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Re: [Healeys] End Float

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End Float
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 07:40:15 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
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I think Michael is probably correct; bearings usually make a grinding 
noise when they're worn or broken.

The shop manual has an elaborate process for setting end float on the 
hub involving a dial micrometer and math.  I've had success with 
starting with too few shims--the wheel won't turn at all when the big 
nut is tightened--and stacking them until the wheel turns freely, and 
you can just feel the tiniest of float when you tug on the wheel.  You 
need a few 0.001" shims; the overall stack is usually in the 
neighborhood of 0.030"-0.035".  Do it with just some light oil on the 
bearings at first, then when you've got the stack right load them with 
wheel bearing grease (just on the bearings; don't stuff the whole hub).

Also, torque the snot out of the big nut, and position the hole in the 
end of the axle and the castellated nut such that the cotter pin 
prevents the nut from loosening even a smidge.  I've had the flat washer 
with a tang on the I.D. spin, making the aforementioned grinding noise 
until it wedged itself against the bearing.

Bob


On 7/29/2019 4:56 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Tom if it's the hubs that you are reffering to there there shouldn't 
> be any appreciable end float in them.
> The design is such that shims are used to reduce the end float to 
> almost zero when the stub axle nut is fully tightened.
> I would be looking for loose spokes. Try swapping wheels side to side.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Jul 29, 2019, 7:40 AM Tom Felts, <tomfelts@windstream.net 
>
>     Bj8--disc--front.
>
>     When I make a slow sharp right turn I get this popping sound in
>     the left front.  I feel quite sure it is associated with the shims
>     (end float)---too many of too few.  I have removed several in an
>     attempt to stop the noise.  I know there is this end float thing
>     but I'm not smart enough to figure this out.
>
>     Anyone have "simple" instructions on how to achieve it?
>
>     Any other ideas on what the popping sound could be?
>
>     Thans
>     tom
>

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    <p>I think Michael is probably correct; bearings usually make a
      grinding noise when they're worn or broken.</p>
    <p>The shop manual has an elaborate process for setting end float on
      the hub involving a dial micrometer and math.  I've had success
      with starting with too few shims--the wheel won't turn at all when
      the big nut is tightened--and stacking them until the wheel turns
      freely, and you can just feel the tiniest of float when you tug on
      the wheel.  You need a few 0.001" shims; the overall stack is
      usually in the neighborhood of 0.030"-0.035".  Do it with just
      some light oil on the bearings at first, then when you've got the
      stack right load them with wheel bearing grease (just on the
      bearings; don't stuff the whole hub).</p>
    <p>Also, torque the snot out of the big nut, and position the hole
      in the end of the axle and the castellated nut such that the
      cotter pin prevents the nut from loosening even a smidge.  I've
      had the flat washer with a tang on the I.D. spin, making the
      aforementioned grinding noise until it wedged itself against the
      bearing.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Bob</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/29/2019 4:56 AM, Michael Salter
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+yMeTUT3ZfMvpHEpfsGP+nr1=WRQ0FMtpX4hyZXao2sw@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">Tom if it's the hubs that you are reffering to
        there there shouldn't be any appreciable end float in them.
        <div dir="auto">The design is such that shims are used to reduce
          the end float to almost zero when the stub axle nut is fully
          tightened.</div>
        <div dir="auto">I would be looking for loose spokes. Try
          swapping wheels side to side.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">M</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jul 29, 2019, 7:40 AM
          Tom Felts, &lt;<a href="mailto:tomfelts@windstream.net";
            moz-do-not-send="true">tomfelts@windstream.net</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
          .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div>Bj8--disc--front.</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>When I make a slow sharp right turn I get this popping
              sound in the left front.  I feel quite sure it is
              associated with the shims (end float)---too many of too
              few.  I have removed several in an attempt to stop the
              noise.  I know there is this end float thing but I'm not
              smart enough to figure this out.</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Anyone have "simple" instructions on how to achieve it?</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Any other ideas on what the popping sound could be?</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Thans</div>
            <div>tom</div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
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