Dave,
I had the same problem with the hydraulic brake switch that you reported. I
had installed a new one on my BN2 during the rebuild and had been driving
around for months before someone, who had been behind me at a stop light,
told me I had no brake lights. They did not come on until the pedal
pressure was really high and went out at the slightest pedal backoff. I
bought another new switch from Moss and now it works consistently at light
pressure. There is variation in the quality of the parts we are getting.
It was the same with the new flasher unit I had fitted which always seemed a
bit slow and after a year it stopped altogether. The replacement works
twice as fast and now I check both the flasher and the brakes periodically
in the garage with the lights out.
The mechanical brake light switch I have on my TR4A, which closes contacts
on release, would also work if mounted on a suitable bracket behind the
footwell.
Peter Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Carpenter <d.carpenter7@verizon.net>
To: Bob Johnson <robert.w.johnson@adelphia.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: brake light switch
> Speaking of brake light switches. The street rodders have a great
> universal, adjustable mechanical switch available for $20. It works
> through an arm right against the pedal. It should bolt to the firewall
> or pedal box, outof sight, and work the lights much sooner and more
> consistant than the hydraulic one. I'll report back next week when I
> install mine. My lights don't come on until I'm stopped and leaning on
> the pedal real hard.
>
> Dave
> 67 BJ8
> 60 BT7
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