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Rust removal...

To: "land-speed@autox.team.net" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Subject: Rust removal...
From: Robert Jepson <robere@xensei.com>
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 14:38:08 +0000
List,
    Years ago I was at a Redi-Strip franchise and watched a car body 
going in a tank. When it finally settled in I saw a spark where it made 
electrical contact. I asked "What are you doing, plating the rust off?" 
The propriator mumbled some gibberish, which told me I was on to 
something pretty simple, and I found out later just how simple it was...
I finally got around to making up a de-rusting apparatus. It works 
great, and little by little the rusty artifacts around here are turning 
into good looking satin grey parts. It's especially rewarding to treat a 
hard to sand part like a steel wheel.
Plating shops pickle (HCl) rust off (it's fast). This can introduce 
small Hydrogen molecules into the matrix of the steel, which over time 
travel and can introduce structural flaws and subsequent failure 
(Hydrogen embrittlement). Most, but not all, plating processes can do 
the same thing. An electric rust removal technique with subsequent 
painting or, say, electroless nickel plating, should not introduce free 
Hydrogen nor introduce a hazard in a tempered, stressed steel part.
Also, you may be aware that a plated / got rusty/ got re-plated part 
doesn't last long without going rusty again. That's because free Oxygen 
gets introduced into the part when the initial rusting takes place, and 
that oxygen in the part will eventually react and produce rust again. 
This electric de-rusting process supposedly drives off the free oxygen 
as well...
I'm also pretty sure the mild alkali solution with rust is good for 
making grass green here in acid-rich soil New England; somebody told me 
once that the Chem-Lawn guys put iron in their juice as it makes grass 
greener.
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html
Remember, if it's hard, it's wrong!              Bob Jepson in Boston

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