Sam,
I know from personal experience after removing a lot of sheet metal from my
BJ7 that is can be INCREDIBLEY difficult to get everything to line up. I
worked for many months to get it to line up. As far as the trunk floor lip
and the shroud lip, I just tried to compromise and split the difference. It
looks good now. I do have some extra sheet metal hanging low where the
floor meets the inner fender/rear fender. I plan on just cutting the trunk
floor flush with the rear fender. You can fill any void between panels with
a good seam sealer. I used a gray sealer in a tube from NAPA. Wear a mask
when using it because it has some nasty VOCs though. I would send you pics
but mine is still in process and is not representative of truly original
dimensions in this area. As a rule, I always went with the original panels
as far as size and dimensions and figured that the aftermarket panels were
off. Good luck!
Randy
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ7
60 BT7
66 Cobra replica
06 Mini Cooper S
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of ahbugeye1@bellsouth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 3:46 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Shroud fit
I am trying to finish installing the rear shroud on my Bj7. There was a lot
of repair work done to the trunk floor and rear quarter panel and I am not
happy with the fit at the bottom of the rear fenders, where the shroud lip
rivets to the trunk floor flange. Part of the quarter panel extends down
below the fender about B> of an inch. It doesnbt leave a very smooth
transition. Ibm sure part of it will have to be cut off, but I donbt want
to mess up now. I have been trying to find a picture of this area for
several months, but have been unsuccessful. If someone has a photo of this
area ( taken from beneath the car or below the fender) that they would share
with me, I would be very grateful.
TIA
Sam Austin
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