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Simon
My comment is, if there is no obvious wear in the idler: they rarely wear,
is to clean off the external oil and then leave well alone except then use
a grease like material such as Penrite steering box lube to top up.
Oil seals do deteriorate and need replacing from time to time but this is a
big job. You need to have the correct tool to undo the side and cross tube
taper joints. Then remove the idler from the car. Next you will need a very
heavy puller to pull the steering arm from the shaft and 'break' the taper
spline joint. Then you can disassemble the idler and change the oil seal.
The foam rubber dust seal is best kept but it is not that important because
oil soon covers the exposed part of the idler shaft and protects it.
Best regards
On 3 August 2016 at 19:31, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
> One for the experts........
>
> 1) I hope that I=E2=80=99m right in my belief that I=E2=80=99ve labe=
lled the correct
> same parts in the three attached pics??? I ask because they certainly don=
=E2=80=99t
> look the same; ie if you go from the parts book diagram to the two photos=
,
> the rubber bush looks to be twice the size and the seal bears very little
> resemblance to that in the diagram.
>
> 2) Leaving aside that the whole area is covered in oil and filth =E2=
=80=93
> the residue of a leak incurred while fixing the trafficator =E2=80=93 I t=
hink we
> can agree that the bush looks pretty well shot?
>
> 3) Am I right in thinking that the seal and bush function to keep
> oil in as well as dirt out? ie that its condition matters??
>
> 4) On the assumption that the bush needs replacing and that I=E2=80=
=99m
> going to do it ASAP, is the seal something that needs to be replaced as
> well or is it reusable?
>
> 5) Yes, I have a fair collection of manuals to which I always
> refer.......But, is this one of those jobs, simple at first glance, which
> is full of hidden snags? I=E2=80=99ve not seen the dreaded words =E2=80=
=9CTaking special
> tool=E2=80=9D but I can=E2=80=99t be surprised any more by the unexpected=
in Healey land.
> Is this a job requiring big sockets and long bars or is there a hidden sn=
ag
> or two?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
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--=20
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Simon<div><br></div><div>My comment is, if there is no obv=
ious wear in the idler: they rarely wear, is to clean off the external oil =
and then leave well alone except then use a grease like material such as Pe=
nrite steering box lube to top up.</div><div><br></div><div>Oil seals do de=
teriorate and need replacing from time to time but this is a big job. You n=
eed to have the correct tool to undo the side and cross tube taper joints. =
Then remove the idler from the car. Next you will need a very heavy puller =
to pull the steering arm from the shaft and 'break' the taper splin=
e joint. Then you can disassemble the idler and change the oil seal.</div><=
div><br></div><div>The foam rubber dust seal is best kept but it is not tha=
t important because oil soon covers the exposed part of the idler shaft and=
protects it.</div><div><br></div><div>Best regards</div></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 3 August 2016 at 19:31, =
Simon Lachlan <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecal=
l.co.uk" target=3D"_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>></span> wrot=
e:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-GB" link=3D"blue" vlin=
k=3D"purple"><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">One for the experts........<u></u>=
<u></u></p><p><u></u><span>1)<span style=3D"font:7.0pt "Times New Roma=
n"">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span></span><u></u>I hope that I=
=E2=80=99m right in my belief that I=E2=80=99ve labelled the correct same p=
arts in the three attached pics??? I ask because they certainly don=E2=80=
=99t look the same; ie if you go from the parts book diagram to the two pho=
tos, the rubber bush looks to be twice the size and the seal bears very lit=
tle resemblance to that in the diagram.<u></u><u></u></p><p><u></u><span>2)=
<span style=3D"font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=
=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span></span><u></u>Leaving aside that the whole area is cove=
red in oil and filth =E2=80=93 the residue of a leak incurred while fixing =
the trafficator =E2=80=93 I think we can agree that the bush looks pretty w=
ell shot?<u></u><u></u></p><p><u></u><span>3)<span style=3D"font:7.0pt &quo=
t;Times New Roman"">=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span></span><u></=
u>Am I right in thinking that the seal and bush function to keep oil in as =
well as dirt out? ie that its condition matters??<u></u><u></u></p><p><u></=
u><span>4)<span style=3D"font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"">=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span></span><u></u>On the assumption that the bush =
needs replacing and that I=E2=80=99m going to do it ASAP, is the seal somet=
hing that needs to be replaced as well or is it reusable?<u></u><u></u></p>=
<p><u></u><span>5)<span style=3D"font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"">=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 </span></span><u></u>Yes, I have a fair coll=
ection of manuals to which I always refer.......But, is this one of those j=
obs, simple at first glance, which is full of hidden snags? I=E2=80=99ve no=
t seen the dreaded words =E2=80=9CTaking special tool=E2=80=9D but I can=E2=
=80=99t be surprised any more by the unexpected in Healey land. Is this a j=
ob requiring big sockets and long bars or is there a hidden snag or two?<u>=
</u><u></u></p><p>Thanks,<u></u><u></u></p><p>Simon<u></u><u></u></p></div>=
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">=
Best wishes<div><br></div><div>John Harper</div><div><br></div><div>AHC UK =
100 Register Secretary</div></div></div>
</div>
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