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Re: Re-assembly sequence & advice

To: "davidwjones" <davidwjones@cox.net>, <ggilliam@usol.com>,
Subject: Re: Re-assembly sequence & advice
From: "Rich C" <richchrysler@quickclic.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2004 00:47:26 -0500
I'd like to jump in here for a moment regarding the beading.
Do not install until after the painting of the exterior of the car. In fact 
let the paint harden up for a while before installing them. It's easy to 
avoid scratching the paint. Simply install small bits of electrical tape 
over the ends of each tab. This will prevent the paint being scratched while 
you're fitting everything into place. Once in place the tape bits can be 
pulled off the tabs, then finally adjust the fit and bend the tabs over and 
tighten the mounting bolts to lock everything in place. I've done this 
method sucessfully for many years and many cars.
Any amount of taping up the beading in place, then painting is going to 
result in a tape edge.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "davidwjones" <davidwjones@cox.net>
To: <ggilliam@usol.com>; <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: Re-assembly sequence & advice


> Can't reply to the specific longbridge related questions, but I can the
> others.
>
> The beads are exactly that, just a bead, with a bottom side slit with 
> periodic
> (tin?) strips (tabs) that can be slid along the groove. Ideally the beads
> should be installed while the outer car surface is in primer, then taped 
> for
> the final paint. The fenders should be loosened enough that the tabs will 
> fit
> in between the fender and shroud easily without scratching, but only along 
> the
> tops to avoid them shifting.. With at LEAST  2 people to handle the bead 
> and
> avoid having the tabs scratch the paint, Maneuver the bead into place with 
> the
> tabs at the beginning and end of the bead and reasonably evenly spaced in
> between. Tighten the fenders ALMOST all the way. Use the tabs (from the 
> inside
> of body to pull the bead down to the surface of the crease between the 
> fender
> and shroud. Once positioned correctly, spread the tabs against the 
> underside
> of the crease/panels. Finish tightening fenders.
>
> I've been told that the anti corrosion strips serve to trap water and that 
> you
> are better off with good coats of paint and garaging the car.
>
> I used 3M Metal panel adhesive on the shroud -so it does not show, and 3M
> spray adhesive on the tarpaper under the dash. Seems to be neat and has 
> held
> up in my hot garage.
>
> On the BT7 the gas tank is just covered with armacord.
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: ggilliam@usol.com
>  To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
>  Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 6:18 PM
>  Subject: Re-assembly sequence & advice
>
>
>  Experts,
>    Having finally painted all my BN4 (Longbridge) body panels (gun
>  metal grey metallic), I am now approaching the, hopefully, final
>  reassembly, and I have several questions.
>    How is the beading installed between the fenders and shrouds?
>    Have any of you tried the "non-corrosion" strip products?
>    What should be used as the adhesive material that was between the
>  front shroud and cowling, and the tarpaper like strips?
>    What is the best sequence for the interior kits, panels then carpet,
>  or otherwise....?
>    Also, is there some sort of a shelf that is supposed to cover the fuel
>  tank, or does it just lie there all exposed?
>
>    Thanks in advance,
>
>  Gordy




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