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Hi Michael,
100's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it
might well be worth checking.
The symptoms sound very similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil.
Mine would run for about 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly
dying.
Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver
which I at the time, mistakenly, felt confirmed that the coil was actually
okay ... it wasn't.
I was only able to confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by
installing a replacement.
I have encountered very similar symptoms with a faulty condenser which was
confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to cool it down and then
finding that the engine started immediately.
As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never causes the engine
to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!
I would recommend trying the condenser trick and then, if a regular coil
can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a substitution.
M
I wonder where the term "peters out" comes from ... Google time.
On Wed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
> I=E2=80=99m presuming that the car=E2=80=99s a 100? You make reference to=
4 plugs=E2=80=A6..
>
> Do 100s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? D=
o
> 100s have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused
> endless tears.
>
> Or is it a black/white wire?
>
> Worth a look.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Oritt
> *Sent:* 19 March 2019 17:46
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Car dies suddenly
>
>
>
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the
> car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing
> leading up to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I coasted to the side of th=
e road and
> after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start
> button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idl=
ed
> smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen
> now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and r=
an
> fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as
> earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition
> system. Everything seemed fine=E2=80=94all spark plug leads were firmly i=
n place as
> was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coi=
l
> were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seeme=
d
> fine.
>
>
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned
> on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right
> up and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage,
> about ten miles away and got there without any further event. Though the
> problem did not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was
> not a fuel delivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a
> switch mounted just behind the driver=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to s=
witch
> between pumps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the
> car at highway speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected
> the =E2=80=9Coff=E2=80=9D position it slowly lost power as I expected it =
to=E2=80=94but in no way
> like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated =
I
> was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to
> the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it.
>
>
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car
> has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been =
in
> place and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the
> distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The
> interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carb=
on
> contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast
> resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and with the engin=
e
> fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of =
it
> and at the positive coil terminal.
>
>
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in plac=
e
> of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch
> through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge
> sender line and then to the light. I point this out because both times wh=
en
> the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which =
I
> conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem=
.
> And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from
> it seem tight and intact.
>
>
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without
> finding something that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know w=
here to
> start any further tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait fo=
r the
> issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with =
no
> issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not
> performed any work related to the ignition system. All
> suggestions/questions welcome=E2=80=A6.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Michael,<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_=
default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">100=
's do have the master switch grounding wire to the master switch so it =
might well be worth checking.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fo=
nt-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The symptoms sound very=
similar to those I encountered with a faulty coil. Mine would run for abou=
t 30 minutes fairly consistently before suddenly dying. <br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size=
:small">Even when the engine would not start the bad coil still produced a =
significant spark each time the open points were shorted with a screwdriver=
which I at the time, mistakenly,=C2=A0 felt confirmed that the coil was ac=
tually okay ... it wasn't.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I was only able t=
o confirm that the villain was in fact the coil by installing a replacement=
.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans=
-serif;font-size:small">I have encountered very similar symptoms with a fau=
lty condenser which was confirmed by spraying it sparingly with ether to co=
ol it down and then finding that the engine started immediately.</div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-=
size:small">As I'm sure you are aware a fuel delivery problem never cau=
ses the engine to stop dead ... it typically sort of peters out!!<br></div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;=
font-size:small">=C2=A0I would recommend trying the condenser trick and the=
n, if a regular coil can be used as a substitute for the Mallory try a subs=
titution.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans=
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" styl=
e=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M</div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size=
:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic s=
ans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I wonder where the term "peters out=
" comes from ... Google time.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div></di=
v><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On W=
ed, Mar 20, 2019 at 2:13 PM <<a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.=
plus.com">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1p=
x solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-GB"><div class=
=3D"gmail-m_3595661642997666392WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I=
=E2=80=99m presuming that the car=E2=80=99s a 100? You make reference to 4 =
plugs=E2=80=A6..<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Do 10=
0s have the dreaded white wire from the on/off switch in the boot? Do 100s =
have the switch even? Anyhow, that wire shorting out has caused endless tea=
rs.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Or is it a black/w=
hite wire?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Worth a loo=
k.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Simon<u></u><u></u>=
</span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=3D"EN-US">From:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN=
-US"> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Mich=
ael Oritt<br><b>Sent:</b> 19 March 2019 17:46<br><b>To:</b> Austin Healey &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">healeys@auto=
x.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Car dies suddenly<u></u><u>=
</u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><div><p =
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:"Verdana=
",sans-serif;color:rgb(51,51,51);background:rgb(250,250,250) none repe=
at scroll 0% 0%">Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about f=
ive miles the car suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or =
missing leading up to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I coasted to the side=
of the road and after about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed=
the start button. To my surprise the car started immediately, revved freel=
y and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what wou=
ld happen now that I was paying close attention. The car accelerated smooth=
ly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manne=
r as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition=
system. Everything seemed fine=E2=80=94all spark plug leads were firmly in=
place as was the lead from the coil to the distributor. The power wires to=
the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the distributor (see belo=
w) seemed fine.</span><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:"Verda=
na",sans-serif;color:rgb(51,51,51)"><br><br><br><span style=3D"backgro=
und:rgb(250,250,250) none repeat scroll 0% 0%">After scratching my head for=
a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned on the ignition and pushed th=
e start button. Again, the car started right up and ran normally. With fing=
ers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten miles away and got there=
without any further event. Though the problem did not seem to be fuel rela=
ted I decided to verify that this was not a fuel delivery issue. I have a d=
ouble-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted just behind the driver=
=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to switch between pumps as well as turn the=
fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway speeds it ran perfec=
tly on either pump and when I selected the =E2=80=9Coff=E2=80=9D position i=
t slowly lost power as I expected it to=E2=80=94but in no way like it had s=
uddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I was not deali=
ng with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the ignition sy=
stem or to the primary wires that run to it.=C2=A0</span><br><br><br><span =
style=3D"background:rgb(250,250,250) none repeat scroll 0% 0%">This morning=
I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory=
Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in place and pe=
rformed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distributor cap an=
d everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interior of the dis=
tributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, optical r=
eader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the lead fro=
m the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling I tested 12.=
5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positive coi=
l terminal.=C2=A0</span><br><br><br><span style=3D"background:rgb(250,250,2=
50) none repeat scroll 0% 0%">I have a large low-oil pressure light that is=
mounted in the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired=
from the ignition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted i=
n the oil pressure gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this ou=
t because both times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediat=
ely came on, from which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not t=
he source of the problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key swit=
ch the wires to and from it seem tight and intact.</span><br><br><br><span =
style=3D"background:rgb(250,250,250) none repeat scroll 0% 0%">So my questi=
on is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without finding something =
that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know where to start any fu=
rther tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait for the issue to=
happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with no issues =
whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not performed a=
ny work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions welcome=
=E2=80=A6.</span></span><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><u></u><u></u>=
</span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51=
,255)"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51);background:rgb(250,250,250) none repeat scroll 0% 0%">Best--=
Michael Oritt, BN1</span><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><u></u><u></u=
></span></p></div></div></div></div>_______________________________________=
________<br>
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