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Re: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer

To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "Rich Chrysler"
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bouncing Speedometer
From: "Ron Ray" <ronald-ray@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 16:34:53 -0500
I think this got bounced so I am resending. I am sorry if any of you
received it earlier
 
 
Bob, Rich, Allan, and list,
 
I went back and looked at the original problem with my speedometer prior to
sending it to Mo Ma for rebuilding in 2005.  Originally the odometer and
trip odometer did not work and I am pretty sure the needle bounced.  When Mo
Ma returned the speedometer to me the first time after replacing "all major
parts," they had not corrected the problems even though they were
specifically mentioned in my cover letter including with the speedometer.
The second time Mo Ma returned it to me, the odometer and trip odometer both
worked.  Margaret stated that the "little arm" that controls the trip gears
was not catching.  However, the far left dial on the odometer (10,000) moved
constantly as if it were a tenth of a mile dial.    The speedometer also
still bounced  That is when I gave up on Mo Ma and just lived with
everything until recently when I had the transmission cover off and replaced
the angle drive.  So, I am wondering if Bob's mention about the rhythmic
bouncing of the needle, which seems to be descriptive of what I observe,
may be related to the odometer/trip odometer gears, and if so, how might
this be verified and corrected.
 
I plan on removing the inner cable and checking it for excess oil and kinks
as Rich suggested.  I hope I can simply remove and reinstall the inner cable
from the speedometer end of the sleeve without removing the transmission
tunnel. I am pretty sure that is possible.  I will also open up the
speedometer and check for any oil inside the speedometer.  Since the
speedometer has always bounced, I do not think that is a problem, but will
check anyway.  If I do fine oil in the speedometer, and since the cable acts
as an auger, is there a way to tell by looking at the cable if it is wound
incorrectly as Allan suggested?  Will removing it and simply switching it
end-for-end correct this?
 
Thanks for all your help.
  Ron
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