Yes, you've put your finger on something that can really help. An air/oil
separator can save bearings! A good dry-sump tank has its oil return lines
plumbed in at an angle so that the oil swirls around the inside of the top
of the tank; bubbles of air are broken up and separated from the oil. Check
out a Peterson oil tank to see how it's done.
Of course, many of the advantages of a dry-siump system are negated if one's
wet-sump pan is VERY deep. If the pan is deep enough, the crank is far
enough above the oil level that it doesn't churn the oil into a froth. An
engine usually is mounted low in a car so going to a very deep pan isn't
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
From: Bryan Savage [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 10:54 PM
To: Albaugh, Neil
Subject: Re: Dry Sump stuff
I guess I missed it. I didn't see anyone mention what I see as a big
of dry sump. A good dry sump SYSTEM should minimize aeration of the oil.
After a 30 second 8,000 RPM oil system test run, the Mobil1 in my
Kawasaki looked like it had been in a blender. (I had a clear sight
tube on the crank case & oil pan) I see dry sump and crank case evacuation
as the best way to get as much air out of the oil as possible.
NOTE: I do not have personal first hand experience with this so I may
be completely full of it.
Albaugh, Neil wrote:
>I'll agree with everything that Keith said. In addition to those
>I have to go to a dry sump in my car because of the extra ground clearance
>it gives-- no big sump in the pan hanging down below the engine. I have to
>operate my Porsche G-50 transaxle upside down to lower the crank centerline
>but that puts the engine too low for a wet sump pan.
>Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to email@example.com or try
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/land-speed
/// what is needed. It isn't that difficult, folks.