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Update Carbs, Suspension & Wheel - long!!

To: "MG Mailing List (E-mail)" <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Update Carbs, Suspension & Wheel - long!!
From: "Neil Cotty" <neilc@tradesrv.com.au>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:32:12 +1000
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Hi all,

Had a reasonably eventful weekend, went a took a whole bunch of photo's of
three beautiful RV8's (good grief they sound gorgeous!!!) at the MG Centre
of Sydney who I'm doing a website for. Y'all have to take a look when it's
finished but down to business! <G> My GT!

I tinkered with a couple of things on my BGT over the weekend and a couple
of you out there asked for update so here it is. Excuse my stupidity. <G>
I'm a programmer not a mechanic! <G> But I'm learning lots thanks to this
list! :)

Well after I'd disassembled my carbs from a couple of weeks ago, cleaned
them with Carb cleaner etc I noticed much better acceleration, tickover etc
but I was experiencing a certain hesitancy when mashing my right foot <G>
Anyway I was using a 'light oil' in the Piston chambers but I replaced this
with oil from the MG Centre (I'm sorry I don't know what SAE it is - doesn't
say) and now that problem has gone. I noticed my Haynes manual said Engine
Oil whereas my Bently one said Light Oil (and so did a couple of other
publications - how indistinct is that!). I also fitted new aircleaners and
the car is running very very well. Much better than I thought possible. :)

Now to my Rear suspension problem where the car was bouncing up and down.
Well this has subsided somewhat and I'm left wondering what caused it. The
shocks were new so perhaps they needed some time to settle. But more likely
was what the guys at the MG Centre found. The front shocks are leaking after
only a few hundred miles - I stupidly didn't check this as I assumed they
were ok (bought them from a different supplier). Oh well. I think the front
shocks leaking and the rear shocks newness has combined to create this
problem. I intend to get the front wheels off, tighten everything up (as I
have a few clonks!) and see if I can refill these front shocks and see whats
causing the leakage. Don't know if I can do this on the car or not (?).

I have also tracked down one of my clonks to Wheel bearings. I did most of
the work on the front myself but I went o/s for a while and my mechanic
refitted the wheel bearings. There appears to be too much free play. I
presume there shouldn't be enough free play to make the wheels clonk? (it is
slight) I first thought there was a clonk coming from the s/rack as if you
turned the s/wheel a fraction (but not really enough to move the wheels) you
would hear a small clonk. The left is worse than the right. I'm going to
read all the articles I can find on this and get myself the necessary shims
etc. Any advice here welcome, the mechanic who initially worked on them had
them so loose the whole wheel was moving around! Good grief! I had them do
it again but it seems they still aren't right.

And finally (phew!) my engine although running smooth has always had a rough
period from around 1900rpm to 2800rpm (since we've owned it). It sounds like
tappets/valve thrash but I don't know enough about this stuff yet. But
suffice to say it sounds decidedly like there isn't enough lubrication
during this period even though my Oil pressure is reasonable - 55psi (on
synthetics). The tappets have been adjusted to factory specs. It's a pity as
the motor runs luv-er-ly below and above this rev range. Compression is good
across the cylinders, within 5% of each other.

Well enough of me! <G>

ttyl,
Neil.
--
Neil Cotty - Sydney, Australia
1970 MG B GT / 1959 MG A 1600 Mk1

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