I drilled mine out, too. The easiest sounding solution I found (after, of
course) is to unscrew one of the backup lights and use a fish wire to reach
in and open the lock. Other people talk of drilling a hole through the rear
bulkhead to pass the wire through, and some have been successful by pushing
the area near the license plate as they try to open the latch (which won't
help if the pivot piece has fallen off).
The electric solenoid trunk release I got from JC Whitney wouldn't work, as
the latch would need to be on the car rather than on the trunk lid to work
right. I also picked up a remote trunk release cable, but I never got
around to installing it.
--Steve (1980 MGB)
-----Original Message-----
From: Ruggiero, Larry Maj (Robins AFB)
[mailto:Larry.Ruggiero@afrc.af.mil]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 3:41 PM
To: mgs List
Subject: 'B Trunk Locks
Listers: is it me, or has anyone else had trouble fitting replacement MGB
trunk locks? Seems like the little cam swivel fitting actuated by the push
button doesn't move the catch arm enough to unlatch the trunk lid, despite
its adjustability. Of course, when this occurs after you've permanently
secured the handle assembly into the lid with the big circular nut, it's big
drill time to drill out the lock assembly! I've gone through 2 replacements
like this, which originally happened after the retaining bolt for the
aforementioned cam swivel fitting backs off and falls into the trunk (yeah,
I know, the next one will see loctite...) FWIW, the replacements have been
Rover items...TIA!
Larry Ruggiero
'72 B (scotch tape does a nice job of keeping rain outta the hole, but looks
tacky)
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