At 10:02 AM 5/27/98 -0500, Bill Eastman wrote:
>..... one exhaust manifold stud must have been broken off. It was drilled
out and replaced with a through bolt. ..... Has anyone ever used one of
those solid threaded inserts for this application? .....
I happen to like helicoils, and I find them quite easy to use. Prior to
using the custom tap that comes with the repair kit, the hole has to be
about the same diameter as the major diameter of the bolt or stud. In the
case of a stripped thread, this is generally the case by default, so you
just run the tap into the existing hole. If the hole has already been
drilled out to a clearance size to accept a through bolt, you're out of
lock with a helicoil.
I have an a few occasions successfully welded up a broken ear at the bottom
end of an exhaust manifold. This subject has been around before, so anyone
wanting the instructions should e-mail me privately.
>The A's exhaust pipe was attached using bolts instead of studs and nuts.
I plan on using studs with brass nuts on reassembly. Any thoughts?
Yes. I have tried for a few years using brass nuts and double nutting
these studs. The brass nuts _always_ manage to work loose and fall off.
And attempting to tighten them too much just strips out the threads. I
finally gave up and bought a handfull of stainless steel hex nuts (3/8-24
UNF), and no more problems.
>Last question for the day. My tach cable is frozen in the drive. Any
thoughts about how to get it out? .....
Have you tried dyn-o-mite? This is one serious problem, with the cable
stuck in a blind hole. If you can't pull it out with pliers, you're
probably in for buying a new shaft and pinion gear. In my case, I bought a
complete used tach drive assemble for less money.
1958 MGA with an attitude