healeys
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Healeys] oil and run-in on rebuilt engines

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil and run-in on rebuilt engines
From: editorgary@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:26:20 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.3.1472493601.11108.healeys@autox.team.net>
--===============1363073655362016075==
        boundary="----=_Part_82513_120136381.1472509580253"

------=_Part_82513_120136381.1472509580253
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit


 Every time this topic climbs back out of the grave and storms down the street, 
I wonder if we'll ever put a stake in its heart.

There is NOTHING new to see here. The basic goal is very simple. During the 
first time an engine with flat-tappet cam followers is run in, you are 
micromachining the cam surface. To do that, you need molydenum and ZDDP to fill 
in the microscopic indentations and then the oil and filter skim off and 
capture the microscopic ridges that are worn off the cam by the rubbing of the 
tappets. Without the Moly and ZDDP, you will instead microweld the tappets to 
the cam surface, then break them off hundreds of times, ruining the surface of 
the cam.

So, given that is what you are doing, the process is simple. Coat the cam with 
Moly -- run-in grease -- and run a break-in oil with a high ZDDP content during 
the fire-up and first running. You don't need to run as long as 30 minutes at 
2,000 rpm, but you certainly shouldn't run any longer. At the end of that time, 
drain and change the oil (with all the metallic garbage), change the filter and 
run the car again under reasonable load either on the road for a hundred miles 
or so (or one or two warm-up sessions on the track) or preferably on a wheel 
dyno where you can run the car at higher rpm while watching the engine behavior 
for untoward vibrations, set the timing at high rpm, etc. for another 15-20 
minutes.

Then, change the oil and filter again, and from here on out you'll be just fine 
with regular oil and regular oil changes -- or synthetic if you're racing or 
drive your car more than 3,000 miles a year.

THAT'S all there is to it. End of Story. Die, zombie oil mythology, die.


Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Former editor, Classic Motorsports and Austin-Healey Magazine
Former Vintage Racer.

 



------=_Part_82513_120136381.1472509580253
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<font color='black' size='2' face='Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>

<div> <font size="2">Every time this topic climbs back out of the grave and 
storms down the street, I wonder if we'll ever put a stake in its heart.<br>
<br>
There is NOTHING new to see here. The basic goal is very simple. During the 
first time an engine with flat-tappet cam followers is run in, you are 
micromachining the cam surface. To do that, you need molydenum and ZDDP to fill 
in the microscopic indentations and then the oil and filter skim off and 
capture the microscopic ridges that are worn off the cam by the rubbing of the 
tappets. Without the Moly and ZDDP, you will instead microweld the tappets to 
the cam surface, then break them off hundreds of times, ruining the surface of 
the cam.<br>
<br>
So, given that is what you are doing, the process is simple. Coat the cam with 
Moly -- run-in grease -- and run a break-in oil with a high ZDDP content during 
the fire-up and first running. You don't need to run as long as 30 minutes at 
2,000 rpm, but you certainly shouldn't run any longer. At the end of that time, 
drain and change the oil (with all the metallic garbage), change the filter and 
run the car again under reasonable load either on the road for a hundred miles 
or so (or one or two warm-up sessions on the track) or preferably on a wheel 
dyno where you can run the car at higher rpm while watching the engine behavior 
for untoward vibrations, set the timing at high rpm, etc. for another 15-20 
minutes.<br>
<br>
Then, change the oil and filter again, and from here on out you'll be just fine 
with regular oil and regular oil changes -- or synthetic if you're racing or 
drive your car more than 3,000 miles a year.<br>
<br>
THAT'S all there is to it. End of Story. Die, zombie oil mythology, die.<br>
<br>
</font></div>

<div style="clear:both"><font face="Times New Roman, Times, serif"><i>Gary 
Anderson</i><br>

Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine<br>
<font size="2">Former editor, Classic Motorsports and Austin-Healey Magazine<br>
Former Vintage Racer.<br>
</font></font>
</div>



<div> <br>

</div>
<br>
</font>
------=_Part_82513_120136381.1472509580253--

--===============1363073655362016075==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys



--===============1363073655362016075==--

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • Re: [Healeys] oil and run-in on rebuilt engines, editorgary <=