The plug you have found under the top tank is a legacy fitting from the
days when the capillary temperature sender used to be installed there.
Later cars moved the sender to the cylinder head. A much more sensible
location. Imagine - low water in the rad would result in a COLD reading at
the temp gauge. Not exactly intuitive is it?
The tap in the bottom tank has always seemed a bit crazy to me adding
unnecessary complication. My recommendation is to replace it with a brass
plug and fibre (or soft copper) washer.
2009/11/17 Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> I'm busy attending to little tasks at the front of my MkII BT7 while the
> front grille surround is away being fixed up.
>
> So....I've had a periodic and puzzling leak from my radiator for some time.
> Just a little now and then. Not from the overflow tube. I put the radiator
> on the bench today and looked closely at it.
> 1) The bolt/cap that is only visible when the radiator is out had signs of
> slight leakage. I undid it and found that the washer inside (rubber/cork
> amalgam of some fifties ****) had disintegrated so I made a new, covered
> the
> thread with PTFE tape and tightened it up. (This bolt/cap is on the bottom
> surface of the top tank on the side that bulges out over the finned cooling
> section....if you see what I mean!)
> 2) The drain tap at the bottom was the main culprit. It seems that the
> spring had rusted and collapsed so that the tap could work (a tiny
> bit)loose. I've taken the tap apart and will hopefully be able to replace
> the spring with a section of a spring from my "grotty old springs which
> will
> be useful one day collection".
>
> So, if you have a periodic radiator leak that baffles most of the
> collective
> wisdom and past advice, it might - just - be one of the two failings,
> above.
> Simon
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