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[Healeys] Removing cam in situ

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Subject: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 06:44:09 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0
Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry.  As I suspected, it's a major task.

I asked because when I was recently adjusting the valves I noticed a couple of 
the pushrods didn't appear to be lifting 
as much as the others, probably indicating flattened cam lobes.   I don't know 
what could have caused this, because I 
have always fed good, clean 20W-50 oil to this engine (it has about 100K since 
rebuild).  It's possible it's been this 
way since rebuild, as I always had lower compression on a couple cylinders (why 
a reputable cam grinder would screw up a 
re-grind is unknowable, but possible I suppose).

I just had the front pulley and timing cover off to replace the cover seal, and 
had the radiator in and out 3 times due 
to water pump issues, so when I get to the cam I'm likely to pull the engine 
and do an overhaul.   The big nut on the 
crank is the issue; I bought a 3/4" impact wrench and socket to get it off, but 
there's insufficient room to get the 
wrench on the nut due to the front X brace.  I ended up ruining the nut and a 
new one was $40 from Moss. The new nut was 
good quality, but the original had a conical section machined away to clear the 
Woodruff key, and the new one did not 
but seems to be OK.

Bob

-- 
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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

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