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Powdercoating

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Powdercoating
From: obertro@macatawa.org (robert clark)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 15:03:15 +0100
Have read the last two days of discussion.  I powdercoat some of my
products on a frequent basis (I make the British Wheel Wrench and other
stuff) and so know a bit about it.
First, you must take powdercoater a clean bare metal part.
Part is hung on the line and enters iron phosphate bath at about 140
degrees f to clean/prep part.
Then goes through two rinses (water) and finally the dry-off oven (iron
phosphate prevents flash rusting).
Now into the paint booth where the powder is electrostatically applied.
This is handy for "painting around a corner" or otherwise difficult
geometry.  Substrate (your part) will reach between 350 and 450 degrees f.
Then out of booth to cool and derack.
Note that there are both epoxy and polyesther coatings available.  both are
tough and able to flex (for coil spring inquiry...) but epoxy should not be
used for an outdoor (automotive) application as it is not uv tolerant.  it
will become brittle and surface will chalk.  be SURE you are getting
polyesther.
hope this helps.
Robert Clark
Clark & Clark Specialty Products, Inc.
60 A
65 B
59 and 60 A's for sale, rough but cheap.



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