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Right up there with 'which oil to use.'
I've experimented with many of the modern sealants. I'd be careful with
Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with no gasket
on my BJ8's oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried to remove it I
hurt my right elbow sawing the pan off with a serrated kitchen knife
(that was a couple years ago, and the elbow is still sore). When I told
my mechanic about this, he said: "Well, you weren't supposed to remove
the pan," but, shit happens. There are two types of RS, black and grey,
and supposedly the grey is for import cars (but damned if I know the
difference). There are photos and videos on the internets of people who
used RS on, for instance, SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and
were unable to remove the manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine
by the manifold (the RS held).
Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around sealant.
It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it easy(er) to
remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on my gearbox/OD
rebuild, and they're sealed nicely, except for the critical OD body to
tailcone--'annulus housing?'--surface, which is not supposed to have a
gasket (unless it's accounted-for in setting the depth of the annulus
gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone 'Adhesive Sealant' there and, so
far, no leaks. I just used the same stuff on the thermostat housing and
water pump on my '55 T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work
well. Note if the label says 'adhesive,' it should help positioning and
holding a gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the
T-Bird's manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but
many manuals say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive,
if at all; I use 3M 'yellow snot' to glue valve cover gaskets to the
cover, then run a thin bead of blue on the engine side. Side note: the
advantage of the F-a-G is that it's tacky, and isn't likely to have
chunks break off and plug important--read: oil--passageways. There was a
guy on the web who went into a detailed analysis of this risk, but I
believe if you use it judiciously, and sparingly, it's OK. I have a
silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8, but haven't been adventurous
enough to try it.
Steven, I'd recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless, of
course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them in this
lifetime. I'd use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G; in my
experience it's harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than the covers
(as long as they're straight), but copper washers with silicone works
reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that has a rubber
insert--can't recall the name right now--that should work well (if you
can find them).
* I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
THAT again." If only that was true.
Bob
On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
> When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff"
> and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go
> around the holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the
> threads. Also, make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are
> different depths in the receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but
> then I had to move a few around to get them to go in the correct amount.
> Â Â Â I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will
> be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the
> information. Best of luck!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 on the way to recovery.
>
> On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire
>> month. Woohoo. Now comes the part where I button up this side of
>> the engine. Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?Â
>> What should I use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it? How
>> about the angle drive? Seal that or just crank it down OK? Once this
>> engine is together I would like to not have to take it apart again
>> for leaks.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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Right up there with 'which oil to use.'<br>
<br>
I've experimented with many of the modern sealants. I'd be careful
with Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with
no gasket on my BJ8's oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried
to remove it I hurt my right elbow sawing the pan off with a
serrated kitchen knife (that was a couple years ago, and the elbow
is still sore). When I told my mechanic about this, he said: "Well,
you weren't supposed to remove the pan," but, shit happens. There
are two types of RS, black and grey, and supposedly the grey is for
import cars (but damned if I know the difference). There are photos
and videos on the internets of people who used RS on, for instance,
SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and were unable to remove
the manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine by the manifold
(the RS held).<br>
<br>
Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around
sealant. It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it
easy(er) to remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on
my gearbox/OD rebuild, and they're sealed nicely, except for the
critical OD body to tailcone--'annulus housing?'--surface, which is
not supposed to have a gasket (unless it's accounted-for in setting
the depth of the annulus gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone
'Adhesive Sealant' there and, so far, no leaks. I just used the same
stuff on the thermostat housing and water pump on my '55
T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work well. Note if the
label says 'adhesive,' it should help positioning and holding a
gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the T-Bird's
manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but many
manuals say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive, if
at all; I use 3M 'yellow snot' to glue valve cover gaskets to the
cover, then run a thin bead of blue on the engine side. Side note:
the advantage of the F-a-G is that it's tacky, and isn't likely to
have chunks break off and plug important--read: oil--passageways.
There was a guy on the web who went into a detailed analysis of this
risk, but I believe if you use it judiciously, and sparingly, it's
OK. I have a silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8, but haven't
been adventurous enough to try it.<br>
<br>
Steven, I'd recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless,
of course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them
in this lifetime. I'd use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G;
in my experience it's harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than
the covers (as long as they're straight), but copper washers with
silicone works reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that
has a rubber insert--can't recall the name right now--that should
work well (if you can find them).<br>
<br>
* I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to
do THAT again." If only that was true.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:4bf8d2fe-48da-48d2-b379-15c42713e701@me.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div>When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The
Right Stuff" and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover,
making sure to go around the holes for the bolts with a touch of
red lock tite on the threads. Also, make sure you pre-install
every bolt as they are different depths in the receiving holes.
I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few around to
get them to go in the correct amount. </div>
<div>Â Â Â I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the
engine will be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed
with the information. Best of luck! </div>
<div>Steven Kingsbury</div>
<div>BN1 on the way to recovery.</div>
<div><br>
On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net";><rrengineer.mike@att.net></a>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div class="msg-quote">Finally got the Denis Welch tappets
today after almost an entire month. Woohoo. Now comes the
part where I button up this side of the engine. Where are
the most leaks on this side of the engine? What should I
use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it? How
about the angle drive? Seal that or just crank it down OK?Â
Once this engine is together I would like to not have to
take it apart again for leaks.
<div id="yMail_cursorElementTracker_1590898312612">Mike
MacLean
<div class="yahoo-compose-assist-image-card
ymail-android-inline-img-container ymail-card"><br>
</div>
<br>
<br>
<div id="yMail_cursorElementTracker_1590898262089"><br>
<div id="ymail_android_signature"><a
id="ymail_android_signature_link"
href="https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature";
data-mce-href="https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature";
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on Android</a></div>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
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