On Tue, 16 Jan 1996 RNafie@aol.com wrote:
> I have a late 1979 MGB-LE with a small oil leak at the extreme front edge of
> the oil pan (sump). I have tightened all the flange bolts I can reach with a
> socket wrench. Does anyone know a way to tighten the front flange bolts
> without tilting the engine with a hoist? I'd really rather not move the
> engine just to tighten three bolts. Thanks.
If it's like the earlier engines, you just need to unfasten the engine
mounts and jack the engine up. Jack it by the bottom of the transmission
bell housing, not the oil pan! Make sure you are not supporting the
weight of the car (jack it up just far enough, right BEFORE the car starts
rising with the engine). A little weight won't hurt but don't unload the
suspension too much.
It's the only way to get a socket in there. A "spanner" from the side
usually has problem with intereference from the outer lip of the oil pan.
Don't forget the ones in the front corners, too.
I think the engine mounts changed with the rubber bumper Bs so this might
not be quite as easy with them, for appropriate values of "easy". I have
no experience with the rubber bumper models.
Unless the bolts weren't tightened evenly the last time, I would suspect
the timing chain cover versus the oil pan in your leak. That's where I
have seen my problems.
I have put Blue Goo (RTV, I think) on all gaskets and have had NO leaks
since the rebuild... except the lifter cover with the crankcase breather
tube and out through the (improperly) vented oil cap. The timing chain
cover, oil pan, and rear plate are holdup well <knock knock on a Triumph
The tech inspecter at local autocrosses says "Oh, OK, that's an MG
engine, it has oil leaks" when he sees the goop from over-filling the
carburetors with damper fluid and the slight misting from the oil cap.
John M. Trindle | firstname.lastname@example.org | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
Home Page: http://www.widomaker.com/~trindle
"Gerrold's Fundamental Truth:
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