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Re: [Healeys] Block Drain

To: <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, <050.rpl@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2014 00:56:30 +0000
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <28843AB5-4E87-477A-9B39-C29A2585FC48@gmail.com>, <53E2BD7C.2080302@earthlink.net> FILETIME=[6CFBEC70:01CFB1DA]
The brass doesn't rust like iron or corrode electrolytically like aluminum
(ium?) so it's not likely to be stuck in its thread. It will probably just
screw out.

Bill Lawrence

> Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0400
> From: rchaskell@earthlink.net
> To: 050.rpl@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block Drain
>
> Price,
>
> The threaded section in the block is quite thick.  I don't think you
> have to worry about it breaking off.  Probably a Whitworth sized nut.
> There should be a fiber washer between the block and the petcock.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 08/06/2014 07:24 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote:
> > I am in the process of flushing out the cooling system of my BJ8.  It has
been
> > a few years since I did this and when I did it last, I did not open the
block
> > drain.  I'm not sure it has ever been opened but its time has come.  I
presume
> > the unit is brass, but not sure.  My concern is if I put too much pressure
on
> > it with a wrench (I want to take it off rather than try and turn the
shuttle
> > cock) it will break or the threads will strip creating another set of
"real"
> > issues.
> >
> > Any words of caution, processes to follow or other encouragement??
> >
> > Thank you, as always, in advance.
> >
> > Price Lindsay
> > 67 BJ8
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