Your link just displayed a black page. However, I did manage to check the
two pictures. The first one is just a charcoal canister to absorb gas
fumes. The fitting at the bottom normally has a rubber hose that allows the
canister to vent (or release gas overflow) under the car. So this part is
not really relevant to your problem.
The second picture shows what looks like dual SU carbs. The part circled is
your choke cable. If the choke was engaged your fuel mixture would be too
rich and could account for your symptoms. However, once the car cooled
down, it would then run fine until it warmed up again.
Your problem could be fuel related. Or maybe its in the points and/or
timing. Either way, its something that would be best if you fixed it
yourself. You should purchase a good manual like the Haynes manual for
assistance. You could also post your location - maybe a lister is nearby
that could help show you the fundamentals of tuning the car.
To check your carbs, you can have someone pull the choke in and out.
Observe how it pulls the jet down and make sure that when the choke is
pushed in all the way, the jets go back up flush with the fuel mixture nuts
(at least this is how the HS4 carbs do it). The picture really looks like
HS4 carbs to me but I thought they only went up to 1972. Maybe a lister can
correct me on that - the picture in question is:
At 04:00 PM 7/19/2000 -0500, George Cahlik wrote:
>Let me introduce myself. My name is George, I am 21 and I've been
>wanthing an LBC ever since my father sold his triumph when I was 4. I am
>new to cars in general, but I've always wanted to learn mechanics and
>whatnot. It wasn't until now that I could afford a car and I figured if
>I were to get a car, I'm going to get a car that I actually want rather
>than out of convinience, there is some sort of romanticism to that.
>Well I finally got my hands on a '74 MG Midget, it's beautiful. Has
>50,000 original miles on it, pretty much everything on it is original,
>including interior, paint, and engine, and it was taken well care of by a
>sunday driver. I suppose this could be a good and bad thing.
>I anxiously awaited the arrival of my MG, and last Sunday I finally got
>it. It _ran_ perfect. I drove it easily (I wasn't going to let my dream
>die too quickly) and that evening I finally gave into pressure to teach my
>girlfriend how to drive a stick. The car, in the hands of someone
>accustomed to automatic transmissions, naturally stalled out the first
>couple of times. I also had a hard time teaching her how to shift from
>2nd to 3rd. So, generally, our ride was a little rough, but that was to
>be expected. After about 45 minutes of abuse, and a stall, I tried to
>start up the car, and it startd to run rough and backfired. Scared, I
>decided to quit the lesson and I had a horrible time trying to get home, I
>couldn't achieve the power to go above 40 mph.
>I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Yesterday I took a few pictures
>hoping someone could help me out. What I think happened (now keep in
>mind, I know NOTHING about mechanics aside from what I learned in physics
>classes in high school) is that the hose from the fuel filter came loose
>or broke and too much oxygen and not enough gas was getting to the engine,
>which caused it to backfire.
>I made a small webpage with my images of what I believe is the problem at
>I really hope someone can help me, I honestly can not afford a good import
>mechanic and I think this would be a good learning experience anyways.
>I would also like to know what is the proper amperage/voltage resistance
>for the fuses in the Midget. The car came with 25amp fuses (I forget the
>voltage), but the person who sold it to me gave me 30amp fuses. I know
>25 amps is safer, but what is sufficient?