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[Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

Subject: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2017 10:24:30 -0700
References: <CAPTa0B7A_-1o9_meWpnwSorUJ455bOPO0YF5ZFwiP_g63b0Lgw@mail.gmail.com> <MWHPR19MB1118FC0677F9350B9B3EE32DA5720@MWHPR19MB1118.namprd19.prod.outlook.com> <000001d33c5d$9bbe6e50$d33b4af0$@cox.net> <CAPTa0B4awbqMOYYQtStQ2Gv7G5E8iLtSCD87ei-cfmPUM7Db4w@mail.gmail.com>
The early BN1 motor has two bolt that go thru the rear engine plate into the 
rear main cap. If you have installed an aftermarket rear seal kit it is bolted 
to the rear main cap.  However you are going to create other problems by 
removing the front and rear main caps with the engine in place. You will tear 
the front and  rear engine plate gaskets. The rear one isnt as much of a 
problem but I guarantee that the front one will leak when you put it back 
together. 

DON?T do it 



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2017 8:50 AM
To: Jonas Payne 
Cc: Austin Healey 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

Jonas--

I'm aware of the bolts for the front main bearing cap and they are accessible 
with engine in.  lt is the rear main cap that I am concerned with and while I 
will take your word that they existed on the car you reference even if there 
were not I have decided against attempting its removal as the chance of 
damaging the gasket/seal is great.  I'll replace the oil pump and rod 
bearings--the mains will simply have to live a bit longer!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 11:38 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr at cox.net> wrote:

  There were horizontal bolts front and rear on George McHarris?s 100-4. It 
precluded an engine in rebuild.



  Jonas Payne

  PBR Consulting Services, LLC

  702.882.6711



  From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM 
B LAWRENCE
  Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 11:11 PM
  To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Austin Healey <healeys at 
autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ



  Michael,



  Having recently rebuilt my engine I can attest that there are no horizontal 
bolts holding the main caps to the engine block. What you may be seeing are 
some of the capscrews that hold the engine adapter plate in place. You should 
be able to remove the main cap after removing those bolts. They are accessible 
under the timing cover. Replacement may be a little delicate as that is a 
gasketed joint.



  Good luck. 



  Bill Lawrence

  BN1 #554


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt 
<michael.oritt at gmail.com>
  Sent: Sunday, October 1, 2017 5:22:51 PM
  To: Austin Healey
  Subject: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ 



  Looking at the exploded view of the bottom end of the 100 engine on page 
D/224 of the service manual I see that there are two horizontal bolts that 
fasten the front main cap into the block that are, I assume, accessible via the 
timing cvhanin cover.

  I do not see such hole(s) for the rear main cap. Are there any horizontal 
bolts going through the rear plate into the rear main cap that would require 
the removal of the engine or transmission for access to them?

  Judging by the condition of the oil pump gears and end plate I do believe 
that a lot of the lost oil pressure will be cured by replacing the pump. I have 
not yet removed the front main cap but the center main shell and crank journal 
were in pretty good shape with no discoloration, scoring, etc. 

  I'm certainly willing to replace the rod bearings and mains that I can access 
with the engine/transmission in place but do not want to pull it or the 
transmission if possible. I know that best practice would be to replace all 
mains but if there are such bolts and I choose not to pull the engine or 
transmission to access them I am making a big mistake by replacing only the 
front and center mains?



  Best--Michael Oritt




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