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Raw linseed oil will dry. I have polished several mahogany tables and
chairs using it when I restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th
century mahogany furniture was polished using this method, in most cases
this was later replaced using French polishing with shellac, being
quicker and giving a very high gloss finish but needed more skill. The
trick is to apply a very very thin layer rubbing it on using a cloth
over several weeks/months. It will give a very nice satin finish.
If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up in a
sticky mess that has to be removed before you start again.
To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:
> Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled
> linseed oil.
>
> On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz
>
> I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from
> there. Thanks for the input.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
> On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker
> wrote:
>
>> HELLO
>>
>> I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:
>>
>> My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood
>>
>> Please define â??White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>>
>> Also PU solvent based PU?
>>
>> Thanks-everything else I agree with
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>> Of *Oudesluys
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>>
>> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and
>> patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it
>> with white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge
>> and rubbing in some linseed oil.
>> Look for remnants of lacquer on the inside of the aluminium. It
>> may have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
>> you cannot find anything.
>>
>>
>> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic
>> paint. If that is the case this must be completely removed before
>> repainting.
>> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with
>> white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until
>> the colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as
>> little wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust
>> carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
>> clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5
>> coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly.
>> Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly
>> with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden
>> wheels using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.
>> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw
>> linseed oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at
>> summer temperatures.
>> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut
>> can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks
>> like mahogany ply.
>> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered
>> Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>>
>> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer
>> and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The
>> drawback may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of
>> linseed oil.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
>>
>> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve
>> the looks of my wooden steering wheel? The wood is in very good shape. I
>> would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since
>> the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they
>> used? Are these maple? I know they are not original. I see the original
>> wheels were black plastic.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
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>> uitgifte: 12/31/15
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>
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> 12/31/15
>
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<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Raw linseed oil will dry. I have
polished several mahogany tables and chairs using it when I
restored antique furniture. A lot of 17th/18th century mahogany
furniture was polished using this method, in most cases this was
later replaced using French polishing with shellac, being quicker
and giving a very high gloss finish but needed more skill. The
trick is to apply a very very thin layer rubbing it on using a
cloth over several weeks/months. It will give a very nice satin
finish.<br>
If you apply it to thick, it will not dry and it all will end up
in a sticky mess that has to be removed before you start again.<br>
To let it dry out quicker one could use a small bit of siccative.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 1-1-2016 om 3:35 schreef richard mayor:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAKkXjqPNHmvtim92ccsVfRUC1T-WwgvcCKtdSPs8A9kGS-9-NA@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries.
Check out boiled linseed oil. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris
Scholz <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:drscholz@visioncenterpc.com";
target="_blank">drscholz@visioncenterpc.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="auto">
<div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take
it from there. Thanks for the input. <br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:douglas.barker@videotron.ca";
target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:douglas.barker@videotron.ca";>douglas.barker@videotron.ca</a></a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>HELLO</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking of
doing mine also so this is good timing:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe
aMotta but much lighter wood</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Please define â??White
spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based
PU?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything else I
agree with</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span>
Healeys [<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015
12:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish
steering wheel</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Of what I can see the
steering wheel does look very nice and
patinated. I would not do anything to it apart
from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough
cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in
some linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer on the inside of
the aluminium. It may have been coated only with
a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot
find anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be
coated with acrylic paint. If that is the case
this must be completely removed before
repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully
and thoroughly with white spirits. Sand very
lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the
colour is even and all lacquer is removed but
remove as little wood/aluminium material as
possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint
using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors)
with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so
the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with
400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat
wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others
prefer gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin
coats of raw linseed oil and leave every coat to
dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is
used but walnut can be used as well. Lighter
woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany
ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first
on an old battered Moto-Lita wheel (same
manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU
solvent based lacquer and also using raw linseed
oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback
may be that in the beginning your hands will
smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
 <br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</p>
</div>
<blockquote>
<pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on
how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel? The wood is in very
good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding
it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood
they used? Are these maple? I know they are not original. I see the
original wheels were black plastic. </pre>
<pre>Â </pre>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
</p>
<pre>_______________________________________________</pre>
<pre>Support <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://Team.Net"; target="_blank">Team.Net</a> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></pre>
<pre>Suggested annual donation $12.75</pre>
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<pre>Â </pre>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
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<pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.</pre>
<pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com"; target="_blank">www.avg.com</a></pre>
<pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 -
datum van uitgifte: 12/31/15</pre>
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