In a message dated 97-03-26 15:01:46 EST, Re: W. R. Gibbons wrote:
<<On Tue, 25 Mar 1997 DANMAS@aol.com wrote:
<< Evidently, you have a coil that is designed to operate on 12 volts, with
no
> ballast, therefore, no need for switching. I am not nearly as familiar
with
> Of course, another possibility is that the coil parameters are not as
> critical as we think, and as long as every thing else is ok, it doesn't
> matter?
> Dan Masters
> Alcoa, TN
>
I think Vince's point is that the white wire should not be live when the
ignition switch is in the run position. A coil designed to run with a
ballast resistor will run on 12 volts, but it's life will be reduced.
However, the wiring should supply 12 volts to the coil through the
unballasted wire only when the starter is operating. When the key is
released from the start position and moves to the run position, the wire
supplying unballasted current should no longer be live; instead current
should be supplied through the ballast. If you can remove the ballast
wire and the car keeps running, somebody has messed with the wires.
The typical indication of a bad ballast resistor is that the car starts
with the starter engaged, then dies when the switch moves to the run
position.
>>
I agree with you completely, But my position was that a) some one had
modified the car for a non-ballast coil, or, b) since he has been running the
car without problems, the coils are more robust than we think.
As a test, I recently connected a coil directly to a battery charger and left
it connected for 1 1/2 hours. At the end of that time, the coil was warm but
not hot, and still functional. As the test was for another purpose, I do not
recall if it was a ballast or none ballast coil.
Still, the bottom line is - Whichever coil you use, use or don't use a
ballast resister, as required. It might be neccessary to add a resister, or
to remove one, along with the appropriate wiring changes.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
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