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Would it work to lap the parts together like valves against the seat?
Mike
On 7/17/2016 3:57 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
> G?day
>
> Which reminds me!
>
> In the process of getting the Healey Duncan going I disassembled,
> cleaned and polished the brass ?tapered plug? drain tap and it looked
> very pretty against the gloss black of the engine. One problem is that
> it didn?t seal!
>
> So out it came and with much physical action with a cloth and Brasso
> the tapered joins were polished. Then when assembling it received the
> gentle hammer treatment in the hope that it would seal. It didn?t!
>
> In the end I removed the tap from the BN3?s engine and used that which
> worked perfectly.
>
> The tap fitted to the Healey engine is more ornate that fitted to the
> Austin-Healey but apart from more work with Brasso I?m at a loss at
> what to do.
>
> Thanks
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Monday, 18 July 2016 3:41 AM
> *To:* Mike Garvey
> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] JB8 Stuck Heater Valve
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Th valve that you are working with is actually a "taper plug" valve.
>
> I just freed up 2 of them this morning for the 100 engine that I'm
> building.
>
> I have found that a gentle tap on the small shaft that extends below
> the spring is usually enough to loosen the taper and free up the valve.
>
> Don't hit it too hard or you will damage the brass shaft.
>
> If that doesn't work you have to remove the split (cotter) pin, then
> the washer then the spring. That will expose the end of the taper
> which when tapped with a hollow punch will drop out.
>
> Michael S
>
> BN1 #174
>
> On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 4:56 PM, Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net
>
> I have read in the archives about all the handles broken off the
> heater valve (controls coolant flow to the cockpit heater).
>
> My handle is not yet broken off. I can't get the valve closed with
> reasonable force. Any hints or suggestions?
>
> Thanks, Mike
>
> Michael Garvey
> 1967 BJ8/38046
>
>
>
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>
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>
--
Mike
MGTD (long gone)
BN1 (long gone)
BN2-100M (gone but in good hands)
BJ8
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<p>Would it work to lap the parts together like valves against the
seat?</p>
<p>Mike<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/17/2016 3:57 PM, Patrick &
Caroline Quinn wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:009101d1e07e$a8d35ba0$fa7a12e0$@tpg.com.au"
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt">G?day<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Which
reminds me!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">In the
process of getting the Healey Duncan going I disassembled,
cleaned and polished the brass ?tapered plug? drain tap and
it looked very pretty against the gloss black of the engine.
One problem is that it didn?t seal!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">So out it
came and with much physical action with a cloth and Brasso
the tapered joins were polished. Then when assembling it
received the gentle hammer treatment in the hope that it
would seal. It didn?t!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">In the end I
removed the tap from the BN3?s engine and used that which
worked perfectly.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">The tap
fitted to the Healey engine is more ornate that fitted to
the Austin-Healey but apart from more work with Brasso I?m
at a loss at what to do.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt">Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Patrick
Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt">Blue
Mountains, Australia<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael
Salter<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, 18 July 2016 3:41 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Mike Garvey<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] JB8 Stuck Heater
Valve<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">Hi Mike,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">Th valve that you are working with is
actually a "taper plug" valve. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">I just freed up 2 of them this morning
for the 100 engine that I'm building.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">I have found that a gentle tap on the
small shaft that extends below the spring is usually
enough to loosen the taper and free up the
valve.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">Don't hit it too hard or you will damage
the brass shaft. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">If that doesn't work you have to remove
the split (cotter) pin, then the washer then the spring.
That will expose the end of the taper which when tapped
with a hollow punch will drop out. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">Michael S<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Comic
Sans MS"">BN1 #174<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Sat, Jul 16, 2016 at 4:56 PM, Mike
Garvey <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:r3m1g4@verizon.net";
target="_blank">r3m1g4@verizon.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
lang="EN-US">I have read in the archives about all
the handles broken off the heater valve (controls
coolant flow to the cockpit heater). <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
lang="EN-US">My handle is not yet broken off. I
can't get the valve closed with reasonable force.
Any hints or suggestions?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
lang="EN-US">Thanks, Mike<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto"><span
lang="EN-US">Michael Garvey<br>
1967 BJ8/38046<br>
<br>
</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Mike<br>
<br>
MGTD (long gone)<br>
BN1 (long gone)<br>
BN2-100M (gone but in good hands)<br>
BJ8</div>
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