The three small screws in the body of the steering wheel hold the
trafficator/control head in place. Loosen them and you should be able
to pull the control head out enough to be able to work on it. There are
three screws that hold the short stator tube to the bakelite parts. The
heads of the screws are covered by the thin steel disc in the short
stator tube assembly. Rotate the disc around (there's an tab that
you'll have to lift out of a hole) until the screw heads are exposed.
Remove the screws and separate the stator tube from the bakelite. This
will expose the wiring connections. Disconnect the horn lead. As your
other leads are already separated, the control head should now be free
and just feed the wiring eyelets through the short stator tube as you
pull it out.
Looking at the end of the steering column you should see the splines
that the steering wheel slides on and a steel ring. The ring prevents
the wheel from falling off the column. Remove the ring and loosen up
the locking ring and you should be able to remove the steering wheel.
Regards to wiring: there are four leads. Two have power - one for the
horns and one for the turn signals. So I wouldn't just clip them. I'd
disconnect the steering column harness from the main harness (in front
of the radiator).
3000 Mk I registrar
On 11/10/2010 05:29 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> Morning guys
> I am about to install a Moto Lita steering wheel but unfortunately I do not
> have my workshop manual around as its back home in Malta.
> I did this on my old car and the only real issue was fiddling with the wires
> to pull them up the tube and thread them back down again. However I can't
> remember how I got the wheel off.
> Unscrew the set screws obviously but what do I do next? It's an adjustable
> column but the large screw ring on the column looks like it could be stuck
> solid so I might need some pipe grips to free that. I've removed the horn
> push but that dfoesn't seem to let me access much. Is there a large nut at
> the top of the column? If so how do I get to it?
> Regarding the wiring, MY car now has the indicators operating off a switch
> on the dash so only the horn wire will be connected. As I am not going to be
> reusing the horn/indicator assemebly presumably I can just cut the horn wire
> at the top and won't have to bother with the threading , re-threading
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