....let's try this once again folks....
THE SPITFIRE DOES NOT HAVE AN OIL PRESSURE GAUGE (stock anyway)
We're talking about the
OIL PRESSURE IDIOT LIGHT AND LOW PRESSURE INDICATOR
(No offense intended Jack, you simply re-iterated the question.)
The Spitfire LOW OIL PRESSURE SWITCH is set to around 4 psi.
Physically the threads on the body of the switch can be interchanged
with the MGB's LOW OIL PRESSURE SWITCH.
This exchange has nothing at all to do with the Oil Pressure GAUGE
in the B's.
To the best of knowledge (with a few exceptions) ALL of the B's mechanical oil
pressure guages are fed from a bulkhead mounted fitting, fed
by a flexible pipe coming up from the lower rear side of the block.
ON THE BULKHEAD there is a union that feeds the stiff hollow metal tube that
feeds oil up to the pressure gauge in the B. AT THAT BULKHEAD UNION
is also mounted a PRESSURE SWITCH for the OIL PRESSURE IDIOT LIGHT.
By exchanging out the SINGLE TERMINAL MBG PRESSURE SWITCH
for the Spitfire THREE TERMINAL PRESSURE SWITCH, you can use the
'floating' switch to turn off the fuel pump or V+ to the ignition coil unless
pressure is present.
1973 BGT - Daily Driver
1975 Spitfire -in Cherry Shape
1980 Spitfire w/ O/D - in re-hab
From: Feldman, Jack (Jack) <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: email@example.com <firstname.lastname@example.org>; 'wizardz' <email@example.com>
Cc: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>
Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: RE: Oil filters
Even if the threads are the same, the pressure switch has to match the oil
pressure gauge. I'm not sure about oil pressure, but I have been told that
one of the reasons Bs seem to overheat is that the sender and the gauge are
mismatched. I'm not sure of the match being the problem, but the C seemed to
peg on the H when driving in hot weather. Definitely when on the road. I
swapped it for a mechanical one which was calibrated in degrees Fahrenheit,
and the perception of an overheating problem went away. Do you know for sure
they are interchangeable? If not, I'll ask some of the folks that are more
knowledgeable than I am.
Thanks for the response.
> From: wizardz[SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
> Reply To: wizardz
> Sent: Monday, June 07, 1999 10:05 AM
> To: Feldman, Jack (Jack); email@example.com
> Cc: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Subject: Re: Oil filters
> Oh but you can!
> the switch threads are the same!
> another great benefit.... wire the floating switch
> into the electric fuel pump
> if in an accident... no pressure= no running fuel pump!
> Paul Tegler
> 1973 BGT - Daily Driver
> 1975 Spitfire
> 1980 Spitfire w/ O/D
> email: email@example.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Feldman, Jack (Jack) <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> To: 'email@example.com' <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Cc: 'email@example.com' <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 10:24 AM
> Subject: RE: Oil filters
> Nice idea in the Spitfire, too bad we can't do it on our Bs.
> I have found that the spin on filters with the anti drain back valve are
> better than the original canister and felt element type. I got an adapter
> for both the C and the Healey 3000, and the result was almost instant oil
> pressure with the anti drain spin on versus about 5 or more seconds with
> pressure for the canister. The Healey original filter was not inverted but
> on its side. I wouldn't run a good engine with the old style filter.
> Your use of the Delco filter seems right on. There is a study of filters
> the net, and the conclusion is that the Delco PF2 is the most cost
> effective. The Wix, which is also the NAPA Gold, is the best, but the two
> dollar price difference gave the Delco the nod. Note that the PF2 is
> than the standard MG filter. The longer type was recommended to me
> it has more filtering power.
> You can see the study at either of the following URLs:
> http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilters.html is a summary of the
> http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html tells of how he got