Munich.Germany
______________________________________________________________________________
WEB.DE MyPage - Ultimatives Kommunikationstool! Ihre Message sofort
online! Domain aenderbar! http://www.das.ist.aber.ne.lustige.sache.ms/
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 02:22:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
Your old spedometer seems like it was reading
correctly. Therefore logic would assume that if you
are driving at 2500 RPMS in 4/OD, you should be doing
60 regardless of what your KPH spedometer says. Hope
that helps...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Nick Jones <NJones@web.de> wrote:
> Having just installed a KMH Speedo in my BN7..I am
> convinced it is reading slower than my MPH
> at the same engine revs...axle is 3.9:1 with
> overdrive.....60MPH used to be 2500rpm...
> 100MPH used to be 4300rpm....
> Does anyone remember the mathematics involved in
> calculating correct road speed using tyre
> size and axle ratios.there used to be a web site
> with a calculator..anyone remember..
> Thx in advance
>
> Nick Jones Munich.Germany
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> WEB.DE MyPage - Ultimatives Kommunikationstool! Ihre
> Message sofort
> online! Domain aenderbar!
> http://www.das.ist.aber.ne.lustige.sache.ms/
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From "rod shepherd" <rodshepherd at optusnet.com.au>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:15:44 +1000
Subject: Re: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
Nick according to my references at 2500 rpm you are travelling at 96.6
kilometres per hour and at 4300 rpm at 161 - that is provided nothing else
has changed.
regards
Rod Shepherd-BN4Modified.
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From "Alex" <asuperak at nc.rr.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:26:25 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Check out www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Give Allen or Jerry a call, they have them in stock. I
Alex
BJ834180
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 08:17:11 -0500
Subject: Tool rebuild help
Thanks Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:42:28 -0600
Subject: RE: 67 BJ8 values?
It does seem that prices have been moving up a little recently for
big Healeys in exceptionally nice condition. I don't think that $30k is
terribly unusual for such a car (near concours condition), maybe even a bit
more in some markets. It probably works best to think in terms of a range,
rather than try to zero in on a single figure.
I subscribe to Sports Car Market (www.sportscarmarket.com), and
highly recommend it. There are also several price guides out there, and
they can be useful, but they're not always real up-to-date.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7
-----Original Message-----
From: Coop1
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 10:51 AM
Subject: 67 BJ8 values?
I've an acquaintence in So. California that just inherited his father's
recently restored Calif. black plate '67 BJ8. The car underwent a high
dollar major resto in '99 and due to illness it has been driven little if
any since. Unbelievably his dad had it insured for a stated value of
$18,000. I haven't seen the car but my friend claims that it was restored
to highest standards and needs absolutely nothing. He says it was restored
to be a "1st class club driver", just this side of a show car - what is
that, a 5 footer?
Anyway, my buddy knows very little about Healeys (he's a Porsche nut) so he
wants to explore selling it. He took it to a sleazeball collector/reseller
in So. Calf. and of course the guy wanted to steal it. Knowing that I own a
similar condition '66 BJ8 he asked me for an opinion. Since I'm not selling,
I haven't been following the recent auctions (and they're misleading I
think). Asking prices on the internet are all over the place and it seems
most truly nice cars don't sell on ebay as they never reach the seller's
reserve. I know that our cars have shot up in value but by how much? So is
there anyone out there that can enlighten me on recent BJ8 resale values?
Thanks
Randy "they'll bury me in mine" Harris ('66 BJ8)
BTW - I just spent the most amazing Saturday at the Monterey Historic Auto
Races. I'm still reeling from the excitement of it all.............
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 07:27:10 -0700
Subject: RE: spin-on oil filter adapter
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 10:58:47 EDT
Subject: Re: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
If your tyre diameter is 30" = 2.5' (this varies with inflation), at 4300rpm
and a 3.9:1 overall reduction ratio, you would have:
4300 x 2.5 x 3.1416 x 60 all divided by 3.9 and 5280 = 98.4 mph
At 2500 rpm, you would get 57.2 mph
Better to measure the actual circumference of the tyre...mark the tyre and
the ground, roll it one revolution and measure the distance traveled in feet.
Then use:
mph = (Engine RPM) x (Measured Circumference in feet) x (60 min/hour) all
divided by the overall ratio and 5280 ft/mile.
Regards.
Steve Mickelson
Alleged Engineer
'54 BN-1 Brutus @ 0 rpms and 0 mph
In a message dated 8/20/02 12:32:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time, NJones@web.de
writes:
<< Does anyone remember the mathematics involved in calculating correct road
speed using tyre >>
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 08:40:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Tool rebuild help
Maybe they will take pity on you and sell you the seals, etc.
-Roland
On Tue, 20 Aug 2002 08:17:11 -0500, "Mark and kathy LaPierre"
<mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
:: Listers,
:: I can see by the seeping hydraulic fluid coming from my floor jack
:: that it is time to do some preventive maintenance on this very essential
:: tool in my garage. With out it , I am sunk.
:: To those who have been down this road before. Where does one go to get the
:: seals and what ever else is needed to rebuild these units safely? I do plan
:: on purchasing another jack but would like to have this one to use also.
:: Since this is a "no where to be found" Hollywood Accessories product,
:: Compton,CA. I think I am stuck with trying to find some "over the counter"
:: seals as opposed to the proper rebuild kit from this company.
:: Any help is greatly appreciated.
::
::
:: Thanks Mark,
:: 58-MGA
:: 60-MGA
:: 76-MGB
:: 74.5-MGBGT
:: 60-BT7
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From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 10:35:23 -0500
Subject: Re: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
8200 rpm times 26.5" tall tires equals 217300 divided by 336 equals 646.7
divided by 2.98 rear gear... equals 217mph.... if you divide it by my
Overdrive of .91 you get 238 mph....
Now what really happens is you get out to the 3 mile marker and turn the
Nitrous on.... get 4 seconds into the nitrous burn and the motor starts
making Max power and the Richmond 6 speed says it's had enough.... shucks
6th gear... knocks the 4th gear slider into place and the motor spins up to
about 11,000 Rpm... which would be fine.... except the engine was only
designed for 10,000.... Opps.... so much for the high dollar valve
train.... soooo after the first pass on the Bonneville salt flats you pack
it up and head for home..... another year gone by... whew...
Keith
----------
> From: SMickel950@aol.com
> To: NJones@web.de; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
> Date: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 9:58 AM
>
> Theoretical mph = (Engine RPM) x (Tyre Diameter in feet) x (3.1416) x (60
> min/hour) all divided by the overall ratio and 5280 ft/mile.
>
> If your tyre diameter is 30" = 2.5' (this varies with inflation), at
4300rpm
> and a 3.9:1 overall reduction ratio, you would have:
>
> 4300 x 2.5 x 3.1416 x 60 all divided by 3.9 and 5280 = 98.4 mph
>
> At 2500 rpm, you would get 57.2 mph
>
> Better to measure the actual circumference of the tyre...mark the tyre
and
> the ground, roll it one revolution and measure the distance traveled in
feet.
> Then use:
>
> mph = (Engine RPM) x (Measured Circumference in feet) x (60 min/hour) all
> divided by the overall ratio and 5280 ft/mile.
>
> Regards.
>
> Steve Mickelson
> Alleged Engineer
> '54 BN-1 Brutus @ 0 rpms and 0 mph
>
>
> In a message dated 8/20/02 12:32:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
NJones@web.de
> writes:
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Alan F Cross
To: rod shepherd
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 12:07:56 -0400
Subject: Re: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
Gratuitous advice: put a nice bold chalk mark right across the tread, then
drive forward -- you can usually get two or three impressions on the road,
which provide a slightly more accurate means of measurement.
--
John Miller
N4VU AMA 739245 DoD 1942
"'Broke' is a temporary condition, but 'poor' is a state of mind."
-David Kury
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 11:27:03 -0500
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Ron
Smitty, the 5-speed guy on the west coast, also makes a good one. I have one
and it works great. See his ad in Healey Marque for phone number.
Jack
Check out www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Give Allen or Jerry a call, they have them in stock. I
Alex
BJ834180
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From "Rich VanBuskirk" <rwvanbuskirk at ucdavis.edu>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 09:37:31 -0700
Subject: Re: 67 BJ8 values?
You can also pick up a copy of Hemmings Motor News and get a sense of what's
on the market right now.
Rich
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 12:28:35 -0500
Subject: Hydraulic Jack Repair
Rural King is a retailer that specializes in farm equipment, farm clothing,
sports wear, tools, tires and lawn mowers, etc. There is another store like
this called Tractor Supply that has about the same stuff. Don't know if there
is one in your area or not, but if so, it's worth a try.
Don
BN7
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 13:43:10 -0400
Subject: RE: Encounter 2002, Princeton, NJ
Thank you very much for organizing an outstanding event. This was my first
encounter so I wasn't sure what to expect. What I found was a well
orchestrated four days, with something to interest everyone, even the kids.
In addition, I met some really nice people, including Bob (we met in the
line to pay for the auction items), just confirming that Healey folks are
amongst the nicest folks you can meet.
Andy
'67 BJ8 (red)
-----Original Message-----
From: jomar healey [mailto:ah53@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2002 5:43 PM
To: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group; List, Healey
Subject: Re: Encounter 2002, Princeton, NJ x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Bob
Your car was well deserving of its award. As I was one of the
organizers of Encounter 2002 your kind words on the event and the people who
participated are appreciated. It was a pleasure meeting both you and Mike
Oritt, who took second place in BN1 popular vote class. Hope you arrive
home safely and thanks for the hats--Marge was thrilled
Joe
BN1 #923 BJ8
HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From rfrisby <rfrisby at micron.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 11:53:43 -0600
Subject: RE: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
I went to my favorite search engine, www.google.com, and typed in
"road speed RPM" and found several websites with calculators for this.
Other search-word combos would no doubt uncover more.
The basic formula in any case is:
Road speed = (engine speed) / (overall gear ratio) x (rolling
circumference)
You do have to keep your units straight, which will mean throwing in
some conversion factors.
Bob Frisby
'62 BT7 tricarb
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Jones
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 1:30 AM
Subject: How to calculate speed using axle ratios and tyre size
Having just installed a KMH Speedo in my BN7..I am convinced it is reading
slower than my MPH
at the same engine revs...axle is 3.9:1 with overdrive.....60MPH used to be
2500rpm...
100MPH used to be 4300rpm....
Does anyone remember the mathematics involved in calculating correct road
speed using tyre
size and axle ratios.there used to be a web site with a calculator..anyone
remember..
Thx in advance
Nick Jones Munich.Germany
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 14:21:17 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
<< Smitty, the 5-speed guy on the west coast, also makes a good one. I have
one and it works great. See his ad in Healey Marque for phone number.
Jack
Check out www.hendrixwirewheel.com
Give Allen or Jerry a call, they have them in stock. I >>
Just a note to let you know the spin on adapter Hendrix Wire Wheel sells is
made from solid aluminum bar stock and not a casting. Casting sometimes have
a great deal of prosity.
Don
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 17:09:50 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
I dimly remember (I think) that there was a difference in the kits between
the Purolator and Tecalemit filter heads. I had the Tecalemit version.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<rdavies@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Steve (& Ron) -
>
> I bought that very same moss oil filter adaptor for my
> BJ8 in 1985 - you are lucky you didn't run it on your
> car for very long. After fiddling with the thing
> incessantly to put it on to my Purolator/Tecalemit
> Filter head, I realized that the thing didn't work at
> all - the holes were set up in a way that the oil
> would simply bypass the filter all together - I used
> it for a while but finally chucked it and replaced it
> with an adaptor I bought from Victoria British which
> bolted onto the block. About two years later I guess
> Moss figured out that adaptor was no good and switched
> to the one that all the suppliers sell these days.
>
> So you can get it from moss, or Victoria, or anyone
> else for that matter - they're all basically the same
> these days (unless you get the one that has the oil
> cooler adaptor on it).
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> > Hi, Ron -
> > If you don't like spilling oil all over the place
> > when you change the
> > throw-away element, having to special-order the
> > filter elements, and then
> > dealing with the leaks afterwards, then the spin-on
> > adapter is worth it. It
> > was the first mod I did to my BJ8, back about 1984.
> > Moss came out with the
> > adapter, and I jumped right on it. The style they
> > are selling now is a bit
> > different, I think, with the filter screwing into
> > the adapter at a right
> > angle to the block, whereas the one I bought has the
> > filter in the same
> > orientation as it was originally, parallel to the
> > block. I wouldn't go back
> > to the old style.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
> > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:50 PM
> > Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
> >
> >
> > > Hi!
> > > I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil
> > filter adapter but only
> > came
> > > up with answers on the filter to use.
> > > Can list members who have installed and used the
> > spin-on adapters give me
> > > some advice on which to buy and if it is worth it?
> > > Thanks so much,
> > >
> > > Ronald Davies
> > > BJ8 37444
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 17:29:54 -0500
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Just a note to let you know the spin on adapter Hendrix Wire Wheel sells
is
> made from solid aluminum bar stock and not a casting. Casting sometimes
have
> a great deal of prosity.
>
> Don
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 15:52:24 -0700
Subject: Re: 67 BJ8 values?
When I spoke to the owner two weeks ago, the price was $34K. I have digital
photos if anyone is interested.
Terry Blubaugh
Diamond Bar, CA
Rich VanBuskirk wrote:
> I was in San Diego this past weekend and saw a white BJ8 parked along the
> main drag in Coronado with a for sale sign on the windshield. I pulled over
> to have a look. It was either a '66 or '67 and was in very good, but not
> concours condition. Asking price: $35,000
>
> You can also pick up a copy of Hemmings Motor News and get a sense of what's
> on the market right now.
>
> Rich
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 19:35:29 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Price was competitive and quality excellent. Plus you are dealing with one of
our list members.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 20:02:54 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
The one made from bar stock.
Jerry Anderson
BN4(with bar stock filter adapter)
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 20:19:36 -0400
Subject: Freeze Plugs
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From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 20:22:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Tool rebuild help
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 9:17 AM
Subject: Tool rebuild help
> Listers,
> I can see by the seeping hydraulic fluid coming from my floor jack
> that it is time to do some preventive maintenance on this very essential
> tool in my garage. With out it , I am sunk.
> To those who have been down this road before. Where does one go to get
the
> seals and what ever else is needed to rebuild these units safely? I do
plan
> on purchasing another jack but would like to have this one to use also.
> Since this is a "no where to be found" Hollywood Accessories product,
> Compton,CA. I think I am stuck with trying to find some "over the counter"
> seals as opposed to the proper rebuild kit from this company.
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks Mark,
> 58-MGA
> 60-MGA
> 76-MGB
> 74.5-MGBGT
> 60-BT7
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 19:49:08 -0500
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Oh, this is great news! :-0 My car (and its assorted pile of parts) came
with a brand new oil filter adapter, but I have no idea where it was
purchased from. Circa 1990. Are there any identifiable characteristics
that would tip me off as to whether mine is worth using or not? I haven't
started my engine yet (maybe a good thing), but I sure hate to do so if the
adapter is going to wreak havock!
Thanks,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>;
<rdavies@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Steve (& Ron) -
>
> I bought that very same moss oil filter adaptor for my
> BJ8 in 1985 - you are lucky you didn't run it on your
> car for very long. After fiddling with the thing
> incessantly to put it on to my Purolator/Tecalemit
> Filter head, I realized that the thing didn't work at
> all - the holes were set up in a way that the oil
> would simply bypass the filter all together - I used
> it for a while but finally chucked it and replaced it
> with an adaptor I bought from Victoria British which
> bolted onto the block. About two years later I guess
> Moss figured out that adaptor was no good and switched
> to the one that all the suppliers sell these days.
>
> So you can get it from moss, or Victoria, or anyone
> else for that matter - they're all basically the same
> these days (unless you get the one that has the oil
> cooler adaptor on it).
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
> --- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> > Hi, Ron -
> > If you don't like spilling oil all over the place
> > when you change the
> > throw-away element, having to special-order the
> > filter elements, and then
> > dealing with the leaks afterwards, then the spin-on
> > adapter is worth it. It
> > was the first mod I did to my BJ8, back about 1984.
> > Moss came out with the
> > adapter, and I jumped right on it. The style they
> > are selling now is a bit
> > different, I think, with the filter screwing into
> > the adapter at a right
> > angle to the block, whereas the one I bought has the
> > filter in the same
> > orientation as it was originally, parallel to the
> > block. I wouldn't go back
> > to the old style.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
> > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:50 PM
> > Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
> >
> >
> > > Hi!
> > > I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil
> > filter adapter but only
> > came
> > > up with answers on the filter to use.
> > > Can list members who have installed and used the
> > spin-on adapters give me
> > > some advice on which to buy and if it is worth it?
> > > Thanks so much,
> > >
> > > Ronald Davies
> > > BJ8 37444
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 19:56:07 -0500
Subject: Wooden Steering Wheel Mounting Screws
I recently purchased a Wooden Lacarra(sp) steering wheel (made in France)
from an individual supplier, but it did not come with the mounting screws to
mount to the hub. The supplier apparently does not have any screws to supply.
I bought an adjustable hub from a separate supplier, and it didn't come
supplied with screws either. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Scott Helms
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:11:10 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
<< For us Non Prosity people. Which one are you recommending Don? And
exactly
why is that again? >>
I would use the one that is manufactured from aluminum bar stock. The
machined surfaces on the bar stock material will be a much smoother finish
with no air or sand pockets from casting.
Don
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 18:47:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
If your adaptor is made to bolt directly to the engine
block, it will work fine. If it is made to bolt to
the old tecalemit/purolator filter assembly, it may
not work properly.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "Scott H." <austrheamgafun@arczip.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Oh, this is great news! :-0 My car (and its
> assorted pile of parts) came
> with a brand new oil filter adapter, but I have no
> idea where it was
> purchased from. Circa 1990. Are there any
> identifiable characteristics
> that would tip me off as to whether mine is worth
> using or not? I haven't
> started my engine yet (maybe a good thing), but I
> sure hate to do so if the
> adapter is going to wreak havock!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott Helms
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> <rdavies@cox.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 9:33 PM
> Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
>
>
> > Steve (& Ron) -
> >
> > I bought that very same moss oil filter adaptor
> for my
> > BJ8 in 1985 - you are lucky you didn't run it on
> your
> > car for very long. After fiddling with the thing
> > incessantly to put it on to my Purolator/Tecalemit
> > Filter head, I realized that the thing didn't work
> at
> > all - the holes were set up in a way that the oil
> > would simply bypass the filter all together - I
> used
> > it for a while but finally chucked it and replaced
> it
> > with an adaptor I bought from Victoria British
> which
> > bolted onto the block. About two years later I
> guess
> > Moss figured out that adaptor was no good and
> switched
> > to the one that all the suppliers sell these days.
> >
> > So you can get it from moss, or Victoria, or
> anyone
> > else for that matter - they're all basically the
> same
> > these days (unless you get the one that has the
> oil
> > cooler adaptor on it).
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> > > Hi, Ron -
> > > If you don't like spilling oil all over the
> place
> > > when you change the
> > > throw-away element, having to special-order the
> > > filter elements, and then
> > > dealing with the leaks afterwards, then the
> spin-on
> > > adapter is worth it. It
> > > was the first mod I did to my BJ8, back about
> 1984.
> > > Moss came out with the
> > > adapter, and I jumped right on it. The style
> they
> > > are selling now is a bit
> > > different, I think, with the filter screwing
> into
> > > the adapter at a right
> > > angle to the block, whereas the one I bought has
> the
> > > filter in the same
> > > orientation as it was originally, parallel to
> the
> > > block. I wouldn't go back
> > > to the old style.
> > >
> > > Steve Byers
> > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > BJ8 Registry
> > > Havelock, NC
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
> > > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:50 PM
> > > Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi!
> > > > I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil
> > > filter adapter but only
> > > came
> > > > up with answers on the filter to use.
> > > > Can list members who have installed and used
> the
> > > spin-on adapters give me
> > > > some advice on which to buy and if it is worth
> it?
> > > > Thanks so much,
> > > >
> > > > Ronald Davies
> > > > BJ8 37444
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 18:59:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
It may be working correctly, it's hard to tell. The
best way to do it is to take the whole filter assembly
off the block and blow in the center hole of the
adaptor while plugging one of the two holes on the
other side (I forgot which one). If air flows through
(after you've checked against both holes), then your
adaptor is useless. If you feel full back pressure
when you try to blow, then it is working properly.
Having oil in the filter is no indication if it is
working or not - the car has a pressurized oil system
so the oil pump will force oil into the filter - but
once the filter is full it won't cycle through it - it
will simply bypass the filter in the purolator head -
that's why I removed mine and threw it away, and
replaced it with a block mounted adaptor.
Let me ask you this - does your oil get black after
about 300 miles or so after an oil change? If so,
your oil filter is problably not working.
I wouldn't worry about it too much - the only major
effect will be premature wearing of your motor - it
might wear out your motor 10-20% faster than normal -
not a big deal. As long as your air filters are well
maintained, you should be ok, but I would still check
(and change?) your oil filter set up just to be sure.
You don't want an errant piece of metal getting loose
in the sump and scoring your cylinders or pluggin up
your lubrication channels.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> Hi, Blue -
> Well, to be clear, I STILL am running the 1984/1985
> Moss oil filter adaptor
> on my BJ8. I didn't have any problems installing
> it, except that after I
> received the kit but before I tried to install it,
> I received a notice from
> Moss that there was a part missing from the kit. It
> had to be
> remanufactured because the prototype was made wrong,
> so I had to wait for a
> few months until they sent the correct part. It was
> the center bolt, I
> believe. It may have been bypassing the oil all
> these years, but each time
> I change the filter, it is full of oil. Ignorance
> is bliss.
>
> I dimly remember (I think) that there was a
> difference in the kits between
> the Purolator and Tecalemit filter heads. I had the
> Tecalemit version.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Blue One Hundred
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>;
> <healeys@autox.team.net>;
> <rdavies@cox.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 10:33 PM
> Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
>
>
> > Steve (& Ron) -
> >
> > I bought that very same moss oil filter adaptor
> for my
> > BJ8 in 1985 - you are lucky you didn't run it on
> your
> > car for very long. After fiddling with the thing
> > incessantly to put it on to my Purolator/Tecalemit
> > Filter head, I realized that the thing didn't work
> at
> > all - the holes were set up in a way that the oil
> > would simply bypass the filter all together - I
> used
> > it for a while but finally chucked it and replaced
> it
> > with an adaptor I bought from Victoria British
> which
> > bolted onto the block. About two years later I
> guess
> > Moss figured out that adaptor was no good and
> switched
> > to the one that all the suppliers sell these days.
> >
> > So you can get it from moss, or Victoria, or
> anyone
> > else for that matter - they're all basically the
> same
> > these days (unless you get the one that has the
> oil
> > cooler adaptor on it).
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> >
> > --- Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net> wrote:
> > > Hi, Ron -
> > > If you don't like spilling oil all over the
> place
> > > when you change the
> > > throw-away element, having to special-order the
> > > filter elements, and then
> > > dealing with the leaks afterwards, then the
> spin-on
> > > adapter is worth it. It
> > > was the first mod I did to my BJ8, back about
> 1984.
> > > Moss came out with the
> > > adapter, and I jumped right on it. The style
> they
> > > are selling now is a bit
> > > different, I think, with the filter screwing
> into
> > > the adapter at a right
> > > angle to the block, whereas the one I bought has
> the
> > > filter in the same
> > > orientation as it was originally, parallel to
> the
> > > block. I wouldn't go back
> > > to the old style.
> > >
> > > Steve Byers
> > > HBJ8L/36666
> > > BJ8 Registry
> > > Havelock, NC
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: rdavies <rdavies@cox.net>
> > > To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 7:50 PM
> > > Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi!
> > > > I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil
> > > filter adapter but only
> > > came
> > > > up with answers on the filter to use.
> > > > Can list members who have installed and used
> the
> > > spin-on adapters give me
> > > > some advice on which to buy and if it is worth
> it?
> > > > Thanks so much,
> > > >
> > > > Ronald Davies
> > > > BJ8 37444
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:03:08 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Cheers!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: Steve Byers <byers@cconnect.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Hi Steve -
>
> It may be working correctly, it's hard to tell. The
> best way to do it is to take the whole filter assembly
> off the block and blow in the center hole of the
> adaptor while plugging one of the two holes on the
> other side (I forgot which one). If air flows through
> (after you've checked against both holes), then your
> adaptor is useless. If you feel full back pressure
> when you try to blow, then it is working properly.
>
> Having oil in the filter is no indication if it is
> working or not - the car has a pressurized oil system
> so the oil pump will force oil into the filter - but
> once the filter is full it won't cycle through it - it
> will simply bypass the filter in the purolator head -
> that's why I removed mine and threw it away, and
> replaced it with a block mounted adaptor.
>
> Let me ask you this - does your oil get black after
> about 300 miles or so after an oil change? If so,
> your oil filter is problably not working.
>
> I wouldn't worry about it too much - the only major
> effect will be premature wearing of your motor - it
> might wear out your motor 10-20% faster than normal -
> not a big deal. As long as your air filters are well
> maintained, you should be ok, but I would still check
> (and change?) your oil filter set up just to be sure.
> You don't want an errant piece of metal getting loose
> in the sump and scoring your cylinders or pluggin up
> your lubrication channels.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 22:51:52 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Let me ask you this - does your oil get black after
> about 300 miles or so after an oil change? If so,
> your oil filter is problably not working.
>
>
I have been running K&N 2009 filters on the Moss adaptor for the last year or
so. Engine oil has been kept very clean and changing the filter is a breeze.
My only negative comment is that Moss furnished mounting bolts for the
adaptor plate with incorrect thread for the 100 and I had to buy the correct
ones at exra cost--just a few $$. I believe that Denis Welch's adaptor
utilizes a larger spin-on filter and also allows the addition of an
oil-cooler with little trouble.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 23:07:27 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Also when fitting the spin on oil filter kit it is important to make sure the
cable to the starter does not come in contact with the metal oil filter.
The Moss kit specifies a Fram PH 3600 filter. Cross reference that part
number and upgrade to a better oil filter than Fram.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 23:21:31 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> The Moss kit specifies a Fram PH 3600 filter. Cross reference that part
> number and upgrade to a better oil filter than Fram.
>
>
A recent oil filter study that I have accessed states (and a visual
examination documents) that the Fram filter is very lightly made, with
cardboard innards and a lightweight base plate. The WIX/NAPA Gold filters
are more sturdy and the K&N seems to be best of all. BTW, I spraypaint the
filter elements Healey Green prior to mounting them in order to conform to
originality standards....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 21:35:06 -0600
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Well being faithful to the mother country I'm using a Denis Welch spin on oil
filter adapter with an additional sandwich section which supplies and receives
oil from an oil cooler mount lower front of the radiator. The Welch adapter
takes
Unipart or the North American equivalent which is a Wix filter. The design is
very adequate and the filter's length relative to the starter does not come
into
play.
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
Jwhlyadv@aol.com wrote:
> A longer oil filter can be a problem on BJ8's fitted with a brake servo.
> Lenshows kit includes both sets of bolts.
>
> Also when fitting the spin on oil filter kit it is important to make sure the
> cable to the starter does not come in contact with the metal oil filter.
>
> The Moss kit specifies a Fram PH 3600 filter. Cross reference that part
> number and upgrade to a better oil filter than Fram.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jim Werner
> Louisville, KY
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From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 00:01:04 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
This was some years ago and I do not know what they are doing today.
The point being that they did furnish a correct and usable part that
seems to be what is equal to other sources.
Bob
55 BN1
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 04:09:51 +0000
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
> Scott -
>
> If your adaptor is made to bolt directly to the engine
> block, it will work fine. If it is made to bolt to
> the old tecalemit/purolator filter assembly, it may
> not work properly.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 23:23:43 -0500
Subject: Re: 67 BJ8 values?
July through Sept. CPI (Cars of Particular Interest)
1963-67 Convertible 3000 Mk III
Fair $ 14,400.00 Good $ 22,150.00 Excel. $34,325.00
Up 2% from the last publication.
Definitions
Good: Very nice condition. In fact, most casual observers would describe the
vehicle as "EXCELLENT". "GOOD" cars show very little wear and are driven
sparingly. Many are used as weekend drivers. Many older restorations fall into
this category.
Fair: Presentable condition. Runs and drives and will pass a state safety
inspection. May be driven on a daily bases. Generally in need of a cosmetic
restoration, but not a "basket case". There are many cars on the road that fall
below CPI's "FAIR" category, and will be priced accordingly. These are commonly
referred to as "beaters" and are usually not worth restoring. as the restoration
costs will almost certainly exceed the value of the finished vehicle.
Excellent; Nearly perfect condition. The vehicle has usually been professionally
restored to the current highest standards, but a few exceptionally well cared
for
original cars may qualify. All components are are original or are an exact
replacement. Most "EXCELLENT" cars are not driven more than a few miles per
year,
if at all. There are vehicles, usually due to an interesting history or special
circumstances, which will sell for more than CPI's "EXCELLENT" figure, but these
are extremely rare and would require extensive documentation. Some buyers are
willing to pay more than current market value for a specific vehicle. CPI cannot
determine how much of a premium over market value a individual is willing to
pay.
Conversely, some sellers need to sell their cars immediately and may take less
than the prevailing market value.
There's more info than this in the CPI and NADA guides but I think you get the
picture. (not associated with either book not responsible for type errors ect.,
yada, yada, yada)
Rick Ollah
54 BN1
Coop1 wrote:
> I've an acquaintence in So. California that just inherited his father's
> recently restored Calif. black plate '67 BJ8. The car underwent a high
> dollar major resto in '99 and due to illness it has been driven little if
> any since. Unbelievably his dad had it insured for a stated value of
> $18,000. I haven't seen the car but my friend claims that it was restored
> to highest standards and needs absolutely nothing. He says it was restored
> to be a "1st class club driver", just this side of a show car - what is
> that, a 5 footer?
>
> Anyway, my buddy knows very little about Healeys (he's a Porsche nut) so he
> wants to explore selling it. He took it to a sleazeball collector/reseller
> in So. Calf. and of course the guy wanted to steal it. Knowing that I own a
> similar condition '66 BJ8 he asked me for an opinion. Since I'm not selling,
> I haven't been following the recent auctions (and they're misleading I
> think). Asking prices on the internet are all over the place and it seems
> most truly nice cars don't sell on ebay as they never reach the seller's
> reserve. I know that our cars have shot up in value but by how much? So is
> there anyone out there that can enlighten me on recent BJ8 resale values?
> Thanks
> Randy "they'll bury me in mine" Harris ('66 BJ8)
>
> BTW - I just spent the most amazing Saturday at the Monterey Historic Auto
> Races. I'm still reeling from the excitement of it all.............
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From Ian.Harrison at csiro.au
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:26:27 +1000
Subject: BN4 engines and heads
I have recently acquired a second BN4 engine and noticed some subtle
differences between my original and the new one.
The early engine (473##) which has a gallery 2 port head has dished pistons,
is this an original Healey arrangement? and if so, when and why was this
done? aside from the obvious impact on the compression ratio, what are the
benefits or shortcomings in using dished pistons?
The later engine (735##) has exhaust valve reliefs cut into the block beside
the bores, I understood that there was around 450 thou between the valves
and the block face, is this correct and if so, why are the reliefs required?
I intend to place the newer head onto the older block "the older block is
completely reconditioned, balanced etc"
Is the later 12 port head compatible with the earlier block?
Is there any chance of valves hitting the block or pistons?
Are there any other unforseen problems in the swap? "later head onto older
block"
many thanks
Ian, BN4, Aus
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 07:36:38 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
> Their note said only BN1's from 136894 to 213324 required
> BSF bolts, their part number 323-335.
>
Bob--My car is #222333 and required the (unfurnished and extra charge) BSF
thread. As we all--including Moss--should know, there are no "absolutes"
when it comes to what parts are to be found on what cars. They would not
take back on exchange the furnished non-fitting bolts as against the ones
that I had to order separately. Not a big deal but nonsensical packaging and
bad customer relations policy.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 08:19:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Wooden Steering Wheel Mounting Screws
<< I recently purchased a Wooden Lacarra(sp) steering wheel (made in France)
from an individual supplier, but it did not come with the mounting screws to
mount to the hub. >>
SAcott,
You can get flat socket head cap screws or even phillips head with ny loc
nuts the correct length at a got fastner house. Stainless or black oxide
finish.
Don
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:51:44 +0100
Subject: Lubricating the water pump
I always use a dab of waterproof grease on the end of my finger every service -
push lightly to insert the grease into the hole.
Regards
Paul
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
Subject: Lubricating the water pump
Hello, Healeyphiles!
My old waterpump was a rebuilt unit that had permanently sealed bearings, so
no screw to remove for lubricating the pump. The spare pump I just installed
does have the screw. The workshop manual has a diagram shoing the screw, but
doesn't mention how to lubricate the bearings once the screw is removed. The
screw hole is thoughtfully located just in-line with the rear edge of the
pulley, so it isn't possible to screw in an angled zerk. I could probably get
a straight zerk in there with some difficulty, but then I couldn't get the
coupling of the grease gun on it anyway.
What is the proper technique for lubricating this type of water pump, and at
what interval?
Thanks,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:59:27 -0400
Subject: Bj8 window
please reply off list, will pay for shipping.
Carroll Phillips
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:08:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Disk Wheel Problems, BT7
With the Compomotive bolt on wheels I got I had to add an adaptor to the
rear. Needed 1.25 to provide clearance of the tires and the inner fender
well. If you want I can look up the particulars and send them.
Keith Pennell
> Hi Ken, thanks for getting back to me so soon. I presume your Healey has
disk
> wheels. I'm not familiar with the hub-axle-brake drum arrangement of
original
> disk wheel Healeys. Mine always had wires until my recent restoration
when I
> switched to the KN alloy 5-stud bolt ons. I figured (probably wrongly)
that
> by installing the longer studs in the rotating hub, that I could just bolt
on
> the wheels. While everything bolts up just fine, the rear track is
somewhat
> narrower than the front. Would you please explain what the "adapter" is
that
> you mentioned and what you meant by "off the shelf??" Do the adapters
widen
> the rear track and are they available for purchase somewhere?? Please
let me
> hear back from you again as I'm just about ready to put the old girl back
on
> the road. Thanks!!
> Jack
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:27:01 -0400
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Modified the right angle part of a Purolator assembly to accomodate a spin
on filter. More trouble and expense (had to buy a 25 mm tap) than simply
buying the ones available but it looks like an orig because the Purolator
logo is still showing! The filter wnds up nearly vertical. Will supply to
details to anyone who requests them.
Keith Pennell
> Hi!
> I did a search of the archives for spin-on oil filter adapter but only
came
> up with answers on the filter to use.
> Can list members who have installed and used the spin-on adapters give me
> some advice on which to buy and if it is worth it?
> Thanks so much,
>
> Ronald Davies
> BJ8 37444
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 10:55:37 -0500
Subject: Still need more trafficator help
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "Formosinho Sanchez" <manuelfs at emparque.pt>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:05:51 +0100
Subject: Oil Leaks and PCV systems + UK meeting
Regards
Manuel Sanchez
58 Frog
55 BN1
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:52:41 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Best--Michael Oritt
In a message dated 8/21/02 11:34:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
mgrant@mossmotors.com writes:
> I noticed this thread and I have some additional information, because
> I was involved in the development of this product.
>
> In our order entry system, when you enter the part number for the Healey
> spin-on adaptor, you see this comment on screen:
> Date No. Comment Code User ID
> 11/22/99 635-840 FOR BN1 (E)136894 to 213324 send two 323-335 3/8 -
> BSF allen head bolts N/C.
>
> Based on the sales invoice, it looks like the spin-on adaptor was ordered
> by
> phone in May of 2001. John, the salesman who took the order, should have
> told you that when you ordered the item; if your serial number was in that
> range the bolts should have been included in the original order at no
> charge.
>
> In any event, no matter when you asked for them, they should have been sent
> N/C. If you bring the bolt (323-335) up in order entry, here is what you
> see: "Austin Healey BN1 with engine numbers 136894 to 213324 used 3/8 BSF
> bolts to bolt the oil filter head to the block. These bolts are required to
> mount the 635-840 spin on adapter to those engines. Send them N/C." I added
> that comment in June of 2001 in an effort to stop salespeople from charging
> people like yourself. Since it was added in June, the comment would not
> have
> showed up in May when you called to ask about the special bolts.
> Nevertheless, the salesperson handling the call should have done it
> differently.
>
> Why not just include them?
> We don't include them because 99% of the cars don't need them, and the 3/8
> BSF socket cap set screws we supply are expensive. If we made them part of
> the kit, the price would have to go up, which we are trying to avoid.
>
> On behalf of Moss I apologize for the way this was handled.
> The "system" we devised was flawed, and we've taken steps to correct it.
> I will circulate this email among the staff too.
>
> Michael Grant
> 67 BJ8, 61 MGA, 73 MGBGT
> Manager, Corporate Information Systems
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> 1-800-235-6954, Extension 3234
> 1-805-692-2510 FAX
> mgrant@mossmotors.com
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 11:53:42 -0700
Subject: John Chatham's new Healeys
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm
Other than the limited information in the article, does anyone know anything
about this?
Doug Ingram
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:10:29 EDT
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
> Headline in the BBC news: "Austin Healey Marque Returns"
>
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm
>
> Other than the limited information in the article, does anyone know
> anything about this?
>
>
>
Pretty interesting and a lot cheaper than "The CapeSport 3000" .
I wonder how he gets the right to use the "Healey" name?
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:38:58 -0400
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ingram" <dougi@shaw.ca>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: John Chatham's new Healeys
> Headline in the BBC news: "Austin Healey Marque Returns"
>
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm
>
> Other than the limited information in the article, does anyone know
anything about this?
>
>
> Doug Ingram
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From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:49:56 +0100
Subject: spin-on oil filter adapter - fixing bolts
This is all very confusing!
If we are talking about the bolts that fit the whole original filter and
adaptor assembly to the cylinder block then these were BSF for the whole
BN1 and BN2 range. In fact these continue well on into when versions of
our 4 cylinder engines when fitted to such things as FX4 London taxis.
The numbers 136894 to 213324 come from Austin Service Journal Volume 24
Engine 25 and relate to ENGINE numbers. Engines around 136894 were
fitted to the first production 100 in May 1953. Engines around 213324
were fitted in May 1954 which happens also to be the issue date of the
Austin Service Journal. The chassis number of a car built around this
time would be C1599xx.
However this all gets more strange. The change is to introduce a new Oil
Filter adaptor to improve the clearance between the bottom of the filter
and the engine mounting. With this went longer bolts/setscrews to clamp
the original fiter assembly and adaptor together. These kept the same
nuts so were still BSF. However I cannot see what these have to do with
a spin off adaptor?
It rather appears to me that Moss do not know what they are talking
about and that all 100s would need the BSF bolts that you had to pay
more for.
If I accuse Moss wrongly then I am happy to correct my view. However I
am only prepared to do this if facts are provided not opinions.
All the best
>
>
>> Their note said only BN1's from 136894 to 213324 required
>> BSF bolts, their part number 323-335.
>>
>
>Bob--My car is #222333 and required the (unfurnished and extra charge) BSF
>thread. As we all--including Moss--should know, there are no "absolutes"
>when it comes to what parts are to be found on what cars. They would not
>take back on exchange the furnished non-fitting bolts as against the ones
>that I had to order separately. Not a big deal but nonsensical packaging and
>bad customer relations policy.
>
>Best--Michael Oritt
>
--
John Harper
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 15:44:23 -0400
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Ingram
To: Healey List
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 2:53 PM
Subject: John Chatham's new Healeys
Headline in the BBC news: "Austin Healey Marque Returns"
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm
Other than the limited information in the article, does anyone know anything
about this?
Doug Ingram
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 16:18:49 -0500
Subject: New Healey
Am I right on this one, Jim?
Don
BN7
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:32:54 EDT
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter - fixing bolts
> It rather appears to me that Moss do not know what they are talking
> about and that all 100s would need the BSF bolts that you had to pay
> more for.
>
>
John--
Notwithstanding Moss's understanding, the socket-head bolts that were
furnished were apparently for some other--no doubt later--application. As I
stated in my earlier post, Moss has set the matter straight and has credited
me with the amount that I mistakenly had to pay to get the USF mounting
bolts. I am satisfied that they made an inadvertent mistake and they
rectified the situation on their own initiative.
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:48:59 EDT
Subject: Re: New Healey
> As long as Mr. Chatham himself doesn't use the "Austin Healey" name in
> advertising, there really isn't much that can be done about it. He (of
> course) cannot use the logo or the name on the car either. But if he
> builds a car that looks exactly like an Austin Healey (without logos)
Go to: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm and see the picture.
Sure looks like some facsimile of Healey wings on the shroud to me! Of
course, there are many firms around the Healey campfire that use the wings
in their literature, etc.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Splitkane" <Splitkane at GenomicTechnologies.com>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:48:59 -0400
Subject: Encounter 2002 PICS
Sorry about some of the photos. I found it difficult to take these action
shots with a digital camera!
http://www.neves.millis.ma.us/encounter2002.htm
Sincerely,
Rick Neves
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 06:52:09 +1000
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
I think (opinion) that Michael is on to it - it isn't a 'new' Healey at
all - its an 'old healey' restored and 'updated' using some modern/different
components to improve performance- like the CapeSports 3000 today. Not a lot
different to a 'Ruddspeed Healey' in its day (40 years ago) or the Jack
Brabham Climax engined Sprites of the 60s.
I think the key phrase is: "It is constructed using Healey parts and has a
state-of-the-art Australian-built 190bhp aluminium engine"
Details of the Aluminium 3000 block project are on Larry Varleys website
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/dmd1.html a 'replica' of the works rally
block for the last of the BJ8 rally cars. John Chatham has one of the
origininal works alloy 3 litre blocks.
So it is a Healey - built using sort of 'motorsport marque history inspired
modern parts' rather than 'pure nasty boy off the shelf' componentry - to
get modern day performance.
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <dougi@shaw.ca>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 5:10 AM
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
> In a message dated 8/21/02 3:00:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dougi@shaw.ca
> writes:
>
>
> > Headline in the BBC news: "Austin Healey Marque Returns"
> >
> > http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm
> >
> > Other than the limited information in the article, does anyone know
> > anything about this?
> >
> >
> >
>
> Pretty interesting and a lot cheaper than "The CapeSport 3000" .
> I wonder how he gets the right to use the "Healey" name?
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 14:43:39 -0700
Subject: Timing Chain Installation-4 cylinder
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Alex [mailto:asuperak@nc.rr.com]
To: rdavies; Healeys
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:02:28 EDT
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
> its an 'old healey' restored and 'updated' using some modern/different
> components to improve performance- like the CapeSports 3000 today. Not a
> lot
> different to a 'Ruddspeed Healey' in its day (40 years ago) or the Jack
> Brabham Climax engined Sprites of the 60s.
>
> I think the key phrase is: "It is constructed using Healey parts and has a
> state-of-the-art Australian-built 190bhp aluminium engine"
>
> Details of the Aluminium 3000 block project are on Larry Varleys website
>
>
Assuming for a moment that the world rushes to Mr. Chatham's doorstep, are
these blocks readily available? I seem to recall someone stuffing a 3-liter
engine into a 4-cylinder car....
Best--Michael
Michael
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:14:53 -0400
Subject: BN1 Seat Back and Foam
> It looks like I need at least new foam in the seat backs and maybe new
steel
> seat backs as well. Are there any comments on the Moss foam and steel
> backs? Also where can I get the decorative beading that goes around the
> rear base of the seat backs. My leather is good and I don't want to
replace
> it.
>
> Mark
> BN1
> Nashville
I have successfully used the seat backs as supplied from Kilmartin in
Australia. I cannot comment on the Moss ones not having used them.
I can say that there is a common problem with many of the foams available
for Hundreds, and that is they are often too full in width across the back,
and that a pair of wedge shaped cutouts must be made in the left and right
lower raised portions beginning with about 1 1/4" wide at the base tapering
up to zero about 11" up.
The "decorative beading" you refer to is called a "hidem" strip. It hides
the trimmer's tacks in between a pair of rolled beads running right through
the centre of the strip. The tacks are the means by which the material on
the back side of the seat back is held in place having been pulled firmly
down the back. The tacks go in to a 3" wide 1/8" thick wood tacking strip
which is riveted to the lower back perimeter of the seat back. The hidem
strip is finished on the ends with a pair of nickel plated finishers.
This is difficult to describe, hope it's understandable.
Rich chrysler
Rich chrysler
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:28:21 -0700
Subject: Re: New Healey
Maybe, as a group, we should all turn him in. There may be a reward. WoW!
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/21/02 5:18:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> donyarber@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > As long as Mr. Chatham himself doesn't use the "Austin Healey" name in
> > advertising, there really isn't much that can be done about it. He (of
> > course) cannot use the logo or the name on the car either. But if he
> > builds a car that looks exactly like an Austin Healey (without logos)
>
> Go to: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/2203405.stm and see the picture.
> Sure looks like some facsimile of Healey wings on the shroud to me! Of
> course, there are many firms around the Healey campfire that use the wings
> in their literature, etc.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From James B Dalglish <leaker at exit109.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:40:42 -0400
Subject: Healey sighting
Jim Dalglish
Manasquan, NJ
BT72167
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From "Alan Tadd" <alantadd at hotmail.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 23:50:26 +0100
Subject: Re: New Healey
The new car is based on his famous racing car and is a Healey, modified for
todays motoring environment.
The block is top class engineering, and the casting is magnificent.
The car was displayed at this years 50th at Thruxton.
Regards
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: R.Denton, Auburn Design Group
Sent: 21 August 2002 23:33
To: Awgertoo@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: New Healey
Ten to one says that he is using Healey frames and VIN numbers and therefore
the
car is an Austin Healey. The same way that some companies do Jaguars. He
states
that he uses all Healy parts.
Maybe, as a group, we should all turn him in. There may be a reward. WoW!Get
more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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From "R.Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 19:24:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
James B Dalglish wrote:
> I was traveling North on Rt 34 In New Jersey in Wall Township and saw a
> Robbins Egg Blue over unwashed white BJ7 or 8 about 2 PM. Any listers
> responsible?
>
> Jim Dalglish
> Manasquan, NJ
> BT72167
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from Canada? Does it matter where delivery and/or payment occurs, etc. And
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 21:15:43 EDT
Subject: Importing a car from Canada
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 18:16:28 -0700
Subject: Viruses - Not Healey Related
I've been getting a lot of (rather crude) apparent virus-carrier messages
lately.
No pattern, just messages from email addresses I've never heard of--with
attachments--and plain silly subject fields ("pretty japanese girl," "welcome
to my hometown," "IE 6 patch for you").
Anybody else seeing this noise? I'm wondering if someone on the List
is infected.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:48:16 EDT
Subject: Re: New Healey
> Ten to one says that he is using Healey frames and VIN numbers and therefore
> the
> car is an Austin Healey. The same way that some companies do Jaguars. He
> states
> that he uses all Healy parts.
>
> Maybe, as a group, we should all turn him in. There may be a reward. WoW!
>
> Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
I guess I don't understand what we'd be "turning him in" for?, selling
repaired, modified, old sports cars?, there's a crime!
As far as that goes, the Austin Healey world is a better place for having
John Chatham involved in it since almost the dawn of Healeys. He has been an
awesome competitor and a tireless promoter of these cars for a long time.
Essentially, he is assuring that more people find them interesting for quite
some time. Seeing these cars in competition, and especially Mr Chatham
behind the wheel of one is a treat!
I for one, do not sign up for the posse!
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
(more always welcome!)
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 21 Aug 2002 23:17:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
Try http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4140eq/rc4140-e.html. It's a
Government of Canada site, so its straight from the horse's mouth (at
least I think it's that end).
John P. New
London, Ontario, Canada
67 BJ8
On Wed, 2002-08-21 at 21:15, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> Other than individual State licensing fees and sales taxes, are there any US
> duties, etc. that must be paid if a US citizen purchaes and imports a car
> from Canada? Does it matter where delivery and/or payment occurs, etc. And
> what about compliance with lighting and other requirements--do they apply to
> older cars?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 11:17:54 +0800
Subject: Re: John Chatham's new Healeys
At the 50th celebrations Thruxton trade exhibit marquee John Chatham had a
display showing an Austin Healey for sale.
At the rear of his display was an upturned new aluminium block and beside it
an older aluminium block that had internal damage. It looks like it had
thrown a rod as the bottom of a cylinder liner was broken out. So there we
had the old and the new. The new block was far more substantial around the
main bearing caps.
There was no one manning the display at the time so I could not find out any
further information.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 21:20:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
Some information is here:
http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/imp-exp2/informal/car.htm
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
> Michael,
>
> Try http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4140eq/rc4140-e.html. It's a
> Government of Canada site, so its straight from the horse's mouth (at
> least I think it's that end).
>
> John P. New
> London, Ontario, Canada
> 67 BJ8
>
>
> On Wed, 2002-08-21 at 21:15, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> > Other than individual State licensing fees and sales taxes, are there
any US
> > duties, etc. that must be paid if a US citizen purchaes and imports a
car
> > from Canada? Does it matter where delivery and/or payment occurs, etc.
And
> > what about compliance with lighting and other requirements--do they
apply to
> > older cars?
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Mike Goode" <mlgoode at msn.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:16:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Viruses - Not Healey Related
I run Norton AV and it intercepts 5 or more messages a day with the Klez
virus. Frustrating and scary. I don't think these are coming from the Healey
list. From what I am told, if someone opens the infected file, it grabs
your e-mail address from any messages you may have been copied on and then
starts sending messages with the virus attachment. Some of the text in the
messages appear that the sender is obviously not US in origin...
There is no prevention like a good and updated virus checker that scans
incoming e-mail messages for any known viruses. Norton is great (not too
expensive. You can find it on-line for $30 or less and updates are free for
a year) because anytime you are connected to the net, it looks for updates
and will advise you that one is available for immediate download. It's a "no
brainer" to keep current.
Mike Goode
Scottsdale
BJ8/Phase II
Brand new 350ZX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: Viruses - Not Healey Related
Folks,
I've been getting a lot of (rather crude) apparent virus-carrier messages
lately.
No pattern, just messages from email addresses I've never heard of--with
attachments--and plain silly subject fields ("pretty japanese girl,"
"welcome
to my hometown," "IE 6 patch for you").
Anybody else seeing this noise? I'm wondering if someone on the List
is infected.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:56:40 -0700
Subject: Viruses - Not Healey Related
Apparently, no one else on the List has noticed an increase in virus messages,
so
I'll continue trying to figure out the source(s).
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 09:57:23 +0100
Subject: BN4 Freeze Plugs
I recently sent the following off-list to another BN4 owner asking about
modifications to standard - it might interest you. One thing to beware of with
the BN4 freeze plugs is that there are plugs of the same diameter available but
thinner section, which do not seal so well. I suggest that you purchase a set
from your preferred Healey specialist. My car has now run for over 15 years
with the replacement plugs. These have a smear of jointing compound (Hammerite
Red) and were expanded into place using a ball headed hammer striking the
centre of the plug.
"When I first had my car back on the road, it blew out a core plug. I ended up
having to change all of them (!) with the engine in the car; possible but not
easy!
Apart from replacing all of the core plugs with the engine out of the car,
there are straps available that fix over these plugs and prevent them blowing
out - the worst that you get is weeping. (The block has to be drilled and
tapped either side of each core plug and the strap is fitted via a small screw
at either end. A further small screw in the centre of the strap bears onto the
centre of the core plug).
These were developed by the racers/rally enthusiasts (possibly even used by the
factory) and are available from Cape International and Dennis Welch in the UK
plus others. They don't cost very much and the block drill/tap should not be
too expensive if other engine machining is being done. I intend to do this if
my engine ever comes out of the car!"
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 20:19:36 -0400
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
Subject: Freeze Plugs
Dear List :
A year ago I started the engine in my Longbridge Bn-4 after a 25
year storage. I set the engine aside and completely disassembled the car
and rebuilt it from the frame up. well now I have the engine, trans. and
rear end in the chassis, with all the necessary fluids. Sunday I
started the engine again and pushed the clutch in, let it out and WOW I
went foreword and even backwards. Today I put new points ,plugs,
condenser and distributor cap and the engine ran and purred, It was
great until the rear freeze plug on the block popped out.
My question is, there any knack's to replacing the plug and should I
replace all of them, what size are they....dished or cupped
Where is a good place to get them..M**s, Napa or a local engine
rebuilder
Thanks in advance Dennis Broughel.......BN-4........45281
Longbridge
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 10:02:19 +0100
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
So do I!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 23:21:31 EDT
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
In a message dated 8/20/02 11:07:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jwhlyadv
writes:
> The Moss kit specifies a Fram PH 3600 filter. Cross reference that part
> number and upgrade to a better oil filter than Fram.
>
>
A recent oil filter study that I have accessed states (and a visual
examination documents) that the Fram filter is very lightly made, with
cardboard innards and a lightweight base plate. The WIX/NAPA Gold filters
are more sturdy and the K&N seems to be best of all. BTW, I spraypaint the
filter elements Healey Green prior to mounting them in order to conform to
originality standards....
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 05:47:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
> Ok Michael,
>
> Time to come clean! So what are you planning on buying????
C'mon Chris--I'm just taking a survey.
Best--Michael
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 07:34:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Viruses - Not Healey Related
The ones I've noticed lately are versions of the Klez worm, usually
identifiable by their three attachments, and if you view *all* the headers,
you'll find that the originating email address is someone with whom you've
exchanged email.
To Mike Good's point, some kind of prophylactic measures are highly
recommended. At our house, the solution of choice is not Norton, but having
a computer that is Microsoft-free. Also highly recommended.
Best regards,
John Miller
Fayetteville, GA
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 04:56:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
Is there anything else you spray paint metallic
green?? I don't want to know...
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Paul Negus <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com> wrote:
> Michael
>
> So do I!
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
> Longbridge BN4
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 23:21:31 EDT
> From: Awgertoo@aol.com
> Subject: Re: spin-on oil filter adapter
>
> In a message dated 8/20/02 11:07:27 PM Eastern
> Daylight Time, Jwhlyadv
> writes:
>
>
> > The Moss kit specifies a Fram PH 3600 filter.
> Cross reference that part
> > number and upgrade to a better oil filter than
> Fram.
> >
> >
>
> A recent oil filter study that I have accessed
> states (and a visual
> examination documents) that the Fram filter is very
> lightly made, with
> cardboard innards and a lightweight base plate. The
> WIX/NAPA Gold filters
> are more sturdy and the K&N seems to be best of all.
> BTW, I spraypaint the
> filter elements Healey Green prior to mounting them
> in order to conform to
> originality standards....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 22:20:15 +1000
Subject: Of alloy engine blocks!
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 10:15:38 -0700
Subject: starter
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From "John P. New" <jnew at hazelden.ca>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: 22 Aug 2002 10:05:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
John P. New
London, Ontario Canada
67 BJ8
On Thu, 2002-08-22 at 00:20, Doug Ingram wrote:
> Actually, John, Michael's inquiry was about importing a car _from_ Canada to
> the USA, not _to_ Canada.
>
> Some information is here:
>
> http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/imp-exp2/informal/car.htm
>
> Doug Ingram
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John P. New" <jnew@hazelden.ca>
> To: "Healey-List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 8:17 PM
> Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
>
>
> > Michael,
> >
> > Try http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4140eq/rc4140-e.html. It's a
> > Government of Canada site, so its straight from the horse's mouth (at
> > least I think it's that end).
> >
> > John P. New
> > London, Ontario, Canada
> > 67 BJ8
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From stephen tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 10:22:48 -0700
Subject: Harmonic crank balancer
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 00:35:28 +1000
Subject: Re: Of alloy engine blocks!
Makes me really proud to be Australian! And - BTW - congrats on finishing
your car!! Bloody well done!!
I understand that this block isn't eligible for FIA/ CAMS historic racing -
but it is still a brilliant piece of "period re-engineering' for road going
cars.
And it once and for all dismisses a friends personal theory that all old
Healey Blocks were only ever designed to be ship moorings.... An 80 kg
mooring made of aluminium - nah - too light - just wouldn't work!
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Varley" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 10:20 PM
Subject: Of alloy engine blocks!
> Cheers All
> With all this talk of Chatham Healeys with Australian engines I thought
> it timely to add a few of the latest images of the block to the site.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 09:55:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Viruses - Not Healey Related
(Speaking from experience of a time when my computer was shut down (as
in off) for several days, but virus-laden nonsense messages purporting
to come from me went to several people.)
-Roland
On Thu, 22 Aug 2002 07:34:18 -0400, John Miller <healeys@n4vu.com>
wrote:
:: The ones I've noticed lately are versions of the Klez worm, usually
:: identifiable by their three attachments, and if you view *all* the headers,
:: you'll find that the originating email address is someone with whom you've
:: exchanged email.
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From "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard at Clearchannel.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 17:14:15 -0700
Subject: RE: Healey sighting
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8
I was traveling North on Rt 34 In New Jersey in Wall Township and saw a
Robbins Egg Blue over unwashed white BJ7 or 8 about 2 PM. Any listers
responsible?
Jim Dalglish
Manasquan, NJ
BT72167
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 13:20:32 -0400
Subject: OT: Viruses - Not Healey Related
> (Speaking from experience of a time when my computer was shut down (as
> in off) for several days, but virus-laden nonsense messages purporting
> to come from me went to several people.)
Well, yes, that's what I was saying, but apparently didn't say very well.
You have to view ALL the headers to see what the originating system actually
was. The worm will rip through a system's address book, and grab addresses
that it then uses to forge the "From:" lines. What happened was that someone
with whom you had exchanged email became infected, so your email address
became one of the forged "From:" addresses.
So if you reply to one of those Klez-laden emails to warn the sender that
he's got a virus, you're replying to the wrong place. You need to check the
full headers to see where the message actually originated.
Dig?
--
John Miller
N4VU AMA 739245 DoD 1942
"'Broke' is a temporary condition, but 'poor' is a state of mind."
-David Kury
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 12:10:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bullard, Ran" <RanBullard@Clearchannel.com>
To: "'James B Dalglish'" <leaker@exit109.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: Healey sighting
> I'm not responsible for your sighting, but I sure was held responsible 43
> years ago when, at 0100 on the Garden State Parkway in Wall Township, New
> Jersey, I drove a twin-cam MGA at about 115 MPH while racing a guy in a
'55
> Chev. I saw red lights in my rear-view mirror and slowed to 60 MPH while
a
> State Trooper passed me at well over 100 MPH in a Chrysler 300. I
breathed
> a sigh of relief until I came upon another trooper flagging everyone over
to
> an exit where we parked on the side of the road. The first trooper walked
> down the line of cars and picked me and the driver of the Chevy and told
us
> to "Get out of your vehicle!" We did, and a couple of weeks later I lost
my
> new and very precious driver's license. By the way, I noticed that the
> whole front end of that Chrysler 300 was shaking as the beast idled by the
> side of the road. The trooper told me that all their 300s had a pretty
wild
> grind on the cams and that the head of the State Police was always
> complaining that the rear tires were being consumed at an unacceptable
rate!
>
> Ran Bullard
> '67 BJ8
>
> I was traveling North on Rt 34 In New Jersey in Wall Township and saw a
> Robbins Egg Blue over unwashed white BJ7 or 8 about 2 PM. Any listers
> responsible?
>
> Jim Dalglish
> Manasquan, NJ
> BT72167
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 14:33:41 -0500
Subject: Fuel Fill Tube and rebuilt rear shocks
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 15:56:31 EDT
Subject: need oil pan
Price Tuley
ptuleysr@cs.com
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From "Alan Schultz" <alan at andysnet.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 15:23:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Fill Tube and rebuilt rear shocks
> Hi All, I'm just about ready to put the 'ol BT7 Mk2 (of which I'm the
original
> owner) back on the road after a two decade restoration. Some little
details
> escape my failing mind...the little flange around the top of the gas fill
> neck...does this sit atop the rubber grommet or is it embedded inside the
> grommet. Can't find any evidence of a recess for the latter, but this is
a
> new grommet from a well known west coast supplier so it may or may not be
> correctly reproduced. Also, has anyone had bad experiences with Apple
rebuilt
> shocks?? I bought the rears about 1997 but just installed them a few
weeks
> ago. The car has not yet left my driveway and the right rear shock leaks
> around the shaft...is it a bad rebuild or should I have exercised it
before
> now?? Any feedback on this?? Just lookin' for a little
> help....thanks!!
> Jack
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From dougi at shaw.ca
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 13:36:07 -0700
Subject: Re: rebuilt rear shocks
Bad experience with Apple's rebuilt shocks are not unknown.
Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto in Madison WI does a great job of
rebuilding lever arm shocks
nosimport@mailbag.com
http://www.mailbag.com/users/nosimport/
I recommend him highly.
Good luck,
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
Date: Thursday, August 22, 2002 12:33 pm
Subject: Fuel Fill Tube and rebuilt rear shocks
> Hi All, I'm just about ready to put the 'ol BT7 Mk2 (of which I'm
> the original
> owner) back on the road after a two decade restoration. Some
> little details
> escape my failing mind...the little flange around the top of the
> gas fill
> neck...does this sit atop the rubber grommet or is it embedded
> inside the
> grommet. Can't find any evidence of a recess for the latter, but
> this is a
> new grommet from a well known west coast supplier so it may or may
> not be
> correctly reproduced. Also, has anyone had bad experiences with
> Apple rebuilt
> shocks?? I bought the rears about 1997 but just installed them a
> few weeks
> ago. The car has not yet left my driveway and the right rear
> shock leaks
> around the shaft...is it a bad rebuild or should I have exercised
> it before
> now?? Any feedback on this?? Just lookin' for a little
> help....thanks!!
> Jack
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 16:50:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
> In a message dated 8/22/02 5:41:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> cd3000@bigpond.net.au writes:
>
>
> > Ok Michael,
> >
> > Time to come clean! So what are you planning on buying????
>
> C'mon Chris--I'm just taking a survey.
>
> Best--Michael
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 17:27:19 -0400
Subject: Fuel Fill Tube and rebuilt rear shocks
> Hi All, I'm just about ready to put the 'ol BT7 Mk2 (of which I'm the
original
> owner) back on the road after a two decade restoration. Some little
details
> escape my failing mind...the little flange around the top of the gas fill
> neck...does this sit atop the rubber grommet or is it embedded inside the
> grommet.
The flange sits on top of the rubber grommet. Fit the grommet into the
opening, then slide the tube in from above.
Also, has anyone had bad experiences with Apple rebuilt
> shocks??
Can't help with the shocks, no experience with Apple. I have used Russ
Bamsey's (Shock Doc) excellent rebuilt shocks (he's reading this on this
list no doubt)<grin> and highly recommend him.
Rich Chrysler
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 18:22:44 EDT
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
Richard
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 17:32:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Fill Tube and rebuilt rear shocks
Mark
--
> Hi All, I'm just about ready to put the 'ol BT7 Mk2 (of which I'm the
original
> owner) back on the road after a two decade restoration. Some little
details
> escape my failing mind...the little flange around the top of the gas fill
> neck...does this sit atop the rubber grommet or is it embedded inside the
> grommet. Can't find any evidence of a recess for the latter, but this is
a
> new grommet from a well known west coast supplier so it may or may not be
> correctly reproduced. Also, has anyone had bad experiences with Apple
rebuilt
> shocks?? I bought the rears about 1997 but just installed them a few
weeks
> ago. The car has not yet left my driveway and the right rear shock leaks
> around the shaft...is it a bad rebuild or should I have exercised it
before
> now?? Any feedback on this?? Just lookin' for a little
> help....thanks!!
> Jack
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 18:32:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
> richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
> << Just as an example, of the 5 cars winning Gold at Tahoe this year, 2
> were
> Canadian cars. >>
> Yup, and two were Colorado cars...Maybe it is just the altitude
> <grin>
>
> Richard
Or maybe it's because Rich Chrysler is from Canada and Roger Moment from
Colorado and they are both keenly interested in Concours and supportive of
the efforts of others?
Duh--Michael Oritt
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 02:14:21 +0000
Subject: bullet connectors
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>;
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 22:48:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
> richchrysler@quickclic.net writes:
> << Just as an example, of the 5 cars winning Gold at Tahoe this year, 2
were
> Canadian cars. >>
> Yup, and two were Colorado cars...Maybe it is just the altitude
> <grin>
>
> Richard
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>;
Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 21:00:53 -0700
Subject: RE: bullet connectors
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of fawcett1187@attbi.com
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2002 7:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: bullet connectors
Listers,
I'm looking for a local(Los Angeles) source for solder
type Lucas electrical bullet connectors. I am putting
the final touches to my restoration and I need to finish
connecting the tail lights and other electrics. Thanks
in advance.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>;
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 05:50:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
Anyway, the real problem came when I tried to register the car. First they
did not like the fact that I did not have a smog certificate, then after a
half an hour of discussion, they let me register and title the cars. About
two weeks later I received a letter from some supervisor saying the car was
illegal. I was missing some form that Customs should have provided but
didn't according to the DMV. Customs said the DMV was wrong, I had all the
paper I needed. That took about a week to resolve as I educated the
supervisor on what an Austin Healey is and why it too old to have to comply
with today's laws. I finally got it registered and it is being restored
slowly.
The biggest problem is educating the folks who never see an imported car and
have no idea what the laws say or why.
My suggestion is to read the regulations and contact the DMV to get their
interpretation of what is required. Make sure you have the papers they
require and work through the process with some sense of humor. I found that
having the Motor Heritage certificate helped both the DMV and Customs staff
understand what they were looking at, the original title and a clear bill of
sale all help get the Healey across the boarder. I elected to leave early in
the morning before traffic built up at the boarder so I had plenty of time to
kill before they got busy with other things. It was cold outside and they did
not even go out to look at the car -- they looked through the window.
Good luck.
John
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>;
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 08:37:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Viruses - Not Healey Related
I've learned that no matter what, even with two levels of virus
protection, if you don't recognize the subject or sender, delete is the only
way to go.
Reinforcing comments made by others in the past, I'm sure the list is as
safe as it can be - BUT - and that's a big but, nothing in cyber-space is
100% secure - if someone nasty wants to mess with the list, then somehow
they will find a way.
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <HealeyHundred@aol.com>
To: <richchrysler@quickclic.net>; <Awgertoo@aol.com>;
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 08:47:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
I hear Kemecki retired down your way.
Wanna Race??
CB
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 07:50:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
> OK, so please update all of us as to what vehicles you may be driving
> now!!
>
> I hear Kemecki retired down your way.
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 11:42:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Fill Tube and rebuilt rear shocks
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 13:11:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
> as
> Michael pointed out a 54 AH100 which doubles as my shop truck
False humility is but pride!
That is SOME shop truck...
Best--Michael
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From Doug Miller <enginem at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 09:58:10 -0700
Subject: Re:Timing Chain Installation-4 Cylinder Healey
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 16:21:20 -0400
Subject: Importing a military officer from Canada; was: importing a car
I'm sure this will all work out eventually, but if it wasn't so aggravating it
would be funny.
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Stella67@aol.com
To: dougi@shaw.ca ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 5:50 AM
Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
Importing a car from Canada to the US, especially a car from the 50s and 60s
can be interesting. I imported a BN7 from the Toronto area. Getting the car
across the board was not a problem once I got to someone who was old enough
to understand that cars really were built in the 60s. The first person I
met
at US Customs was a young man who wanted to see my certificate from the
Factory regarding its compliance with US laws. The next thing he wanted to
see was my registration. We had an interesting conversation for about 15
minutes when I was rescued by a woman who looked like she was the first
Customs agent to arrive at the Boards in the late 1700s. She told the young
man to find a seat, asked me about the car, filled out an import document
and
didn't charge me any duty (antique cars are supposed to be duty free).
Anyway, the real problem came when I tried to register the car. First they
did not like the fact that I did not have a smog certificate, then after a
half an hour of discussion, they let me register and title the cars. About
two weeks later I received a letter from some supervisor saying the car was
illegal. I was missing some form that Customs should have provided but
didn't according to the DMV. Customs said the DMV was wrong, I had all the
paper I needed. That took about a week to resolve as I educated the
supervisor on what an Austin Healey is and why it too old to have to comply
with today's laws. I finally got it registered and it is being restored
slowly.
The biggest problem is educating the folks who never see an imported car and
have no idea what the laws say or why.
My suggestion is to read the regulations and contact the DMV to get their
interpretation of what is required. Make sure you have the papers they
require and work through the process with some sense of humor. I found that
having the Motor Heritage certificate helped both the DMV and Customs staff
understand what they were looking at, the original title and a clear bill of
sale all help get the Healey across the boarder. I elected to leave early
in
the morning before traffic built up at the boarder so I had plenty of time
to
kill before they got busy with other things. It was cold outside and they
did
not even go out to look at the car -- they looked through the window.
Good luck.
John
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From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 14:10:21 -0700
Subject: Pics from Monterey Races
For those who may be interested I finally got around to posting the
pics I took last Saturday from the Pits at the Monterey Historic
Races .. including the one and only Austin Healey that raced and put
on a great show! (thanks Dan).
(the site I posted to is notorious for limiting the traffic so my
apologies in advance if you have trouble - persistence).
The pictures don't do the sensations of the rumble of engines and the
wiff of avgas justice.
Here is the URL:
http://homepage.mac.com/rohanmarr/
Rohan
--
*******************************
Rohan Marr
('57 Longbridge BN4-O/28579)
aka 'Helouise'
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 15:15:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pics from Monterey Races
We were there and I didn't see half the things you
shot!
Someome should take my camera away. I'm not
qualified.
Dean BN7
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 20:26:16 -0500
Subject: Importing a box of Cherrios was Importing a military officer
Steve Byers wrote:
> This reminds me of a situation that occurred at work today.
> I work with an officer from the Canadian military who is with us as an
> exchange officer for a three-year tour (the 17th in a long line of them going
> back to the '70s). He arrived in July, and now has North Carolina plates on
> his car and insurance for it in North Carolina. His Ontario drivers license
> is expiring, so he applied for a N.C. license. No can do, the DMV said ---
> you got to have a Social Security Number.
> He tried to get an SSN, but he doesn't pay taxes in this country so he can't
> get one. Back to the DMV: sorry, our hands are tied without an SSN. It
> appears that N.C. implemented a requirement for an SSN to get a license about
> the same time that the Social Security Administration quit issuing them just
> for licensing purposes.
>
> I'm sure this will all work out eventually, but if it wasn't so aggravating it
> would be funny.
>
> Steve Byers
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stella67@aol.com
> To: dougi@shaw.ca ; healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 5:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
>
> Importing a car from Canada to the US, especially a car from the 50s and 60s
> can be interesting. I imported a BN7 from the Toronto area. Getting the car
> across the board was not a problem once I got to someone who was old enough
> to understand that cars really were built in the 60s. The first person I
> met
> at US Customs was a young man who wanted to see my certificate from the
> Factory regarding its compliance with US laws. The next thing he wanted to
> see was my registration. We had an interesting conversation for about 15
> minutes when I was rescued by a woman who looked like she was the first
> Customs agent to arrive at the Boards in the late 1700s. She told the young
> man to find a seat, asked me about the car, filled out an import document
> and
> didn't charge me any duty (antique cars are supposed to be duty free).
>
> Anyway, the real problem came when I tried to register the car. First they
> did not like the fact that I did not have a smog certificate, then after a
> half an hour of discussion, they let me register and title the cars. About
> two weeks later I received a letter from some supervisor saying the car was
> illegal. I was missing some form that Customs should have provided but
> didn't according to the DMV. Customs said the DMV was wrong, I had all the
> paper I needed. That took about a week to resolve as I educated the
> supervisor on what an Austin Healey is and why it too old to have to comply
> with today's laws. I finally got it registered and it is being restored
> slowly.
>
> The biggest problem is educating the folks who never see an imported car and
> have no idea what the laws say or why.
>
> My suggestion is to read the regulations and contact the DMV to get their
> interpretation of what is required. Make sure you have the papers they
> require and work through the process with some sense of humor. I found that
> having the Motor Heritage certificate helped both the DMV and Customs staff
> understand what they were looking at, the original title and a clear bill of
> sale all help get the Healey across the boarder. I elected to leave early
> in
> the morning before traffic built up at the boarder so I had plenty of time
> to
> kill before they got busy with other things. It was cold outside and they
> did
> not even go out to look at the car -- they looked through the window.
>
> Good luck.
>
> John
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 15:07:37 -0400
Subject: BJ8 For Sale in South Carolina
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: HButler50@aol.com
To: byers@cconnect.net
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: MY BJ8 AUSTIN HEALEY
STEVE, MY NAME IS HARRY BUTLER. I LIVE IN GEORGETOWN, SC AND OWN A 1967 3000
WHICH IS VID# HBJ8L40826. IT HAS BEEN BODY OFF PROFESSIONALLY RESTORED IN 1995
FOR ME IN ATLANTA. AT THAT TIME IT HAD 26000 ORIGINAL MILES AND NOW HAS JUST
OVER 28000MI. I WOULD LIKE FOR YOU TO INCLUDE IT IN YOUR REGISTRY. IT IS THE
ORIGINAL COLORS OF OLD ENGLISH WHITE WITH RED INTERIOR AND SILVER PIPING. CAR
IS TOTALLY DETAILED INCLUDING ENGINE BAY AND TRUNK. ALL BACK TO ORIGINAL
CONDITION. CAR HAS ELECTRIC OVERDRIVE. DUE TO ANOTHER PURCHASE I AM SELLING
IT. IT IS CURRENTLY IN SC BUT I WILL SOON BE TAKING IT TO PROGRESSIVE MOTORS
IN POMPANO BEACH, FLA. ON CONSIGNMENT TO BE SOLD FOR ME. CAR HAS NO RUST AND I
AM ASKING $34,500., WHICH IS LESS THAN I HAVE IN IT. NO DINGS OR DENTS, CAR IS
PERFECT. IF YOU KNOW OF ANYONE WHO WOULD BE INTERESTED I WOULD APPRECIATE YOUR
LETTING THEM KNOW ABOUT IT. THANKS HARRY BUTLER. 843/527-0805.
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 14:12:28 -0700
Subject: Need Help In Wisconsin!
My friend Lisa has owned Morris Minors for years and presently has a
beautiful 1967 convertible, BRG/tan trim. wire wheels/front discs etc. She
recently moved from Seatle, WA to Wisconsin and needs to find a good
mechanic who knows Morrises, Knows British cars??? Knows how to spell
Morris???
Contact Lisa directly below please if you have any recomendation of merit.
Thank You,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
>>>>> ORIGINAL MESSAGE <<<<<<<-------------------
We live in Milwaukee WI, which includes the sububerban areas of Wauwatosa,
Mequon, Shorewood, River Hills, West Allis, Franklin, Waukesha, Brookfield,
Cederburg, Glendale, Pewaukee, Oconomowoc. The car is in Fond du Lac County
at my mom's, 60 miles north of Mil. WE may have the car in Mil. On day. But
for now, I have free garage in FDL.
I would love to find a Morris mechanic, as Karl rigged up something on the
firewall to controll the coil from burning out the points, and now I hear
the amplified vibration of the engine whenever I step on the gas.
"Lisa Johnson" <lisadesign@qwest.net>
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 18:45:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Pics from Monterey Races
Yes, it's the Ford GT Mk IV and appears to be the one Dan Gurney/AJ Foyt
drove to the '67 Le Mans victory. The door bubble is for Dan's extra height.
GM
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 16:23:58 -0700
Subject: PCV followup
There seem to be a lot of inline PCVs that will work. Look for one with a
3/8" tubing fitting on one side and 1/2" on the other. There should be a
flat metal surface visible inside the 1/2" end--that means the other end is
the vacuum end, which goes toward the manifold. The 1/2" end goes toward the
tee in the valve cover. The rear air cleaner hose inlet then gets plugged.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 20:28:53 -0500
Subject: Healey 100M in the east bay
Paul, please contact me offline.
Thanks.
Bob Denton
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From "coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 18:26:10 -0700
Subject: A couple dozen more Monterey Historic cars
http://community.webshots.com/album/48145545jODRnS
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From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 22:25:55 -0400
Subject: Spare tire tray
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 20:16:59 -0700
Subject: RE: fender and wheel arch
Best Wishes,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 23:59:32 -0700
Subject: Ignition switch and MORE
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 07:03:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: back fire up the carbs
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 09:20:28 -0700
Subject: RE: back fire up the carbs
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
> I just installed the ignitor "hall effect"
> system in my dist. and a 40,000 volt Lucas sport coil
> in my BJ8 and the car runs much smoother. I have this
> problem of a back fire up the carbs once and a while.
> The car has a totally rebuilt head, new lifters, etc.
> Where do I put the timing with this ignition? Should I
> retard it a bit? The back fire occurred with the
> points and old 25,000volt coil as well. Any ideas? Thanks
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From "Andy Phillips" <andyp at cylogix.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 12:40:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey 100M in the east bay x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Do you have a picture?
Thanks,
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group
To: List, Healey
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 9:28 PM
Subject: Healey 100M in the east bay x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Today, in Emeryville, California, I saw the most beautiful 100M and
guess what? It belongs to one of our little group here. Paul Schwartz of
Orinda, CA. It was truly the most beautiful M I've ever seen.
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 13:01:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
Dave,
Not to start a Big Healey vs. Bugeye war, and I know it's like comparing
apples to oranges, but which do you like better? Which do you drive more?
The reason for my question is that I have a '56 BN-2 that I've owned since
1974. I bought it to restore it, but I put it off as a house, a marriage,
3 kids,
and now college keep it on the back burner.
I've always liked the Bugeye (had a '65 Sprite), and now I'm thinking I could
sell the non-running BN-2 and pick up a running Bugeye. It would be for sunny
days and auto-crossing.
Do you think I'd regret it?
Just fishing for an opinion,
Kent
'56 100 BN-2, Bugeye wannabe
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 10:51:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey 100M in the east bay
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Phillips" <andyp@cylogix.com>
To: "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>; "List,
Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: Healey 100M in the east bay x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>>
> Do you have a picture?
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: R. Denton, Auburn Design Group
> To: List, Healey
> Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 9:28 PM
> Subject: Healey 100M in the east bay x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
>
>
> Today, in Emeryville, California, I saw the most beautiful 100M and
> guess what? It belongs to one of our little group here. Paul Schwartz of
> Orinda, CA. It was truly the most beautiful M I've ever seen.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 12:35:26 -0700
Subject: rally computers
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 12:39:57 -0700
Subject: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
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From Doug Ingram <dougi at shaw.ca>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 13:36:34 -0700
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
Any reason not to go with vehicle mounted CB radios? You will certainly get
your best results that way. My experience is that any hand held unit will
not be as good. Enroute to Tahoe, our tour included two who had gone to some
expense with hand held CB radios, and even with car mounted auxiliary
antennas, they were not as good as a simple car mount unit like my
inexpensive Uniden radio.
Whatever you use, it is important to have the antenna tuned for best
performance.
Doug Ingram
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "List, E Type" <e-type@jag-lovers.org>; "List, Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 12:39 PM
Subject: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
> Listers:
> On several of our recent trips with others we have used the small hand
held Motorola T5100 walkie talkies.
> bad sound quality and no range. If the other car was a mile down the road
we often could not raise it even if we could see it.
> Anyone using a unit that they are pleased with its range and quality?
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E FHC
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 16:26:44 -0500
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
We too went through several Motorola units and none of them worked very
well. Switched to Kenwood TK-3100's and they are great. They cost a little
more but actually work better than spec. Two watt UHF, Two channel, drop in
charger and ni-cad battery. They are GMRS not FRS and technically need an
FCC license. The only requirement for the FCC is that you are a citizen of
the US, over 18 and have about $35.00.
Mark
Nashville BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "List, E Type" <e-type@jag-lovers.org>; "List, Healey"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 2:39 PM
Subject: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
Listers:
On several of our recent trips with others we have used the small hand held
Motorola T5100 walkie talkies.
bad sound quality and no range. If the other car was a mile down the road
we often could not raise it even if we could see it.
Anyone using a unit that they are pleased with its range and quality?
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
1967 E FHC
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:20:53 -0400
Subject: RE: rally computers
Don was very helpful and obliging and although I have yet to use it in
anger the Pro 2 sure looks like the ticket.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: 25-Aug-02 3:35 PM
To: List, Healey
Subject: rally computers
can some one point me to a source of rally computers?
I have not done this in 30 years. all I can remember is the Halda speed
pilot pepper mill.
My XJ6 has this computer built in but I assume that it is not very
transportable to the E.
Ron R
1967 FHC
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From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:15:30 -0400
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
John May
Mark Endicott wrote:
> Ron,
>
> We too went through several Motorola units and none of them worked very
> well. Switched to Kenwood TK-3100's and they are great. They cost a little
> more but actually work better than spec. Two watt UHF, Two channel, drop in
> charger and ni-cad battery. They are GMRS not FRS and technically need an
> FCC license. The only requirement for the FCC is that you are a citizen of
> the US, over 18 and have about $35.00.
>
> Mark
> Nashville BN1
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> To: "List, E Type" <e-type@jag-lovers.org>; "List, Healey"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 2:39 PM
> Subject: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
>
> Listers:
> On several of our recent trips with others we have used the small hand held
> Motorola T5100 walkie talkies.
> bad sound quality and no range. If the other car was a mile down the road
> we often could not raise it even if we could see it.
> Anyone using a unit that they are pleased with its range and quality?
> Ron Rader
> 1965 BJ8
> 1967 E FHC
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 00:52:16 +0100
Subject: Lots more images added to the UK AH50 event galleries
I've now had a chance to put together most of the remaining images taken
during the AH50 event here in the UK. All done in rather a hurry, but I
hope to improve it over the coming couple of weeks, including the
addition of images emailed to me by other participants. The images now
number 470 in all, across 15 separate galleries. Hope you enjoy!
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 19:50:26 -0400
Subject: RE: rally computers
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ron Rader
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 3:35 PM
To: List, Healey
Subject: rally computers
can some one point me to a source of rally computers?
I have not done this in 30 years. all I can remember is the Halda speed
pilot pepper mill.
My XJ6 has this computer built in but I assume that it is not very
transportable to the E.
Ron R
1967 FHC
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 00:58:45 +0100
Subject: Accessing the UK AH50 galleries
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 16:59:56 -0700
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
As another poster said, you probably want a pair GMRS handhelds. They
require a 'license' which is little more than filling out a form --
not the technical questions like a ham license requires. I think you
have to wait for the FCC to mail your license to you also. They have
better power (5 watts vs 1/2 watt) and better electronics than the FRS
handhelds do, and possibly more efficient antennas, too. Any sort of
line of sight communications should be fine and a bit more.
CB is pretty good, depending on the sunspot cycle (you may find it
easier at times to speak to someone in Japan than another driver just
down the road ). SSB (single sideband) CB is better than AM CB but
the equipment is a little more expensive and finicky.
If you are really serious about having good communications over dozens
of miles, you need amateur radio Technician Class licenses so you can
operate on 2 meters or one of the other VHF/UHF ham bands. No Morse
Code required, but you do have to study up for a multiple choice test
using a book with all the questions and answers in it. You can use
repeaters to link up over hundreds of miles and talk car to car
directly over quite a few miles, and run 100 watts or even 1000 watts
if you are crazy enough to want to (it doesn't help your receiver).
You have several ham bands to use and many repeaters open to visitor
use all over the state, country, and world. The equipment is a little
more expensive than GMRS, but gives you more options, too. The only
drawback is that the person you are speaking with also needs a
license. to reply.
-Roland
amateur radio licensee WI6B
BN1 in recovery, BJ7 driver
On Sun, 25 Aug 2002 12:39:57 -0700, Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net>
wrote:
:: Listers:
:: On several of our recent trips with others we have used the small hand held
:Motorola T5100 walkie talkies.
:: bad sound quality and no range. If the other car was a mile down the road
:we often could not raise it even if we could see it.
:: Anyone using a unit that they are pleased with its range and quality?
:: Ron Rader
:: 1965 BJ8
:: 1967 E FHC
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 20:31:54 EDT
Subject: BJ7 For Sale
It is a 1963 Austin Healey 3000 Mk. II BJ7. Red with Black Interior. Have
owned for 10 years and never Failed To Start. New Dunlop SP 20 Tires 165 x 15
(less than 100 miles) Heavy Duty 60 Spoke Dayton Wire Wheels (Mounted, trued,
shaved, and balanced by Hendrix Wire Wheel) New King Pins, New Front Hubs,
Spin-On Oil Filter Rebuilt Brakes, Lines Replaced.
It is a very solid car. I've known the current and previous owners for 25
years. It was always used as an occasional car and never suffered the ill
effects of rust and storage. The car is rust free and solid.
It does have fiberglass Front Fenders and Shroud, a common practice from the
seventies when the car was last painted. First gear makes a bit of noise but
has been the same for the last ten years.
A very nice driver. The asking price is $15,000 or best offer. I have photos
on a web page at http://hometown.aol.com/bgahc/jwha_bowersbj7.html. Please
contact me for more information.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 20:22:18 -0500
Subject: No Healey Content: Congratulations to Louisville Little League
Don
BN7
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From dcorning at comcast.net
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 20:15:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey sighting
I was exactly where you are about 2 years ago. I have a 62 BT7 that is
(still) in a million pieces. I came to the realization that if I expect to
drive a LBC anytime soon, I needed to buy a nice car ready to go. I really
wanted another 3000 but the price was too high if I was going to pay for the
current restoration and put the kids through college it had to be less cash.
I decided to get a Bugeye and it has fit the bill exactly!
The big healeys are more capable of getting up and running with highway
traffic than my Bugeye. However, from my point of view, you lose absolutely
nothing in driving enjoyment around town and on secondary roads with the
Bugeye. Let's face it... The 3000's are graceful classic beauty's but the
Bugeye has it beat hands down in the "cute" department. Whenever I drive it
anywhere I can expect smiles, waves, laughing, pointing, thumbs in the air
and lots of questions.
There are two types of reactions I get with the Bugeye: 1) OHMYGOSH!!
LOOK AT THAT!! WHAT KIND OF CAR IS THAT?? IT'S SOOOO CUTE!!! 2) (Usually
the 50 and up group) Hey! That's a beautiful Bugeye! You know I used to
have one of those 20 years ago! I haven't seen one in YEARS!!
I say go for the Bugeye! (Get ready to watch out for those giant looking VW
bugs though. Those things are really big looking when your butt's 2" from
the ground)
----------------------------------------------------
> Not to start a Big Healey vs. Bugeye war, and I know it's like comparing
> apples to oranges, but which do you like better? Which do you drive more?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Charley Braum" <cbaustin@sgi.net>
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:34:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Importing a box of Cherrios was Importing a military
;-)
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group"
<foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
> We bought a box of Cherrios in Northern Onterio in
> mid June of 1968 and then
> drove down to the U.S. border at Windsor, Ontario.
> We ate most of the Cheerios in
> the car but declared the empty box anyway. Since we
> properly declared it, there
> was no duty. Strange, huh?
>
> Steve Byers wrote:
>
> > This reminds me of a situation that occurred at
> work today.
> > I work with an officer from the Canadian military
> who is with us as an
> > exchange officer for a three-year tour (the 17th
> in a long line of them going
> > back to the '70s). He arrived in July, and now
> has North Carolina plates on
> > his car and insurance for it in North Carolina.
> His Ontario drivers license
> > is expiring, so he applied for a N.C. license. No
> can do, the DMV said ---
> > you got to have a Social Security Number.
> > He tried to get an SSN, but he doesn't pay taxes
> in this country so he can't
> > get one. Back to the DMV: sorry, our hands are
> tied without an SSN. It
> > appears that N.C. implemented a requirement for an
> SSN to get a license about
> > the same time that the Social Security
> Administration quit issuing them just
> > for licensing purposes.
> >
> > I'm sure this will all work out eventually, but if
> it wasn't so aggravating it
> > would be funny.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > Havelock, NC USA
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Stella67@aol.com
> > To: dougi@shaw.ca ; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 5:50 AM
> > Subject: Re: Importing a car from Canada
> >
> > Importing a car from Canada to the US,
> especially a car from the 50s and 60s
> > can be interesting. I imported a BN7 from the
> Toronto area. Getting the car
> > across the board was not a problem once I got to
> someone who was old enough
> > to understand that cars really were built in the
> 60s. The first person I
> > met
> > at US Customs was a young man who wanted to see
> my certificate from the
> > Factory regarding its compliance with US laws.
> The next thing he wanted to
> > see was my registration. We had an interesting
> conversation for about 15
> > minutes when I was rescued by a woman who looked
> like she was the first
> > Customs agent to arrive at the Boards in the
> late 1700s. She told the young
> > man to find a seat, asked me about the car,
> filled out an import document
> > and
> > didn't charge me any duty (antique cars are
> supposed to be duty free).
> >
> > Anyway, the real problem came when I tried to
> register the car. First they
> > did not like the fact that I did not have a smog
> certificate, then after a
> > half an hour of discussion, they let me register
> and title the cars. About
> > two weeks later I received a letter from some
> supervisor saying the car was
> > illegal. I was missing some form that Customs
> should have provided but
> > didn't according to the DMV. Customs said the
> DMV was wrong, I had all the
> > paper I needed. That took about a week to
> resolve as I educated the
> > supervisor on what an Austin Healey is and why
> it too old to have to comply
> > with today's laws. I finally got it registered
> and it is being restored
> > slowly.
> >
> > The biggest problem is educating the folks who
> never see an imported car and
> > have no idea what the laws say or why.
> >
> > My suggestion is to read the regulations and
> contact the DMV to get their
> > interpretation of what is required. Make sure
> you have the papers they
> > require and work through the process with some
> sense of humor. I found that
> > having the Motor Heritage certificate helped
> both the DMV and Customs staff
> > understand what they were looking at, the
> original title and a clear bill of
> > sale all help get the Healey across the boarder.
> I elected to leave early
> > in
> > the morning before traffic built up at the
> boarder so I had plenty of time
> > to
> > kill before they got busy with other things. It
> was cold outside and they
> > did
> > not even go out to look at the car -- they
> looked through the window.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > John
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Marty Filardi"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 21:41:43 -0400
Subject: back fire up the carbs
> I just installed the ignitor "hall effect"
> system in my dist. and a 40,000 volt Lucas sport coil
> in my BJ8 and the car runs much smoother. I have this
> problem of a back fire up the carbs once and a while.
> The car has a totally rebuilt head, new lifters, etc.
> Where do I put the timing with this ignition? Should I
> retard it a bit? The back fire occurred with the
> points and old 25,000volt coil as well. Any ideas? Thanks
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
BJ8's are notorious for spitting back through the carb s when they a re too
lean. Just to prove it out pull the choke out while it is prone to
backfiring and note the difference. Normally BJ8's will need at least some
choke until they are fully warmed up.
Rich Chrysler
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: "Marty Filardi"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:47:23 -0700
Subject: Re:WAS: fender and wheel arch
John Snyder
> found 7 more fenders in stock and placing them side by side I realized
that
> each part was obviously different. The contour along the top where it
bolts
> to the shroud changed as much as an inch. The distance from front of arch
to
> shut pillar 2 inches. The angle of the shut pillar varied as much as an
> inch. Some had extra bends, one had drill holes for the shroud. The wheel
> arches had problems too. Some were missing the second divot towards the
> seat. The big problem was that out of eight left and right arches, six
were
> mis-labeled as the right-for-left, etc. I don't blame Moss for the
problem,
> these parts were marked incorrectly from SC parts.
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Marty Filardi"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 19:02:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: back fire up the carbs
Glad to hear your car is running better. You are
getting "backfiring up the carbs" because you either:
1) Don't have oil in your carb dashpots
2) have the wrong oil in your carb dashpots
You get this symptom typically upon applying throttle
because the dashpot piston lifts too quickly and the
fuel mixture weakens out too fast and "hiccups". You
need to have oil in the dashpots to slow the rise of
the dashpot pistons so that the higher velocity air
(in the restricted venturi which the dashpot forms the
top half) pulls more fuel into the mixture, making a
richer mixture, allowing you to get the power you need
to accelerate.
You should either use SU/Penrite carb oil you can get
from any british car parts supplier or you can
alternatively use straight 20 weight motor oil - but
you should eventually get Penrite Carb oil because it
is formulated correctly for the application.
If you do have oil in the dashpots, then it may be the
following:
1) you have the wrong dashpot pistons or springs on
the carbs
2) Your dashpot Damper is broken (the little thing
that screws in the top of the carb) - are the rods
coming up through the plastic caps? This is known to
happen in BJ8s. If this is the case, replace the
dampers.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Marty Filardi <marty_filardi@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I just installed the ignitor "hall effect"
> system in my dist. and a 40,000 volt Lucas sport
> coil
> in my BJ8 and the car runs much smoother. I have
> this
> problem of a back fire up the carbs once and a
> while.
> The car has a totally rebuilt head, new lifters,
> etc.
> Where do I put the timing with this ignition? Should
> I
> retard it a bit? The back fire occurred with the
> points and old 25,000volt coil as well. Any ideas?
> Thanks
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
> http://finance.yahoo.com
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 22:12:35 -0400
Subject: Spare tire tray
> I am getting to the point in the rebuild of the basket case 100-4 that I
> bought a year ago that I need to start thinking about wheels and tires.
> Out of curiosity I slid a 5.50/5.90 Dunlop Road Speed tire on a 48 spoke
> wheel, as it came with the car, into the tray. After I shoved it in as
> far as it would go, only about 3" of it protruded into the space behind
> the seat with about 12" sticking out into the boot. Is this the way it
> should be? From photographs that I have seen, it seems that it should
> go in farther than that. By the way there is no liner in the tray.
>
> The width of the tire is 6 1/4". I then measured the width of a Dunlop
> 165 SR 15 on my MG to be 6 3/4" which tells me that it probably won't go
> in as far as the old tire. This is the size tire that I had thought
> would use on the Healey with 60 spoke wheels but I am having some
> doubts. Any thoughts?
>
> Gene
I have checked out the dimensions regarding the fitting of the tire into the
aperture and have come up with the following:
Width of tire opening through bulkhead approx. 25 3/4", height of opening
approx. 6 1/4". Total width of tire "shelf " area behind opening approx. 27
3/8".
Something else which would affect the tire positioning here would be the
wedge block which is positioned on the right rear wheel arch just into the
tire opening. This trimmed out wedge shaped block limits the distance the
tire can go into the interior of the car, and acts as an anchor to help hold
the tire sleeve against the right wheel arch, helping to take the load as
the tire is pushed forward into position. The block sits vertically with a
total height of 5 1/8 ', a width of 2 5/8 ' and a thickness at the front
edge (closest to front of car) is 1 1/4". It is held in this position by 3
wood screws that pass through the wheel arch and screw into the wood block.
Finally, checking the tire sleeve itself, it seems that this sleeve is
trimmed to allow the tire to protrude about 9" into the interior of the car.
Hope this info helps.
Rich Chrysler
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From "guymark.studios" <guymark.studios at snet.net>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:25:37 -0700
Subject: starting
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From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at justice.com>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 07:47:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Are this the original tools for an Austin Healey MK III ?
I just bought some tools to complete the toolkit for my
Austin Healey 3000 MK III Phase 1 (HBJ8L 25.321). Now I
am not sure, wheter this are the correct genuine parts
or not.
Please watch the items at <a
href="http://mail.justice.com//jump/http://195.58.186.40/healey";>http://195.58.186.40/healey</a>/
and tell me about your opinion. Please notice that
these tools are for a car with steel rims, for wire
wheels with knock offs there would have to be a Thor
hammer.
Does anyone have an original toolkit (unimportant witch
rims the car have) and can you send a picture of it?
happy healeying,
Martin
<a
href="http://mail.justice.com//jump/http://www.FindLaw.com";>http://www.FindLaw.com</a>
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
<a
href="http://mail.justice.com//jump/http://mail.Justice.com";>http://mail.Justice.com</a>
------- End of forwarded message -------
Get your FREE @JUSTICE.COM email!
http://mail.Justice.com
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From "allen s hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 10:15:21 -0500
Subject: rear springs for HBJ8L35791
Al
HBJ8L35791
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 11:11:11 -0400
Subject: Looking for driving lights
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 11:48:46 EDT
Subject: Re: rear springs for HBJ8L35791
Bill 59 BN4 in 53rd week of 12 week restoration
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 08:57:03 -0700
Subject: DMD Speed equipment question
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:16:53 -0700
Subject: Re: rear springs for HBJ8L35791
Part of your story matches the instructions for fitting up new springs
(needing to straighten them out in order to install them) and wouldn't
worry me much. However, jacking up the whole rear of the car instead
of compressing the spring is something that I also found with my BN1
and new springs for it from Moss (different part number and minor
differences from yours). It bothered me, but the car was a chassis
with shrouds and lighter than when ready for the road. I was able to
move the axle up very slightly with 300# of sand in the boot (great
minds think alike?) , but am wondering what is going to happen when
the car is together and on the road. Will it ride on the rebound
pads?
I am hoping that the axle is being held more by friction than by
spring pressure, and that after a few awkward moments the rear end
will settle into a more normal attitude. But I don't know that will
happen. I am glad you brought up this issue and will be interested to
read all responses. I don't believe it is just you or just your pair
of springs.
-Roland
On Mon, 26 Aug 2002 10:15:21 -0500, "allen s hodder"
<ash173@frontiernet.net> wrote:
:: After putting the rear axle in the car, I put my new rear springs from Moss
:: (#021-583) on the car. First I connected the front of the springs to the
:: bracket. The springs had such an arch to them, that I had to use a chain and
:: hydraulic jack to "straighten" them out enough so that I could attach the
:rear
:: of the springs to the rear bracket. Then I attached the ubolts, plates, pads.
:: Again the rear springs had too much of an arch to them to go on easily. I had
:: to use chains and the hydraulic jack to accomplish this. Then I put on the
:: shock absorbers, only to find out that my rear axle is about 1/4 of an inch
:: too far to the r/h side. One more time, the rear springs have such an arch to
:: them, that the rear axle is compressed on the rebound buffers. Jacking up the
:: rear axle (hydraulic jacks on wheels, under each rear brake drum) lifts the
:: whole car off of the jack stands. I even filled feed sacks with sand and put
:: them on the rear of the floor panels (about 400 lbs.). I am not able to move
:: the axle, it's still on the buffers. Did I do anything wrong here? I can't
:: imagine running the car with the axle on the frame. I checked the archives,
:: but they didn't help. Has anyone else had this problem?
::
:: Al
:: HBJ8L35791
::
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From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 12:30:17 -0400
Subject: RE: rear springs for HBJ8L35791
I saved this email from a while back which gives some numbers regarding the
proper specifications. However, I'm ALSO having the same problem, so maybe
the original numbers were wrong as well??
I've heard that using modern spring materials results in a much stiffer
spring, therefore removing one leaf might "loosen" things enough to fix the
problem. I have not tried this yet.
Regards,
Ross.
'64 BJ8 (phase I)
~~~~
John and Simon thanks for the info on the springs.
Looks like my early BT7 #12 has 100-6 front springs (12" long instead of
11-13/16") and very poor rear ones.
The rear springs should be, from John's NOS measurements, 35-1/8" eye to
eye, 4-1/8" to lower leaf and 5-1/2" to upper leaf (measured with the spring
upside down on the bench) mine are....<remainder deleted>
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 09:49:32 -0700
Subject: fender bender to frame off resto
A familiar story, little plans to big, I'm sure some can relate. I was
backed into by a SUV at a light. Insurance is paying for the repairs to
the front shroud, fender, etc. The extent of the damage means that half
of the car gets repainted BUT since the rest of the paint is old I think
it's a good time for a complete repaint. Also a good time to change the
color because I've had that on my mind. So at this point the front
shroud is off, the interior is stripped, the wings are off, the doors
off and the engine/gearbox is coming out. The excellent news is the car
is rust free so I'm looking at a straightforward repaint. BUT, I'm so
close to total disassembly that I think I should go all the way so that
the frame/super structure gets repainted. I figure the front suspension,
rear shroud, rear end, gas tank, brake lines and wiring harness will
need to be removed. But what about the frame/super structure assembly?
Since they are welded together is it common practice to keep them that
way and refinish as one unit? Can it be refinished by tipping up on one
side or turning over on supports to get good coverage on the bottom?
Sorry if these are newby questions .. uncharted territory and all that.
Cheers,
John
BJ7
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 11:33:09 -0600
Subject: Re: rear springs for HBJ8L35791
I had a similar problem with my 1956 BN2. The previous owner had put
"what? I don't know" rear springs on. They were so stiff that I could
not deflect them off of the rebound buffers with several hundred pounds
of extra weight. Obviously it rode like a solid mount axle, really awful.
The shop manual shows a seven leaf spring for my car. (Yours is
different). My springs were only six leaf & should have been softer than
the shop manual springs. Anyway, I took it to a spring shop & checked
for frozen shackles, pivots, binding spring leaves & such, nothing
wrong. They removed one long spring leaf, five leaves now. (Just putting
less arch in the springs would have lowered the ride height but they
would still be too stiff.) The car settled about one half inch with the
modified springs & could be deflected about one half inch with a 300
pound push on the rear bumper. As a comparison, the front will deflect
about two inches with the same push.
It still rides like it has no springs & tops out against the frame
rebound buffers with a hard thump. I guess that I am going to take it
back, get another leaf removed, & see what happens next.
I don't know what is going on & look forward to the answers to your
question. No one seems to have had this problem or at least doesn't talk
about it in the archives.
Regards,
Dave Russell
BN2
allen s hodder wrote:
>
> After putting the rear axle in the car, I put my new rear springs from Moss
> (#021-583) on the car. First I connected the front of the springs to the
> bracket. The springs had such an arch to them, that I had to use a chain and
> hydraulic jack to "straighten" them out enough so that I could attach the rear
> of the springs to the rear bracket. Then I attached the ubolts, plates, pads.
> Again the rear springs had too much of an arch to them to go on easily. I had
> to use chains and the hydraulic jack to accomplish this. Then I put on the
> shock absorbers, only to find out that my rear axle is about 1/4 of an inch
> too far to the r/h side. One more time, the rear springs have such an arch to
> them, that the rear axle is compressed on the rebound buffers. Jacking up the
> rear axle (hydraulic jacks on wheels, under each rear brake drum) lifts the
> whole car off of the jack stands. I even filled feed sacks with sand and put
> them on the rear of the floor panels (about 400 lbs.). I am not able to move
> the axle, it's still on the buffers. Did I do anything wrong here? I can't
> imagine running the car with the axle on the frame. I checked the archives,
> but they didn't help. Has anyone else had this problem?
>
> Al
> HBJ8L35791
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "eugene faust"
To: "frogeye" <frogeye@swcp.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 14:07:18 EDT
Subject: Sudden loss of oil pressure
Bruce Phillips of Healey Surgeons immediately suggested looking at the copper
pipe that goes from the oil pump to the block. I dropped the pan and
examined it in place for any fractures, but could see nothing. I turned the
flare nut on the block end of the pipe, and as soon as it loosened the pipe
fell out of the nut going into the oil pump. When I removed that nut I found
the flare nipple had fractured cleanly around and the only thing holding the
piipe in place and supplying any OP at all was the tension provided by the
nut at the block end. Inan is ordering a replacement part from UK--Welch I
think--that is made out of metal-jacketed flexi-hose.
Great diagnosis Bruce--what they say about copper work-hardening sure is true
and I am hopefully the 20 psi that was showing was enough to prevent any
damage--I guess I'll know more in a few days when I get restarted.
It just never stops!
Best to all---Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Pritchard, Donald" <dpritchard at oceprinting.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 15:22:20 -0400
Subject: TOUR de CHESAPEAKE-- Gets Even Better!!!
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 15:49:52 EDT
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
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from the trunk floor between the flanges, about 6" wide, and a threaded
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 13:44:33 -0700
Subject: Trailering with a Healey
All I can think of is that this is some kind of trailer bracket.
Any idea of what this might be?
Bob Walker
Rogers - Advanced Circuit Materials Division - Flexible Products
e-mail: bob.h.walker@rogers-corp.com
Tel: 480-917-5233
FAX: 480-917-5256
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from Tahoe.
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 13:50:07 -0700
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
There may be some cellphones that double as twoway radios and could
solve a portion of those problems. I am not familiar with them.
-Roland
On Mon, 26 Aug 2002 15:49:52 EDT, HLYDOC@aol.com wrote:
:: Just get a cell phone
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 17:10:57 EDT
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
Just a joke David...
Richard
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 17:15:53 EDT
Subject: Re: hand held walkie talkies no LBC content
> << Just get a cell phone >>
>
If god wanted Healey drivers to rely upon cellphones he would have made them
positive ground!
Michael
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 20:04:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
Hope you didn't ruin anything (talking from experience here!),
CB
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 17:54:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Trailering with a Healey
-Roland
On Mon, 26 Aug 2002 13:44:33 -0700, Bob.H.Walker@Rogers-corp.com
wrote:
:: No, I don't propose doing it, but the car I have (a '59 BN-7), in the trunk
:: floor there are two 7" long bars running front to back bolted at each end
:: through the floor of the trunk, about 8" apart. Under the car is a U
:: shaped bracket, flanged at the top of the U arms to allow this to be bolted
:: under the car to the bolts through the bars. There is about 1/2" distance
:: from the trunk floor between the flanges, about 6" wide, and a threaded
:: stud of about 1 1/2" going down in the center of this plate.
::
:: All I can think of is that this is some kind of trailer bracket.
::
:: Any idea of what this might be?
::
:: Bob Walker
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 21:05:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Looking for driving lights
Lucas-Carello lights are readily available at Special Interest Cars in
Oakville, Ontario. Although primarily focused on Ford restorations,
they do have import parts picked up in 'job lots'.
Earlier this spring, I picked up a driving lamp [PA130 Mirage] and fog
lamp [PF130 Mirage] for $50Cdn [ about $32US] for the pair. If you are
interested, they are located at 451 Woody Road in Oakville, Ontario and
can be reached at [905] 844-8063. The best time to call is Saturday
morning and ask for Max.
Good Luck. --Scott
--- Alex <alexmm@adelphia.net> wrote: << I'm looking for a set of
driving lights for my BT7. My old BJ8 had a pair of 200,000 c.p.
Hellas, and I enjoyed them a great deal. Circular types are what I'm
looking for. Anybody got any for sale or trade? Thanks! == Alex in
Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie" >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your ad for free now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 18:38:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: rear springs for HBJ8L35791
This may sound like a stupid stab in the dark, but it
sounds like to me that you've forgotten to put the
rear shackle assembly on your springs. All healeys
have a shackle which will give you clearance to the
frame and make the suspension much softer in the ride
- the rear springs will be very stiff and won't work
without the shackle. The Moss part number is 031-401.
I bought my BJ8's new springs from moss about 7 years
ago and they fit right up and work very well - the car
rides about 1/4" too high, but I actually prefer it
because it keeps my SS exhaust off the road!
Hope that helps -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- allen s hodder <ash173@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> After putting the rear axle in the car, I put my new
> rear springs from Moss
> (#021-583) on the car. First I connected the front
> of the springs to the
> bracket. The springs had such an arch to them, that
> I had to use a chain and
> hydraulic jack to "straighten" them out enough so
> that I could attach the rear
> of the springs to the rear bracket. Then I attached
> the ubolts, plates, pads.
> Again the rear springs had too much of an arch to
> them to go on easily. I had
> to use chains and the hydraulic jack to accomplish
> this. Then I put on the
> shock absorbers, only to find out that my rear axle
> is about 1/4 of an inch
> too far to the r/h side. One more time, the rear
> springs have such an arch to
> them, that the rear axle is compressed on the
> rebound buffers. Jacking up the
> rear axle (hydraulic jacks on wheels, under each
> rear brake drum) lifts the
> whole car off of the jack stands. I even filled feed
> sacks with sand and put
> them on the rear of the floor panels (about 400
> lbs.). I am not able to move
> the axle, it's still on the buffers. Did I do
> anything wrong here? I can't
> imagine running the car with the axle on the frame.
> I checked the archives,
> but they didn't help. Has anyone else had this
> problem?
>
> Al
> HBJ8L35791
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 18:49:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
Thank you for sharing this story with us. As someone
who's relatively new to BN1 ownership (2 years), I was
not aware of this potential problem until now. BJ8s
on the other hand - in 17 years I've already had every
problem in the book!
I'm sure your engine is fine - my buddy once drove his
BJ8 for about 200 miles once with no oil pressure - he
finally spun a bearing (it still ran) but he figures
he had run about 100 miles with no oil in the motor
with no problems - after old austin motors have been
driven for many thousands of miles, oil permeates most
of the metal surfaces and your car can run fine under
minimal or no oil pressure as long as the loads aren't
too high. So as long as you weren't towing a horse
trailer, I'm sure your motor is 100%.
BTW I still can't believe my car is 50 years old!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> This morning I went out for a drive to see what
> effect yesteday''s timing
> adjustments had on running temperatures--the results
> were looking pretty good
> as the water temps were staying down about 175-180.
> The NEXT time I looked
> at the guage my eye took in the oil pressure side of
> the guage and I saw that
> I was doiwn to about 30 PSI at 3000 rpm's whereas I
> normally run at 45-50.
> I pulled over and after pulling the valve cover and
> not seeing much oil
> coming out the rockers I towed the car home and
> checked the bypass valve,
> thinking maybe it was stuck in the open position and
> even changed the oil
> (spin-on) oil filter, on the offchance that it was
> collapsed or that the
> internal bypass was somehow involved. No luck.
>
> Bruce Phillips of Healey Surgeons immediately
> suggested looking at the copper
> pipe that goes from the oil pump to the block. I
> dropped the pan and
> examined it in place for any fractures, but could
> see nothing. I turned the
> flare nut on the block end of the pipe, and as soon
> as it loosened the pipe
> fell out of the nut going into the oil pump. When I
> removed that nut I found
> the flare nipple had fractured cleanly around and
> the only thing holding the
> piipe in place and supplying any OP at all was the
> tension provided by the
> nut at the block end. Inan is ordering a
> replacement part from UK--Welch I
> think--that is made out of metal-jacketed
> flexi-hose.
>
> Great diagnosis Bruce--what they say about copper
> work-hardening sure is true
> and I am hopefully the 20 psi that was showing was
> enough to prevent any
> damage--I guess I'll know more in a few days when I
> get restarted.
>
> It just never stops!
> Best to all---Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:03:29 +1000
Subject: RE: Sudden loss of oil pressure
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 11:50 AM
To: Awgertoo@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
Micheal -
Thank you for sharing this story with us. As someone
who's relatively new to BN1 ownership (2 years), I was
not aware of this potential problem until now. BJ8s
on the other hand - in 17 years I've already had every
problem in the book!
I'm sure your engine is fine - my buddy once drove his
BJ8 for about 200 miles once with no oil pressure - he
finally spun a bearing (it still ran) but he figures
he had run about 100 miles with no oil in the motor
with no problems - after old austin motors have been
driven for many thousands of miles, oil permeates most
of the metal surfaces and your car can run fine under
minimal or no oil pressure as long as the loads aren't
too high. So as long as you weren't towing a horse
trailer, I'm sure your motor is 100%.
BTW I still can't believe my car is 50 years old!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> This morning I went out for a drive to see what
> effect yesteday''s timing
> adjustments had on running temperatures--the results
> were looking pretty good
> as the water temps were staying down about 175-180.
> The NEXT time I looked
> at the guage my eye took in the oil pressure side of
> the guage and I saw that
> I was doiwn to about 30 PSI at 3000 rpm's whereas I
> normally run at 45-50.
> I pulled over and after pulling the valve cover and
> not seeing much oil
> coming out the rockers I towed the car home and
> checked the bypass valve,
> thinking maybe it was stuck in the open position and
> even changed the oil
> (spin-on) oil filter, on the offchance that it was
> collapsed or that the
> internal bypass was somehow involved. No luck.
>
> Bruce Phillips of Healey Surgeons immediately
> suggested looking at the copper
> pipe that goes from the oil pump to the block. I
> dropped the pan and
> examined it in place for any fractures, but could
> see nothing. I turned the
> flare nut on the block end of the pipe, and as soon
> as it loosened the pipe
> fell out of the nut going into the oil pump. When I
> removed that nut I found
> the flare nipple had fractured cleanly around and
> the only thing holding the
> piipe in place and supplying any OP at all was the
> tension provided by the
> nut at the block end. Inan is ordering a
> replacement part from UK--Welch I
> think--that is made out of metal-jacketed
> flexi-hose.
>
> Great diagnosis Bruce--what they say about copper
> work-hardening sure is true
> and I am hopefully the 20 psi that was showing was
> enough to prevent any
> damage--I guess I'll know more in a few days when I
> get restarted.
>
> It just never stops!
> Best to all---Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 22:23:32 -0400
Subject: Re: fender bender to frame off resto
Can it be refinished by tipping up on one
> side or turning over on supports to get good coverage on the bottom?
A. Yes, in fact some folks make up a spit to mount the chassis substructure
for easier turning over for prepping and painting.
As for being a newbie, we all started there!
Rich Chrysler
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From dcorning at comcast.net
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 22:58:50 -0500
Subject: Crankshaft End Play
My first step is to build the engine back up after having the crank, block and
other engine bits serviced. I set the crank back in the block, main bearing
clearance all measured perfectly but I have a question on the crankshaft
endplay. I set everything in place, torqued the maincaps down and proceeded to
check endplay. I used a magnetic dial indicator on the end of the block and
set the dial on the end of the crank. I then used a screwdriver to move it
back and forth and took the reading. With moderate pressure from the
screwdriver, I got slightly more than .003" travel. However, when I release
the pressure, the dial moves back to .002".
Maybe I'm splitting hairs here but I really don't want to build this engine
more than once! The spec. is from .0025" - .0055". What do you think? Let it
go or resize thrust bearings?
Thanks,
Dan Corning
Nashville, TN.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 01:17:36 -0400
Subject: Re: fender bender to frame off resto
I agree. Sounds like a perfect time to do it completely.
>But what about the frame/super structure assembly?
> Since they are welded together is it common practice to keep them that
> way and refinish as one unit?
Yes. If you have a straight car and gaps are OK or better, DO NOT GO
RIPPING METAL FROM METAL!!!
>Can it be refinished by tipping up on one
> side or turning over on supports to get good coverage on the bottom?
Various forms of rotisserie have been made for this. In one instance I saw
where a fella merely proped up one side then the other to work on the
frame/chassis!
You really should send the SUV driver a basket of fruit or something!!!
> Cheers,
> John
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 01:00:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Crankshaft End Play
Maybe I'm a bit of a caveman mechanic, but when I
rebuilt my BJ8 motor 12 years ago, I didn't make a
single measurement. I had a shop turn the crank and
bore the cylinders and a simply just assembled
everything like the book told me without checking end
play or gaps or anything like that. My BJ8 now has
about 60,000 miles on the engine and it runs VERY
smooth and doesn't burn a drop of oil - compression is
all within 5 psi of each other. Don't know if that
helps any, but I think these motors' tolerances are
pretty flexible.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- dcorning@comcast.net wrote:
> I'm back at the restoration project I've had good
> intentions to restart for the last few years. I got
> the garage all cleaned up now and the tools
> organized... No more excuses! I have the money
> saved and it's time to go back to work on my BT7
> again.
>
> My first step is to build the engine back up after
> having the crank, block and other engine bits
> serviced. I set the crank back in the block, main
> bearing clearance all measured perfectly but I have
> a question on the crankshaft endplay. I set
> everything in place, torqued the maincaps down and
> proceeded to check endplay. I used a magnetic dial
> indicator on the end of the block and set the dial
> on the end of the crank. I then used a screwdriver
> to move it back and forth and took the reading.
> With moderate pressure from the screwdriver, I got
> slightly more than .003" travel. However, when I
> release the pressure, the dial moves back to .002".
>
> Maybe I'm splitting hairs here but I really don't
> want to build this engine more than once! The spec.
> is from .0025" - .0055". What do you think? Let it
> go or resize thrust bearings?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Corning
> Nashville, TN.
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 07:26:21 -0400
Subject: Healey Hi-lights
Warren-67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 06:41:12 -0700
Subject: FREE Riley 1.5 in Northern CA.
FREE FREE FREE FREE FREE FREE FREE FREE
This hit my desk this morning - such a deal!!!!!
Just in time for the Palo Alto British Car Meet
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch * * * * * * * * * * * *
Member Keith Murphy passes this along for your consideration:
A FREE classic Riley One-Point-Five
Riley 1.5 sedan with cracked windshield, drivetrain complete, most trim, no
hub caps, car is on wheels - I believe it rolls.
FREE if you call Peter Bassford at 408-280-0753 or email him at:
<peter.bassford@vta.org>
Peter would like a call within about a week or the Riley is history - so
roll out the trailers and get this Riley this week if possible. Car is on
16th street in San Jose, CA. (actually, if someone does commit to taking
it away, he will hold on to it for them for awhile, but let's not waste his
time if interested parties are not sure though, he has already done this
once)
What are you waiting for? Time to call!
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From Richard Wegner <rwegner at synapse.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 10:56:12 -0400
Subject: Carb oil
I have seen mention on the list of different oils used to fill the
carb dashpots on SU carbs. The most recent being SU/Penrite carb oil.
Do any Healey owners know of a source of Penrite or something similar
here in Canada?
Cheers,
Richard
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 11:11:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 08:31:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Hi-lights
I had these symptoms ... hit dimmer switch and headlights would go out. This
would happen only sometimes but did get my attention! I took the switch off the
mounting bracket and sprayed liberally with contact cleaner while actuating the
switch to clean the contacts. I then sprayed with WD40 or Triflow (can't
remember
which) because you want some lubrication to the toggle mechanism. That was about
a year ago and no hiccups since. This method revived my OD switch too... contact
cleaner was not enough, it needed the lubricating spray afterwards.
G'luck,
John
Warren Dietz wrote:
> Listers,
> A strange situation has developed with my hi beams. My wife and I were out
> joy riding the other night to the local favorite ice cream spot and on the
> way home I hit the dimmer switch for some more light on the road and the
> head lights went totally out,except the parking lights,and the instrument
> lights went very dim?!
> Everything seems fine on low beam. I have all original wiring,regulator etc.
> in good shape and have not done any mods with lights.
> I suspected the dimmer switch so I removed it for inspection and cleaned it
> up. Same problem, cuts out on high beam.
> The real quizzer is that the high beams work just fine sitting in the garage
> without engine running OR they work ok with the engine running
> UNTIL I rev the engine, then all goes out and dims the instrument lights?!?
> St.Lucas,pray for us!
>
> Warren-67 BJ8
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 09:08:49 -0700
Subject: fender bender to frame off resto - recap
Since I received many responses off-list I thought I would recap for
those who
are interested and for the archives. Thanks for all the good
suggestions! Cheers,
John
--------------------
It was unanimous to keep the superstructure welded to the frame for a
rust free
undamaged car with good door gaps. Most all said they would also keep
the rear
shroud on if rust and corrosion free. Some suggested a rotesseriery to
better
rotate the frame/superstructure for repair/paint. Here are some of the
other
suggestions:
"I use the saw horse method for painting the chassis although a rotating
support
will allow the most flexibility. With extra wide (4 feet) horses made
from 2 x
4's and a set of top clamps from the local hardware store the frame can
be tipped
left and right on the horses to allow paining of all the nooks and
crannies. The
horses are placed at the front and rear suspension areas. The frame will
sit up
at about 80 degrees with out any extra support. If you are having the
paint work
done by a shop they will have a way of rotating the chassis."
"When I painted my chassis, I tipped it on it's side to paint the under
side. I
used some old tires to cushion it and I had to tie it off to my work
bench to
keep it upright."
"And yes you can tip it over, although I built a stand to do it on. You
can see
this,
although it isn't tipped in these shots, by looking here:
http://members.aol.com/MOWOGMAN/JRH3.html
"I just used tall horses with angle iron pieces on top of the horses so
that
only a tiny spot on the under chassis would have to be touched up.
Tipping the
chassis up a bit on each side could help, but becomes time consuming and
a
painter would rather do it a bit quicker for smoother coverage."
----------------
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:16:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
> There is a steel braided flex line available that we use on all engine
> rebuilds, we also have this in stock at all times.
>
>
Thank you--I have ordered one. The fact that an aftermarket supplier such as
Denis Welch makes such a piece of gear that substantially departs from the
original design tells me that there must be a good reason for getting it.
Had the end of the pipe not remained in the flare nut I would have cooked my
engine!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Kent McLean <kentmclean at mindspring.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 13:16:38 -0400
Subject: RE: 100 vs. Bugeye (was: Healey sighting)
Maybe someday, if I hit the lottery, I'll be able to have the 100 *and*
a Bugeye in my garage. And I think DMH was right; there is a need for
both.
Cheers,
Kent
'56 100 BN-2, a keeper
P.S. Sorry to all those shoppers hoping to buy my 100.
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From "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 12:09:55 -0700
Subject: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
It appears the List and or the following Members are infected.
This morning during email down load, the following five (5) messages
repeated four (4) times each, one after the other, each individual message
repeated four (4) times, than the next message, the same until the VIRUS
MESSAGE, also repeated four (4) times. (NORTON caught all.)
Not knowing much about VIRUSES, IT APPEARS TO ME, THE LIST / SYSTEM IS ALSO
INFECTED OR WHY ELSE WOULD THE SYSTEM REPEAT THESE FIVE MESSAGES,
FOUR TIMES EACH.
I did not notify the below members as I do not have a CLEAN address for
them, maybe one of you can notify them.
ALSO, MAYBE SOMEONE CAN NOTIFY THE SYSTEM ADMINISTRATOR.
IT ALSO APPEARS TO ME, THAT ALL MEMBERS SHOULD HAVE VIRUS SCAN PROGRAMS
THAT SCAN EVERY INCOMING AND OUTGOING EMAIL !!!.
1. From: Blue One Hundred
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure.
Received: 8/26/2002 6:51 PM
"
"
"
2. From: Rich
Subject: Re: Fender bender to frame off recto.
Received 8/26/2002 7:29 PM
"
"
"
3. From: dcorning@comcast.net.
Subject: Crank shaft end play.
Received 8/26/2002 9:07 PM
"
"
"
4. From: Keith Penn
Subject: Re: Fender to frame off recto.
Received 8/26/2002 10:27 PM
"
"
"
(VIRUS EMAIL) (WITH ATTACHMENT SYMBOL)
5. From: Ideal IdealFinds@e-klk.com
Recipient: 62BT7@prodigy.net (Me)
Subject: View Services.txt on screen in Notepad,
Received: 8/26/2002 11:52 PM
"
"
"
( Virus name: w32.Klez.H@mm)
HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE / "US"
Kirk Kvam
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 15:24:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
This occurrence was with a 100. Is the same set up used on the six cylinders
and would you suggest an upgrade to the flex pipe for the six's?
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From Paul Parkanzky <parkanz1 at msu.edu>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 15:49:29 -0400
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
It might interest you to know that, though on the list, I got none of these
messages. I'll bet that others on the list didn't either. The list is not
capable of sending attachments. If you receive a message purporting to be
from the list, and containing an attachment, it is almost definitely a
virus, and almost assuredly not from the list.
Paul Parkanzky
Michigan State University
parkanz1@msu.edu
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:02:36 -0500
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are
No, it's not. I have a Macintosh. It is not affected by your viruses.
Bob Denton (still eating Cherrios in my car)
Paul Parkanzky wrote:
> At 12:09 PM 8/27/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >Hi All,
> >
> >It appears the List and or the following Members are infected.
> >
> >This morning during email down load, the following five (5) messages
> >repeated four (4) times each, one after the other, each individual message
> >repeated four (4) times, than the next message, the same until the VIRUS
> >MESSAGE, also repeated four (4) times. (NORTON caught all.)
> >
> >Not knowing much about VIRUSES, IT APPEARS TO ME, THE LIST / SYSTEM IS ALSO
> >INFECTED OR WHY ELSE WOULD THE SYSTEM REPEAT THESE FIVE MESSAGES,
> >FOUR TIMES EACH.
> >
> >I did not notify the below members as I do not have a CLEAN address for
> >them, maybe one of you can notify them.
> >
> >ALSO, MAYBE SOMEONE CAN NOTIFY THE SYSTEM ADMINISTRATOR.
> >
> >IT ALSO APPEARS TO ME, THAT ALL MEMBERS SHOULD HAVE VIRUS SCAN PROGRAMS
> >THAT SCAN EVERY INCOMING AND OUTGOING EMAIL !!!.
>
> It might interest you to know that, though on the list, I got none of these
> messages. I'll bet that others on the list didn't either. The list is not
> capable of sending attachments. If you receive a message purporting to be
> from the list, and containing an attachment, it is almost definitely a
> virus, and almost assuredly not from the list.
>
> Paul Parkanzky
> Michigan State University
> parkanz1@msu.edu
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 16:52:10 -0400
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
It scans through the infected system's address book, then sends its message +
payload to those addresses, but purporting to be FROM other addresses in the
book. So the "From:" line is meaningless; you have to view ALL the headers
in order to discern what the originating system actually was.
Let me say that again, another way: the system that appears to have sent
the virus isn't the one which actually sent it.
John Miller
Hotlanta
Happy to be Microsoft-free on my email and news machine
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From Marty Filardi <marty_filardi at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 14:01:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: back fire up the carbs
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:27:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
CB
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 17:26:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure
Any additional help is appreciated, as usual.
CB
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 14:43:05 -0700
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
A bit of a trick I learned to stop the spread of these things, courtesy of a
fellow Healey owner nearby - seems to work!
Put a new contact into your address book with the name AAAAAA - don't give
it an e-mail address. The idea is to ensure that it is the first address in
your book, if you use normal alphabetical order. When a worm tries to
e-mail from your book (without you knowing), it'll be stopped - no e-mail
address for the first one it tries.
You will still have to clean your computer in the usual manner, and it has
to be deleted and then re-entered to do certain operations from your address
book.
Best suggestion -(learned the hard way) - use any reputable A/V software,
and be diligent about keeping it updated!
Cheers,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Miller" <healeys@n4vu.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
!!!!!!!
Quick (oversimplified) course on what the virus (technically a worm, not a
virus) does:
It scans through the infected system's address book, then sends its message
+
payload to those addresses, but purporting to be FROM other addresses in the
book. So the "From:" line is meaningless; you have to view ALL the headers
in order to discern what the originating system actually was.
Let me say that again, another way: the system that appears to have sent
the virus isn't the one which actually sent it.
John Miller
Hotlanta
Happy to be Microsoft-free on my email and news machine
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:20:40 -0400
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
Don't forget, we are not as smart as the hackers - they do it for a
living!
And don't forget - the reason nothing is fool-proof is that, most fools
are more creative than the general public.
CB
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 22:02:49 -0400
Subject: Healey Hi-lights- mystery solved
I secured the wires so there will be no interferance with moving steering
rods(Both sides). Didn't hurt that the dimmer switch got a good cleaning as
mentioned by John Loftus. It was very dirty.
Warren-67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 19:09:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Kirk - Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT"
John is correct. The email viruses you received did
not come from the list or myself.
The hallmark of the Klez virus and its variants is it
substitutes the acual sender's address with a random
email address it picks from the sender's address book
in the "From field."
It's almost impossible for me to send you a virus from
this account as it is managed online through Yahoo -
viruses are almost always generated and sent via email
accounts managed with Microsoft Outlook or Outook
Express.
Viruses also commonly travel through Microsoft Word
documents as well.
Best thing to do is have your email online like I do
or buy a Mac. If none of these, keep your virus
software up to date at least once a week....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Kirk Kvam <klkvam@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> It appears the List and or the following Members are
> infected.
>
> This morning during email down load, the following
> five (5) messages
> repeated four (4) times each, one after the other,
> each individual message
> repeated four (4) times, than the next message, the
> same until the VIRUS
> MESSAGE, also repeated four (4) times. (NORTON
> caught all.)
>
> Not knowing much about VIRUSES, IT APPEARS TO ME,
> THE LIST / SYSTEM IS ALSO
> INFECTED OR WHY ELSE WOULD THE SYSTEM REPEAT THESE
> FIVE MESSAGES,
> FOUR TIMES EACH.
>
> I did not notify the below members as I do not have
> a CLEAN address for
> them, maybe one of you can notify them.
>
> ALSO, MAYBE SOMEONE CAN NOTIFY THE SYSTEM
> ADMINISTRATOR.
>
> IT ALSO APPEARS TO ME, THAT ALL MEMBERS SHOULD HAVE
> VIRUS SCAN PROGRAMS
> THAT SCAN EVERY INCOMING AND OUTGOING EMAIL !!!.
>
> 1. From: Blue One Hundred
> Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure.
> Received: 8/26/2002 6:51 PM
> "
> "
> "
> 2. From: Rich
> Subject: Re: Fender bender to frame off recto.
> Received 8/26/2002 7:29 PM
> "
> "
> "
> 3. From: dcorning@comcast.net.
> Subject: Crank shaft end play.
> Received 8/26/2002 9:07 PM
> "
> "
> "
> 4. From: Keith Penn
> Subject: Re: Fender to frame off recto.
> Received 8/26/2002 10:27 PM
> "
> "
> "
> (VIRUS EMAIL) (WITH ATTACHMENT SYMBOL)
> 5. From: Ideal IdealFinds@e-klk.com
> Recipient: 62BT7@prodigy.net (Me)
> Subject: View Services.txt on screen in Notepad,
> Received: 8/26/2002 11:52 PM
> "
> "
> "
> ( Virus name: w32.Klez.H@mm)
>
> HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE / "US"
>
> Kirk Kvam
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 19:34:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: back fire up the carbs
The best way to set your timing is to get one of those
newer types of timing lights from someone like Pep
boys - it looks like a regular timing light but it has
a little timing advance wheel on the back of it - that
way if you are trying to set 15 deg BTDC , you simply
dial in 15 degrees on the wheel and the light will
automatically blink when the TDC marks are lined up -
these newer timing lights are perfect for healeys and
make setting your timing super easy.
It also sounds like to me that your carbs are running
exceptionally lean. First set your timing correctly
and then check the mixture following the instructions
in the Manual. That should get you going.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Marty Filardi <marty_filardi@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the responses. My carbs are rebuilt and
> clean. I have changed to 30W oil. I have tried
> mineral
> oil, 20W and Marvel Mystery Oil. The 30W slows the
> piston rise and gives a leaner and slower
> acceleration
> than the lighter oils, and I think the backfire up
> the
> carbs is less often. It will do it when hot once and
> a
> while. I do not really know where to set the timing
> in that the mark is TDC. Where is 15deg? I had it
> set
> about 2 inches from the TDC last year at 700rpm and
> moved it to 1 inch this summer. It seems to run
> better, with less backfire up the carb. I never use
> the choke, just put the loud pedal down, having the
> same effect, both the choke and the accelerator
> pedal
> just move the diaphragm down on the HD8 carbs. I do
> not know what to think about the response concerning
> not using the Lucas sport Coil with the ignitor. I
> will call the company and get back to you. I did
> bypass the balast resistor when I hooked up the LSC.
>
> Thanks again for the help. Marty
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:20:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Carb oil
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from any computer with internet access. I cannot imagine why someone would
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:22:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Kirk - Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT"
John
>From: Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Kirk - Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT"
>Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 19:09:18 -0700 (PDT)
>
>It's almost impossible for me to send you a virus from
>this account as it is managed online through Yahoo -
>viruses are almost always generated and sent via email
>accounts managed with Microsoft Outlook or Outook
>Express.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 21:26:38 -0700
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
From: Webmaster
Subject: and that your modem is properly configured as
It had an attachment paperclip. Norton caught it but could not repair it.
It went into quarantine and I subsequently deleted it. I did not receive
any of the messages listed by Kirk.
Check your address books. If you have an address named "Webmaster", you
could have been the 'carrier'.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "allen s hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 02:30:23 -0500
Subject: rear springs update
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 02:08:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: rear springs update
Obviously the springs supplied to you are incorrect
for your car. I suggest you send them back to
whomever you bought them from for a refund and order
them from a supplier who works with Healeys
exclusively (& passionately), such as:
www.britishcarspecialists.com
Hemphills (don't have the web page handy)
www.cape-international.com
or
www.ahspares.co.uk
As far as I'm concerned you shouldn't have to remove
leafs to make the springs work on your late model BJ8.
Something else is probably wrong with your springs
(wrong parts are more common than I care to think
about).
I think you'll find that these suppliers (above) will
have parts that have a much better chance of
fitting....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- allen s hodder <ash173@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> I had to remove the new springs from the car. The
> pressure that the rear axle
> put on the frame was unacceptable. I did some
> measuring. Using a straightedge
> across the top of the eye rings, and then measuring
> down to the leafs, was 6
> 1/2" on the old springs, and 7 11/16" on the new.
> The distance from the
> outside on the eye rings was 34 1/2" on the old and
> 33 1/8" on the new. The
> problem is too much arch on the new springs. The new
> springs had to be put on
> and taken off with the use of chain and hydraulic
> jack. Hard and dangerous
> work. I have two choices now. I can take my old
> springs and sandblast them and
> make new toe bolts, and use them, or take two of the
> shortest leafs off the
> new springs. The arch would still be the same if I
> did that, but might "give"
> easier. My old springs are terribly rusty and I'll
> have to use the torch to
> remove whats left of the old bolts frozen in the
> front eye rings. Some times
> life is harder than woodpecker lips.
> Al
> HBJ8L35791
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From "62BT7" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 04:46:04 -0700
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
Why four of the same message one after the other, than
a new message four times one after the other for a total
of five messages. The receive time is unique to each set
of messages.
Kirk Kvam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED !!!!!!!
> Hi All,
>
> It appears the List and or the following Members are infected.
>
> This morning during email down load, the following five (5) messages
> repeated four (4) times each, one after the other, each individual message
> repeated four (4) times, than the next message, the same until the VIRUS
> MESSAGE, also repeated four (4) times. (NORTON caught all.)
>
> Not knowing much about VIRUSES, IT APPEARS TO ME, THE LIST / SYSTEM IS
ALSO
> INFECTED OR WHY ELSE WOULD THE SYSTEM REPEAT THESE FIVE MESSAGES,
> FOUR TIMES EACH.
>
> I did not notify the below members as I do not have a CLEAN address for
> them, maybe one of you can notify them.
>
> ALSO, MAYBE SOMEONE CAN NOTIFY THE SYSTEM ADMINISTRATOR.
>
> IT ALSO APPEARS TO ME, THAT ALL MEMBERS SHOULD HAVE VIRUS SCAN PROGRAMS
> THAT SCAN EVERY INCOMING AND OUTGOING EMAIL !!!.
>
> 1. From: Blue One Hundred
> Subject: Re: Sudden loss of oil pressure.
> Received: 8/26/2002 6:51 PM
> "
> "
> "
> 2. From: Rich
> Subject: Re: Fender bender to frame off recto.
> Received 8/26/2002 7:29 PM
> "
> "
> "
> 3. From: dcorning@comcast.net.
> Subject: Crank shaft end play.
> Received 8/26/2002 9:07 PM
> "
> "
> "
> 4. From: Keith Penn
> Subject: Re: Fender to frame off recto.
> Received 8/26/2002 10:27 PM
> "
> "
> "
> (VIRUS EMAIL) (WITH ATTACHMENT SYMBOL)
> 5. From: Ideal IdealFinds@e-klk.com
> Recipient: 62BT7@prodigy.net (Me)
> Subject: View Services.txt on screen in Notepad,
> Received: 8/26/2002 11:52 PM
> "
> "
> "
> ( Virus name: w32.Klez.H@mm)
>
> HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE / "US"
>
> Kirk Kvam
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:23:44 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: rear springs update
Alan BJ8L/34297
> I had to remove the new springs from the car. The pressure that the
> rear axle put on the frame was unacceptable. I did some measuring.
> Using a straightedge across the top of the eye rings, and then
> measuring down to the leafs, was 6 1/2" on the old springs, and 7
> 11/16" on the new. The distance from the outside on the eye rings was
> 34 1/2" on the old and 33 1/8" on the new. The problem is too much arch
> on the new springs. The new springs had to be put on and taken off with
> the use of chain and hydraulic jack. Hard and dangerous work. I have
> two choices now. I can take my old springs and sandblast them and make
> new toe bolts, and use them, or take two of the shortest leafs off the
> new springs. The arch would still be the same if I did that, but might
> "give" easier. My old springs are terribly rusty and I'll have to use
> the torch to remove whats left of the old bolts frozen in the front eye
> rings. Some times life is harder than woodpecker lips.
> Al
> HBJ8L35791
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From "Heard Saxon" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 09:02:36 -0400
Subject: Caliper question
1. I've read that I should not spit the calipers. However, I think I will
need to do this if only to clean up the bore. Where can I get the inner
seals that I will need to put these back together? And, is there any other
reason not to split the calipers?
2. Does anyone have a better way to free up these pistons?
Well, I guess that was actually 3 questions.....
Thanks,
Heard
60BT7
Enterprise, FL
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 21:27:26 +0800
Subject: South African listers - No Healey content
Apologies for bombing the list but are there any South African members out
there who would care to contact me of list re S.A. contacts
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 10:09:08 -0400
Subject: RE: back fire up the carbs
As far as carb tuning ... one can get a quick idea of mixture setting from
the sound of the exhaust ... once warm, there shouldn't be any "popping", it
should sound even in tone. I used colortune, but quite honestly, I think you
can do just as well by setting the mixture so that when you lift the carb
piston the revs increase slightly then drop down. Further fine tuning can be
done from checking the spark plug color (light brown) and exhaust tip
insides (grey).
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002 10:35 PM
To: Marty Filardi; healey
Subject: Re: back fire up the carbs
Marty -
The best way to set your timing is to get one of those
newer types of timing lights from someone like Pep
boys - it looks like a regular timing light but it has
a little timing advance wheel on the back of it - that
way if you are trying to set 15 deg BTDC , you simply
dial in 15 degrees on the wheel and the light will
automatically blink when the TDC marks are lined up -
these newer timing lights are perfect for healeys and
make setting your timing super easy.
It also sounds like to me that your carbs are running
exceptionally lean. First set your timing correctly
and then check the mixture following the instructions
in the Manual. That should get you going.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Marty Filardi <marty_filardi@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the responses. My carbs are rebuilt and
> clean. I have changed to 30W oil. I have tried
> mineral
> oil, 20W and Marvel Mystery Oil. The 30W slows the
> piston rise and gives a leaner and slower
> acceleration
> than the lighter oils, and I think the backfire up
> the
> carbs is less often. It will do it when hot once and
> a
> while. I do not really know where to set the timing
> in that the mark is TDC. Where is 15deg? I had it
> set
> about 2 inches from the TDC last year at 700rpm and
> moved it to 1 inch this summer. It seems to run
> better, with less backfire up the carb. I never use
> the choke, just put the loud pedal down, having the
> same effect, both the choke and the accelerator
> pedal
> just move the diaphragm down on the HD8 carbs. I do
> not know what to think about the response concerning
> not using the Lucas sport Coil with the ignitor. I
> will call the company and get back to you. I did
> bypass the balast resistor when I hooked up the LSC.
>
> Thanks again for the help. Marty
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 08:14:40 -0600
Subject: Steering box oil and seal
and, how much should I use?
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 00:09:33 +1000
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
You can probably analyse the headers using http://spamcop.net
But DON'T use spamcop to report a 'virus sender' - it is to report people
who send SPAM -(unsolicited commercial bulk email). i.e. try spamcop - see
if it can analyse WHO sent you the email i.e. the origin of the emails - but
DON'T send the spamcop report to their ISPs.
Hope this helps
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "62BT7" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: "Kirk Kvam" <klkvam@prodigy.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: "VIRUS" "ALERT" It appears the LIST/MEMBERS are INFECTED
!!!!!!!
> No one has answered the question/
>
> Why four of the same message one after the other, than
> a new message four times one after the other for a total
> of five messages. The receive time is unique to each set
> of messages.
>
> Kirk Kvam
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 11:01:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering box oil and seal
Ned Paulsen
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 12:01:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Springs update
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 10:34:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Caliper question
If you are going to split and rebuild you might try grease from a
grease gun instead of air. Be careful and have something to keep the
piston(s) from ejecting fully and squirting or blowing pressurized
grease or air dangerously. Eye protection, of course. And degrease
the calipers compulsively when they are apart.
-Roland.
On Wed, 28 Aug 2002 09:02:36 -0400, "Heard Saxon"
<heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
:: Hello,
:: I'm currenlty rebuilding the front brake calipers on my car. They have been
:: stored for over 10 years and I'm having a little trouble freeing up the
:: pistons. I'm currently using a combination of soaking and air pressure to
:: free them up with some success. I have two questions I would like some
:: input on:
::
:: 1. I've read that I should not spit the calipers. However, I think I will
:: need to do this if only to clean up the bore. Where can I get the inner
:: seals that I will need to put these back together? And, is there any other
:: reason not to split the calipers?
::
:: 2. Does anyone have a better way to free up these pistons?
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 12:47:56 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Caliper question
I did free up a piston once using an adapter and a grease gun. Messy! Best
is air pressure. Use a vise grip type c-clamp to move the piston to the
bottom of the bore clean the bore out good, apply brake fluid and apply air
pressure. Make sure you prevent the piston from flying out of the bore. It
could cause serious injury. I used the vise grip to ease the piston out in
steps.
Alan BJ8L/34297
> Hello,
> I'm currenlty rebuilding the front brake calipers on my car. They have
> been stored for over 10 years and I'm having a little trouble freeing
> up the pistons. I'm currently using a combination of soaking and air
> pressure to free them up with some success. I have two questions I
> would like some input on:
>
> 1. I've read that I should not spit the calipers. However, I think I
> will need to do this if only to clean up the bore. Where can I get the
> inner seals that I will need to put these back together? And, is there
> any other reason not to split the calipers?
>
> 2. Does anyone have a better way to free up these pistons?
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 13:53:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering box oil and seal
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From "Gary Williams" <gary_c_williams at hotmail.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 12:28:36 -0700
Subject: Fuel Tank on BJ8
I checked the archive and didn't see this mentioned anywhere, but I did want
to confirm the fuel tank capacity on a BJ8. I believe it's 12 gallons,
correct?
Second question: most of the books I've read on the Ph II BJ8 say they
achieve ~20 MPG. I thought I was going through quite a bit of fuel and
checked my mileage recently and I'm at ~12.6 MPG. This seems especially
poor. Has anyone else experienced this?
GW
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:37:30 -0500
Subject: Re: rear springs update
Mark
> I had to remove the new springs from the car. The pressure that the rear
axle
> put on the frame was unacceptable. I did some measuring. Using a
straightedge
> across the top of the eye rings, and then measuring down to the leafs, was
6
> 1/2" on the old springs, and 7 11/16" on the new. The distance from the
> outside on the eye rings was 34 1/2" on the old and 33 1/8" on the new.
The
> problem is too much arch on the new springs. The new springs had to be put
on
> and taken off with the use of chain and hydraulic jack. Hard and dangerous
> work. I have two choices now. I can take my old springs and sandblast them
and
> make new toe bolts, and use them, or take two of the shortest leafs off
the
> new springs. The arch would still be the same if I did that, but might
"give"
> easier. My old springs are terribly rusty and I'll have to use the torch
to
> remove whats left of the old bolts frozen in the front eye rings. Some
times
> life is harder than woodpecker lips.
> Al
> HBJ8L35791
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:48:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering box oil and seal
> On a BN7, what kind of steering box oil should I use?
>
> and, how much should I use?
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:56:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering box oil and seal
> The steering box is filed with 90 wt gear oil.
> fill to the fill hole.
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From "GM" <altec210 at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:54:58 -0400
Subject: Re: back fire up the carbs
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Marty -
>
> The best way to set your timing is to get one of those
> newer types of timing lights from someone like Pep
> boys - it looks like a regular timing light but it has
> a little timing advance wheel on the back of it - that
> way if you are trying to set 15 deg BTDC , you simply
> dial in 15 degrees on the wheel and the light will
> automatically blink when the TDC marks are lined up -
> these newer timing lights are perfect for healeys and
> make setting your timing super easy.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:22:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Caliper question
Mark
> Hello,
> I'm currenlty rebuilding the front brake calipers on my car. They have
been
> stored for over 10 years and I'm having a little trouble freeing up the
> pistons. I'm currently using a combination of soaking and air pressure to
> free them up with some success. I have two questions I would like some
> input on:
>
> 1. I've read that I should not spit the calipers. However, I think I
will
> need to do this if only to clean up the bore. Where can I get the inner
> seals that I will need to put these back together? And, is there any
other
> reason not to split the calipers?
>
> 2. Does anyone have a better way to free up these pistons?
>
> Well, I guess that was actually 3 questions.....
>
>
> Thanks,
> Heard
> 60BT7
> Enterprise, FL
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 19:09:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank on BJ8
> Hi all,
>
> I checked the archive and didn't see this mentioned anywhere, but I did
want
> to confirm the fuel tank capacity on a BJ8. I believe it's 12 gallons,
> correct?
The capacity is 12 Imperial gallons. I'd bet you are thinking in U.S.
gallons which is something like 4/5 of an Imperial gallon.
>
> Second question: most of the books I've read on the Ph II BJ8 say they
> achieve ~20 MPG. I thought I was going through quite a bit of fuel and
> checked my mileage recently and I'm at ~12.6 MPG. This seems especially
> poor. Has anyone else experienced this?
If you figured this to U.S. gallons you are actually getting about15 or so
in Imperial gallons. I recall with my BJ8 many years ago getting between 18
and 21 MPG in Imperial gallons.
Rich Chrysler
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From Andy Phillips <AndyP at cylogix.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 19:45:11 -0400
Subject: RE: back fire up the carbs
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Broughel [mailto:brougheldp@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 5:58 PM
To: Andy Phillips; austin healey
Subject: Re: back fire up the carbs
Dear Andy:
After a 25 year sleep My longbridge 6 cylinder backfired through the
carbs.
I put new points, plugs ,condenser and most of all a new distributor cap and
its
like a new engine.
Good Luck ........Dennis Broughel.........Bn-4 ...45281......Longbridge
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 19:55:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 100-4 Hard Top
"It is the rare large window version. I have had this piece for
almost 40 years, and during that time I spoke to Donald Healey about it
and was informed only about 6 were made/sold. I have included the two
pages of available options, the top being on the second page. Both
side curtains are with the top and in good condition. The top itself
needs a restoration/recovering."
It can be viewed at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1854899759
What amazes me is the 'Buy it now' price of $3,500.00
Enjoy!! --Scott Morris
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your ad for free now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 08:23:54 +0800
Subject: Second European Healey Meeting at St. Moritz in 2004
can someone point me in the right direction to get info on the Second
European Healey Meeting at St. Moritz in 2004.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
BT7 on the road
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 19:46:30 -0700
Subject: RE: Caliper question
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:55:00 +0100
Subject: Re: rear springs update
One of the suggestions from the list was:
"If old springs can be re-arched then I would think new springs could be
de-arched. Why not try a shop that could take some arch out?"
Whilst this is possible, it should be remembered that the dynamic behaviour of
a pair of springs depends upon many factors, some obvious such as number and
length of leafs, but some not so obvious as the cross sectional area of each
leaf and the deflection under a given load, which is a property of the
composition of the spring steel and the heat treatment at manufacture. On top
of that there has been much discussion on this list re inter-leaf material (so
that they can 'slide' across each other as the spring deflects).
There are really only two alternatives if you wish to have the car handling
correctly:
1. Have your originals rebuilt by a reputable spring shop. The size and
composition of the spring steel will not have altered but the shop will clean
them up, replace any cracked leafs, re-apply the original heat treatment and
fit inter-leafs, etc as well as test deflection under load.
2. As Alan (Blue One Hundred <international_investor@yahoo.com>) suggested,
contact one of the reputable Healey suppliers. At the very least, they would be
able to supply you with sizes of their springs for comparison.
Regards
Paul
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From "frogeye" <frogeye at swcp.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 11:19:03 -0600
Subject: armatures
Dave@SWCP.com Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 100
http://www.britishcarforum.com/TaosAnnex.htm
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 15:02:48 -0400
Subject: RE: Fuel Tank on BJ8
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Meanie"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Rich C
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 7:09 PM
To: Gary Williams; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank on BJ8
Gary wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I checked the archive and didn't see this mentioned anywhere, but I did
want
> to confirm the fuel tank capacity on a BJ8. I believe it's 12 gallons,
> correct?
The capacity is 12 Imperial gallons. I'd bet you are thinking in U.S.
gallons which is something like 4/5 of an Imperial gallon.
>
> Second question: most of the books I've read on the Ph II BJ8 say they
> achieve ~20 MPG. I thought I was going through quite a bit of fuel and
> checked my mileage recently and I'm at ~12.6 MPG. This seems especially
> poor. Has anyone else experienced this?
If you figured this to U.S. gallons you are actually getting about15 or so
in Imperial gallons. I recall with my BJ8 many years ago getting between 18
and 21 MPG in Imperial gallons.
Rich Chrysler
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From HealeyHundred at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 16:26:47 EDT
Subject: Two Colorado Events...
Two special events will soon be upon us. First, the Colorado Grand will be
taking place the week of September 9th. This year their base will be the
Cascade Hotel in Vail. The finish is on Friday, September 13th and the cars
will be on display Friday afternoon and Saturday morning. Juli and I are
planning to drive up Friday midday to watch the cars arrive at the finish and
spend some time in the beautiful Colorado Rockies, see the cars on display on
Saturday and drive home to prepare for the Second event: The Colorado English
Motoring Conclave.
It is a bit of a conflict as the Conclave will be having their Rallye on
Saturday. But the fabulous 500 + vehicle car show will be on Sunday,
September 15th at the Memorial Park in Arvada (58th and Ammons Street).
Hope to see you all at Conclave!!! If you need information, please call Gary
George 303-477-0189 days or Scott Story 303-755-1426 evenings.
If you go up to Vail for the Colorado Grand and want accommodations at the
Cascade, phone them at 1-800-420-2424.
What a great weekend to spend some time with great people and wonderful cars.
It is of course the anniversary of the September 11th tragedy and I can't
think of a better way remember our country's loss and to show our American
strength than by getting out and enjoying our beautiful Colorado and our
wonderful English cars. I plan on displaying the American flag along with
the English flag at Conclave this year. See you there?
Best Wishes,
Richard Gordon
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 17:43:39 EDT
Subject: Sudden loss of oil pressure--conclusion
Best to all--Michael Oritt, 100 LeMans
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From dwflagg at juno.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 17:43:59 -0400
Subject: Re:Smiths Ammeter
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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From rich62501 at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 19:58:52 EDT
Subject: I NEED SOME * AUSTIN HEALEY * HELP PLEASE........
---
Return-path: <rich62501@aol.com>
From: rich62501@aol.com
Full-name: rich62501
Message-ID: <60.241e93cb.2a856a46@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:56:06 EDT
Subject: I NEED SOME * AUSTIN HEALEY * HELP PLEASE........
To: concours@healey.org
CC: rich62501@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10512
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was multipart/alternative
NO REPLY TO DATE ...........
> Subj:I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE........
> Date:8/1/2002 9:58:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time
> From:<A HREF="mailto:rich62501";>rich62501</A>
> To:<A HREF="mailto:concours@healey.org";>concours@healey.org</A>
> CC:<A HREF="mailto:rich62501";>rich62501</A>
>
>
>
> repair help needed
> PLEASE::
> A) I need to find a repair person/shop.I have a 1961 AH 3000,
> HBT7L with 3-carbs, 4 seater, electric over drive, screw-on slide Plexiglas
> windows. Body has been restored.
> SAD STORY:: I took in into a local garage whose' owner personally swore he
> owned and worked on Healeys before. Unfortunately, he had someone else work
> on my car; I later found out.
> My car was in garaged storage for some 3 years, and it ran before I took it
> to the local garage for total mechanical tuning.
> Two weeks later, the garage calls and says that my
> engine is "frozen"; they cannot budge it over. I could not prove anything
> that they did, but know full well that the engine was not frozen before
> they got it. I have it back and need some honest and most competent person
> / place to get it running; as a reasonable expense. The interior is
> stripped because I was next going to referb it with heat shield and new
> carpet, paint etc... I cannot drive it and wondered if someone of you could
> please recommend someone / someplace within say 30 miles or so from Half
> Moon Bay, California OR ZIP CODE 94038 where I am. [[I could go further in
> distance, if I had to get someone honest and reasonably priced.]] I have
> not been working for several years from a disability accident.... so cash
> flow is of some concern. Any recommendation / advice is greatly
> appreciated.. It has been WAY too long since I have heard the purr of that
> engine and driven the curves of the coastside and back roads..
>
> B) hOW DO I GET THE ah RESOURCE BOOK??
>
> Please help...Thank you. Sincerely. Richard rich62501@aol.com ((AH CLUB
> MEMBER ))
Return-path: <rich62501@aol.com>
From: rich62501@aol.com
Full-name: rich62501
Message-ID: <155.11d997ab.2a7b6b8b@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 00:58:51 EDT
Subject: I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE........
To: concours@healey.org
CC: rich62501@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10512
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
repair help needed
PLEASE::
A) I need to find a repair person/shop.I have a 1961 AH 3000,
HBT7L with 3-carbs, 4 seater, electric over drive, screw-on slide Plexiglas
windows. Body has been restored.
SAD STORY:: I took in into a local garage whose' owner personally swore he
owned and worked on Healeys before. Unfortunately, he had someone else work
on my car; I later found out.
My car was in garaged storage for some 3 years, and it ran before I took it
to the local garage for total mechanical tuning.
Two weeks later, the garage calls and says that my
engine is "frozen"; they cannot budge it over. I could not prove anything
that they did, but know full well that the engine was not frozen before they
got it. I have it back and need some honest and most competent person / place
to get it running; as a reasonable expense. The interior is stripped because
I was next going to referb it with heat shield and new carpet, paint etc... I
cannot drive it and wondered if someone of you could please recommend someone
/ someplace within say 30 miles or so from Half Moon Bay, California OR ZIP
CODE 94038 where I am. [[I could go further in distance, if I had to get
someone honest and reasonably priced.]] I have not been working for several
years from a disability accident.... so cash flow is of some concern. Any
recommendation / advice is greatly appreciated.. It has been WAY too long
since I have heard the purr of that engine and driven the curves of the
coastside and back roads..
B) hOW DO I GET THE ah RESOURCE BOOK??
Please help...Thank you. Sincerely. Richard rich62501@aol.com ((AH CLUB
MEMBER ))
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 18:29:51 -0600
Subject: Rear spring leaf thickness
Can someone tell me what thickness the individual rear spring leaves
should be on a Hundred Four? Are they different on the later models?
Thanks for your help,
Dave Russell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 18:15:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: I NEED SOME * AUSTIN HEALEY * HELP PLEASE........
You definitely want to try Mike at John Bull Auto in
Walnut Creek, CA - maybe just about 30 miles from you.
He's been in and out on the verge of retirement over
the last couple of years, but he has always been very
fair about his pricing and I can guarantee no one in
the bay area knows more about healeys and MGs than
Mike. He's a real good guy and his prices are
completely fair. To put it mildly, he taught me
orders of magnitude more about healey mechanical stuff
than any one else I can think of, including this list.
He has a big stock of new and used parts to boot if
you're into parts (like I am!).
I think his number is 1 925 937 2671 (I'm not sure
about the area code, I think that's correct for Walnut
Creek). He's usually closed on Sundays and Mondays.
His last job for me he converted my BJ8 LHD to RHD
before I brought it to Hong Kong. He can handle
anything!
Good Luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- rich62501@aol.com wrote:
> > repair help needed
> > PLEASE::
> > A) I need to find a repair
> person/shop.I have a 1961 AH 3000,
> > HBT7L with 3-carbs, 4 seater, electric over drive,
> screw-on slide Plexiglas
> > windows. Body has been restored.
> > SAD STORY:: I took in into a local garage whose'
> owner personally swore he
> > owned and worked on Healeys before. Unfortunately,
> he had someone else work
> > on my car; I later found out.
> > My car was in garaged storage for some 3 years,
> and it ran before I took it
> > to the local garage for total mechanical tuning.
> > Two weeks later, the garage calls and says that my
>
> > engine is "frozen"; they cannot budge it over. I
> could not prove anything
> > that they did, but know full well that the engine
> was not frozen before
> > they got it. I have it back and need some honest
> and most competent person
> > / place to get it running; as a reasonable
> expense. The interior is
> > stripped because I was next going to referb it
> with heat shield and new
> > carpet, paint etc... I cannot drive it and
> wondered if someone of you could
> > please recommend someone / someplace within say 30
> miles or so from Half
> > Moon Bay, California OR ZIP CODE 94038 where I am.
> [[I could go further in
> > distance, if I had to get someone honest and
> reasonably priced.]] I have
> > not been working for several years from a
> disability accident.... so cash
> > flow is of some concern. Any recommendation /
> advice is greatly
> > appreciated.. It has been WAY too long since I
> have heard the purr of that
> > engine and driven the curves of the coastside and
> back roads..
> >
> > B) hOW DO I GET THE ah RESOURCE BOOK??
> >
> > Please help...Thank you. Sincerely. Richard
> rich62501@aol.com ((AH CLUB
> > MEMBER ))
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Return-path: <rich62501@aol.com>
> From: rich62501@aol.com
> Full-name: rich62501
> Message-ID: <60.241e93cb.2a856a46@aol.com>
> Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:56:06 EDT
> Subject: I NEED SOME * AUSTIN HEALEY * HELP
> PLEASE........
> To: concours@healey.org
> CC: rich62501@aol.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10512
> X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/mixed by
> demime 0.97c
> X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used
> was multipart/alternative
>
> NO REPLY TO DATE ...........
>
>
> > Subj:I NEED SOME HELP PLEASE........
> > Date:8/1/2002 9:58:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time
> > From:<A HREF="mailto:rich62501";>rich62501</A>
> > To:<A
>
HREF="mailto:concours@healey.org";>concours@healey.org</A>
> > CC:<A HREF="mailto:rich62501";>rich62501</A>
> >
> >
> >
> > repair help needed
> > PLEASE::
> > A) I need to find a repair
> person/shop.I have a 1961 AH 3000,
> > HBT7L with 3-carbs, 4 seater, electric over drive,
> screw-on slide Plexiglas
> > windows. Body has been restored.
> > SAD STORY:: I took in into a local garage whose'
> owner personally swore he
> > owned and worked on Healeys before. Unfortunately,
> he had someone else work
> > on my car; I later found out.
> > My car was in garaged storage for some 3 years,
> and it ran before I took it
> > to the local garage for total mechanical tuning.
> > Two weeks later, the garage calls and says that my
>
> > engine is "frozen"; they cannot budge it over. I
> could not prove anything
> > that they did, but know full well that the engine
> was not frozen before
> > they got it. I have it back and need some honest
> and most competent person
> > / place to get it running; as a reasonable
> expense. The interior is
> > stripped because I was next going to referb it
> with heat shield and new
> > carpet, paint etc... I cannot drive it and
> wondered if someone of you could
> > please recommend someone / someplace within say 30
> miles or so from Half
> > Moon Bay, California OR ZIP CODE 94038 where I am.
> [[I could go further in
> > distance, if I had to get someone honest and
> reasonably priced.]] I have
> > not been working for several years from a
> disability accident.... so cash
> > flow is of some concern. Any recommendation /
> advice is greatly
> > appreciated.. It has been WAY too long since I
> have heard the purr of that
> > engine and driven the curves of the coastside and
> back roads..
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From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:37:20 EDT
Subject: Healey people are great!
Everybody responded to my pleas and the ad was forwarded to more club mailing
lists than I could imagine. ( and a few rules were broken) In the first
twenty-four hours the web page with photos of the car had over 280 hits and I
had over twenty inquiries.
Happy to say the car is now sold for the asking price and the patient is
resting more comfortably in her hospital bed tonight. She thanks everyone for
their help.
Regards,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 22:35:45 EDT
Subject: Timing Light
I checked both places as well as independent Auto Stores and nobody has such
a thing. What am I missing here? What sre they called? I saw some that
give readings for RPMs , dwell, Vacuum and Centrifugal advance; but nothing
about Timing.
I would like to get one if I could finf it! Please Help
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from me for a BJ8. He paid $45 dollars for it and it was structurally
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 22:52:46 EDT
Subject: Healey consol problems
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 23:01:43 EDT
Subject: Information
Thanks--Michael Oritt
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:10:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Timing Light
Here's a few models to choose from:
http://www.handsontools.com/store/list_products/?category_id=218
I prefer the manual advance dial vs. the digital - I
think they are easier to use.
I think Equus makes a dial advance timing light which
sells for about $50. I bought mine at Kragen/Grand
Auto (If forgot who is who now... Kragen right?).
By the way, the dial in advance works best with an
electronic ignition set up (like pertronix) - points
and condensors sometimes can be very sloppy and you
can't get an accurate reading....
Hope that helps,
Alan
--- LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
> A few days ago, there was some coversation about a
> timing light that made
> it possible to dial in degrees BTC that would flash
> the strobe light only
> when that setting was reached by turrning the
> distributor. It was also
> stated that they canbe found at Auto Zone and /or
> Pep Boys, ETC.
>
> I checked both places as well as independent Auto
> Stores and nobody has such
> a thing. What am I missing here? What sre they
> called? I saw some that
> give readings for RPMs , dwell, Vacuum and
> Centrifugal advance; but nothing
> about Timing.
>
> I would like to get one if I could finf it! Please
> Help
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:38:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing Light
Basically, you use it like you would a standard timing light, except that
you turn the knob until the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer (or pulley)
lines up with the TDC pointer on the timing chain cover (in sync with the
strobe). Then you read the advance from the scale.
Sears has them for about $70. I've been happy with mine.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> A few days ago, there was some coversation about a timing light that made
> it possible to dial in degrees BTC that would flash the strobe light only
> when that setting was reached by turrning the distributor. It was also
> stated that they canbe found at Auto Zone and /or Pep Boys, ETC.
>
> I checked both places as well as independent Auto Stores and nobody has such
> a thing. What am I missing here? What sre they called? I saw some that
> give readings for RPMs , dwell, Vacuum and Centrifugal advance; but nothing
> about Timing.
>
> I would like to get one if I could finf it! Please Help
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 23:05:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Timing Light
Rick Ollah
54 BN1
LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
> A few days ago, there was some coversation about a timing light that made
> it possible to dial in degrees BTC that would flash the strobe light only
> when that setting was reached by turrning the distributor. It was also
> stated that they canbe found at Auto Zone and /or Pep Boys, ETC.
>
> I checked both places as well as independent Auto Stores and nobody has such
> a thing. What am I missing here? What sre they called? I saw some that
> give readings for RPMs , dwell, Vacuum and Centrifugal advance; but nothing
> about Timing.
>
> I would like to get one if I could finf it! Please Help
>
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 00:14:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing Light
<< I would like to get one if I could finf it! Please Help >>
Hi Larry,
Check our<A HREF="www.ntahc.org"> NTAHC.org</A> web site, I put a tech tip on
awhile back about this light along with their part number. I bought one from
Sears a number of years ago and it is still working fine. Now they don't sell
them at the "Blue Room".
Don
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:16:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey consol problems
You sold him one for $45 ? I'll have to see if you
have stuff I need in the future!
Hang in there - I sell to new clients every day in my
line of work - my general experience is 90% of the
people are real nice or great to deal with, about 5%
are tough negotiators but pretty good people at the
end of the day, and the last 5% are complete tossers.
The trick is not to let the 5% who are tossers ruin
your day when the other 95% are worth doing business
with!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Wesp11@aol.com wrote:
> Hey does anyone know Leslie Werkema, he is in NJ and
> bought a center consol
> from me for a BJ8. He paid $45 dollars for it and it
> was structurally
> perfect, but had a minor split in the vinyl on the
> side trim, he complained
> how terrible it was because it had rust on the metal
> work behind it on teh
> back portion where it meet the firewall, I explained
> that those were never
> primed and all have flash rust on them especially a
> used one. I dont care
> about money and would have offered a full refund
> including shipping! if you
> know him explain that the center consol is an item
> you cant buy new, at least
> not that I am aware of and what he got was a steal
> for $45 bucks, I can only
> assume he is one of "those" guys who bought a car in
> the 70's when they were
> worthless and now wants to restore it at 70's
> prices, but wants to dream of
> having a $30k car, I just wanted to let the list
> know if this guy approaches
> you for parts he's a dreamer and a waste of time, he
> does not know a good
> thing when he gets one, thanks
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 07:08:42 -0400
Subject: Attn: robert.brown1@attbi.com (virus alert)
Your system has been originating messages carring the Klez worm. The most
recent one was purported to be from "gregbankin <gregbankin@primus.com.au>"
but it was actualy mailed from your system.
--
John Miller
N4VU AMA 739245 DoD 1942
"'Broke' is a temporary condition, but 'poor' is a state of mind."
-David Kury
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From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:00:46 EDT
Subject: I need some parts
Scott McPherson
BN4 Lake Charles LA
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:08:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Carb oil
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 13:24:51 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: "Herman" <herman@capitalhealeys.org>
Subject: Dash Pot Oil -The Final Word
Enough already! Donald and Geoff may not be around to answer many of
our questions, but Burlen Fuel Systems, Ltd. still manufactures SU and
Zenith carburetters. Below is their reply to my query on the correct
weight dash pot oil. I hope this discussion is over as it will leave
more time to rehash tire sizes. ;+) If you can't wait (no pun
intended, the answer is 20 SAE.
--Herman
Reply-To: "General Enquiries" <info@burlen.co.uk>
From: "General Enquiries" <c_services@btconnect.com>
To: "Herman" <herman@capitalhealeys.org>
Subject: Re: 'Dash Pot Oil'
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 16:43:08 +0100
The sole Manufacturer and Distributor of Genuine, New SU Carburetters
and Fuel Pumps. Manufacturer and Distributor of genuine Zenith &
Stromberg carburetters and Components.
Spitfire House, Castle Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP1 3SA
00 44 (0) 1722 412500 fax 00 44 (0) 1722 334221
<http://www.burlen.co.uk/>
We accept payment in Sterling by...Visa, Access, Switch, Cheque, Cash
Hours of business...08:45 - 17:15 Mondays Thursdays 08:45 - 16:30
Fridays
Dear Mr. Farrer,
The correct grade oil for the dampers in SU carbs is SAE20 which we
supply in 125ml plastic bottles @ #3.30 each. I have passed your
request to be added to the links page to the relevant person here.
Thank you,
--Ray Choules, Customer Services.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca'" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>,
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Dash Pot fluids
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:04:24 -0600
Others may have their favorites, but it seems to me that the best place
to start is with an oil which is intended for the purpose. I use
Penrite or S.U dashpot oil, and have been happy with them. There may
be other brands too.
--Bob Frisby '62 BT7 Tricarb
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "rfrisby" <rfrisby@micron.com>
To: "'Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca'" <Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca>,
healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Dash Pot fluids
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:04:24 -0600
Others may have their favorites, but it seems to me that the best place
to start is with an oil which is intended for the purpose. I use
Penrite or S.U dashpot oil, and have been happy with them. There may
be other brands too.
--Bob Frisby '62 BT7 Tricarb
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "GM" <altec210@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Dash Pot fluids
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 19:58:34 -0400
FWIW, all the various references through '69 I've had spec'd straight
20W. This assumes that all tolerances are within spec though, so it
comes down to experimenting with what works best on your carbs. It's
purpose is to damp out rapid piston pulsing and over reacting to rapid
throttle changes that can lean out or flood it depending on whether the
oil is too thick or too thin. Since I tended to drive mine hard I used
nothing and kept the piston/dashpots nicely polished, the downside
being a more irratic idle than the 3/4 race cam profile would otherwise
have given. Made folks wonder just what I'd done to it and yet still
be streetable. :^) On other folks cars I just kept them cleaned and
used Marvel Mystery oil.
--GM
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 18:21:11 -0500
To: Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca
From: "Jon McLeroy" <jfm@ballistic.com>
Subject: Re: Dash Pot fluids
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Stan; Why not try Penrite Damper Oil for SU and Stromberg Carbs? I
have 125ml for $5.75 plus S&H. Thanks and God Bless,
--Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222, Tyler, Tx, 75709
Ph:903-561-4858 Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com www.classicautolubes.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "i erbs" <eyera3@attbi.com>
To: Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca
CC: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Dash Pot fluids
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:51:28 -0700
Use Mystery marvel Oil, have done so for over 25 years
--Ira
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Stan_Sierpina@translink.bc.ca
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dash Pot fluids
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:20:41 -0700
What's the consensus of opinion on the best fluid to put in the SUs?
I've heard of everything from nothing, water, 3 in 1 machine oil, brake
fluid, sewing machine oil, ATF, 20/50, 10/30, 20 wt, etc. I was running
brake fluid but was getting a flat spot accelerating in 3rd and 4th
especially during a recent heat wave so was thinking brake fluid was
too thin so switched to ATF which seems to be commonly recommended.
So far, haven't experienced the flat spot although the ambient air
temperature has decreased. Couple of questions..would the flat spots
be caused by too thin a fluid in the dash pots and what is the majority
view on the best fluid to put in my tri-carb? Many thanks.
--Stan..61 BT7
========================================================================
--- Richard Wegner <rwegner@synapse.net> wrote: << Hi, I have seen
mention on the list of different oils used to fill the carb dashpots on
SU carbs. T he most recent being SU/Penrite carb oil. Do any Healey
owners know of a source of Penrite or something similar here in Canada?
Cheers, --Richard
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:57:09 -0700
Subject: Concours dilemma
Years ago for reasons unknown to me, but probably insurance related, the
car was stripped of the engine and chassis number plates and given a DMV
(department of motor vehicle) number in California. The title doesn't
say salvage but essentially it is a salvage title. No chassis numbers
under the paint on the shock tower and the rear axle number was ground
off and replaced with DMV number. There is a frame number 298 on the
right shock tower near the radiator and some Jenson body numbers (A600)
stamped on individual parts that match front and rear which at least
indicates that it's not a pieced together car but there hasn't been a
way for me to get the correct Heritage Certificate without the chassis
and/or engine numbers. This is why I've never considered entering
Concours. Can you even enter a car in Concours that has no id plates?
What would the deduction be? Or any other suggestions for finding the
true identity of the car and reversing the salvage title (note ... not
willing to commit fraud.) Any other places to look for the chassis
number on the frame?
Cheers,
John
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:49:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Timing Light
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Timing Light
> It's sometimes called an "advance meter." Looks light a standard timing
> light, but has a knob and scale on the back.
>
> Basically, you use it like you would a standard timing light, except that
> you turn the knob until the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer (or pulley)
> lines up with the TDC pointer on the timing chain cover (in sync with the
> strobe). Then you read the advance from the scale.
>
> Sears has them for about $70. I've been happy with mine.
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:33:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Concours dilemma
I'd wonder if there is a police report somewhere with those numbers........
I once bought a boat cheap.......registered it with existing paper work, no
problems.....a while later water police came and showed me where engine
numbers had been ground off....long story short--no boat no more!
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:43:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Concours dilemma
If you still have the original dash, the chassis number is written in yellow
grease pencil on the back.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
In a message dated 8/30/02 1:02:17 PM, loftusdesign@cox.net writes:
<<Any other places to look for the chassis
number on the frame?
Cheers,
John>>
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From "R. Denton, Auburn Design Group" <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 14:01:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours dilemma
Bob Denton
HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
> John,
>
> If you still have the original dash, the chassis number is written in yellow
> grease pencil on the back.
>
> Happy Healeying,
> Rick
>
> In a message dated 8/30/02 1:02:17 PM, loftusdesign@cox.net writes:
>
> <<Any other places to look for the chassis
> number on the frame?
>
> Cheers,
> John>>
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:08:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Painting a BJ8
My question is in regards to the clear coat. Is it
best to clear coat with all parts on the car and after
any touch-up to the base color has been addressed? If
so, At what point do I put the fender beading on? It
seems as though it would be logical to put the beading
on the fenders and then mount them.
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 15:12:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing Light
I found it at Sears with the help of the listers
Larry
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From "rdavies" <rdavies at cox.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:30:21 -0700
Subject: sump plug
67BJ8
Never had this problem with my 64BJ8.
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:38:54 EDT
Subject: oil pressure (2)
Thanks,
Price
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 15:35:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Concours dilemma
if you are domiciled in ca., try to find someone with a bj7 title for sale and
then you'll have a car number of your very own to use on the firewall plate.
you can pick some numbers within the range of your new car number to use for
the body and engine plates.
you can keep your salvage title for ca. rather than going through the ordeal of
trying to get the number from a "used" transferred over to your healey.
go for concours with contrived numbers -- no one cares !!
jerry wall
John Loftus wrote:
>
> As I'm going through a frame off restoration on my BJ7 I am interested
> in returning things to an original condition. I have ordered the
> Concours guidelines but doubt that the following is discussed in detail.
>
> Years ago for reasons unknown to me, but probably insurance related, the
> car was stripped of the engine and chassis number plates and given a DMV
> (department of motor vehicle) number in California. The title doesn't
> say salvage but essentially it is a salvage title. No chassis numbers
> under the paint on the shock tower and the rear axle number was ground
> off and replaced with DMV number. There is a frame number 298 on the
> right shock tower near the radiator and some Jenson body numbers (A600)
> stamped on individual parts that match front and rear which at least
> indicates that it's not a pieced together car but there hasn't been a
> way for me to get the correct Heritage Certificate without the chassis
> and/or engine numbers. This is why I've never considered entering
> Concours. Can you even enter a car in Concours that has no id plates?
> What would the deduction be? Or any other suggestions for finding the
> true identity of the car and reversing the salvage title (note ... not
> willing to commit fraud.) Any other places to look for the chassis
> number on the frame?
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> / >
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:45:16 EDT
Subject: Re: oil pressure (2)
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
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From Biloselhir at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 17:52:45 EDT
Subject: wiring harness conections
Bill BN4OL75759 In week 54 of 12 week restoration
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 19:09:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Timing Light
Ned Paulsen
Rochester, NY
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:38:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Timing Light
I had a metal-cased Sears light (before it was stolen).
If you contact any metal on the chassis with the light's case it'll spark; which
can
a) ignite any flammable vapors
b) (possibly) destroy the timing light
c) put a spot-weld mark on your Healey metal
I apologize, I should have mentioned to get the plastic one (though the
metal ones look more impressive). I didn't think to mention it because
I haven't seen the metal ones at Sears for many years.
Bob
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> OK, now the problems. I just bought one from Sears (the last one they had)
> and, while it has instructions for positive ground cars, the instructions
> also say that the metal covered light can not be used for positive ground
> cars. There is apparently a plastic covered light that is good for positive
> ground. What harm is there in using the metal cased light on a positive
> ground car?
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
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From "Bill Elliott" <billelliott at kingwoodcable.net>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 19:05:54 -0500
Subject: Accelerator linkage adjustment
Thank you
Bill Elliott
GCHC
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 22:05:46 EDT
Subject: oil/water gauge (BJ8)
'67 BJ8
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From COPPIFAN at aol.com
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 22:07:56 EDT
Subject: heater controls (BJ8)
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From Dick Brill <dickbrill at yahoo.com>
From: Sherman D Taffel <mailto:staffel@comcast.net>
To: Jensen Cars <mailto:jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 19:42:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: heater controls (BJ8)
dickbrill@yahoo.com
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Bill Elliott" <billelliott@kingwoodcable.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 22:51:18 -0400
Subject: Accelerator linkage adjustment
> When I fully depress the accelerator on my BT7, I am not opening my
> carburetors fully. Is there a special technique for adjusting the
> accelerator/linkage to resolve this problem?
>
> Thank you
>
> Bill Elliott
> GCHC
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 22:55:05 -0400
Subject: wiring harness conections
> Just need some guesstimates as to hours to make the connections from the
> wiring harnesses (lights, dash, etc). Have just done enough already to
run
> the engine. I was scared to try this myself since I could not find any
> reference anywhere as to how to get the smoke put into the wiring system.
> The shop that is doing this was nebulous about times and I am paying by
the
> hour so just needed some loose guidelines. Getting closer and closer to
> going for a ride in my BN4 ! Will absolutely, positively be done by end
of
> year, maybe.
>
> Bill BN4OL75759 In week 54 of 12 week restoration
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From jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 20:08:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: sidescreen hardware
Joe
'67BJ8 '53BN1 #923
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 22:56:23 -0500
Subject: Re: oil/water gauge (BJ8)
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 9:05 PM
Subject: oil/water gauge (BJ8)
> Is this gauge difficult to replace. Where would I get one. Advice
> appreciated.
>
> '67 BJ8
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 00:09:34 EDT
Subject: Re: sump plug
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 07:07:27 -0400
Subject: Re: sump plug
Warren 67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:19:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: need oil pan
Rather than replacing your oil pan, you can repair your existing one
and improve on it, all in accordance with original procedures.
A friend of mine has just finished cutting out the bottom of a badly
beaten oil pan and welded in a new piece of metal. We had heard that
it is difficult to weld metal that has been soaked in oil, but no
problem was encountered. Then an oil pan protection plate was welded
in place, based on "Austin Service Journal" bulletin dated 11 Nov.
1960; No.A/306 which describes a 'sump protection plate' for Austin
Healey 3000 (BN7; BT7).
The bulletin states:
"To prevent sump damage in very rough country, a mild steel protection
plate (Fig. 1) may be welded to the sump in six places (Fig. 2).
Sumps should be drained and removed before welding. Arc-welding is
preferable if distortion is to be avoided and Si fbronze will also
enable a satisfactory job to be made."
Unfortunately, I can not scan a copy of the page which has the diagram
and figures outlining the plate's measurements, but if you are
interested, send me a fax number and I'll send a copy by that means.
I also have two spare oil pans which I will be cleaning up and putting
this protection plate on.
--Scott Morris ['62 3000 BT7 tricarb driver; '60 3000 BN7 project]
Simcoe, Ontario Canada
[519] 426-7139
--- Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote: << I am looking for a used oil pan for a 60
BT7 (should be the same for all 100-6 and 3000) Moss stock number
021-143 for the steel one or 021-148 for the alloy pan. I don't care
which one as long as it is in good condition with no repairs to it and
good flanges. A few dents on the bottom are o.k. --Price Tuley >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 08:49:30 -0700
Subject: Re: heater controls (BJ8)
Right - in. This is the air-to-heater contol and is probably best shut off
in hot weather.
Good luck, you'll probably cook anyway - it's a Healey!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <COPPIFAN@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 7:07 PM
Subject: heater controls (BJ8)
Last time I'll ask...in summer, What's the best position of the pull knobs?
Left in, out? right in or out? Trying my best to keep from cooking.
"67 BJ8
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From "allen s hodder" <ash173 at frontiernet.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 13:07:29 -0500
Subject: rear springs problem solved
Al
HBJ8L35791
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 16:55:47 -0400
Subject: Re: rear springs problem solved
I have a garage full of beer and have to borrow tools when needed.
Works for me, though.
CB
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 17:34:34 -0400
Subject: looking for some BN4 parts
Now that I have lots of baggies full of labeled parts, I can start trying to
replace the missing pieces. Specifically, I'm looking for the windshield
washer assembly. I need all of it, including the dual squirter and glass
bottle peculiar to the Longbridge BN4's. I haven't been able to find these
anywhere, so if anyone has them or knows where they exist, please let me know.
I'm also looking for the exhaust manifolds for the two port cylinder head. I
need both front and rear.
Now, I'm going to savor my victory over the heater, drink a well deserved
beer, & read some more archives!
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 17:30:15 -0500
Subject: Re: rear springs problem solved
I would love to help you get rid of some of that beer to make room for the
tools you need, but as you probably don't live in Texas and have Lone Star
I'll help you from a distance as best I can.
Jon
At 04:55 PM 8/31/02 -0400, you wrote:
> You have just identified one of MY problems!
>
> I have a garage full of beer and have to borrow tools when needed.
>
> Works for me, though.
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From "bjcap" <bjcap at frontiernet.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 21:11:23 -0400
Subject: re painting a Bj8
I would go ahead and clear your panels, the systems usually want base coats
cleared in a certain time frame to keep the chemical bond. You would have a
perfectly oil free surface upon painting your base, usually you paint clear
about 20 min.after base is . (whatever product recomends)
Touch ups can be done after with a little base then clear (both cataylized)
and hopefully not big scratches and touch wet sanded and buffed. The beauty
of clears is they can remain very workable and fixed easily. If you scratch
base ,touch ups will appear different than a sprayed coat.Clearing the
panels first will help protect the overall job.There is too much technical
stuff to try and explain all about the systems and dozen or so clears, but
have your paint jobber help you with the system that works best for your
application.
Carroll Phillips Top Down Restorations
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 22:05:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank on BJ8
Whenever I have checked the mileage on my BJ8, it has always been in the range
of 20 - 22 mpg (U.S. gallons). If you are getting only 12.6 mpg because of
running rich, you should have quite a bit of soot buildup on the tailpipes,
and probably should see black smoke from the pipes when the engine is running.
If so, the carbs need adjusting.
If not running rich, then you have a leak someplace, but a leak that size
should be obvious by the smell.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Williams
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 3:28 PM
Subject: Fuel Tank on BJ8
Hi all,
I checked the archive and didn't see this mentioned anywhere, but I did want
to confirm the fuel tank capacity on a BJ8. I believe it's 12 gallons,
correct?
Second question: most of the books I've read on the Ph II BJ8 say they
achieve ~20 MPG. I thought I was going through quite a bit of fuel and
checked my mileage recently and I'm at ~12.6 MPG. This seems especially
poor. Has anyone else experienced this?
GW
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 22:08:17 -0400
Subject: Re: South African listers - No Healey content
Don't know if there are any listers from S.A., but I do have a contact in S.A.
who has a BJ8. If interested, I could try to get in touch with him to let him
know of your interest.
Cheers!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: John Rowe
To: Healey List
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: South African listers - No Healey content
Hi All
Apologies for bombing the list but are there any South African members out
there who would care to contact me of list re S.A. contacts
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: <Biloselhir@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 01:28:05 -0400
Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
Thanks for the reply.
In the design of my box I reasoned that if both carbs are pulling from the
same box that the front carb would tend to "starve" the rear of air to a
measurable degree. Therefore, I had the metal shop install a separator
oriented vertically down the center of the box. It curves in to meet the
wall just aft of the front carb. This way each carb is getting its own air
supply presumably at the same flow rate and thus, at the same pressure. In
addition, it would seem to allow for more laminar flow of the air to the
carbs.
I don't exactly follow your explanation which sounds like the one I have
received from others too. The argument seems to center upon a difference in
pressure in the float bowls. With my setup I frankly don't see what would
cause any difference in pressure within the bowls as the velocity of air
through both carb bodies would be essentially the same and the vent of each
to the atmosphere would be the same.
I am no physicist or engineer so may just be showing my ingnorance.
Keith
> Hi Kieth,
> I only know from what I read in Geoff Healey's first book on the Big
Healey,
> that apparently when the engine is pulling hard at high speed there can be
a
> difference in the air pressures between the first and second float
chambers
> if the pressures aren't equalized by venting into the cold air box. I
> believe this may be linked to the fact that the air velocities of number
one
> and number two carb pulling from the common cold air box may be different
> than the pressures in the float chambers if they are just vented to
> atmosphere.
> Make any sense???
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
> To: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 10:51 AM
> Subject: Re: 100M carb vent pipes
>
>
> > Rich,
> >
> > I was rummaging through some old email and came across this.
> >
> > I added a Al cold air box to the BN7 a couple years ago. I am aware of
> the
> > routing of the overflow pipes on the M. I have seen those on the M of
> Bill
> > Parks, a good friend who lives nearby, and he has said the same thing as
> > you. Would you give me some more explanation of the need for the
> rerouting?
> >
> > I have not changed the overflow from stock on this 6 cyl engine. It
runs
> > just fine as is.
> >
> > Keith Pennell
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