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BOUNCE mgs: Non-member submission from [John Bartholomew <jdb70@juts.ccc

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Subject: BOUNCE mgs: Non-member submission from [John Bartholomew <>]
From: Mark J Bradakis <mjb>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:03:21 -0700 (MST)
     Date: Wed, 11 Dec 96 08:04 PST
     From: John Bartholomew <>
     Subject: Re: Welding Equipment - SPOT WELD

James F. Porco writes:-
Subject: Re: Welding Equipment

>I do have a question for the experts out there, has any one used/rented a
>spot welder as a first step to replacing the sills and floor?  I'm thinking
>hat a two step process (first spot weld then flux core weld) may prove to
>be more sound for a novice.  Any thoughts?


J>im Porco
>1971 B-GT

   I have done quite a bit of welding of sheet metal in my 76B restoration.
I replaced the floors, removed the original panels first then "spot welded"
the new ones in place with my MIG welder.  Here is how I did it.
After removing the old panels and cleaning up the surfaces that would mate
with the new panel, I temporarily fixed the new floor in place with about 4
sheet metal screws. From beneath the car I used a marker to trace the
outlines of all the floor braces that mate to the new panel. I removed the
sheet metal screws and then the panel, turned it over so I could see the
outlines I had just marked. Now with a    sheet metal punch I punched 1/8
inch holes around the edges about 6 to 8 inches apart and centered the hole
so that it would be mid way across the floor braces.  The areas that cannot
be reached with the punch I drilled 1/8 inch holes, again making sure the
hole was centered on the floor braces. I removed all burrs so that the
panel, when in place, would sit flush onto the floor supports. Now I put the
panel back in and transferred the hole locations to the under floor frame.
Then I made double sure those areas were stripped clear to bare metal,
essential for a good weld. I then proceeded to weld through the hole in the
new panel and fill the hole making sure I catch the new panel with the weld.
Some of the "spot" welds needed a little grinding after but generally I was
really pleased with the end result. I was also able to add the seat rail
fixing nuts in a more sturdy way than the original fittings, which seem to
break away due to metal fatigue. Here I welded nuts to some 1/8 inch plate
and spot welded the plates the same way. The only tricky step was ensuring
the panel was flush before welding, as the sheet metal tends to warp as it
heats up.  I used a hydraulic ram under the cross brace at the center
console and some steel angle on the floor plate. Working in the foot well of
a B takes a little patience and care. I rigged up a small fan to blow into
the foot well so as to purge those fumes while I worked.. Safety first! You
should be able to adapt this process for the sill replacement. 
Good luck. John Bartholomew. 
E-mail     John Bartholomew Amdahl San Jose CA.
408-746-6361 07:00-16:00 PST.     **  USUAL DISCAILMERS APPLY  **
 1969 MGBGT; 1974 MGB; 1976 MGB-RESTORED; 1979 MGB; 1972 MGB daily driver.

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