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Re: [Healeys] oil weight

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil weight
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2015 15:56:28 +1000
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAEEMJ+1O5W4QsFbdKstDgEa-TgFucGf-KqLAJhVkt+MwWGKA4w@mail.gmail.com> <CAPTa0B7MJ64OgaOvSNsWW2vVVy9puByYYTkExohjYNsbUDdLJw@mail.gmail.com> <013401d0a3db$6cf930e0$46eb92a0$@tpg.com.au> <5578D4B3.3020104@comcast.net> <015301d0a3e1$15ca6860$415f3920$@tpg.com.au> <5579015B.7060000@comcast.net>
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Most of the answers you seek can be found here Bob...

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%2=
0Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf


Sent from my iPhone

> On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>=20
> OK, I'll bite.  How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older engine (=
besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?  Except for (possibly) lo=
oser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a good machinist--what is th=
e difference between an older iron block and a newer one (I know many modern=
 engines are Al), Al pistons, steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc. =20
>=20
> We are running modern oils in:
>=20
> - a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck
> - a 1955 T-Bird
> - a 1956 BN2/100M
> - a 1965 Mustang (289)
> - a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a quart o=
f oil every 3,500 miles)
>=20
> ... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.  Sorry, but while I'm sure Pen=
nrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly what needs to be fo=
rmulated for older engines it sounds like marketing blather to me.  If 'form=
ulated for older engines' means you get lots of sludge and gunk in the pan t=
hanks, but I'll pass.  I had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the seal=
 the other day and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of crud (1=
10,000 miles since the last rebuild).
>=20
> Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so 20W-5=
0 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW, there's no go=
od reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your top end a disservice=
 every time you start the engine if you don't.  I believe Pennrite makes a X=
XW-60 oil, which should give a little more oil pressure if your engine is oi=
l pressure-challenged.
>=20
> Any racers on the List care to chime in?  Richard M., aka 'Boy Racer,' are=
 you on here?
>=20
> Gearboxes?  No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are hands d=
own the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).
>=20
> Bob
>=20
> ps.  I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the Pennr=
ite line

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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; 
charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div><span 
style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Most of the answers you seek can be 
found here Bob...</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 
auto;"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a 
href="http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf";>http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf</a></span></div><div><span
 style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span><br><span 
style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sent from my iPhone</span></div><div 
style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob 
Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; 
wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 
auto;">
  
    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  
  
    OK, I'll bite.&nbsp; How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older
    engine (besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)?&nbsp; Except
    for (possibly) looser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a
    good machinist--what is the difference between an older iron block
    and a newer one (I know many modern engines are Al), Al pistons,
    steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc.&nbsp; <br>
    <br>
    We are running modern oils in:<br>
    <br>
    - a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck<br>
    - a 1955 T-Bird<br>
    - a 1956 BN2/100M<br>
    - a 1965 Mustang (289)<br>
    - a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a
    quart of oil every 3,500 miles)<br>
    <br>
    ... with no issues with the oil whatsoever.&nbsp; Sorry, but while I'm
    sure Pennrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly
    what needs to be formulated for older engines it sounds like
    marketing blather to me.&nbsp; If 'formulated for older engines' means
    you get lots of sludge and gunk in the pan thanks, but I'll pass.&nbsp; I
    had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the seal the other day
    and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of crud (110,000
    miles since the last rebuild).<br>
    <br>
    Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so
    20W-50 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW,
    there's no good reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your
    top end a disservice every time you start the engine if you don't.&nbsp;
    I believe Pennrite makes a XXW-60 oil, which should give a little
    more oil pressure if your engine is oil pressure-challenged.<br>
    <br>
    Any racers on the List care to chime in?&nbsp; Richard M., aka 'Boy
    Racer,' are you on here?<br>
    <br>
    Gearboxes?&nbsp; No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are
    hands down the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    ps.&nbsp; I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the
    Pennrite line</blockquote><style><!--
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