Sounds to me like he's got the car idling with throttle screws instead of "the
screw that regulates the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plates".
That's not it's job. That screw is the idle screw.
He'll need to make sure that the throttle plates close all the way and there
is no other air leaking into the manifold. To do this loosen the throttle rod
connector that joins the two carbs and seat the throttle plates to fully
closed. Get those screws off the throttle stops.
Fully close what he's calling the bypass screw and then open 2 1/2 turns. THAT
is the idle screw. There is a screw for mixture and that ain't it.
Rick Wilkins
On Dec 18, 2014, at 1:21 PM, <britfan1@epix.net> <britfan1@epix.net> wrote:
> A mechanic friend is trying to get the electric choke on a customerbs BT7
> (not a tricarb) to work satisfactorily. He did have to install a dash
switch
> wired to it in order to get it to turn on/off properly. (Hebs familiar
with
> this choke from previous experience with Jaguar engines, and he does have a
> copy of the 100/6b3000 factory service manual.) As I understand his
> description of the problem, hebs been able to get both carbs synchronized
> properly, and the car starts and idles well when warm. However, turning
the
> screw that regulates the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plates
has
> no effect whatever on engine speed or exhaust appearance (richer/leaner
> mixture). Suggestions, anybody? [Apologies if this might not be perfectly
> clearb I havenbt been to his shop to observe, only working from phone
> description and the photo in the 3000 ownerbs handbook.]
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Sarah Carr
> BN1 in PA
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