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--0000000000001bb37405c0c87f21
Bob
I suggest that you look for a fluid leak. I had one from a relatively new
wheel cylinder where there was a leak where the pipe bolted in. I suspect
that it was a flaw in the original material. As the leak was inside a drum
I did not see it originally.
Another possibility is that the master cylinder piston is no coming back
enough. It is important to adjust so there is about 5/8" pedal slack. If
there is no slack this can cause problems but this is usually that the
brakes come on by themselves and get worse as the shoes warm up.
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 at 02:45, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> (non) progress report:
>
> Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF flex
> line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's suggestion and,
> Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't expelled a bubble,
> like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on my pressure bleeding
> rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my
> BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage
> of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the
> 'block,' about 5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled
> into a covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant
> all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under
> the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to
> AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's
> underside, put on the new wheels and tires and hop in ... brake pedal goes
> to the floor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple
> times I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the
> new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then
> parked it.
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the
> 'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I was so
> beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8, but the BN2 has
> generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can explain why I can get a
> good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft from just sitting. Good thing I
> love these cars.
>
> Bob
>
> On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
> The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is
> that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little
> extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug
> when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and
> use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air
> out of the bleeder.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem
>
> Listers,
>
> I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the
> wall. Here's what I've done:
>
> - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels
> - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2
> front wheels)
> - new master cylinder
>
> I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled
> as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple
> times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of
> time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight
> pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be
> the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and
> bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's
> finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and
> old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm
> not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit
> with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after
> some time.
>
> Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div><br></div><div><br></div>Bob<div><br></div><div>I sug=
gest=C2=A0that you look for a fluid leak. I had one from a relatively new w=
heel cylinder where there was a leak where the pipe bolted in. I suspect th=
at it was a flaw in the original material. As the leak was inside a drum I =
did not see it originally.</div><div><br></div><div>Another possibility=C2=
=A0is that the master cylinder piston is no coming back enough. It is impor=
tant to adjust so there is about 5/8" pedal slack. If there is no slac=
k this can cause problems but this is usually that the brakes come on by th=
emselves=C2=A0and get worse as the shoes warm up.</div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 =
at 02:45, Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@=
comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
(non) progress report:<br>
<br>
Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF
flex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael'=
s
suggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I
hadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the
pressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again.
Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the
garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and
take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' a=
bout
5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a
covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant
all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the gasket
under the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a leak,
so a call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8 flat-bedded
home I washed the 100's underside, put on the new wheels and tires
and hop in ... brake pedal goes to the floor! Since I could get some
brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple times I took a chance on a
short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the new wheels and
tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake' detected--then par=
ked
it.<br>
<br>
Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the
'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EO=
D I
was so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8,
but the BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can
explain why I can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft
from just sitting. Good thing I love these cars.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div>On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
=20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and
100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system
so it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You
probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel
cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various
techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air
out of the bleeder.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
BN1 #554</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-4004999982218764131divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><fo=
nt style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000">=
<b>From:</b>
Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf of
Bob Spidell via Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"=
target=3D"_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; targ=
et=3D"_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt">
<div>Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving
(heh) me up the <br>
wall. Here's what I've done:<br>
<br>
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of
4 in the 2 <br>
front wheels)<br>
- new master cylinder<br>
<br>
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I jus=
t
pressure bled <br>
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for
decades and a couple <br>
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then,
after a period of <br>
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only
slight <br>
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it
could only be <br>
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after
installing it and <br>
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts o=
f
Castrol's <br>
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried
vacuum bleeding and <br>
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for=
all
methods. I'm <br>
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will
pump up a bit <br>
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the
floor after <br>
some time.<br>
<br>
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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