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/Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator better
than that at normal speeds./
Should of course read :
*Both a generator and an alternator would deliver sufficiently and an
alternator better than that at normal speeds.*
Sorry for the confusion.
Kees Oudesluijs*
*
*
*
*
*
/
/
//Op 26-5-2019 om 22:44 schreef Kees Oudesluijs:
>
> I do not think the generator will deliver more than about 25-30A at
> high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will give you 32-36A at
> moderate revs.
>
> The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at low
> speed, when a generator is not producing many amps. An alternator
> would do slightly better.
>
> Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator better
> than that at normal speeds unless there are other accessories drawing
> a lot of power: e.g. head lights, spotlights, heater fan, windscreen
> wipers, modern high power radio, AC etc.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael Oritt:
>> Make that 7 amps--not 78....
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt
>>
>> Patrick--
>>
>> If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when
>> the fan is running I would be concerned for the state of your
>> charging circuit. I assume you have a generator if you have an
>> ammeter and
>> I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps which
>> should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an
>> auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more
>> than 78 amps (https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm).
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps
>> which will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light
>> is coming on, probably only when idling. Before you most
>> likely had the fan wired directly from the main circuit in
>> series with the Amp. meter and not through the ignition
>> circuit so the light might not show. You could operating the
>> fan using a relay switched on by the under dash switch but
>> getting the main current from the battery. It will not solve
>> the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming on.
>>
>> Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps
>> than necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short
>> while unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and
>> slow steep inclines
>>
>> The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
>> thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
>> manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
>> ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay
>> with the main current coming directly from the main circuit
>> with the Ampmeter
>>
>> Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and cuts out
>> at about 5-10°C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>>>
>>> Hello
>>>
>>> Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.
>>>
>>> My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator
>>> that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably
>>> well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning.
>>> When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the
>>> negative.
>>>
>>> Personally I donâ??t like thermo switches, so the fan has now
>>> been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under
>>> the dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of
>>> the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the
>>> ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>>>
>>> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light
>>> is illuminated and will not go out.
>>>
>>> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesnâ??t like what I
>>> have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the
>>> incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is
>>> powered direct from the battery. Would that work?
>>>
>>> Any electrical whizzes out there?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
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<p><i>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
better than that at normal speeds.</i></p>
<p>Should of course read : <br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b>Both a generator and an alternator
would deliver sufficiently and an alternator better than that at
normal speeds.</b></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
</div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Sorry for the confusion.</div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Kees Oudesluijs<b><br>
</b></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b><br>
</b></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><b><br>
</b></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><i><br>
</i></div>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix"><i></i>Op 26-5-2019 om 22:44 schreef
Kees Oudesluijs:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:e9f2ebb7-fca5-b192-eb0e-89507ebee1d8@chello.nl">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<p>I do not think the generator will deliver more than about
25-30A at high revs. on a good day. A period alternator will
give you 32-36A at moderate revs. <br>
</p>
<p>The fan will normally only be switched on in dense traffic at
low speed, when a generator is not producing many amps. An
alternator would do slightly better.</p>
<p>Both an alternator would deliver sufficiently and a generator
better than that at normal speeds unless there are other
accessories drawing a lot of power: e.g. head lights,
spotlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers, modern high power
radio, AC etc.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 26-5-2019 om 22:11 schreef Michael
Oritt:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6D4y4+m-TB0L5zUi7c7opPYUcu=FjfXXQ2k1p6R-NwGw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Make that 7
amps--not 78....</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10
PM Michael Oritt <<a
href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">If,
as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge
when the fan is running I would be concerned for the
state of your charging circuit. I assume you have a
generator if you have an ammeter and  </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">I
believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps
which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the
draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans
as drawing no more than 78 amps (<a
href="https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).  </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at
4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <<a
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of
amps which will result in a negative charge hence
the ign. light is coming on, probably only when
idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired
directly from the main circuit in series with the
Amp. meter and not through the ignition circuit so
the light might not show. You could operating the
fan using a relay switched on by the under dash
switch but getting the main current from the
battery. It will not solve the negative charge but
it may avoid the light coming on.</p>
<p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing
more Amps than necessary. However the fan is only on
for a very short while unless in prolonged very
heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines<br>
</p>
<p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with
the thermo-switch (wired through the ignition
circuit and use the manual switch as an override
switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan
will not work. These should switch a relay with the
main current coming directly from the main circuit
with the Ampmeter<br>
</p>
<p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95°C and
cuts out at about 5-10°C over the opening
temperature of the thermostat.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op
25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline
Quinn:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div
class="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from
those who understand automotive electrics.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
electric fan in front of the radiator that was
controlled by a thermo switch. Worked
reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power
but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
needle would always hover in the negative. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Personally I donâ??t like
thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired
direct and operated by a discreet switch under
the dash. Power is taken directly from the
outgoing side of the ignition switch so that
the fan only comes on when the ignition is on
along with the specific switch.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now
when the fan goes on the ignition light is
illuminated and will not go out.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
ignition circuit doesnâ??t like what I have
done? I am thinking of taking the power direct
from the incoming side of the ignition switch
so that the fan is powered direct from the
battery. Would that work?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes
out there?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains,
Australia </span></p>
</div>
<div
id="gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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