Stephen
As a novice with a bj8 I have more or less completed this and this is what I
learned:
I removed the wishbone arm bolts by using the small fat bolt compressing
against the frame technique, would I do it again, NO, its a waste of time as
you will probably replace them anyway, easiest way would be to cut the front
head of any knock them out, the rear arm bolt is easier as you can use a long
metal bar to knock it out through the holes in the frame after removing the
front ones.
Secondly the swivel/king pin will be corroded and scored so get the new one
ready, I tried to knock out the fulcrum cotter pin which (as David Knock points
out) will probably mushroom. Basically remove the swivel pin nut and you will
probably have to heat the top trunnion to get it off the pin then remove from
the stub axle. As above the swivel pin needed replacing even though it wasnt
really oval, so it was away to the machine shop (Dennis Welsh) for new bushes
and reaming. See my post from a couple of days for reassmbly under "king pin
and thrust washer clearance".
Dont do it the hard way trying to save bits that you will replace anyway, been
there done that. New bearings in the hub just got to shim them up.Just my
experience!!!
cheers Andy~> Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2007 12:34:47 -0500> To: healeys@autox.team.net>
From: s.hutchings@rogers.com> Subject: Re: [Healeys] re king pins out> > While
we're on the subject, has anyone found a useful third-party > description of
the front suspension rebuild? I've been hoarding all > this info, because I
will be starting mine soon, and I've found some > great stuff on individual
aspects of the job, but I've yet to find a > run-through of the whole
job......other than the manual, of course! > It's always nice to be forewarned
of the pitfalls.> > Stephen, BJ8>
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