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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 06:15:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Texas Cars
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: joe mulqueen
To: healey list
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 1:08 AM
Subject: Texas Cars
Hello,
I received my Heritage Certificate today - it only
took 8 days from Warwick, UK.
I pretty much knew most of my car's specs:
BT7 built Jan '60
Healey Blue/Blue
WW, OD Heater, Adjustable Column, etc.
What I didn't know was the destination - Fort Worth
USA (Texas).
Anyone know the story of the Fort Worth dealer?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Redondo Beach, CA
__________________________________________________
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From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 05:14:03 -0800
Subject: Re: HD8 AIR CLEANERS
> If I am not mistaken, the metal mesh air cleaners VB
> sells have foam elements. If that's the case you
> should just go with the ramflos , they work better and
> are easier to maintain.
Agreed. I bought these metal mesh/foam filters from VB ("Evenflo" brand,
I think) some years ago. They are adequate at best. They consist of a chrome
backing plate, a plastic basket to back the foam, foam element, a chrome metal
mesh covering the foam and a clunky clip to hold it all together.
They are awkward to disassemble and re-assemble. The main problem, however,
is that they are supplied with 1/4" ID plastic right-angle fittings for the
crankcase
bypass hose. Unless your engine produces VERY little blow-by (not likely) this
will block the flow from the crankcase into the carburetor. In my case, this
resulted in excessive pressure under the valve cover and subsequent oil leaks
out the cover. I was on a long road trip at the time and my efforts to stop the
leaking resulted in destroying the valve cover.
No experience with the ramflos.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Sid Bronson" <bron@rmci.net>; "healey forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: HD8 AIR CLEANERS
> Hi Sid -
>
> I've been using VB's Ramflo foam filters on my BJ8 for
> 15 years. My engine has 60K miles on it and it has
> perfect balanced compression and doesn't burn any oil.
> The Ramflo filters are great, and the elements can be
> washed, oiled and reused with ease. I've only
> replaced the elements once in 15 years of solid use.
> They work very well to catch dust & other
> contaminants.
>
> On my BN1 I use paper/cotton filters very similar to
> the original burgess filters and they work wonders.
> The filters aren't cheap but replacing them every 5K
> miles is easy and I know the motor is protected.
>
> If I am not mistaken, the metal mesh air cleaners VB
> sells have foam elements. If that's the case you
> should just go with the ramflos , they work better and
> are easier to maintain.
>
> If you want to go with a paper filter... I seem to
> recall someone on this list a few months back posted
> info on how to put a paper filter on a BJ8....
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>
>
>
> --- Sid Bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
> > It seems to me that the metal mesh air cleaners for
> > the HD8 are some what
> > inadequate. British Victoria offers a filter for
> > HD8's. Has anyone been
> > useing them and how do they fit. Do they have an
> > effective replaceable
> > filter.
> > Sid 65 BJ8
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 09:03:35 -0500
Subject: Re: PVGP 2003 - Saturday & Sunday
www.pittsburghvintagegrandprix.com
and
www.wptriumph.org
If anyone is unsuccessful at these sites, please contact me closer to the
end of May and I'll get the applications out to you.
An advance notice if you are planning to join us on Sunday, on Flagstaff
Hill, will allow us to secure enough parking to accommodate everyone. Contact
for that would be Tom Felts - tfelts@prodigy.net - or me at cbaustin@sgi.net
For an additional boost go to www.vscca.com and check out photos (lots of
photos) from past year's PVGP.
There, that should keep you busy for an hour or so, and out of trouble!
See you at the races.
CB
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 07:40:27 -0800
Subject: Heritage Certificate
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 11:18:20 EST
Subject: Heater tap
So, I recall a thread about a month ago on this....
Can anyone tell me how the little lever attached?
Screw in? What was the thread? tough one, that.
Push in?
Was the tap brass and the handle ditto?
What else do I need to know?
Or, does anyone have one to sell, trade, pass on to this good home? etc??
Simon.
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 08:35:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Differential number
If you lift the battery cover, you should be able to
see the numbers stamped on the top of the diff. You
may have to do some cleaning or inductive reasoning as
not all the number stamps could be found on the day
they stamped my diff. Must have been close to closing
time...
Dean BN7
Could anyone tell me exactly
> where I could find that
> number?
>
> Thanks in advancej.
> Ned Paulsen
> 60 BN7
>
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From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 18:27:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Heritage Certificate
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/trace.htm
--
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 12:43:18 -0800
Subject: Re: HD8 AIR CLEANERS
Bob Spidell wrote:
>WRT:
>
>If I am not mistaken, the metal mesh air cleaners VB sells have foam elements.
> If that's the case you should just go with the ramflos , they work better and
>are easier to maintain.
>
>
>Agreed. I bought these metal mesh/foam filters from VB ("Evenflo" brand,
>I think) some years ago. They are adequate at best. They consist of a chrome
>backing plate, a plastic basket to back the foam, foam element, a chrome metal
>mesh covering the foam and a clunky clip to hold it all together.
>
>They are awkward to disassemble and re-assemble. The main problem, however,
>is that they are supplied with 1/4" ID plastic right-angle fittings for the
>crankcase bypass hose. Unless your engine produces VERY little blow-by (not
>likely) this will block the flow from the crankcase into the carburetor. In
>my case, this resulted in excessive pressure under the valve cover and
>subsequent oil leaks out the cover. I was on a long road trip at the time and
>my efforts to stop the leaking resulted in destroying the valve cover.
>
>No experience with the ramflos.
>
>bs
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From Win <win at gmi.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 15:12:35 -0600
Subject: Healey Insurance
Win Graham
'63 BJ7
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 13:33:13 -0800
Subject: Size of Woodruff key
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:11:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Insurance
Mark
> What does everyone do about insurance for your cars? Do you have a normal
> policy? I have heard that there are policies for antique cars that only
get
> driven a certain number of miles. Anyone know anything about this?
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 17:32:47 -0500
Subject: a little help
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From Joseph Smathers <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 18:10:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Insurance
Try Hagerty Insurance @ www.hagerty.com
You can increase the limits on their basic policy for just a few dollars
more. My insurance on 2 Healeys dropped from $1,200 to less than $300 a year.
Best regards, Joe
1955 100
1960 3000
At 04:12 PM 4/1/2003, you wrote:
>What does everyone do about insurance for your cars? Do you have a normal
>policy? I have heard that there are policies for antique cars that only get
>driven a certain number of miles. Anyone know anything about this?
>
>Win Graham
>'63 BJ7
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:14:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Healey Insurance]
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Healey Insurance
From: Joseph Smathers <healey27@mindspring.com>
To: Win <win@gmi.net>
Win,
Try Hagerty Insurance @ www.hagerty.com
You can increase the limits on their basic policy for just a few dollars
more. My insurance on 2 Healeys dropped from $1,200 to less than $300 a
year.
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 17:46:47 -0500
Subject: 100-4 for sale
I am offering my 100-4 for sale. The car was built 8/9/53, chassis
number BN1L147371, body number 691, color Healey blue w/dark blue
interior. Actual mileage on the car is 9,692, repeat 9,692. The tires
are the original Dunlop Roadspeed tires (good for local cruising but I
don't take it on the expressway), the spare is the original of course
and has never been on the ground. All the original tools, jack,
knock-off hammer are in their original bags. The solid one piece
Perspex side screens are in their original bag. Engine has had valves
replaced in order to burn unleaded fuel, modern oil seals have been
installed in the timing cover and rear main. New clutch and throwout
bearing. New brake lines and master cylinder is rebuilt. Carbs rebuilt
and and all items in engine bay done as original. The seats are fair
(leather gets a little dry after fifty years), carpeting is good to
excellent. Runs and drives like it did in 1953. One of the few
original low mileage Healeys. I won't sell anything separately, i.e
tools, side screens, etc. I've tried to be as accurate as possible in
my description. If interested please conact me off line -
dwhite4949@earthlink.net and I'll get back to you. Thanks, Dan.
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 10:13:50 +1000
Subject: Gearbox Question
I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see today.
I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer to a
personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago and the
indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a toothed
cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides along it. The
second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents and
balls live and the piece that slides along it.
Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with me.
HELP
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 19:26:03 EST
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
<< What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents
and balls live and the piece that slides along it. >>
Not silly questions.
The selector rods have the "detents" on them that the balls rest in to hold
the selector in place. the main selector fork has a place where the spring
and ball "live".
There are also springs and balls holding the striker on the synchronizers
(3?).
Rick
San Diego
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 16:35:57 -0800
Subject: Front suspension question.
Front suspension: Should the lower link arms (one connects to the frame, and
the other end connects at base of the king pin) rotate on the bush (front &
rear) or should the bush rotate on the threaded portion of the fulcrum pin
lower link (this is the pin that extends through the lower trunnion of the
king pin. Hopefully my explanation is clear enough to follow.
I assembled all this last night on one side of the BN7 chassis, and followed
the directions in the service manual. After tightening the front and rear
bush and backing off as suggested, and then tightening the two cotter pins,
the bush is held secure in the lower links, and the threaded portion of the
bush rotates on the threaded portion of the fulcrum pin (is this how it's
supposed to work). I don't think so.
I think the lower links should rotate on the bush (if so, then all I should
have to do is back off slightly on the cotter pin nut). Am I correct?
Any advice would be appreciated. This is my first time doing this assembly,
and I don't want to mess it up.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 19:56:12 EST
Subject: Re: Front suspension question.
There were a couple of pieces that I say at kevins last saturday after you
picked up the car. They will need to be painted and installed on the firewall
first, before the insulation and the wiring.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 18:08:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
The forks are moved by the shift linkage and slide on the rods. This is a
little unconventional as the forks in most trannys are normally secured to the
rods, which slide in journals in the tranny cover.
The instructions for reassembly call for a dummy shaft to be used to assemble
the detent pieces in the forks. When I did it I found that a properly sized and
lubricated hardwood dowel works just fine.
Good luck with your article.
Bill (Warmonger) Lawrence
Albuquerque, NM, USA
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> G'day
>
> I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see
>today.
>
> I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer to
>a personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago and the
>indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
>
> My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a toothed
>cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides along it. The
>second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
>
> What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents and
>balls live and the piece that slides along it.
>
> Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
>
> I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with me.
>
> HELP
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
> **********************************************************************
> This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
> privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
> are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
> **********************************************************************
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From "John Rowe" <jarowe at westnet.com.au>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:18:22 +0800
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
On your model with a side shift the indent balls are held in horizontal
holes in the edge of the main gear case. Springs in the holes keep pressure
on the balls against the selector rods. The whole lot is held on by the side
cover. If one undoes the side cover the springs press outwards against the
cover and when the side cover is removed, voila. Balls and springs
everywhere. (Hopefully only the first time).
Hope this helps and keep up the good articles.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:13 AM
Subject: Gearbox Question
> G'day
>
> I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see
today.
>
> I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer
to a personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago
and the indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
>
> My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a
toothed cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides along
it. The second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
>
> What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents
and balls live and the piece that slides along it.
>
> Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
>
> I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with
me.
>
> HELP
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:24:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Healey Insurance
I've used State Farm in California for years. Thier
rates are low, and provide comprehensive & complete
coverage for my Healey, and allow me to set the value
of my healey as I see fit.
If your State Farm agent in you city is not helpful,
you can also try www.hagerty.com - they also have
excellent insurance coverage... the only reason I
don't use them is I like having a local agent to talk
to. Hagerty is great for specialty insurance too,
like overseas shipping or stuff like that....
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Win <win@gmi.net> wrote:
> What does everyone do about insurance for your cars?
> Do you have a normal
> policy? I have heard that there are policies for
> antique cars that only get
> driven a certain number of miles. Anyone know
> anything about this?
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:07:47 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ8 switch panel covering
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
> >
> > I plan on doing my interior in dark blue. Is the metal panel between
the
> > wood dash halves supposed to be covered in black vinyl, or should it
match
> > the rest of the interior color?
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From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at cox.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:21:16 -0600
Subject: Re: Healey Insurance
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 21:32:38 EST
Subject: Looking for Len Harnett
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 21:36:43 -0500
Subject: RE: Front suspension question.
Actually you have put it together correctly. The bush is locked in the
arm by the cotter pin with the curved cut out. Don't tighten the bush
all the way in before you tighten the nut on the cotter pin or you will
find that he car won't go up and down.
The trick is to assemble the suspension, before you install the spring,
whit the suspension in mid travel. You tighten the bushes all the way in
then back out about 1 flat. Then tighten the cotter pin. (don't over
tighten or you will distort the bush)
This will allow the bush to move in and out slightly as it turns on the
thread as the suspension works.
The threaded fulcrum pin is locked securely in the bottom of the king
pin by the tapered cotter and the threaded bushes are locked securely in
the lower arms by the half moon cotters.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Golding, Frank
Sent: 1-Apr-03 7:36 PM
To: austin healey
Subject: Front suspension question.
List,
Front suspension: Should the lower link arms (one connects to the frame,
and
the other end connects at base of the king pin) rotate on the bush
(front &
rear) or should the bush rotate on the threaded portion of the fulcrum
pin
lower link (this is the pin that extends through the lower trunnion of
the
king pin. Hopefully my explanation is clear enough to follow.
I assembled all this last night on one side of the BN7 chassis, and
followed
the directions in the service manual. After tightening the front and
rear
bush and backing off as suggested, and then tightening the two cotter
pins,
the bush is held secure in the lower links, and the threaded portion of
the
bush rotates on the threaded portion of the fulcrum pin (is this how
it's
supposed to work). I don't think so.
I think the lower links should rotate on the bush (if so, then all I
should
have to do is back off slightly on the cotter pin nut). Am I correct?
Any advice would be appreciated. This is my first time doing this
assembly,
and I don't want to mess it up.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7
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From john sawyer <jrsawyer2002 at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 18:48:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Alternator & Starter Info needed
Also has anyone found an off the shelf, ie. NAPA, autozone etc. starter that
fits and works well ?
Thanks
John Sawyer 65 / 67 BJ8
---------------------------------
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 18:56:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
So far, the posts in response to you gearbox 'thingy' thing have missed the
point, I think.
I believe what you are referring to are the 2 sliding hub assemblies -
the1-2, and the 3-4. Each assembly locates it's 2 pieces in 'the out of
gear' position with three sets of detent balls and springs, with the balls
locating in a groove in one of the members of the sliding hub. The selector
forks move the outer member of each sliding hub into postion to deliver
power through the selected gear. I too have had a few of these 'insane'
detent balls thrown into the far corners of my garage!
The other 3 detent balls & springs are located in the transmission case,
held in place by either the side or top covers, and allow the selector rods
(and forks) to hold their correct postion for either neutral or gear
engagement, depending again on the gear selected. The selector forks are
pinned to the rods with a special square-headed bolt safety wired in place.
There are an additional two balls located in the case between the selector
rods that act as an interlock to prevent more than one rod at a time from
moving, thereby making one helluva very expensive mess of the gearbox.
Lot's of fun - gearbox work, isn't it!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 4:13 PM
Subject: Gearbox Question
G'day
I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see
today.
I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer to
a personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago and
the indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a
toothed cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides along
it. The second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents
and balls live and the piece that slides along it.
Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with me.
HELP
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:21:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternator & Starter Info needed
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: john sawyer
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:48 PM
Subject: Alternator & Starter Info needed
Have decided to go with negative ground on the BJ8 project and install an
alternator. Can anyone suggest an alternator that can bolt up properly to the
side cover and adjust to align the pulleys ?
Also has anyone found an off the shelf, ie. NAPA, autozone etc. starter that
fits and works well ?
Thanks
John Sawyer 65 / 67 BJ8
---------------------------------
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From "Bert Kleinschmidt" <rsk at relaypoint.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 19:36:42 -0800
Subject: RE Gearbox Question
If I understand your description correctly, you are referring to the three
balls and springs that reside in the "synchronizers" and push outward
against either the "striking dog" or the "first gear".
I got these names from the Moss Motors online catalog for the BN1 3speed
transmission:
http://www.mossmotors.com/cgi-bin/db2www/mossmotors/MossUSA/Shop/ViewProduct
s.mac/report?T=71044&ModelID=10000&PlateID=2341
The parts in question are parts 124 and 137 for the synchronizer, part 123
for the first gear, and part 136 for the striking dog.
These ball and springs provide the detents which hold the gears of the
transmission "in gear."
Regards,
Bert.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
To: "Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:13 AM
Subject: Gearbox Question
> G'day
>
> I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see
today.
>
> I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer
to a personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago
and the indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
>
> My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a
toothed cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides along
it. The second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
>
> What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents
and balls live and the piece that slides along it.
>
> Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
>
> I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with
me.
>
> HELP
>
> Regards
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Sydney, Australia
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:39:04 EST
Subject: Smoothcase question
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 03:43:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Alternator & Starter Info needed
> Have decided to go with negative ground on the BJ8 project and install an
> alternator. Can anyone suggest an alternator that can bolt up properly to the
> side cover and adjust to align the pulleys ?
>
> Also has anyone found an off the shelf, ie. NAPA, autozone etc. starter that
> fits and works well ?
>
> Thanks
>
> John Sawyer 65 / 67 BJ8
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:48:03 -0500
Subject: Dipswitch Bracket Question
Anybody know if the headlight dipswitch bracket on a BN7 is held by
2 captive nuts (welded) on the underside of the toeboard, or if there
are 2 unatached 1/4"nuts at the other end of the screws .I am talking
about the bracket that holds the switch itself that is screwed to the
floor (toeboard) The BMC manual as I understand it says it should be
a plain nut , unwelded on the underside. But I recently saw a similar
car with what looked like a captive nut there. Anyone remember how it
is fastened on their car, and are those holes larger than 1/4" I have
a repro toeboard that has what looks like 3/8" holes for that
bracket. That correct or whut? Thanks for your help guys.
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 23:52:29 -0800
Subject: Windshield frame to shroud seal
Need to install the seal which goes in the channel on the base of the
windshield frame (BJ7). Am I correct in observing on my BJ8 that the channel
fitting portion of the seal is cut off at the end of where it fits into the
frame? And that the remaining flat part of the seal then extends around the
side pillars and over and underneath the edge of the rear of the fender?
Want to be sure before I butcher the seal
Keith Pennell
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:42:11 -0800
Subject: wire harness routing
Thanks Mucho,
Greg
67 BJ8
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 05:13:28 -0600
Subject: wire harness routing
"What does everyone do about insurance for your cars? Do you have a normal
policy? I have heard that there are policies for antique cars that only get
driven a certain number of miles. Anyone know anything about this?"
Hi Win:
When I had my BN7 I insured it on a "declared value" basis. I provided
pictures to the insurance company and we agreed on a "declared value" and
they sold me they policy. Depending on where you live, there are many
companies that specialize in insuring antique or collectable cars.
Don
BN7 Sold!
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 06:07:22 EST
Subject: Generator
Three questions:
1. My auto electric shop can have it rewound, but says it will take 5-6
weeks.
I'm in the Northeast. Does anyone know of a good place to have this
rebuilt quickly?
2. I have some other generators from other British cars (earlier Healeys,
Triumph, Jag) Does anyone have any parts lists that would tell if the
armature from another application will fit this particular generator?
3. Is there anybody out there with a BJ8 generator that they would sell
me? This could even be something with a cracked case - I only need the
armature.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
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From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:15:41 EST
Subject: Re: Alternator & Starter Info needed
First I bought an alternator conversion kit from Denis Welch. It was a Lucas
alternator
The reason I used a Delco SI 10 alternator for the conversion is they are as
common as Fire Ants in Texas and you can get one from most any parts house.
It also has an internal regulator. Lucas earned their reputation!
It did not come with any instructions
You can see the alternator conversion along with some pics and instructions
on the North Texas AH Club web site under tech tips <A HREF="www.ntahc.org">
ntahc.org</A> Included with the kit is a wiring diagram and instructions.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
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From <alan at andysnet.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 07:23:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Windshield frame to shroud seal
Alan HBJ8L/34297
>
> Need to install the seal which goes in the channel on the base of the
> windshield frame (BJ7). Am I correct in observing on my BJ8 that the
> channel fitting portion of the seal is cut off at the end of where it
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:46:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
Patrick: I'm sure by now you have finally accessed the BN1 manual and found
the answers to your questions.
Just my $.02
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Quinn, Patrick" <patrick.quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
> Patrick:
>
> So far, the posts in response to you gearbox 'thingy' thing have missed
the
> point, I think.
>
> I believe what you are referring to are the 2 sliding hub assemblies -
> the1-2, and the 3-4. Each assembly locates it's 2 pieces in 'the out of
> gear' position with three sets of detent balls and springs, with the balls
> locating in a groove in one of the members of the sliding hub. The
selector
> forks move the outer member of each sliding hub into postion to deliver
> power through the selected gear. I too have had a few of these 'insane'
> detent balls thrown into the far corners of my garage!
>
> The other 3 detent balls & springs are located in the transmission case,
> held in place by either the side or top covers, and allow the selector
rods
> (and forks) to hold their correct postion for either neutral or gear
> engagement, depending again on the gear selected. The selector forks are
> pinned to the rods with a special square-headed bolt safety wired in
place.
> There are an additional two balls located in the case between the selector
> rods that act as an interlock to prevent more than one rod at a time from
> moving, thereby making one helluva very expensive mess of the gearbox.
>
> Lot's of fun - gearbox work, isn't it!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B. C. Canada
> '62 BT7 tri-carb
> '67 BJ8
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au>
> To: "Healey (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 4:13 PM
> Subject: Gearbox Question
>
>
> G'day
>
> I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see
> today.
>
> I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer
to
> a personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago and
> the indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
>
> My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a
> toothed cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides
along
> it. The second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
>
> What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents
> and balls live and the piece that slides along it.
>
> Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
>
> I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with
me.
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From daniel white <dwhite4949 at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:48:53 -0500
Subject: More info re 100-4 for sale
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:20:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Dipswitch Bracket Question
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:48 PM
Subject: Dipswitch Bracket Question
> Question:
>
> Anybody know if the headlight dipswitch bracket on a BN7 is held by
> 2 captive nuts (welded) on the underside of the toeboard, or if there
> are 2 unatached 1/4"nuts at the other end of the screws .I am talking
> about the bracket that holds the switch itself that is screwed to the
> floor (toeboard) The BMC manual as I understand it says it should be
> a plain nut , unwelded on the underside. But I recently saw a similar
> car with what looked like a captive nut there. Anyone remember how it
> is fastened on their car, and are those holes larger than 1/4" I have
> a repro toeboard that has what looks like 3/8" holes for that
> bracket. That correct or whut? Thanks for your help guys.
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 bits
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From "Ph.J.Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 21:35:43 +0200
Subject: Disc brake callipers
The previous owner of my BJ8 took, among other things, the pistons out of the
callipers and left the assemblies lying in a damp shed for 11 years.
Logically the bores are oxidised/rusted and in order to properly clean them I
need to separate the two calliper halves.
However, the Workshop Manual states in bold print that "No attempt should be
made to remove the bridge bolts joining the two halves of the calliper."
Question: what horrible things will happen when I do take the two halves
apart?
Your comments are welcome.
TIA
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 15:21:58 EST
Subject: Re: Alternator & Starter Info needed
> First I bought an alternator conversion kit from Denis Welch. It was a
> Lucas
> alternator The reason I used a Delco SI 10 alternator for the conversion is
> they are as common as Fire Ants in Texas and you can get one from most any
> parts house. It also has an internal regulator. Lucas earned their
> reputation!
>
I also purchased a DW Alternator kit for my 100, as they claimed that it
could be fit with a wide pulley (the 4-cylinder cars use a 5/8" belt) and
thereby save having to convert the waterpump and crank pulleys.
Unfortunately, my experience with the Lucas 35 Amp alternator was about the
same as Don's--it lasted a few hours and the plastic unit that holds the
diodes melted on me!
I returned the alternator and pulley to DW for refund but kept the excellent
and attractive cast AL mounting bracket, then went to my local alternator
shop and purchased a Leece-Neville (sold under the Unlite name) 70 amp
alternator with built-in regulator that has a two-piece pulley which can be
shimmed to accept the wide belt.
This was three years ago--no trouble since!
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Brett Bonner <bbbonner at fedex.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 14:32:10 -0600
Subject: Carb kit/bushings for SU HD6's
The carbs work just fine.
Question - is this what the cork washers are used for?
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 15:51:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Disc brake callipers
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 22:01:21 +0000
Subject: Heritage Certificate: Missing Build Record
I recently made my second attempt to receive a Heritage certificate for my '55
BN1 (new to me in December '01). I just received a very polite e-mail from
them stating that "the build record is missing". I am bummed. Has this ever
happened to anyone else? Is it common? I can only trace the car back to
Arizona around 1992. The seller told me he believed the car to have originally
been Healey Blue and made without a heater. It is now Black (and I can find no
trace that has ever been another color) with red interior and has no heater
and I was a bit curious to see what the certificate said.
--Bummed in Bedford
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 00:06:41 +0200
Subject: Re: Disc brake callipers
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 18:45:46 -0600
Subject: 53 BN1 for sale in Dallas, TX
Brian Collins
Dallas, TX
214-321-7688
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From "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 21:01:38 -0500
Subject: 100-6 carb backfire
Newly rebuilt engine, the timing is 15 deg. at 900 rpm idle with vacuum
disconnected. Mechanical advance seems to work, and we've tuned the carbs
by the book using a Uni-syn, piston-lift mixture method, and ensuring the
slow-run screws are correct. When we purposely set the mixture to richest,
it backfired less, but something is still wrong. We've inspected the cap,
points, and rotor, dashpot oil, all seem normal. Slow acceleration is
normal, and power is good, but when you goose it, it coughs.
The carbs were out of sync, but the Uni-syn now shows the air intake is
even. Now they backfire at the same time! The archives don't have much. Is
this a sudden decrease in vacuum?
Neal G.
61 BT7
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:04:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Disc brake callipers
"<<Question: what horrible things will happen when I do take the two halves
apart?>>
Contrary to JW and MK's comments; ANYTHING.
The IS a Girling Service Bulletin (my copy is in a book on loan) stating
that only NEW bolts be used for re-assembly as the torque "stretch" is
compromised in ONE use.
Notice that in NO catalog there is NO mention of replacement bolts??
Notice the square cut "o" ring does NOT come in any of the kits??
Guess why??
Even I would not want to pay the Product Liability Insurance premiums on
rebuilt calipers!!! er, nor could I afford too!!!
Do NOT do split, PLEASE!!!
RE-builts (legit) are available.
Regards.............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ yrs)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at: www.justbrits.com
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 21:23:42 EST
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire
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From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 21:29:10 EST
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire (sorry, my cat sent it)
Anyway let's take it from:
The unisyn is worthless also. The SU kit is a better option. For similar
test, remove the dashpot damper caps and put a piece of wire in each piston
bent toward the other carb. You can then see exactly where each piston is in
relation to the other in real time with the aircleaners on. If you want I can
send a drawing of that test.
The dashpots dampers and manifold leaks are the first real place to look for
causes of the hiccup.
Rick
San Diego
BN6 http://members.aol.com/wilko
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 22:00:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Disc brake callipers
BTW the bolts are not tighten to yield bolts because they (tighten to
yield bolts) always have especially machined flats on the ends used to
measure the stretch. Tighten to yield bolts are almost unheard of in the
automotive industry because they take too long to install correctly.
Tighten, measure, tighten, measure, etc, etc, ask anyone who has built
gas turbine engines.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: 2-Apr-03 9:05 PM
To: Ph.J.Aeckerlin; Healey users website
Subject: Re: Disc brake callipers
Ed says:
"<<Question: what horrible things will happen when I do take the two
halves
apart?>>
Contrary to JW and MK's comments; ANYTHING.
The IS a Girling Service Bulletin (my copy is in a book on loan) stating
that only NEW bolts be used for re-assembly as the torque "stretch" is
compromised in ONE use.
Notice that in NO catalog there is NO mention of replacement bolts??
Notice the square cut "o" ring does NOT come in any of the kits??
Guess why??
Even I would not want to pay the Product Liability Insurance premiums on
rebuilt calipers!!! er, nor could I afford too!!!
Do NOT do split, PLEASE!!!
RE-builts (legit) are available.
Regards.............
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA (20+ yrs)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Please visit my web site at: www.justbrits.com
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 03:04:42 +0000
Subject: Re: your mail
Be careful on "declared value" policies. The insurance company may not honor
the declaration after time. However "agreed value" policies is an agreement
between you and the insurer that the value is set at "X" value and if the car
is stolen or totalled they agree to pay the whole amount.
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
> Win Graham wrote:
>
>
> "What does everyone do about insurance for your cars? Do you have a normal
> policy? I have heard that there are policies for antique cars that only get
> driven a certain number of miles. Anyone know anything about this?"
>
> Hi Win:
> When I had my BN7 I insured it on a "declared value" basis. I provided
> pictures to the insurance company and we agreed on a "declared value" and
> they sold me they policy. Depending on where you live, there are many
> companies that specialize in insuring antique or collectable cars.
>
> Don
> BN7 Sold!
>
>
>
> "Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
> breath away"
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From MOWOGMAN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 22:07:12 EST
Subject: wire wheels on offer, from the wedge list.............
> RON,
> THESE ARE 72 SPOKE , CHROME, DUNLOPS. THEY HAVE NEVER BEEN MOUNTED.
> I BOUGHT THEM YEARS AGO FOR MY 1967 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000.
> I GOT THEM FROM MOSS MOTORS IN GOLETA CALIF. FOR $300.00 APIECE.
> I'D BE WILLING TO TAKE $900.00 FOR THE SET OF FOUR -BUT NO LESS.
> ANYONE INTERESTED, CAN CALL ME AT 658-8226 MOST ANY TIME.
> THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
> DUKE
>
This was forwarded to the TR7/8 list, if any one is interested?
I have no connection whatsoever, just forwarding
John, Oostburg, WI
Home of:
'60 AH 3000
'60 Austin Mini
'69 Austin America
'80 Triumph TR8 Coupe
'80 Triumph TR7 DHC
'57 BMW Isetta
'39 Dodge Coupe
'86 Jaguar XJ6
(more always welcome!)
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From: Tr8ron@aol.com
Message-ID: <103.2afe8637.2bbccc7b@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 18:30:03 EST
Subject: Fwd: Triumph or Austin Healy Wheels Non Wedge Topic
To: tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu
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Hi All,
>From reading many posts on this great list there are many multiple TR car
marque owners so thought this might be of interest. Met this guy at a Model A
Ford meeting that I attended as a guest. NFI Just thought I'd send it on.
Ron Bonelli
TR8 81 Fi DHC AC
TR 3A 62
Las Vegas, NV
PS Area code for Vegas is 702
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To: <Tr8ron@aol.com>
References: <27.3cd41478.2bb3761d@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Triumph or Austin Healy Wheels
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 10:47:24 -0800
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RON,
THESE ARE 72 SPOKE , CHROME, DUNLOPS. THEY HAVE NEVER BEEN MOUNTED.
I BOUGHT THEM YEARS AGO FOR MY 1967 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000.
I GOT THEM FROM MOSS MOTORS IN GOLETA CALIF. FOR $300.00 APIECE.
I'D BE WILLING TO TAKE $900.00 FOR THE SET OF FOUR -BUT NO LESS.
ANYONE INTERESTED, CAN CALL ME AT 658-8226 MOST ANY TIME.
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
DUKE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tr8ron@aol.com
To: duketendvahl@msn.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 1:31 PM
Subject: Triumph or Austin Healy Wheels
Duke, send me all the info regarding the wheels: price,size,condition,etc.
and I will forward it to the Triumph list I'm on. Never know, may find someone
interested.
Ron Bonelli
TR3A 62
TR8 81 Fi DHC AC
Las Vegas, NV
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 22:55:01 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire
Others much more knowledgeable about carbs than I have replied, but I wish
to share two points. First is that balance the carbs by ear. Use a short
length of rubber tubing and a good ear for pitch. Get the hiss the
same/note. I won't say the Unisyn is junk but it does not agree with my
ear.
Second point is that on multiple occasions I have experienced the problem
you describe on my car and on a couple others. Try the easy solution first.
See to it that the carb piston dampers have oil. You don't want to
overfill, almost to the top of the tube in the piston. Oil weight has some
effect and you will get several rec on this. My preference is good old 30
wt.
Let us know what the solution is
Keith Pennell
> What's the collective wisdom on what causes the HD-6 carbs to backfire on
> hard throttle?
>
> Newly rebuilt engine, the timing is 15 deg. at 900 rpm idle with vacuum
> disconnected. Mechanical advance seems to work, and we've tuned the carbs
> by the book using a Uni-syn, piston-lift mixture method, and ensuring the
> slow-run screws are correct. When we purposely set the mixture to
richest,
> it backfired less, but something is still wrong. We've inspected the cap,
> points, and rotor, dashpot oil, all seem normal. Slow acceleration is
> normal, and power is good, but when you goose it, it coughs.
>
>
> The carbs were out of sync, but the Uni-syn now shows the air intake is
> even. Now they backfire at the same time! The archives don't have much.
Is
> this a sudden decrease in vacuum?
>
> Neal G.
> 61 BT7
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:47:06 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire (sorry, my cat sent it)
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire (sorry, my cat sent it)
> My cat hit the send button and added some intersting stuff...
>
> Anyway let's take it from:
> The unisyn is worthless also. The SU kit is a better option.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 23:23:13 -0600
Subject: Steering Gear Questions
1. The tie rods and cross rods seem very tight and don't have much grease on
them, the cross rods have no zerks or zerk holes that I can see, by tight I
mean I can move them by hand but it is a little bit of an effort. Is the
tightness normal,?
2. Any good tricks for preserving more or less the front end alingment,
i.e. getting the tie rods at the same extension as the old ones?
3. I have a BN1 with the old steering box (no adjuster on top), I
understand there are shims on the top cover and the end cover that adjust
play, I understand what the top cover shims do, but not the end shims.
4. The box seems to have play in the shaft coming out the bottom (sideways
play when I turn the steeering wheel), can this likely be adjusted out with
the shims, or does it need to be rebushed, manual doesn't really go into the
bushing, does it need to be machined in or out?
Sorry for so many questions, thanks in advance for the answers,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 08:03:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Gear Questions
But that brings me to the question I have for the list. Upon testing the new
steering coming in to work this morning, I found that any movement of the
steering wheel from straight forward caused the tires to protest. My commute
sounded like the soundtrack from a cheap car chase movie. The car tracked
straight and seemed to handle fine except for the squealing tires. I made no
(intentional) changes to the front end alignment when I disassembled the
connections to pull the steering column out. Tire pressures are all at about
31 psi on Michelins, and the noise seems to be coming only from the fronts and
in both directions I turn. After 2 1/2 yrs of rehab work, this is the first
time I've driven the car so I don't have the benefit of previous experience.
Any ideas as to what I should look at first to make my drive in to the office
less dramatic sounding?
Randy Cooper
BT7
***
3. I have a BN1 with the old steering box (no adjuster on top), I
understand there are shims on the top cover and the end cover that adjust
play, I understand what the top cover shims do, but not the end shims.
4. The box seems to have play in the shaft coming out the bottom (sideways
play when I turn the steeering wheel), can this likely be adjusted out with
the shims, or does it need to be rebushed, manual doesn't really go into the
bushing, does it need to be machined in or out?
Sorry for so many questions, thanks in advance for the answers,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
/
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 05:28:39 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
>
> Second point is that on multiple occasions I have experienced the problem
> you describe on my car and on a couple others. Try the easy solution
first.
> See to it that the carb piston dampers have oil. You don't want to
> overfill, almost to the top of the tube in the piston. Oil weight has
some
> effect and you will get several rec on this. My preference is good old 30
> wt.
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From nickz at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 15:18:30 +0000
Subject: Removable rear view mirror
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
BJ8
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 11:09:18 -0500
Subject: BJ7 User Manual
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 17:23:50 +0000
Subject: RE: Detachable Mirror
Cape has a version. Look at www.cape-international.com.
--Michael
'55 BN1 (with no birth certificate!)
>> A friend of mine told me that at a British car show he show a MGA with a
>> removable rear view mirror. I have had my BJ8 for two years now and can
>> make up my mind where to install a mirror ( I like the looks of the car
with
>>out the mirror) has anybody heard of such a thing?
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 12:44:42 -0500
Subject: RE: Removable rear view mirror
I just installed a homebrew removable mirror on my BT7. I started with an
old bullet-shaped Radyot mirror. I then installed a new 4-in. long bolt to
fit in the roadster's forward side curtain well. That involved re-drilling
the mirror mount.
I also carved a small piece of teak to act as a buffer between the door
panel and the original mirror's pedestal.
On the inside of the car I have fitted a wing nut for quick installation and
removal.
Of course, I can't use it when it's raining and the curtain is in place, but
I don't do too much puddle jumping in the Blue Mainie anyway.
If you'd like to see a JPEG or two, I could send 'em to you.
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of nickz@attbi.com
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 10:19 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Removable rear view mirror
A friend of mine told me that at a British car show he show a MGA with a
removable rear view mirror. I have had my BJ8 for two years now and can
make up my mind where to install a mirror ( I like the looks of the car with
out the mirror) has anybody heard of such a thing?
Thanks
Nick Zarkades
BJ8
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From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 10:09:20 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 User Manual
> From: "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu>
> Reply-To: "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu>
> Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 11:09:18 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: BJ7 User Manual
>
> I am looking for a User Manual for a BJ7 that is in reasonably
> good shape at a reasonable price.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 14:39:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Detachable Mirror
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 15:17:36 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Owner's Manual
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 15:49:09 EST
Subject: Re: Detachable Mirror
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 15:59:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Removable rear view mirror
I will say that the window does not roll up all the way when installed on
the vent upright.
-----Original Message-----
From: nickz@attbi.com <nickz@attbi.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, April 03, 2003 11:13 AM
Subject: Removable rear view mirror
>A friend of mine told me that at a British car show he show a MGA with a
>removable rear view mirror. I have had my BJ8 for two years now and can
>make up my mind where to install a mirror ( I like the looks of the car
with
>out the mirror) has anybody heard of such a thing?
>
>Thanks
>Nick Zarkades
>BJ8
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 16:09:51 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 Owner's Manual
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 3:17 PM
Subject: BJ7 Owner's Manual
> Thanks to Steve Gerow for his help.
> In my search I found costs from $65.00 to $25.00.
> If any BJ7 owners have a manual can you answer this question.
> Was the Owner's Manual an insert to the 3000 manual or
> was it a manual all by itself.
>
> -
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics
> AHCUSA,ACHA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Morgantown, WV
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 13:13:24 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 Owner's Manual
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:17 PM
Subject: BJ7 Owner's Manual
> Thanks to Steve Gerow for his help.
> In my search I found costs from $65.00 to $25.00.
> If any BJ7 owners have a manual can you answer this question.
> Was the Owner's Manual an insert to the 3000 manual or
> was it a manual all by itself.
>
> -
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics
> AHCUSA,ACHA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Morgantown, WV
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 13:49:59 -0800
Subject: BJ7 Owner's Manual ... original or copy?
Cheers,
John
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 14:24:59 -0800
Subject: Re: BJ7 Owner's Manual ... original or copy?
The ISBN (International Standard Book Number) system was established in 1968
as a standard identification system for books and other monographic
publications. Today all book databases use the ISBN to track books, and
almost every item found in a bookstore has one.
So from this I would say that your copy is not original, but close
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: "HealeyList" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 1:49 PM
Subject: BJ7 Owner's Manual ... original or copy?
> While on the subject of the Driver's Handbook, is there a way of telling
> if it is an original or a reprint? I seriously doubt that the one that
> I have is original. It is much too new looking but when I look through
> it for reprint info there is nothing except for the ) THE BRITISH MOTOR
> CORPORATION LIMITED, 1963 Ah ha!! One of the last pages of the handbook
> does have an ISBN number ... I suppose those were not around in the
> early 60's ;)
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 16:28:53 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 User Manual
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 17:42:43 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 Owner's Manual ... original or copy?
The real on does not have that. Similarly, the real Workshop Manual has a
section in it that does not appear on the reprints
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Loftus" <loftusdesign@cox.net>
To: "HealeyList" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 4:49 PM
Subject: BJ7 Owner's Manual ... original or copy?
| While on the subject of the Driver's Handbook, is there a way of telling
| if it is an original or a reprint? I seriously doubt that the one that
| I have is original. It is much too new looking but when I look through
| it for reprint info there is nothing except for the ) THE BRITISH MOTOR
| CORPORATION LIMITED, 1963 Ah ha!! One of the last pages of the handbook
| does have an ISBN number ... I suppose those were not around in the
| early 60's ;)
|
| Cheers,
| John
|
|
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:27:10 -0600
Subject: Re: BJ7 Owner's Manual
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:36:42 -0600
Subject: test
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 16:15:20 -0800
Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; "Keith Pennell"
<pennell@whro.net>; "Neal Grotenhuis" <grotenhuis@attbi.com>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 4:02 PM
Subject: RE: 100-6 carb backfire
> Interesting. I have been using 10w40 in my SUs for years.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Hugh Wolfe
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 8:29 AM
> To: Keith Pennell; Neal Grotenhuis; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: 100-6 carb backfire
>
>
> And for sure DO NOT use a multi-weight oil. I did that years ago on an
old
> Volvo with SU's in Denver, and it doesn't work at all!
> Hugh
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:59:08 -0700
Subject: Carb Backfiring
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:41:21 -0600
Subject: TEXAS HEALEY ROUNDUP 2003 Nacogdoches, tx
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 18:47:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Removable rear view mirror
you can buy detachable rear view mirrors for your BJ8
from www.ahspares.co.uk or you can also see what it
looks like (and buy it) here:
www.holden.co.uk product code 090.124 . These mirrors
are pretty cool.
alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- nickz@attbi.com wrote:
> A friend of mine told me that at a British car show
> he show a MGA with a
> removable rear view mirror. I have had my BJ8 for
> two years now and can
> make up my mind where to install a mirror ( I like
> the looks of the car with
> out the mirror) has anybody heard of such a thing?
>
> Thanks
> Nick Zarkades
> BJ8
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 22:08:36 -0500
Subject: RE: Removable rear view mirror
Funny thing is I went into my local Harley shop and went up to the counter
and told the kid I needed to order 2 mirrors. The kid entering all my
information into the computer and asks me what year bike and I told him "59
Healey". The kid is looking real puzzled, and an old timer that works there
overhears us and just starts laughing and told the kid what a Healey was and
told me I wasn't the 1st to do this...
Mike B
59 BT7
--------------------------------------------
--- nickz@attbi.com wrote:
> A friend of mine told me that at a British car show
> he show a MGA with a
> removable rear view mirror. I have had my BJ8 for
> two years now and can
> make up my mind where to install a mirror ( I like
> the looks of the car with
> out the mirror) has anybody heard of such a thing?
>
> Thanks
> Nick Zarkades
> BJ8
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 19:14:28 -0800
Subject: Language Translator
I did this and it took me to another site: http://world.altavista.com/
Once there just follow the directions to view the Foreign language site in
English.
I'll even provide a few Foreign language (French) sites so you can try it
out:
http://mgcontact.free.fr/
http://spritemidget.free.fr/index.html
http://www.englishcars.net/
Hugh
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From "norman cay" <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 19:56:35 -0800
Subject: donuts. San Fran Bay Area only
<Invite your friends, pass it on to other clubs, let's make this a
phenomenon.
Krispy Kreme parking lot, Rengsdorf Exit off Highway 101, in Mountain View.
Anytime from about 8:00 am to about 10:00 am. ( Saturdays)>
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 23:36:35 EST
Subject: Re: BJ7 Owner's (Handbook) Manual ... original or copy?
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 20:38:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: Detachable Mirror
The nice thing about Cape's 100/4 detachable mirror is
it works with the side curtains in or out - you can
open and close the door without interference from the
mirror. It's quite nifty. I have it on my BN1 and
love it.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- michaelwilliams@attbi.com wrote:
> Nick,
>
> Cape has a version. Look at
> www.cape-international.com.
>
> --Michael
> '55 BN1 (with no birth certificate!)
>
> >> A friend of mine told me that at a British car
> show he show a MGA with a
> >> removable rear view mirror. I have had my BJ8 for
> two years now and can
> >> make up my mind where to install a mirror ( I
> like the looks of the car
> with
> >>out the mirror) has anybody heard of such a thing?
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 15:32:07 +1000
Subject: Gearbox Question
My question certainly drew quite a few answers. Many thanks to all who replied
as it helped me meet my deadline.
I have since checked the BN1 parts manual and the correct name for the parts
are the second speed synchronizer and first speed wheel.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Quinn, Patrick
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 10:14 AM
To: Healey (E-mail)
Subject: Gearbox Question
G'day
I am afraid that this is perhaps the silliest question that most will see today.
I am writing a small piece about gearbox reconditioning and want to refer to a
personal story of when I was rebuilding a BN1 gearbox many years ago and the
indent balls and springs leaped for their lives across the garage.
My memory tells me that the normally sane balls and springs live in a toothed
cylinder thingy which has another thingy around it and slides along it. The
second thingy is connected to the selector forks.
What I need to know is the correct names for the thingy where the indents and
balls live and the piece that slides along it.
Now all that's perfectly clear isn't it.
I'm at work way over here in the antipodes so don't have my manuals with me.
HELP
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
privileged information or confidential information or both. If you
are not the intended recipient please delete it and notify the sender.
**********************************************************************
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From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 21:59:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Language Translator
Terry Blubaugh
Hugh Wolfe wrote:
> I just found a very interesting tool while viewing a French MG site. It
> will literally translate the entire site from a Foreign language to English
> or visa-versa. Usually there is a way of viewing a page in English by
> clicking on a flag or some other icon.
>
> I did this and it took me to another site: http://world.altavista.com/
>
> Once there just follow the directions to view the Foreign language site in
> English.
>
> I'll even provide a few Foreign language (French) sites so you can try it
> out:
>
> http://mgcontact.free.fr/
>
> http://spritemidget.free.fr/index.html
>
> http://www.englishcars.net/
>
> Hugh
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 07:13:36 EST
Subject: Looking for Bill Emerson
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 08:15:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Language Translator
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: Language Translator
> Can we enjoy the site with something other than . . . . . . . French!
>
> Terry Blubaugh
>
> Hugh Wolfe wrote:
>
> > I just found a very interesting tool while viewing a French MG site. It
> > will literally translate the entire site from a Foreign language to
English
> > or visa-versa. Usually there is a way of viewing a page in English by
> > clicking on a flag or some other icon.
> >
> > I did this and it took me to another site: http://world.altavista.com/
> >
> > Once there just follow the directions to view the Foreign language site
in
> > English.
> >
> > I'll even provide a few Foreign language (French) sites so you can try
it
> > out:
> >
> > http://mgcontact.free.fr/
> >
> > http://spritemidget.free.fr/index.html
> >
> > http://www.englishcars.net/
> >
> > Hugh
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 10:56:37 EST
Subject: Need advise on Healey 3000
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 08:00:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Language Translator
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Blubaugh" <tblubaugh@earthlink.net>
To: "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe@hotmail.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: Language Translator
> Can we enjoy the site with something other than . . . . . . . French!
>
> Terry Blubaugh
>
> Hugh Wolfe wrote:
>
> > I just found a very interesting tool while viewing a French MG site. It
> > will literally translate the entire site from a Foreign language to
English
> > or visa-versa. Usually there is a way of viewing a page in English by
> > clicking on a flag or some other icon.
> >
> > I did this and it took me to another site: http://world.altavista.com/
> >
> > Once there just follow the directions to view the Foreign language site
in
> > English.
> >
> > I'll even provide a few Foreign language (French) sites so you can try
it
> > out:
> >
> > http://mgcontact.free.fr/
> >
> > http://spritemidget.free.fr/index.html
> >
> > http://www.englishcars.net/
> >
> > Hugh
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: HoYo
To: vintage-race-digest@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 10:02:40 -0600
Subject: valve cover for sale
Hi all,
i have a TR4? valve cover, no dents, slightrust(could use new
chrome),$15.(cost of sack of dogfood) plus shipping.
looking for a good home,before eBay,
also have misc. MGB,MGC,Morris Minor parts,948/1098,Midget,Fiat X/19,Ford
Van/Pick-Up,little Healey and other odds and ends(2bll. Buick 215
manifolds)....outta work 10 months...some stock must go B4 i lose
phone/internet. send requests. THANKS!!
HoYo
ps Simca parts anyone?????????
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: HoYo
To: vintage-race-digest@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 08:31:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
----- Original Message -----
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2003 7:56 AM
Subject: Need advise on Healey 3000
> Need advise..... I am thanking on how to precede on my Healey 3000. Two
> schools of thought, build the car first with all components in engine bay,
> suspension ect, prior to painting. Or, paint first and then install the
> components. On the video, Project Healey 3000, they painted first, then
> installed suspension, wiring harness, brakes, engine / trans ect. I am
> restoring this healey to concours gold standards. Any feedback on this
> subject would be a great help. Thanks to all... Lony
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: HoYo
To: vintage-race-digest@autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 11:34:39 EST
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
<< Need advise..... I am thanking on how to precede on my Healey 3000. Two
schools of thought, build the car first with all components in engine bay,
suspension ect, prior to painting. Or, paint first and then install the
components. On the video, Project Healey 3000, they painted first, then
installed suspension, wiring harness, brakes, engine / trans ect. I am
restoring this healey to concours gold standards. Any feedback on this
subject would be a great help. Thanks to all... Lony >>
If you want gold, you gotta paint the chassis before you install anything.
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From "Bob Yule" <autofarm at cyg.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 12:38:01 -0500
Subject: Need advise on Healey 3000
> Need advise..... I am thanking on how to precede on my Healey 3000. Two
> schools of thought, build the car first with all components in engine bay,
> suspension ect, prior to painting. Or, paint first and then install the
> components. On the video, Project Healey 3000, they painted first, then
> installed suspension, wiring harness, brakes, engine / trans ect. I am
> restoring this healey to concours gold standards. Any feedback on this
> subject would be a great help. Thanks to all... Lony
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From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 13:14:40 EST
Subject: Re: Detachable Mirror
Consider, every automobile in the US built since the '80s has one.
They are available, in varying widths, at every parts store and every
dealers' parts department.
In the rare case when the top is up, the mirror is slipped off.
Surely safety should trump originality. Bill Huck BN1, BT7
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 17:59:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 User Manual
***************************************************************************************************
Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 workshop manual CD-ROM: All models 1956 to 1968 -
2639 cc (161 cu in);
2912 cc (177.7 cu in); 100/6 MkI and II; 3000 Mk I, II and III; 2 and 2/4
seater...photos and
diagrams throughout.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2409354952&category=6762
***************************************************************************************************
Healey Sprite MG Midget Factory Parts Manual. This cd-rom contains the complete
British Leyland
factory mechanical parts manual AND body parts manual for the Austin-Healey
Sprite (Mark III and
IV) and MG Midget (Mark II and III), 1969, 320 pages. Exploded views on every
other page show each
part, down to the last bolt, nut, washer and spring, and are invaluable in
disassembly and
reassembly. Also includes name and part number of each part (with serial number
ranges where the
part was used in the case of modifications) and parts that may be substituted.
This is the factory
parts manual for these cars issued by British Leyland for these models.
Sections include:
Explanatory Part Number Index Engine - 1275cc (three models) and 1098cc
Ignition Equipment
Radiator and Fittings Fuel System Clutch and Controls Gearbox Propeller Shaft
Rear Axle and Rear
Suspension Steering Front Suspension Shock Absorbers Brake Controls Electrical
Equipment
Instruments Road Wheels Tools Body Details Special Tuning
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2409348260&category=6762
--- "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu> wrote: << I am looking for
a User Manual for a
BJ7 that is in reasonably good shape at a reasonable price. >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris at yahoo.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 18:24:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BJ7 User Manual
--- "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com> wrote: << Hi Tom; There are two
CD's on eBay at the
moment for workshop manuals - one for the 6 cyl Healey and one for the
Sprite/Midget. Here are
the descriptions & addresses; both end on April 6th. Good luck. --Scott >>
=====
J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 20:00:27 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 User Manual
In any event, does anyone know where one can purchase the CD? from the foto,
it appears to be a professionally produced item and does not look like there
is only one such Cd.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2003 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: BJ7 User Manual
| Sorry about that. I didn't check to see if these auctions were still
valid on eBay. Both now
| come up "Unknown Item". I don't know what happened to them but they were
listed starting March
| 30th.
| --Scott
|
| --- "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com> wrote: << Hi Tom; There are
two CD's on eBay at the
| moment for workshop manuals - one for the 6 cyl Healey and one for the
Sprite/Midget. Here are
| the descriptions & addresses; both end on April 6th. Good luck. --Scott
>>
|
|
| =====
| J. Scott Morris - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives
|
|
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 18:13:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Bill Lawrence
carlalony2@aol.com wrote:
> Need advise..... I am thanking on how to precede on my Healey 3000. Two
> schools of thought, build the car first with all components in engine bay,
> suspension ect, prior to painting. Or, paint first and then install the
> components. On the video, Project Healey 3000, they painted first, then
> installed suspension, wiring harness, brakes, engine / trans ect. I am
> restoring this healey to concours gold standards. Any feedback on this
> subject would be a great help. Thanks to all... Lony
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 19:48:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Lost Starting Nut
Ron:
I had that happen. Be sure to use a good lock tab washer, like new. When it
happened to me I found the nut on the left side of the car (while facing
the engine) nestled by the forward 'A' arm attachment.
John
'62 BT7
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:41:43 -0500
Subject: Boot floor panel Question
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 11:12:30 -0600
Subject: looking for gauge repair address
p.s. 8 inches of snow here last night,....really sucks!
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From "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyingb at surewest.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:09:49 -0800
Subject: Dixon, CA show, Pre-registration sets Class Trophies
Thanks
Jerry Costanzo
BN4
If questions call 916-791-8485
http://ubscc.org/
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 11:00:54 -0800
Subject: Re: looking for gauge repair address
Hugh
PS: I've got rain here in Oregon, more than enough, and there still calling
it a drought!
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: looking for gauge repair address
> Does anybody out there know of the address of the Smiths gauge repair
place in
> New Mexico. I need to get a new capillary tube attached to my temp/oil
> pressure gauge. I have no idea of how much this will cost or if I should
just
> buy a new gauge. I don't think that there is any reliable way to resolder
this
> capillary tube to the bulb myself with alcohol in it or whatever the
liquid
> substance is. Sounds like a good way to make a bomb though. Anyway, there
was
> a dialog over gauge repair a month or two back. I'm currently having a lot
of
> problems with my email account and can't seem to access my old emails.
Thanks
> in advance for the info.
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
>
> p.s. 8 inches of snow here last night,....really sucks!
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 14:52:25 EST
Subject: wire wheeels
mitch
1963 bj7
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 13:57:21 -0600
Subject: Hood Pad shown in Moss
The inside of my hood is a tiny bit rippled so it would benefit slightly in
the installation of the pad, but if it is not correct, I think I will leave
it off and live with the rough inner hood surface.
Any thoughts on this?
Brian
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From Healeyguy at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 15:25:29 EST
Subject: Re: Wanted 100-SIX / 3000 Air Cleaners
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 13:45:10 -0700
Subject: Re: looking for gauge repair address
(505) 266-6661 Attn: Margaret Lucas
Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque
PS: May hit 70 today.
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> Does anybody out there know of the address of the Smiths gauge repair place in
> New Mexico. I need to get a new capillary tube attached to my temp/oil
> pressure gauge. I have no idea of how much this will cost or if I should just
> buy a new gauge. I don't think that there is any reliable way to resolder
>this
> capillary tube to the bulb myself with alcohol in it or whatever the liquid
> substance is. Sounds like a good way to make a bomb though. Anyway, there was
> a dialog over gauge repair a month or two back. I'm currently having a lot of
> problems with my email account and can't seem to access my old emails. Thanks
> in advance for the info.
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
>
> p.s. 8 inches of snow here last night,....really sucks!
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 14:23:12 -0700
Subject: Re: looking for gauge repair address
dicksonr@uwm.edu wrote:
> Does anybody out there know of the address of the Smiths gauge repair place
>in
> New Mexico.
> Randy Dickson
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 16:58:09 EST
Subject: Old wire wheels, BJ8 engine, etc.
Am getting to the final stages of moving and have the following items which I
want to dispose of, one way or another:
(1) BJ8 engine (block, head, valve cover, crankshaft, rods, pistons, valves,
flywheel -
does NOT have camshaft, rocker arm assembly, manifolds, or carbs).
This might
not be available for a little while, because I need to pull the cam,
and MAY have
to move before I do so. I have NO knowledge of engine condition -
bought it on a
whim, for spare parts.
(2) Set of four 60-spoke wires (painted over chrome) which WILL require
rebuilding
(ALL have broken spokes, MAY have rims out-of-true, etc.)
(3) Three 48 spoke, painted (NOT chromed), same condition.
I have NO idea of current value - this stuff was all acquired 25+ years ago.
It may be the wheels have NO value. So far as trading is concerned, I would
have some interest in three HS6 or HD6 carbs; and/or a GOOD condition rear
end center-section assembly (less ring and pinion - I have a brand new 4.1
gearset I want to mount).
I live in Marin County, north of San Francisco. Am moving to Colusa (45 min.
NW of Sacramento)
Any interested parties may contact me off-list.
Dick Hosmer
HBT7L18556
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 14:18:20 -0800
Subject: Re: looking for gauge repair address
Mo-Ma Instrument Repair. 505-766-6661
email = MOMANM@aol.com
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2003 9:12 AM
Subject: looking for gauge repair address
> Does anybody out there know of the address of the Smiths gauge repair
place in
> New Mexico. I need to get a new capillary tube attached to my temp/oil
> pressure gauge. I have no idea of how much this will cost or if I should
just
> buy a new gauge. I don't think that there is any reliable way to resolder
this
> capillary tube to the bulb myself with alcohol in it or whatever the
liquid
> substance is. Sounds like a good way to make a bomb though. Anyway, there
was
> a dialog over gauge repair a month or two back. I'm currently having a lot
of
> problems with my email account and can't seem to access my old emails.
Thanks
> in advance for the info.
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI.
> 63 BJ-7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: <carlalony2@aol.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 16:41:23 -0600
Subject: Old wire wheels, Dunlop tires
I have a set of old 48 spoke 15" wire wheels that came with my car, they
have Dunlop Gold Seal Bias plies 6.00 X 15 mounted on them. I painted the
wheels when I first got the car, the wheels and tires look good an very
correct on an early healey.
However, splines are bad on the wheels and spokes loose, tires are old and
have fine cracks if you look close, but they still have pretty good color.
The tires have been off the car for two years and still have good pressure.
I guess what I am saying is that they might be OK if you want the car to
look correct for display, but I wouldn't drive a long ways on them.
Contact me off list if interested, no reasonable offer refused.
I am in Lincoln, Nebraska.
thanks,
Greg Lemon
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 20:12:16 -0500
Subject: Hood Pad shown in Moss
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From RCT2BNC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 20:56:02 EST
Subject: Re: Hood Pad shown in Moss
Ben Cohen
Tucson AZ
BJ8, BN7, AN5 x 2, Mini Cooper and Lotus 7
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from a rear shock absorber? A pickel fork doesn't
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 18:58:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: rear shock link removal
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://tax.yahoo.com
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From John Kuzman <jjkbj7 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 19:13:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Carpet Adhesive Recommendations
John - BJ7
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 22:42:40 EST
Subject: Re: Hood Pad shown in Moss
* * * * * * * * * *
"Shipping charges will apply if out side of the continental United States"
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 20:59:37 -0700
Subject: Re: rear shock link removal
I don't know just what you have tried so far. When I removed the links
on my shocks with a pickle fork it was easy.
The shock needs to be removed from the car & the arm very firmly clamped
in a sturdy vise with the eye close to the vise. Wedge in the fork &
smack the end of the stud with a big lead hammer. Alternately, heat the
shock arm eye & then do the same. I guess that you could also use a two
arm gear puller to push the stud out of the eye.
Sorry that you are having problems, sometimes things just don't go well,
Dave Russell
joe mulqueen wrote:
> Hello,
> Is there a method to removing the rubber isolated link
> from a rear shock absorber? A pickel fork doesn't
> seem to work.
> Thanks for any ideas,
> Joe Mulqueen
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 23:23:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: re. Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 12:38:01 -0500
From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm@cyg.net>
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Lony, having done several Healeys, and always
painted frame and bulkheads, inside of panels, then
assembled drive train, wiring, panels etc.
Then return car to paint shop for final paint,
followed by chrome, trim, interior etc.and always been
dissapointed at the amount of overspray, dust
and dirt on the already installed components, I
decided this time to try the other approach. We
fitted all the panels, to the car in finished bare
metal. Then dissmantled, took everything to the paint
shop, then assembled the already painted car. Much
prefer this method. The big headache is
keeping the painted panels safe, until needed.
Fortunatly I was able to leave them in the trailer.
You can check our progress on our web site
www.autofarm.net
Cheers......Bob @ Autofarm
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://tax.yahoo.com
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 23:57:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Healey Insurance
If you have daily drivers they don't much care how many miles you drive on your
collector cars.
We even got them to count our 89 Speedster as a collector car because it has
6800
miles on it.
Ron R
1965 BJ8
1967 E fhc
1989 Speedster
drivers......
Win wrote:
> What does everyone do about insurance for your cars? Do you have a normal
> policy? I have heard that there are policies for antique cars that only get
> driven a certain number of miles. Anyone know anything about this?
>
> Win Graham
> '63 BJ7
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 07:58:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Joe, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but better you hear it now than
after the car is "finished" and it doesn't meet your expectations. If you
want a gold-level car, you've got to do it fundamentally the way the factory
did it. Accessories that were painted prior to assembly must be painted
prior to assembly, and any parts -- typically body parts -- that were painted
assembled must be painted assembled.
> The challenge I see using the second approach is how
> to install the engine compartment goodies after body
> paint. The fenders and front shroud have to come back
> off, right? Or are parts simply painted hanging in
> the air and installed later after component
> installation?
I don't have particulars for the Healey, but typically, before installation,
some parts are spray painted, and others are dipped in paint. You can't have
a 100-point car if you spray things that are supposed to be dipped, and
vice-versa. And any evidence of masking that isn't on the original will
cause points to be deducted.
Keep us posted!
--
John Miller
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 09:49:45 -0400
Subject: RE: rear shock link removal
To release the taper of the shock link shaft from the shock arm first
remove the nut completely and make sure that it turns fairly freely on
the thread.
Refit the nut so that it is a couple of turns from fully tight (to
protect the thread)
Position a club hammer or other heavy steel weight on one side of the
arm at the hole then hit the other side of the arm sharply with a
hammer.
The idea is to momentarily distort the shape of the tapered hole to make
the shaft pop out.
Important factors are a heavy weight and one sharp whack. This works
well on tie rod ends, and ball joints when you don't have the correct
separator.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of joe mulqueen
Sent: 5-Apr-03 9:58 PM
To: healey list
Subject: rear shock link removal
Hello,
Is there a method to removing the rubber isolated link
from a rear shock absorber? A pickel fork doesn't
seem to work.
Thanks for any ideas,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Redondo Beach, CA
__________________________________________________
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 09:50:49 -0400
Subject: BJ8 windshield post
A friend who is restoring a BJ8 asks about the original finish on the
windshield pillar [part number 17H2816 (RH) and 17H2817 (LH)], packing piece
[part number AHB9659], and round headed rivets that are adjacent to the door
hinges. Since my door jambs and the pillar were painted yellow along with the
rest of the car, I can't provide that information. The chrome-plated upper
windshield pillar is riveted to a lower piece inside the door jamb with the
round-headed rivets. I would assume the lower pillar piece (the part that is
bolted to the body) is also chrome plated, but is that correct? The
round-headed rivets holding the two pieces together are apparently not chrome
plated. What kind of finish is supposed to be on them?
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 09:59:33 -0400
Subject: RE: re. Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
In the days when we used to think we could make a living out of
restoring Healeys we used to paint everything then assemble.
If you are very careful and have had the car painted using paint which
allows touch ups that is the way to go.
The only area that consistently gave us difficulty was installing the
heater and fresh air ducts (Kopex) and the heater blower.
You also have to be particularly carefully tightening up the Acme screws
that hold the fenders on after the beadings are installed. It is very
easy to crack the paint by over rotating a wrench.
We always painted the final coat with the doors on, hood and boot lids
in place and fenders loosely fitted. This is particularly important with
metallic paints. With Healey blue we even used to position the front
splash pan at the front of the car to ensure consistent paint texture.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of joe mulqueen
Sent: 6-Apr-03 3:24 AM
To: healey list
Subject: re. Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Does anyone have a "good results" story using the
first approach? Any secret masking tips?
The challenge I see using the second approach is how
to install the engine compartment goodies after body
paint. The fenders and front shroud have to come back
off, right? Or are parts simply painted hanging in
the air and installed later after component
installation? I can pay for a quality paint job but
that's about it. I'll be doing all the component
installation at home meaning transporting panels or
chip damaging during temporary panel install and
removal. Is there a way through this??
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
(Chassis painted but looking for body painter)
Redondo Beach, CA 90277
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 12:38:01 -0500
From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm@cyg.net>
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Lony, having done several Healeys, and always
painted frame and bulkheads, inside of panels, then
assembled drive train, wiring, panels etc.
Then return car to paint shop for final paint,
followed by chrome, trim, interior etc.and always been
dissapointed at the amount of overspray, dust
and dirt on the already installed components, I
decided this time to try the other approach. We
fitted all the panels, to the car in finished bare
metal. Then dissmantled, took everything to the paint
shop, then assembled the already painted car. Much
prefer this method. The big headache is
keeping the painted panels safe, until needed.
Fortunatly I was able to leave them in the trailer.
You can check our progress on our web site
www.autofarm.net
Cheers......Bob @ Autofarm
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://tax.yahoo.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 09:38:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Need Advice On Healey 3000
I first painted my bare chassis, and then installed everything so that the car
would be fully functional. i.e. it could actually be driven down the road.
Suspension, engine, hydraulics, brakes, engine, drivetrain, wiring, dash, fuel
system, etc....(not in that order). I made sure all of the body panels fit
perfectly(?), then I performed all of the body panel paint work while off of
the car. Next I will continue by attaching the finished exterior body parts,
trim, carpet, chrome, etc....
Some people choose to paint the body panels while attached to the car, but I
chose not to because I was worried about overspray. As careful as I have been
while painting in my garage, I've found Colorado Red overspray in some of the
least obvious places. Fortunately before my wife spotted it, I was able to get
it cleaned off of the white tile floor in the spare bathroom!! Somehow it
found its way into the fresh air ductwork.
Good luck!
Scott Helms
carlalony2@aol.com wrote:
> Need advise..... I am thanking on how to precede on my Healey 3000. Two
> schools of thought, build the car first with all components in engine bay,
> suspension ect, prior to painting. Or, paint first and then install the
> components. On the video, Project Healey 3000, they painted first, then
> installed suspension, wiring harness, brakes, engine / trans ect. I am
> restoring this healey to concours gold standards. Any feedback on this
> subject would be a great help. Thanks to all... Lony
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From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 12:57:21 -0500
Subject: RE: Need advise on Healey 3000
I don't have particulars for the Healey, but typically, before installation,
some parts are spray painted, and others are dipped in paint. You can't have
a 100-point car if you spray things that are supposed to be dipped, and
vice-versa.
John Miller
John, this is interesting-to my knowledge nothing on a Healey is
dipped, Porsche and Volkswagen, yes, but I could be wrong here. I
had original suspension arms still wrapped in BMC tape and they were
sprayed chassis black. It would be interesting to get other
knowlegeable guys in on this subject. I agree with the gist of your
comment otherwise , for a concours car.
Alain Giguere
BN7 bits
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From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 13:14:34 -0400
Subject: RE: Carpet Adhesive Recommendations
HTH,
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of John Kuzman
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2003 10:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Carpet Adhesive Recommendations
I am about to begin installing my Heritage Carpet Set and I need some advice
on the best choice for the adhesive. I have thought about regular contact
cement or a 3M spray adhesive. I have also looked at outdoor carpet
adhesive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
John - BJ7
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From Steven Tjepkema <stjepkem at optonline.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 13:12:14 -0400
Subject: re;wire wheels
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 12:28:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
Hi, Alain --
No, let me be real clear -- I have no knowledge of anything being dipped on a
Healey, either, just making the point that if there was anything dipped
originally, that's how it needs to be re-done.
Best,
--
John Miller
Let us not look back in anger or forward in fear, but around us in awareness.
--James Thurber
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:42:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Carpet Adhesive Recommendations
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Kuzman" <jjkbj7@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2003 8:13 PM
Subject: Carpet Adhesive Recommendations
> I am about to begin installing my Heritage Carpet Set and I need some
advice on the best choice for the adhesive. I have thought about regular
contact cement or a 3M spray adhesive. I have also looked at outdoor carpet
adhesive. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> John - BJ7
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 16:37:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000 - masking
http://www.theautoist.com/body_repairs.htm
Cheers,
John
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From "Heard" <heard at datatrontech.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 20:36:44 -0400
Subject: Differential dilemma
Anyway, while waiting to paint my chassis, I thought I would tackle the
differential. As far as I know, it was working fine when the PO
disassembled the car at 91,000 miles. Should I break it down? Or just
blast it and paint it? I would much rather break it down now if there is
anything I should check or replace. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Heard Saxon
Enterprise, FL
60 BT7
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 20:21:15 EDT
Subject: RESTORATION PROCEDURES
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 21:34:38 -0400
Subject: Strange Happenings
I pulled the rear wheels (drum brakes) and started to bleed the brakes. With
the bleed screw open 1 /2 turn, I discovered that no fluid was moving thru
either rear wheel cylinder (very hard pedal, normal pedal). I tried again
with the bleed screw open 1 full turn, still no fluid. I unscrewed the bleed
screw, checked that it was clear and reinstalled it. I pulled the cylinders.
The pistons were a bit sticky but freed up easily with some brake fluid. With
the pistons very free, they were reinstalled and I tried to bleed the brakes
again. Still no fluid movement.
I removed the front wheels and they both (disc brakes) bled properly. I
checked the rear wheels again, still no fluid movement.
I loosened the rear brake line fitting at the front proportioning block, my
wife stepped on the pedal and fluid moved out of the fitting. I checked the
rear brakes again and still no fluid movement. I examined the brake line to
the rear and no dents or dings. I loosened the flex hose fitting at the rear
brake block, tried the pedal again and still no fluid. It narrows down to a
line problem?
Could the brake line be clogged with "matter". If so, how to clear it?
Replace it?
Anyone have any ideas?
With the brakes a problem, I check the shocks and discovered they are low on
fluid. It has been years since I topped off the shocks and I cannot remember
what type of fluid. I have checked all of my manuals and nothing tells me
what type of fluid to use..
Anyone with some good advice on this problem?
Thanks,
Fred
"63 BJ7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 19:57:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Differential dilemma
Bill Lawrence
Heard wrote:
> Hello Healeyites,
> Or is that Healeyfiles???
>
> Anyway, while waiting to paint my chassis, I thought I would tackle the
> differential. As far as I know, it was working fine when the PO
> disassembled the car at 91,000 miles. Should I break it down? Or just
> blast it and paint it? I would much rather break it down now if there is
> anything I should check or replace. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Heard Saxon
> Enterprise, FL
> 60 BT7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 20:04:48 -0600
Subject: Re: Strange Happenings
Bill Lawrence
Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I decided to check a few things, for routine maintenance, on my BJ7 today.
>
> I pulled the rear wheels (drum brakes) and started to bleed the brakes. With
> the bleed screw open 1 /2 turn, I discovered that no fluid was moving thru
> either rear wheel cylinder (very hard pedal, normal pedal). I tried again
> with the bleed screw open 1 full turn, still no fluid. I unscrewed the bleed
> screw, checked that it was clear and reinstalled it. I pulled the cylinders.
> The pistons were a bit sticky but freed up easily with some brake fluid. With
> the pistons very free, they were reinstalled and I tried to bleed the brakes
> again. Still no fluid movement.
>
> I removed the front wheels and they both (disc brakes) bled properly. I
> checked the rear wheels again, still no fluid movement.
>
> I loosened the rear brake line fitting at the front proportioning block, my
> wife stepped on the pedal and fluid moved out of the fitting. I checked the
> rear brakes again and still no fluid movement. I examined the brake line to
> the rear and no dents or dings. I loosened the flex hose fitting at the rear
> brake block, tried the pedal again and still no fluid. It narrows down to a
> line problem?
>
> Could the brake line be clogged with "matter". If so, how to clear it?
> Replace it?
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> With the brakes a problem, I check the shocks and discovered they are low on
> fluid. It has been years since I topped off the shocks and I cannot remember
> what type of fluid. I have checked all of my manuals and nothing tells me
> what type of fluid to use..
>
> Anyone with some good advice on this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> "63 BJ7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 19:12:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Differential dilemma
As long as there's been regular changes of hypoid oil
in the rear end, there is no reason to break the
differential unit down. They are very reliable and
typically only break when you start tinkering with it
or the oil runs out. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Wait till it breaks later to fix it... they are very
easy to remove at any time....
The only thing that really should be checked is to
make sure the axle hub seals are good, replace the
axle hub o rings, and make sure you put new paper
gaskets between the axle flange and the axle hubs.
Make sure you get pre-cut paper gaskets as I think
these are made with a very specific thickness. You
definitely want to do everything possible to prevent
oil leakage into your brake drums.
hope that helps...
Good Luck
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Heard <heard@datatrontech.net> wrote:
> Hello Healeyites,
> Or is that Healeyfiles???
>
> Anyway, while waiting to paint my chassis, I thought
> I would tackle the
> differential. As far as I know, it was working fine
> when the PO
> disassembled the car at 91,000 miles. Should I
> break it down? Or just
> blast it and paint it? I would much rather break it
> down now if there is
> anything I should check or replace. Any advice is
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Cheers,
> Heard Saxon
> Enterprise, FL
> 60 BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 19:18:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Strange Happenings
It sounds like to me that your rear flex brake line
has an occlusion in it. The old flex lines are
notorious for having the lining come lose and blocking
the flow in one direction like a check valve. This
may have happened with your rear flex line.
To fix this problem, I'd replace the rear flex line
and then run compressed air though the rear brake
pipes with the bleed valves completely removed. Be
careful this may throw brake fluid all over your
car... keep the bleed holes covered with a towel.
Once all done and replaced, you should completely
bleed the system and run new fluid through out.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I decided to check a few things, for routine
> maintenance, on my BJ7 today.
>
> I pulled the rear wheels (drum brakes) and started
> to bleed the brakes. With
> the bleed screw open 1 /2 turn, I discovered that no
> fluid was moving thru
> either rear wheel cylinder (very hard pedal, normal
> pedal). I tried again
> with the bleed screw open 1 full turn, still no
> fluid. I unscrewed the bleed
> screw, checked that it was clear and reinstalled it.
> I pulled the cylinders.
> The pistons were a bit sticky but freed up easily
> with some brake fluid. With
> the pistons very free, they were reinstalled and I
> tried to bleed the brakes
> again. Still no fluid movement.
>
> I removed the front wheels and they both (disc
> brakes) bled properly. I
> checked the rear wheels again, still no fluid
> movement.
>
> I loosened the rear brake line fitting at the front
> proportioning block, my
> wife stepped on the pedal and fluid moved out of the
> fitting. I checked the
> rear brakes again and still no fluid movement. I
> examined the brake line to
> the rear and no dents or dings. I loosened the flex
> hose fitting at the rear
> brake block, tried the pedal again and still no
> fluid. It narrows down to a
> line problem?
>
> Could the brake line be clogged with "matter". If
> so, how to clear it?
> Replace it?
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> With the brakes a problem, I check the shocks and
> discovered they are low on
> fluid. It has been years since I topped off the
> shocks and I cannot remember
> what type of fluid. I have checked all of my
> manuals and nothing tells me
> what type of fluid to use..
>
> Anyone with some good advice on this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> "63 BJ7
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From EJBJR935 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 22:26:29 EDT
Subject: BJ8 push button door handles
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From MeditionM at netscape.net
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:40:41 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 windshield post
"BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
>Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
>A friend who is restoring a BJ8 asks about the original finish on the
>windshield pillar [part number 17H2816 (RH) and 17H2817 (LH)], packing piece
>[part number AHB9659], and round headed rivets that are adjacent to the door
>hinges. Since my door jambs and the pillar were painted yellow along with the
>rest of the car, I can't provide that information. The chrome-plated upper
>windshield pillar is riveted to a lower piece inside the door jamb with the
>round-headed rivets. I would assume the lower pillar piece (the part that is
>bolted to the body) is also chrome plated, but is that correct? The
>round-headed rivets holding the two pieces together are apparently not chrome
>plated. What kind of finish is supposed to be on them?
>
>
>Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
__________________________________________________________________
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:00:55 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 push button door handles
I have a pile of BJ8 door handles with the same problem.
The retailer cup is available from MM and other suppliers (including us)
but they are expensive. (031-776) $85.85 ea.
By the time you have had the handle replated and then replace this cup
you may as well buy a new handle.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of EJBJR935@aol.com
Sent: 6-Apr-03 10:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 push button door handles
Hello to the list: I disassembled my BJ8 door handles to have them
rechromed.
The retaining cups that hold the spring, tumbler, etc. together are
broken
on both handles. The three ears that have the screw holes are
fractrured. If
anyone has any spare push button handle parts that they will part with
for a
fair price, please contact me at EJBJR935@aol.com. Thank you. Ed
Brennan
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:13:27 EDT
Subject: Chaleston SC Help?
Thanks,
Rick Neville
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 09:26:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Detachable Mirror
<< Having driven a BJ8 for 35 years, mostly with the top down, and always
disheartened by having a view to the rear from only the top half inch of the
mirror, >>
I make a miror riser that fits under the stock miror. You can see it at <A
HREF="www.dunritetool.com">dunritetool.com</A> under Austin Healey Products.
Just returned from a great Texas Healey Round Up!!!
Don
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 09:43:12 EDT
Subject: unknown parts
Price
60BT7
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 10:10:00 EDT
Subject: unknown parts website
Price
60BT7
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 10:35:46 EDT
Subject: Unknown parts website third try
photos.yahoo.com/pbtsr2
Price
60BT7
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 10:51:55 EDT
Subject: unknown parts on hold
sorry
Price
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 11:25:57 EDT
Subject: unknown parts should work now
Price
60BT7
P.S. I won't try this again. What a waste of a morning.
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 09:29:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Boot floor panel Question
I don't think there is suppose to be plywood on the boot floor. It's a
metal floor and the fuel tank bottom is exposed in the opening.
John, BN4
>Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:41:43 -0500
>From: Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig@sympatico.ca>
>Subject: Boot floor panel Question
>
>Anyone know how thick the boot floor plywood panels should be on an
>early 3000's? 3 ply (1/8") plywood is what I am guessing... Was it
>marine grade plywood any idea of proper replacement sources?
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Alain Giguhre
>BN7 bits"
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 11:32:01 -0500
Subject: 100-4 Boot Lid
Mark
(615) 889-4756
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 12:42:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Boot floor panel Question
<< >Anyone know how thick the boot floor plywood panels should be on an
>early 3000's? 3 ply (1/8") plywood is what I am guessing... Was it
>marine grade plywood any idea of proper replacement sources?
>Thanks for your help. >>
I got some nice birch ply at Home Depot that works real well. They've got a
few various thicknesses and qualities available.
Rick
San Diego.
(This is the wood that sits on top of the tank)
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 14:00:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Boot floor panel Question
hmmm...
Rick
San Diego
BN6
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 14:03:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Boot floor panel Question
Alain: My BN6 and BN 7 have 1/4 inch plywood. I believe the repro trunk
kits come with the wood and the armacord.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Turney, John" <John.Turney@shawgrp.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: Boot floor panel Question
> Alain,
>
> I don't think there is suppose to be plywood on the boot floor. It's a
> metal floor and the fuel tank bottom is exposed in the opening.
>
> John, BN4
>
> >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:41:43 -0500
> >From: Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig@sympatico.ca>
> >Subject: Boot floor panel Question
> >
> >Anyone know how thick the boot floor plywood panels should be on an
> >early 3000's? 3 ply (1/8") plywood is what I am guessing... Was it
> >marine grade plywood any idea of proper replacement sources?
> >Thanks for your help.
> >
> >Alain Giguhre
> >BN7 bits"
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 14:43:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Boot floor panel Question
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 18:04:17 EDT
Subject: Conclave 2003 Long-Distance Driver's Award
For a list of Sponsors to date and full information on Conclave 2003 go to: <A
HREF="www.capitalhealey.org">
www.capitalhealey.org</A>
BTW, I'm still planning on serving Eskimo Pi's (remember that one?) at the
Popular Car Show on Friday--June 27th. No forms to fill out or questions to
answer....
Best--Michael Oritt
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 18:05:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Strange Happenings
I'm having a very similar problem with my 100-6, but just the opposite of
yours. About six months or so ago, I assembled my entire brake system. I had
Apple Hydraulics bore and sleeve the master cylinders, and then I rebuilt
them using a Lucas rebuild kit. They (the master cylinders) seem to be
working just fine. I installed brand new SS lines from Classic Tube,
installed brand new rear wheel cylinders, rebuilt and installed the front
wheel cylinders, and then completed the assembly of the entire hydraulic
system with fresh parts. About a month or so ago I attempted to bleed the
system using the Mighty Vac system, and the rear brakes did just fine.
Although, I could not get any fluid out of the front drum brakes....either
side. Since I couldn't figure it out at the time, I decided to move on to
other things and deal with it later.
Now is later, and this past weekend I removed the left front drum to get a
better look at what is going on. I am getting a free flow of fluid
(silicone - and shouldn't matter) where the SS line connects to the flex
line when disconnected. When the SS line is disconnected from the brand new
flex line, fluid rushes out freely when the brake pedal is pressed. Could it
possibly be the brand new flex line?? When I open the bleed screw (SS line
reconnected) I am getting a very slow dribble. When the bleed screw is open
and I step on the brake pedal, the dribble does not increase, and the pedal
does not go to the floor as you would expect. So there must be a restriction
somewhere between the flex line and the bleed screw. I haven't investigated
the right front brakes yet, but I'm assuming it is the same. Since I rebuilt
these wheel cylinders myself, I'm wondering if maybe I did something out of
the ordinary to cause this problem. My first thought was that maybe I
connected my hard lines to the wrong holes, but I don't believe they could
be assembled any other way since the pre-bent short line that connects the
two cylinders wouldn't fit any other way.
When I compress each of the pistons I can hear fluid passing back and forth
between the two, and when compressing the piston nearest the bleed screw,
fluid comes out with no noticable air. I believe there is very little air
between the master cylinder and the flex line, but there may be a very small
amount of air between the flex line and the bleed screw.
Sorry for the length....if anyone has the correct answer to this puzzle, the
next round is on me....
P.S. Dave, I'll try opening them up and looking for the steel balls.
Thanks,
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2003 8:34 PM
Subject: Strange Happenings
> I decided to check a few things, for routine maintenance, on my BJ7 today.
>
> I pulled the rear wheels (drum brakes) and started to bleed the brakes.
With
> the bleed screw open 1 /2 turn, I discovered that no fluid was moving thru
> either rear wheel cylinder (very hard pedal, normal pedal). I tried
again
> with the bleed screw open 1 full turn, still no fluid. I unscrewed the
bleed
> screw, checked that it was clear and reinstalled it. I pulled the
cylinders.
> The pistons were a bit sticky but freed up easily with some brake fluid.
With
> the pistons very free, they were reinstalled and I tried to bleed the
brakes
> again. Still no fluid movement.
>
> I removed the front wheels and they both (disc brakes) bled properly. I
> checked the rear wheels again, still no fluid movement.
>
> I loosened the rear brake line fitting at the front proportioning block,
my
> wife stepped on the pedal and fluid moved out of the fitting. I checked
the
> rear brakes again and still no fluid movement. I examined the brake line
to
> the rear and no dents or dings. I loosened the flex hose fitting at the
rear
> brake block, tried the pedal again and still no fluid. It narrows down to
a
> line problem?
>
> Could the brake line be clogged with "matter". If so, how to clear it?
> Replace it?
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> With the brakes a problem, I check the shocks and discovered they are low
on
> fluid. It has been years since I topped off the shocks and I cannot
remember
> what type of fluid. I have checked all of my manuals and nothing tells me
> what type of fluid to use..
>
> Anyone with some good advice on this problem?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> "63 BJ7
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:44:07 -0600
Subject: RE: Carpet Adhesive Recommendations
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8 - Wating to install my heritage interior..
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From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:43:55 -0600
Subject: Subject: Re: Need advise on Healey 3000
I am at the stage in my restoration where my BJ8 is in for final paint. I
did the chassis first (colorado red), installed basically all components
except motor and trans, then masked very thoroughly ALL areas... that is ALL
the inner fender wells, around the frame where paint could get, suspension,
rear, springs, ... What I did was take distinct areas at a time, cut 4 mil
plastic and wrap around what I was masking until the 2 sides of the plastic
met.. I then stapled them together, folded it over at the seam, stapled,
ran duct tape along the seam, then stapled again. After many areas were
independently done, I could seam them together. I did not apply any tape to
the car itself, just to the other plastic..... In certain areas where I
needed to fasten to the chassis, I applied duct tape to an edge of the
plastic (doubled over), then punched a hole through the duct tape/plastic
area and used a wire tie to fasten the plastic to the car... All-in-all I
spent the better part of a day masking..... however, I went to see progress
on my car today and all is holding up perfectly and there is virtually no
dust inside the masked areas.... One lister commented that the heater core
area and heater ducts were a problem area,, I agree. I used this method
and was able to completely surround everything very well... soooo,
although this sounds very 'retentive' of me, I spent a lot of time making
the chassis wonderful looking, with powder coated black metal parts,
re-zinced nuts and bolts etc... and did not want it screwed up./.. I am
also going into the body shop to mask the entire bottom of the car and the
entire seating area once they are ready for the final paint...
Cheers.
jim Sailer
66 BJ8 coming along
03 Cooper S -- Way FUN!
93 Land Rover D110 - Die Hard ski transportation
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 18:54:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100-4 Boot Lid
I don't know much about Moss panels, but Kilmartin
Panels are first class.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mark@nashvilletn.org> wrote:
> Due to an unfortunate accident this weekend I am
> going to need a new
> aluminum boot lid for my Healey BN1. I have talked
> to Moss and they have an
> aluminum replacement made in the UK (??). I also am
> aware of Kilmartin that
> may or may not have one for the Healey 100. Does
> anybody know How Moss body
> parts may compare to the Kilmartin panels?
>
> Mark
> (615) 889-4756
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 22:26:50 -0400
Subject: BN-1 air cleaner elements
Thanks in advance,
CB
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 03:29:47 EDT
Subject: Another tricarb is running (longish)
The roar of HBT7L18556 was heard today for the first time in over 13 years.
Took a little coaxing with ether spritzes, after carefully oiling/turning it
on the starter without plugs, and a couple of light whacks on the pump, but,
after a bit of coughing and spitting, it is running fine. No fuel leaks,
decent oil pressure, etc.
Only fly in the ointment (so far) is that I cannot select any gear in the
transmission. The clutch pedal feels fine, very solid, full stroke, not
mushy, but is apparently not disengaging the clutch from the flywheel. I was
by myself and could not look under the car, which is (solidly) on stands
awaiting new tires (I went with Michelin ZX 175R15 from Coker) - I'll have
some help on Wednesday. I wonder if it is the same internal hose swelling
problem as the recent thread on brakes?? Any other ideas?
Yes, the reservoir was/is full.
So far as the long term "storage" is concerned, the gas tank was over half
full, and I was sorry I drained it, as it was perfectly sweet and there was
NO varnish on the drain plug. I wonder if it is those tanks which are stored
empty that have problems?? The coolant was at least 75% antifreeze (why, I
do not remember!) and now shows virtually zero rust after being run. Temp
did not go above 190 in twenty minutes of idling. Changed the oil (talk about
BLACK) while it was hot.
I'm getting excited!!!!!!!!!
Dick Hosmer
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 07:13:49 -0400
Subject: RE: Another tricarb is running (longish)
Great to have another on the way..
The clutch problem is almost certainly due to the disc being stuck to
the flywheel.
I would recommend getting the car warmed up then get it running along
the road in 2nd gear (preferably somewhere with no traffic and no stop
signs).
Hold the clutch down and blip on the throttle a few times. It will
probably come loose.
Good luck.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of RAHosmer@aol.com
Sent: 8-Apr-03 3:30 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Another tricarb is running (longish)
List,
The roar of HBT7L18556 was heard today for the first time in over 13
years.
Took a little coaxing with ether spritzes, after carefully
oiling/turning it
on the starter without plugs, and a couple of light whacks on the pump,
but,
after a bit of coughing and spitting, it is running fine. No fuel leaks,
decent oil pressure, etc.
Only fly in the ointment (so far) is that I cannot select any gear in
the
transmission. The clutch pedal feels fine, very solid, full stroke, not
mushy, but is apparently not disengaging the clutch from the flywheel. I
was
by myself and could not look under the car, which is (solidly) on stands
awaiting new tires (I went with Michelin ZX 175R15 from Coker) - I'll
have
some help on Wednesday. I wonder if it is the same internal hose
swelling
problem as the recent thread on brakes?? Any other ideas?
Yes, the reservoir was/is full.
So far as the long term "storage" is concerned, the gas tank was over
half
full, and I was sorry I drained it, as it was perfectly sweet and there
was
NO varnish on the drain plug. I wonder if it is those tanks which are
stored
empty that have problems?? The coolant was at least 75% antifreeze
(why, I
do not remember!) and now shows virtually zero rust after being run.
Temp
did not go above 190 in twenty minutes of idling. Changed the oil (talk
about
BLACK) while it was hot.
I'm getting excited!!!!!!!!!
Dick Hosmer
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 12:02:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Another tricarb is running (longish)
<< Only fly in the ointment (so far) is that I cannot select any gear in the
transmission. The clutch pedal feels fine, very solid, full stroke, not
mushy, but is apparently not disengaging the clutch from the flywheel. >>
With no wheels on the car, the clutch will spin the transmission. It needs
some resistance to make it slip.
Rick
San Diego
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 13:05:01 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1 air cleaner elements
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 16:27:23 -0500
Subject: KN Wheels Web Site
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 17:33:56 EDT
Subject: Re: KN Wheels Web Site
> HELP PLEASE!! Does anyone know of a web site for KN Minotaur wheels??
> Desperately need information!!
> Thanks to all,
> Jack
>
Jack--
Try here: <A
HREF="http://home.btconnect.com/KN-Wheels-ltd/MINATOR.htm";>http://home.btconnect.com/KN-Wheels-ltd/MINATOR.htm</A>
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 23:47:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: "mexican" gas tank?
__________________________________________________
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
http://tax.yahoo.com
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 11:50:43 EDT
Subject: Re: "mexican" gas tank?
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 4/8/03 23:49:20, joemulqueen@yahoo.com writes:
<< Hello,
A few weeks back, someone mentioned they were buying a
gas tank made in Mexico. What happened? Is it from
the same Chula Vista based company that's selling new
sheet metal parts on Ebay?
Thanks,
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Redondo Beach, CA >>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 10:30:46 -0700
Subject: Re: "mexican" gas tank?
Is it aluminum or steel?
Thanks.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 14:49:37 EDT
Subject: Well done the good guys
Simon.
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 15:27:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Well done the good guys
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> Even as we read ...
> Deep in a huge bunker complex, somewhere near the Franco-German border, a
> huge commercial task force is sharpening its pencils and preparing itself to
> share in the spoils...should we tell them its too late?
>
> Simon.
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From "Joh Polmans" <j.polmans at hetnet.nl>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 21:48:52 +0200
Subject: Door handle
Who can tell me how to remove the door handle interior side on my BT7.
I want to remove the inner door panel to replace the sidescreen fixing plate.
joh polmans
60 BT&
The Netherlands
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 17:58:50 -0400
Subject: RE: Door handle
The interior door handle should be held on by a small pin installed
under the collapsible escutcheon of the handle. Unfortunately the pins
often get into a position where they prevent the center of the
escutcheon from being depressed to allow access to the pin. This usually
occurs when the pin has been installed vertically rather than
horizontally.
That said however, you should not need to remove the interior door
handle to replace the side screen plate as it is installed on top of the
interior door panel.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joh Polmans
Sent: 9-Apr-03 3:49 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Door handle
hello list,
Who can tell me how to remove the door handle interior side on my BT7.
I want to remove the inner door panel to replace the sidescreen fixing
plate.
joh polmans
60 BT&
The Netherlands
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 19:48:56 EDT
Subject: Proformance? in Santee?
thanks,
Rick
San Diego
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 17:16:09 -0700
Subject: PALO ALTO BRITISH MEET 2003
PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET
SEPTEMBER 13th & 14th, 2003
Once again, be part of the biggest British automotive lawn event in
California. Over 600 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars
are expected to fill the field at El Camino Park for the 24th Annual Palo
Alto British Car Meet.
-----------------------------------------------
SUNDAY SHOW - SEPTEMBER 14th
Join us for the Best All British Car Show In The West! Don't have a show
car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods &
works-in-progress are as welcome as concours quality show cars. Great
British food, jazz, new parts, literature, toys, gifts and more fun than
you'll be able to tolerate! People's Choice awards in six classes. Join
your British car friends for a smashing day at the park.
Cars will be placed on the field, by marque, at about 9:00AM, and the fun
goes on all day. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. There
is no preregistration. All participants will receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
Again this year we will be visited by the Arcane Auto Society and their
wonderful, whimsical cars from around the world. Last year, this was one of
our more popular new features and there is no reason why their display will
not be bigger and more unusual for 2003!
----------------------------------------------
SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 13th The British Car Meet Tour To The Sea
starts at El Camino Park in Palo Alto - the same place as the Sunday Car
Show. This is a no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as
well as show them. It will also be open to the Arcane Auto owners. We will
be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:00AM. Don't be late! The event
will end at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres
and telling tall tales in the car park into the afternoon.
----------------------------------------------
DIRECTIONS El Camino Park is located on the El Camino Real, just north of
University Avenue, opposite Stanford Center. From 101 take University Ave
west, go under the Alma Street overpass, and turn right onto the El Camino
Real. From 280, take the Sandhill Road Exit east and turn right on the El
Camino, stay to the right to the University Ave exit, turn left at the
overpass, then left again back onto the El Camino heading north. PLEASE, DO
NOT PARK TRAILERS IN THE STANFORD CENTER PARKING LOT! Trailer parking will
be available on-site on the south field.
Phone: 310-392-6605 * e-mail: "Britmeet 2002" <rfeibusch1@earthlink.net>
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 19:25:01 -0500
Subject: Re: "mexican" gas tank?
No financial interest, yada, yada.
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: "mexican" gas tank?
> I bought one of the mexican tanks. Yes, it is the same company selling
parts
> on ebay.
> I've not yet installed it.
> It seems to be sturdy, yet has a distinctive "hand-made" quality to it.
> For 159.95 it may not be such a bad deal. Should be fine in my BN6 as it
will
> be under plywood and covering so it will never be seen.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
>
> In a message dated 4/8/03 23:49:20, joemulqueen@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << Hello,
> A few weeks back, someone mentioned they were buying a
> gas tank made in Mexico. What happened? Is it from
> the same Chula Vista based company that's selling new
> sheet metal parts on Ebay?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
> Redondo Beach, CA >>
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 20:44:23 EDT
Subject: Re: "mexican" gas tank?
It will hold gas better than my rusted out, seam separated original. It costs
half what the others costs.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 4/9/03 17:38:14, sooch@houston.rr.com writes:
<< I also bought one of these tanks. Mine installed without any issues at
all.
The sides do not have the vertical indents, but I don't mind...some might.
I measured it u against the old one before I installed it and everything
appeared to be in the same dimensions. The paint job sucks, but I would
have repainted any one that I got anyway.
No financial interest, yada, yada.
Chris
BJ8 >>
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 21:54:26 EDT
Subject: Springthing 2003
We already have people coming from Texas, Florida, Illinois, Ohio, Missouri,
Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana and Tennessee.
Join the Bluegrass Club and all your Healey Friends as we celebrate spring in
beautiful Georgetown, KY.
Register online at our website at <A
HREF="http://www.springthing.info";>www.springthing.info</A> .
Thanks,
James Werner
Louisville, KY
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From "Robert &Sheila Findlay" <findlay1 at blarg.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 19:06:37 -0700
Subject: Morris Minor
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From pcowper at webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 21:36:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Oil Pan Gasket
I put on a new oil pan when I was about 20 years old in 1968. I used
Permatex hardening gasket sealer back then.
My drain plug threads are stripped and I removed the oil pan tonight to
weld in replacement threads for the drain plug.
Any high tech sealants being used now or the same old sticky brown
Permatex?
Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From CEWPlatt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 01:00:08 EDT
Subject: BN1 Carpet Question
Can someone shed some light on the details of the carpet on the vertical
transmission bulkhead? Does the carpet wrap around the bulkhead on the sides,
top? The top look's tough, especially with the several bends for the flange.
Or is the carpet trimmed with the bulkhead and the edges show? As usual with
the pile of parts that I started with, not much to go on. Thanks for the
help.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 BN1
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 23:29:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket
I really like to use Permatex's high heat
"Ultra-Copper" RTV silicone gasket material.
I know new cork seals shrink over time, but the
Permatex copper/silicone gasket will seal strongly
even if the gasket shrinks over time. I understand it
is very flexible and super adhesive... that's why it
retains a seal even in this situation. This stuff
works wonders in all environments except gas.
The nice thing about this stuff too is it is easy to
clean off later when doing maintenance (and much
cleaner than the sticky stuff), and it is the most oil
resistant silicone gasket material I am aware of. I
believe it was designed specifically to seal valve
covers, thermostat housings, and oil pans... so it
should be exactly what you need.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Pete Cowper <pcowper@webtv.net> wrote:
> What type of sealant is currently being used on the
> oil pan's cork
> gasket?
>
> I put on a new oil pan when I was about 20 years old
> in 1968. I used
> Permatex hardening gasket sealer back then.
>
> My drain plug threads are stripped and I removed the
> oil pan tonight to
> weld in replacement threads for the drain plug.
>
> Any high tech sealants being used now or the same
> old sticky brown
> Permatex?
>
> Pete Cowper (1960 BT7)
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 00:34:55 -0700
Subject: BN2 100 M for sale
Bought 15 years ago. Oceanside, CA car. Two or Three Owners.
Complete restoration by Four-in-tune. Drove from there to Conclave '87.
Driven 200 miles since re-build. ('87). Red with black coves.
Interior: Black with red piping.
He believes this was the show car at the Brussels car show.
It was all carmine red. Now has black coves.
$45,000 Firm
PHIL GALLANT - DAYTIME PHONE: 760-433-4112
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 18:59:33 +1000
Subject: Re: BN2 100 M for sale
Not sure which Brussels Show he is claiming, but 3 x 100's were apparently
prepared for the 1954 Brussels Motor Show.
One was Carmine Red, the two other cars were apperently finished in Olive
Green with Green trim, and Black with Off-White trim.
Karsten Stelk appears to have sufficent documentation to prove that his is
the 1954 Carmine red Brussels Show car here:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/stelk.html
As they say - buyer beware....... do your own research first
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 5:34 PM
Subject: BN2 100 M for sale
> Listers:
> I heard about this car. i have not seen it.
> if interested contact them directly.
> Ron R
>
>
> Bought 15 years ago. Oceanside, CA car. Two or Three Owners.
> Complete restoration by Four-in-tune. Drove from there to Conclave '87.
> Driven 200 miles since re-build. ('87). Red with black coves.
> Interior: Black with red piping.
> He believes this was the show car at the Brussels car show.
> It was all carmine red. Now has black coves.
> $45,000 Firm
> PHIL GALLANT - DAYTIME PHONE: 760-433-4112
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 04:43:20 -0700
Subject: fail fest-NJ
Fred
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From GMari58175 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 07:56:05 EDT
Subject: Re: fail fest-NJ
George Marinos
> Is anyone on the list going to this?
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 05:05:17 -0700
Subject: RE: fail fest-NJ
-----Original Message-----
From: GMari58175@aol.com [mailto:GMari58175@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 7:56 AM
To: fred.scheuble@intel.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: fail fest-NJ
With any luck. You are referring to the meet in September aren't you? A
bit in the future, but you know what is said about, "proper prior
planning..."
George Marinos
Is anyone on the list going to this?
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 08:05:41 -0400
Subject: BJ8 electrical/glass
Although the battery seemed charged on my tester I'm going to replace it
(6yrs on a 7yr warranty). Question is how do I test for other possible
faults, i.e. solenoid(original),starter(original rebuilt one time)? I
checked all connections and ground. What would cause it not to turnover with
a jump (other than starter or solenoid)? Could a bad battery prevent current
getting to the starter from the jumper battery?
While all this is transpiring,as I closed the driver side door(gently),
the glass shattered into total disintegration!? What a mess!
I know glass replacement is available. Is there a preferred vendor for this?
And has anyone had good experience with local auto glass installers for this
work. I have replaced this door glass myself once, but I have neither time
or motivation today.
Thanks for any help.
Warren-67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:46:43 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 electrical/glass
Since it is unlikely that anything "broke" while just sitting, I would
suspect two things. Recheck all connections. Wire brush batt cables and
terminal connections and those on the solenoid and starter. Secondly, put
in a known good batt like out of a family vehicle.
>
> While all this is transpiring,as I closed the driver side door(gently),
> the glass shattered into total disintegration!? What a mess!
>
> I know glass replacement is available. Is there a preferred vendor for
this?
> And has anyone had good experience with local auto glass installers for
this
> work. I have replaced this door glass myself once, but I have neither time
> or motivation today.
>
My friend is replacing both door glasses in his BJ7. He may have the origs
for sale if you are interested. They are what I would call G to VG. Just
fine for a driver. Let me know if interested.
Keith Pennell
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 08:10:47 -0600
Subject: Shroud measurement needed
Thanks in advance!
Ken
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 07:47:33 -0700
Subject: starter question
On the early 3000 healeys, does the starter solenoid have the "remote-start"
button like the later healeys? I tried to check my 60 BN7 and although I can
feel what appears to be a soft rubber cap on the end of the solenoid if very
difficult to get my hand on it so I doubt that it does.
Fred
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 11:38:33 EDT
Subject: Re: BN2 100 M for sale
I've known Phil Gallant for many years now and if anyone is serious about
buying this car, I would be glad to look at it and send my evaluation. Phil
lives just minutes from my place and it would be a good excuse to see his
Bugeye Sprite and the 427 Shelby Cobra that he vintage races.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt - Chairman, Austin Healey Concours Committee
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
In a message dated 4/10/03 12:30:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< Listers:
I heard about this car. i have not seen it.
if interested contact them directly.
Ron R
Bought 15 years ago. Oceanside, CA car. Two or Three Owners.
Complete restoration by Four-in-tune. Drove from there to Conclave '87.
Driven 200 miles since re-build. ('87). Red with black coves.
Interior: Black with red piping.
He believes this was the show car at the Brussels car show.
It was all carmine red. Now has black coves.
$45,000 Firm
PHIL GALLANT - DAYTIME PHONE: 760-433-4112 >>
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 11:40:12 EDT
Subject: Re: starter question
Ned Paulsen
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:18:59 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ8 electrical/glass
>While all this is transpiring,as I closed the driver side door(gently),
>the glass shattered into total disintegration!? What a mess!
>
Were there any deep scratches on the glass? The tempered glass is
severely weakened by scratches/gouges usually inflicted by trim panel
or inside handle screws that are too long.
I bought replacements through Moss and they fit and look like new except
they don't have the original logo. It's a good time to inspect and
possibly replace the nylon pieces that guide the window frame in the
channel and clean/lube the window regulator mechanism. Triple check that
the proper length screws are used for the door trim and handle. Would a
glass installer be able to do this? Maybe but there are a lot of "quick
and dirty" glass installation shops. Better to find someone with Healey
experience.
Cheers,
John
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From "Sid Bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 10:15:17 -0600
Subject: Clips for door panels
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:57:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Shroud measurement needed
I have a "61 BN7 Tri-carb that just came out of the body shop last month w/
very good panel and hood fit. If I understand your question correctly; the
distance between the front screws is 24 5/8" and the rear screws is 25
15/16" The right side screws are further to the rear than the left ones
because the pillars are staggered. Also, the right front screw also holds
the rear of the hood prop rod bracket. Hope this helps.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 7:10 AM
Subject: Shroud measurement needed
> I have a '62 BN7 Tri-carb. The front shroud has attachment points on the
inside where the engine hood goes. I'm speaking of the two pillars that
rise from the frame, then have a small bent-over triangle-like piece on top.
The shroud screws onto this piece in two places for each side. They are
turned in slightly to match the shape of the hood opening. Can anyone tell
me what the distance is between the two screws at the front of the triangle,
and the two at the back. That is, how far across the hood opening are they?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ken
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 11:24:24 -0600
Subject: RE: Shroud measurement needed
-----Original Message-----
From: John Snyder [mailto:johnahsn@olypen.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 10:57 AM
To: Ken Ballard;
Subject: Re: Shroud measurement needed
Hi Ken,
I have a "61 BN7 Tri-carb that just came out of the body shop last month w/
very good panel and hood fit. If I understand your question correctly; the
distance between the front screws is 24 5/8" and the rear screws is 25
15/16" The right side screws are further to the rear than the left ones
because the pillars are staggered. Also, the right front screw also holds
the rear of the hood prop rod bracket. Hope this helps.
John Snyder
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard@Coalfiresystems.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 7:10 AM
Subject: Shroud measurement needed
> I have a '62 BN7 Tri-carb. The front shroud has attachment points on the
inside where the engine hood goes. I'm speaking of the two pillars that
rise from the frame, then have a small bent-over triangle-like piece on top.
The shroud screws onto this piece in two places for each side. They are
turned in slightly to match the shape of the hood opening. Can anyone tell
me what the distance is between the two screws at the front of the triangle,
and the two at the back. That is, how far across the hood opening are they?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ken
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:24:32 -0400
Subject: RE: BJ8 electrical/glass
We all have days like that now and again, some of us more frequently
than others I fear.
The most important test to diagnose your starting problem is to get an
accurate voltage reading at the starter motor power terminal while you
are trying to crank the engine. It should be better than 9 volts. If it
is less than this you probably have a supply problem if better probably
a starter problem. However all bets are off if there is a massive short
within the starter.
Re the window.. Before you install the new one take a real close look at
the screws that have been used to hold the door pull handle on. Using
sharp pointed self tappers that are too long has broken more BJ8 door
windows that I would care to think about. The screws should be no more
than 3/4" long and have a flat end.
While you are at it check the other side.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Warren Dietz
Sent: 10-Apr-03 8:06 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BJ8 electrical/glass
Just got the Healey out of 6 month storage and sorry to say I have a
double whammy from gitgo. It was extremely difficult to start(turnover)
even with a power boost battery pack and a jump start from another
vehicle.
It sounded a buzz and click. It finally started turning over slowly and
fired and after driving for several miles, all electrical seemed fine
until
I shut it off and tried starting again. Couldn't get it to start even
with
jump or power pack,just got the buzz sound. Started only by push.
Although the battery seemed charged on my tester I'm going to replace
it
(6yrs on a 7yr warranty). Question is how do I test for other possible
faults, i.e. solenoid(original),starter(original rebuilt one time)? I
checked all connections and ground. What would cause it not to turnover
with
a jump (other than starter or solenoid)? Could a bad battery prevent
current
getting to the starter from the jumper battery?
While all this is transpiring,as I closed the driver side door(gently),
the glass shattered into total disintegration!? What a mess!
I know glass replacement is available. Is there a preferred vendor for
this?
And has anyone had good experience with local auto glass installers for
this
work. I have replaced this door glass myself once, but I have neither
time
or motivation today.
Thanks for any help.
Warren-67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:27:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Clips for door panels
> Couldn't find them listed in Moss.
>
They are listed with the "Miscellaneous Trim Fittings item #113 Moss part
number 317-070 clip, door panel 18 required.
Marion Brantley
Concours Committee member
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From Julian Calverley <julian at calverley.co.uk>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 19:08:09 +0100
Subject: HMC for sale - off topic?
I hope this post isn't too off topic and doesn't offend?
I have an HMC for sale.
Although not a true Healey it is a beautiful hand built car and has had many
compliments from Healey owners that I have met.
Due to the fact my family has grown it is no longer practical for me to keep the
vehicle.
Anyone who may be interested should go to http://www.calverley.co.uk/hmc/
Kind regards
Julian
===========================================
JULIAN CALVERLEY PHOTOGRAPHER
http://www.calverley.co.uk
T:+44 (0)1 462 441251 F:+44 (0)1 462 441211
Mobile: 07971 272815
A part of Propeller Studios Limited
===========================================
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:50:41 -0400
Subject: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history
Did the very early cars not have the first gear blocked out, and if that's
the case, when did the BN-1 go to a '3 speed'?
Thanks,
CB
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:09:42 -0400
Subject: direction for directionals
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From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:14:51 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Seats
Win Graham
63 BJ7
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From Bill Pollock <wjpollock at erols.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:12:36 -0400
Subject: BN4 carpet set
Does anyone know of a source showing the location of the snaps and how
many were used.
Were upholstery screws also used and if they were,where were they used.
Armrest. How was the arm rest installed.
Thanks-Bill Pollock
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:13:02 -0500
Subject: RE: direction for directionals
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Broughel [mailto:brougheldp@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 3:10 PM
To: austin healey
Subject: direction for directionals
Dear list:
The restoration is almost complete, with the exception of panels and
carpets on order from heritage.
I have head lights, high and low... parking lights, front and rear but
no directional. when I activate the trafficator (it is not in the
steering wheel yet) all I hear is a single noise coming from the
flasher unit on the fender. I have a new flasher unit near the bulkhead,
I have checked the wires and all appear to be correct.
I also don't have any brake lights.
any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance ......Dennis
Broughel.........Bn-4........45281
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 17:17:21 -0400
Subject: RE: starter question
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of NPaul72464@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 11:40 AM
To: fred.scheuble@intel.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: starter question
My '60 BN7 has the button on the starter.
Ned Paulsen
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From Barry <BlueSky at execpc.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 18:20:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Shroud measurement needed
If you need any more measurements to double check-- I have a '62 TriCarb with
an unmolested front end.
Cheers, Barry (Milwaukee)
Ken Ballard wrote:
> I have a '62 BN7 Tri-carb. The front shroud has attachment points on the
>inside where the engine hood goes. I'm speaking of the two pillars that rise
>from the frame, then have a small bent-over triangle-like piece on top.
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From "Scott H." <austrheamgafun at arczip.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 18:37:36 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 Seats
I have a pair of original leather BT7 seats off the car right now. If you
need photo's I can provide them.
Scott Helms
----- Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
To: "List, Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 3:14 PM
Subject: BJ7 Seats
> I'm trying to figure out if the seats in my car are actually what is
> supposed to be there. Does anyone know where I can find some pictures
> of a BJ7 seats without the upholstery on them? I would hate to send
> them off to Heritage to be recovered only to find they aren't the right
> seats. Thanks.
>
> Win Graham
> 63 BJ7
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 17:17:12 -0700
Subject: Re: BJ7 Seats
>Does anyone know where I can find some pictures
>of a BJ7 seats without the upholstery on them?
>
Win,
Does this help? This is from my BJ7
http://www.loftusdesign.net/healey_seat_notes.html
Cheers,
John
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From "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347 at mail.wvnet.edu>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 21:26:58 -0400
Subject: BJ7 Registry Help
-
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics
AHCUSA,ACHA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Morgantown, WV
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 18:51:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BJ8 electrical/glass
I'll keep it as brief as possible...
1) Starting problems. Check to make sure your hot
battery cable is not grounding against the chassis or
motor between the battery and solenoid. A
particularly good place to look is where the cable
bends up the right footwell next to the clutch slave
cylinder. The battery cable can kink here and rub
against the clutch slave as the motor is vibrating,
rubbing away the insulation and grounding your main
battery connection....
1a) You may also want to check to make sure your motor
is properly grounded, as it sounds like it's not
grounding properly.
1b) your starter may have a bad armature and needs to
be rebuilt.
2) Door glass - I bought door glass from AH Spares in
the UK... I'm sure Moss or any other door glass is
fine. Main thing is to make sure the rear glass
channel is properly secured (the one inside the door)
- does the door make a funny feignt springy noise when
you shut the door? If so it means your rear channel
is loose and that's why your window has broken -
replacing it without fixing the channel will only mean
your replacement will break also, no matter who
installed it.
Cheers & good luck,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Just got the Healey out of 6 month storage and
> sorry to say I have a
> double whammy from gitgo. It was extremely difficult
> to start(turnover)
> even with a power boost battery pack and a jump
> start from another vehicle.
> It sounded a buzz and click. It finally started
> turning over slowly and
> fired and after driving for several miles, all
> electrical seemed fine until
> I shut it off and tried starting again. Couldn't get
> it to start even with
> jump or power pack,just got the buzz sound. Started
> only by push.
>
> Although the battery seemed charged on my tester
> I'm going to replace it
> (6yrs on a 7yr warranty). Question is how do I test
> for other possible
> faults, i.e. solenoid(original),starter(original
> rebuilt one time)? I
> checked all connections and ground. What would cause
> it not to turnover with
> a jump (other than starter or solenoid)? Could a bad
> battery prevent current
> getting to the starter from the jumper battery?
>
> While all this is transpiring,as I closed the driver
> side door(gently),
> the glass shattered into total disintegration!? What
> a mess!
>
> I know glass replacement is available. Is there a
> preferred vendor for this?
> And has anyone had good experience with local auto
> glass installers for this
> work. I have replaced this door glass myself once,
> but I have neither time
> or motivation today.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Warren-67 BJ8
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 19:01:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: direction for directionals
It sounds like your flasher relay is not working. Run
at it with an electrical tester while running your
trafficator through all its paces. Also make sure
everything is properly grounded and brake lights are
hooke up also... as the trafficator may not work
properly if your brake lights aren't hooked up....
cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Dear list:
> The restoration is almost complete, with the
> exception of panels and
> carpets on order from heritage.
> I have head lights, high and low... parking lights,
> front and rear but
> no directional. when I activate the trafficator (it
> is not in the
> steering wheel yet) all I hear is a single noise
> coming from the
> flasher unit on the fender. I have a new flasher
> unit near the bulkhead,
> I have checked the wires and all appear to be
> correct.
> I also don't have any brake lights.
> any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance
> ......Dennis
> Broughel.........Bn-4........45281
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:30:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Clips for door panels
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 23:46:18 -0700
Subject: Re: direction for directionals
Had a similar problem recently. No right turn signals. Removed the flasher
relay and found one contact was out of adjustment. Just followed the manual
to do the adjustment. Not hard to do. Also cleaned up the contacts while I
was in there.
Keith Pennell
> Dear list:
> The restoration is almost complete, with the exception of panels and
> carpets on order from heritage.
> I have head lights, high and low... parking lights, front and rear but
> no directional. when I activate the trafficator (it is not in the
> steering wheel yet) all I hear is a single noise coming from the
> flasher unit on the fender. I have a new flasher unit near the bulkhead,
> I have checked the wires and all appear to be correct.
> I also don't have any brake lights.
> any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance ......Dennis
> Broughel.........Bn-4........45281
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 00:17:07 EDT
Subject: Priming Fuel Pump
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
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From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 05:58:13 -0400
Subject: Update: BJ8 electrical/glass
I'm happy to report that all's fine with electrics, as the battery was
the culprit. The lesson learned; a bad battery could prevent jump starting?!
All connections are now clean and secure.
Now onto the purchase of replacemnet door glass? I think I will just go
with new, thanks Keith for info on the used BJ7 glass of your friend.
Warren
67 BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:39:24 -0400
Subject: RE: direction for directionals
Randy Cooper
60 BT7 w 65 engine
>>> "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com> 04/10/03 05:13PM >>>
Hi Dennis, do you have all the light bulbs installed and/or are you sure the
bulbs are good?? Some flasher unit will not operate without the proper
resistance furnished by the bulbs. Just my $0.02 worth for you.
Jack
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:46:21 EDT
Subject: Re: direction for directionals
> Our problem I think is in the relay on the left fender well.
Dave Porter of Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque, NM-a frequent contributor of
knowledge to our list--reportedly makes an all solid-state replacement
flasher rellay unit that appears as original. Contact him directly at:
frogeye@swcp.com
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:53:58 -0400
Subject: RE: Priming Fuel Pump
It is very important to eliminate any air leaks in the pick up line to
the pump, including any that may be internal to the tank!! The smallest
leak will allow air in and prevent the pump from priming.
A good method for check for leaks when the tank is installed and fueled
is to slightly pressurize the tank through the filler neck to about 3 -
4 p.s.i. Of course you need to have a source of compressed air (lungs
won't cut it). You can just put an air gun down the filler neck and
stuff rags around to fill the gap.
If you hold the pressure for a minute or two, fuel will exude from any
leaks in the pickup pipe. (I like that word EXUDE, so expressive). This
will find any leaks which are external to the tank...internal you are on
your own!!
We actually have a cap and regulator setup that we use to do the job.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of WilKo@aol.com
Sent: 11-Apr-03 12:17 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Priming Fuel Pump
Hi,
I just installed that new gastank and can't get the pump to shut off.
I'm
guessing it just can't get the fuel out. Do these SU fuel pumps need to
be
primed or do I have a fuel line leak? There's no mention of priming in
my
Drake Manual...
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:10:26 -0500
Subject: Steering Box, Progress, Questions
I have purchased a new bushing for the steering peg, in fact there is little
or no difference between the old bush and the new, if anything the old bush
is ever so slightly tighter.
There is perceptible play between the bushing and the peg, it is very
slight, to the point where at first I thought there was none, bit I can by
feel and sight jst percieve some play.
it appears as though (this is the early BN1 without the top adjustment on
the box) I could extend out the bushing by cutting it in half or using part
of one and the rest of the other so that it covers aproximately 50% more of
the shaft of the peg, it would also then be on the part of the peg that is
worn less and I would lose some but not quite all of the play, as well as
more surface area for the bush and better placement of the bush to limit
lateral movement because it covers a longer are of the peg, anyone tried
this or any thoughts on this solution?
My other option is to try to get a microscopically smaller bush or somehow
build up the peg, can a local full service machine shop handle that or does
it have to go to a specialist--if so any suggestions, or any idea of cost of
this service.
Thanks in advance for your answers, I saw a nice late sixties Spitfire on
the road yesterday, drving top down in the sun, it increased my already
strong desire to have the Healey back in service for spring driving.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:40:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Priming Fuel Pump
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 11:17 PM
Subject: Priming Fuel Pump
> Hi,
> I just installed that new gastank and can't get the pump to shut off. I'm
> guessing it just can't get the fuel out. Do these SU fuel pumps need to be
> primed or do I have a fuel line leak? There's no mention of priming in my
> Drake Manual...
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 08:53:03 -0400
Subject: Shock absorber fluid
Do I have to buy a fluid from Moss (they won't tell me what it is) or is there
an acceptable fluid that can be bought locally (Autozone, NAPA etc)?
How much fluid do I need to drain and refill all 4 shocks?
Fred
"63BJ7
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 14:55:49 +0200
Subject: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
after having separated the two halves of my front callipers i could clean and
hone the bores of the pistons. Wire brushing the exterior of the two parts I
noticed a rather deep hole and decided that should be the bleed screw nipple
hole.
In one of the dozens of jamjars the P.O. left me I found two new bleed screws
but I'm afraid either the thread has disappeared from the bore, or the bleed
screw is the wrong size. (I hope for the last).
The bleed nipple I try to use is 1.234" long over all, the tapered part is
0.149" long, then follows a smooth cilindrical part of 0.205" long, a threaded
part of 0.298" long, then again a short cylindrical part, a hexagon, a
cilindrical part and the mushroom shaped head. At the feel of it, the thread
on the bleed screw does not meet the thread inside the bore.
Can anyone tell me whether this is the correct bleed screw for a BJ8 disc
brake?
As usual: thanks in advance!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 09:17:38 -0500
Subject: RE: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
-----Original Message-----
From: Jaap Aeckerlin [mailto:j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl]
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 7:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
Healeyphiles,
after having separated the two halves of my front callipers i could clean and
hone the bores of the pistons. Wire brushing the exterior of the two parts I
noticed a rather deep hole and decided that should be the bleed screw nipple
hole.
In one of the dozens of jamjars the P.O. left me I found two new bleed screws
but I'm afraid either the thread has disappeared from the bore, or the bleed
screw is the wrong size. (I hope for the last).
The bleed nipple I try to use is 1.234" long over all, the tapered part is
0.149" long, then follows a smooth cilindrical part of 0.205" long, a threaded
part of 0.298" long, then again a short cylindrical part, a hexagon, a
cilindrical part and the mushroom shaped head. At the feel of it, the thread
on the bleed screw does not meet the thread inside the bore.
Can anyone tell me whether this is the correct bleed screw for a BJ8 disc
brake?
As usual: thanks in advance!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 2943
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From "Charley Braum" <cbaustin at sgi.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:34:04 -0400
Subject: Re: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history - 2 (long)
The car I'm referring to was, perhaps, the second BN-1 into the US. It
went directly to the west coast to Bob Botwinick who says, "this car's a
pilot model, one of the two assembled in a big hurry for the International
Motor Sports Show in New York"; "keep that in mind since it may have a few
bugs that production cars won't".
Motor Trend did a 'drive-around', not a full blown test due to the above
comments. The issue is Nov'53. The photos in the article clearly show the
early, peaked, grille assembly. Some of the photos, being old and B&W, are
not real clear, however, there does not appear to be a badge on the boot
lid, the fuel filler in the boot appears to be more vertical that I'm used
to seeing, the boot latch receiver looks different, there is a section of
weather-stripping on the lower edge of the boot opening only (not extending
up the sides), the engine compartment clearly shows the flasher relay
installed at an angle (~45 degrees with the lower part towards the front of
the car), no heater water valve, fan blades very dark in colour and an
hexagon shaped radiator cap. One other note; the windscreen seal, on the
cover photo, is laying very flat on the cowling (no 'bump' at the ends!)
This car was all aluminum (test weight 1900 lbs). The comment that got
my attention was "electrically operated overdrive ("toggle switch on the
instrument panel") gives you virtually six speeds forward, any one of them
instantly available".
Now for the kicker, if you squint and look real hard at the gear shift
knob in the photo of the interior, it looks like it has a four-speed pattern
on it!
I guess my question boils down to; did the first four or five 'demo'
cars have access to all four gears with OD on the top two, and then first
was subsequently 'blocked out' when the car actually went into production?
An alternate question might be; did the earliest cars have OD on all three
gears?
Sorry to be so long-winded but this caught my attention.
CB
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 10:44:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
The thread in the caliper for both the line and the bleed screw are the
same size 0.375" N.F. thread.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jaap Aeckerlin
Sent: 11-Apr-03 8:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
Healeyphiles,
after having separated the two halves of my front callipers i could
clean and
hone the bores of the pistons. Wire brushing the exterior of the two
parts I
noticed a rather deep hole and decided that should be the bleed screw
nipple
hole.
In one of the dozens of jamjars the P.O. left me I found two new bleed
screws
but I'm afraid either the thread has disappeared from the bore, or the
bleed
screw is the wrong size. (I hope for the last).
The bleed nipple I try to use is 1.234" long over all, the tapered part
is
0.149" long, then follows a smooth cilindrical part of 0.205" long, a
threaded
part of 0.298" long, then again a short cylindrical part, a hexagon, a
cilindrical part and the mushroom shaped head. At the feel of it, the
thread
on the bleed screw does not meet the thread inside the bore.
Can anyone tell me whether this is the correct bleed screw for a BJ8
disc
brake?
As usual: thanks in advance!
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:34:27 EDT
Subject: Re: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history - 2 (long)
<< I guess my question boils down to; did the first four or five 'demo'
cars have access to all four gears with OD on the top two, and then first
was subsequently 'blocked out' when the car actually went into production?
An alternate question might be; did the earliest cars have OD on all three
gears? >>
The original question was clear, and you answered it on your own. Until
now...That overdrive on three gears is a possibility...
I'm pretty sure that they had the regular four speed box and two overdrive
gears and found the first gear to unusable (stump pulling maybe).
Your source material might be all there is to answerthe question...
Rick
San Diego
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:37:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Priming Fuel Pump (thanks)
I was suspecting pickup line leaking, buyt wasn't too sure as I had used a
bit of pipe dope and just figgered it must have sealed.
You guys put up some good diagnostic help as well as solutions (Teflon tape)
Thanks again,
Rick
San Diego
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From TBanks at LEVI.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 09:15:18 -0700
Subject: Which Penrite oil for BJ8 diff?
Rgds,
Tom Banks
'64 BJ8
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 12:42:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Which Penrite oil for BJ8 diff?
The Mild EP is for the early BN1's with the 4 stud rear end. All the rest
should use the Hypoid 80W/90.
If you would like a brochure and Penrite's Lubrication Recommendation Sheet
for your 64 Healey and all others Donald developed please let me have your
mailing address and I will get one in the mail to you.
Thanks and God Bless
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:15 AM 4/11/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Penrite market 3 hypoid oils for rear diff usage - Mild EP, Hypoid 80W/90
>and Hypoid 85W/140. Which is best suited for use in the rear diff of a BJ8?
>
>Rgds,
>Tom Banks
>'64 BJ8
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From "Sam Shaub" <sfsyorkpa at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:51:55 +0000
Subject: Re: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history - 2 (long)
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From "Sam Shaub" <sfsyorkpa at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:53:11 +0000
Subject: Re: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history - 2 (long)
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From "Sam Shaub" <sfsyorkpa at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 18:55:52 +0000
Subject: Re: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history - 2 (long)
Creeper gear for delivery trucks.
>Your source material might be all there is to answerthe question...
>
>Rick San Diego
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
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From "Scott Johnstone" <swjohnst at optusnet.com.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 07:33:56 +1000
Subject: Re: 3 speed -vs- 4 speed history - 2 (long)
Scott Johnstone
BN1 x lots
BN2
BN4
BN7
BJ8
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From michaelwilliams at attbi.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:48:39 +0000
Subject: BN1 Oil Pressure Line
How should the oil pressure line be routed from the gauge to the engine block
on a BN1? Does it pass through the firewall or is it one of the lines that
tucks behind the transmission extension panel? If through the firewall, please
give some description as to the location and size of the hole. Unfortunatley,
my firewall has a number of "extra" holes, put there by some PO. This makes
the fact that the oil pressure line was sharing a hole with the temperature
probe a bit ironic.
--Michael
'55 BN1 (holy firewall)
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 19:17:11 EDT
Subject: Engine woes
Rick
San Diego
members.aol.com/wilko
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:32:40 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Oil Pressure Line
Actually, your line is not too far off. The correct hole is 1.25 inches
below & 1.25 inches inboard of the temp hole.
There is a formed copper hard line with a 2 inch diameter 1.25 turn full
loop the long end of which goes back through the firewall. The engine
side connects to a 10 inch long flex line which attaches to the engine.
Both holes have rubber grommets.
1.25 inches directly below the temp. hole is a hole to secure
two metal clamps, one of which holds the hard oil line & the other holds
the wiring loom. I could probably send you an email pic if needed.
Dave Russell
BN2
michaelwilliams@attbi.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
> How should the oil pressure line be routed from the gauge to the
> engine block on a BN1? Does it pass through the firewall or is it one
> of the lines that tucks behind the transmission extension panel? If
> through the firewall, please give some description as to the location
> and size of the hole. Unfortunatley, my firewall has a number of
> "extra" holes, put there by some PO. This makes the fact that the oil
> pressure line was sharing a hole with the temperature probe a bit
> ironic.
>
> --Michael '55 BN1 (holy firewall)
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From Scot Paulson <SPAULSON1 at compuserve.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 20:09:23 -0400
Subject: Radiator paint
Scot
'66 BJ8
HBJ8L36081
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:01:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Radiator paint
<< I have the radiator out of the BJ8 doing some soldering on it and would
like to spruce up the paint a bit while it's out.. Anyone have a preference
to a certain type/brand of original black paint. Was this a flat black or a
semi-gloss paint? >>
Scot,
Eastwood makes a special radiator paint that is outstanding. I used it on my
'60 Bugeye and Roger Moment used it on his BN1. It goes on easy, dries
quickly, not too thick and looks like OEM. It is semi-gloss.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:51:46 EDT
Subject: Ditzler Paint Code
A member of our local AHC chapter who is not a subscriber to this list (his
email address is shown as a cc) has asked me what is the proper Ditzler code
for "Ivory White" for his BN7. Can someone please respond to him directly
with the answer?
Thanks--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 23:15:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaap Aeckerlin <j.aeckerlin@tiscali.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 7:55 AM
Subject: Disc Brake Bleed Nipple
> Healeyphiles,
>
> after having separated the two halves of my front callipers i could clean
and
> hone the bores of the pistons. Wire brushing the exterior of the two parts
I
> noticed a rather deep hole and decided that should be the bleed screw
nipple
> hole.
> In one of the dozens of jamjars the P.O. left me I found two new bleed
screws
> but I'm afraid either the thread has disappeared from the bore, or the
bleed
> screw is the wrong size. (I hope for the last).
> The bleed nipple I try to use is 1.234" long over all, the tapered part is
> 0.149" long, then follows a smooth cilindrical part of 0.205" long, a
threaded
> part of 0.298" long, then again a short cylindrical part, a hexagon, a
> cilindrical part and the mushroom shaped head. At the feel of it, the
thread
> on the bleed screw does not meet the thread inside the bore.
> Can anyone tell me whether this is the correct bleed screw for a BJ8 disc
> brake?
>
> As usual: thanks in advance!
>
> Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
> 1964 BJ8 29432
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 06:33:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine woes
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 6:17 PM
Subject: Engine woes
> I've been too busy in last few years to get any real work done on my car.
You
> know, the one at my website. Well I finally started throwing money at it.
Got
> that gas tank rebuilt my carbs a couple of weeks ago.
> So, I dropped my engine off at a shop to get rebuilt.
> I asked recently about a shop in san diego somewhere because I wasn't
getting
> much communication from the shop that's had my engine since the first of
> March.
> I just heard today that they went out of business. They moved. Their
number
> is disconnected. They have my 3000 Block, My hot cam, my ported/polished
> head. F*CK!
>
> Rick
> San Diego
> members.aol.com/wilko
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 08:56:18 -0500
Subject: looking for thermo carb parts
What we are looking for is the three way adapter off of the carb,
Also, if someone has a thermo carb setup, we desperately need pictures of how
the thing looks and works. Especially, pics where the fuel lines go into the
manifold.
Lastly, what is a good substitute for the nipple of whatever it is that screws
into the manifold?
My friend Karl is in town this weekend, no kids, no wives, no girlfriends, just
lots of beer and wrenchin' on our Healeys. Thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 08:06:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Engine woes
Is there anything we can do to help?
Do you know where your engine is?
Do you know where the shop owner is?
Maybe some owners in the San Diego area can help?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> I've been too busy in last few years to get any real
> work done on my car. You
> know, the one at my website. Well I finally started
> throwing money at it. Got
> that gas tank rebuilt my carbs a couple of weeks
> ago.
> So, I dropped my engine off at a shop to get
> rebuilt.
> I asked recently about a shop in san diego somewhere
> because I wasn't getting
> much communication from the shop that's had my
> engine since the first of
> March.
> I just heard today that they went out of business.
> They moved. Their number
> is disconnected. They have my 3000 Block, My hot
> cam, my ported/polished
> head. F*CK!
>
> Rick
> San Diego
> members.aol.com/wilko
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 11:22:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine woes
At 08:06 AM 4/12/2003 -0700, Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Rick -
>
>Is there anything we can do to help?
>
>Do you know where your engine is?
>
>Do you know where the shop owner is?
>
>Maybe some owners in the San Diego area can help?
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> > I've been too busy in last few years to get any real
> > work done on my car. You
> > know, the one at my website. Well I finally started
> > throwing money at it. Got
> > that gas tank rebuilt my carbs a couple of weeks
> > ago.
> > So, I dropped my engine off at a shop to get
> > rebuilt.
> > I asked recently about a shop in san diego somewhere
> > because I wasn't getting
> > much communication from the shop that's had my
> > engine since the first of
> > March.
> > I just heard today that they went out of business.
> > They moved. Their number
> > is disconnected. They have my 3000 Block, My hot
> > cam, my ported/polished
> > head. F*CK!
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
> > members.aol.com/wilko
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 10:26:07 -0500
Subject: Re: looking for thermo carb parts
The best thing about the thermo carb was when they discontinued them and
went back to the hand choke. Why not look for a set HSs or HDs and forget
about the thermology device that was bad from the start. The change would
give you more control over your carb performance.
But if your going for the original concourse thing disregard all of the
above.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: <dicksonr@uwm.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 8:56 AM
Subject: looking for thermo carb parts
> I'm looking for some parts for a thermo carb for my friends 1960 Healey.
>
> What we are looking for is the three way adapter off of the carb,
>
> Also, if someone has a thermo carb setup, we desperately need pictures of
how
> the thing looks and works. Especially, pics where the fuel lines go into
the
> manifold.
>
> Lastly, what is a good substitute for the nipple of whatever it is that
screws
> into the manifold?
>
> My friend Karl is in town this weekend, no kids, no wives, no girlfriends,
just
> lots of beer and wrenchin' on our Healeys. Thanks in advance.
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> Sturgeon Bay, WI
> 63 BJ-7
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 09:31:51 -0700
Subject: 100-4 motor needed
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 12:57:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine woes
Another good reason why the details of the cars should be documented and
preserved in a registry.
Good luck with this, Rick. I'm very sorry it happened to you.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: tom mitchell
To: Blue One Hundred
Cc: WilKo@aol.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Engine woes
Do you know your engine number?
Any idea where he might have moved too?
Is his home address still the same?
Have you physically checked the location to see if anything is still
laying around and maybe just the phone is disconnected and he moving while
we are talking?
At 08:06 AM 4/12/2003 -0700, Blue One Hundred wrote:
>Rick -
>
>Is there anything we can do to help?
>
>Do you know where your engine is?
>
>Do you know where the shop owner is?
>
>Maybe some owners in the San Diego area can help?
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
>
>--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
> > I've been too busy in last few years to get any real
> > work done on my car. You
> > know, the one at my website. Well I finally started
> > throwing money at it. Got
> > that gas tank rebuilt my carbs a couple of weeks
> > ago.
> > So, I dropped my engine off at a shop to get
> > rebuilt.
> > I asked recently about a shop in san diego somewhere
> > because I wasn't getting
> > much communication from the shop that's had my
> > engine since the first of
> > March.
> > I just heard today that they went out of business.
> > They moved. Their number
> > is disconnected. They have my 3000 Block, My hot
> > cam, my ported/polished
> > head. F*CK!
> >
> > Rick
> > San Diego
> > members.aol.com/wilko
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 13:12:07 EDT
Subject: Re: looking for thermo carb parts
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 13:42:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine woes
The old shop is locked up with no sign saying "we've moved". No note...no
nuthin'.
I went to the street where the new address that he gave me is, and found no
new shop.
I was able to find out that the owner had two businesses, one specializeing
in water pumps. That business had a forward on their phone machine with the
new address, name and phone number. It's saturday so there's no answer.
It looks like I may get it back. I continually asked if they even wanted to
work on the engine before he took it, he kept insisting that he wanted to it.
Now what do I do? He's had the engine over one month and not even mic'd it.
I'd like it brought back to me, and I don't want to pay him anything.
Rick
San Diego
Thanks for all your advise on help and such. I don't even have the engine
number. I'm such a dork.
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 14:08:52 -0400
Subject: RE: looking for thermo carb parts
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dicksonr@uwm.edu
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 9:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: looking for thermo carb parts
I'm looking for some parts for a thermo carb for my friends 1960 Healey.
What we are looking for is the three way adapter off of the carb,
Also, if someone has a thermo carb setup, we desperately need pictures of
how
the thing looks and works. Especially, pics where the fuel lines go into
the
manifold.
Lastly, what is a good substitute for the nipple of whatever it is that
screws
into the manifold?
My friend Karl is in town this weekend, no kids, no wives, no girlfriends,
just
lots of beer and wrenchin' on our Healeys. Thanks in advance.
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI
63 BJ-7
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 14:41:59 EDT
Subject: Re: looking for thermo carb parts
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 13:21:30 -0700
Subject: auxiliary fans
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 16:27:04 EDT
Subject: Stuck clutch
First - thanks for all of your help so far.
Clutch is STILL stuck, and, I have a situation that I may not have made
clear. The car is garaged in a place (fairly sharply sloped driveway, winding
narrow streets, etc.) where I just cannot safely "lunge" out, in gear. I
REALLY do not want to tow unless I must.
I have done the following, after getting engine warm:
(1) "Hopped" the car, back and forth in 1st and reverse, alternately, by
starting car in gear, with coil wire disconnected.
(2) With rear end on stands, run the engine, in all gears, up to 3000-4000
RPM, and with clutch fully depressed - to give maximum applicable pull-away
force, as opposed to rotational - slammed on the brakes, with no luck. The
foot brake will slow, but not stop, the wheels at high RPM, but the emergency
brake easily does, at least at slower speeds.
Since my first post, I have been able to watch the slave cylinder rod while
someone else depressed the clutch. It appears to move properly (but clearly
isn't going that last fraction of an inch). Fluid reservoir has remained
full, and there are no leaks from hose(s), etc.
Should I just repeat what I have been doing, or, does someone have a trick
that I can accomplish in my garage? I have about eight feet clear, to "hop"
in.
Thanks again,
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Mike Brouillette" <brouillette at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 17:39:26 -0400
Subject: Heat shield painted?
Can anyone tell me how the front of the heat shield should be
prepared? The P.O. did a crinkle black finish that was definitely not heat
resistant and I need to refinish it while I have it off.
Is it just heat resistant black or something else?
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 16:25:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Well done the good guys
I think each should contribute in the manner for
which they they are most
qualified. The Germans are very fastidious and the
French are quite proud of
their great skill with sewers, therefore their
contribution to the recovery
should be confined to solid waste management. The
Germans can have the garbage
and the French can have the umm "merde".
Bill Lawrence
Simonlachlan@aol.com wrote:
> Even as we read ...
> Deep in a huge bunker complex, somewhere near the Franco-German border, a
> huge commercial task force is sharpening its pencils and preparing itself to
> share in the spoils...should we tell them its too late?
>
> Simon.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 18:28:52 -0500
Subject: Re: auxiliary fans
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From MBran89793 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 21:02:15 EDT
Subject: Re: Heat shield painted?
> Is it just heat resistant black or something else?
>
>
The color should be "engine color" in particular if you are preparing for a
Concours inspection.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Concours Committee Member
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 23:10:58 EDT
Subject: Re: looking for thermo carb parts
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 23:45:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket
<<
I have my pan off to repair the stripped out drain plug threads. I
looked though the 137 pages I have of your Tech Talk and have not found
any reference to modern sealants to use on the cork oil pan gasket.
My 1968 printing shop manual says to just smear both sides with grease.
I posted to the Healey list and received multiple answers mostly
favoring RTV, bit spread through black, blue and Ultra-C >>
PETE . My Tech Talk book now has 221 pages we can bring yours up-todate .60
per double page .
I use Permatex #51813 anerobic or super 300, # 83H
Try these for your other problem ... Norman Nock
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 00:13:10 -0700
Subject: Re: looking for thermo carb parts
I hear this is true, but I for one really like the set up. Of course, my
sensor is permanently grounded so I just installed a switch under the dash.
All I have to do is turn on ign, turn on thermocarb switch, and hit the
starter button. It starts and runs. Don't even touch the accel
Keith Pennell
> I hope you and Randy are very happy together.:)
>
> The best thing about the thermo carb was when they discontinued them
and
> went back to the hand choke. Why not look for a set HSs or HDs and forget
> about the thermology device that was bad from the start. The change would
> give you more control over your carb performance.
> But if your going for the original concourse thing disregard all of
the
> above.
>
> Mark
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 22:36:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: auxiliary fans
Auxiliary fans seem to do more harm than good in terms
of keeping your car cool.
It seems that some people get fair results by mounting
the fan not too close to the radiator on the cross
brace in front of the radiator. If it is mounted too
close to the radiator, the pancake motor blocks too
much of the primary cooling area on the rad, and the
motor will actually run hotter than without the fan.
The texas cooler is a good idea (or some other six
blade equivalent like a hayden fan), and make sure the
cooling system is clean, thermostat is a 160 or 180.
Other things are to have the core swapped out for a
four row core OR an excel core, which help transfer
heat much better.
Also since you are in vegas, perhaps running less
antifreeze is a good idea too... water tranfers alot
more heat than antifreeze...
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- James Shope <healeymanjim@JoiMail.com> wrote:
> just got back to the list after computer overhaul.
> i was looking for info on
> putting an 14 inch aux fan in front of the radiator
> for helping out on these
> hot days here in las vegas when i watch the temp
> gage blow thru 212 when
> sitting at a three hour stop light. anyone have on
> their machine? problems
> on the fit or setting up the electrics. will
> generator put out enough amps to
> carry it? thanks in advance. healeymanjim 66bj8
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 22:49:44 -0700
Subject: Re: auxiliary fans
First replace the radiator core with a four core dimpled radiator core.
Then install a new water pump and a 140 degree thermostat.
Install a factory "desert fan) 6 bladed or the Texas cooler.
Check the timing and the carbs.
Replace all of the hoses, back flush the radiator.
You do not need a fan in front of the radiator it will block air at freeway
speeds.
Mine now runs cold. In Bakersfield in 116 degrees in traffic it was no where
near 200 F!
Ron Rader
1965 BJ8
Jerry Wall wrote:
> if you are at a long light, then cut off the engine. if you are interested
>in a good primary fan, check out the TEXAS KOOLER on www.ntahc.org.
> James Shope wrote:
> >
> > just got back to the list after computer overhaul. i was looking for info
>on
> > putting an 14 inch aux fan in front of the radiator for helping out on
>these
> > hot days here in las vegas when i watch the temp gage blow thru 212 when
> > sitting at a three hour stop light. anyone have on their machine?
>problems
> > on the fit or setting up the electrics. will generator put out enough
>amps to
> > carry it? thanks in advance. healeymanjim 66bj8
>
> /
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 08:44:58 -0400
Subject: Stuck clutch
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From "Ge Aagten" <gaagten at hetnet.nl>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 15:14:49 +0200
Subject: hubs
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 09:10:46 -0500
Subject: End Float Assistance
Subject: SUN GEAR END FLOAT-.(.008-.014) I finally found a manual with
number examples rather than trying to verbally explain this procedure.
Procedure: Add a washer of known size to determine end float.( I'm
beginning to sound like the damn manuals)
Example from manual:
Additional washer size-----------.125 in.
Gap between flanges--------------.123 in.
End float ---------------------------.002in. (.125-.123=.002)
The needed end float is .008 to .014. The manual says that since .002 is
insufficient end float (too small, too tight, right?) , so a .006 - .012
THICKER washer needs to be added.
Isn't a THICKER washer going to make the end float smaller or tighter , so
therefore you would want a THINNER washer to get wider spacing.
Thats my first problem. My second is this.
With the o/d torn down,(no pump, no accumulator etc., but set up for the
test above) I can physically install a feeler gauge in between the thrust
washers and the sunwheel (through the accumulator hole and no main shaft
installed) and get an end float reading. It is no where near the figure
that I come up with using the above procedure. ( about a .010 in. diff.)
Which one is more reliable?
I guess I did get a little detaily, Sorry.
End Float overload, Help!
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 09:34:05 -0500
Subject: Re: hubs
Some times the rears wear worse than the fronts (they get it coming and
going, acceleration and braking) and you only need to replace the rears.
Lastly, worn splines can be detected by a telltale "clunk" when starting
from a stop. The brakes spin the wheel slightly when you stop, then it
spins back when you start, "clunk".
If you have worn spline on your hubs the back and forth will quickly wear
out the good splines on your new wheels, so if worn you should replace.
Don't even ask how am I so familiar with the worn spline phenomenon.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ge Aagten" <gaagten@hetnet.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 8:14 AM
Subject: hubs
> Bought some new chrome spoke wheels (5.5 72 spokes).
> Do I also have to buy new hubs ???
> Gi aagte BJ8, Holland
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From "Hugh Wolfe" <hugh_wolfe at hotmail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 08:58:10 -0700
Subject: Re: hubs
What about spline wear and inspection?
Worn splines can be dangerous! Worn splines on a wheel will quickly wear the
good splines on the splined hub of the car; worn splines on the hub of the
car will quickly wear the good splines of a new wheel.
On the hubshell of the wheel, the rear-most portion of the splines (about
3/8") will show no wear (as they do not mesh with any splines on the hub of
the car). This allows a very visual comparison between the front-most worn
splines and the rear-most "new" splines. Also, by gently sliding a finger
along the splines of the wheel, you will feel a ridge at the point that the
"new" and the worn splines meet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ge Aagten" <gaagten@hetnet.nl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 6:14 AM
Subject: hubs
> Bought some new chrome spoke wheels (5.5 72 spokes).
> Do I also have to buy new hubs ???
> Gi aagte BJ8, Holland
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 14:29:13 -0500
Subject: Can for Gas Tank Sending Unit
Does anybody know where to get a replacement?
Anybody willing to give up a used metal one?
Suggestions for using an alternate part?
Fabricating a replacement?
Using a carbuerator float?
etc.?
Thanks for your suggestions
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
Memphis, TN
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 15:30:59 -0400
Subject: VE day (Victory Engine) - Engine Runs! - Idle wont sit still
Thanks to many answers given by this list, my engine is running, after fixing
the valve timing issue, head gasket leak, weak spark, etc etc. So, I'm
pleased. :)
Question - when the engine is warmed up, and the idle set at sub 1,000 rpm, it
slowly runs down and dies. If I speed up the idle stops, then it runs faster.
What should it be: 600? Why doesn't it sit still. I'm sure the dwell is set
ok (35mm or 15/1000 inches and 35 degrees), but I don't have a timing light,
so that could be off. The valves are chattering, so they need another setting,
the carbs are new, and I don't *think* there are any vacuum leaks.
Suggestions?
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 15:35:16 -0400
Subject: Exhaust pipe leaks at joints
Where should I clamp the u-joints, at the farthest edge away from the muffler
(above the split), or at the closest edge (below the split). Do these joints
work, or are they just bogus? Are there better clamps? Or should I just torque
away? The bolts are only 1/2 wrench size - 5/16" shafts so they can only take
so much cranking.
Othersome-bay.
Ryan
BJ7
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From carlalony2 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 16:05:34 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ7 Registry Help
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From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 16:12:13 -0400
Subject: The Rite of Spring!
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8 (still lookin' for another BJ8)
AI2Q .-.-.
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 13:46:11 -0700
Subject: Re: End Float Assistance
Your example may be a specific illustration in the manual from which it
came. I'm looking at an original manual - section G, overdrive, which
simply says to use an adjusting washer of 'greater or lesser thickness as
required', after the calculation is made.
Having said that, I usually use a feeler gauge as you describe (it can be
done with the mainshaft, or a dummy in place just to be sure everything is
properly located). It is important to be sure that the parts are fully
seated to get an accurate measurement - brake ring to both front and rear
cases. I simply find it easier that way. I usually shoot for a washer size
that gives me about 10 thou.
I would bet that the feeler gauge method will be slightly more accurate -
the gap measurement around the perimeter of the cases probably varies a bit
in places, so exactly where do you measure?
Aint it fun!
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 7:10 AM
Subject: End Float Assistance
This area drives me nuts. Need some help from you number guys. I'll try not
to get too detaily here.
Subject: SUN GEAR END FLOAT-.(.008-.014) I finally found a manual with
number examples rather than trying to verbally explain this procedure.
Procedure: Add a washer of known size to determine end float.( I'm
beginning to sound like the damn manuals)
Example from manual:
Additional washer size-----------.125 in.
Gap between flanges--------------.123 in.
End float ---------------------------.002in. (.125-.123=.002)
The needed end float is .008 to .014. The manual says that since .002 is
insufficient end float (too small, too tight, right?) , so a .006 - .012
THICKER washer needs to be added.
Isn't a THICKER washer going to make the end float smaller or tighter , so
therefore you would want a THINNER washer to get wider spacing.
Thats my first problem. My second is this.
With the o/d torn down,(no pump, no accumulator etc., but set up for the
test above) I can physically install a feeler gauge in between the thrust
washers and the sunwheel (through the accumulator hole and no main shaft
installed) and get an end float reading. It is no where near the figure
that I come up with using the above procedure. ( about a .010 in. diff.)
Which one is more reliable?
I guess I did get a little detaily, Sorry.
End Float overload, Help!
Mark,
58-MGA
60-MGA
76-MGB
74.5-MGBGT
60-BT7
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 16:55:51 -0400
Subject: Re: The Rite of Spring!
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 15:03:49 -0700
Subject: wanted dead or alive
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 17:29:06 -0500
Subject: Re: VE day (Victory Engine) - Engine Runs! - Idle wont sit
I would start there. Congrats on getting it running!
Chris
BJ8
> List:
>
> Thanks to many answers given by this list, my engine is running, after
fixing
> the valve timing issue, head gasket leak, weak spark, etc etc. So, I'm
> pleased. :)
>
> Question - when the engine is warmed up, and the idle set at sub 1,000
rpm, it
> slowly runs down and dies. If I speed up the idle stops, then it runs
faster.
> What should it be: 600? Why doesn't it sit still. I'm sure the dwell is
set
> ok (35mm or 15/1000 inches and 35 degrees), but I don't have a timing
light,
> so that could be off. The valves are chattering, so they need another
setting,
> the carbs are new, and I don't *think* there are any vacuum leaks.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Ryan
> BJ7
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From Alex Hope <AHope at jaques.com.au>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 08:53:00 +1000
Subject: RE: Shock absorber fluid
There are a number of viscosities available. From memory, I use the 30
weight one.
Alex Hope
-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Wescoe [mailto:fredwescoe@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, 11 April 2003 10:53 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Shock absorber fluid
Can anyone tell me what type of fluid I should use to top off the shocks in
my
BJ7?
Do I have to buy a fluid from Moss (they won't tell me what it is) or is
there
an acceptable fluid that can be bought locally (Autozone, NAPA etc)?
How much fluid do I need to drain and refill all 4 shocks?
Fred
"63BJ7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 18:28:11 -0500
Subject: Re: The Rite of Spring!
I was all worried about mucking everything up, turns out it was all adjusted
pretty good, I mucked it up trying to fine tune, then spent a couple of
hours trying to get it back. Anyway it is now good, went for a spin,
steering is tight and not leaking so far, and I don't drive down the road
with fear of the kingpins shattering.
Oh yes the two six volts batteries replaced with a 12 volt, best 20 minutes
I have spent on the car.
All worth it once I took a drive in the sun.
Happy Healying
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 17:54:04 -0600
Subject: Chris Masucci Idle problem
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 19:22:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Chris Masucci Idle problem
From: "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe@rushmore.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 6:54 PM
Subject: Chris Masucci Idle problem
> Just an addition to your many helpful hints and support, your engine will
> never idle right without making sure your valves have the correct
clearance.
> Especially tight or never totally closing valves. Use the "magic 13
method".
> 13 minus whatever valve is totally open = adjust that one. In other words,
for
> example, when # 2 valve is all the way down or open, 13 - 2 = adjust # 11.
# 1
> valve being the " front " of engine, OK? This method works on in line
motors,
> not v-8's or v-6's. Magic 9 is for 4 cylinders! Also when you are on the
road
> and you put in a set of new points, A matchbook cover is close to .015.
ALL
> MOTORS rule of thumb= Turn the distributor until fastest idle, retard or
back
> off 100 RPM'S and lock it down. IT WORKS! Even with hotter cams! Should
you
> decide to accept this, destroy this message in 5 minutes!
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 17:31:57 -0700
Subject: XJ6 C for sale
he has over $17,000 in receipts plus his cost of the car.
the work was done over the last few years in local shops.
he bought it to keep but he is out of space.
BRG with tan interior. everything works.
someone is going to get a bargain!
you may forward this link to other forums.
make an offer!!!!
Ron Rader
Pictures:
http://www.klabin.com/klabin/Members/jahmenaw/Ron%20WebPage/main/document_view
you can click on the pictures to enlarge.
please contact him directly. at the address below.
Patrick Stanton
pms5642@yahoo.com
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 18:10:33 -0700
Subject: RE: Chris Masucci Idle problem
> -----Original Message-----
>
> How the heck did my name end up in the title? Doesn't anyone
> read the whole
> post anymore? I am not having problems with my engine...it has not been
> started in 18 years!! Soon though.
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 22:16:34 -0700
Subject: rally calculator
Does anyone have a Brantz International 2 "S" Pro rally calculator?
I would like some feedback on its use.
Ron Rader
1967 E FHC
1965 BJ8
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 01:15:20 -0400
Subject: Engine Run on.. what is cause?
Was this caused by too advanced a distributor? The engine was well warmed up
but not too hot.
Ryan
BJ7
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 23:08:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: VE day (Victory Engine) - Engine Runs! - Idle wont sit
Did you rebuild your distributor? After rebuilding my
engine, carbs, starter, etc. I neglected to rebuild my
distributor (since it was clean and worked well so I
thought) and instead restarted the engine and
experienced the same issues. Since I installed a
hotter cam, I attributed most of the rough running to
the cam and the lighter flywheel.
Chris Dimmock convinced me to send my distributor to
Australia, where Barry (the dizzy god) matched the
advance curve to the new cam and rebuilt rest of the
mechanics. What a huge difference it made. The
engine will settle down at any chosen RPM with the air
bypass screws. The timing does not move at all and
best of all the car is remarkably smoother throughout
the entire RPM range.
If you decide to go down this path. I can forward you
all the technical data that Barry sent (6 pages of
hand written graphs and adjustment procedures) and his
contact information. You can tell that I was
impressed - I have a new found respect for the
function of a dizzy...
Dean BN7
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 08:47:48 EDT
Subject: Healey found in Iraq
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 09:10:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey found in Iraq
> I saw this morning on TV that they discovered a group of classic cars in
> Baghdad. Apparently the prize car in the collection is an Austin-Healey. No
> other info at this time.
> Rudy Streng
> Lenoir, NC
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 20:47:57 -0700
Subject: distributor for bj8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:02:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine woes
Rick
San Diego
where most of the machine shops I would have used are gone. Even British
Heritage Motorsports. Motorworks are good, but damn expensive...I may have to
go there...
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 12:25:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: stripped zerk fitting hole
Thanks in advance,
Joe Mulqueen
__________________________________________________
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 12:27:18 -0700
Subject: April 2003 Healey Happenings
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of April_2003.pdf]
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 17:12:55 -0500
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
I had to grin when I read this next part. Coming from the snow belt
area(IN.) that would almost be a pleasant environment. But its 80 deg.
today but was below freezing a week ago. What a strange year.
Mark
>but need to get on it before it gets too hot to
> work in my garage.
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 17:19:35 -0500
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 20:24:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Chris Masucci Idle problem
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson@earthlink.net>
To: "To Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 8:10 PM
Subject: RE: Chris Masucci Idle problem
> I'd call 18 years a problem ;~)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 18:39:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: stripped zerk fitting hole
--- Rick <WebmasterRick@attbi.com> wrote:
> <<Anyone know a good method to repair a stripped
> zerk
> (grease) fitting hole? >>
>
> er, WHERE Joe??
>
> Enquiring minds NEED to know because it "depends"!
>
> Rick
__________________________________________________
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 23:56:40 EDT
Subject: Re: stripped zerk fitting hole
<<
Anyone know a good method to repair a stripped zerk
(grease) fitting hole? Do people helicoil them or
find an "oversize" fitting?
The orig fitting was 1/4-28.
Other than that size, the only other common automotive
size is 6mm (slightly smaller).
>>
There is a tool available that fits onto your grease gun , there is a point
on the other end that will fit into a small hole allowing you to grease that
joint on your car . Check your phone book under ,GREASE EQUIPMENT .
...Norman Nock
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 23:35:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: sound dampening under heatshields?
__________________________________________________
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:59:33 -0400
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
Aside from this thread, I've been thinking about Pertronix Ignitor. Went to
their website this AM and browsed their catalog for an "Ignitor" for a BJ8.
Did not see anything for other than 100-4. Is a BJ8 unlisted? Also, most of
their products seem to be for neg ground. Does this mean that I am going to
have to change polarity before going to Pertronix?
Bob Johnson
BJ8
> Hi Jim,
> You may want to try the pertronics ignition for your dist. It
> allows for some play in the dist. bushings. The weak springs is another
> story.
> I would try the pertronics first( easy install) and see what that
> does. If nothing changes then move to springs or maybe just
> disassembling,clean, and lube.
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:04:22 -0400
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
Bob Johnson
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
> Hmmm,
>
> Aside from this thread, I've been thinking about Pertronix Ignitor. Went
to
> their website this AM and browsed their catalog for an "Ignitor" for a
BJ8.
> Did not see anything for other than 100-4. Is a BJ8 unlisted? Also, most
of
> their products seem to be for neg ground. Does this mean that I am going
to
> have to change polarity before going to Pertronix?
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 08:33:23 -0700
Subject: not healey but MGB
Fred
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From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:52:54 -0500
Subject: distributor for bj8
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
> Went to
>their website this AM and browsed their catalog for an "Ignitor" for a BJ8.
>Did not see anything for other than 100-4. Is a BJ8 unlisted? Also, most of
>their products seem to be for neg ground. Does this mean that I am going to
>have to change polarity before going to Pertronix?
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From Jim Wood <jwood_kc at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:32:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Trunk Seal - BJ8
Thanks in advance
Jim Wood
'67 BJ8
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:32:11 -0700
Subject: Healey sighting
Is this a car that belongs to someone on the list?
Frank
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From Richard Gordon <richardngordon at comcast.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:58:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal - BJ8
Richard
On Tuesday, April 15, 2003, at 10:32 AM, Jim Wood wrote:
> Perhaps a stupid question, but is the rubber seal for
> the trunk (boot) on a BJ8 suppose to be glued to the
> boot lid or to the shroud? Looking at various e-bay
> adds, I see it done both ways
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From Drtrite at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 13:25:44 EDT
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
<< All Pertronix Ignitor units require negative ground
ignition systems. >>
They do have a pos ground unit. Surprise, surprise! They cost more than the
neg ground unit.
Don
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 14:02:22 EDT
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
Simon.
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:18:01 -0600
Subject: Re: Trunk Seal - BJ8
It is supposed to be glued to the boot lid. I too, have seen a few that
are glued to the shroud. A previous owner had glued it to the shroud on
my car. It was a lot of work to remove the adhesive from the shroud
without damaging the paint. I guess the confusion arises because almost
all other cars put it on the shroud. The Healey seems to be one of the
few exceptions. I have seen pictures of some very nicely restored
Healeys with the seal installed wrong.
Dave Russell
BN2
Jim Wood wrote:
> Perhaps a stupid question, but is the rubber seal for
> the trunk (boot) on a BJ8 suppose to be glued to the
> boot lid or to the shroud? Looking at various e-bay
> adds, I see it done both ways
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jim Wood
> '67 BJ8
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:19:06 -0700
Subject: Healey in Iraq
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From "Neil Trelenberg" <neilberg at telus.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:22:10 -0700
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
http://atlantaimported.com/Pertronix%20Ignitor%20Catalog%20List.asp
----- Original Message -----
From: <Drtrite@aol.com>
To: <rjh.co@worldnet.att.net>; <robert.w.johnson@earthlink.net>;
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: distributor for bj8
> In a message dated 4/15/03 11:20:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
> rjh.co@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
> << All Pertronix Ignitor units require negative ground
> ignition systems. >>
>
> They do have a pos ground unit. Surprise, surprise! They cost more than
the
> neg ground unit.
>
> Don
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 15:19:56 -0500
Subject: 53 Healey 100-4 Best offer by end of month
This car was driven to a restoration shop in 1983. The car is complete but
they removed the engine, transmission, front suspension and brakes. Carbs
and head were removed and all parts have been stored on shelves since 83.
Hood for car is missing, but I have a 100 hood that I am including. So, I
would say The car is complete. Frame appears solid with surface rust.
Texas Car currently located in Dallas, TX.
I have pics available to interested parties--but, as I am rather busy trying
to get moved out now, please only request pics if you are seriously
interested.
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From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 18:04:44 -0500
Subject: Healey in Iraq
Now they are trying to melt it down so they can determine if the metal that
was used to make it was produced in Gary, Indiana by US Steel, or if it is a
recycled Fiat.
By the way, we still shouldn't be drinking Dom Perignon. (As if I could
afford it!)
(Sorry, I know it isn't Friday, just couldn't resist)
Don
BN7 (sold!)
"Life is not measured by the breaths we take but by the things that take our
breath away"
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From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 19:52:36 -0400
Subject: Alan, Blue One Hundred Help!
I am trying to reach "Alan", know on the list as "Blue One Hundred".
I posted last night and with no response, this is a repeat.
I have been unable to get an email through to Alan. He can email me but for
some reason, he does not get my replies.
Alan has an item he is trying to sell and I am trying to buy it. He wants an
immediate answer and the answer is yes, I want it!
Would someone on the list please email Alan with my home number, 606-561-9600
and ask him to call me collect. Or, if you know Alan, please call him with
this information! I will be home this evening as well as all day Wednesday
and Thursday.
I thank all of you again for your help in this hunt!
Fred
63 BJ7
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 08:19:18 -0500
Subject: BN1 Boot Hinge Pins
Mark
Nashville
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From "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear at garverengineers.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 09:19:04 -0500
Subject: RE: Improving Brakes
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Rogers [mailto:jarplanner@cox.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 10:15 PM
To: Spridget Group
Subject: Re: Improving Brakes
Jim
One brake upgrade that I have heard of (not personal experience) is a
conversion to MGB calibers & Spitfire rotors. Check the tech archives at
MiniMania (www.minimania.com) - they have a installation instructions &
drawings for this conversion. Of course this involves purchasing MM's
billet adapter. This may be something you can build yourself?
The guys into racing Spridgets should have more specific info since, as
I understand, the MGB/Spitfire brake conversion is used in racing.
Anybody else?
Jim Rogers
San Juan Capistrano, CA
James Gruber wrote:
>
> Has anyone in the know much more so than I checked out this web
linkhttp://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.html that describes
converting Toyota 4 Piston Front Calipers to work on a TR3/4/6. I'm curious if
this is something that would work on our Spridgets. In our quest for making
these cars faster than the manufacturer originally intended, we haven't done
much that I can see to improve a Spridgets less than stellar braking
performance. Yes I've got new pads, new shoes, rotors and drums both turned,
new MC, new wheel Cylinders, and new hoses. All is as good as it can be but I
thinks there's more available here that can be done to prevent a fast Spridget
from ending up in the trunk of the minivan in front of us that jams on the
brakes as the soccer mom isn't paying attention because she's busy arguing
with her kids. How about a discussion on improving braking performance for
everyday street driving. Any good web site links to look at. Thanks in advance
for the help.
>
> Jim Gruber
> Bugsy '68 Sprite (future Bugeye in disguise)
> Dayton, OH
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat]
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FROM viruslist.com:
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 10:27:05 -0400
Subject: Re: VIRUS ALERT!
04/30/2002
New Virus Hoax Terrorizes Users
JDBGMGR.EXE - is NOT a virus, but rather a standard Windows Utility
Kaspersky Labs reports on the recent rumors regarding a new and
dangerous virus that is purportedly carried in the file JDBGMGR.EXE - a
Windows operating system file. At this time the Kaspersky Labs technical
support service is receiving numerous calls regarding this supposed
virus from users located in many different countries.
Actually, JDBGMGR.EXE is a standard utility (used to debug Java
applications) included in most versions of Windows operating systems,
including Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows NT Windows ME, Windows 2000
and Windows XP. Deleting or modifying this program may lead to
functional changes in the operating system and in some instances have
negative after-effects.
The file JDBGMGR.EXE itself is not a virus, but as with any exe-file it
can be infected. The infamous virus Magistr is known for its "interest"
in this program and often infects it. Such is the case behind the
spreading of this virus hoax - the initiator of this virus hoax detected
Magistr on his computer and concluded that the infected file JDBGMGR.EXE
is the actual virus and he rushed to inform all his friends about it.
Previously, in this very way a rumor regarding the standard Windows
utility SULFNBK.EXE was spread.
Kaspersky Labs recommends users refrain from further spreading unfounded
virus rumors and to in turn inform colleagues and friends that this
actually a "non-existent" or "hoax" virus.
A guide that will help you detect virus hoaxes can be found at:
http://www.kaspersky.com/news.asp?tnews=0&nview=1&id=118&page=4
More detailed information about virus hoaxes can be found in the
Kaspersky Labs virus encyclopedia at:
http://www.viruslist.com/eng/viruslist.html?id=3905
Source:
Anti-Virus Software Developer - Kaspersky Labs Int.
Martin Kern wrote:
> Unfortunately, one of our members inadvertently sent me a virus which
> I did find and destroy by following the following directions:
>
> Sorry, everybody! A virus has been passed on to me by a contact. My
> address book was infected. Since you are in my book, there is a good
> chance you have been infected too. The virus (called jdbgmgr.exe) is
> not detected by Norton or McAfee anti-virus system. The virus sits
> quietly for 14 days before damaging the system. It is automatically
> transmitted by the address book - whether or not you sent e-mails to
> your contacts! Here's how to check for the virus and how to get rid of
> it:
>
> 1)Go to Start, Find or Search option
> 2)In the file folder option, type the name jdbgmgr.exe
> 3)Be sure you search your C: drive and all subfolders and any other
> drives you may have.
> 4)Click "find now"
> 5)The virus has a Teddy Bear icon with the name jdbgmgr.exe DO NOT
> OPEN IT!!!!!
> 6)Go to Edit (on menu bar), choose "select all" to highlight the file
> without opening it.
> 7)Now go to File (on me! nu bar) and select delete. It will then go
> into the recycle bin.
> If you find the virus, you must contact all the people in your address
> book so they can eradicate it in their own address books.
>
> To do this:
> a)Open a new e-mail message
> b)Click the icon of the address book next to the "to"
> c)Highlight every name and ad to "BCC"
> d)Copy this message and paste into e-mail
> Again, I am so sorry for the inconvenience. Please forward this to
> everybody in your address book!!!
>
> Added Note from me: After finding and deleting this file, go to the
> wastebasket and empty it. If you don't do this, the virus may still
> activate.
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From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 07:36:53 -0700
Subject: Tonneau Support Rail
Can anyone tell me, for sure, whether a BN7 is supposed to have a Tonneau
Support Rail like a BT7 has? There is no mention of it in the Anderson/Moment
book for either the BN7 OR the BT7. Clausager's book says it should, but
there are some other mistakes in that book. I bought a brand new BN7 in 1960,
and have no memory of the support rail in it. I think the stowed top
supported the tonneau cover.
TIA
John Snyder
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 11:05:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Tonneau Support Rail
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 11:01:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Improving Brakes
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brashear, Jack, N" <JNBrashear@garverengineers.com>
To: "Jim Rogers" <jarplanner@cox.net>; "Spridget Group"
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Cc: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 10:19 AM
Subject: RE: Improving Brakes
> Hi All, I'm big on brake improvements. I have the Spitfire/MGB front
> conversion on my Mk2 Sprite and I have Cadillac rear disks on my big
Healey.
> The disks have a mechanical Ebrake that activates the pads via a short
lever
> protruding from the rear of the caliper. This is all hooked up to my
stock
> Ebrake lever. Pull this baby up four notches and it locks the rears.
Just
> FYI on the recent brake threads on these lists.
> Jack
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 11:06:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Tonneau Support Rail
Jim
BN6, BN7, etc.
PS, bet you wish you still had your original bought-brand-new BN7.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Snyder" <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 10:36 AM
Subject: Tonneau Support Rail
> Hello List,
>
> Can anyone tell me, for sure, whether a BN7 is supposed to have a Tonneau
> Support Rail like a BT7 has? There is no mention of it in the
Anderson/Moment
> book for either the BN7 OR the BT7. Clausager's book says it should, but
> there are some other mistakes in that book. I bought a brand new BN7 in
1960,
> and have no memory of the support rail in it. I think the stowed top
> supported the tonneau cover.
>
> TIA
>
> John Snyder
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James Sailer" <heliskier at direcway.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 09:52:21 -0600
Subject: Boot Rubber Seal
As we are on the subject of the boot rubber seal, I recall hearing that
various vendor's products are not necessarily the correct thickness. Does
anyone recall who offers the best product. I am nearing that stage rapidly.
Thanks.
jim Sailer
66 BJ8.. coming along
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 10:20:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Subject: Re: Improving Brakes
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Redondo Beach, CA
__________________________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
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From N0040 <N0040 at aol.com>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 14:08:52 -0500
Subject: Provided in the foregoing sentence, you are
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From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at sbcglobal.net>
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
To: Healey list
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 13:27:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Provided in the foregoing sentence, you are
-Roland
On Wed, 16 Apr 2003 14:08:52 -0500, N0040 is represented to have
written:
:
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From "Rich C" <richchrysler at quickclic.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 16:26:30 -0400
Subject: BN1 Boot Hinge Pins
> I am in the process of trying to save the original boot hinges on my BN1.
> In a former attempt to repair them it looks like someone threaded the
> rearmost piece and has inserted cut off #10 machine screws as the hinge
> pins, one from each side. Can someone tell me what was originally used as
a
> pin. It looks like I might be able to drill it out and use a roll pin,
any
> suggestions appreciated.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
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From "R. Cobb" <rcobb at earthlink.net>
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 15:44:27 -0500
Subject: master brake cyl query
I have a question about the rebuild of my BJ8 master brake cylinder.
Having rebuilt the master brake cylinder and upon reassembly, there is
no possible travel of the pushrod. It appears that when the plunger is
seated within the master cylinder body bore and the return spring is
compressed sufficiently to permit engaging the circlip, the whole
assemble is fully compressed and no stroking movement of the pushrod is
possible.
I have had the unit out of the car twice and done relevant measurements,
etc., but am
apparently overlooking something (probably simple).
Anyone have ideas?
Thanks.
R. Cobb
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 17:03:32 EDT
Subject: BN7 Tonneau Bar
Unlike the folding softop, the tonneau cover that came with the BN7 does not
have a metal bar that goes under the clips on the rear deck--just a vinyl
strap on each sidew which allows the cover to flap around at speed. Should
there be one?
Best--Michael
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From alan at andysnet.net
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 16:31:54 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: master brake cyl query
>
> I have a question about the rebuild of my BJ8 master brake cylinder.
>
> Having rebuilt the master brake cylinder and upon reassembly, there is
> no possible travel of the pushrod. It appears that when the plunger is
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From alan at andysnet.net
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 16:32:57 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: master brake cyl query
>
> I have a question about the rebuild of my BJ8 master brake cylinder.
>
> Having rebuilt the master brake cylinder and upon reassembly, there is
> no possible travel of the pushrod. It appears that when the plunger is
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From alan at andysnet.net
From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: "Big Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 16:34:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: master brake cyl query
>
> I have a question about the rebuild of my BJ8 master brake cylinder.
>
> Having rebuilt the master brake cylinder and upon reassembly, there is
> no possible travel of the pushrod. It appears that when the plunger is
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 17:56:11 -0400
Subject: Re: BN7 Tonneau Bar
| NO! Adds to the cachet.
|
| John Sims, BN6
| Aberdeen, NJ
|
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
| To: <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
| <healeys@autox.te.am.net>
| Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 5:03 PM
| Subject: BN7 Tonneau Bar
|
|
| | As long as we're on this--
| |
| | Unlike the folding softop, the tonneau cover that came with the BN7 does
| not
| | have a metal bar that goes under the clips on the rear deck--just a
vinyl
| | strap on each sidew which allows the cover to flap around at speed.
| Should
| | there be one?
| |
| | Best--Michael
| |
|
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 18:14:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Fw: BN7 Tonneau Bar
<< just a
vinyl
| | strap on each sidew which allows the cover to flap around at speed. >>
I installed my clips on the top of the toneau cover and left the strips
folded inside so the cover doesn't flop around like that.
Rick
San Diego
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 19:05:29 EDT
Subject: Re: The '55
BTW, when asked how one might accumulate great wealth, J. Paul Getty gave
three suggestions:
1. Start work early every day
2. Work late every day
3. Find Oil (He added that if you do #3, numbers 1 and 2 are optional!)
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 18:22:17 -0600
Subject: Re: master brake cyl query
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
"R. Cobb" wrote:
> I have just today subscribed to this site and although tried to submit
> this question earlier in the week a search of the archives doesn't show
> my query.
>
> I have a question about the rebuild of my BJ8 master brake cylinder.
>
> Having rebuilt the master brake cylinder and upon reassembly, there is
> no possible travel of the pushrod. It appears that when the plunger is
> seated within the master cylinder body bore and the return spring is
> compressed sufficiently to permit engaging the circlip, the whole
> assemble is fully compressed and no stroking movement of the pushrod is
> possible.
>
> I have had the unit out of the car twice and done relevant measurements,
> etc., but am
> apparently overlooking something (probably simple).
>
> Anyone have ideas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> R. Cobb
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 18:35:36 -0700
Subject: Re: The '55
That's easy ... just look under your Healey.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
> Maybe Charley has struck it rich--he does live in Pennsylvania, where
> Pennzoil is from, right?
>
> BTW, when asked how one might accumulate great wealth, J. Paul Getty gave
> three suggestions:
>
> 1. Start work early every day
> 2. Work late every day
> 3. Find Oil (He added that if you do #3, numbers 1 and 2 are optional!)
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 00:57:15 EDT
Subject: Re: master brake cyl query
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 18:48:31 -0500
Subject: Re: BN7 Tonneau Bar
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 18:01:57 -0400
Subject: test
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 22:31:11 -0700
Subject: Not Healey but cute
BIG BROTHER IS GOING TO BE WATCHING US NOW.
The FBI is fixing to implement a way to watch every keystroke we make on
our computers. They say we will not notice this running in the background.
Click on link or paste the web address above to get a preview on how this is
going to run on our computers.
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From "Mrs M Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 06:26:42 +0100
Subject: BT7 Register
I am the Register Secretary for all 100/6 & 3000 Models for Austin Healey Club
in the UK & have Members trying to trace history
of their cars whilst in the USA
Mell Ward
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From "Kenny Johnson" <theswed at hotmail.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 23:45:06 -0700
Subject: Moss and Pertonix
Kenny
61 BT-7
_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 07:11:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss and Pertonix
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 1:45 AM
Subject: Moss and Pertonix
> Has anyone on the list had problems ordering a Pertronix Ignitor Kit for a
> "positive" ground Healey (item #222-570) from Moss. I've attempted to
order
> it three times and each time they have sent me the negitive ground unit.
> Each box sent had Moss #222-570, however, after checking the Pertronix
> number (with Pertronix) I discovered the boxes were mislabeled at Moss. I
> attempted to notify the guys at Moss but they treated me like I was an
> idiot. It's been 2 1/2 months of sending units back and forth and I am
> still without an electronic ignition.
>
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT-7
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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From "Brad Weldon 55BN1" <healey at bradw.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 08:13:26 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 Register
On the Austin-Healey Club USA Registries page
http://www.healey.org/other-registries.shtml there is a listing of many
registries for the various AH marques.
I find this one for "For owners of all 3000 ("Mark I") models, series BN7
and BT7."
3000 REGISTRY
Bill Naretta
404 Peach Tree Circle
Loves Park IL 61111
MNaretta@aol.com
(815) 282-5003
Good Luck!
Brad Weldon
55 BN1
Webmaster, Austin Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mrs M Ward" <russward@lineone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 10:26 PM
Subject: BT7 Register
> I am looking for the BT7 Mk1 & 2 Register Secretary in the USA
> Anyone have an e-mail address please
>
> I am the Register Secretary for all 100/6 & 3000 Models for Austin Healey
Club
> in the UK & have Members trying to trace history
> of their cars whilst in the USA
>
> Mell Ward
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From Earl Kagna <kags at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 09:05:13 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 Register
Bill Bolton has done the tri-carb registry in North America for many years -
I believe that he is the originator of the registry. His primary interest
started out to be the two-seaters, but has expanded to include all MKII BN
and BT7's.
He is in Oregon, and his e-mail address is (naturally!) tricarb@aol.com
Regards from Canada,
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B. C. Canada
'62 BT7 tri-carb
'67 BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mrs M Ward" <russward@lineone.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 10:26 PM
Subject: BT7 Register
I am looking for the BT7 Mk1 & 2 Register Secretary in the USA
Anyone have an e-mail address please
I am the Register Secretary for all 100/6 & 3000 Models for Austin Healey
Club
in the UK & have Members trying to trace history
of their cars whilst in the USA
Mell Ward
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from the rear springs to soften the rear suspension
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 09:15:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: removing a leaf from rear springs
__________________________________________________
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 11:56:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Moss and Pertonix
"Kenny, etal:
<<I attempted to notify the guys at Moss but they treated me like I was an
idiot. >>
On seeing that (and the rest of post) I copied and sent to Kelvin Dodd (not on
Healey Lisy) at Moss as I also HATE to get wrong or mis-marked items in for MY
customers.
His reply is as follows:
*********************************************
"I love ones like this.
We have sold 92 #222-570 Pertronix kits since the item was created by
Pertronix.
None of them have been sent to either of the two customer numbers we have
for Kenny Johnson.
Something is definitely not right, and it's no wonder the guys at Moss are
wondering what is going on.
It is quite possible the units on the shelf may have a problem, it's not the
first time. But we are usually pretty good at catching it if it is either
our mistake, or the units are misboxed by Pertronix. If this guy is having
problems, it is more likely due to complications because he didn't buy the
unit from us, or bought some other number.
Feel free to post this if you wish. Obviously if we have an inventory
problem we want to fix it, not play make the customer look stupid.
all the best
Kelvin."
************************************
Regards.............
Ed"
Thanks.................
Rick
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From "Mrs M Ward" <russward at lineone.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 18:23:37 +0100
Subject: thank you BT7 Register
Mell Ward
106, 3000 Register Sec Austing Healey Club UK
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 15:48:42 EDT
Subject: Disappointed...again
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From tom mitchell <3000mk3 at bighealey.org>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 16:11:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
I'll bet many of us could go out to their garages and find many examples
like this.
Unfortunately it happens, hopefully not too time many times.
I'd be willing to bet many organization count on this attitude.
I'm assuming you were not able to see a picture before you ordered it.
____________ _____________
(_______ \_______________/ ______ )
(_____ Tom Mitchell ____)
(SouthEast Michigan Austin Healey Club)
(mailto:tommitchell@bighealey.org )
..At 03:48 PM 4/18/2003 -0400, GMGoodman@aol.com wrote:
>I ordered a chrome gas cap from BV for the bugeye...mine was painted by PO.
>All excited to get the package.....till I open it...it isn't really a
>repro....it's flat in shape...chrome is OK....but it's FLAT...not dome
>shape....did I mention it's FLAT. Was $10 ... figures...but why do they
>sell items that are not at least look alikes. I guess its because dummies
>like me will just say oh well 10 bucks...does anyone have or can you direct
>me to a good NOS gas cap .
>Thanks
>Jerry Goodman
>59 B-eye
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From "Horn, Granville" <GHorn at ci.kent.wa.us>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:17:50 -0700
Subject: Disappointed...again
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 16:32:25 -0400
Subject: For sale cheap.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 14:53:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
I thought that the bug eye gas caps were supposed to
be painted body color. Most owners replaced them with
chrome. I did when I had one 20 years ago. Not sure
what you are trying to accomplish with your car, but
the PO may have had it correct.
Something to look into :)
Dean BN7
--- GMGoodman@aol.com wrote:
> I ordered a chrome gas cap from BV for the
> bugeye...mine was painted by PO.
>
__________________________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
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From John Miller <healeys at n4vu.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 18:40:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
Hmmm -- that was my recollection, as well, but hesitated to speak up because I
sold my bugeye in '65, and you know how it is with memory...
--
John Miller
It is against the law for a monster to enter the corporate limits of
Urbana, Illinois.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 19:02:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
<< it isn't really a
repro....it's flat in shape...chrome is OK....but it's FLAT...not dome
shape. >>
I'm no Sprite expert. And this is the Big Healey list...but weren't they flat
originally? Isn't that correct for that car?
Rick
San Diego
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 19:02:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
<< In a message dated 4/18/03 12:57:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GMGoodman@aol.com writes:
<< I ordered a chrome gas cap from BV for the bugeye...mine was painted by
PO...does anyone have or can you direct me to a good NOS gas cap . >>
Jerry,
Just to be clear, the original gas caps were not chromed but painted body
color, so if you are looking for an NOS one, it will not be chrome plated.
Maybe that PO who painted it was the factory.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) - with a painted gas cap >>
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 19:12:51 EDT
Subject: BT7 rear cockpit moulding
Price
60BT7
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 18:23:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
John Miller wrote:
>On Friday, April 18, 2003 17:53, Dean Caccavo wrote:
>
>
>>I thought that the bug eye gas caps were supposed to
>>be painted body color. Most owners replaced them with
>>chrome. I did when I had one 20 years ago. Not sure
>>what you are trying to accomplish with your car, but
>>the PO may have had it correct.
>>
>>
>
>Hmmm -- that was my recollection, as well, but hesitated to speak up because I
>sold my bugeye in '65, and you know how it is with memory...
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 19:42:45 EDT
Subject: Re: NOT SO Disappointed...
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From "Nick Batchelor" <Nixstar1 at hotmail.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 16:53:39 -0700
Subject: Soft top for BJ8
Thanks for your input..
Nick
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 20:14:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Disappointed...again
"<< in the brit. car market i see a serious lack of unity in the
owners and a common voice that they report to that has enough clout to
demand better parts or replicas>>
The answer is EASY!! Although VERY unfortunate.
Spridget AND MGB folks are TOOOOOOO da*ned cheap to DEMAND
better and correct parts (as a 99% rule).
Regards............
Ed"
Geesh, from what I read on his mail I would have to agree. Far too many
folks seem to be more interested in the lowest price around than having a
correct part??
Am I wrong?? Don't think so-:(
Rick
'74 MGB (no name yet)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 21:45:44 -0500
Subject: Re: BT7 rear cockpit moulding
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 21:34:39 -0600
Subject: Re: BT7 rear cockpit moulding
Some careful work with a file & or hacksaw should do the trick.
Dave Russell
Ptuleysr@cs.com wrote:
> I bought that little piece to go between the two rear cockpit mouldings on my
> BT7. Now I'm not sure how it goes on. Does it fit down between the two
> pieces? It doesn't seem to want to overlap them. What is the best way to get
> it to fit? I assume a machine shop. Open to suggestions.
>
> Price
> 60BT7
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From "Robert D. Hughes" <dhugh at tscnet.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 01:18:07 -0700
Subject: Cannonball!
While we're discussing it, how fast has anyone on the list taken a Healey
coast-to-coast?
Robert Hughes
65 BJ8
60 Sprite (with the original painted gas cap)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 06:28:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
ps. if you like cannonball, be sure and rent the old movie, the gumball rally.
Robert D. Hughes wrote:
>
> I am presently reading Brock Yates' very entertaining "Cannonball!", and I
> note
> that only one Austin Healey was ever entered in the race in the four times
> it was
> run -- and it was a DNF in the 1972 event. Does anyone on the list have any
> information about this one representation of our marque in the great
> "Sea-to-Shining-Sea"
> race? Or, even better, is there a lister out there named Johnson (NFN) or
> McPherson (NFN)
> that would be willing to 'fess up and give us the inside skinny about their
> entry?
>
> While we're discussing it, how fast has anyone on the list taken a Healey
> coast-to-coast?
>
>
> Robert Hughes
> 65 BJ8
> 60 Sprite (with the original painted gas cap)
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 10:59:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
This reminds me of a point which I've not seen discussed - factory quality
control. My BN7 was PERFECT - every inspector in the plant must have seen it,
and the BT7 was sloppy by comparison, panel fit, rattles, everywhere evidence
of being a Friday or Monday car, etc.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 11:08:09 EDT
Subject: Engine numbers
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 09:07:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
"OFFICIALS CATCH GUMBALL DRIVERS. With speeds exceeding 100 mph and at
times passing cars from the shoulder, about 200 contestants in the Gumball
3000 rally - a modern day "Cannonball Run" - raced their Ferraris, Porsches
and BMWs through Solano County on Thursday night.
Solano Highway Patrol Officers arrested three entrants and cited four others
shortly after they left San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel en-route to Miami in
the six day road race.....
The racers will make stops in Las Vegas, Tucson, San Antonio and New
Orleans, before finishing 3,000 miles away in Maimi Beach on Tuesday.....".
The article also noted that the cross-country trek, inspired by the 1970s
Burt Reynolds film "Cannonball Run", costs about $12,000 to enter.
Any takers on the list for next year?
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 09:43:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
Not me, but with every trooper in the country after these guys it might be a
good
time to have a little fun on the other roads.
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
> Don't know what prompted this thread and it may be coincidental that my
> local newspaper reported the following this morning:
>
> "OFFICIALS CATCH GUMBALL DRIVERS. With speeds exceeding 100 mph and at
> times passing cars from the shoulder, about 200 contestants in the Gumball
> 3000 rally - a modern day "Cannonball Run" - raced their Ferraris, Porsches
> and BMWs through Solano County on Thursday night.
>
> Solano Highway Patrol Officers arrested three entrants and cited four others
> shortly after they left San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel en-route to Miami in
> the six day road race.....
>
> The racers will make stops in Las Vegas, Tucson, San Antonio and New
> Orleans, before finishing 3,000 miles away in Maimi Beach on Tuesday.....".
>
> The article also noted that the cross-country trek, inspired by the 1970s
> Burt Reynolds film "Cannonball Run", costs about $12,000 to enter.
>
> Any takers on the list for next year?
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From SMickel950 at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 13:48:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
<A HREF="http://www.gumball3000.com/";>Gumball3000</A>
In a message dated 4/19/03 9:18:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
> Don't know what prompted this thread and it may be coincidental that my
> local newspaper reported the following this morning:
>
> "OFFICIALS CATCH GUMBALL DRIVERS. With speeds exceeding 100 mph and at
> times passing cars from the shoulder, about 200 contestants in the Gumball
> 3000 rally - a modern day "Cannonball Run" - raced their Ferraris, Porsches
> and BMWs through Solano County on Thursday night.
>
> Solano Highway Patrol Officers arrested three entrants and cited four
> others
> shortly after they left San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel en-route to Miami in
> the six day road race.....
>
> The racers will make stops in Las Vegas, Tucson, San Antonio and New
> Orleans, before finishing 3,000 miles away in Maimi Beach on Tuesday.....".
>
> The article also noted that the cross-country trek, inspired by the 1970s
> Burt Reynolds film "Cannonball Run", costs about $12,000 to enter.
>
> Any takers on the list for next year?
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (Richard Feibusch)
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 12:58:13 -0700
Subject: Good Work Enthusiasts on your S.B. 708 Victory!
This just in from the people at Hagerty Insurance about that Senate Bill
that we have all been writing in about. I know that I seem to pester you
folks about this stuff from time to time, but this proves that our united
voice CAN be heard and does some good.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
The California British Car Meets
---------------------------------------------------
From: "Hagerty Insurance News" <news@hagerty.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 11:20:48 -0400
LEGISLATIVE ALERT UPDATE
Congratulations everyone on your hard work and commitment to stopping
Senator Florez from pursuing his repeal in S.B. 708 of the current
emissions exemption for collector vehicles. Following is an article we
thought you would enjoy reading since it reports your tremendous
legislative efforts and victory. Keep up the good fight.
McKeel Hagerty
President, Hagerty Protection Network
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FLOREZ REVERSES ON CLASSIC CAR SMOG RULES
By VIC POLLARD, Californian Sacramento Bureau
SACRAMENTO -- With Jay Leno and the rest of California's classic car buffs
on his case, State Sen. Dean Florez has dropped his proposal to require
smog checks for cars as old as 1958 models. Leno, "The Tonight Show" host
who has a large collection of vintage autos, personally called Florez's
office to lobby against the plan. The lawmaker was also inundated with
letters, e-mails and phone calls from many other members of the highly
organized hobby car community.
One of their tools was a cartoon depicting Florez in his state-leased SUV
chasing classic cars out of California. Florez was forced to back down on
the bill, one in a package of 10 bills aimed at cleaning up the air in the
Central Valley, before it even got its first legislative hearing.
The bill, SB 708, isn't dead, but it has been amended to crack down on cars
that emit visible smoke. Originally, it called for requiring regular smog
checks and repairs for cars up to 45 model years old. If in effect this
year, it would apply to cars made in 1958 or later. That would have
replaced the state's existing exemption for cars older than 30 model years,
which this year is 1973. "Given all the fights we have on all the other air
pollution bills," Florez said, "it wasn't going to help to push that one."
He said classic car fans made a convincing argument that most of the oldest
cars on the road, while they may be some of the worst polluters, aren't
usually driven to and from work daily. "We told the classic car folks that
we're going to continue to talk to them," Florez continued, "but that was
just too much of a detailed type of proposal."
Florez's legislative aide, Michael Rubio, said Leno called after reading a
newspaper article about the smog bills. "He said he wanted to know what
the deal was with (SB) 708," Rubio said. "Several days later, he called
back and said, 'You've got me thinking now.' And I said 'Can I start at the
beginning?'"
He said Leno listened carefully and discussed his thoughts on the smog
problem and the bill at some length, urging Florez to carefully distinguish
between older cars that are driven for basic transportation and those that
are merely exhibited most of the time.
Other problems, he said, are the difficulty of getting repair parts for
older cars and the fact that emission controls were not mandated on cars
until the late 1960s. The same arguments were made by the classic car
community's chief lobbyist, Steve McDonald of the Special Equipment
Marketing Association, a trade group of manufacturers, retailers,
publishers and restorers. "Obviously we're thrilled that the senator has
agreed to modify the legislation and refocus the target on what we believe
is a more effective one, that being smoking vehicles," McDonald said.
So are hobbyists like Jan VanderPool of Bakersfield, who, with his fiancie,
owns three vintage Ford Mustangs."That's definitely a big relief to me," he
said. VanderPool said it took years and a lot of effort to get the rolling
exemption from smog checks for cars that are more than 30 years old enacted
in 1997.
Florez and his staff appeared surprised, if not shellshocked, at the size
and aggressiveness of the lobbying campaign against the smog check
proposal. But it was no surprise to VanderPool, who has been through
similar drills before when legislation was proposed that helped or hurt car
hobbyists. "A lot of us have had to get pretty political," he said. "We've
had to get active and kind of watch our backs."
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 17:04:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Can for Gas Tank Sending Unit
If the sending unit is the same as the one used in a BJ8, then you can get a
Ford item that is identical to the Moss plastic float, but in brass. The Ford
part number is: COAZ-9202-B, and it should be available for about 4 bucks at
your local Ford dealer.
I ordered two consecutive sending units with plastic floats from Moss, and
both of them came to me with cracks in the float (one had a HOLE) where the
end of the float arm wire terminated on the float. I gave up on the Moss
sending units because when I finally got one that worked (i.e., the float
didn't sink), it was too erratic. The rheostat was very sloppily wound.
An alert lister put me on to the Ford brass floats a couple years ago. I have
one of these you can have free, if it'll work for you.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim LeBlanc
To: austin healey list
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 3:29 PM
Subject: Can for Gas Tank Sending Unit
I need the plastic bubble canister for the gas tank sending unit. This
aftermarket part originally came from Moss motors and could be replaced
with
the metal type. Spending $78 for the entire unit seems a bit excessive.
Does anybody know where to get a replacement?
Anybody willing to give up a used metal one?
Suggestions for using an alternate part?
Fabricating a replacement?
Using a carbuerator float?
etc.?
Thanks for your suggestions
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
Memphis, TN
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From GMGoodman at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 17:35:44 EDT
Subject: next problem?????
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 16:41:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Engine numbers
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 20:24:29 -0700
Subject: Re: next problem?????
Can't help you Jerry. But this got me to thinking.
If one were to install a retractable antennae for a radio, would it also
work backwards because of the pos ground? If so, could reversing the leads
correct it?
Just curious. Not ready to install a radio . . . it would muffle the
exhaust too much!
Keith Pennell
> The b-eye was changed to negative ground so time ago...the gas gauge has
been
> working in reverse,,,that is, full is empty, and empty is full...I know
easy
> problem...well I can turn easy, into a head scratcher. I took the gauge
out
> ,reversed the wiring and .....nothing....I have a green on one
post...green
> and brown on other and a black on the center post for the light....so I
> switched it back ..still nothing..???? I am open to ideas...before I
pound
> my head against a the wall
> Thanks Jerry Goodman
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 20:30:34 -0700
Subject: Re: removing a leaf from rear springs
Never heard of this but it could be so. It reminded me of my BN7 when I
first got it on the road after resto. I drove it on a 200 mile round trip
to a show with several other Healeys in convoy. The car rode like a
buckboard and the rear bounced like crazy! I hopped over every expansion
joint in the road and cornering agressively was a no-no!
Upon closer inspection some PO had added an extra leaf at each side. They
were about 50% thicker than the stock leaves too. I removed them and the
car settled down nicely. Why would anyone add more leaves?
Keith Pennell
> Hello,
> I've heard where Big Healey racers "remove a leaf"
> from the rear springs to soften the rear suspension
> and make the car less tail happy. Anyone ever do this
> on a street car? Which leaf is removed?
> Thanks,
> Joe Mulqueen
> '60 BT7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 20:45:50 -0500
Subject: Re: removing a leaf from rear springs
Not that I am advocating it, but ground clearance perhaps?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From joe mulqueen <joemulqueen at yahoo.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 18:53:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: leaf spring overhaul
A few observations along the way:
I'v noted "Bramber" "11B5266" stampings on the
smallest leaf but also a mysterious raised (not
stamped)"P" on this leaf and the others of this
particular spring pack. The other spring pack has the
same part number but is stamped "Berry" with no "P"
anywhere. Also one spring pack had coarse thd bracket
screws and the other had fine thread.
Comments welcome!
Joe Mulqueen
'60 BT7
Redondo Beach, CA
__________________________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 23:36:01 EDT
Subject: Re: leaf spring overhaul
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 00:00:59 EDT
Subject: Re: removing a leaf from rear springs
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 4/19/03 18:51:08, glemon@neb.rr.com writes:
<< Why would anyone add more leaves?
Not that I am advocating it, but ground clearance perhaps?
Greg Lemon
54 BN1 >>
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 21:03:58 -0700
Subject: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
I should mention that my car has been retro-fitted with front disc brakes but I
assume that this will not change the spec. for the bearing distance piece. If
it does, Moss lists the later distance pieces for everything from BN7 onwards -
i.e. the cars with disc brakes.
Any ideas out there?
Neil
..................................
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
North Vancouver, BC
Canada
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 00:15:39 EDT
Subject: Re: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
Healey DOc or Bill Bolton would be good places to start.
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 4/19/03 21:05:46, nimcdonald@shaw.ca writes:
<< Moss does not list (Page 123) a front wheel bearing distance piece for a
BN6 with wire wheels. Does anyone know of an alternative source or a solution
to this problem?
I should mention that my car has been retro-fitted with front disc brakes but
I assume that this will not change the spec. for the bearing distance piece.
If it does, Moss lists the later distance pieces for everything from BN7
onwards - i.e. the cars with disc brakes.
Any ideas out there?
Neil
..................................
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
North Vancouver, BC
Canada >>
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 23:52:37 -0500
Subject: Re: leaf spring overhaul
>From the pages of Classic and Sportscar "Wefco Services, 90 Redland Road,
Bristol BS6 6QZ, Tel. 0117 942 6958"
Say they will do leather leaf spring covers for any car, absolutely no
experience with them, just remember seeing the ad.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 23:03:11 -0600
Subject: Where's Alan
Has anyone heard from Alan (Blue One Hundred) lately? I'm a little
concerned about him with the recent news about the SARS virus in Hong
Kong. Hope he is ok.
Dave Russell
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 07:00:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Where's Alan
Hong Kong has a population of over 7 million. At last report Hong Kong
had a SARS case load of 1,327.
Based upon those numbers the possibility that Alan has contracted SARS
is 0.0001895 / 1 and with a reported fatality rate or less than 5% the
chances that he has succumbed to the decease is 0.0000094 / 1
I'll bet he is still around.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
Sent: 20-Apr-03 1:03 AM
To: Healey list
Subject: Where's Alan
Hi,
Has anyone heard from Alan (Blue One Hundred) lately? I'm a little
concerned about him with the recent news about the SARS virus in Hong
Kong. Hope he is ok.
Dave Russell
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Healeyolic" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <bluechipracing@snet.net>; <johnahsn@olypen.com>;
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 07:05:19 -0400
Subject: RE: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
The part number of the correct distance piece is 1B4527.
I notice that we have them in stock at $US24.38 ea. I could have you one
there on Tuesday.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Neil McDonald
Sent: 20-Apr-03 12:04 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
Moss does not list (Page 123) a front wheel bearing distance piece for a
BN6 with wire wheels. Does anyone know of an alternative source or a
solution to this problem?
I should mention that my car has been retro-fitted with front disc
brakes but I assume that this will not change the spec. for the bearing
distance piece. If it does, Moss lists the later distance pieces for
everything from BN7 onwards - i.e. the cars with disc brakes.
Any ideas out there?
Neil
..................................
Neil McDonald
1959 BN6
North Vancouver, BC
Canada
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 07:52:54 -0500
Subject: RE: Where's Alan
> With all due respects Dave,
>
> Hong Kong has a population of over 7 million. At last report Hong Kong
> had a SARS case load of 1,327.
>
> Based upon those numbers the possibility that Alan has contracted SARS
> is 0.0001895 / 1 and with a reported fatality rate or less than 5% the
> chances that he has succumbed to the decease is 0.0000094 / 1
>
> I'll bet he is still around.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
> Sent: 20-Apr-03 1:03 AM
> To: Healey list
> Subject: Where's Alan
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone heard from Alan (Blue One Hundred) lately? I'm a little
> concerned about him with the recent news about the SARS virus in Hong
> Kong. Hope he is ok.
>
> Dave Russell
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From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 10:53:36 -0400
Subject: Oil Additives
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 10:55:53 -0400
Subject: Re: next problem?????
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Pennell" <pennell@whro.net>
To: <GMGoodman@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: next problem?????
> Jerry and List,
>
> Can't help you Jerry. But this got me to thinking.
>
> If one were to install a retractable antennae for a radio, would it also
> work backwards because of the pos ground? If so, could reversing the
leads
> correct it?
>
> Just curious. Not ready to install a radio . . . it would muffle the
> exhaust too much!
>
> Keith Pennell
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
from the box? Is it threaded or simply pressed? I
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 08:12:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: steering tube to box joint
__________________________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 08:13:04 -0700
Subject: Outer Sills
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From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 11:18:23 -0400
Subject: 1966 BJ8 Rear Shroud For Sale
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
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From JAnde63063 at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 12:47:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Additives
I use Lucas Oil Stabilize in my BN4 (29K engine) and have found a slight
increase in
oil pressure. I have no heating problems as I had before. These findings are
what I have observed.
We add Lucas oil products in each oil change in our shop.
The Jensen factory recommend the addition of STP in their engines.
Jerry Anderson
Hendrix Wire Wheel
BN4
JH-5
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 10:16:52 -0700
Subject: Re: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
Subject: Re: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
(snip)
> Since your car has been converted you will need to find if it has the
early
> ball bearings, or later roller bearings to get the right part.
> In a message dated 4/19/03 21:05:46, nimcdonald@shaw.ca writes:
>
> << Moss does not list (Page 123) a front wheel bearing distance piece for
a
> BN6 with wire wheels. Does anyone know of an alternative source or a
solution
> to this problem?
>
> I should mention that my car has been retro-fitted with front disc brakes
but
> I assume that this will not change the spec. for the bearing distance
piece.
> If it does, Moss lists the later distance pieces for everything from BN7
> onwards - i.e. the cars with disc brakes.
>
> Any ideas out there?
> Neil McDonald
> 1959 BN6
> North Vancouver, BC
> Canada
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:35:58 EDT
Subject: Re: BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
Ball bearings were used for Disc wheel cars. that spacer is also listed at
Moss. Catalog AHY-14 page 123.
In a message dated 4/20/03 10:21:38, nimcdonald@shaw.ca writes:
<< My car has roller
bearings - so which distance piece would I need?
Neil >>
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From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:28:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Additives
Bruce Steele
bsteele2@pacbell.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Broughel
To: austin healey
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 7:53 AM
Subject: Oil Additives
Dear List:
I checked the archives and found no listings for engine oil
additives. While in the locale parts store I saw a product made by Lucas
and It's suppose to super coat all moving parts, improve ease of
starting and increase mileage. Is this something us Healey owner might
consider using?
Thanks in advance .......Dennis Broughel...........Bn-4.........45281
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:44:14 -0700
Subject: oil additives
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From Jim Hanlon <jim at hanlon.name>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 17:58:39 -0400
Subject: Rear View Mirrors
As I contemplate getting my BJ8 out for the Summer, I have vowed to do
something this year about the rear view mirror ... the lights of cars
behind me drive me nuts and I want to change to a day/night no-glare
mirror. Has anyone done this? Is there a mirror out there that has the
same screw holes as the standard BJ8 mirror? If not, what did you do to
adapt?
What about a glue-on mirror? What one would you suggest? (I have heard
that there is a particular Jaguar mirror that works well, but I don't
have any specs.)
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Regards, Jim Hanlon
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:42:29 -0400
Subject: Re:Concours Control Head Assembly
Happy Healeying,
Doug
'56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 20:01:12 -0400
Subject: Mystery Parts - ??
http://www.ledwith.com/mystery-part.htm
Any help would be appreciated
Ryan
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 20:11:21 -0400
Subject: Chassis Sag - Door Alignment Solutions?
I did frame work, but only minor patching. I have no rust (California car) and
removed my outer rocker panel but didn't touch my sills.
Does the rocker panel add strength to the sills - and is this why I have a sag
now that I've removed my rocker panels?
Basically my door gaps are too tight at the top and too wide at the bottom. If
I put a jack under the sill I can get the gap to where I am happy (roughly
1/8" the whole length). The question is how to keep it up at the correct gap.
I remember people have added strengthening stock to the sills and welded it in
place.
What type of stock? 1/2" angle iron?
What type of steel? Something from a metal supply shop?
Where to put it? Can it be added to the bottom of the sill, just inside lower
lip? Could it be welded behind the rocker panel?
Should I cut open the inner and outer sill and add it inside there? Is there
an advantage to doing this?
I don't need to open up the discussion of how much of a gap is correct, or
cutting the doors to make it fit. I just have a slight sag that makes the door
scrape against the rear striker plate.
Ryan
BJ7
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 20:13:15 -0400
Subject: Rocker Panel - repair or replace?
Should I craft new pieces for the ends (which aren't seen) and weld them to
the old rocker panels, or should I replace them.
Are there sources for rocker panels that are better than other sources. The
ones I've seen are ok but not great.
Ryan
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:56:51 -0500
Subject: Oil Additives
I just had to put in my .02 cents worth.
IMHO, I feel if you use the correct oil for your classic you won't need to
add extra additives to your oil to make it lubricate and protect like the
proper oil would in the first place.
I switched my 54 BN1 from Castrol 20W/50 to Penrite HPR 20W/60, no other
additives, and the few leaks or drips have stopped messing up my floor.
Also the pressure is up both at idle and running. The middle of the head
oil leak between 2 & 3 piston also stopped. Sounds like a miracle but
really just well formulated oil doing its job.
These old engines do not like thin oil, even newly rebuild ones. The
modern engine, say 1980 on are made with much tighter tolerances and like
thin oil.
If I can help anyone please let me know
Happy Easter
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx. 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 20:00:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Mystery Parts - ??
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From Ronald Fine <ronfineesq at earthlink.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:54:52 -0700
Subject: Adjusting Gas Gage
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 23:38:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Mystery Parts - ??
Jerry is right. Rather than try to salvage them with the cut off bolts,
just make new ones out of flat stock.
Keith Pennell
> List:
> Here is a web site with pictures of mystery parts, which I actually can't
> remember what they are.
> I have a 1964(3) BJ7. I think the parts are related to the body. There
are 2
> which are simply 4" x 3/4" by 1/4" or so
>
> http://www.ledwith.com/mystery-part.htm
>
> Any help would be appreciated
>
> Ryan
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 23:43:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirrors
I am a firm believer in the KISS principle. Rather than go to all the
trouble and expense, why not just tilt the mirror up or down slightly to
keep night time lights out of your eyes? You can then just dip or raise
your head slightly to view to the rear.
Keith Pennell
> Happy Easter Everybody.
>
> As I contemplate getting my BJ8 out for the Summer, I have vowed to do
> something this year about the rear view mirror ... the lights of cars
> behind me drive me nuts and I want to change to a day/night no-glare
> mirror. Has anyone done this? Is there a mirror out there that has the
> same screw holes as the standard BJ8 mirror? If not, what did you do to
> adapt?
>
> What about a glue-on mirror? What one would you suggest? (I have heard
> that there is a particular Jaguar mirror that works well, but I don't
> have any specs.)
>
> Any suggestions will be appreciated.
>
> Regards, Jim Hanlon
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 22:00:43 -0600
Subject: Re: Adjusting Gas Gage
The best that I have found. Follow this link to gage calibration. it
even has pictures.
Dave Russell
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm
Ronald Fine wrote:
> Does anyone know how to adjust the two small movable treaded bolts on
> the outside rear of a gas gage (BN7) which hold the coils inside the
> gage? Mine got moved before I realized that they were set and not
> intended to be moved. Now I have a working gas gage but moving these
> bolts in their slots changes the movement of the needle. Hopefully
> there is a simple way to adjust them to return them to their original
> position.
> Ron
> 61BN7
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 21:43:56 -0700
Subject: Door Alignment
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 01:08:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Adjusting Gas Gage
<< http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm >>
I have just spent an hour browsing that site - FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!! And, has a
LOT of items/thoughts/procedures which are just as relevant to Healeys as MGs.
Dick Hosmer
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From "Fred, '67 BJ8" <TheBeast at oomax.com>
From: "Michael Salter" <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
To: "'Dave & Marlene'" <rusd@velocitus.net>; "'Healey list'"
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 23:39:49 -0700
Subject: Please help me wire-up.
Now I have no experience with Healey electronics, but I can guess that there
are several things I should do since Im going to be installing a new
harness anyway. One of the upgrades is probably adding more fuse
protection, and one option Id like to also do is switch to negative ground.
Therefore Im asking for the lists help, any and all basic tips and helpful
tricks are welcomed.
Please keep in mind that Im entirely new to this, so all info is helpful
info. Everything for physical running of the wires, to where to buy the
parts, to how to add extra protection. I do understand basic wiring, but
havent dealt much with automotive wiring or Healey maintenance and
restoration.
For what its worth, my BJ8 is a good roadable car, its not concourse, but
Id like to keep it looking somewhat original.
Looking forward to getting my hands dirty and reading of your experiences!
Thanks!
Fred
67 BJ8
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, April 20, 2003 9:15 PM
Subject: Oil Additives
>Hi Guys
>
>These old engines do not like thin oil, even newly rebuild ones. The
>modern engine, say 1980 on are made with much tighter tolerances and like
>thin oil.
I use Mobile 1 synthetic in my 65---no leaks.
tom
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 04:57:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirrors
tom
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:29:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Rocker Panel - repair or replace?
Just my .02.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan@Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 8:13 PM
Subject: Rocker Panel - repair or replace?
> I have rocker panels that were rotted out behind the dog legs. Otherwise
they
> are a bit rusty on the inside but fine.
>
> Should I craft new pieces for the ends (which aren't seen) and weld them
to
> the old rocker panels, or should I replace them.
>
> Are there sources for rocker panels that are better than other sources.
The
> ones I've seen are ok but not great.
>
> Ryan
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 11:31:35 EDT
Subject: Re: Mystery Parts - ??
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:55:19 -0700
Subject: Re: BT7 rear cockpit moulding
There is a little plate that goes behind the shroud lip that the screws
holding the center piece and the two side moldings screw into. this keeps
them in line. The center piece is just wedged between the two side
moldings. If you have the original side moldings, the center piece should
fit without cutting, as any trimming would have been done in the side
pieces. No, I have no idea why it was done this way.
John, BN4
>Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 19:12:51 EDT
>From: Ptuleysr@cs.com
>Subject: BT7 rear cockpit moulding
>
>I bought that little piece to go between the two rear cockpit moldings on
my
>BT7. Now I'm not sure how it goes on. Does it fit down between the two
>pieces? It doesn't seem to want to overlap them. What is the best way to
get
>it to fit? I assume a machine shop. Open to suggestions.
>
> Price
> 60BT7
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 09:10:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Where's Alan
I'm in California now for the week.
I came back for a wedding in the Bayou in Louisiana.
I am convinced that I'll probably die of Dengue Fever
or West Nile Virus before I die of SARS. I still have
about 20 mosquito bites on my body....
Thanks for the concern, and I appreciate everyone's
thoughts. To dispell the myths, Hong Kong is pretty
safe as long as you don't have to go to the Hospital
for any reason. From what I've seen and heard, the
only people getting it these days are getting infected
when the go to the hospital for some reason.
Take Care!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dave & Marlene <rusd@velocitus.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone heard from Alan (Blue One Hundred)
> lately? I'm a little
> concerned about him with the recent news about the
> SARS virus in Hong
> Kong. Hope he is ok.
>
> Dave Russell
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 09:15:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Where's Alan
While your statistics are true, I actually have a very
good friend who contracted it when he went to the
hospital with non-SARS pneumonia. They put him in the
SARS ward as a precaution... and voila.... he
contracted SARS. So he's had two bouts of pneumonia,
back to back, courtesy of the Hong Kong health care
system. FYI he's only 40 years old, white british
guy... and he's doing ok now, although his wife and
kids have been quarantined in their house for 10 days.
Lesson: stay healthy at all cost!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> With all due respects Dave,
>
> Hong Kong has a population of over 7 million. At
> last report Hong Kong
> had a SARS case load of 1,327.
>
> Based upon those numbers the possibility that Alan
> has contracted SARS
> is 0.0001895 / 1 and with a reported fatality rate
> or less than 5% the
> chances that he has succumbed to the decease is
> 0.0000094 / 1
>
> I'll bet he is still around.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
> Sent: 20-Apr-03 1:03 AM
> To: Healey list
> Subject: Where's Alan
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone heard from Alan (Blue One Hundred)
> lately? I'm a little
> concerned about him with the recent news about the
> SARS virus in Hong
> Kong. Hope he is ok.
>
> Dave Russell
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:42:15 -0400
Subject: RE: Where's Alan
Sage advice!
As you probably know Toronto is also experiencing a significant outbreak
and this whole episode is a very important lesson to us all of the
immense dangers presented to humanity by the development of biological
weapons which are substantially more virulent and deadly.
Stay well and again my apologies to Dave Russell, it was by no means my
intention to slight his concern for your well being.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Blue One Hundred [mailto:international_investor@yahoo.com]
Sent: 21-Apr-03 12:15 PM
To: Michael Salter; 'Dave & Marlene'; 'Healey list'
Subject: RE: Where's Alan
Michael -
While your statistics are true, I actually have a very
good friend who contracted it when he went to the
hospital with non-SARS pneumonia. They put him in the
SARS ward as a precaution... and voila.... he
contracted SARS. So he's had two bouts of pneumonia,
back to back, courtesy of the Hong Kong health care
system. FYI he's only 40 years old, white british
guy... and he's doing ok now, although his wife and
kids have been quarantined in their house for 10 days.
Lesson: stay healthy at all cost!
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Michael Salter <msalter@precisionsportscar.com>
wrote:
> With all due respects Dave,
>
> Hong Kong has a population of over 7 million. At
> last report Hong Kong
> had a SARS case load of 1,327.
>
> Based upon those numbers the possibility that Alan
> has contracted SARS
> is 0.0001895 / 1 and with a reported fatality rate
> or less than 5% the
> chances that he has succumbed to the decease is
> 0.0000094 / 1
>
> I'll bet he is still around.
>
> Michael Salter
> www.precisionsportscar.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Dave & Marlene
> Sent: 20-Apr-03 1:03 AM
> To: Healey list
> Subject: Where's Alan
>
> Hi,
>
> Has anyone heard from Alan (Blue One Hundred)
> lately? I'm a little
> concerned about him with the recent news about the
> SARS virus in Hong
> Kong. Hope he is ok.
>
> Dave Russell
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:49:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirrors
Rick
San Diego
<< Has anyone done this? Is there a mirror out there that has the
> same screw holes as the standard BJ8 mirror? If not, what did you do to
> adapt? >>
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From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:56:07 -0600
Subject: Reproduction chassis?
Regards
Ross Maylor
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From "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:25:07 -0400
Subject: 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
#1 - 140
#2 - 150
#3 - 155
#4 - 40
#5 - 150
#6 - 155
Obviously something went wrong in the #4 cylinder. I put some oil in the
cylinder with no added results. Could this be a case of burnt valves? I do not
mind doing a head job, but I would hate to have to get into the bottom end. I
will also add that I noticed the oil level being very high. Now, knowing me, I
might have filled the crankcase to preserve the bearings - or it could be
gas/water from unburned fuel or head gasket leak. I just don't remember that
far ago and there is no obvious density difference on the dipstick.
Any help would be appreciated. Please copy my home address on any responses so
I can check it out tonight. that address is <olin-@ix.netcom.com>
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 15:15:18 -0400
Subject: RE: 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
At first glance your compression numbers do indicate a valve problem,
but if the engine has not run for a while it could be a simple as a
sticking valve or grunge under a valve seat.
I would recommend running the engine if possible before doing anything
rash. If running the engine is out of the question it may be worth
checking the valve clearances and then tapping on the #4 cylinder
rockers at the valve end a few times (valve closed crank position)
enough to open the valve and let it snap back onto its seat. This will
usually clear grunge from the seats.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Olin Brimberry
Sent: 21-Apr-03 2:25 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
Hello list, this is my first post in probably 8-9 years. I am back with
renewed
energy for the restoration of my 3000. I was following Normans tune up
procedure and got stuck on item 1 - Compression Test. (This test was of
course
done cold) Here are my unsatisfactory results
#1 - 140
#2 - 150
#3 - 155
#4 - 40
#5 - 150
#6 - 155
Obviously something went wrong in the #4 cylinder. I put some oil in
the
cylinder with no added results. Could this be a case of burnt valves?
I do not
mind doing a head job, but I would hate to have to get into the bottom
end. I
will also add that I noticed the oil level being very high. Now,
knowing me, I
might have filled the crankcase to preserve the bearings - or it could
be
gas/water from unburned fuel or head gasket leak. I just don't remember
that
far ago and there is no obvious density difference on the dipstick.
Any help would be appreciated. Please copy my home address on any
responses so
I can check it out tonight. that address is <olin-@ix.netcom.com>
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Alex" <alexmm at adelphia.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 15:30:36 -0400
Subject: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
In fact, Bruce interrupted a transmission rebuild to chat with me, and even
took the time to dig out a BT7 distributor so that we could inspect the
unit's oiler assembly.
Inan told me that there's going to be a 4-day Austin-Healey meet in New
Hampshire during the first weekend of August. She gave me a Web site to look
at, but it keeps reporting: "The site you have attempted to visit has ...a
limit to the amount of traffic that each site can have per day. The site you
have visited has reached that limit. Please try again another day."
For what it's worth, the URL is http://ahnesummit.cjb.net/
Weird. I've never seen a Web site with that kind of message.
Yuk.
Anyway, Inan says that the festivities will start on Thursday and end on
Sunday at Jackson's Eagle Mountain Inn.
Does anyone have more details about this event? (James, I don't see this one
on the MMSCC events calendar).
== Alex in Maine
1960 BT7 "Blue Mainie"
Former owner 1957 100-6, 1967 BJ8
AI2Q .-.-.
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 19:46:06 -0400
Subject: Re: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 19:54:54 EDT
Subject: Derrington Wheel Fit Problem
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:03:40 -0400
Subject: Re: 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
Good luck,
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Olin Brimberry
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 2:25 PM
Subject: 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
Hello list, this is my first post in probably 8-9 years. I am back with
renewed
energy for the restoration of my 3000. I was following Normans tune up
procedure and got stuck on item 1 - Compression Test. (This test was of
course
done cold) Here are my unsatisfactory results
#1 - 140
#2 - 150
#3 - 155
#4 - 40
#5 - 150
#6 - 155
Obviously something went wrong in the #4 cylinder. I put some oil in the
cylinder with no added results. Could this be a case of burnt valves? I do
not
mind doing a head job, but I would hate to have to get into the bottom end.
I
will also add that I noticed the oil level being very high. Now, knowing
me, I
might have filled the crankcase to preserve the bearings - or it could be
gas/water from unburned fuel or head gasket leak. I just don't remember
that
far ago and there is no obvious density difference on the dipstick.
Any help would be appreciated. Please copy my home address on any responses
so
I can check it out tonight. that address is <olin-@ix.netcom.com>
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:59:10 -0700
Subject: Re: leaf spring overhaul
Joe,
I found an NOS (I think) leaf spring that had the same numbers and was
stamped 'Berry'. I believe the slotted counter sunk machine screws were 1/4
x26 TPI (they may have been 27 TPI). I never could find them in the length
I needed. I think the longest I found were 2" (I think they need to be
2.25"). I have been told that 26 TPI is a British motorcycle thread. If you
find them let me know.
If there is enough interest perhaps Don at Dunright tool could make some.
John
'62 BT7
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:25:55 -0400
Subject: Re: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
Anyway, the event sounds interesting. That might make this year's long Healey
trip for me.
By the way, Healeyphiles, today marks another milestone for the BJ8 Registry:
the 4,500th car was added to the record. That's 25.5% of total original
production.
Healey on!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex
To: Healeys (E-mail)
Cc: James Lea (E-mail)
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 3:30 PM
Subject: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
Inan told me that there's going to be a 4-day Austin-Healey meet in New
Hampshire during the first weekend of August. She gave me a Web site to
look
at, but it keeps reporting: "The site you have attempted to visit has ...a
limit to the amount of traffic that each site can have per day. The site
you
have visited has reached that limit. Please try again another day."
For what it's worth, the URL is http://ahnesummit.cjb.net/
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From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:47:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Derrington Wheel Fit Problem
Gary R. Cox
'67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
Bradenton, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Meemeb@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 7:54 PM
Subject: Derrington Wheel Fit Problem
> I just replaced my steering wheel with a Derrington and boss kit adaptor
for
> the adjustable steering wheel on my 66 BJ8. It all seemed to go together
> nicely until I turned the steering wheel. The turn signal indicator rubs
on
> the wheel causing the turn signal to move. Has anyone out there
experienced
> this problem and know how to correct it?
> Bernie
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From GSFuqua1 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 21:02:22 EDT
Subject: Gear Box Oil
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 21:09:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Derrington Wheel Fit Problem
> Gary R. Cox
> '67 BJ8 (registered for Conclave 2003)
> Bradenton, FL
>
BTW, we're up to about 180 Registrations and 300 people attending so far. The
fee goes up $20 after May 1--and one of the more desirable events, the
Potomac River Champagne Cruise on Sunday from 11 AM to 2:30 PM--is fast
filling up.
Hope to see many of you there--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
PS--Don't forget to get your complimentary Eskimo Pie!
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From Ptuleysr at cs.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:03:01 EDT
Subject: Re: 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
Be sure to drain the oil to insure that it is only oil in the
crankcase. You will know immediately if there is water because that will come
out first and it will pour considerably different than the the oil. Then try
the other easy fixes the list suggests.
Price
60 BT7
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:13:49 -0700
Subject: Re: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
If you went to the event, would you be driving Tarheely from Havelock?
Hmmmm - I have been looking for a long trip with Patches . . .
Keith
> Wow, James, that's the website from hell! Not only did I get the same
message
> you did (plus "check back after midnight" -- yeah, right!), but I also got
the
> "this program has performed an illegal operation and will be shut down,
will
> not pass GO, and will not collect $200" message. And, my computer locked
up
> and would not even respond to CTRL-ALT-DEL.
>
> Anyway, the event sounds interesting. That might make this year's long
Healey
> trip for me.
>
> By the way, Healeyphiles, today marks another milestone for the BJ8
Registry:
> the 4,500th car was added to the record. That's 25.5% of total original
> production.
>
> Healey on!
>
> Steve Byers
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:46:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Gear Box Oil
I use Valvoline 30 weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox.
Valvoline because that's the only brand I can find locally of the
non-detergent persuasion.
Non-detergent because it allows wear particles to settle out instead of
circulating continously in suspension through the gears/bearings.
30 weight because that was recommended by the factory.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: GSFuqua1@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 9:02 PM
Subject: Gear Box Oil
I know I have seen this before but can't seem to find it. What is the
correct, best, oil for the gear box on my 66 BJ8? Thank you in advance!!
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:06:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Gear Box Oil
Regards,
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 00:11:47 -0400
Subject: Re: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
| Wow, James, that's the website from hell! Not only did I get the same
message
| you did (plus "check back after midnight" -- yeah, right!), but I also got
the
| "this program has performed an illegal operation and will be shut down,
will
| not pass GO, and will not collect $200" message. And, my computer locked
up
| and would not even respond to CTRL-ALT-DEL.
|
| Anyway, the event sounds interesting. That might make this year's long
Healey
| trip for me.
|
| By the way, Healeyphiles, today marks another milestone for the BJ8
Registry:
| the 4,500th car was added to the record. That's 25.5% of total original
| production.
|
| Healey on!
|
| Steve Byers
| HBJ8L/36666
| BJ8 Registry
| Havelock, NC USA
| ----- Original Message -----
| From: Alex
| To: Healeys (E-mail)
| Cc: James Lea (E-mail)
| Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 3:30 PM
| Subject: New Hampshire Austin-Healey meet
|
|
| Inan told me that there's going to be a 4-day Austin-Healey meet in New
| Hampshire during the first weekend of August. She gave me a Web site to
| look
| at, but it keeps reporting: "The site you have attempted to visit has
...a
| limit to the amount of traffic that each site can have per day. The site
| you
| have visited has reached that limit. Please try again another day."
|
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From Jon McLeroy <jfm at ballistic.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 23:27:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Gear Box Oil
My choice is Penrite Gear Oil 30 or 40. As it is formulated for the gear
box and O/D's best performance and is of course non-detergent.
Jon
Classic Auto Lubes
12803 CR 1222
Tyler, Tx 75709
Ph: 903-561-4858
Fax: 903-561-7177
Email: jfm@ballistic.com
www.classicautolubes.com
At 09:02 PM 4/21/2003 EDT, you wrote:
>I know I have seen this before but can't seem to find it. What is the
>correct, best, oil for the gear box on my 66 BJ8? Thank you in advance!!
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 22:01:11 -0700
Subject: RE: Please help me wire-up.
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Okay well now Ive done it. I started to do just a simple,
> small job on my
> 67 BJ8. All I wanted to do was refinish the wooden dash.
> Everything went
> fine, used the white glue/iron on trick to attach the veneer, and
> envirotech
> for the finish. The problem is what else I found behind the dash, several
> of the wires were cooked and the insulation melted off. One of them the
> main hot to the ignition switch. It amazes me that the whole thing hasnt
> yet caught on fire! Well just cause it hasnt certainly doesnt mean that
> it wont! So in order to avoid that, Im going to replace the wiring
> harness.
>
> Now I have no experience with Healey electronics, but I can guess
> that there
> are several things I should do since Im going to be installing a new
> harness anyway. One of the upgrades is probably adding more fuse
> protection, and one option Id like to also do is switch to
> negative ground.
>
> Therefore Im asking for the lists help, any and all basic tips
> and helpful
> tricks are welcomed.
>
> Please keep in mind that Im entirely new to this, so all info is helpful
> info. Everything for physical running of the wires, to where to buy the
> parts, to how to add extra protection. I do understand basic wiring, but
> havent dealt much with automotive wiring or Healey maintenance and
> restoration.
>
> For what its worth, my BJ8 is a good roadable car, its not
> concourse, but
> Id like to keep it looking somewhat original.
>
> Looking forward to getting my hands dirty and reading of your experiences!
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From "Douglas W. Falgg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:35:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Re:Concours Control Head Assembly
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "Olin Brimberry" <olin.brimberry.b at bayer.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 09:24:17 -0400
Subject: Answers to 62 MK II BT7 Engine questions
Here is the status after last night. I removed the valve cover and observed the
pushrods functioning as they should, also the valve springs were functioning. I
check the gap on the valves and the exhaust valve was 0.028 and the adjusting
nut was loose. After setting the proper gap, I set the valve position to the
closed position and tried to "Pop" the intake and exhaust valves loose - if they
were stuck. This was done by striking the rocker arm with a block of wood and
hammer. Recheck compression - still at 40 psi after 5 revolutions. I then put
10 ml (medicine syringe works great, but it was in metric) of Marvels Mystery
oil in the cylinder ( this may have been too thin, but it was all I had last
night) and rechecked compression - still the same.
Since I still need to clean the carbs (and the crankcase) and set up my ignition
with pertronix kit, I can not crank it at this time. So there may still be some
hope after all if it can come loose after cranking.
Maybe the experts can find some hidden information out there that is not totally
clear to me, such as - did the 028 setting on the exhaust valve create a
problem. If you have any further suggestions, please don't hesitate to send me
a note. My confidence level is still high that I can get this machine back on
the road.
Original message:
Hello list, this is my first post in probably 8-9 years. I am back with renewed
energy for the restoration of my 3000. I was following Normans tune up
procedure and got stuck on item 1 - Compression Test. (This test was of course
done cold) Here are my unsatisfactory results
#1 - 140 #2 - 150 #3 - 155 #4 - 40 #5 - 150 #6 - 155
Obviously something went wrong in the #4 cylinder. I put some oil in the
cylinder with no added results. Could this be a case of burnt valves? I do not
mind doing a head job, but I would hate to have to get into the bottom end. I
will also add that I noticed the oil level being very high. Now, knowing me, I
might have filled the crankcase to preserve the bearings - or it could be
gas/water from unburned fuel or head gasket leak. I just don't remember that
far ago and there is no obvious density difference on the dipstick. Any help
would be appreciated. Please copy my home address on any responses so I can
check it out tonight. that address is <olin-@ix.netcom.com>
Best Regards,
Olin Brimberry
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 07:39:19 -0700
Subject: Outer Sills
Brian
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From "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 09:35:27 -0700
Subject: Black Healey racing team
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From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 20:41:12 +0100
Subject: BJ7 carb linkage
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 15:04:55 -0700
Subject: Fuel Line Routing BN7
I'm in the process of routing my fuel lines for my 1960 BN7, left hand
drive, with pump to be mounted on driver side. The old lines were replaced
by hoses years ago, and the original type fuel pump was long gone. Now I
have new steel lines and a new original type fuel pump to install. The
manuals don't show much detail. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Where should the line from the gas tank to fuel pump be routed?
For the long line from fuel pump to engine, where does the back end of this
line come up?
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:16:58 EDT
Subject: Four-Seater Factory Hardtop For Sale
Best--Michael Oritt (410-586-9521)
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:25:14 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 carb linkage
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From NPaul72464 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 19:08:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing BN7
>From the fuel tank the line toes to the top of the compartment then toward
the front to just behind the access door then across to the left side forward
and down to the pump.
The line from the front on my car comes up through the V in the frame members
under the left battery (if I had a left battery) and to the pump. This was
done long before I owned the car so I can't be sure. If you would like some
pictures of the routing, let me know.
Ned Paulsen
1960 BN7
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From Douglas W Flagg <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 20:05:58 -0400
Subject: Re:100s Head & Aero Screen
Happy Healeying,
Doug '56 BN2
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:28:28 -0600
Subject: Brian Burke, Metal replacement parts
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From Dean Caccavo <healeybn7 at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:42:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: VE day (Victory Engine) - Distributor Data - Specs/Graphs
http://www.geocities.com/healeybn7/barrypage.htm
You can reach Barry through Chris Dimmock
(cd3000@bigpond.net.au) as Barry is email-free. It is
probabaly best to print the document as it is a little
difficult to read on the screen. The technical data
on spring values is found on the last page.
Hope this helps.
Dean BN7
-----------------
>
>" Chris Dimmock convinced me to send my distributor
to
> Australia, where Barry (the dizzy god) matched the
> advance curve to the new cam and rebuilt rest of the
> mechanics.....
>
> If you decide to go down this path. I can forward
> you
> all the technical data that Barry sent (6 pages of
> hand written graphs and adjustment procedures) and
> his
> contact information..."
> Dean BN7
>
>
__________________________________________________
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 20:50:01 -0500
Subject: Wiring mount points under dash
Thanks,
Chris
BJ8
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From Hoylehouse at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:08:08 EDT
Subject: 100 M ??????????
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From wilkinson at earthlink.net
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 19:10:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing BN7
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
-------Original Message-------
>
> Question,
I'm in the process of routing my fuel lines for my 1960 BN7, left hand
drive, with pump to be mounted on driver side. The old lines were
replaced
by hoses years ago, and the original type fuel pump was long gone. Now I
have new steel lines and a new original type fuel pump to install. The
manuals don't show much detail. Any guidance would be greatly
appreciated.
Where should the line from the gas tank to fuel pump be routed?
For the long line from fuel pump to engine, where does the back end of
this
line come up?
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From fawcett1187 at attbi.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 02:16:09 +0000
Subject: cable throttle linkage conversion
--
Mark
59 BT7
Carson, CA
-
-
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:18:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing BN7
<< Wouldn't that put the fuel pump right above the exhaust pipe? My pump is
mounted on the passenger side. Watch out for leaks!
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8 >>
Yes. The BN7 pump is on the exhaust side. So is my BN6...
they got waise and moved them later on.
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 22:38:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Outer Sills
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 06:32:50 -0700
Subject: wire harness clips
Thanks,
Fred
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 07:04:58 -0700
Subject: RE: Hi Greg
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Your right Greg. Looks like an accident waiting to happen to me. The
> earlier 3000s had the pump on the drivers side and the BJs were
> moved to the
> right. I plan on pluming mine in on the right side like yours
> is. A simple
> mod to prevent future problems.
>
> Enjoy the driving season, Mark
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 07:54:52 -0700
Subject: BN7 Chassis Wiring
How do I route the chassis wiring through the back of the car on my 1960 BN7
LHD. Any help would be appreciated.
Also, thank you to those that provided info on the fuel line routing in the
same area.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
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From CNAArndt at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 12:58:34 EDT
Subject: Re: leaf spring overhaul
<>
Unless that leaf spring is off of a motorcycle it is NOT a British motorcycle
thread i.e., CEI (Cycle Engineers' Institute) or BSC (British Standard
Cycle). LOL.
It is a Whitworth thread form, specifically BSF (British Standard Fine),
which just happens to be 1/4" X 26 TPI. You can buy replacement slotted
counter sunk screws just like the originals from "Namrick Ltd" in England.
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1 - with lots of BSF fasteners.
'60 AN5
In a message dated 4/21/03 5:18:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
<< Joe,
I found an NOS (I think) leaf spring that had the same numbers and was
stamped 'Berry'. I believe the slotted counter sunk machine screws were 1/4
x26 TPI (they may have been 27 TPI). I never could find them in the length
I needed. I think the longest I found were 2" (I think they need to be
2.25"). I have been told that 26 TPI is a British motorcycle thread. If you
find them let me know.
If there is enough interest perhaps Don at Dunright tool could make some.
John
'62 BT7 >>
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From Stella67 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 13:26:30 -0400
Subject: Restoration Sources
Thanks,
John
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From "Douglas W. Falgg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 14:22:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Concours 100-6 Trafficator
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
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From "Jaap Aeckerlin" <j.aeckerlin at tiscali.nl>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:29:01 +0200
Subject: Timken bearings
I hope someone can help me with the Timken numbers of BJ8 front wheel
bearings. Want to order the bearings with a local bearing supplier but forgot
to write down the numbers - and my car is 45 miles away from where I write
this....
Thanks in advance
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From Rebeltown at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 15:57:44 EDT
Subject: New Hampshire Austin Healey 4 day event
Gary Shunk '67 BJ8 #38427 N.J.
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 18:02:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Timken bearings
The Timken numbers on the front wheel bearings that I removed from my BJ8 are
as follows:
Inner: LM67010 marked on outer race, LM67048 marked on bearing and inner
race
Outer: LM11910 marked on outer race, LM11949 marked on bearing and inner
race
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Jaap Aeckerlin
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 2:29 PM
Subject: Timken bearings
Listers,
I hope someone can help me with the Timken numbers of BJ8 front wheel
bearings. Want to order the bearings with a local bearing supplier but
forgot
to write down the numbers - and my car is 45 miles away from where I write
this....
Thanks in advance
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 18:46:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Timken bearings
My previous response about the Timken part numbers for the front wheel
bearings of a BJ8 needs some additional words......
Jack Aeckerlin's car and mine are both Phase 2 BJ8s, so all is well between
us. According to the factory parts manual, the front outer bearings are
different between Phase 1 and Phase 2 cars, while the inner bearings are the
same.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
-------------------------------------------
Hi, Jack -
The Timken numbers on the front wheel bearings that I removed from my BJ8 are
as follows:
Inner: LM67010 marked on outer race, LM67048 marked on bearing and inner
race
Outer: LM11910 marked on outer race, LM11949 marked on bearing and inner
race
----------------------------------------------
Listers,
I hope someone can help me with the Timken numbers of BJ8 front wheel
bearings. Want to order the bearings with a local bearing supplier but forgot
to write down the numbers - and my car is 45 miles away from where I write
this....
Thanks in advance
Jack Aeckerlin, The Netherlands
1964 BJ8 29432
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From SERVICAR1 at cs.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 19:06:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Brian Burke, Metal replacement parts
<< healeys@autox.team.net >>
Yep I will second this, Everett does exceptional work, and a nicer guy you
will have a hard time finding. I have known Everett for over 30 years.
Lanny
59 BT7 (Louise)
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From JBHawkes at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 05:31:45 EDT
Subject: Derrington Steering Wheel Question
1. How can I determine if, in fact, my wheel is an original? It has a
wonderful black crackle finish on the rear hub that looks very 50's in style.
What are the telltale differences between the originals and reproduction
units?
2. Is the installation difficult? I have no instructions regarding
installation. Are these available somewhere? Or is this something I should
leave to someone who knows what he is doing?
3. Do I use the horn button and trafficator from the existing steering wheel?
TIA
Jim Hawkes
100M
BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 05:39:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Derrington Steering Wheel Question
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From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:44:36 +0100
Subject: Direction indicators switch
Regards
Pete Lovewell
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:10:10 EDT
Subject: Oily question
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:14:03 -0400
Subject: OD operating shaft seals
TIA
Jim
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From CAWS52803 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:32:30 EDT
Subject: Oily Question
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From Meemeb at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:51:10 EDT
Subject: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:56:27 -0400
Subject: RE: Direction indicators switch
As I read it the little chrome operating lever for your turn signals is
pointing "down" rather than "up".
If this is the problem, is probably caused by the lower section of the
stator tube being oriented incorrectly. The lower stator tube has a long
slot in its upper end to allow the "key" of the upper tube to slide up
and down as the position of the steering wheel is adjusted.
Your problem has probably been caused by your assembling the switch to
the upper stator tube in a different position.
As you say "circular plate which has 3 countersunk holes to accept the
screws which fix it to the switch which also has three holes"
The problem is easily corrected by loosening the brass nut on stator
tube at the front end of the steering box, down by the left lower
corner of the radiator, just a little and then rotating the switch
assembly to the desired position. Retighten the brass nut (not too
tight) and all will be well.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Lovewell
Sent: 24-Apr-03 8:45 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Direction indicators switch
Now I'm sure that there's a simple explanation but I recently had to
change
the wiring loom which goes down the steering column but when I rebuilt
the
horn/indicator switch assembly I found that I could only fit it back
into the
column with the indicator switch at the bottom. I have taken it apart a
couple
of times but cannot see how to get it at the top.
The centre tube locates the tube inside the column with a slotted key
and the
tube is rivetted to a circular plate which has 3 countersunk holes to
accept
the screws which fix it to the switch which also has three holes, so
there
aren't many options.
Any suggestions as it is confusing deciding which way to turn the
indicator
switch this way up?
Regards
Pete Lovewell
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:09:02 EDT
Subject: Re: Direction indicators switch
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:11:10 EDT
Subject: Re: OD operating shaft seals
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:27:35 EDT
Subject: RE: Derrington Wheel Questions
Rick
San Diego
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From Simonlachlan at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:43:55 EDT
Subject: Front suspenson bolts
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From Mark Marousky <markmarousky at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:38:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: List posting question
---------------------------------
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
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From "Ron Fine Esq." <RonFineEsq at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 20:20:37 -0700
Subject: Bumper Bracket spacers
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From "Ken Ballard" <Ken.Ballard at Coalfiresystems.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 15:44:50 -0600
Subject: Triangle box attachment
Is the Triangle Box spot welded or riveted? I've seen pictures of both. Mine
was a botch job, so I can't tell what is correct. I think it should be spot
welded, but I'm not sure. If so, how many and where were the spot welds? Any
insights on technique...I don't have a spot welder.
Thank you in advance!
Ken
BN7
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From "Classic-Car-World Ltd" <enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 23:48:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Restoration Sources
Hope this helps.
Kindest regards
Tom
Tom McCay
Classic-Car-World Ltd
Tel: 01522 888178
Fax: 0870 7059115
E-mail: enquiries@classic-car-world.co.uk
URL: http://www.classic-car-world.co.uk
----- Original Message -----
From: <Stella67@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 6:26 PM
Subject: Restoration Sources
> A number of months ago I got the names and addresses of companies to
re-finish my surround molding (I think the company is in Canada - I also need
to do my side curtains) and a company to restore my BN7 MkII badge (I think a
firm in England). Unfortunately I had a total hard drive crash and have not
been able to recover the information (I know I should have a backup). I am at
the place in this restoration where I want to take care of these items and
would appreciate hearing from any one with a source to do this work.
>
> Thanks,
> John
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 18:03:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Bumper Bracket spacers
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 18:11:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Triangle box attachment
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From "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1 at cox.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:10:12 -0700
Subject: bj8 car covers
Ronald Davies
67 BJ8
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From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 20:23:25 -0700
Subject: Re: leaf spring overhaul
Last time I checked (about 6-8 months ago) the longest Namrick carried was,
I believe, 2". They did not have 2.25" long ones. Long enough to pass
though the clamp and peen it. I believe countersunk flat head slotted
machine screws are measured from the top of the head to the bottom of the
screw. Do you have a Namrick Part Number? I checked for 1/4 x 26 TPI and
not Whitworth which may be longer.
John
'62 BT7
At 12:58 PM 4/23/03 -0400, CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
>John and All,
>
><>
>
>Unless that leaf spring is off of a motorcycle it is NOT a British motorcycle
>thread i.e., CEI (Cycle Engineers' Institute) or BSC (British Standard
>Cycle). LOL.
>
>It is a Whitworth thread form, specifically BSF (British Standard Fine),
>which just happens to be 1/4" X 26 TPI. You can buy replacement slotted
>counter sunk screws just like the originals from "Namrick Ltd" in England.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Curt Arndt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1 - with lots of BSF fasteners.
>'60 AN5
>
>
>In a message dated 4/21/03 5:18:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>jmsdarch@infoasis.com writes:
>
><< Joe,
>
> I found an NOS (I think) leaf spring that had the same numbers and was
> stamped 'Berry'. I believe the slotted counter sunk machine screws were 1/4
> x26 TPI (they may have been 27 TPI). I never could find them in the length
> I needed. I think the longest I found were 2" (I think they need to be
> 2.25"). I have been told that 26 TPI is a British motorcycle thread. If you
> find them let me know.
>
> If there is enough interest perhaps Don at Dunright tool could make some.
>
> John
> '62 BT7 >>
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 21:18:49 -0500
Subject: Finally Running!! Recommendations for timing, fuel and fuel
Finally got the last of many maddening problems sorted out Yesterday and I
gotta say,.........I do one hell of a nice job when I set my mind to
it---------drives MUCH nicer than I ever imagined. Probably the first (of
Many) car that I have restored that I am truly impressed with the end
result. Might explain why these cars are so Popular.
Anyway, I noticed today, that the car is pinging a bit, I still have not
set the timing with a light, just by ear more or less, so, I would like to
ask the collective intelligencia the following.
In hot climate driving (Texas) what have you guys found to be the best
ignition timing and fuel brand / octane combinations.
Also, is any kind of lead substitute recommended. This engine still has the
original valves/seats.
As Always, thanks for all the great input
and....................... Rick/Ed .... Who always blast me off list for
asking "stupid" questions----(putting it kindly) You may now proceed to
heckle me for asking what you probably think is another stupid question (in
your opinion)
Just remember, "opinions are like A**holes.............everybody's got one"
(:>)
Brian
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 21:25:43 -0500
Subject: can't find spring for horn button or bolts for bumper brackets
Any suggestions on where I might find these or suitable replacements (small
slinky, big ball point pen...........)?
Brian
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 22:27:50 -0700
Subject: Re: List posting question
Let's hear what you got!
Keith Pennell
> Hi all, I have not been on the Healey list for some time. I was wondering
if someone could tell me if it's ok to post cars for sale on the list? I
have a BJ8 that I need to sell before I move. Thanks, Mark Marousky
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 19:33:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
Took the BN1 out for a run around town today and heard
very sloppy klunky sounds in second gear only. I can
drive in third and first with no noise... and it seems
to make noise in 2nd whether I am under power or
coasting. It'll drive ok in second but it just makes
this ugly noise.
What is the probable diagnosis and am I in deep doo
doo?? Bearing? missing tooth?
Can I keep driving the car in 1st and 3rd for a while
without worries... or do I gotta fix this pronto?
Any advice apprciated... I'm not interested in the
Smitty thanks....
Thanks in Advance!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 22:39:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Derrington Wheel Questions
With all due respect, I must disagree with Rick. The wood wheel and hub I
got with the infamous WVa BN7 a year ago seems to be an orig Derrinton. All
the feedback from several Listers (Thanks all) and from Motalita factory
appears to point in that direction.
The hub had the remnants of a black crinkle finish on it.
Unfortunately the hub was for a nonadjust column so could not use it. Later
I did find one from a fellow Lister and all worked out well. The rough
wheel took probably 20 hours work but it is now a knockout!
BTW The nonadjust hub is for sale if anyone has need.
Keith Pennell
> If you are describing black wrinkle paint on the hub in the center it's
> likely a repro. I'm pretty sure many of the originals were polished
aluminum.
> Also, to find a brand stamp, you may find it if you remove the screws that
> hold the wheel to the hub and look on the wheel under the mounting flange.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 23:10:57 -0400
Subject: Re: OD operating shaft seals
Jim
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 22:23:28 -0500
Subject: Source for Healey cockpit cover
Brian
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From Chris Dimmock <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 13:18:12 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
You need to firstly drain the oil (and get an idea of how much crushed up
metal is in there - and how big the pieces are). Don't forget that the same
oil is going through the overdrive - so draining the oil is the first step
towards not doing other/ more damage. Depending on what you find - then see
if you can take the side cover off - and see where it came from.
Then you can decide whether to keep driving it. eg if you find nothing in
the oil - it may be that 3rd has worn through the case hardening - if you
find pieces of busted gear tooth - then you shouldn't keep driving it with
those going through the aluminium overdrive housing (as they will score the
accum piston etc bores etc). No filter in a gearbox/ overdrive - just a
'strainer' to keep the really big bits out....
"Second" gear in the BN1 box is 3rd on the cluster. If there are no other
noises in any other gear - then I'd say the 3rd gear has a chipped/broken
tooth or has worn through the case hardening etc. So it could be either the
gear on the mainshaft - or the gear on the cluster - or both.
What solutions are there? Problem with a BN1 is that they are all now closer
to 50 years old - and no one (that I know of - eg AH Spares) makes repros
for them. Whereas in a BJ8, you can get repros, occasional NOS or even an
entire brand new, straight cut close ratio gearset - there are no such
options for BN1's to my knowledge.
The best you'll do is to find another BN1 gearbox - or a specific part
second hand - once you know what you need (ie mainshaft 3rd gear or a
complete cluster or both) Many BN1's break their 1st gear (which is actually
2nd gear in the gearbox) - and in the process - they also destroy the 2nd
gear on the cluster gear (the one with 4 gears on it - so getting one with
that problem that won't help if your cluster gear is broken.....)
Most people in this situation go Smittys or BN2 type gearbox - both of which
require 'other changes' to your BN1 (clutch actuation, changes to
crossmember etc)
The other alternative that many of us here in Australia have resorted to is
to use a gearset from another Austin sedan of the era - typically Austin
A70. The ratios are 'differerent' - which means that you can't just swap a
single gear over - but if you swap the whole gearset over - then you don't
have a problem. Finding an Austin A70 gearbox in 2003 is the hard part -
most BN1 owners got one or two & stashed them under their houses 20 - 30
years ago - so most A70s lying forlorn in paddocks don't have A70 gearboxes
in them anymore!
But this method means you end up with a 3 speed box again - i.e. your old
BN1 box with different gears, on the BN1 mainshaft, with your BN1
overdrive - that has slightly 'different ratios' - but I honestly don't
think it either matters, or can be picked, on a road car. And because the
gearset worked in the sedan as a 4 speed (and probably hasn't been used for
20 - 30 years) - second gear got used as second gear - not as first - and
the sedan box has done a lot less work (as it got wrecked out about 20 years
ago - so the mileage is far lower!). And if ratios matter that much - use
the opportunity to get 4 rather than 3 with a BN2 box..
Maybe someone is now repairing BN1 cluster gears? I'm sure a specialist
could - but I think it would be big bucks...
You need to have a look and see what the problem is Alan, and whets in the
oil - then once we know what you are after - we can scour the respective
sheds and boxes to try to help find it for you.
Hope that helps
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 12:33 PM
Subject: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
> Hi All -
>
> Took the BN1 out for a run around town today and heard
> very sloppy klunky sounds in second gear only. I can
> drive in third and first with no noise... and it seems
> to make noise in 2nd whether I am under power or
> coasting. It'll drive ok in second but it just makes
> this ugly noise.
>
> What is the probable diagnosis and am I in deep doo
> doo?? Bearing? missing tooth?
>
> Can I keep driving the car in 1st and 3rd for a while
> without worries... or do I gotta fix this pronto?
>
> Any advice apprciated... I'm not interested in the
> Smitty thanks....
>
> Thanks in Advance!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Ryan at Ledwith" <ryan@ledwith.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 00:25:29 -0400
Subject: Braising versus MIG Welding - when to do it?
Thanks
Ryan
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 09:05:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
You should have received instructions with this kit - in particular, the wiring
with an alternator is very different. It is also usual to change the pulley
size as an alternator turns at a higher speed compared to a dynamo. (This gives
the alternator one of its advantages - it can generate useful power at idle).
I suggest that you contact DW and ask them to send you a set.
BTW, this doesn't sound on the face of it to be a very complete kit - it would
also be worth checking that you have all of the parts.
Regards
Paul
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:51:10 EDT
From: Meemeb@aol.com
Subject: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
> I have recently purchased a Lucas Alternator Conversion kit from Dennis
> Welch in order to convert from positive ground to negative in my 1966 BJ8
> and it came with no installation instructions. I have searched the
> archives and seen a lot of messages on conversion from generators to
> alternators but didn't see anything specific to the Lucas Alternator. Can
> anyone help me with detailed and basic instructions on the installation and
> wiring changes necessary?
> 1. This Lucas alternator did not come with a fan and pulley, so, I removed
> the fan and pulley from my original generator and transferred it to the
> Lucas Alternator. Was this the correct thing to do?
> 2. The metal adjusting link that controls the amount of tension on the fan
> belt was transferred from my original generator set up with some difficulty
> which has resulted in the belt being extremely tight with no give when
> pressing on the belt as you would normally see when adjusting the fan belt
> on a generator set up. I cut out the groove on a spare metal adjusting
> link and plan to switch this with the original due to anticipating the need
> to replace the fan belt on the side of the road some dark night and want to
> be able to do this with less difficulty. Should the belt tension be this
> tight? Should the belt have the same give as when adjusting it for a
> generator set up?
> 3. Can I just hook up the wiring leads from my new wiring harness to the
> Lucas alternator in the same manner as these wires were hooked up to my
> generator? If not, what wiring changes will I need to make and what guage
> wiring will I need to use?
> 4. Does the change to the Lucas Alternator require me to change the wiring
> in the regulator/control box on the firewall, and if so can someone give me
> specific and basic directions on how to do this?
> 5. What other changes will I need to make to wiring connections and other
> things such as tachometer, coil, solid state electronic fuel pump, etc. on
> my BJ8 as a result of this switch from positive to negative ground?
> 6. Will the generator light on my dash still function in the same manner,
> i.e. will it glow red if the battery is not being charged?
> 7. When I get everything hooked up, what do I need to look out for when
> starting my Healey for the first time after this conversion? How will I
> know that I am not damaging some component or creating a molten mess of my
> new wiring harness and letting all the smoke out of my wiring somewhere?
> Thanks in advance for any and all advice, and please keep it basic as I am
> a babe in the woods when it comes to electrical things in my Healey, but I
> still like to try to do these things myself.
> Bernie
------------------------------
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From Magnus Karlsson <492karlsson at telia.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 12:26:33 +0200
Subject: Re: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
I would contact Hardy Engineering in the UK. They are the only ones
that I know of who carries a lot of spare parts for these gearboxes +
lots of knowledge. Thinking about the rarity of your box I would speak
to them before keeping driving.
Hardy Engineering
enquiry@hardyengineering.co.uk
01372 378927
01372 376794
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 07:24:59 -0400
Subject: RE: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
Sorry to hear about your gearbox.
I would not recommend driving the car. It is very likely that you will
do more damage.
I have a fair selection on BN1 gearbox parts. Let me know what you find
when you get it apart.
You have to be careful which gears you use as there are 2 different sets
in BN1 boxes.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Blue One Hundred
Sent: 24-Apr-03 10:34 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
Hi All -
Took the BN1 out for a run around town today and heard
very sloppy klunky sounds in second gear only. I can
drive in third and first with no noise... and it seems
to make noise in 2nd whether I am under power or
coasting. It'll drive ok in second but it just makes
this ugly noise.
What is the probable diagnosis and am I in deep doo
doo?? Bearing? missing tooth?
Can I keep driving the car in 1st and 3rd for a while
without worries... or do I gotta fix this pronto?
Any advice apprciated... I'm not interested in the
Smitty thanks....
Thanks in Advance!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 08:36:17 -0700
Subject: speedo gauge
Fred
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From dicksonr at uwm.edu
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 11:00:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Braising versus MIG Welding - when to do it?
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
Sturgeon Bay, WI.
63 BJ-7
66 427 Cobra Replica
Neither of which are on the road and the weather is great now, Damn!!!!!!
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From John Loftus <loftusdesign at cox.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 09:46:39 -0700
Subject: O.T. honda commercial - delete if not interested
http://www.winisp.net/bogusboy/hondaad.htm
Cheers,
John
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From "Fred, '67 BJ8" <TheBeast at oomax.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 10:32:02 -0700
Subject: RE: O.T. honda commercial - delete if not interested
Thought you gear heads would like this although the "wheels rolling
uphill" section seems to defy physics. Make sure the volume is on.
http://www.winisp.net/bogusboy/hondaad.htm
Cheers,
John
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From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 15:41:53 EDT
Subject: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
Gene
BN4
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 15:48:22 -0400
Subject: Machinery Manuals Home Page
http://www.machinerybrochures.com/index.html
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7 III
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From "John" <john4 at attbi.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 13:06:05 -0700
Subject: Golden Gate May event
A drive through Western Marin County's San Geronimo Valley and the Point Reyes
National Seashore starts Sunday, May 4 at 11 AM.
The trip will go north up Sir Francis Drake Blvd. through San Anselmo,
Kentfield, Ross and Fairfax. The tour will head over White's Hill into the San
Geronimo Valley, and then down a two-lane western Marin back roads through
redwood forests, gently rolling hills and pristine farmland past historic
villages of San Geronimo, Forest Knolls, Lagunitas, Olima and Point Reyes
Station.
Before reaching the seashore, the tour will stop for a 30-Minute break
at Samuel P. Taylor State Park.
At the Pacific Ocean the tour will visit historic Point Reyes
Station, then proceed along Tamales Bay to Inverness and the Point Reyes
National Seashore.
There will a picnic stop at the Drake's Bay/Point Reyes Lighthouse so
bring along food and drink. Those who wish to do so may take a 5 minute
park-provided shuttle to the Point Reyes Lighthouse.
This segment of the trip will last 90 minutes, including our stop in
the Redwoods and visit to Point Reyes Village. It will be another 20-30
minutes to historic Drake's Bay. The trip will end at Drake's Bay, and those
on the tour can return to the Bay Area via Highway 1 through Bolinas and
Stinson Beach and over the hill to Mill Valley or eastbound on the same Sir
Francis Drake Blvd.
The tour starts in the parking lot of the Larkspur Ferry Terminal.
Arrival time is between 10:30 AM and 11 AM. The tour departs promptly at 11
AM.
Directions: The Larkspur Golden Gate Ferry Terminal is located in
southern Marin, just off of Hwy 101 (the south side) at Sir Francis Drake
Blvd. near Larkspur Landing Shopping Center.
For more information contact Randy Harris at (510) 339-1414 or by
email at coop1@rcn.com
REMINDER-If you are going on the Sierra Passes Tour (June 7-8) you must make
your hotel reservations by May 5
Dave Nock reports that the two-day Sierra passes Tour scheduled for June 7 -8
is looking good. He has reserved 10 Rooms at the historic Fallon Hotel in
Columbia for one night, but they can be held only until May 10. If you plan
to go on the tour, you must get a check for your room to Dave by May 5. Dave
will make the reservation.
There are a number of different rooms available ranging from $65
to $124. Call Dave at 209-948-8767 (days) or 209-824-1562 (evenings) for
further information concerning the rooms.
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 16:18:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
<< I need immediate information as to where I can order quality inner
engine
components at a fair price. I have a M--- catalog but suspect I can do
better?
Gene
BN4 >>
There are several sources. Many with fair prices.
I just ordered most of my internals from AH Spares and found their prices to
be quite fair and their website be easy to use and comprehensive. SC Parts
have still not responded to my emails and their website is worthless. Denis
Welch and Cape-international have goos slections of high quality parts with
slightly higher prices. Both have capable web sites and are quick to respond.
I ordered Pistons/rings; Main, Cam, rod bearings; Rear main oil seal;
Lifters, etc. From AH Spares.
The best price I found on a uprated crank damper was SC Parts, but they
haven't responded to emails.
Cape-International was quick to respond and they are sending their aluminum
rear engine plate Lighter and pre-cut for rear main oil seal kit clearance.
I got a lightened flywheel and clutch assy. from Bill Bolton.
Rick
San Diego
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 17:24:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Brazing versus MIG Welding - when to do it?
Between the two methods, brazing produces a lot more heat over a larger area,
and you stand a much greater chance of warping the metal considerably, or
burning through. Brazing is more fun, though.....
Good luck!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan@Ledwith
To: Healey List
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 12:25 AM
Subject: Braising versus MIG Welding - when to do it?
I'm thinking about adding 1/8" to the front edge of my door to get the gap
down. My MIG welding skills are pretty poor and I was wondering if braising
might give me better results. What can you tell me about the merits of
braising versus welding? will it hold up over time and resist cracking? is
it
a smoother way to connect sheet metal? Are there disadvantages?
Thanks
Ryan
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 15:46:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
Go here, AH Club USA, scroll down to "Conclave 2003 Sponsors" There is a
pretty good list of parts sources.
http://www.serve.com/AHCA/
Dave Russell
BN2
ECP4UW@aol.com wrote:
> I need immediate information as to where I can order quality inner engine
> components at a fair price. I have a M--- catalog but suspect I can do
> better?
>
> Gene
> BN4
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 16:56:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Brazing versus MIG Welding - when to do it?
Dave Russell
BJ8Healeys wrote:
> Hi, Ryan -
>
> Between the two methods, brazing produces a lot more heat over a larger area,
> and you stand a much greater chance of warping the metal considerably, or
> burning through. Brazing is more fun, though.....
>
> Good luck!
> Steve Byers
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From "John Trumpe" <jtrumpe at rushmore.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 17:37:38 -0600
Subject: Honda domino effect demo.
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From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 21:57:36 EDT
Subject: Help locating engine pan
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From cyfied <cyfied at uslink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 22:58:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Braising versus MIG Welding - when to do it?
Rick Ollah
54 BN1 (well most of it)
"Ryan@Ledwith" wrote:
> I'm thinking about adding 1/8" to the front edge of my door to get the gap
> down. My MIG welding skills are pretty poor and I was wondering if braising
> might give me better results. What can you tell me about the merits of
> braising versus welding? will it hold up over time and resist cracking? is it
> a smoother way to connect sheet metal? Are there disadvantages?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ryan
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From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 08:56:38 -0500
Subject: She started!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I bought my BJ8 in 1998 and started the restoration on a car that had been
sitting since 1977 I think. Thanks to all on the list that have given me
info and tips over that time. Many many hours later it is coming together,
and I am extremely happy to report that on Thursday I started her up!!!!
What a glorious sound, good oil pressure, temp stayed right at 165...whew!
It still needs quite a bit of tuning, and the fuel pump needs an adjustment,
but it runs without any bad noises...and very smoothly considering how far
off the carbs and timing are. I woud have written earlier, but yesterday I
had surgery to fix my knee. The pain isn't that bad, but not being able to
get into the garage is killing me!
By next weekend she should be purring.
Cheers,
Chris (smiling from ear to ear)
BJ8...running again!
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From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 19:54:50 +0200
Subject: Re: O.T. honda commercial - delete if not interested - The
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.jhtml?xml=%2Fnews%2F2003%2F04%2F13%2Fnhonda13.xml
Cheers
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred, '67 BJ8" <TheBeast@oomax.com>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 7:32 PM
Subject: RE: O.T. honda commercial - delete if not interested
> There's a bit of debate about whether this amazing commercial is live
> action, animation, or a combo of both. Here's an article that claims it's
> live action and that it took 4 days and over 600 "takes" before they got it
> right.
>
> Thought you gear heads would like this although the "wheels rolling
> uphill" section seems to defy physics. Make sure the volume is on.
>
> http://www.winisp.net/bogusboy/hondaad.htm
>
> Cheers,
> John
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From Jonathan and Carole Quandt <fourqz at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 12:35:12 -0700
Subject: speedo angle drive
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 17:44:36 -0400
Subject: Re: speedo angle drive
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 15:51:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
While the latter-day cannonball may indeed have
been inspired by the
aforementioned bit of Hollywood fluff, the movie
was itself inspired by the
events organized by Brock Yates and Car and Driver
magazine (I think) during the
1960s.
The full name of the event, if I remember
correctly, was "The Cannonball Baker
Sea to Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dash".
Cannonball Baker was of course one of the first to
drive a motor vehicle all the
way across the country. If I remember correctly it
was a Packard in 1904. I
can't remember how long it took. He started in
California after dipping his rear
wheels in the Pacific. When he reach the Atlantic
he finished by dipping the
front wheels in that ocean.
A mind is a terrible thing to waste...
Bill Lawrence
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> Don't know what prompted this thread and it may be coincidental that my
> local newspaper reported the following this morning:
>
> "OFFICIALS CATCH GUMBALL DRIVERS. With speeds exceeding 100 mph and at
> times passing cars from the shoulder, about 200 contestants in the Gumball
> 3000 rally - a modern day "Cannonball Run" - raced their Ferraris, Porsches
> and BMWs through Solano County on Thursday night.
>
> Solano Highway Patrol Officers arrested three entrants and cited four others
> shortly after they left San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel en-route to Miami in
> the six day road race.....
>
> The racers will make stops in Las Vegas, Tucson, San Antonio and New
> Orleans, before finishing 3,000 miles away in Maimi Beach on Tuesday.....".
>
> The article also noted that the cross-country trek, inspired by the 1970s
> Burt Reynolds film "Cannonball Run", costs about $12,000 to enter.
>
> Any takers on the list for next year?
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 20:17:07 -0400
Subject: RE: speedo angle drive
The usual cause of failure of the speedo angle drive is breakage of the
short piece of speedo inner cable that inserts into the pinion in the
gearbox.
You can replace it, presuming that you have a piece of speedo cable with
a squared end on it.
To disassemble the box carefully drive the shaft which takes the section
of cable inward to pop off the welsh plug that holds it in.
Use a pin punch to drive the broken piece of cable out of the center of
the gear and install the new piece of cable.
Sometimes a little difficult to get the welsh plug back in but once it
is in position a couple of light taps on the center of it will usually
secure it in position.
If the piece of speedo cable that you are using to replace the original
is a little loose it can be soldered into position.
BTW the easiest way to cut speedo cable is with a grinding wheel.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jonathan and Carole Quandt
Sent: 26-Apr-03 3:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: speedo angle drive
Has anyone rebuilt an angle drive for a speedo? I understand that it
can be done using an old speedo cable but does one have to disassemble
the housing? The cable end inside the housing does not have a square
end should this tiny cable be square at both ends? Any advise including
don't bother trying ? thanks Jaunito
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From "Mark Endicott" <mark at nashvilletn.org>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 20:44:41 -0500
Subject: BN1 Boot Lid Revisited
Thanks,
Mark
Nashville
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From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 21:21:05 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Boot Lid Revisited
Mark Endicott wrote:
>Some you may recall that a minor accident wrinkled the boot lid on my BN1,
>Dec.53 Mfg.. My insurance company approved and we ordered a new one from
>Moss that was supposed to be close. In fairness to Moss they did tell us
>that it would require 8-10 hours of prep to make it "right" When it came in
>we laid it on the back of the car and it was nearly 2 inches short of mating
>with the lower boot opening. It also looks like my car has a slight curve
>to the bottom of the lid, with the center being the longest. There is no
>way, without welding more aluminum on this lid, that it is going to work.
>Does anybody know about this curved lower surface of the lid on the BN1? We
>now think the original would require much less work than the new one. Any
>Thoughts?
>
>Thanks,
>Mark
>Nashville
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From Neil McDonald <nimcdonald at shaw.ca>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 19:43:36 -0700
Subject: Answer re BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
The simple (offline) answer that I received from Bill Bolton is "if the
spindle has 12 threads per inch you have a Mark I or II brake setup and if
it has 8 threads per inch you have Mark III brakes"
Now I know. Simple eh?
Thanks Bill
..................................
Neil McDonald
BN6
North Vancouver,
Canada
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 20:10:12 -0700
Subject: BN1 Boot lid
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 23:10:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Answer re BN6 Bearing Distance Piece
<< The simple (offline) answer that I received from Bill Bolton is "if the
spindle has 12 threads per inch you have a Mark I or II brake setup and if
it has 8 threads per inch you have Mark III brakes" >>
Bill Bolton is the man.
He sold me the spacer that I'm using in my BN6 right now.
Rick
San Diego
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 06:20:19 -0500
Subject: PRESS RELEASE
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From "Jim LeBlanc" <jleblanc at midsouth.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 10:43:14 -0500
Subject: Re: bj8 car covers
I use the cover on my car while in the garage or parked outside.
The benefits of the the Beverly Hills product include fit and material. The
cotton permits moisture to escape and protects the car from dirt and sun.
The thin material also rolls nicely and fits better into the "ample" storage
space in these Healeys while travelling.
For use I find that a regular pattern of covering the car from front to
back, later followed by removing the cover from back to front gives me the
fastest installation and removal procedure. This avoids having to reinstall
it 50% of the time due to starting from the wrong end.
In past years I have covered a car with plastic only to later discover the
bad effects of sun and mosture trapped by plastic. The plastic amplifies the
heat and traps the heat to the extent that the paint was baked off the
speedometer and dashboard.
In my opinion, any car cover would work for short term use and for covering
the car for the occasional evening out of the garage. But for the archives I
wanted to offer this fuller dialog.
Best Regards,
Jim LeBlanc
1956 100-M
Memphis, TN
California Registration w/ CA License Plate XNK101
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davies, DDS" <rdavies1@cox.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:10 PM
Subject: bj8 car covers
> I did an archive search but didn't come up with anything I needed...
> Can anyone recommend a car cover for a BJ8? Light use, for overnight club
> trips, the rest of the time it's garaged.
> Thanks,
>
> Ronald Davies
> 67 BJ8
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 09:10:54 -0700
Subject: RE: PRESS RELEASE
> -----Original Message-----
>
> the wall family has a brand new addition born 2-18-03 in the form
> of a genuine wire-haired fox terrier named...............( drum
> roll ).....LUCAS HEALEY !! he registers 120% on the cute scale
> and went for his first Healey ride yesterday.
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From "matt wilson" <mwilson18 at cox.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 09:38:04 -0700
Subject: AH 3000 Fuel Overflow
The car was shinning so nice. Sitting so pretty. Not a worry in the world.
New leather seats. New steering wheel. Fresh wiring harness. New correct
hardtop installed and looking so good. Then from the calm of a warm perfect
Southern California day came extreme and silent horror. That's right...
horror!!!!!!
By this time the Healey had been sitting in the sun for about 4 hours when I
walked around my house, through the side gate, which would have me pass by the
car. To my shock and to my complete and utter disbelief I had a steady stream
of fuel running from my gas cap all down my rear shroud. Sadly... and I do
mean very very sadly... this must have been taking place for hours. The paint
was completely wrinkled as if it had been subjected to paint stripper. 12
inches in length and 3 inches wide. That was the swath of destruction. I did
not collapse to my knees in agony. I did not scream four letter words
beginning with "F". Rather a calm acceptance came over me. I knew this
couldn't instantly be reversed... but... it can never happen again.
When I removed the gas cap the fuel level was obviously running over the brim.
However with the cap removed the fuel level quickly dropped about 6-8 inches
inside the filler neck. And then when I started the motor the fuel went
completely out of sight into the tank.
Anyway I tell all this because I am hoping there is something I can do in the
future to avoid this? Other than not filling it up too full? Is there a
special filler neck that I can install that has an overflow drain on it? Was
this some result of the car's fuel heating up and expanding? I can have the
car's rear shroud area repainted but I could not live with myself if I let
this happen again.
Best Regards,
Matt Wilson
1960 AH 3000 BT7
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From "I Erbs" <eyera3 at attbi.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 09:42:18 -0700
Subject: RE: PRESS RELEASE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Greg Wilkinson
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 9:11 AM
To: Jerry Wall
Cc: To Healey List
Subject: RE: PRESS RELEASE
Hi Jerry,
Congrats, He wouldn't be smokey black in color would he?
> -----Original Message-----
>
> the wall family has a brand new addition born 2-18-03 in the form
> of a genuine wire-haired fox terrier named...............( drum
> roll ).....LUCAS HEALEY !! he registers 120% on the cute scale
> and went for his first Healey ride yesterday.
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 13:14:01 -0400
Subject: Re: AH 3000 Fuel Overflow
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
| Anyway I tell all this because I am hoping there is something I can do in
the
| future to avoid this? Other than not filling it up too full? Is there a
| special filler neck that I can install that has an overflow drain on it?
Was
| this some result of the car's fuel heating up and expanding? I can have
the
| car's rear shroud area repainted but I could not live with myself if I let
| this happen again.
| Best Regards,
| Matt Wilson
| 1960 AH 3000 BT7
|
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 15:20:45 -0600
Subject: Re: BN1 Boot Lid Revisited
Bill Lawrence
Mark Endicott wrote:
> Some you may recall that a minor accident wrinkled the boot lid on my BN1,
> Dec.53 Mfg.. My insurance company approved and we ordered a new one from
> Moss that was supposed to be close. In fairness to Moss they did tell us
> that it would require 8-10 hours of prep to make it "right" When it came in
> we laid it on the back of the car and it was nearly 2 inches short of mating
> with the lower boot opening. It also looks like my car has a slight curve
> to the bottom of the lid, with the center being the longest. There is no
> way, without welding more aluminum on this lid, that it is going to work.
> Does anybody know about this curved lower surface of the lid on the BN1? We
> now think the original would require much less work than the new one. Any
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Mark
> Nashville
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From HealeyXL at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 19:14:44 EDT
Subject: Loosened hub caps
Ralf - BT 7
Frankfurt/Germany
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 17:59:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
Are you sure that the hubs & caps are on the correct sides of the car?
Right hand thread on the left side, left hand thread on the right side.
If not, they will tend to self loosen instead of self tighten. __ Aside:
don't tow the car backward.
It is generally recommended to grease the threads as well as the splines
& hub mating surfaces & tighten to "as tight as you can get" with a two
or three pound hammer. It would be pretty hard to strip one. Also have
the weight off the wheel when tightening. Doesn't matter when loosening.
Dave Russell
HealeyXL@aol.com wrote:
> What is the correct torque (if that could be measured with a mallet)?
> Did I use to much grease for the thread? Do I have to use any grease
> at all And the last question in that context: what is better for the
> wire wheels, to loose and thighten the hub caps before or after the
> car is jacked up? Thanks to everybody who helps me to do it better
> next time.
>
> Ralf - BT 7 Frankfurt/Germany
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:00:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
Wie geht es Ihnen?
The knockoff should be tightened with the wheel off the ground. I avoid
hitting the knockoff directly with a hammer, preferring to use a piece of wood
against the knockoff and hammer on that. It saves beating up the knockoff,
and avoids beating up the hammer as well. Tighten the knockoff until it does
not appear to move when you hit it, then lower the wheel off the jack and hit
a couple more blows for good measure. The knockoff will normally tighten
itself a bit more as you drive anyway.
Once the knockoff is tight, I recommend painting "slip marks" on the knockoff
and the adjacent wheel hub. These are just small marks, one on the knockoff
and one on the hub that can be all but invisible to anyone but you. If the
marks ever move in the wrong (loosening) direction relative to each other,
then you will know it at a glance. It's easy to check these marks whenever
you want.
I always grease the threads of the knockoff and hub when I clean and re-grease
the wheel and hub splines, and I smear a thin film of grease on the wheel hub
cone mating surface for the knockoff.
I have never had a knockoff loosen itself before, but I have heard that towing
a car backwards can cause them to loosen.
Frvhliches Healeyfahren!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: HealeyXL@aol.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 7:14 PM
Subject: Loosened hub caps
The question might sound simple and I would probably not have send it to the
List if I hadn't almost lost my front wire wheel today (at a gas station I
could simply take the cap off with a 1/2 turn!!).
The hub cap obviously went loose even tightened with a hammer, but probably
not tight enough or to tight and therefore striped?
What is the correct torque (if that could be measured with a mallet)?
Did I use to much grease for the thread? Do I have to use any grease at all
or just a bit of graphit powder as a friend told me?
Probably it was my bad English when following the advise from my English
manual "to smear the splines with grease" which I thought includes the
threads.
And the last question in that context: what is better for the wire wheels,
to
loose and thighten the hub caps before or after the car is jacked up?
Thanks to everybody who helps me to do it better next time.
Ralf - BT 7
Frankfurt/Germany
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:10:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
> I recommend painting "slip marks" on the knockoff
> and the adjacent wheel hub. These are just small marks, one on the
> knockoff
> and one on the hub that can be all but invisible to anyone but you. If the
> marks ever move in the wrong (loosening) direction relative to each other,
> then you will know it at a glance. It's easy to check these marks whenever
> you want.
>
How about a safety wire from one ear of the knock-off to a spoke--is this
ever done?
Michael
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:09:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
The first thing that crossed my mind is whether or not the left hubs are on the
left side and the right hubs are on the right side. Did you recently have the
hubs off? Possibly to do brakes?
Bob Denton
HealeyXL@aol.com wrote:
> The question might sound simple and I would probably not have send it to the
> List if I hadn't almost lost my front wire wheel today (at a gas station I
> could simply take the cap off with a 1/2 turn!!).
> The hub cap obviously went loose even tightened with a hammer, but probably
> not tight enough or to tight and therefore striped?
> What is the correct torque (if that could be measured with a mallet)?
> Did I use to much grease for the thread? Do I have to use any grease at all
> or just a bit of graphit powder as a friend told me?
> Probably it was my bad English when following the advise from my English
> manual "to smear the splines with grease" which I thought includes the
> threads.
> And the last question in that context: what is better for the wire wheels, to
> loose and thighten the hub caps before or after the car is jacked up?
> Thanks to everybody who helps me to do it better next time.
>
> Ralf - BT 7
> Frankfurt/Germany
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:25:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
It's done on sprint cars with Haliburton knock offs all the time. Also on most
Hot Rod and Cobra replica applications using Haliburtons. The reason is that
left and right side are the same thread.
Bob Denton
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/27/2003 8:08:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> sbyers@ec.rr.com writes:
>
> > I recommend painting "slip marks" on the knockoff
> > and the adjacent wheel hub. These are just small marks, one on the
> > knockoff
> > and one on the hub that can be all but invisible to anyone but you. If the
> > marks ever move in the wrong (loosening) direction relative to each other,
> > then you will know it at a glance. It's easy to check these marks whenever
> > you want.
> >
>
> How about a safety wire from one ear of the knock-off to a spoke--is this
> ever done?
>
> Michael
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 10:30:46 +1000
Subject: RE: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
Excellent response from Chris and 100% correct of course.
Back when I had a BN1 (1972 -1977) I think I managed to stuff up seven second
gears or clusters (2nd in the change) and became rather expert at rebuilding
the boxes. In fact if I can rebuild the box anyone can.
Two of the times I managed to crunch the box was when I was close to 1,000 Ks
from home and after an oil change made it home without further damage.
However back then new clusters could be had for just $45.00 at the local BMC
spare parts outlet or from fellow club members. About two months back I rebuilt
a BN1 box of a friend after he had bought a second hand cluster for Aus$450.00.
Speaking to a friend who raced a BN1 back in the 50s and 60s he says that the
boxes were a pain even when new. He went to great pains with appropriate
spacers either end of the cluster (laygear) gear to ensure that maximum gear
meshing took place.
Have fun.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:cd3000@bigpond.net.au]
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 1:18 PM
To: Blue One Hundred; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
Hi Alan,
You need to firstly drain the oil (and get an idea of how much crushed up
metal is in there - and how big the pieces are). Don't forget that the same
oil is going through the overdrive - so draining the oil is the first step
towards not doing other/ more damage. Depending on what you find - then see
if you can take the side cover off - and see where it came from.
Then you can decide whether to keep driving it. eg if you find nothing in
the oil - it may be that 3rd has worn through the case hardening - if you
find pieces of busted gear tooth - then you shouldn't keep driving it with
those going through the aluminium overdrive housing (as they will score the
accum piston etc bores etc). No filter in a gearbox/ overdrive - just a
'strainer' to keep the really big bits out....
"Second" gear in the BN1 box is 3rd on the cluster. If there are no other
noises in any other gear - then I'd say the 3rd gear has a chipped/broken
tooth or has worn through the case hardening etc. So it could be either the
gear on the mainshaft - or the gear on the cluster - or both.
What solutions are there? Problem with a BN1 is that they are all now closer
to 50 years old - and no one (that I know of - eg AH Spares) makes repros
for them. Whereas in a BJ8, you can get repros, occasional NOS or even an
entire brand new, straight cut close ratio gearset - there are no such
options for BN1's to my knowledge.
The best you'll do is to find another BN1 gearbox - or a specific part
second hand - once you know what you need (ie mainshaft 3rd gear or a
complete cluster or both) Many BN1's break their 1st gear (which is actually
2nd gear in the gearbox) - and in the process - they also destroy the 2nd
gear on the cluster gear (the one with 4 gears on it - so getting one with
that problem that won't help if your cluster gear is broken.....)
Most people in this situation go Smittys or BN2 type gearbox - both of which
require 'other changes' to your BN1 (clutch actuation, changes to
crossmember etc)
The other alternative that many of us here in Australia have resorted to is
to use a gearset from another Austin sedan of the era - typically Austin
A70. The ratios are 'differerent' - which means that you can't just swap a
single gear over - but if you swap the whole gearset over - then you don't
have a problem. Finding an Austin A70 gearbox in 2003 is the hard part -
most BN1 owners got one or two & stashed them under their houses 20 - 30
years ago - so most A70s lying forlorn in paddocks don't have A70 gearboxes
in them anymore!
But this method means you end up with a 3 speed box again - i.e. your old
BN1 box with different gears, on the BN1 mainshaft, with your BN1
overdrive - that has slightly 'different ratios' - but I honestly don't
think it either matters, or can be picked, on a road car. And because the
gearset worked in the sedan as a 4 speed (and probably hasn't been used for
20 - 30 years) - second gear got used as second gear - not as first - and
the sedan box has done a lot less work (as it got wrecked out about 20 years
ago - so the mileage is far lower!). And if ratios matter that much - use
the opportunity to get 4 rather than 3 with a BN2 box..
Maybe someone is now repairing BN1 cluster gears? I'm sure a specialist
could - but I think it would be big bucks...
You need to have a look and see what the problem is Alan, and whets in the
oil - then once we know what you are after - we can scour the respective
sheds and boxes to try to help find it for you.
Hope that helps
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 12:33 PM
Subject: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
> Hi All -
>
> Took the BN1 out for a run around town today and heard
> very sloppy klunky sounds in second gear only. I can
> drive in third and first with no noise... and it seems
> to make noise in 2nd whether I am under power or
> coasting. It'll drive ok in second but it just makes
> this ugly noise.
>
> What is the probable diagnosis and am I in deep doo
> doo?? Bearing? missing tooth?
>
> Can I keep driving the car in 1st and 3rd for a while
> without worries... or do I gotta fix this pronto?
>
> Any advice apprciated... I'm not interested in the
> Smitty thanks....
>
> Thanks in Advance!
>
> Alan
>
> '53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:31:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
Really, safety-wiring is not necessary. The knockoffs will tend to tighten
themselves as the wheel turns if they are installed on the correct side of the
car and tightened to start with (and the wheel doesn't roll backwards all the
time as in towing backwards). You can verify this by using the slip marks.
If you paint the marks on as soon as you install the knockoff, the marks will
move in a tightening direction after a few miles.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Awgertoo@aol.com
To: sbyers@ec.rr.com ; healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
In a message dated 4/27/2003 8:08:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
sbyers@ec.rr.com writes:
I recommend painting "slip marks" on the knockoff
and the adjacent wheel hub. These are just small marks, one on the
knockoff
and one on the hub that can be all but invisible to anyone but you. If
the
marks ever move in the wrong (loosening) direction relative to each
other,
then you will know it at a glance. It's easy to check these marks
whenever
you want.
How about a safety wire from one ear of the knock-off to a spoke--is this
ever done?
Michael
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From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:07:32 EDT
Subject: braking problem help needed
I am having a problem with the 3000. When I hit the brakes the car wants to
swerve slightly to the right. after the immediate swerve it then brakes
straight ahead. It is as if the right rear brake is contacting the drum
before the left side.
I tried readjusting both rear brakes, and I have bled both rear wheel
cylinders and front calipers. Still does it. Anyone else had a similar
problem? any ideas?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 21:36:41 -0500
Subject: Re: braking problem help needed
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:48:30 -0400
Subject: Re: braking problem help needed
Could be loose rear spring U bolts.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 10:07 PM
Subject: braking problem help needed
> Hi Listers:
>
> I am having a problem with the 3000. When I hit the brakes the car wants
to
> swerve slightly to the right. after the immediate swerve it then brakes
> straight ahead. It is as if the right rear brake is contacting the drum
> before the left side.
> I tried readjusting both rear brakes, and I have bled both rear wheel
> cylinders and front calipers. Still does it. Anyone else had a similar
> problem? any ideas?
> TIA
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 20:37:03 -0700
Subject: seat belts
She is also not pleased with the lack of seat belts. (smart lady) so
my real question is: do I install lap belts or a 3-point over the
shoulder belts.
I have both sets but am not sure how to position them. Will the bolts
through the floor with the big washers really do anything? It looks
like I could attach the 3-point to the top of the wheel well but that
would put it behind and about 8" below my shoulder.
Not sure if this would be a help or just act as a noose.
Any thoughts or do I just stick with the care free "hope I will get
flung out of the car and land safely" attitude?
Thanks for your ideas in advance,
Rob Westcott
Bellevue, WA
'55 BN1
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 21:03:06 -0700
Subject: Re: bj8 car covers
My wife's (SWMBO) Porsche came with a BH Motoring cover. They are no longer in
business.
However I purchased a cover for my E FHC form California car cover and I believe
they made them for BH motoring.
If I remember correctly I check with the PO of BH Motoring and this is what he
told me.
http://www.calcarcover.com/default.asp?flash=1
In any event I was very happy with the cover.
If you want you can ask them to NOT put their logo on the cover. They will also
customize it for things like mirrors or antennae.
Ron Rader
Regional Coordinator Los Angeles
JONAT Jaguar Owners North America Tour 2004
http://jonat.org/
1967 E FHC
1965 Healey
1994 XJ6
1989 Speedster (for sale)
Jim LeBlanc wrote:
> Years ago I ordered a cotton car cover from Beverly Hills Motoring
> Accessories. I have been ordering car covers from this company for over 15
> years and have found them all to be excellent. However at this time I am
> uncertain if they are still in business. They were on Rodeo drive and close
> to your location in Santa Monica.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 00:20:49 -0700
Subject: Re: bj8 car covers
Cannot recall from whom I bought the covers for the BJ8 and BN7. It was up
New England way it believe. But I would rec that you buy an extra yard of
material. I had a seamstress friend make the fender mirror pockets and she
installed them on the cover at just the right place for the mirrors.
Placement may not be right if you request the manufacturer to do the mirror
pockets.
My .02
Keith Pennell
> Jim:
>
> My wife's (SWMBO) Porsche came with a BH Motoring cover. They are no
longer in
> business.
> However I purchased a cover for my E FHC form California car cover and I
believe
> they made them for BH motoring.
> If I remember correctly I check with the PO of BH Motoring and this is
what he
> told me.
>
> http://www.calcarcover.com/default.asp?flash=1
>
> In any event I was very happy with the cover.
> If you want you can ask them to NOT put their logo on the cover. They will
also
> customize it for things like mirrors or antennae.
>
> Ron Rader
> Regional Coordinator Los Angeles
> JONAT Jaguar Owners North America Tour 2004
> http://jonat.org/
>
> 1967 E FHC
> 1965 Healey
> 1994 XJ6
> 1989 Speedster (for sale)
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From SJNNOCK at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 00:25:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
* * * * * * * * * *
Tech Talk by Norman Nock $30.00 + S H
A Collection on my tech. articles, that have been in various magazines along
with factory and Lucas bulletins about how things work. In easy to
understand writing. 221 pages Call me for more information at 209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:17:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenny Johnson" <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: <ynotink@qwest.net>; <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
> Which newspaper had the article on the Gumball 3000 Rally?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> >Reply-To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> >To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
> >CC: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Cannonball!
> >Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2003 15:51:57 -0600
> >
> >Hmmm! I detect a little misinformation here and of
> >course I have to throw in my
> >two bits.
> >
> >While the latter-day cannonball may indeed have
> >been inspired by the
> >aforementioned bit of Hollywood fluff, the movie
> >was itself inspired by the
> >events organized by Brock Yates and Car and Driver
> >magazine (I think) during the
> >1960s.
> >
> >The full name of the event, if I remember
> >correctly, was "The Cannonball Baker
> >Sea to Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dash".
> >
> >Cannonball Baker was of course one of the first to
> >drive a motor vehicle all the
> >way across the country. If I remember correctly it
> >was a Packard in 1904. I
> >can't remember how long it took. He started in
> >California after dipping his rear
> >wheels in the Pacific. When he reach the Atlantic
> >he finished by dipping the
> >front wheels in that ocean.
> >
> >A mind is a terrible thing to waste...
> >
> >Bill Lawrence
> >
> >Marge and/or Len wrote:
> >
> > > Don't know what prompted this thread and it may be coincidental that
my
> > > local newspaper reported the following this morning:
> > >
> > > "OFFICIALS CATCH GUMBALL DRIVERS. With speeds exceeding 100 mph and
at
> > > times passing cars from the shoulder, about 200 contestants in the
> >Gumball
> > > 3000 rally - a modern day "Cannonball Run" - raced their Ferraris,
> >Porsches
> > > and BMWs through Solano County on Thursday night.
> > >
> > > Solano Highway Patrol Officers arrested three entrants and cited four
> >others
> > > shortly after they left San Francisco's Fairmont Hotel en-route to
Miami
> >in
> > > the six day road race.....
> > >
> > > The racers will make stops in Las Vegas, Tucson, San Antonio and New
> > > Orleans, before finishing 3,000 miles away in Maimi Beach on
> >Tuesday.....".
> > >
> > > The article also noted that the cross-country trek, inspired by the
> >1970s
> > > Burt Reynolds film "Cannonball Run", costs about $12,000 to enter.
> > >
> > > Any takers on the list for next year?
> > >
> > > (The Other) Len
> > > Vacaville, CA, USA
> > > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
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From "Dr. Jan Freiwald" <j.free at freenet.de>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 07:23:56 +0200
Subject: 3000 large scale model
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:35:42 -0700
Subject: Re: AH 3000 Fuel Overflow
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt wilson" <mwilson18@cox.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 9:38 AM
Subject: AH 3000 Fuel Overflow
> Dear Forum-
> My fianci and friends are shocked with how well I am dealing with this
> weekend's tragedy... but I am not so sure. Long story short... I backed
my
> freshly detailed and waxed 1960 AH 3000 BT7 into the driveway. I figured
the
> car could use some fresh air and besides... I needed to make space in my
> garage for a home improvement project I have been toiling over for several
> weekends.
>
> The car was shinning so nice. Sitting so pretty. Not a worry in the
world.
> New leather seats. New steering wheel. Fresh wiring harness. New
correct
> hardtop installed and looking so good. Then from the calm of a warm
perfect
> Southern California day came extreme and silent horror. That's right...
> horror!!!!!!
>
> By this time the Healey had been sitting in the sun for about 4 hours when
I
> walked around my house, through the side gate, which would have me pass by
the
> car. To my shock and to my complete and utter disbelief I had a steady
stream
> of fuel running from my gas cap all down my rear shroud. Sadly... and I
do
> mean very very sadly... this must have been taking place for hours. The
paint
> was completely wrinkled as if it had been subjected to paint stripper. 12
> inches in length and 3 inches wide. That was the swath of destruction. I
did
> not collapse to my knees in agony. I did not scream four letter words
> beginning with "F". Rather a calm acceptance came over me. I knew this
> couldn't instantly be reversed... but... it can never happen again.
>
> When I removed the gas cap the fuel level was obviously running over the
brim.
> However with the cap removed the fuel level quickly dropped about 6-8
inches
> inside the filler neck. And then when I started the motor the fuel went
> completely out of sight into the tank.
>
> Anyway I tell all this because I am hoping there is something I can do in
the
> future to avoid this? Other than not filling it up too full? Is there a
> special filler neck that I can install that has an overflow drain on it?
Was
> this some result of the car's fuel heating up and expanding? I can have
the
> car's rear shroud area repainted but I could not live with myself if I let
> this happen again.
> Best Regards,
> Matt Wilson
> 1960 AH 3000 BT7
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 01:04:49 -0500
Subject: Re: braking problem help needed
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
> >
> > Hi Listers:
> >
> > I am having a problem with the 3000. When I hit the brakes the car
wants to
> > swerve slightly to the right. after the immediate swerve it then
brakes
> > straight ahead. It is as if the right rear brake is contacting the
drum
> > before the left side.
> > I tried readjusting both rear brakes, and I have bled both rear wheel
> > cylinders and front calipers. Still does it. Anyone else had a
similar
> > problem? any ideas?
> > TIA
> >
> > John O'Brien
> > '61 bugeye
> > '65 BJ8
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 08:44:43 +0100
Subject: FW: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
More useful advice here from Dave Ward ...
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ward [mailto:david@bighealey.ltd.uk]
Sent: 25 April 2003 17:56
To: Paul Negus
Subject: Re: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
Hello ,
The existing feed wire from the dynamo {generator} is not heavy enough to
take the extra output from the alternator, this is the reason that I had
wiring harnesses made up for this particular application.
Regards.
David.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus@iplbath.com>
To: "Healey List (E-mail)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
> Bernie
>
> You should have received instructions with this kit - in particular, the
wiring with an alternator is very different. It is also usual to change the
pulley size as an alternator turns at a higher speed compared to a dynamo.
(This gives the alternator one of its advantages - it can generate useful
power at idle).
>
> I suggest that you contact DW and ask them to send you a set.
>
> BTW, this doesn't sound on the face of it to be a very complete kit - it
would also be worth checking that you have all of the parts.
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:51:10 EDT
> From: Meemeb@aol.com
> Subject: Lucas Alternator Conversion for BJ8
>
> > I have recently purchased a Lucas Alternator Conversion kit from Dennis
> > Welch in order to convert from positive ground to negative in my 1966
BJ8
> > and it came with no installation instructions. I have searched the
> > archives and seen a lot of messages on conversion from generators to
> > alternators but didn't see anything specific to the Lucas Alternator.
Can
> > anyone help me with detailed and basic instructions on the installation
and
> > wiring changes necessary?
> > 1. This Lucas alternator did not come with a fan and pulley, so, I
removed
> > the fan and pulley from my original generator and transferred it to the
> > Lucas Alternator. Was this the correct thing to do?
> > 2. The metal adjusting link that controls the amount of tension on the
fan
> > belt was transferred from my original generator set up with some
difficulty
> > which has resulted in the belt being extremely tight with no give when
> > pressing on the belt as you would normally see when adjusting the fan
belt
> > on a generator set up. I cut out the groove on a spare metal adjusting
> > link and plan to switch this with the original due to anticipating the
need
> > to replace the fan belt on the side of the road some dark night and want
to
> > be able to do this with less difficulty. Should the belt tension be
this
> > tight? Should the belt have the same give as when adjusting it for a
> > generator set up?
> > 3. Can I just hook up the wiring leads from my new wiring harness to
the
> > Lucas alternator in the same manner as these wires were hooked up to my
> > generator? If not, what wiring changes will I need to make and what
guage
> > wiring will I need to use?
> > 4. Does the change to the Lucas Alternator require me to change the
wiring
> > in the regulator/control box on the firewall, and if so can someone give
me
> > specific and basic directions on how to do this?
> > 5. What other changes will I need to make to wiring connections and
other
> > things such as tachometer, coil, solid state electronic fuel pump, etc.
on
> > my BJ8 as a result of this switch from positive to negative ground?
> > 6. Will the generator light on my dash still function in the same
manner,
> > i.e. will it glow red if the battery is not being charged?
> > 7. When I get everything hooked up, what do I need to look out for when
> > starting my Healey for the first time after this conversion? How will I
> > know that I am not damaging some component or creating a molten mess of
my
> > new wiring harness and letting all the smoke out of my wiring somewhere?
> > Thanks in advance for any and all advice, and please keep it basic as I
am
> > a babe in the woods when it comes to electrical things in my Healey, but
I
> > still like to try to do these things myself.
> > Bernie
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From "Paul Negus" <Paul.Negus at iplbath.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 09:04:18 +0100
Subject: Subject: speedo gauge
The usual problem is simple - the lampholder pops out of the rear of the
speedo. There are two circular housings on the rear of the speedo casing, one
for high beam and one for generator. All that is required is to push it back
into place in its housing. If it is sloppy, you need to slightly splay out the
"petals" on the lampholder. (It will be obvious what I mean by "petals" when
you look at the holder).
Access is easy on the earlier cars - just look under the dash - but I'm not so
sure on BJ8s.
Regards
Paul
>Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 08:36:17 -0700
>From: "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble@intel.com>
>Subject: speedo gauge
>my high beam indicator has popped out of it hole. What is the correct method
>of removing the bezel and do I need to remove it from the dash?
>Fred
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From TimWardUK at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 05:18:43 EDT
Subject: Barry Bilbie
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From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 05:55:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Loosened hub caps
<<Also on most
Hot Rod and Cobra replica applications using Haliburtons.>>
Haliburtons? Must be on that Austin-Cheney seen in Iraq last week!!!
Halibrands are what your thinking of.
Happy Healeying,
Rick
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From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 20:10:59 +1000
Subject: Dunlop alum disc wheels
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From HealeyBJ7 at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 06:17:21 EDT
Subject: New Hampshire Austin Healey Meet
As of now, the web site is up and working. I'm not the "web guy" so I can't
tell you what the problem was but I know he worked very hard to get it going
again. As of yesterday noon it was fine and I checked again this AM and its
good.
Anyone with any interest in this event can get all the details at
ahnesummit.cjb.net
There is a history of past events, a write-up of planned activities, a
schedule, and a printable registration form -- everything you need to know.
I should tell you that we are almost full. The hotel has 70 rooms and there
are only 10 left. So if you are thinking of coming, make your plans ASAP.
If you need other info, respond directly to me and I'll get you an answer.
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From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 06:34:36 -0400
Subject: A Big Congrats
After something like 4 years, my nephew Chris Masucci has his BJ8 running.
He bought his car as a rusty basket case. It hasn't run in many years. He
now has a rolling chassis....all pretty and new! Another Healey has been
saved. How about sending him (he's on the list) a big congrats!!!
Congratulations Chris!!
Dave Masucci
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From "Randolph Cooper" <RANDOLPH.COOPER at netl.doe.gov>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 07:48:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
Actually, Baker was on a motorcycle for the first transcontinental trip and I
vaguely recall he rode an Indian. He may subsequently have driven a Packard
but that first trip was via bike.
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 04:50:36 -0700
Subject: alumalloy infomercial
Fred
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From bn1 at pacbell.net
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 05:27:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
> Cannonball Baker was of course one of the first to
> drive a motor vehicle all the
> way across the country. If I remember correctly it
> was a Packard in 1904. I
>
> Actually, Baker was on a motorcycle for the first transcontinental trip and I
>vaguely recall he rode an Indian. He may subsequently have driven a Packard
>but that first trip was via bike.
>
The story is here:
http://www.hdart.com/canbakstor.html
Bill Barnett
BN1 #663
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From "Scheuble, Fred" <fred.scheuble at intel.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 06:34:29 -0700
Subject: not healey but MGB
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 07:27:29 -0700
Subject: Seat Belts
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 07:57:42 -0700
Subject: wheels coming off
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From "James Shope" <healeymanjim at JoiMail.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 08:04:28 -0700
Subject: brake swerve
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 11:51:47 -0400
Subject: Shippers
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From Brian Mix <brianmix at cox.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 08:46:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Seat Belts
This is upsetting information.
What kind of speeds are you speaking of? Please state the source of your data.
BrianM
http://www.mixed-media.net/100Lemans/
07:27 AM 4/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Rob
> A seat belt bolted with a big washer is the same as the "hope to be thrown
>clear" attitude. Unless the belts are bolted through a solid structure like
>the frame or a set up that is made to go in the structure that allows the
>belts to be in the location that will fit your body, you may as well be not
>wearing them at all because they will just tear out in the event of an
>accident. Lots of old cars like that do not have good places to mount
>belts. It is up to you weather or not you put them in but unless they are
>mounted well you will only have a false sence of security anyways.
>Brian
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 11:56:48 EDT
Subject: Re: speedo angle drive
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 09:00:34 -0700
Subject: Re: braking problem help needed
I had exactly the same symptom on my pickup truck awhile back. It was the
left front brake hose. Externally it looked OK but internally it was
collapsed and
partially blocking the fluid flow, resulting in a slight delay in brake
application on that side, which caused a momentary swerve to the right. It's
a good possibility that it's your left front brake hose, not a rear brake,
that's causing the problem since both rear brakes are fed from a common
steel tubing connection.
Bob
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: <BANJOJOHN@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 7:07 PM
Subject: braking problem help needed
> Hi Listers:
>
> I am having a problem with the 3000. When I hit the brakes the car wants
to
> swerve slightly to the right. after the immediate swerve it then brakes
> straight ahead. It is as if the right rear brake is contacting the drum
> before the left side.
> I tried readjusting both rear brakes, and I have bled both rear wheel
> cylinders and front calipers. Still does it. Anyone else had a similar
> problem? any ideas?
> TIA
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
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From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 12:01:47 EDT
Subject: Re: braking problem help needed
<< Hi Listers:
I am having a problem with the 3000. When I hit the brakes the car wants to
swerve slightly to the right. after the immediate swerve it then brakes
straight ahead. It is as if the right rear brake is contacting the drum
before the left side.
I tried readjusting both rear brakes, and I have bled both rear wheel
cylinders and front calipers. Still does it. Anyone else had a similar
problem? any ideas? >>
This type of brake problem is usually a frozen brake caliper piston. Remove
the brake pads one at a time and watch the piston move, while someone applys
the brakes slowly. When you find the piston that is not moving or take a lot
more pressure to make it move there is your problem.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 11:21:24 -0500
Subject: Best insurance for my Healey
I would prefer a company whose reputation is one of good customer service
and quick and fair reimbursement in the event of a claim.
Brian Collins
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From BillHUCK at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 13:06:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Best insurance for my Healey
<< I've been out of the Healey circle for quite a few years; got very involved
in motorcycle touring. Now that I am back in the game, I would >>
American Security Insurance Co., 260 Interstate North Circle, Atlanta, GA
30339
reasonable coverage in St.Paul, MN $156/year
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 13:11:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat Belts
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 14:03:37 -0400
Subject: Front Oil Seal BJ8
If so, do I just release the motormounts? or must I also loosen the
transmission mounts.
Ted
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From "Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool" <cm18 at epix.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 15:32:17 -0400
Subject: Ignition
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:35:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Best insurance for my Healey
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:41:41 -0400
Subject: Jump seats.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III 1962
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:46:18 -0400
Subject: Carpets for Ira
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From ECP4UW at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:56:37 EDT
Subject: pertronic ignition source
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:00:18 -0500
Subject: Need spring for secondary hood catch
Brian
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 15:42:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Ignition
I'm not sure if there is ONE correct number. I went around & around with
another vendor on this. My distributor is #40495A. After a couple of
trys, the vendor had me send a template of the hole positions on the
point mounting plate. They sent a LU-149P12 that still wouldn't fit. I
kept it & modified the Pertronix base plate & the point mounting plate.
Everything fits & it works well now, good ignitor. It appears that
Pertronix and the vendors are a little foggy about what fits what on the
BN1/BN2 Healeys. you could try sending a template or just keep trying.
Dave Russell
BN2
Terence H. & Suzanne F. McCool wrote:
> Hi
> I have a 1955 100-M the dist number is 40422 and it was manufactured on
> 10/55. I would like to get a petronix ignition for it however the one I
> purcheased from Mxxx dosen't fit. Can someone provide me with the petonix
> number that will fit my 100.
> Thanks in advance
> Terry
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 18:16:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Ignition
> Terry,
>
> I'm not sure if there is ONE correct number. I went around &around with
> another vendor on this. My distributor is #40495A. After a couple of
> trys, the vendor had me send a template of the hole positions on the
> point mounting plate. They sent a LU-149P12 that still wouldn't fit. I
> kept it &modified the Pertronix base plate &the point mounting plate.
> Everything fits &it works well now, good ignitor. It appears that
> Pertronix and the vendors are a little foggy about what fits what on the
> BN1/BN2 Healeys. you could try sending a template or just keep trying.
>
> Dave Russell
>
Dave--
I went through the same thing about 18 months ago for my M-spec distributor
and even called Pertronix customer service, only to get a glorified
receptionist who talked as if she was reading from a script (apparently they
do not make a unit that will work in the M distributor, though I did not go
as far as you did).
I wound up purchasing a Mallory Unilite and when I left for Tahoe last summer
I carried the original distributor in the boot, with spare drive dog
attached. As luck would have it, the car ran perfectly all the way to CA and
back, only to die--literally at the front gate of the Pittsburgh Vintage
Grand Prix and I was ignominiously towed onto the show field by a golf cart
and parked right next to Terry!
I assumed it was a failed reader card for the Unilite and changed it out, but
could not get the car to fire and ultimately installed the Lucas unit and
made it home with no trouble the next day. It turns out that the reader was
okay--the ground wire had simply worn through!
Best--Michael Oritt
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 18:39:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
>From Cape-International:
Aluminum Rear Engine plate
>From AH Spares:
Pistons, bearings, lifters, rear main oil seal kit, etc.
>From Ebay seller in Italy:
3 Weber DCOE carbs.
Anything else I need I'll likely get from Moss.
Should have a 3000 engine in my car this summer.
Rick
San Diego
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 18:47:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Ignition
No financial interest but am a satisfied customer with the same type problem
that he solved. Also he is a regular advertiser in then Club Mags.
Happy Healeying
Larry wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 18:51:23 EDT
Subject: Re: pertronic ignition source
Good Luck
Larry Wysocki
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From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 18:07:31 -0500
Subject: any AH 3000 with Brookland screens out there
TIA
Brian Collins
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From "R. Poague" <rapoague at gte.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 16:13:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Best insurance for my Healey
Bob
BJ7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 9:21 AM
Subject: Best insurance for my Healey
> I've been out of the Healey circle for quite a few years; got very
involved
> in motorcycle touring. Now that I am back in the game, I would like to
> know what current thinking is on Insurance. I would like complete
coverage:
> liability, comprehensive, collision with a reasonable deductible.
>
> I would prefer a company whose reputation is one of good customer service
> and quick and fair reimbursement in the event of a claim.
>
> Brian Collins
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From Healeyolic <healey6 at optonline.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 19:32:19 -0400
Subject: Re: pertronic ignition source
Thinking of contacting him myself.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <ECP4UW@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 4:56 PM
Subject: pertronic ignition source
| Several weeks ago someone on the list told us of a good source for
| information and good pricing on pertronic ignitions for Healeys. My notes
| are not as good as they should be and I have allready deleted the e-mail..
| Would like to hear from you again.
| Thanks,
| Gene
| BN4
|
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 19:39:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 10:07:05 +1000
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
IMHO, nothing looks as good on a Healey engine as triple 45mm DCOE webers!
But then again - I'm probably biased!
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
Is your car LHD or RHD? Which weber manifold are you going to use?
Just curious.
Best regards
Chris
Triple webered BJ8
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
http://www.myaustinhealey.com
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <WilKo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
> I had three packages arrive today. Woo Hoo!
>
> From Cape-International:
> Aluminum Rear Engine plate
>
> From AH Spares:
> Pistons, bearings, lifters, rear main oil seal kit, etc.
>
> From Ebay seller in Italy:
> 3 Weber DCOE carbs.
>
> Anything else I need I'll likely get from Moss.
>
> Should have a 3000 engine in my car this summer.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From RAHosmer at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 20:18:27 EDT
Subject: Carburettors
I may go the triple 1-3/4" SU route, ala the old Rudd setup. Incidentally, in
that regard, I had occasion to contact SU-Midel in Australia, and received my
all-time best technical response. I had asked some very specific questions,
and got simple, direct answers to ALL of them.
Dick Hosmer
BT7L18556
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From Rob Westcott <westcotc at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 17:41:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Best insurance for my Healey
Rob Westcott
'55 BN1
'59 MK1
(425) 644-9590
Brian Collins wrote:
>
> I've been out of the Healey circle for quite a few years; got very involved
> in motorcycle touring. Now that I am back in the game, I would like to
> know what current thinking is on Insurance. I would like complete coverage:
> liability, comprehensive, collision with a reasonable deductible.
>
> I would prefer a company whose reputation is one of good customer service
> and quick and fair reimbursement in the event of a claim.
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "James R. Holekamp" <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 20:06:21 -0500
Subject: Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauge - A/D & J Type
http://tinyurl.com/505s
brgds, Jay
'64 TR4 CT38895LO
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 19:05:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
Bill Lawrence
Randolph Cooper wrote:
> Cannonball Baker was of course one of the first to
> drive a motor vehicle all the
> way across the country. If I remember correctly it
> was a Packard in 1904. I
>
> Actually, Baker was on a motorcycle for the first transcontinental trip and I
>vaguely recall he rode an Indian. He may subsequently have driven a Packard
>but that first trip was via bike.
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From "ynotink" <ynotink at qwest.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 19:16:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Cannonball!
Several prior crossings had been made in four wheeled vehicles including one by
a team of women. I think the very first was in a Winton, although my faulty
memory may have let me down again.
Maybe I need to talk to Mr. Google.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
bn1@pacbell.net wrote:
> Randolph Cooper wrote:
>
> > Cannonball Baker was of course one of the first to
> > drive a motor vehicle all the
> > way across the country. If I remember correctly it
> > was a Packard in 1904. I
> >
> > Actually, Baker was on a motorcycle for the first transcontinental trip and
>I vaguely recall he rode an Indian. He may subsequently have driven a Packard
>but that first trip was via bike.
> >
>
> The story is here:
>
> http://www.hdart.com/canbakstor.html
>
> Bill Barnett
> BN1 #663
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From "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 21:17:08 -0400
Subject: Re: alumalloy infomercial
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: Scheuble, Fred
To: 'Healeys (E-mail)
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 7:50 AM
Subject: alumalloy infomercial
Has anyone seen the infomercial called alumalloy applied using a propane
torch? comments?
Fred
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 18:46:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Ignition
Steve Norton over at Cape-International was the one
working with Pertronix to get EI units made for the
100. My early BN1 was one of the very first healeys
to get one of the positive-ground units they make for
early BN1s. I got tired of always getting BN2 points
and condensor from every supplier, all the time.
anyone with an early BN1 knows what I'm talking
about... anyway....
It's little more expensive to get a pertronix from him
than getting it in the US, but you'll be assured
you'll get the right unit for your car.
www.cape-international.com
Alan
--- Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 4/28/2003 5:45:33 PM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> rusd@velocitus.net writes:
>
> > Terry,
> >
> > I'm not sure if there is ONE correct number. I
> went around &around with
> > another vendor on this. My distributor is #40495A.
> After a couple of
> > trys, the vendor had me send a template of the
> hole positions on the
> > point mounting plate. They sent a LU-149P12 that
> still wouldn't fit. I
> > kept it &modified the Pertronix base plate &the
> point mounting plate.
> > Everything fits &it works well now, good ignitor.
> It appears that
> > Pertronix and the vendors are a little foggy about
> what fits what on the
> > BN1/BN2 Healeys. you could try sending a template
> or just keep trying.
> >
> > Dave Russell
> >
>
> Dave--
>
> I went through the same thing about 18 months ago
> for my M-spec distributor
> and even called Pertronix customer service, only to
> get a glorified
> receptionist who talked as if she was reading from a
> script (apparently they
> do not make a unit that will work in the M
> distributor, though I did not go
> as far as you did).
>
> I wound up purchasing a Mallory Unilite and when I
> left for Tahoe last summer
> I carried the original distributor in the boot, with
> spare drive dog
> attached. As luck would have it, the car ran
> perfectly all the way to CA and
> back, only to die--literally at the front gate of
> the Pittsburgh Vintage
> Grand Prix and I was ignominiously towed onto the
> show field by a golf cart
> and parked right next to Terry!
>
> I assumed it was a failed reader card for the
> Unilite and changed it out, but
> could not get the car to fire and ultimately
> installed the Lucas unit and
> made it home with no trouble the next day. It turns
> out that the reader was
> okay--the ground wire had simply worn through!
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 19:07:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Carburettors
As long as your car is over 20 years old, you can
pretty much do what the heck you like in California.
It's only illegal if you have to go through smog
check, which for Healeys you don't have to anymore.
I've dealt with SU Midel as well and they are up front
& straight forward. Classic OZ-pitality.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- RAHosmer@aol.com wrote:
> List:
> I just visited a couple of Weber sites and on one
> found a notice that all of
> their carbs were illegal in California, except on
> racing cars that would
> NEVER be driven on the highway. When did this come
> about, or is it bogus
> info? Actually, Webers are WAY too much for a
> street driver, but I do not
> like being told I cannot do something by Big
> Brother.
>
> I may go the triple 1-3/4" SU route, ala the old
> Rudd setup. Incidentally, in
> that regard, I had occasion to contact SU-Midel in
> Australia, and received my
> all-time best technical response. I had asked some
> very specific questions,
> and got simple, direct answers to ALL of them.
>
> Dick Hosmer
> BT7L18556
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From Brian Burke <wharf-st at shaw.ca>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 21:42:11 -0700
Subject: Seat Belts
P.S. You might want to check out the vintage racing clubs or any Healey
racers, is there any one out there who fits in this catagory?
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 22:28:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> IMHO, nothing looks as good on a Healey engine as triple 45mm DCOE webers!
>
> But then again - I'm probably biased!
>
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
Is your car LHD or RHD? Which weber manifold are you going to use?
Just curious.
Best regards
Chris
Triple webered BJ8
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 01:40:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
<< Hi Chris,
I'm not denying that triple DCOE's are cool...and great job on your car.
Very clean. How does six Mikuni HSR42's sound? Smooth bore flat slides, with
accelerator pumps!!!
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8 >>
After hearing no good words about Webers for road use, and me wanting to have
that look/sound/performance I have found a cheap set of 40DCOM. 40mm
(~34-36mm venturi) and accelerator pumps. I'm thinking that should make a
good carb for the street, eh?
They look the same, if not I've also got a set of 40DCOE. Now if I can get a
freakin' manifold I may be able to run these things.
Rick
San Diego
http://members.aol.com/wilko/engine.html
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From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 15:42:17 +1000
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
I should tell you all that the triple Webers on Chris Dimmock's car look great
and help make the car really perform.
Now if I could afford the triple dual throat SUs that were originally fitted to
the BN3 by the DHMC I wouldn't hesitate to fit them. But at around Aus$2,000
each it's a little steep.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Wilkinson [mailto:wilkinson@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 3:29 PM
To: Chris Dimmock
Cc: To Healey List
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
Hi Chris,
I'm not denying that triple DCOE's are cool...and great job on your car.
Very clean. How does six Mikuni HSR42's sound? Smooth bore flat slides, with
accelerator pumps!!!
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> IMHO, nothing looks as good on a Healey engine as triple 45mm DCOE webers!
>
> But then again - I'm probably biased!
>
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/austin_healey_3000_pics_enginebay.html
Is your car LHD or RHD? Which weber manifold are you going to use?
Just curious.
Best regards
Chris
Triple webered BJ8
**********************************************************************
This message is intended for the addressee named and may contain
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 23:07:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Carburettors
Alan: Be careful. California Healeys are not totally free and clear of
SMOG checks. California Health and Safety Code, Section 44011 states that
all motor vehicles powered by internal combustion engines shall obtain a
certificate of compliance or noncompliance, except for all of the following:
beginning January 1, 2003, any motor vehicle that is 30 (thirty) or more
model-years old and any motor vehicle four or less model-years old.
HOWEVER, reading further in the code section one finds that any vehicle
excepted by this paragraph shall be subject to testing and certification if
any of the following apply: the department determines through remote
sensing activities OR OTHER MEANS (??? emphasis mine) that there is a
substantial probability that the vehicle would fail a smog check test - or -
the vehicle has been selected for out-of-cycle testing. I didn't look it
up, but I think they can randomly select 2 percent of registered vehicles
for this.
Additional note on Senator Florez's SB 708 - He has amended his bill. The
'45 years' has been eliminated and he has added a provision to expand the
repair assistance program to include the owner of a motor vehicle who was
issued a notice to correct for an alleged violation of unlawful motor
vehicle exhaust discharge.
Moral of the story: Stay away from remote sensing devices and don't let
your Healey emit copious amounts of tailpipe smoke.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: <RAHosmer@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: Carburettors
> Dick -
>
> As long as your car is over 20 years old, you can
> pretty much do what the heck you like in California.
> It's only illegal if you have to go through smog
> check, which for Healeys you don't have to anymore.
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From "Greg Wilkinson" <wilkinson at earthlink.net>
From: Jon McLeroy <jfm@ballistic.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 06:29:41 -0700
Subject: RE: Engine Rebuil Parts Source
Best,
Greg
67 BJ8
> -----Original Message-----
>
> After hearing no good words about Webers for road use, and me
> wanting to have
> that look/sound/performance I have found a cheap set of 40DCOM. 40mm
> (~34-36mm venturi) and accelerator pumps. I'm thinking that should make a
> good carb for the street, eh?
> They look the same, if not I've also got a set of 40DCOE. Now if
> I can get a
> freakin' manifold I may be able to run these things.
>
> Rick
> San Diego
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From "Bob Johnson" <robert.w.johnson at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 09:19:39 -0400
Subject: Best insurance for my Healey
> I've been out of the Healey circle for quite a few years; got very
involved
> in motorcycle touring. Now that I am back in the game, I would like to
> know what current thinking is on Insurance. I would like complete
coverage:
> liability, comprehensive, collision with a reasonable deductible.
>
> I would prefer a company whose reputation is one of good customer service
> and quick and fair reimbursement in the event of a claim.
>
> Brian Collins
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 13:18:14 -0400
Subject: 1040 Brochure Scan Needed
Could someone please send me a good, black & white only, scan (jpeg, please,
maybe something like 100-200k file size) of the cover of one of the 1040
series sales brochures? That's the brochure for the 100 with a photo of
red BN1 in a countryside setting on the cover.
(Yes, I own some examples of this brochure myself, but my literatrure
collection is currently in shipment and I need this within the next couple
of days.)
Please e-mail the scan to editor@healey.org
Thanks in advance!
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
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From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 09:49:34 -0400
Subject: RE:RE:Shipping
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From John Harper <AH at jharper.demon.co.uk>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 08:15:10 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 gear box Kaputt?? Help
The ratio of the gears in an A70 are the same as those in a 100. I
believe that Chris was thinking of the following.
The problem is that there were early and later gear angles. These cannot
be mixed and apply to the first motion shaft, laygear and "one from top"
gear.
These are interchangeable as sets as Chris says and it would appear that
the later 'so called improved' gears were not that much of an
improvement after all.
So, as long as one takes note of the above the gears from an A70
Hereford or later A90 Atlantic can be fitted into the 100 box.
However a word of caution, with early A90 and A70 Hampshire gearboxes.
These had a shorter first motion shaft which ran in a bearing in an
early type flywheel rather than in the end of the crankshaft.
All the best
>
>The other alternative that many of us here in Australia have resorted
to is >to use a gearset from another Austin sedan of the era - typically
Austin >A70. The ratios
Please see above
>are 'different' - which means that you can't just swap a
>single gear over - but if you swap the whole gearset over - then you
don't >have a problem. Finding an Austin A70 gearbox in 2003 is the hard
part - >most BN1 owners got one or two & stashed them under their houses
20 - 30 >years ago - so most A70s lying forlorn in paddocks don't have
A70 gearboxes >in them anymore!
>
All the best
--
John Harper
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 10:25:06 -0400
Subject: Seat belts.
http://www.andoauto.com/seat_belts.htm
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
BT7III
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From "Golding, Frank" <frank.golding at plantronics.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 13:35:24 -0700
Subject: Hub Extensions
Can't get the Knock Offs to thread onto my new rear hub extensions.
When starting my restoration I found that I had two spun wheels, after
checking the spline on the hub extensions I decided to replace all 4 hub
extensions & Knock Offs. I purchased new hub extensions and Knock-Offs (12
TPI) from Ah Spares a few months back.
Both left & right knock-offs screw onto the respective front hub extensions
with no problem. Yet the Knock offs will not screw onto the new rear
extensions. I checked the TPI on the rear hub extensions, and they are both
12 threads per inch. Since both right and both left Knock offs will screw
onto the front extensions, I must say the knock-offs are good. I also used
my wire wheel to clean up the threads on one of the rear extensions,
thinking that might help, but to no avail.
Has any-one run into this problem before, and have any suggestions, short of
returning the extensions to England?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
Running chassis on track for May 18th 2003!
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From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:28:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Seat Belts
To mount the restraint harness on my BN1 racer, I welded a 1/4" angle to
the spring bracket on the rear outrigger, The spring bolt goes through this
also. On the other side the lap belt is bolted directly to the frame, right
next to the driveshaft tunnel. The shoulder straps are attached just below
the aluminum cockpit trim with as large a backing plate I could fit.
(approximately 2" x 10").
Simpson recommends mounting the shoulder harness four inches below the
driver's shoulders. This is for a five point harness, not a standard
shoulder belt you would find on a street car.
Personally I don't feel safe in street Healeys with the shoulder strap
mounted to the factory fastening location. Its too low. My preference is
lap belt only.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Burke" <wharf-st@shaw.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 12:42 AM
Subject: Seat Belts
> P.S. You might want to check out the vintage racing clubs or any Healey
> racers, is there any one out there who fits in this catagory?
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:41:55 -0400
Subject: RE: Hub Extensions
Yes we have run into the same problem. I our case the threads in the
knock offs for one side were not finish cut.
I suspect that "quality control" needs a wake up call!!
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Golding, Frank
Sent: 29-Apr-03 4:35 PM
To: List Healeys
Subject: Hub Extensions
List,
Can't get the Knock Offs to thread onto my new rear hub extensions.
When starting my restoration I found that I had two spun wheels, after
checking the spline on the hub extensions I decided to replace all 4 hub
extensions & Knock Offs. I purchased new hub extensions and Knock-Offs
(12
TPI) from Ah Spares a few months back.
Both left & right knock-offs screw onto the respective front hub
extensions
with no problem. Yet the Knock offs will not screw onto the new rear
extensions. I checked the TPI on the rear hub extensions, and they are
both
12 threads per inch. Since both right and both left Knock offs will
screw
onto the front extensions, I must say the knock-offs are good. I also
used
my wire wheel to clean up the threads on one of the rear extensions,
thinking that might help, but to no avail.
Has any-one run into this problem before, and have any suggestions,
short of
returning the extensions to England?
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Frank Golding
1960 BN7 # 10610
Running chassis on track for May 18th 2003!
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:14:18 -0500
Subject: BJ7 DASHBOARD
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 18:29:52 EDT
Subject: Shut-off switch knob
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:30:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
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From "Michael Salter" <msalter at precisionsportscar.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 19:23:28 -0400
Subject: RE: Shut-off switch knob
The best way to get the knob off is to crush it in a bench vice ;-). Of
course you will need a new switch after that..
The knob is cast onto the shaft. That is why there is such a large hole
in the mounting bracket. If you open the switch up you can get
everything off the shaft from the inside but the knob stays on the
shaft.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: 29-Apr-03 6:30 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Shut-off switch knob
I am attempting to remove the plastic "Off" knob from the shaft of the
shut-off switch that lives in the boot, but it does not seem very
cooperative. I don't see any setscrew or anything--is it pressed onto
the
shaft?
Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From Dave & Marlene <rusd at velocitus.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:27:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Shut-off switch knob
if it is a standard original equipment type switch, the knob & the shaft
are one piece. It is either pressed on or molded on. At the bottom of
the switch is a tiny C clip which must be removed to release the shaft &
knob. Don't lose the clip.
Dave Russell
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I am attempting to remove the plastic "Off" knob from the shaft of
> the shut-off switch that lives in the boot, but it does not seem very
> cooperative. I don't see any setscrew or anything--is it pressed
> onto the shaft?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
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From "Jeff Crisconi" <karenjef at earthnet.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 17:21:14 -0600
Subject: FOR SALE - 1956 Austin-Healey Hundred BN-2
Colorado Red w/ Black Interior
Newly rebuilt engine (< 500mi.), carburetters, fuel system, exhaust,
suspension, hubs, brakes, linkages and electricals
Remote oil cooler and electric fan (it gets hot in Colorado)
Many spares and original parts
I'm asking for $29,500.00 or best offer. If interested and for additional
photos please contact:
Jeff Crisconi
(303) 776-7325
karenjef@earthnet.net
Included Parts:
Original oil filter
Original shock absorbers
Original air cleaners
4- 60 spoke chrome wire wheels
1- 48 spoke painted wire wheel (spare)
1- New alloy wheel and tire (spare)
Leather hold-down strap and spare tire securing iron
Lucas fog light set
Heavy front sway bar
Witworth tool set
SU carburetter tool kit
ColorTune fuel mixture adjustment kit
Extra "Standard" carburetter needles (and other parts)
Scissor jack
Thor hammer for wheels
Tire irons
Spare inner tube and patch kit
Custom mixed PPG paint for touchups
Many extra Witworth fasteners and miscellaneous spare parts
Newly attended systems and parts:
Exterior and Interior:
New Robbins SunFast cloth top
New Robbins SunFast tonneau cover
New Side curtains
New Armacord trunk lining
New weather seals
New windshield and gaskets
Electrical System:
New batteries and cabling
New Halogen headlights, parking lights and tail lights
New coil, plugs, plug wires, distributor, rotor, points and condenser
NOS ammeter
NOS trafficator
*Entire electrical system has been seen to, there are no "lost wires" or "bad
connectors"*
Brakes, Suspension and Wheels:
New brake master cylinder and linkage
New wheel bearings
All new front and rear suspension bushings
New Ball joints
Rebuilt kingpins
Rebuilt brakes
New front Coil springs
New rear Leaf springs
New front and rear Bilstein tube shock conversion (can be reverted to
original)
5- New "Mini-Lite" style alloy wheels (also have wire wheels)
5- New Michelin XZX Tires
Fuel System (entirely new):
New fuel tank
New fuel filter
New SU fuel pump
All new fuel line
New fuel distribution pipe
Newly rebuilt SU "H" Type Carburetters
Mechanicals:
New clutch linkage
New throttle linkage
New choke cable and linkage
Spin on oil filter conversion
Remote oil cooler
SPAL electric radiator fan
Flushed and cleaned radiator
New radiator cap
New thermostat
Engine:
Newly rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles on it
All new bearings
New tappets
Honed cylinders
New hardened head studs, washers and nuts
New high compression head gasket
All new gaskets and seals
New water pump
New timing belt and tensioner
New accessory belts
All new hoses
Exhaust System:
All new exhaust hangers
New muffler
*The exhaust system has been completely re-assembled and re-hung into its'
proper position*
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Healey.jpg]
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From "Mick VanderPloeg" <MVANDERPLOEG at nc.rr.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 20:04:27 -0400
Subject: Ignition switch/starter pushbutton
Before I go through this again with another vendor, is anyone aware of someone
that sells these parts correct for a '57? While we're at it, does anyone
offer the instrument light slide switch that mounts to the bottom of the dash
with screw terminals?
Thanks,
Mick Vander Ploeg
'57 BN4 (back from body/frame/suspension work & getting reassembled)
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 20:06:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Jump seats.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
1-207-236-3632
Bt7III
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From "Reid Trummel" <ah_magazine at hotmail.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 21:01:41 -0400
Subject: Re: 1040 Brochure Scan Needed
Reid
Reid Trummel
Editor, Austin-Healey Magazine
http://www.healey.org
_________________________________________________________________
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From Blue One Hundred <international_investor at yahoo.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 18:28:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Carburettors
If I understand the legislation correctly, your car
cannot fail a smog test unless it is required to pass
a smog test to start with.
Since healeys are grandfathered out of the smog test
requirement, remote sensing is therefore irrelevant.
This was my understanding of the law. If the remote
sensor sees your healey, the agent will ignore it
because of the age of your car. So far I have not
heard of anyone having to smog test a classic in Cali
in a long time (of course I live in Hong Kong these
days).
I think the only exception to this may be if your car
satisfies the "gross polluter" designation, which will
only happen if there is a mechanical problem with your
car like a burnt valve or scored cylinder. Otherwise
there shouldn't be a problem.
cheers,
Alan
--- Marge and/or Len <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> CALIFORNIA OWNERS TAKE NOTE
>
> Alan: Be careful. California Healeys are not
> totally free and clear of
> SMOG checks. California Health and Safety Code,
> Section 44011 states that
> all motor vehicles powered by internal combustion
> engines shall obtain a
> certificate of compliance or noncompliance, except
> for all of the following:
> beginning January 1, 2003, any motor vehicle that is
> 30 (thirty) or more
> model-years old and any motor vehicle four or less
> model-years old.
> HOWEVER, reading further in the code section one
> finds that any vehicle
> excepted by this paragraph shall be subject to
> testing and certification if
> any of the following apply: the department
> determines through remote
> sensing activities OR OTHER MEANS (??? emphasis
> mine) that there is a
> substantial probability that the vehicle would fail
> a smog check test - or -
> the vehicle has been selected for out-of-cycle
> testing. I didn't look it
> up, but I think they can randomly select 2 percent
> of registered vehicles
> for this.
>
> Additional note on Senator Florez's SB 708 - He has
> amended his bill. The
> '45 years' has been eliminated and he has added a
> provision to expand the
> repair assistance program to include the owner of a
> motor vehicle who was
> issued a notice to correct for an alleged violation
> of unlawful motor
> vehicle exhaust discharge.
>
> Moral of the story: Stay away from remote sensing
> devices and don't let
> your Healey emit copious amounts of tailpipe smoke.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred"
> <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: <RAHosmer@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 7:07 PM
> Subject: Re: Carburettors
>
>
> > Dick -
> >
> > As long as your car is over 20 years old, you can
> > pretty much do what the heck you like in
> California.
> > It's only illegal if you have to go through smog
> > check, which for Healeys you don't have to
> anymore.
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From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 22:14:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Ignition switch/starter pushbutton
These show up new on ebay every couple weeks or so. They go for around $40
as I recall.
Keith Pennell
>While we're at it, does anyone
> offer the instrument light slide switch that mounts to the bottom of the
dash
> with screw terminals?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mick Vander Ploeg
> '57 BN4 (back from body/frame/suspension work & getting reassembled)
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From LarryRPH at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 22:58:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Hub Extensions
Make sure that everything is perfect with this part of your vehicle. I too
had a wheel loosen up by spinning worn splines . That was part of the
reason I bought a whole new set of hubs, splines, and knock-offs The
spinning made such a loud noise that it was easy to tell something was wrong.
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
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From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 13:49:20 +1000
Subject: test
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 21:49:22 -0700
Subject: Re: test
I was getting ready to resend my Carburettors message that I had sent at
around 11:00 PM last night as it had not shown up in my Inbox this morning.
It finally arrived at 11:10 AM this morning at the same time that another
lister responded to it. It got delayed coming to me somewhere out there in
cyberspace.
(The Other) Len
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: test
> Test - I've sent 2 posts yesterday but haven't seen them??
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From michael e gougeon <kaynmike.bham at juno.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 21:49:07 -0700
Subject: Fried 100-4
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From "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at pacbell.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 22:14:34 -0700
Subject: Re: test
> I've sent 2 posts yesterday but haven't seen them??
Did you send Mark a donation?
;)
bs
*****************************************************
Bob Spidell bspidell@pacbell.net
(home)
San Jose, CA. robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
*****************************************************
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 22:28:48 -0700
Subject: Car Covers
Listers:
it seems to me some one locally was interested inn a cover.
ca car covers is having an event a their shop pin Chats worth on sunday.
no interest.
Ron R
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From "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 22:41:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Carburettors
Alan: I'm sure that the bottom line is going to be who interprets the Code
and how.
When it says, "Any motor vehicle excepted by this paragraph shall be subject
to testing..." under certain conditions, those who want to remove all older
vehicles from the road will push to apply the code to all vehicles. I'm
sure that you will agree that there are people out there that want to see
all fossil fuel powered vehicles destroyed.
When the Code says, "...if any of the following apply: (i) The department
determines through remote sensing activities or other means that there is
substantial probability that the vehicle...would fail...a smog check
test...", how much imagination does it take to consider that an
anti-automobile bureaucrat or eco-fanatic will read that word-for-word and
dream up ways to apply it to ALL (older) vehicles?
I have written several letters to those who should know asking what is meant
by 'or other means'. None have provided an answer, not even Senator
Johannessen who authored what is now in the Code. One Legislator tried to
pass a bill that would have failed a vehicle if it was dripping oil. Oops!!
I'm not a lawyer but my reading of this section of the Code says it is
addresssing exemptions to the exemptions. I am not sure that RSDs are in
use as tests being done in southern California a few years ago had accuracy
problems. But just because they are not in widespread use today does not
mean that they won't be perfected and deployed in the future.
I am sure that you are correct for now that our cars are not being subjected
to SMOG checks or RSDs. All I can do is advise every California vehicle
owner to remain aware of what the legislature, BAR, and CARB are up to and
don't let them slip anything by us.
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
----- Original Message -----
From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Carburettors
> Len -
>
> If I understand the legislation correctly, your car
> cannot fail a smog test unless it is required to pass
> a smog test to start with.
>
> Since healeys are grandfathered out of the smog test
> requirement, remote sensing is therefore irrelevant.
> This was my understanding of the law. If the remote
> sensor sees your healey, the agent will ignore it
> because of the age of your car. So far I have not
> heard of anyone having to smog test a classic in Cali
> in a long time (of course I live in Hong Kong these
> days).
>
> I think the only exception to this may be if your car
> satisfies the "gross polluter" designation, which will
> only happen if there is a mechanical problem with your
> car like a burnt valve or scored cylinder. Otherwise
> there shouldn't be a problem.
>
> cheers,
>
> Alan
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 23:07:12 -0700
Subject: California Car covers
Listers:
it seems to me that someone locally was interested in a car cover.
California Car covers is having an event a their shop in Chatsworth on Sunday.
no interest. etc.
Ron R
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 23:19:30 -0700
Subject: Re: test
Marge and/or Len wrote:
> Chris: Strange things are happening. This message from you got through.
> Received at 8:44 PM. The last, and only, recent message from you was your
> Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source which I received yesterday at 5:05 PM.
>
> I was getting ready to resend my Carburettors message that I had sent at
> around 11:00 PM last night as it had not shown up in my Inbox this morning.
> It finally arrived at 11:10 AM this morning at the same time that another
> lister responded to it. It got delayed coming to me somewhere out there in
> cyberspace.
>
> (The Other) Len
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 8:49 PM
> Subject: test
>
> > Test - I've sent 2 posts yesterday but haven't seen them??
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Chris Masucci" <sooch at houston.rr.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 07:30:42 -0500
Subject: Re: test
Chris
BJ8...running
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: test
> Len:
> your message timed stamped 9.49 PM arrived at my desk at 11.15 PM PDT.
> this was sent at 11.16 PDT.
> Ron R
>
> Marge and/or Len wrote:
>
> > Chris: Strange things are happening. This message from you got
through.
> > Received at 8:44 PM. The last, and only, recent message from you was
your
> > Re: Engine Rebuil Parts Source which I received yesterday at 5:05 PM.
> >
> > I was getting ready to resend my Carburettors message that I had sent at
> > around 11:00 PM last night as it had not shown up in my Inbox this
morning.
> > It finally arrived at 11:10 AM this morning at the same time that
another
> > lister responded to it. It got delayed coming to me somewhere out there
in
> > cyberspace.
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
> > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 8:49 PM
> > Subject: test
> >
> > > Test - I've sent 2 posts yesterday but haven't seen them??
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 07:51:37 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ7 DASHBOARD
HoYo
----- Original Message -----
From: "DH" <donham1@cox.net>
To: "Thomas L. Blaskovics" <u2347@mail.wvnet.edu>; "B Moseley"
<Moseley1@cox.net>
Cc: "healeys@auto" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:14 PM
Subject: BJ7 DASHBOARD
> Hi Tom, I have a ? for you. I was at a British Car show over the
weekend
> and competed with a 63 Bj7 that had a walnut vaneer section inside the
> instrument panel moulding. Have you seen this or have you heard of a
option
> beening sold like this?
> Thanks
> Don Hambrick
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 10:26:35 EDT
Subject: CONCLAVE REGISTRATION INCREASES TOMORROW
Go to our website: <A HREF="www.caitalhealeys.org">www.caitalhealeys.org</A>
or contact mapper500@starpower.net
to sign up now before the June rush!
Seeya there--Michael Oritt
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 11:06:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Ignition switch/starter pushbutton
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From HLYDOC at aol.com
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 11:12:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Fried 100-4
The welding is the last option, and the cranks are hard to find. We do have a
good used one if you are looking.
**************************
Please visit our new updated web site we have added some new features. You
can now post photos of your British car or activity , also we have added a
message board for your convience as well as several other changes.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
IF there are attached files and you are unable to open please use.
<A HREF="http://www.stuffit.com/expander/";>StuffIt Expander: Unzip zip,
access StuffIt filb&</A>
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Turney, John" <John.Turney at shawgrp.com>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 10:40:15 -0700
Subject: Subject: Re: Carburettors
John, '57 BN4 (With non-standard carbs)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Len -
If I understand the legislation correctly, your car
cannot fail a smog test unless it is required to pass
a smog test to start with.
Since healeys are grandfathered out of the smog test
requirement, remote sensing is therefore irrelevant. ..."
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/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe at earthlink.net>
From: "Brian Collins" <bc1@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 14:15:24 -0400
Subject: Indianapolis 500
I have a set of 4 tickets, together, available to the Indianapolis 500, May
25, 2003. The seats are on the start/finish line, across from the pits, the
finish podium, the "500 Queens", the scoring tower, the celebrities and the
festivities.
I have owned these seats for 35 years, obviously I like them. I also own
another 2 sets of 2 seats, a few rows closer to the fence and track surface.
I am selling only the set of 4. Specifically, the seats are in the Paddock,
Section 8, Row JJ, seats 1,2,3 and 4.
The face value of one ticket is $85.00 and therefore the set is valued at
$340.00. All I am looking for is the face value.
I can sell the tickets at the track for a good deal more than face value but I
am not sure that I will be attending this year. I also thought someone on the
list might be interested.
If you have an interest, contact me off list.
Fred
"63 BJ7
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From "HoYo" <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 13:28:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Carburettors
> I'm on my soap box so this is rather long. I apologize to those who may
be
> offended. If you're not from California, you don't have to read it. If
you
> are from New York, or any other state that follows California's lead,
maybe
> you should.
>
> Alan: I'm sure that the bottom line is going to be who interprets the
Code
> and how.
>
> When it says, "Any motor vehicle excepted by this paragraph shall be
subject
> to testing..." under certain conditions, those who want to remove all
older
> vehicles from the road will push to apply the code to all vehicles. I'm
> sure that you will agree that there are people out there that want to see
> all fossil fuel powered vehicles destroyed.
>
> When the Code says, "...if any of the following apply: (i) The
department
> determines through remote sensing activities or other means that there is
> substantial probability that the vehicle...would fail...a smog check
> test...", how much imagination does it take to consider that an
> anti-automobile bureaucrat or eco-fanatic will read that word-for-word and
> dream up ways to apply it to ALL (older) vehicles?
>
> I have written several letters to those who should know asking what is
meant
> by 'or other means'. None have provided an answer, not even Senator
> Johannessen who authored what is now in the Code. One Legislator tried to
> pass a bill that would have failed a vehicle if it was dripping oil.
Oops!!
>
> I'm not a lawyer but my reading of this section of the Code says it is
> addresssing exemptions to the exemptions. I am not sure that RSDs are in
> use as tests being done in southern California a few years ago had
accuracy
> problems. But just because they are not in widespread use today does not
> mean that they won't be perfected and deployed in the future.
>
> I am sure that you are correct for now that our cars are not being
subjected
> to SMOG checks or RSDs. All I can do is advise every California vehicle
> owner to remain aware of what the legislature, BAR, and CARB are up to and
> don't let them slip anything by us.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, BJ8L39031
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Blue One Hundred" <international_investor@yahoo.com>
> To: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>; "Healeys Mailing
List"
> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 6:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Carburettors
>
>
> > Len -
> >
> > If I understand the legislation correctly, your car
> > cannot fail a smog test unless it is required to pass
> > a smog test to start with.
> >
> > Since healeys are grandfathered out of the smog test
> > requirement, remote sensing is therefore irrelevant.
> > This was my understanding of the law. If the remote
> > sensor sees your healey, the agent will ignore it
> > because of the age of your car. So far I have not
> > heard of anyone having to smog test a classic in Cali
> > in a long time (of course I live in Hong Kong these
> > days).
> >
> > I think the only exception to this may be if your car
> > satisfies the "gross polluter" designation, which will
> > only happen if there is a mechanical problem with your
> > car like a burnt valve or scored cylinder. Otherwise
> > there shouldn't be a problem.
> >
> > cheers,
> >
> > Alan
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From "Brian Collins" <bc1 at sbcglobal.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 13:39:40 -0500
Subject: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey, now
I realized yesterday while looking for his address that I did not have a
home address for him anywhere to send his $2000, only his work address. and
so was wondering how to proceed when he called me and told me that he will
not even cash the deposit if I send it back to him so to just keep it
because he would be filing an injunction soon.
Can this guy do this? He has said he will happily spend $5000 if he needs
to to get the car from me.
Just when I thought My life was getting a bit less complicated. Jeez
Brian Collins.
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From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 21:21:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Jump seats.
Thanks, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: James Lea <clocks@midcoast.com>
To: Bill Rister <brister@hal-pc.org>
Cc: List Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: Jump seats.
> Thanks Bill. I tried the Velcro today and it seems to work fine. JL
>
> James Lea Clockmaker
> 2 West St. PO Box 25
> Rockport Maine 04856
> 1-207-236-3632
> Bt7III
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From "DH" <donham1 at cox.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 14:22:34 -0500
Subject: BJ7 Dashboard
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
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/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/healeys
From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 15:30:09 EDT
Subject: Re: CONCLAVE REGISTRATION INCREASES TOMORROW
> Could there be a p missing in your url? Has someone taken your p ?
> Has someone taken two p's from you?
>
>
Mike and all--
Well that's certainly very strange as it came up with the "p" in the link
when I typed it earler--but for those who may be short a "p", here it is
again:
<A HREF="www.capitalhealeys/org">www.capitalhealeys/org</A>
Or you can follow this link, bypass the club webpage and go directly to the
Conclave page:
<A
HREF="http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html";>http://www.capitalhealeys.org/Conclave%202003/conclave2003.html</A>
Either way--sign up today and I'll see you in DC. And for all those who may
remember the question, I WILL be having Eskimo Pi's at the car show....
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 15:44:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey,
> I realized yesterday while looking for his address that I did not have a
> home address for him anywhere to send his $2000, only his work address.
> and
> so was wondering how to proceed when he called me and told me that he will
> not even cash the deposit if I send it back to him so to just keep it
> because he would be filing an injunction soon.
>
> Can this guy do this? He has said he will happily spend $5000 if he needs
> to to get the car from me.
>
Brian--
Here's some free legal advice, worth exactly what you paid for it:
I assume that the $2000 is a deposit that he paid you.... Generally speaking
one cannot sue for "Specific Performance" on a contract for personal property
(although he could make the argument that the car is "unique" and therefore
not replaceable, the truth is that there are always Healeys on the market and
he could go elsewhere to buy one). However, one CAN sue for damages for
breach of contract, which in this case would probably be the difference, if
any, between what he had to pay for a similar car and what you and he agreed
to pay for your car. However, most states have a "Parole Evidence Rule"
which makes contracts for personal property over a specified price
unenforceable unless reduced to writing, so you may have an out.
Having said that, he CAN sue you and you WILL have to defend the suit.
There are consequences to breaking deals--perhaps you should work it out with
him somehow.
Best--Michael Oritt
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From Awgertoo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 15:47:17 EDT
Subject: Re: CONCLAVE REGISTRATION INCREASES TOMORROW
> <A HREF="www.capitalhealeys/org">www.capitalhealeys/org</A>
>
Make that: <A HREF="www.capitalhealeys.org">www.capitalhealeys.org</A>
Michael
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From "James Lea" <clocks at midcoast.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 16:10:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Jump seats.
James Lea Clockmaker
2 West St. PO Box 25
Rockport Maine 04856
Bt7III
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From brouillette at attbi.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 20:42:54 +0000
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey,
> In a message dated 4/30/2003 2:48:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bc1@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> > I realized yesterday while looking for his address that I did not have a
> > home address for him anywhere to send his $2000, only his work address.
> > and
> > so was wondering how to proceed when he called me and told me that he will
> > not even cash the deposit if I send it back to him so to just keep it
> > because he would be filing an injunction soon.
> >
> > Can this guy do this? He has said he will happily spend $5000 if he needs
> > to to get the car from me.
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From RandallC2 at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 16:47:06 -0400
Subject: Bn2 Floor Mats & Luggage Rack
I'm looking for some recommendations for some good quality floor mats to
protect the carpeting in a BN2. Also has anyone run across a luggage rack that
will fit a BN@, detachable, that will attach without drilling holes or having
part of the support sit on paint?
Thanks
Randy Hicks
'56 100M
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From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 18:19:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Bn2 Floor Mats & Luggage Rack
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From "tfelts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 19:26:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey,
Contact me off-line.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: brouillette@attbi.com <brouillette@attbi.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 30, 2003 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey, now
the guy s...
>Can I make a suggestion? Help him find a replacement. With the list and
the
>people who know of other cars available, you should be able to find him a
>suitable replacement for your car. Also suggest to him that he might want
to
>go to Washington for the national meet and he might find a car he likes
better
>for sale there...
>
>> In a message dated 4/30/2003 2:48:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>> bc1@sbcglobal.net writes:
>>
>> > I realized yesterday while looking for his address that I did not have
a
>> > home address for him anywhere to send his $2000, only his work address.
>> > and
>> > so was wondering how to proceed when he called me and told me that he
will
>> > not even cash the deposit if I send it back to him so to just keep it
>> > because he would be filing an injunction soon.
>> >
>> > Can this guy do this? He has said he will happily spend $5000 if he
needs
>> > to to get the car from me.
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From "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 19:06:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey,
I don't believe you stated if you had a written contract I assume no,
although if the check (deposit) says something about made towards the
purchase of xxx for $$$ it may be construed to be a contract, although if
you haven't signed the check or deposited that is still more of an offer
than a deal.
I would echo the statement of trying to work something out with the guy if
possible.
Greg Lemon
54 BN1
Subject: Re: Any Lawyers in our group? I decided not to sell my healey, now
the guy s...
> > I realized yesterday while looking for his address that I did not have a
> > home address for him anywhere to send his $2000, only his work address.
> > and
> > so was wondering how to proceed when he called me and told me that he
will
> > not even cash the deposit if I send it back to him so to just keep it
> > because he would be filing an injunction soon.
> >
> > Can this guy do this? He has said he will happily spend $5000 if he
needs
> > to to get the car from me.
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 19:28:26 -0500
Subject: Re: CONCLAVE REGISTRATION INCREASES TOMORROW
Rick
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From BluegrassClub at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 20:53:03 EDT
Subject: Bluegrass Club's Springthing
Historic Georgetown, KY
Just ten miles north of Lexington, KY
Visit the Springthing web site at
<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A> for a
preview
We have people coming from Texas, Florida, Illinois, Ohio, Missouri, Ohio,
Kentucky, Indiana and Tennessee.
Join the Bluegrass Club and all your Healey Friends as we celebrate spring in
beautiful Georgetown, KY.
Registration Form attached or you can download one from the Springthing web
site at <A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>www.springthing.info</A>
Hope to see you there!
Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
w<A HREF="http://www.springthing.info/";>ww.springthing.info</A>
<A HREF="http://www.bluegrassclub.com/";>www.bluegrassclub.com</A>
<A
HREF="mailto:information@bluegrassclub.com";>information@bluegrassclub.com</A>
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name
of Bluegrass Club Springthing.pdf]
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From "Rick" <WebmasterRick at attbi.com>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 19:50:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Jump seats.
Ed did not see this 'til a few mts. ago and now says:
"JL, you are NOT allowing for air pressure!! I understand your
unwillingness to put screws thru the squabs BUT if you locate them correctly
and go UNDER the car with an ice pick you can locate all the holes (for
each) as they should be. THEN application of correct screws and finish
washers is a POC and will NOT "harm" material!!
Regards...........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Horte4nse THE Healey)"
Good luck.
Rick
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From WilKo at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 20:59:58 EDT
Subject: Good book/tips for machine shop?
Thanks,
Rick
San Diego
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From APPRAISE11 at aol.com
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 21:06:32 EDT
Subject: work to be performed
i am bringing in my 63 bj7 for some work. dont know what these will cost. can
you give an idea of approxiamte cost:
1. complete tune-up
2. oil change (original parts)
3. new 72 spoke chrome wheels
4. install correct oil/water temp gauge- tach and speedo
thanks mitch
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From Bob Denton <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 22:04:38 -0700
Subject: Anybody know anything about Allards? (No A/H content)
Reply off list, please.
Bob Denton
foxriverkid@earthlink.net
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From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
From: "Marge and/or Len" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 21:47:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Bn2 Floor Mats & Luggage Rack
RandallC2@aol.com wrote:
> Hello List,
> Now that the season has finally arrived in New England, there are still a
>coulpe items to get the Healey ready for summer touring.
>
> I'm looking for some recommendations for some good quality floor mats to
>protect the carpeting in a BN2. Also has anyone run across a luggage rack that
>will fit a BN@, detachable, that will attach without drilling holes or having
>part of the support sit on paint?
>
> Thanks
> Randy Hicks
> '56 100M
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|