Hi, I'm still taking advantage of the increased access to the front areas of
my MkII BT7 whilst the grille, radiator etc etc is out. Now I'm thinking
ahead to when I refill and flush the system.
Flushing, I suppose, must work best if one can open and close the drain tap
on the block?? (The one under the manifolds).
I can get at it from the front. Not 100% easily, but OK by Healey standards.
Underneath would be tricky unless I can get the car up a good bit higher.
I grabbed the brass lever, with my hand, and it sheared off at once. Before
I'd even put the slightest pressure on it. Almost like it had been super
glued on.
The situation is plainly not irretrievable....it's shut and it doesn't leak.
But I would like to fix it. I've fixed up the radiator valve/tap and the
heater one likewise.
This one appears to screw straight into the block and not to want to screw
straight out again, albeit nearly 50 yrs later!
How to get it out? I put a nice long spanner on it and I could feel the
brass burring before I put much leverage on it.
I'd not have thought that heat's an option with the fuel and brake lines so
close. In fact, I'm ruling it out here and now. Penetrating oil and more
work with the spanner?
I haven't looked closely at it just now....but has anyone tried taking the
cone shaped tap part out of the valve body and then sliding a long socket
onto the hex(?) section? That would be very fiddly....getting the split pin
out would be hell. I'd most likely file it flush on both sides and keeping
tapping until it popped through the washer. But an awful prospect.
Or, what else have you done that might work for me?
(I've got 6 branch pipes that sweep backwards so I think I may have more
access than some of you may have experienced).
Simon
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