Hi Stephen,
You need to purchase a Pitman Arm Puller. They have them at Princess Auto
item #8105223.
The jaws of the puller have to be trimmed slightly to fit over the shaft
between the arm and the body.
Then you install the castellated nut upside down until its face is just
level with the end of the thread to protect the shaft.
I then slide a small piece of 3/8" steel plate between the end of the
forcing screw and the nut/shaft for further protection. This will prevent
the end of the shaft collapsing as a result of its being weakened where the
split pin hole is drilled.
Tighten the hex on the puller, I use an impact gun, and Bob's your uncle.
Wear safety glasses, they come off with a bit of a bang.
Michael Salter
100 (1953) #174
AHX12 (1953)
Bugeye (1961)
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=432
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings
Sent: November 26, 2008 12:30 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Steering lever removal
I'm having a hell of a time removing the steering levers from the
idler and steering box.
I soaked the area in penetrant for days, then applied some heat (not
the serious, de-tempering kind) and used my puller, but the force I
had to use made me fear I'd break the pulling "ears" on the arms.
They are back to soaking while I think about this.
It occurred to me that it might be effective to put in a spacer and
screw the castellated nut back on, which would theoretically get it
moving further on to the splines , and once it's moving make it
easier to withdraw.
Any thoughts from the more experienced?
Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
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