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Re: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:10:46 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1522401949.1360.1405785570253.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
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Always something with replacement parts. I spaced out the handle 
slightly with a washer and used the door hinge screws.  On my other car 
the original screws were slot head countersunk screws.
John
64/66

On 7/19/2014 11:59 AM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
> 1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there is 
> that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is 9/16 
> (thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without hitting 
> the drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches, crows feet, 
> multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not going to take 
> the drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.
>
> 2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk 
> screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle 
> doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the 
> screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you can 
> get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down. When 
> the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross for the 
> screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out. Black oxide 
> screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be shorter and 
> don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is still enough hex 
> to enable tightening the screw.
> I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham 
> fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands?? The 
> crimping was still in place.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
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