Hi Steve,
Very much appreciate the information.
As you know "loosening off "of these is often a problem on wire wheel cars
so correct tightening torque is very important.
However, the biggest problem with the strange conical self locking nuts used
to secure the wire wheel adaptors is that although there is plenty of thread
there is a very limited bearing area for the wrench or socket used to
install or remove them, and if one is not very careful, it is easy to round
off the nut.
As has been mentioned previously on this list, if you round off one of those
conical nuts they are very difficult to remove.
I would urge anyone working on these to be sure to use only a 6 point socket
which is in very good condition. For this purpose I keep a special 6 point
impact socket, from which I have machined off the outer face to achieve the
largest bearing area on the nut flats.
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 1:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear hub studs and nuts
Hello, Healeyphiles -
Since the workshop manual does not specify a torque for the wire wheel rear
hub splined adapter nuts, this information might be helpful:
I just replaced the studs in the left rear wheel of my BJ8. I took the old
studs to the Materials Lab where I work, and they tested them for hardness.
The result was Rockwell C32 - C33, which corresponds to a Grade 8 bolt. The
standard torque tables for 7/16 - 20 Grade 8 Bolts gives 78 lb-ft (105.75
meeton-newters, for the metric crowd) as the recommended maximum torque. I
have torqued mine to 70 lb-ft.
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
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