Aron Travis wrote about six volt Chrysler alternators and Mini Mania's rib
case A series gearboxes:
1) As far as I know, the last six volt American cars were built in 1955 and
the first alternators came out in 1963 so if there is any truth to the
rumor it would be a specialty item and not generally available. I could be
wrong, but . . . . . . . .
2) The part of the Ribcase trans that causes it to "pop out of second" is
the second gear synchronizer that will do this when severly worn. Incorrect
assembly will also cause the same problem. One shouldn't have ANY parts
left over after the trans is assembled! It usually is a thrust washer or
two that don't make it back in and these can cause the same symptom. If
it's put together right with a good synchro any ribcase shouldn't pop out
of second.
I've have a Mini Mania rebuilt ribcase in my Minor pickup since 1987 and
it's still going strong! It was a "factory" Silver Seal" unit that was made
from "select used gears" and new cluster gear, shafts. bearings and
synchros. Might have also had a new first speedwheel. Anyhoo, it was a bit
noisey when first installed because of the differently worn gear tooth
faces, but after a few months they wore in together and I've had one sweet
shifter since. I tried some Slick 50 trans additive in the late eighties
but am not sure if this did any good but it didn't seem to do any harm.
Also, after the Dri-Wash and snake oil thread, I recieved this email from
an old buddy in Sausalito, who has had Minor overheating problems with his
woodie ever since he had a Datsun 1500/5speed installed in it. The radiator
is recored and the engine had been boiled out, The original fan was
replaced with an aftermarket electric unit. The car ran fine until faced
with bumper to bumper Golden Gate Bridge traffic or long uphill pulls, then
it would heat up. Even the electric fan on full didn't always help. Here
is his story . . . . . . .
From: "Robert L. Sachs" <rsachs@itsa.ucsf.edu>
Subject: engine cooling
Every time I get in the car, I am amazed again. This stuff is really
magic. It really seems to work. The Water Wetter from Red Line did
absolutely nothing. I used it for two summer seasons, and it was worse
than nothing, because it gave a false sense of security.
This product is made by Pro-Blend Chemical Company, Motor Sports
Products, Division, Industrial Lubricants. They are Post Office Box 5854,
Winston-Salem, NC 27113. Phone 910/723-9403 or 800/331-9520, FAX
910/761-0388, Technical 910/723-9404 (I spoke with "Bud").
There are two products. First is '40 Below' Part No. 4032, or 'Stops
Overheating' Part No. 4033 (they are both the same thing in different
packaging). Procedure: drain and flush cooling system, premix 1 quart of
product with 1/2 gallon of distilled water in a clean bucket, add 1 quart
of antifreeze (ethylene glycol, not propylene glycol, if available), add 8
ounces of anti-rust product (water pump lubricant with rust preventer), and
pour into radiator, run engine and top up with distilled water. Second,
change oil and add 8 ounces of 'Engine Racing Concentrate' Part No. 8080
(good for about 10,000 miles or every third oil change) to engine oil. I
think the cooling system treatment should be repeated every spring, the oil
treatment as required.
It works! After years of sweating the temperature, I now relax. I only
resort to using the electric fan in extreme conditions. The temperature in
most normal circumstances is steady at 180 and does not vary. On very hot
days (80 and above) it gets to about 190. Add trafic and a long pull
uphill, and it goes a little higher, but comes right down with the electric
fan.
By the way, Moss does not have a traditional metal GB badge. They only
have a vinyl
stick-on. The one I am looking for is oval, plastic, black and white, has
a sort of frame, is raised about 1/2 inch and fastens with 2 screws. Keep
in touch. - - RLS
Can anyone out there help Bob with his GB badge quest and think about the
overheating cure. See you on the Funway! - Rick Feibusch
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