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Re: Floor and sill replacement

To: Peter Schauss x 2014 <>
Subject: Re: Floor and sill replacement
From: "S. L. Hower" <>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 12:25:50 -0500 (EST)
On Fri, 13 Dec 1996, Peter Schauss x 2014 wrote:

> I am in the process of replacing the left side floor and sills on my
> MGB and I have some questions about how the floor goes in relative to the
> other pieces.  
> When I cut the old floor out, should I cut right up to the transmission
> tunnel and then weld the up turned edge of the new floor to the side
> of the tunnel, or should I leave an inch or so of the old floor 
> sticking out along the edge of the tunnel and set the new floor on top of 

  I did this job on my B last year.  The tunnel has a thick flange that
  overlaps the floor pan by about an inch and a half.  First off, remove
  *all* of the old floor pan.  It will be difficult to get the new floor
  to lay flat with remnants of old pan still attached to the tunnel flange.
  The seat might sit a little wonky if the floor pan isnt nice and flat. 

  I welded the tunnel side flange of the new floor pan to the tunnel
  itself, hammering it tightly against the curvature of the tunnel as
  I went.  I removed the wide flange on the sill side of the floor (and
  about 1/2 inch wide strip of the floor itself).  Without this flange,
  the floor lays nicely on top of the new castle rail and right next to
  the inner sill lip (I left a gap of about an 1/8 of an inch or so). 

  I tacked these in position, then welded inch long beads along 
  this seam (labeled (w) below) skipping an inch of so.  I also
  traced the outline of the T from underneath the floor, drilled 1/4
  inch holes through the pan every 3 inches and welded the holes shut
  from the top.  Seal all of the seams- top and bottom with GE seam 
  sealer, unless you want to admire what remains of your handiwork
  again in a few years.

   WARNING - Cheesy ascii art follows:

   (imagine yourself as the differential looking into the tranny) 

           |___                /   \                ___|
               |    (pan)     /     \    (pan)     |     (inner
     (inner    |(w)         //       \\         (w)|      sill)      
      sill)    -- ---------//         \\--------- --    
               ------                         ------ 
              (castle                        (castle
                rail)                          rail)

   It is important to tack/screw/rivet the whole business together 
   before you start the final welding.   The floor is thin and flimsy
   (esp w/o the sill side flange) and tends to warp and tincan easily.
   Oh yeah, DONT forget to weld captive nuts to the underside of the 
   floor BEFORE you weld it down over the crossmember.  

   Good luck and let us know how you make out...


   Scott Hower  -->      
   Air Products & Chemicals, Inc.        'Its better to be silent and
   7201 Hamilton Blvd Trexlertown, PA     thought a fool than speak and 
   (610) 481-2646                         remove all doubt' --A. Lincoln 

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