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I am one of the few that actually praise Lucas electrics because that
can generally be taken apart cleaned and returned to service. My guess
is that you had/have a connection issue with a push in connector or a
Chinese
fuse that often look OK but separate at the metal caps internally or
corrosion on the fuse clips. DaveP
On 10/26/2018 10:36 AM, Steven Kingsbury wrote:
> Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many British
> cars. Many times they arrive with a "problem" and as soon as he starts
> to look at the "problem", it's fixed! Don't know why or how, but it's
> working! Around the shop we call this "FM". Loosely translated it
> means: F**king Magic!
> Â Â Â Glad to hear you're up and running again and if my heater motor
> ever needs attention, I like your idea of closing off the top vents,
> thanks for the suggestion.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BM1 #598
>
> On Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater
>> face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I
>> first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped
>> across the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on
>> full blast, telling me that the problem was in the switch, which had
>> felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem a few days
>> ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was missing.
>> Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the switch
>> I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt
>> and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's
>> more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to
>> low just as it always had.
>>
>>
>> I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater
>> power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this
>> is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am
>> sure that should I simply close the heater up the switch will
>> probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to investigate
>> whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll
>> also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle
>> and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air
>> to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste
>> of hot air.
>>
>> Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of
>> you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com
>>
>
>
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
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Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World
go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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<p>I am one of the few that actually praise Lucas electrics because
that can generally be taken apart cleaned and returned to service.
My guess is that you had/have a connection issue with a push in
connector or a Chinese <br>
</p>
<p>fuse that often look OK but separate at the metal caps internally
or corrosion on the fuse clips. DaveP<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/26/2018 10:36 AM, Steven
Kingsbury wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:3b99176e-6cb6-477a-a8c2-6305d53e16ca@me.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<div>Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many
British cars. Many times they arrive with a "problem" and as
soon as he starts to look at the "problem", it's fixed! Don't
know why or how, but it's working! Around the shop we call this
"FM". Loosely translated it means: F**king Magic!</div>
<div>Â Â Â Glad to hear you're up and running again and if my heater
motor ever needs attention, I like your idea of closing off the
top vents, thanks for the suggestion.</div>
<div>Steven Kingsbury</div>
<div>BM1 #598Â </div>
<div><br>
On Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael Oritt
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div class="msg-quote">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;"
data-mce-style="color: #3333ff;"><span color="#3333FF"
data-mce-style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma,
Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;
background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"
style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri,
Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color:
#fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span style="font-family:
Arial;" data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;">About
an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the
heater face-plate which gave me access to the back
of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there
was power to the switch and then jumped across the
two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came
on full blast, telling me that the problem was in
the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I
initially encountered the problem a few days ago as
the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was
missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned
the control knob just to see how it felt and--wonder
of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on.
What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat,
going from full blast to low just as it always
had. </span></span><br
style="color: #333333; font-family:
Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;"
data-mce-style="color: #333333; font-family:
Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;">
<span color="#3333FF" data-mce-style="font-family:
Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color:
#3333ff;" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma,
Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;
background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span
style="font-family: Arial;"
data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;"><br>
</span></span><br style="color: #333333; font-family:
Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;"
data-mce-style="color: #333333; font-family:
Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;">
<span color="#3333FF" data-mce-style="font-family:
Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color:
#3333ff;" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma,
Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;
background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span
style="font-family: Arial;"
data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;">I am 100%
certain that I had the ignition switch on and the
heater power lead connected with an intact fuse and
I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal,
and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
should I simply close the heater up the switch will
probably act up at some point in the future. I'm
going to investigate whether I can source a
replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also
take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in
black crackle and I am going to close off the top
opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in
back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of
hot air.<br>
<br>
Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope
this gives some of you who have experienced similar
situations a laugh.</span></span><br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="_stretch"><span
class="body-text-content">_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote>
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<br>
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<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World
go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/";>WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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