I doubt the electronic system produces any ozone since that is a product of the
spark produced by the contact points. The electronic system induces a much
weaker spark.
Maybe what you need is a solid cover and some tape for the joint.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
<bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2018 3:00:23 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps?
True enough about the electronic pumps. This is what happens when water
gets into the electronics (attached photo). This pump had about 50K
miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in
Washington state.
What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve
that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the
plastic cap over over the vent. I haven't bought a pump in a while, but
IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better
word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering.
Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe
off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and
installing the plastic cap over it.
Bob
On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using
> the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit
> the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes
> the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible
> to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically
> converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are
> supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do,
> that?s it.
>
> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to
> clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring
> blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some
> say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but
> dismantling the pump is needed.
>
> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have
> corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump,
> clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in
> good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one.
> It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being
> stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially
> the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder
> between the layers.
>
> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process.
>
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
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