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Re: General electric question (no not GE)

Subject: Re: General electric question (no not GE)
Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2000 14:19:59 EDT
In a message dated 04/23/2000 6:20:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, writes:

> 1) no electronic ignition I think.  But first, what means electronic
>  ignition (told you I'm a novice with these things...)... The distributor
>  has points.
Electronic ignition means that you DON'T have points, so if you have points 
NO electronic ignition

>  2) I lost spark to the plugs when I changed the coil to a new Lucas sports
>  coil. When I put the old coil back in, spark was still lost. Wires to
>  the negative goes to the tach; a 1000 ohm resistor is
>  connected to the + which does go to the distributor. Yes, I might have
>  mixed up the wires but I hear the starting motor turn and turn and ...
>  (which is a good sign?) 

Needless to say you put the coils in wrong. (Ed is  off today, I'm filling 
in:-)  Unless of course you believe that  A) the new coil was bad and B) the 
old coil choose the exact moment that you unbolted it to die.  The hint here 
is that the negative side of the coil goes to the distributor (the points 
ground the coil hence the negative side goes to the distributor).  I don't 
recall what year your car is but on all the wiring diagrams that I looked at 
this wire is White/Black.  The ignition system is independent of the starter 
motor circuit, so no matter what you did to the coil the starter had better 
turn over or you are in deeper than you think.
>  3) Reading voltage across the coil, no matter how long I charge the
>  battery, it never goes over 10 V.

Check again with the points held open
>  4) I don't think I'm getting spark to the distributor because the wire
>  from the coil to the distributor doesn't spark across the block when I
>  tried that. 

>From which wire? Are you talking about the LT. lead (small wire from coil to 
SIDE of distributor) or the HT lead [big fat wire] from coil leading to the 
cap?  With the cap off and the key on you should see a small spark from the 
points when you either turn over the engine or if you manually open the 
points with a screwdriver.  If you do not see this spark then either you have 
put the points in wrong or you have a problem further upstream (trace back 
toward coil and find out where the voltage went).

>  5) Here's an out and out question. What looks like a capacitor (a small
>  blue jobbie) is attached to the + end of the coil. Its ground appears to
>  be the chassis because it is only connected at one end. What is this?

Radio suppression.  I have a silly question, you did bolt the coil in didn't 
you? (circuit is grounded through mounting bracket)
>  6) And the piece de resistance (as I mentioned to Carl), the jet does 
>  not move when I turn the jet adjusting screw on one carb. I also do not
>  hear the squeal of what sounds like an o-ring as  I do with the other
>  carb whose jet moves what I assume properly. 

This is the same as complaining to the doctor that you have an ingrown toe 
nail on your left foot, when he has just told you that you have a compound 
fracture of the left leg and gangrene is setting in.  In other word first 
thing first.  Until you got spark messing with the carbs is just screwing 
around. (told you Ed was off)
Good luck

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